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REYNOLDS HISTORICAL
GENEALOGY COLLECTION
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VOL.3.
''l'Lau^H?'Ce<z/??t' ccl'
%mi^0u .
A TOPOGRAPHICAL
HISTORY OF SURREY,^
EDWARD WEDLAKE BRAYLEY. F.S.A., &c.
REVISED AND EDITED
By EDWARD WALFORD, M.A.
FORMERLY SCHOLAR OF BALLIOL COLLEGE, OXFORD
AUTHOR OF THE " COUNTY FAMILIES," ETC.
WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS ON STEEL AND WOOD
V/3
VOL. IIL
LONDON
VIRTUE AND CO., Limited, 294, CITY ROAD
LONDON :
PRINTED BY VIRTUE AND CO., LIMITED.,
CITT ROAD.
1908517
CONTENTS OF VOL, III.
THE HUNDRED OF BRIXTON.
Camberwell —
Dulwich (^continued) 1
Manor of Hatcham 4
Clapham .27
Lambeth 41
Manor of Lambeth 42
The Aichiepiscopal Palace ... .44
Manor of Faukes-hall or Vaux-hall ... 88
VauxhaU Gardens 89
Vauxhall Bridge 96
Manor of Kennington 97
Claylands 103
Manor of Stockwell, or South Lamheth . . 105
The Crystal Palace 117
Waterloo Bridge 124
Hungerford and Lambeth Suspension Bridge . 126
Newington, or Newington Butts . . .132
Surrey Gardens 140
ROTHERHITHE 141
Thames Tunnel 146
Commercial Docks 150
Streatham 157
Manor of Tooting-Bec, or Tooting-Beck . . 158
Manor oi Leigham's Court 159
Manor of Balham 163
Barnes 165
Hammersmith Suspension Bridge . . . .170
»A0«
Battersea 171
Penge .180
Battersea Bridge . 180
Albert Suspension Bridge 180
Merton 181
Merton Priory 183
Mortlake 188
Putney 1^^
Roebampton 203
Tooting, or Lower Tooting 208
Wandsworth 211
Manor of Battersea and Wandsworth .212
Manor of Downe, or Downe-buys . .212
Manor of Dunsfold 213
Manor of Alfarthin.s 213
Wimbledon 220
HUNDRED OF WALLINGTON, OR CROYDON.
Croydon 229
Manor of Croydon 232
Manor of Waddon 234
Manor of Bunchesham, or Bensham . . .235
Manor of Croham 235
Manor of Haling 235
Manor of Norbury 236
Addiscombe 237
Addington 249
Chaldon 255
0
IV
CONTENTS.
TAOE
Manor of AVilley 256
Stansted 257
COULSDON 259
Whattington, or Waddon, in Coulsdon . . 259
Sandebstead 263
Purley ■ . . 265
East and West Purley 265
Selsdon 268
woodmansterne . . . . . . ■ 269
Beddington 274
Manor of Home-Beddington 274
Manor of Beddington-Huscarle ■ . . . . 275
Manor of Wallington 278
Manor of Bandon 279
Caeshalton ........ 291
Cheam 299
Manor of Eastrf^heam 300
Manor of West Cheam 301
Manor of Lower Clieam 301
MiTCHAM ......... 309
Manor of Biggin and Tarn worth . . .311
Manor of Eavensbury 311
moedon, or moeden 316
Sdtton . . 320
Benhilton 323
THE HUNDRED OF TANDRIDGE.
Bletchingley 324
Manor of Bletchingley 325
Manor of Garston, in Bletchingley . . .327
Cbowhuest 335
Manor of Newlands 337
Manor of Chellows ...... 338
GODSTONE 343
Manors of Hedge Court and Covelingley . 347
HoRNE 352
Manor of Bysshe Coxirt . . . . " . . 353
Harwardesley 354
LiMPSFIELD 357
Trevereux 359
LiNGFIELD 361
Manor of Starborough, alias PrLokham . . 363
Manor of Padinden 365
Manor of Blokesfield, or Shovelstrode . . . 366
Manor of Browns 367
Manor of Sheffield 367
GQdable 367
Dorman's Land 367
OSTED, OR OXTEAD 374
Manor of Oxted 374
Manor of Birstead, Biersted, or Bursted . . 375
Manor of Broadhams 375
Manor of Foyle . 375
Tandeidge 379
Manor of Tandridge Covirt 380
Manor of Northall, or Tandridge Priory . . 380
Tilliiigdon 380
Manor of Newlands 381
Priory of Tandridge 382
LIST OF ILLUSTEATIONS,
STEEL ENGRxiVINGS.
Vvjnctte.
i'lvntispicce.
AYESTillNSTEE BRIDGE IN THE DISTANCE To face 'fClfje
Madsoledm at Fbogmore
School for the Indigent Blind ....
Gateway of Lambeth Palace and Lambeth Church : Westminsteb Bridge in the Distance To face 'jHuje 47
The Guard Chamber, Lambeth Palace (il
St. Michael's Church, Stockwell 109
Barn-Elms 166
Lime Grove, Putney (1846) 202
Mount Clare, Roehampton 204
Dunspold Church and the School-house on Dunsfold Green 213
Hospital op the Holy Trinity, Croydon.— The Quadrangle 244
Selsdon House 269
Selsdon House (another View) 270
Beddington Park (now the Lambeth Female Orphan Asylum) 286
The Hall, Beddington House (1850) 288
Tbevereus, Limpsfield ■ . . 359
WOOD ENGRAVINGS.
Seal of the Free School, Camberwell .
St. George's National Schools, Camberwell
St. Matthew's Church, Brixton ....
Catacombs at Norwood Cemetery
Shield used iu the formation of tlie Thames Tunnel
Seals of Merton Priory 185
Croydon Church 229
Brass of Nicholas Carew, Beddington Church . . 283
Brass of a Knight of the Carew Family . . . 285
Mordon Church 319
A TOPOGRAPHICAL
HISTORY OF SURREY.
THE HUNDRED OF BRIXTON.
PARISH OF CAMBEEWELL.
Diilivich (^continued).
TN consequence of a desii'e on the part of the authorities of the College to provide
-*- a better class of instruction than that hitherto attainable for the rising generation in
Dulwich, a new school was erected in 1842, at a short distance north-west from the
College. The building is small, and remarkably plain, and over the entrance is the
inscription, ©fte (Stnmmar ^cf)ool of CGolJ's CGift QTollcgr, IBulfoiclb, surmounted by the AUeyn
arms. Since 1858 this building has been used as one of the class-rooms of the lower
school of the College.
As we have already stated,* by the Act of Parliament passed in 1857 AUeyn's foimda-
tion was completely reconstituted. To use the words of the author of " Old and New
London," " The government of the College is now vested in nineteen governors, of whom
eleven are nominated by the Court of Chancery, the rest being elected by the four
parishes to which special privileges were attached by the terms of the original foundation.
The officers of administration are a * Master of the College ' (whose office, however, is
no longer restricted to a person of the founder's name), a Chaplain, an Under Master of
the Upper School, a Master of the Lower School, a Eeceiver, and a Clerk, together with
such Assistant Masters, Professors, and Lecturers, as may be required to ensure thorough
efficiency to the educational department."
The revenue of the College, which at the time of the founder's death was £800 a year,
now, as we have already shown, amounts to more than £18,000. The suqilus revenue
* See " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 376.
VOL. III. B
2 HISTORY OF SURREY.
(after provision has been made for tlie maintenance of the fabric and of the chapel and
library) is divided into four portions, of which three are assigned to the educational,
and one to the eleemosynary branch. The educational foundation comprises two distinct
schools — the " upper school " and the " lower school." In the iipper school liberal
provision is made for the endowment of exhibitions, tenable either at one of the English
universities, or by students of any learned or scientific profession or of the fine arts.
Thii-ty-six scholarships of £20 a year each, tenable in the school, were likewise esta-
blished in 1870, under the authority of the Charity Commissioners.
The lower school is described as being for the instruction and benefit of the children
of the industrial and poorer classes resident in any of the parishes of St. Giles,
Camberwell; St. Botolph without Bishopsgate ; St. Saviour, Southwark; and St. Luke,
Middlesex. It is a separate school, and is entirely distinct in its conduct and arrange-
ments from the upper school. Provision is made for the establishment in the lower
school of scholarships and " gratuities " to be awarded to deserving boys, for the
purpose of advancing them in the world. The school is at present carried on in the old
buildings of God's Gift College.
The buildings of the upper school, now known as "Dulwieh College," are situated
about a quarter of a mile south of the old building, and were built from the designs of
Mr. Charles Barry, who in 1858 succeeded his father, Sir Charles Barry, as surveyor
of the College. The buildings are described in " Old and New London " as being in the
"Northern Italian style of the thirteenth century." The first stone was laid in
June, 1866, and the edifice was formally opened by the Prince of Wales in June, 1870.
The schools comprise three distinct blocks : viz. a central building, containing the
public and ofiicial rooms, the great hall, library, the lecture theatre, chemical and
physical laboratories, &c. ; and two wings, connected with the centre building by corridors
or cloisters, the south wing being appropriated to the senior section of the upper school,
with the residence of the master of the College, and the north wing to the junior section,
with the residence of the under-master of the upper school. The buildings are con-
structed of red brick, with terra-cotta ornamentation, the front of the centre building
being the most profusely ornamented : the decoration is carried entirely round the
building. For the most part the ornamentation is architectural, but a distinctive and
characteristic feature is a series of heads, in very high relief from concave shields, of
the principal poets, historians, orators, philosophers, &c., of Greece, Eome, Italy,
Germany, and England, the names of each being legibly inscribed in the hollow of the
shield. The cost of the new schools was about £100,000 : the building provides accommo-
datiou for GOO boys. The College stands in an area of 45 acres, of which about
30 acres have been appropriated to the schools and playground.
Since its reorganization in 1858, Dulwich College has started on a rapid career of
educational advancement ; and the extraordinary increase in the number of boys, and the
numerous honoui's obtained by them in almost every competition open to our public schools,
either at Oxford or Cambridge, or in other paths of life, testify at once to the high appre-
ciation of the school, and the great need of increased educational facilities which formerly
existed throughout the metropolitan districts south of the Thames.
At the commencement of the present year (1879) a new scheme for the future
administration of the endowment was brought forward by the Charity Commissioners,
according to the recommendations of which (if it should ultimately receive Parliamentary
sanction), the chapel. College, and gallery are to be maintained, but are to be separated
from the other branches of the foundation. The great school at Dulwich to which the
name of "Dulwich College" is to be henceforth restricted, is to have an endowmicnt of
£4,700 a year. The head master is to receive £200 a year, wath a capitation payment for
each pupil of not less than £3, or more than £5, Of the above sum of £4,700, £1,500 is
to be ajjplied to the establishment of scholarships tenable at the College, and £1,000
is to be appropriated for exhibitions tenable at the imiversity by pupils who have
finished their school course. It is further proposed that £800 shall be set aside annually
for the educational benefit of St. Giles's, Camberwell, and £400 a year respectively
for St. Saviour's, Southwark, St. Eotolph, and St. Luke's; and after the lapse of ten
years further amounts, both in capital and annual grants, for the schools in those parishes.
It may be mentioned here that the Eev. Alfred J. Carver, D.D., under whom Dulwich
College has achieved its present high position amongst our great public schools, and who
was elected Master in 1858, is the only individual who has held that office since the
foundation of the College who has not borne the name of Alleyn. During his mastership,
and mainly by his earnest and energetic efforts, the two schools of the College have
been created and organized : the upper school consisting now of GOO scholars, and
popularly known as " Dulwich College ; " and the lower school, in which a sound
English and commercial education is given to 200 boys.
In a small hrochure entitled " Alleyn's College of God's Gift," issued at the opening
of the new schools in 1870, the writer concludes —
"Thus, after many struggles and difficulties, and a long period of lethargy more
fruitless still, Dulwich College has started at length into fresh and vigorous life, with
powers of influence and means of usefulness which few foundations can rival, and -with
b2
4 HISTORY OF SURREY.
well-founded hopes for the future which far surpass the utmost expectations of its pious
and munificent founder."
St. Stephen's Church, in the Penge Eoad, South Dulwich, was built in 18G8, from the
designs of Mr. Charles Barry ; it is in the decorated style of architecture, and consists of
nave, chancel, aisles, tower, and spire.
St. John's Church, East Dulwich, was consecrated in 1865, and is a stone building
with a lofty spire. Its site was given by the late Lord Justice Selwyn, and the edifice
was erected at a cost of about £8,000.
There is a Wesleyan chapel at Dulwich in Lordship Lane, and an Independent chapel
at West Dulwich. The East Dulwich National Schools, erected many years ago, are
situated at Peckham Eye.
The manor of Hatcham according to Doomsday Book : "In Brixton Hundi-ed the Bishop
of Lisieux holds of the Bishop of Baieux, Hachesham, which Brixi held of King Edward.
It was then assessed at 3 hides, as it now is. The arable land amounts to 3 carucates.
There are nine villains, and three bordars, with 3 carucates ; and there are 6 acres of meadow.
The wood yields three swine : from the time of King Edward it has been valued at 40s."
Philipot, in his "Villare Cantianum," says that this manor was formerly considered as
a part of Kent, and its appropriation to either county was a matter of contest until 1G36,
when it was decided judicially to be subject to assessments as belonging to Surrey.'"' It
is given in Kelly's " Directory of the Home Counties " as part of the parish of St. Paul's,
Deptford, and in the coimty of Kent.
In a retui'n of knights' fees made to the Exchequer in the reign of Henry II., Gilbert
de Hachesham accounted for four knights' fees held of the barony of Walchelin Maminot.
In the next reign, as stated in the Testa de Nevill, two knights' fees in Hachesham and
Camerwcll were held of Humphrey de Bohun, Earl of Hereford, by William de Say and
the heirs of Eichard de Vabaduu. Sarah, daughter and heiress of Vabadun, married
Eogcr de Bavent, who in 46 Henry III. accounted at the Exchequer for two knights'
fees pertaining to the barony above mentioned. Adam de Bavent, the son of Eichard, had
a grant of free-warren here in 1285, and shortly after he alienated a portion of the estate to
Gregory de Eokesley, a citizen of London, who had been Lord Mayor from 1275 to
* This determination was made on the j^etition of Mr. Randolph Crew, a London merchant, probably lessee of this
manor and on the levy of ship-money he was taxed for his property here by the assessors of both counties. He did net,
like Hampden, qaiestion the legality of the tax, but merely objected to the hardship of being compelled to make a double
payment, and petitioned the Lords of the Council for redress, when the case being referred to the Judges of Assize for
Kent and Surrey, they in 1636 certified the Lords that the petitioner's manor of Hatcham lay in Surrey, and not in Kent
HATCHAM. ,
1281, and was Keeper of the Eoyal Exchequer, and Assay Master in eliief of tho iMiglish
Mints.
That part of the estate -which Eavcnt had retained was known as Ilatcliam-Bavant, or
Hatcham-Barncs, and was conveyed by Sir Eoger do Bavcnt to Edward III., who founded
a convent at Dartford, in Kent. Among its endowments was " the manor of Ilecchesham,''
with its appurtenances in Kent and Surrey.
After the dissolution of the convent this manor remained vested in the Crown until the
time of Philip and Mary, when it was assigned with other estates, for her life, to Ann,
widow of Edward Sej-mour, Duke of Somerset. James I., in IGIO, granted the manor of
Ilatcham-Barnes and the lands, &c., in "West Greenwich and Lewisham, in the counties
of Kent and Surrey, with the perquisites of courts formerly belonging to the monastery of
Dartford, to George Salter and John "William?. They sold the estate to Peter Vanlore, and
he to a person named Brookes, by whom it was conveyed to Sir John Gerrard and
Sir Thomas Lowe, aldermen of London, Kobert Oj63.ey and Martin Bond, citizens and
haberdashers, in trust for the foundation and support of an almshouse and free grammar
school at Monmouth, uudor the will of "William Jones, a Hamburg merchant, who died
in 1G15.
Gregory de Eokeslcy, Avho had acquired a part of Bavent's estate (as recorded above),
obtained a faculty, in 1285, from the Abbot of Begham, for an oratory which he had
erected for himself and family at Hechesham, in the parish of "West Greenwich or
Doptford, belonging to the abbot. Eokeslcy died in 1292-3 ; and Eoger Busslep, who
may have been his heir, sold or mortgaged this estate to Eobert Burnell, Bishop of Bath
and "Wells. On the Bishop's death in 1292, an extent was taken both of this and the manor
of Ilatcham-Barnes, from which it appears that here were a capital messuage, garden, and
fish-pond, with lands and rents of assize, valued altogether at £G Os. 2id. The Bishop's
claim on the estates descended to his nephew, Philip Burnell, who died seized in 22
Edward I., and this estate became vested in his heirs. His son Edward dying withoiit male
issue in 131G, the inheritance devolved on his daughter Maud, who married, first, "William,
Lord Level, and afterwards John de Handle. The descendants of the latter succeeded to
the possession of the Burnell estates under a settlement ; but, on the failure of male heirs of
that family, those estates reverted to 'William, Lord Lovel, who, however, in 1442 trans-
ferred Hechesham to Walter, Lord Hungerford, and his son, Sir Edmund Huugerford,
who had married a coheiress of the Burnell family.
The subsequent descent of this estate is uncertain ; but it may possibly have passed
by the marriage of an heiress from the Hungerfords to the family of Hastings, as there is
6 HISTORY OF SURREY.
a building between Camberwell and Stockwell, called Lougbborough House, -wbicb may
have been founded by Edward Hastings, created Baron Lougbborough by Queen Eliza-
beth in 1558, or by Henry Hastings, who obtained the same barony from Charles I. in
1643, but neither of whom left heii-s to continue the title. In 1749 Cowper and his wife
levied a fine to Gordon of one-third of the manor of Little Hatcham, in Peckham,
Camberwell, &c., which possibly has reference to that part of the Bm-nell estate now
under notice. The name of Lord Loughborough is stiU retained in this neighbourhood by
Loughborough Eoad, and also by Loughborough Park, a rapidly increasing district.
Lysons, writing about 1790, informs us that the manor of Hatcham was reduced to a
single house. This is incorrect, as evinced by several long leases granted under the
authority of the Coiu-t of Chancery in 1763, 1767, and 1778.
Hatcham is situated about three miles from London Bridge, on the Old Kent Eoad,
and near New Cross. It was at one time pai-t and parcel of the parish of St. Paul.
Deptford, but, pursuant to an Act of Parliament, it has been created a distinct parish,
called Hatcham New Town. The chm'ch, a large and lofty Gothic edifice dedicated to
St. James, was commenced about the year 1845, at which time the Eev. A. K. B. GranviUe
was appointed its first incumbent.
Having thus narrated the more important circumstances associated with the descent of
the different manors of Camberwell, we proceed to a description of its local features, the
general characters of which have in recent years been completely changed by the exten-
sion of buildings and advance of population.
Cambekwell now partakes of the business and bustle of the metropolis, very much
of its ancient pastures and garden grounds having been absorbed by new streets and
buildings. About 1766 the then village was described as of " rather a straggling form,
but with many good buildings in it, inhabited by the gentry and citizens of London."
The number of houses within the parish was then only 800 ; but since that time new
streets have been built in all directions, especially within the last few years, so that
the population may now be given as about 115,000 souls. The whole northern part
of the parish, and indeed the adjacent disti-ict as far as the river Thames, is almost an
unvaried level ; but towards the soiith-east and south the hills, rising in gentle yet
undulating slopes, sweep round in a semicircular direction, and partially enclose the valley
in which the more crowded parts of Camberwell and Peckham are situated.
Independently of several Dissenting chapels, Camberwell contains the following
churches: — St. Giles's, St. George's, Christ Church, St. Mary Magdalene's, Emmanuel
CAMBERWELL. 7
Clnircli. Camdou Clixu-cli, St. James's, St. Liiko's. All Saiuts", aud St. Philip's ; St. raul's
and St. Saviour's, Herno Hill ; aud St. [Matthew's, Denmark Hill. There are also chapels-
of-case at East Dulwich aud reckham.
ArvoAvsox, c^e. — lu 11-34 the beuefice of Caniberwell was given by William de
Mcllcnt, Eaii of Gloucester, '• to God, aud the monks of St. Saviour, Bermoudseve ; " aud
the grant was confirmed by Henry II. in 11-59. Notwithstanding this, the descend;mts
of the Eai-1 contested the patronage until 32 Henry III., wheu Eiehard de Clare,
great-grandson to the above William, levied a fine and released all further claim to
Ymberton, the prior, and the convent of Bermondsey. In 1346, as appears from the
Eegister of Bishop Edintou, a commission was issued for reconciling the church of
Camberwell, the same having '• been polluted by bloodshed." but in what mauuer is not
stated. After the dissolution of the monasteries the advowsou was grouted by the Crown
to Thomas and Mai-gai-et Calton, together with the manor of Dulwieh ; but in 1 Charles L
both the rector}- (now a lay impropriation) and tlie advowson of Camberwell had become
the property of Sir Edward Bowyer, Kut. From his fomily the patronage was conveyed,
^vith a part of the manorial estate, under difierent marriages, to the Windhams aud Smijths
\i:ide vol. ii. p. 357); and subsequently the advowson was conveyed by the Eev. Sii" Edward
Bowyer Smijth, Bart., to the Kev. John George Storie, M.A., late Yicai- of Camberwell. It
was afterwards in the hands of Kelleys, and is now vested in trustees.
This is a vicarage in the deanery of Southwark. In the Yalor of 20 Edward I. the
vicarage appears rated at 10 marks, the rectory at 24 marks : the former in the King's
books is valued at £20 per annum, paying 2s. Id. for synodals. Uuder the Tithe Commu-
tation Act the annual rent-charge for the rectorial tithes was fixed at £83, and that for
the vicai-ial tithes at £1,100. The number of tithable acres within this parish was thus
estimated :— Arable land, 402 . 0 . 39 ; metidows, 2,199 . 0 . 28 ; woodland, 198 . 1 . 20 ;
commons, bb ; market gardens, 420 . 0 . 36 ; gardens, 887 . 0 . 30 ; roads. 159 . 0 . 20 ;
glebe, 20 . 3 . 20 ; the whole amounting to 4,342 acres aud 39 poles.
The Registers of Camberwell commence in 1558, but the originals are not extant. In
the oldest Eegister now preserved (a correct transcript), this entry, in old English, is
inscribed on the title-page : —
"(Ehis ^fgisttr Church Sookcof parthmrnttoas cngrosstb ani torittcn out of thrtt olic iicgiatrr paper boofcts,
ani inakcth nuntoon of all marr.igca, thristcnings, anb hnrialla U'ithin the parrishc of iL'ambtrliicll, in the ConntPt
of ^urrtn from s« rtarc of our Sorb (Sob, 155S, nntill this present ijere of our ^orb Cob, lo02 ; anb in the fube
anb fortith uerc of »« raignc of 0^ most gnitious ^oberaigne (Qnecnc (fli^abcth.
The foUowiug remarkable instances of longevity occiu- in the Eegister : — " May 'b'b . 5°.
Eose, wife of Wm. Hathaway, bur'd." Between this and the next entry it is added in
8 HISTORY OF SURREY.
another hand, "Aged 103, who boare a sonn at the age of 63." Three years afterwards
the interment of the husband of Eose is thus entered: — "3 October, 1661. Do' die,
"Wm. Hathaway buried." — "Aged 103 — 5." — " Mary Dickinson, aged above ninety-nine
years, buried in 1702." — "Elizabeth Jones, aged 125, buried in 1775." *
The following additional instances of great age connected with this parish are given in
Allport's " Collections : "—Mrs. Weldyn, of Camberwell, died in 1778, aged 106 ; Mr.
Eamsay, of Peckham, died in 1769, aged 105; Elizabeth Horsier, widow, died in 1821, in
the parish workhouse, aged 105; Mrs. Campion, aged 105; Sarah, widow of Mr. Latham
Brickwood, died in 1837, aged 105, having survived her husband 63 years; Elizabeth
Claxton, "who bore a daughter at the age of sixty," and died in 1822, aged 103;
Leonard Nelson, aged 103 ; Mrs. Toite, of Camberwell, died in 1767, aged 102 ; John
Henniker, of Camberwell, died in 1788, aged 101 ; Elizabeth Arnutt, died in 1710,
aged 99.
In 1684 the names of three young persons, aged respectively eighteen years, nine
years, and one year, are entered in the Eegister as having been touched as it is called, at
Camberwell, for the king's evil. Mr. AUjDort conjectures that the "royal touch " (then
and even much later regarded as an effectual cm'e for scrofulous disorders) was
administered at Sir Thomas Bond's {vide vol. ii. p. 360), where Charles II. is said to
have been an occasional visitor.f On June 2, 1687, occurs this entry: — "King and
quen of Jepsies. Eobt. Hern and Elezbeth Bozwell, marid."
"The CoUecc'on for Tenths 1604 delyv'de to Mr. Eoger Coole the 23 of May, by
Will'm Fell and Jhon Peare, Churchwardens," records the principal residents at Camber-
well at the beginning of the reign of James I. : — " S' Edmond Bowyer viij' — S'' Thomas
Gardin'^ ij' — S"^ Thomas Grymes iij' — S' Thomas Hunt iij^ — Edward Wilson, vicar iij' —
Captayn Turn"' pro toto a" x' — Mr. Muschamp xviij"^;" and then, among others, "Mr.
Swingfeld ij^ — Mr. Cesar vj*^-"
Among the entries of marriage are the following: — "1622, Dec. 3. Edw. Allen, Esq.
to Mrs. Constance Donn." This was the founder of Dulwich College, and his second wife,
one of the daughters of the celebrated Dr. Donne, Dean of St. Paul's.
* Lysons, " Environs," vol. i. p. 83. In the St. James's Chronicle, in May, 1775, appeared an account of tliis
woman, in whicli it was said that she retained her facilities perfectly, that she remembered being at service when
Charles II. was crowned, and that the nurse who attended her in Camberwell workhouse was 101 years of age.
t The spirit of " the Merrie Monarch," Mr. AUport remarks, " and his licentious court, seems about this time to
have betrayed even the grave old registrar of Camberwell from his propriety, for he has introduced into this part of
the lugubrious record, a variety of sketches which would do no discredit to the crow-quill of George Cruikshank.
The capitals are graced mth flourishes of every kind,— faces Uvely and .severe, clouds and cherubim, hearts and darts,—
and, in one instance, the solemn bird of night is figured in the act of smoking a pipe with all becorjuig gravity."—
Collections, &c. p. 79.
CAMBERWELL. g
" 1627, Mar. 27. John Donne & Mary Staples." This John was the eklest son of the
Dean.
Rectors of Camberwell in and since 1800 :—
1. — George Sandhy, M.A. Instituted in 1795.
2. — Edward Boivijer Smij'th, M.A. Instituted in 1811.
3. — John George Storie, M.A. Instituted in 1823.
4. — James Williams^ M.A. Instituted in 1846.
St. Giles's, the mother church of Camberwell, was most probably founded in the
Anglo-Saxon age, as it is noticed in the Doomsday Book. It is supposed to have been
rebuilt about the middle of the twelfth century, and was given by William, Earl of
Gloucester, to the priory of Bermondsey, Lysons conceived that it was again rebuilt
" towards the beginning of the reign of Henry YIII. ; " but the architectural charac-
teristics of the old portions of the late structure denoted an earlier period by at least half a
century : this was particularly observable both in respect to the tower and to the semi-
hexagon apsis forming the east end of the chancel. Considerable alterations and enlarge-
ments were subsequently made down to 1838; but however necessary those works might
have been for the accommodation of the parishioners, they were subversive of the
symmetry and proportions of the buildiug. At length a more ruthless enemy than even
tastelcssncss or architectural insipidity completed the demolition of the fabric. In 1841
the church was dcstroj'cd by fire. Scarcely any part remained but the bare walls : the
monuments, and even the bells, were destroyed.
Among the monuments were many relating to the old families formerly resident at
Camberwell and Peckham ; namely, Scott, Skynner, Muschamp, Bowycr, Dove, Draper,
Stacy, &c. There were also various brasses, of which two or three have been preserved
and placed in the robing-room in the new church.
The north aisle, regarded as the most ancient part of the old structure, was dedicated
to St. Nicholas; and Eichard Skynner, interred in the chancel, by his will dated in 1492,
bequeathed the sum of 8d. for a light to bum there before the image of the saint : he also
gave 12d. for another light to be placed before the image of the Virgin Mary in the south
aisle.
This was the bui-ial-place of the Muschamps of Peckham, whose common ancestor is
named in the EoU of Battle Abbey among the warriors who accompanied William the
Norman when he invaded England. The eastern window of this aisle had been curiousl)'
ornamented with stained glass, including many small portraits of the Muschamp family,
VOL. III. c
10 HISTORY OF SURREY.
together -with, tkeir arms and alliances. In Aubrey's time, in opposite compartments,
were the figures of a man and woman, each kneeling at a faldstool, Avith smaller
figures of ten sons, in gowns, behind the former, and ten daughters behind the latter.
There were likewise supplicatory inscriptions connected with the names — Sffiliirmi
ilTiuscljnmp, avmigcri, et Agnetis uxoris eius, &e. — and the dates, 1520 and 1528.*
Near the north-east corner of this aisle was a mural monument commemorative of a
female descendant of the above, namely, Jane, daughter and coheiress of Thomas Muschamp,
Esq., and wife of Sir Thos. Hunt, of Ijambeth-Deue, Knt. ; but she had been previously
married to Thos. Grymes, "cittizen and habberdasher," of London and Peckham, who
died about 1590, and whose son (of the same name) was afterwards knighted, and made a
Justice of Peace for this county. She was represented by a small kneeling figure within
a recessed arch, surrounded by a square ornamental framework. At the top were the
arms of Hunt — Per pale, arg. and sal. a saltire counterchanged : bn a canton of the
second, a lion passant, guardant, of the first. At the bottom was an inscription in verse
referring to the deceased as "a fruitful branch from Muschamp's stock:" she died in
1G04.
The south aisle became the burial-place of the Scotts, of whom there were several
memorials, the earliest being a large greystone slab, inlaid with a full-length brass of a
knight in armour, the inscription beneath which commemorated Edward Scott, who died
in 1538 ; yet the style of the armour was of a much earlier date.f
Against the adjacent wall was afiixed a handsome monument, displaying the kneeling
effigies of John Scott the younger, "son and heir of John Scott, one of the Barons of the
Exchequer ; " Bartholomew Scott, Esq., " a valiant, wise, and religious gentleman," fifth
son of the former; and Margaret (widow of Wm. Gardiner, Esq.), the third wife of
Bartholomew, "who, at her owne cost, erected this Tombe to the happi Memorie of hei
beloved." The first wife, according to the inscription of Bartholomew Scott, who died
in IGOO, "was Maeg: te "Wido: op the eight eeveke'd Peel: and Maette Tho:
CEA>fMEE, Aech. Bish: oe Canteebtjeie." On sis small shields in front were tho
armorial bearings of Scott, viz. — Arcj. on a fess sah. three boars' heads, couped, or ; and
* For a more particiilar description of this window the reader may refer to Lysons's " Environs," vol. i. pp. 73, 74,
and Allport's " Collections," pp. 151—165, the latter including many notices of the Muschamps and their alliances. The
vault under the aisle, foiming the bm-ial-place of this family, as well as of the subsequent lords of the Peckham estate,
was, Mr. Allport says, " until recently, entered by displacing a slab in the exterior buttress, wliich, on the demolition of
the church, was found to conmiunicate also, by a stone staircase built mthin the buttress, with an upper gallery, leading
possibly across the chapel to the old rood-loft."
t An engraving of this figure, and also engravings of Bartholomew Scott's, Lady Hunt's, and other memorials,
including the ancient brasses, are given in Allport's " Collections."
CAMBERWELL. u
also those of BckcMcll, Brctyngliurst, Wclbcck, Skynncr, and Eobins : the samo bearings
were marshalled on a single shield surmounting the entablature.
Here, likeAvise, was "a fair monument," as Aubrey describes it, in memory of Sir
Peter Scott, Knt., who died in 1G22. Among the other memorials was a long inscription,
in Latin, for Peter Scott, LL.D., Canon of Windsor, and his wife Margaret, daughter of
Sir "William Bowles, and grand-daughter of the celebrated Dr. Donne — she died in
1641 ; another, in memory of Eobert Waitli, gent., Paymaster of the Navy, who died in
16S5; an elegant monument of white marble, by Flaxman, representing "a Scholar
mourning over the tomb of a beloved Master," and thus inscribed — " M.S. ISI'iciiolai
Wanosteocht, LL.D. Obit 19 iN'ovem. 1812, iEtat. 06. Discipuli ejus mocrcntes hoc
monumentum posuere ; " and a handsome tablet, with a long eulogistic epitaph, com-
memorative of Charles Hamond, Esq., "a merchant of London," who died in 1807.
In the chancel, on the north side, had been an altar tomb, inlaid with brasses (of which
Lysons has given an etching), of John Scott, Esq., a Paron of the Exchequer under
Henry VIIL, and his wife Elizabeth : the former died in 1532. Both were represented
kneeling at faldstools, on which were open missals ; behind them were smaller brasses of
four sons and seven daughters ; and above were two shields, which, fully blazoned, would
be thus : —
1st. Quarterlj^, 1st and 4th, arg. on a fess sah. three boars' heads, couped, or — Scott. 2nd and 3itl, «;■. on a fess
dancette, arg. three martlets, gu. — Brety7ighurst. 2nd. The same quarterings, imp. gu. ; three crossbows,
erect, arg. — Shjnner.
Here also were several memorials of the Bowyers, and of the Smijths and Windhams,
who succeeded to their estates in this parish. Sir Edmund Bowyer the elder was
interred in the chancel in 1626 ; and against the south wall was a handsome monument in
memory of his son, Sir Edmund the younger, and his wife Hester, daughter of Sir
Anthony Aucher, Knt., of Bourne Place, in Kent, whose family was much distinguished
for the beauty of its females. Sir Edmund died in 1681, and his lady ia 1665 : of the
latter the inscription said, "There was a happy sympathy betwixt the vertues of the
soul and the beauty of the body of this excellent deceased person : she lived a holy life,
and died the death of the righteous." * A neat tablet recorded the interment of Dame
Ann Yernon, wife of Sir Eobert Vernon, Knt., Clerk of the Green-cloth to Charles I. : she
died in 1627. Another tablet was inscribed for Captain Charles Smijth, E.N., of Hill
Hal], Essex (a lineal descendant of Sir Thomas Smijth, Knt., Secretary of State under
Queen Elizabeth), buried here in 1792.
* In the valuable collection of portraits by Cornelius Jansen and others, at St. Alban's Court (the seat of the
Hammonds), in Kent, is a fine picture of Lady Bowyer, who, from her exquisite beauty, was called the Star of the East.
c2
,2 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Almost immediately after the fire proceedings were undertaken for the erection of a
new church sufficiently large to accommodate 2,000 persons. The first stone was laid in
1843, and the edifice was consecrated by the Bishop of Winchester in 1844. In its
design this handsome edifice is a composition based on the transition style of the latter
half of the thirteenth century, when the early English pointed architecture was advancing
into the decorated style. The ground-plan is cruciform : the structure consists principally
of nave and aisles, a transept and a chancel, and at the intersection rises a square tower,
surmounted by an octagonal spire of an ornamental character.*
The mass of the walls is constructed of Kentish ragstone mixed with materials from
the old church, and the exterior is faced with hammer-dressed stone from Yorkshire, with
dressings of Caen stone, the relief arising from the difference of colour in these materials
giving a pleasing effect to the whole. The roofs, of a high pitch, are covered with slab
slates, which have the same general effect as lead. The buttresses and other projections
arc bold and massive, and the ornamental details of the doors, windows, &c., though
simple in themselves, display considerable variety.-}" There is an entrance at the west
end, and also from a north and south porch, the former being the most enriched, and having
the arms of the then vicar sculptured on the boss at the intersection of its groined roof.
The nave is separated from the aisles by five high-pointed arches on each side, springing
alternately from octagonal and cii-cular columns, the capitals of which are ornamented with
sculptui'ed foliage. The weatherings rest on corbel heads, and the timber framework of
the roof is also supported by stone corbels. On each side of the nave is a large gallery,
partly sustained by brackets, and partly by clustered columns of cast iron. The gallery
fronts are pierced by a series of pointed arches, springing from small shafts. The large
west window exhibits a threefold division of trefoil-headed lights, enriched with ancient
stained glass brought from Cologne, with small cu-cular lights, &c., above, extending to
the apex.
At the intersection of the nave and transept are four high-pointed arches, sustained by
clustered columns of massive stonework: these support the tower and spire, the space
beneath which is also groiaed with stone. In the northern division of the transept is
placed a very fine-toned organ by Bishop. The southern division is occupied by
* Tlioiigh the spire rises to the height of 207 feet from the ground, it is scarcely lofty enough to harmonize mth the
general elevation of the building. No hlame, however, attaches to the architects in that respect, as it was originally
designed to have been 225 feet high ; but the reduced funds involved curtailment, and the charge of erecting the spire was
chiefly defrayed by subscription. The principal admeasurements are nearly as follow : — Extreme length of the church,
153 feet ; extent of transept, 87 feet ; length of nave, 80 feet ; width of the nave and aisles, 65 feet ; length of chancel,
42 feet ; width of ditto, 28 feet ; square of tower above the roof, 30 feet.
t Viii Gentleman's Magazine, vol. xxiii. p. 75, January, 1845.
CAMBERWELL. ,3
seats ; aud the large south, wiudow is filled with brilliantly staiucd glass of a mosaic
character, in which small figui-es are introduced of St. Peter and St. Paul. The eastern
window in this part is also embellished with small figures of Moses and our Saviour in
adjoining compartments. Beneath the former is inscribed, in old characters, the following
text from Deuteronomy (xviii. 15): — "The Lord thy God will raise up a Prophet
of thy Brethren, like unto me. Unto him shall ye Hearken." Under the Saviour, from
the Gospel of St. Matthew (v. 17), are the words, " Think not that I am come
to destroy the Law, or the Prophets : I am not come to destroy, but to fulfil." At the
bottom, *' In a vault beneath this window is the burying-place of Matthew Eobinson, of
Dulwich, Esq., and in memory of him, aud of his family there buried, this painted window
was erected by his son, Augustus Eobinson, a.d. 1844."
Arms : — 1st shield, or, on a chev. gu. three cinquefoils of the first, betw. three harts trippant, vtrt — Eobinson ;
imp. sab. tliree bars enn. on a canton arg. a lion rampant, az. 2nd shield — Robinson, as before, imp. arg.
betw. three kingfishers proper, on a fess wavy, vert, three fountains.
Much elegance is displayed in the arrangements and fittings of the chancel. On each
side are three pointed windows, each consisting of two trefoil-headed lights, with quatre-
foils, &c., above ; and at the east end is a large high-pointed window enriched with painted
glass. This window consists in the lower part of five lanee-like divisions, and in the
upper, extending to the apex, of five cinquefoil and several smaller segmental lights, those
nearest the heading being enclosed within a large circle. In respect to the decorations, the
entu-e composition is of a mediaeval character, in which " a statuesque simplicity and
severity, approaching to rudeness of design, have generally been aimed at, in preference to
the ornate and elaborate graces of a more pictorial period of the art."
The large central division is appropriated to the illustration of our Lord's Nativity,
Temptation, Crucifixion, Eesurrection, and Ascent into Heaven. These subjects, the
Eesurrection excepted (which is in a diamond), are depicted within quatrefoil compart-
ments, each enclosed by a circle, and the surrounding spandrels include allegorical delinea-
tions analogous to the main design. In the three triangular segments over this division
are small figures of Jewish kings ; and within the adjacent cinquefoils, in diamonds, are
represented the Baptism of Christ and the Last Supper, the surrounding foils being
occupied by historical and symbolical illustrations of each subject. The "Woman clothed
with the Sun, the Binding of the Dragon for a thousand years (Ecvelation xii. and
XX.), and the Final Judgment are delineated in the thi-ee cinquefoils comprised within the
great circle in the head of the window, the foils displaying analogous accessories. In the
corresponding spandrels are represented the Eising of the Dead to Judgment, the Souls
14 HISTORY OF SURREY.
of tlie Blest received iuto Heaven, and the Spirits of tlie Condemned delivered to
Punishment.*
The communion-table and altar screen are of stone ; the latter, elaborately sculptured
and ornamented in the pointed style, encloses tables of the commandments. Lord's prayer,
and creed in the illuminated characters of the Middle Age. On each side of the chancel is
a series of oaken stalls for choristers ; and the floor is paved with encaustic and other tiles,
the gift of the late Thomas Garrett, Esq., of Heme Hill, who also presented the slabs
of porcelain ornamenting the pulpit, on which are painted the figures of Christ and the
four evangelists. The pulpit and seats in the area of the church are of oak, and the
latter are all open, though to a certain extent conventionally appropriated : there are no
pews properly so called. The font, octagonal and of an elegant character, is surrounded
by a brass railing.
The erection of this chiirch cost about £16,000; the various furniture, including the
organ, bells, clock, altar table and draperies, font, warming apparatus, &c., about £3,000
more, which was raised by subscription. The entire charge, so far as the expenditure
relates to the building and fittings of the church itself, amounted to nearly £20,000.
In the churchyard, now occupying an extensive plot of ground on the north of the
church, are many sarcophagi, &c., commemorative of former parishioners, as well as
numerous humble memorials for other individuals. "Want of space, however, precludes
our particularising them here. Some of the recent inscriptions have been given in
AUport's "Collections," already referred to; and many of the earlier dates are noticed in
the respective works of Aubrey, Lysons, and Manning and Bray.
Camberwell Feee Grammar School. — This school was founded under the sanction
of the letters-patent of James I., bearing date 1615, by the Eev. Edward Wilson, clerk,
Yicar of Camberwell from 1577 to 1618. The endowment consisted of 7 acres of land
adjoining the east end of the churchyard, with a school-house and some adjacent tene-
ments. The governors appointed by the founder were the patron, vicar, and church-
wardens of Camberwell, the rectors of St. Olave's, Southwark, Lambeth, and Newington
Butts, the vicars of Carshalton, and the masters of the school, together with seven
gentlemen of Camberwell and its vicinity. On the occurrence of vacancies through the
deaths of non-ofiicial governors, the survivors were empowered to choose new coadjutors
among the heirs or representatives of those originally nominated ; but it appears " that
these lay-governors are lost to the charity, thi'ough the difficulty, if not impossibility, of
* For minute details of the above composition the reader may refer to a small tract ■written by one of its designers, and
entitled, " A Description of the Painted Window in the Chancel of St. Giles's Church, Cambe^\^'ell."
CAMBERWELL. ,5
finding out their heirs." * The governors form a body corponite, having a common seal,
represented by the subjoined woodcut, and which exhibits the master seated, baton in
hand, with his scholars standing respectfully around him.
It was ordained that the master shall be " honest, pious, discreet, sedulous, fit and
learned, and a Master of Arts, who can make Greek and Latin verses ; such an one as can
discern the nature and disposition of every child ; careful, diligent, Aviscly mixing severity
with lenity, and using means to cheer up the scholars and not to dull them, — if such an
one can be gotten ; " and it was further dii-ectcd that the master should have a yearly
salary of £10 diuing the life of the founder, and after his decease receive the rents and
profits of certain messuages, &c., and be allowed to take an unlimited number of stipen-
diary pupils, in addition to twelve children, the sons of poor inhabitants of the parish, and
the son of every eldest warden of Camberwell, who were to be taught Latin and Greek
gratuitously. It was likewise ordered that the master's dues should be paid at the entrance
of every scholar, namely, 5s. 3d. per quarter, towards brooms
and rods, and in the week after Michaelmas a pound of good
candles. The scholars were t& devote ten hour* a day to
study in the summer, and eight in the winter ; to play but
once a week, on Thursday; and to amuse themselves on
half-holidays by learning Calvin's Catechism, or some other,
by heart. Shooting with a long bow^ chess, running,
wrestling, and leaping were the sports allowed.
About 181G the instruction of the free scholars in Latin
and Greek, long discontinued, was resumed; and in 1821 the governors reduced the
period of study to five houi-s a day, and agreed that the scholars should be taught English,
reading, and arithmetic, as well as the learned languages. f
In 1824 the governors sold and conveyed to the Charity Commissioners a portion of the
school land as an addition to the churchyard of the parish; and in 1842 an information
was filed in the Court of Chancery against the governors and the then master of the school
with respect to its past and future management. In consequence of these proceedings, in
1845 the school was pulled down, and for nearly eighteen years its site was let out for
grazing pui-poses. In 1864 another application was made to the Charity Commissioners,
* See Rules and Regulations of the Free Grammar School, Camberwell, 1824.
t Among the few persona who acquired any literary eminence under the old r^jinw at this seminary was James
T3TTell, eldest son of Sir Timothy Tyrrell, Knt, and Elizabeth his wife, only daughter of Archbishop Usher. In 1657
he was admitted a gentleman commoner at Queen's College, Oxford, and in 1663 was created M.A. He was the
author of a Tohmiinous History of England and also of other works, chiefly relating to the English Constitution. His death
occiirred in 1718.
1 6 HISTORY OF SURREY.
under the Charitable Trusts Act, on behalf of certain parishioners of Camberwell, which
resulted in the whole of the funds of the charity being absorbed by the official trustees of
Charitable Funds.
St. Geokge's Chuech. — The district attached to this church forms the north end of
Camberwell, and is almost equally intersected by the Surrey Canal, upon the southern
bank of which this ediiice is situated. The first stone was laid in 1822, by Dr. Tomline,
Bishop of Winchester, and in 1824 the church was consecrated. This church, built
from the designs of Francis Bedford, Esq., after the model of one of the churches in Eome,
is in the Grecian style, and has a steeple rising from the west end of the roof. The total
cost of the edifice was somewhat more than £20,G00, of which £5,000 was contributed
ST. GEORGE S NATIONAL SCHOOLS.
by the Commissioners for Building Churches and Chapels under the Act of 58 George III.
cap. 45, and the remainder by a rate and voluntary subscriptions.*
St. George's National Schools.— These schools were founded in 1824, and were
instituted for the instruction of 250 children of either sex in conformity to the principles
of the Established Church. In conseqiience of the increased population of the neighbour-
hood it became desirable to extend the plan ; and, the resources of the du'cctors having
* By another Act of Parliament, passed in 59 Geo. III. cap. 154, the care of the churches towards the erection of
which contributions were given under the former Act was vested in a Select Vestry, to be appointed for each new district
parish. Very soon after the building of St. George's Church, the Select Vestry, by their own authority, made a rate for
its maintenance, which was resisted, and on technical grounds declared illegal. A second rate experienced a like fate, on
similar grounds. A tliird rate was then made by the Select Vestry, which was again resisted, and raised the important
question, whether or not the Select Vestries attached to churches erected under the above-mentioned Acts had the power
to make rates without the concurrence of the inhabitants. The case was solemnly argued in the Court of King's Bench ;
and in 1831 its judgment was pronounced by Lord Tenterden, and decided that the Acts in question gave no such power.
This decision settled the law upon the subject for the entu-e kingdom.
CAMBERWELL. 17
been augmented by a bequest of £500 made by Mr. Josepli "^Vard iu 1835, it was
agreed tliat a new school-liouse, comprising residences for tlie master and mistress, should
be erected sufficiently large for 450 children. With this object, the present substantial
structure, Avhich stands near the church, and fronts the canal at the cast end of St.
George's Eoad, was erected from the designs of Mr. W. G. Colman, architect, the first
stone having been laid by Henry Kemble, Esq., M.P. for East Surrey, in 1839, and the
schools were opened in 1840, The building is in the Elizabethan style, and the ground-plan
nearly resembles the initial letter E of the name of "our maiden queen." It consists
only of a ground floor, except in the gables, which, together with the bay windows and the
chimney shafts, give a picturesque character to the whole. In front of the central
gable is a shield, displaying a St. Andrew's cross, fancifully ornamented at its upper ends
with a crosier and a crown — iu allusion, possibly, to the union of Church and State.
The cost of this edifice, which is constructed of red brick, with stone dressings, was about
£3,000, which was chiefly defrayed by voluntary contributions.
A new Infant School has since been erected in this parish ; and districts have been
severed and churches erected, together with Mission Eooms — St. Philip's in the Kent
Eoad, with 7,000 souls ; and St. Luke's, built on the site of the Old Eosemary Branch
Field, with 10,000 souls.
Christ Chuech. — The district attached to this church has much changed since 1850,
the fields and market gardens having been covered with rows of small houses. The
population, formerly of the well-to-do order, is now composed of the lower middle or
poorer classes, and numbers about 13,000 or 14,000. The works of the South Metropolitan
Gas Company have enormously increased in recent years. Ten years ago, on account
of their close proximity and growth, Christ Church, erected in 1838, had to be removed.
The edifice and site were purchased by the Gas Company, and the materials were used in
their buildings. With £6,000 from the company and various contributions, another Christ
Church was erected iu Old Kent Eoad, and consecrated July 1st, 1868. It is a large and
lofty structure, the reverse of handsome, having poor windows and a peculiar tower. It
was constructed to seat 1,260 persons, including children.
A large Eoman Catholic Church, with priest's house, was erected in this parish in or
about 1854.
In this district, at New Peckham, at a short distance southward from the Old Kent
Eoad, is the Licensed Victuallers' Asylum, founded in the early part of 1827. It
consists of a long range of brick buildings, two stories in height, having similar wings
projecting at right angles from each end. The chief entrance is under a portico of six
VOL. Jir. D
I3 HISTORY OF SURREV.
Ionic columns, with a pediment and clock, above Avliich are a low-domed turret and
vane. In front is an extensive plot of ground (divided from the road by an iron
railing), laid out in gravel walks and parterres, planted with shrubs and flowers. This
charity is well supported by the general body of victuallers, for whose reception, wlien
aged and distressed, and that also of their wives or widows, the Asylum was raised.
In 1849 and 1858 new wings were added to it; and in 1866, a donation of 1,000
guineas having been recently made to the institution, it was resolved that the only
remaining space on the grounds available for building piirposes should be utilised. This
was accordingly carried ou*-. This addition completed the Asylum as a building, and it
now contains 170 separate and entirely distinct habitations, each having three rooms, &c.
There are also two lodges (erected in 1840), forming other dwellings. The little chapel
of the institution is enriched with stained-glass memorial windows, and in the open space
in front is a marble statue of the late Prince Consort. The Licensed Victuallers' School,
for the maintenance, clothing, and education of about 200 orphan children of cither sex,
is situated in Kennington Lane, Lambeth.
Nearly opposite to the Asylum, in the road to which it gives name, are the Christ
Church National axd Infant Schools, the site of which was given by Sir Edward
Bowyer Smijth, Bart., whoso armorial bearings are sculptured over the entrance. These
schools occupy a neat building in the Tudor style. There are also Board Schools.
St. Mary Magdalene Church, Peckhait. — The district connected with this edifice
forms a large portion of the eastern half of Camberwell parish, and was formerly an
almost uninterrupted succession of market-garden grounds. The church, a substantial
building of brick with stone dressings, is situated in the road leading from Deptford
Lane to the Nunhead Cemetery, and stands on a plot of ground long called the Duck's
Nest. The design is a composition from the Norman and early pointed styles, and
consists of nave and aisles, a cuancel, and a western tower (forming the general entrance)
surmounted by a lofty spire. The middle area is wholly filled by the free sittings.
There are deep galleries, supported by cast-iron columns, on each side, and also at the
west end, which is partitioned oif by a range of three pointed arches : in the central
recess is a small organ. The altar screen is of stone, of handsome design, and divided
into five compartments, within which the commandments, &c., are fancifully inscribed in
imitation of old manuscripts. All the windows are of the lancet form, those at the east
and west ends being duplicated, the others single. Spacious and well-ventilated
catacombs extend beneath the building. This church was consecrated by the Bishop of
"Winchester in 1841. Schools were built in this parish in 1856, at a cost of £1,260.
CAMBERWELL. ,g
At jSTuuliead is a range of almshouses called Beeston's Gift, erected in IS-'U, for
seven aged persons, by the Girdlers' Company, who were appointed trustees by tlio
donor. On Nun Green is a small chapel associated with the Christian Instruction Society,
and first opened in 1836.
The NuNHE.VD Cemetery, which occupies an elevated situation between Peckham
Eje and the Kent Eoad, tlie greater portion of which formed a part of the old Shard
estate, was purchased by the London Cemetery Company. It comprises an area of
nearly 50 acres, enclosed by an iron railing, and was consecrated, with the exception of
8 acres left for the burial of Dissenters, by the Bishop of Winchester in 1840. The
chapels were erected in 1844.
The principal chapel (Church of England) which is in the decorated pointed style, is
octagonal in form, and built Avith light-coloured brick, having a pointed roof of slate.
There is an attached ante-chapel, or vestibule, expanding like a small transept, and a
square and lofty entrance porch, or rather tower, open on three sides, and sufficiently large
to admit hearses and other carriages to be drawn up within it : this is embattled, and
surmounted at the corners by tall pinnacles richly ornamented. Six sides of the octagon
are fitted up with stalls for the attending mourners, at the entrance is a carved oaken
screen, and on the opposite side a small reading-desk for the delivery of the burial service.
Beneath the chapel are spacious vaults, partially fitted up as catacombs. The cost was
about £4,000.
The Dissenters' chapel, on the uuconsecrated ground, is a smaller building, lighted on
each side by three hexangular windoAvs, and at the end by a triple lancet window,
with a tracery head of quatrefoils and other ornaments. Here is an ante-chapel, with a
gallery above for the accommodation of spectators : this chapel is also fitted up with stalls
of a similar character to those in the other chapel. There is a small robing-room, and
vaults for catacombs run beneath the entire building.
At the entrance of the cemetery are two lodges, one of which is occupied as an office,
and the other as a dwelling for the resident manager. The views obtained from the
higher ground in the cemetery are very attractive : on one side is seen London, backed by
Highgate and Ilampstead hills, and on others the hills of Surrey and Kent.
Camberwell Cejieteuy is situated near the southern cud of Peckham Rye, and on the
south side of Forest Hill Eoad, within a short distance of Honour Oak Hill. It covers
several acres of ground, and is tastefully planted with trees and shrubs.
A Presbyterian church was established in Meeting-House Lane, Peckham, soon after
the Ecstoration ; but in 1716 a new place of worship was erected at the corner of Eye
D 2
20 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Lane, and designated Hanover Chapel, in compliment to the then recent accession of the
Hanoverian djaiasty. Several very able preachers have been connected Avith this chapel;
and under the ministry of Dr. William Bengo CoUyer, appointed in 1801, it became necessary
at first to enlarge, and after-svards to rebuild the chapel : this was effected in 1810, at the
cost of about £3,600, raised by voluntary donations. The interior is surrounded by
galleries, and will accommodate about 1,200 persons, inclusive of the seats erected for
the Sunday scholars on either side of the organ. The pulpit is of unique design, and near
it is a handsome marble font, presented by the late Dr. Collyer. There are attached
to this chapel two small endowments, one of £400, the other of £300, the interest of
which is chiefly appropriated for sermons on particular days, the overplus being dis-
tributed in bread, &c., for the poor. Dr. John Milner, a person of considerable literary
eminence, who was pastor of this chapel from 1741 until his decease in 1757, kept a school
in Meeting-House Lane, in what was long known as Goldsmith House, from the circum-
stance of the poet Goldsmith having been usher there between 1751 and 1754, prior
to his travels on the continent. The house was pulled down in 1876,
In Hanover Street, Peckham, enclosed by a wall and gates and screened by trees, is a
meeting-house raised by the Society of Friends in 1825.
Peceham CHArEL, in Hill Street, was erected as a projirietary chapel-of-ease to the
Church. It has a low tower and spire and an embattled parapet.
Camden Chapel, on the northern side of Peckham Eoad, near Eosemary Lane, was
foundel within a year or two after the decease, in 1795, of the Eev. Eoger Bentley, Vicar
of Camberwell, by those of his congregation who were dissatisfied with the preaching of
his successor, which was not of that " evangelical " character to which they had been
accustomed. It was intended to be consecrated as a chapel-of-ease ; but that design not
having been executed at the time, it was first opened as a place of worship in the Countess
of Huntingdon's connection. Afterwards, as Lysons states, " it was kept open as a free
conventicle, at which Dissenting ministers of all persuasions occasionally ofl3.ciate." * At
length, in 1830, it was licensed as an episcopal chapel, and under the ministry of the late
Eev. Hemy Melvill, B.D., an eloquent and popular preacher (afterwards Canon of St.
Paul's), it became necessary greatly to enlarge the building, and it now aff'ords accom-
modation for nearly 2,000 persons. In 1844 this chapel was duly consecrated by the
Bishop of "Winchester, a parochial district being assigned to it. The patronage is vested in
trustees.
Peckham House, in Peckham Eoad, is a large asylum licensed for the reception of
* Lysons, " Environs," Supplementary volume, p. 14.
CAMBERWELL. 21
lunatics, and has been for many years under the management and superintendence of the
family of Dr. Armstrong. Camberwell House, also in Pcckham Eoad, is another large
•private establishment devoted to the care and treatment of lunatics. It was formerly
known as Alfred House, and used as an academy ; and more recently it became the cradle
of the Eoyal Naval School, which has since been removed to New Cross.
At Peckham there are several National, Lancasterian, and Infant Schools. The British
Schools, in High Street, were formerly conducted in a building at the south end of
Paradise Street, the site of which was granted to trustees by Augustus Hughes, Esq., in
1813, for the term of five hundred years, at the annual rent of a fat capon on the 4th of
September.*
In Choumert Eoad, Peckham, are the Almshouses of the Girdlers' Company. They
were founded in 1609 by George Paljm, and were originally situated in Pesthouse Eow,
St. Luke's, but were removed hither in 1852.
The London, Chatham, and Dover Eailway (high-level line to the Crystal Palace), and
also the South London Eailway, have stations in Eye Lane.
Emmanuel Church. — This church (in High Street, Camberwell), a modern adaptation
of the Norman style of architecture, was erected from the designs of Mr. Thomas Bellamy.
It is a brick edifice, with dressings of stone. The cost, nearly £5,000, was defrayed by
the Commissioners for Building New Churches and Chapels, and the Metropolitan Churches
Fund, aided by the munificent donation of £1,900 from the lord of the manor. Sir Edward
Bowyer Smijth, Bart., who also contributed the land on which it stands, and a house and
garden adjoining for the minister. Sir Edward laid the first stone in 1840. The organ
was also given by the same gentleman, in whom the patronage was vested.
There are galleries on three sides of this church supported by cast-iron columns.
The altar is in a recess under a lofty semicii'cular arch, beneath which is a row of
smaller arches, supported by slender columns, containing the Lord's prayer, command-
ments, and creed. Within a semicircular projection at this end is a small robing-room.
The pulpit is square, and rests on a circular pillar. The font, a circular basin of neat
design, corresponds with other decorations of the church. The church will seat upwards
of 1,000 persons. The district attached to this church is an irregular tract in the north-
western part of Camberwell.
Schools were built in this parish in 1856, at a cost of £1,200.
BowxER House. — At a short distance from Emmanuel Church northwards stood the
old mansion of the Bowyers. Originally this house was much decorated. The walls and
* Allport's " Collections," &c. p. 220.
2 2 HISTORY OF SURREY.
ceiling of the liall were oruamented with carved and moulded work ; the chimney-pieces
were enriched with festoons of fruit and flowers in bold relief; and in the "embayed
windows " on the north side were the arms and quarterings of the family in stained
glass.* Over two of the firci^laces, within panels, were small pictures of some merit ; and
the south and east walls of the spacious apartment in the northern wing were, at a subse-
quent time, each adorned with a large painting ascribed to Sir James Thornhill. Evelyn,
in his "Diary," under the date September 1st, 1657, records a visit to Sir Edmund
Bowyer, "at his melancholy seate at Camberwell. He has a very pretty grove of oalces,"
he continues, "and hedges of yew in his garden, and a handsome row of tall elmes before
his court." The family of the Bowyers was long kept in remembrance here by the name
of Bowyer Lane, which has recently been changed to Wyndham Eoad.
Nearly adjoining to the above is the Mansion-House Chapel, built in 1797, by the
Eev. William Smith, for the Congregationalists, or Independents, and much enlarged in
1816 and 1826. It is sufficiently capacious for about 800 persons.
In Nelson Street, "Wyndham Eoad, is the British Eree School, first opened in 1813:
one of its earliest promoters was Captain James Wilson, who commanded the ship Duff
in the first missionary voyage to the South Sea Islands. The present school, erected
about 1832, comprises accommodation for about 200 boys and a residence for the
master.
In this neighbourhood, within a small house in Carpenter's Buildings, on Christmas
Eve, 1836, a cabinet-maker; named James Greenacre, murdered a Mrs. Brown, a widow
and laundress, whom he had engaged to marry on the following day. He was executed
in the Old Bailey, amid the yells and execrations of the populace.
St. Eatjl's Chuech, Heene Hill. — This edifice stands at the south-western extremity
of the manor of Dulwich, and is a handsome Gothic stone building, with a lofty spire. The
original church on this spot was consecrated in 18-14, and burned down in 186-5, in conse-
quence of faulty construction, the wall plate being allowed to pass through the flue. It was
rebuilt under the direction of Mr. G. E. Street, at a cost of £-5,200, exclusive of stained
glass by Messrs. Hardman of Bii-mingham, and Messrs. Clayton and Bell of London.
The vicarage-house Avas built in 1865, at a cost of above £2,300, £1,000 of which was
borrowed from Queen Anne's bounty.
The district attached to this church, which is what is called a consolidated district
chapeh'y, includes some part of the Dulwich manor, but was chiefly derived from the
* See Harl. MSS. 1046, No. 5. This forms part of a Visitation of tlie County of Surrey, taken for Camden in 1623 :
the remaining part is numhered 21 in the same volume.
CAMBERWELL. j,
parish of Lambctli, and is endowed with the vicarial tithe of that portion of the district
taken from the parish of Caniberwell.
The schools in this district were enlarged, and a teacher's liouse built, at a cost of
£1,200, in 18G6, and wore transferred to the Yicar of St. Jude's, Brixton, in 18G0, iu
Avhose district they are included, together with an endowment fund of £725, placed in the
hands of the Charity Commissioners.
Among the numerous pleasant villas and family mansions occupied or owned by
merchants and other persons of respectability on Heme Ilill is Casino House, the
property of "William Henry Stone, Esq., which has a handsome Doric portico, and is
surrounded by capacious grounds. Heme Hill extends from Denmark Hill to Dulwich,
and consists chiefly of private dwellings, mostly detached from each other, many of which,
from their elevated situation, command extensive and pleasant views. There are also a few
good shops in the Dulwich Eoad, and likewise a railway station on the London, Chatham,
and Dover line.
Among the entries of burials in the Dulwich Ecgister is the following : — " Jan. 2, 1803,
Samuel Matthews, aged C-1. This unfortunate person, who, notwithstanding a few
eccentricities which were usually ascribed to a slight mental derangement, universally
bore the character of a quiet, inoffensive, and strictly honest man, was found murdered iu
a cave of his own construction in Dulwich woods, which, with the exception of an
interval of a year and a half, he had been in the constant habit of occupying for the last
thirty years of his life, having no other place of residence."
Matthews (a jobbing gardener) was usually called the " Dulwich Hermit " from the
seclusion of his abode, which, with the permission of the master and warden of Dulwich,
he had contrived on the skirts of the College wood, adjoining Sydenham Common — near
the spot where now stands the north-west corner of the Crystal Palace — the loss of his
wife having determined him to become a recluse. Here, about 1798, he was assailed by
a gang of gipsies, by whom he was robbed and cruelly beaten, and left, with a broken
arm, apparently lifeless. During his cure, and for some time afterwards, he occupied
lodgings at Dulwich ; but growing weary of social intercourse, he returned to his cave,
in which he was found brutally miu'dcred on the 28th of December, 1802. From the
singularity of his dwelling-place lie had latterly been visited by many persons, and it was
thought that the supposition of his having saved money from the gifts occasionally made
to him led to his violent end. A large oaken stick, with a hook, found near the
spot, was conjectured to have been the instrument of his death, in the attempt to di-ag
him out of his cave, the opening of which was so small that it could only be entered head
2,). HISTORY OF SURREY.
foremost. An itinerant cliimnoy-sweeper, named Sprague, on whom great suspicion
rested, was tried for the murder, but acquitted from want of sufficient evidence.
Denmark, Champion, and Grove Hills were long celebrated for their extent of prospect
and rural character ; but their features have been greatly altered by the vast increase of
buildmg that has taken place in the immediate neighbourhood. On Denmark Hill, about
one himdred years ago, were two noted houses of public entertainment, called the Great
and Little Denmark Halls : the former has been converted into private dwellings, but the
latter, better known as the Fox-under-the-hill, still exists, at all events in name ; for
the old tavern, of which Hone, in his "Year Book" (1832), speaks as being '.'the Sunday
resort of many town-immured beings," has been demolished to give place to a building
more in accordance with the requirements of modern times.
Champion Lodge, the once celebrated residence of the De Crespignys (refugees from
Normandy in the reign of William III., and one of whom, Claude Champion de
Crespigny, D.C.L., was created a baronet in 1805), was pulled down about thirty years
ago. The park, of about 30 acres, has been since appropriated to building purposes, and
the range of dwellings called De Crespigny Terrace, the villas beyond it and on Champion
Hill, and many other houses have been erected on the grounds.
Camberwell Grove, so called from its former long avenue of trees extending from
Church Street to Grove Hill, at the present time possesses little or nothing of a woodland
character, being now occupied by modern buildings. On Grove Hill was the suburban
residence of Dr. John Coakley Lettsom, a member of the Society of Friends, and one of
the most successful physicians of his day. He was a native of Tortola, and having been
sent to England for instruction, became accidentally acquainted with the brothers
Fothergill, the one a celebrated preacher among the Quakers, the other a distinguished
member of the medical profession. Their advice determined his future studies, and he
acquired eminence as well from his scientific knowledge as from his general benevolence
and love of literature.
About 2\ acres on the eastern side of Grove Hill were taken by Dr. Lettsom, at
Christmas, 1779, on a building lease for ninety-nine years. Here, shortly after, he erected
a pleasant villa, and laid out the grounds in an ornamental way. The former was a square
edifice of brick, with low wings, the western wing being occupied by a library * and
museum, opening to a conservatory, wherein many exotics and other rare plants were
* Among the rarities in the library was a curious work by Jacob Christine Schaefer (Regensburg, commencuig in
1765), in seven volumes quarto, the leaves of which were all fabricated from numerous varieties of vegetable substances,
as well of wood as plants, by the ordinary paper-mills.
CAMBERWELL. j.
cultivated. The north or principal front Avas enriched by stuccoed tablets from classical
designs, and siu'mounted by balustrades, but the house was much altered by subsequent
possessors, and many years ago an adjoining house was built on the site of each wing.
Dr. Lettsom had frequently for his guests some of the more eminent of the literati of his
time; and Mam-ice, the historian and poet, retiu-ned his courtesy by his "Grove Ilill, a
Descriptive Poem," in quarto, illustrated by various engravings. Scott, also, the bard of
Amwell, inscribed a lesser poem to his hospitable friend, in which the views from the
temple (now destroyed) near the reservoir were graphically sketched, but the scenery
has since been remarkably changed by the accumulation of buildings.
The grounds attached to the villa comprised both la^\^l and meadow land, with
pleasure, kitchen, and succession gardens, and a shi-ubbery extending along the outskii'ts
of the estate, on its eastward side, down to the Fountain Cottage.* The whole was
ornamented with statuary and inscribed pedestals, in accordance with their respective
localities. Between the reservoir and the fountain which it supplied was the upper
Spring field, whereon, after Dr. Lettsom's decease in 1815, a row of houses, called Grove
Crescent, was built by Mr. William Whitton, a solicitor, who had acquired the property.
In front of the cottage, in the midst of a small sheet of water (or rather pond, from which
the clay had been dug for the original buildings on Grove Hill), Avas tire fountain, rising in
several stages from a rocky base, but this exists no longer.
On the lower Spring field, which also formed a part of the Lettsom estate, formerly
stood the Camberwell Collegiate School, an establishment founded on the principles of King's
* There is a traditionary report associated with these grounds which requires notice, tliough little deiDendenoe can be
placed on it— namely, that the spring or well which gave name to Camberwell was the same that supplies the reservoir
whence were derived the waters of Dr. Lettsom's fountain.
Another tradition — more easily disproved — is, that Camberwell Grove was the scene of the murder of his uncle by
the hero of LUlo's well-known tragedy, called The London Merchant, or the History of George Barnwell. Maurice, in his
" Grove Hill," thus alludes to it in the following apostrophe : — •
" Ye towering elms, on whose majestic brows
A hundred rolling years have shed their snows,
Admit me to your dark sequester'd reign,
To roam mth Contemplation's studious train !
Your haunts I seek, nor glow with other fires
Than those which Friendship's ardent warmth inspires ;
No savage murderer with a gleaming blade, —
No Bahnwell to pollute your sacred shade."
Now LUlo's drama was founded upon the ballad of " George Barnwell," which Bishop Percy states " was printed
at least as early as the middle of the seventeenth century." In that production Barnwell's uncle is described as a wealthy
grazier dwelUng at Ludlow, in a wood near which place the ballad also describes the murder to have been committed.
This " tragical narrative," says Bishop Percy, " seems to relate to a real fact ; but when it happened I have not been
able to discover." George Lillo was by trade a jeweller: his play was first acted in 1731. It met with considerable
success ; and in 1735 LLUo, who then resided at Kotherhithe, in this county, assigned it for ever to John Gray, a London
bookseller, for ^105.
VOL. III. E
26 HISTORY OF SURREY.
College, under the patronage of the Bishop of Winchester. The building was erected
in 1834, from the designs of Henry Eoberts, Esq., the architect of Fishmongers' Hall,
at an expense of about £3, GOO. It was entii-ely of a collegiate character, and somewhat
in the Tudor style. Its proximity to Dulwich College, however, seems to have impeded
its progress ; and in 1867 the school was closed, and the land sold for building purposes.
Grove Chapel, built from the designs of Mr. Koper in 1819, and opened in that year,
cost, with its fui-niture, &c., about £4,000, w^hich was defrayed by voluntary contributions :
small wings were added in 1839, and the chapel will now accommodate about 1,100 persons.
Its discipline is described as " Independent Episcopacy." The property is vested in trustees.
Aged Pilgeims' Asylum. — This building, situated in Westmoreland Place, arose
from the very useful institution called the Aged Pilgrims' Friend Society, established
at Camberwell in 1807 for the relief of the aged and infirm Christian poor (being
Protestants) of both sexes, and of every denomination. The Asylum was commenced in
1834, and completed in 1837, the freehold having been given by William Peacock, Esq.,
and the cost of erection defrayed by voluntary contributions. It consists of a quad-
rangular range of brick building, enclosing a small lawn or coiu-t, in which is a large
tomb of Portland stone, covering the vault wherein Mr. Peacock, who died in 1844, lies
buried. Its front is an embattled centre (with attached wings), flanked by octagonal
piers ending in turrets : they include a low-arched entrance gateway, the committee
and warden's rooms, and a chapel for divine service. Forty-two persons, chiefly aged
women, have apartments here, in addition to annual pensions of 10 guineas, 7 guineas,
and 5 guineas each. The society derives its support from donations and legacies,
collections at sermons, and life and annual subscriptions. A joint asylum in connection
with this institution was established at Highgate in 1871, and since its foimdation in
1807 the society has been the means of relieving upwards of 4,000 aged persons.
In Havil Street, at the back of the Aged Pilgrims' Asylum, is the Bethel Asylum,
established in 1838 by William Peacock, Esq., for twelve aged women. At the corner
of Havil Street, and occupying the site of old Havil House, is the Yestry Hall, which
was erected in 1873. It is a large edifice in the Eeuaissance style, and consists of a
centre and two wings.
At the southern end of Camberwell Eoad and western end of Church Street is an
oblong plot of ground, rather over an acre in extent, formerly known as Camberwell
Green, on which there used to be held an annual fair of three days' continuance, com-
mencing on the 18th of August. At Peckham also a fair of similar dui-ation was held
on the 21st and 22nd of August. The origm of these fairs is unknown : that of Peckham
CLAPHAM. 27
is traditionally said to liave been granted by King John, after liimtiug a stag hero, but
no charter bas been found. Camberwell fair was a source of great annoyance to the
inhabitants for many years, and complaints against its continuance were loud and
numerous; but it neyerthelcss survived till 1855, when it was hold here for the last
time. In that year the manorial rights in the Green were purchased by a subscription
raised among the principal inhabitants of the district, and the place was laid out in
grass-plots, planted with trees, shrubs, and flowers, and enclosed with iron railings, and
raised to the dignity of a " park."
On the northern side of Camberwell Park are the National and Green-coat Schools.
They were erected in 1871 on the site of a former school, founded in 1721 by Mr.
Henry Cornelison, " for the Christian Instruction of Poor Childi-en."
At the southern end of the Park is a large mansion of red brick, with stone quoins,
pediment, &c., which early in the last century was the seat of Sir William Bowyer, Znt.
In the Albany Eoad, which connects tlie High Street with the Old Ivent Eoad, is
Albany Chapel, which was enlarged and improved in 1835, and again in 1840. It is
handsomely fitted up and ornamented, and affords room for about 500 persons. Near it,
in Verona Place, is the Feiendlt Female Asylum, a small building erected in 1821, for
" aged persons who have seen better days."
Marlborough Chapel, on the north-east side of the Old Kent Eoad, had its origin in
the endeavour of the Home Missionary Society to provide religious instruction for the
neighbourhood. For that purpose a tent preaching station Avas established here on
vacant ground, and the interest it excited led to the erection of a chapel in 1827, at
the cost of about <£4:,000, which was defrayed by voluntary donations. It accommodates
about 1,000 persons. There are Sunday schools and other benevolent institutions in
connection with this and with Albany Chapel.
In 1846 a Literary and Scientific Institution was established at Camberwell, under
the direction of a committee of the neighbouring gentlemen.
On Ladland's (or Primrose) Hill are vestiges of an oblong camp, which has a double
line of ditch on the south side, and is supposed by Mr. Bray to have been origiDally
formed by the Eomans.
CLAPHAM.
The earliest mention of this place occui-s in the Eegister of Chertsey Abbey, from
which we learn that in the time of King Alfred a Saxon duke, named ^Ifrid, gave
" 30 hides of land in Clappeham to his wife Werburga, for life, with remainder to
E 2
28 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Ald'hdrytli his daughter, and her issue ; in default of which, to his next of kin by his
father, paying her half the value ; — the owner of the land to pay 200 pence yearly to the
monks of Chertsey." *
In the eleventh century Clapham was the seat of Osgod Clapa, a Danish nobleman,
at the marriage feast of whose daughter, Gytha, or Goda, with Tovi, another noble
Dane, Hardicanute, then King of England, being an invited guest, fell senseless to the
ground in a fit of intoxication, and expired shortly after. This event is stated to have
happened at Lambeth, which district appears to have anciently included the land now
constituting the parish of Clapham. -f
In the Doomsday Book the following account is given of this manor: — " Goisfridus
de Mannevile [Geoffrey de Mandeville] holds Clopeham, which Turbern held of
King Edward. It was then assessed at 10 hides; now at 3 hides. The arable land
amounts to 7 carucates. One carucate is in demesne ; and there are eight villains, and
three bordars, with 5 carucates. There are 5 acres of meadow. In the time of King
Edward, and subsequently, it was valued at £10 ; now at £7 10s. The men of the
hundred say that Geoffrey holds this manor unjustly, because it did not pertain to
the lands of Asgar. What Geoffrey gave out of this manor, in frauk-almoigne, is
valued at 20s."
The manor remained in the possession of the family of Mandeville at least until 1103,
when it belonged to Nigel de Mandeville. In the reign of Stephen it was held by
Pharamus de Bolonia, nephew of Maud, the wife of that king ; and his daughter and
heiress, Sibella de Tingria, married Ingelram de Fienes, who was killed at the battle
of Ascalon, in Palestiue, in 1190, having probably accompanied Eichard I. in the
crusade against Saladin. There is extant a charter of King Stephen, by which he
granted or restored to Sibella this manor, with all the rights and privileges pertaining
to it formerly enjoyed by her husband and her father ; and he also gave her per-
mission to marry whom she pleased. Her son, William de Fienes, is stated in the
Testa de Nevill to have held half a knight's fee in Clopham of Humphrey de Boun, or
Bohun, Earl of Hereford. He died in 1241, and in the same record it is mentioned that
Ingelram de Fienes (the son of William) held the half-fee in Clapham of the honoiu*
of Mandevill, then vested in Humphi-ey de Bohun. Manning observes that this earl
Avas the mesne lord of the manor between Fienes and the King ; he might have added
* Register Abli. de Certesy iu Bibl. Cott. VitelHiis, A. 13.
t Chron. Saxon, an. 1041. E. Hoveden, inter Script, post Bedam. It has been surmised that Clapham derived
its name from the above Osgod Clapa — " Clapa's Ham, or home ; " but the prior notice of Clappeham in the Chertsey
Register shows that conjecture to be erroneous.
CLAPHAM. 29
that Humphrey de Bohun, Earl of Ilereford and Essex, derived his claim to the
lordship thi'ough his descent from the Maudeville family, his mother, Maud, being the
daughter of Geoffrey Fitz-Piers, Earl of Essex, who held the office of Grand Justiciary
in the reign of John, and who inherited the earldom in right of his mother, Beatrix,
sister of Geoffrey de Mandeville, created Earl of Essex by Stephen, and may possibly
have held this manor until his lauds were confiscated for joining the party of the Empress
Maud : Clapham was then given to Pharamus de Bolonia, as above stated.
"William de Fienes, son of Ingelram, appears to have engaged in some legal proceed-
ings relative to this manor (perhaps claimed by the Earl of Ilereford) in 7 Edward I.*
He died seized of this estate in 1302 or 1303 ; and an inquisition being taken on that
occasion, it was found that he had held the manor of Clapham in capitc of the Earl of
Hereford and Essex by the service of suit of court at Hereford, and Blaunch-apeltouo in
London, and that he had enfeoffed Thomas Eomeyn, and Julian his wife, and the heirs
of Thomas, of this manor. But he left a son and heii-, John de Eienes, and reserved the
mesne lordsliip to his own family, for the manor was held of the representatives of Fienes
in socage in Elizabeth. f
Thomas Eomayne had a grant of free-wan-en here in 3 Edward II. His wife
Juliana died in 1326, seized of the manor of Clapham, a capital messuage, 254.^ acres
of arable land, 20 of meadow, 140 of underwood, and 6 of pasture ; rents of assize of
free tenants and bondmen, £9 lis. 9|d. ; thi-ee cocks and six hens ; the whole valued at
£28 15s. 7|d. She left two daughters coheiresses, one of whom, Margaret, married
William de "Weston, of Albury, who had this estate in right of his wife ; and it belonged
to their descendants in the time of Henry YI. In 16 Henry VI. Eobert de "Weston
conveyed the manor to "William "Wetenhall, citizen of London, Margaret his wife, John
Olton, clerk, and others, and two years after ratified a deed of Thomas Eomayne as lord
of the manor.
Eichard Gower, Esq., died seized of this manor in 1472 ; but John Gower, supposed
to have been his son, having been killed in the battle of Tewkesbury, fighting for
Henry YL, he was attaiuted, and the estate escheated to the Crown. The manor was
probably then granted by Edward lY. to George Ireland, and Margaret his wife ; for it
appears from an inquisition taken in 13 Edward lY. that Ireland died seized of it iu the
preceding month, leaving a son and heii-, Thomas, aged twelve. In 1 Henry YIL, Ann
Pympe, cousin and heiress of John Gower, late of Clapham, preferred a petition to Parlia-
* Placit. Coron. at Guildford, 7 Edw. I. in the Chapter-liou e at Westmia tsr,
+ See Cole s " Escheats," HarL MSS. No. 758.
30 . HISTORY OF SURREY.
meut, praying a reversal of his attainder, wliicli was granted. Nothing further appears
relative to the descent of this manor until 15 Elizabeth, when William Chelsham, mercer,
of London, is stated to have died seized of this estate, which ho left to his son, of the same
name. In 1580, Sir Thomas Cokayno, Lord Mayor of London, conveyed it to Philip
Okeover and Eichai'd Crompton, supposed to have been trustees for Bartholomew Gierke,
Dean of the Arches, who held it at the time of his death in 1589. Francis, his son and
heir, then a minor, was lord of the manor in 1604, when he presented to the living : he
appears to have sold the manor, in or before 1015, to John Haulsey, gent., in whom the
presentation was then vested.
Not long after the period just mentioned the estate was purchased by Dr. Henry
Atkins, physician to James I., for £6,000, said to have been a gift from the King for his
services in attending Prince Charles (afterwards Charles I.) when dangerously ill of a
fever in Scotland.* His son and heir. Sir Henry Atkins, Knt., had a son named Eichard,
created a baronet by Charles II. in 1662. Sir Eichard Atkins, Bart., who succeeded to
the title and estate on the decease of his elder brother, Sir Henry, a minor, in 1742, died
without issue in 1756, when this manor came into the possession of his sister Penelope,
wife of George Pitt, Esq., created Baron Eivers in 1776. The rental of her estate, in
consequence of the improvements at Clapham before noticed, is stated by Lysons, in 1792,
to have increased within the preceding nineteen years from £1,335 to £2,031 per annum.
After her decease the property reverted to the Atkins family, of whom William Atkins-
Bowyer, lord of the manor, died at Paris in 1844, when his son, Hemy Atkins-Bowyer,
Esq., succeeded to the estate. On his death in 1871, it passed to his eldest son, Hemy
Atkins-Bowyer, Esq., the present owner. The old manor-house, supposed by Lysons to
have been built by Bartholomew Clerke, Dean of the Arches in Queen Elizabeth's reign,
stood at the corner of Manor Street, and was latterly occupied as a ladies' boarding-
school.
William de Breuse died seized of two knights' fees at Clapham in 1291, as appears
from the Close Eolls of 19 Edward I. It is suj)posed that the land held by Breuse
constituted the estate at this place which in the seventeenth century belonged to Sir
Dennis Gauden, who built a sumptuous mansion here for his brother. Dr. John Gauden,
Bishop of Exeter, under the expectancy of his further promotion to Winchester, and
making this the episcopal palaee.t That prelate was one of the adherents of Charles I.,
* In the Baronetage published in 1741 it is stated that Dr. Atkina was offered the first patent of baronetcy on the
institution of the order, and that he modestly refused it.
+ ViAe. Aubrey's " Surrej'-," vol. i. p. 14, and Pepys's " Diary," vol. ii. p. 79. Dennis Gauden, most likely by his
brother's interest, had obtained the situation of Victualler to the Navy. He was Sheriff of London in 1667 ; and when
CLAPHA3f. 3,
and is said to have been tlio antlior of tlie work entitled "ElKflN BASIAIKH,"
attributed to tlio monarch, the question as to the authorship of -which has been the
subject of much literary controversy. Toland, in his "Amyntor, or Defence of Milton,"
relates that Dr. Gauden, after the Eestoration, was promised the bishopric of Winchester,
but after having been raised to the see of Exeter in 1660 he was translated to Worcester
in 1661, and died in the following year. Sir Dennis Gauden, who became a resident in
his late brother's house (where he had an extensive library and other valuable collections),
died at Clapham, and was buried there in 168S. The mansion and estate were afterwards
purchased by William Hewer, Esq., a Commissioner of the IS'avy, the faithful clerk and
assistant of Mr. Secretary Pepys (author of the "Diary"), who died at this house in
1703.* Mr. Hewer's own decease occurred here in 1715, and he was buried in the old
church. He bequeathed the property to a relation. Hewer Edgeley, Esq., who assumed
the name of Hewer, and whose widow continued in possession for some time after liis
death. The house was pulled down about 1700, aud the estate, which consisted of nearly
133 acres, di^dded among several proprietors. Its rental, according to Lysons, was nearly
as large as that of the manorial estate.
Clapham parish is bounded on the north-west and west by that of Battersea, on
the north by Lambeth, and on the south by Streatham. The limits of the parish where
it adjoins Battersea have been the subject of a legal contest, that part of Clapham Common
extending to Battersea Eise being claimed by both parishes. In 1716 the inhabitants of
Battersea enclosed with a ditch and bank the tract of land in question, and the people
of Clapham levelled the bank and filled up the ditch, in consequence of which, Hemy,
Yiscount St. John, then lord of the manor of Battersea, brought an action for trespass
against those who were engaged in this Avork, or their employers, which was tried at the
assizes at Kingston in 1718, when the plaintiff was non-suited. The men of Battersea,
however, persevered in supporting their claim by including the disputed ground in their
parochial perambulations, f
The number of acres in this parish, as estimated under the Tithe Commutation Act, is
1,170, of which 40 acres were then arable land, 473 meadow, &c., 202 common, 19 market
the " first stone of the first pillar " of the Royal Exchange -n-as laid by Charles II. in that year, he Avas lionourea with
knighthood by the King.
* In Evelyn's " Diary," under the date Sept. 22nd, 1700, is this passage :— " I went to ^•isite Mr.' Pepys at Clapham,
where he has a very nohle and wonderfully-well furnished house, especially with India and Chinese curiosities. The
offices and gardens well accommodated for pleasure and retirement." In Bagford's Letter to Heame (dated Feb. 1,
1714-15), printed in the first vo'liune of Leland's " Collectanea," p. 59, it is stated that many Roman antiquities were found
in some fields belonging to Mr. Hewer by labourers digging for gravel.
t Lysons, " Environs of London," vol. \i. Supplement, p. 18.
32 HISTORF OF SURREF.
gardens, 360 buildings with gardens, and 74 roads. Since that computation was made
there has been a great increase of buildings. The soil in general is light and gravelly,
but on the south and south-east is a stiff clay of great dejath.
Clapham Common. — Until after the middle of the last ceutmy this common, which
comprises an area of 220 acres, was an almost impassable marsh; but about 1760, through
the influence and exertions of Christopher Baldwin, Esq., a Surrey magistrate, who had
resided many years near the spot, the land was drained, trees of various species planted,
and the roads crossing it repaired.* The cost of these improvements was defrayed by a
subscription raised among the neighbouring inhabitants : similar means have been since
employed to keep the common in good order. In 1835 and 1836 leases of the manorial
rights over the entire common were obtained for twelve years — that part in Clapham
parish at an annual rent of £45, and that in Battersea parish at a rent of <£20. By means
of donations and subscriptions -j* the trustees (to whom the leases had been granted) were
enabled to restore the drainage and water-courses ; cleanse out the three principal ponds,
namely, the Island pond, the Long-boat pond, and the Mound pond ; improve the
plantations ; and generally to execute whatever other works were necessary to give the
common that attractive park-like character and appearance which it now possesses. This
extensive tract is nearly surrounded by well-built villas and other dwellings, the residences
of merchants and gentlemen, to whom its short distance from the busy haunts of the metro-
polis renders it of convenient and easy access. The airy cheerfulness of this spot greatly
tends to the salubrity of the neighbourhood, and the common is at all times available for
recreation. In 1874 the Enclosure Commissioners for England and Wales, under the
Metropolitan Commons Act, 18G9, and Metropolitan Commons Amendment Act, 1869,
certified a scheme for placing Clapham Common under the control of the Local Board.
The common was accordingly purchased for the sum of £17,000, and the Metropolitan
Board of Works at once commenced improving its appearance by the planting of young
trees, and the formation of new footpaths of an ornamental style.
Cavendish House, on the east side of the common, was for a long period the
residence of that eminent philosophical chemist, the Hon. Henry Cavendish, the discoverer
of hydrogen gas, and of the composition of water. At the northern extremity of the
* Lysons, " Environs," vol. i. p. 159, 1792. In consequence of the improvements thus effected, tlie value of the
surrounding lands was greatly augmented, and Mr. Baldwin himself, a few yeai-s before Lysons wrote, sold 14 acres of
land near his own residence for the sum of £5,000. In 1810 Mr. Robert Thornton sold his land here at the rate of £500
per acre. (Manning and Bray, " SiuTey," vol. iii. p. 359.)
+ Much to the honour' of Earl Spencer (the lord of Battersea) and Henry Bowyer, Esq. (the lord of Clapham), their
names were registered in the list of subscribers, the former subscribing £20 annually (the amount of his rent), and the
latter £10 lOs.
CLAPIIAM. 3,
common, a few doors south of the Plough Inn, on the site now oocujned by the Pioman
Catholic Eedemptorist church of Our Lady of Victory, stood a mansion once tenanted by
Zachary Maeaulay — " the cradle of the Bible Society," as ilr. (i. 0. Trevelyan stylos it
in his " Life of Lord Maeaulay ; " and here the great historian spent a considerable part
of his chddhood. The house occupied by the Eedemptorist fathers was formerly the
residence of Lord Teignmouth, and within its walls the Bible Society is said to have been
founded.
Clapham Park. — This park may be described as a new locality, deriving its origin
from the creative genius of the late Mr. Thomas Cubitt, the eminent architect and
builder. Its situation to the south-east of Clapham, on the rising ground between that
place and Brixton, renders it more airy than the former, while it is less exposed to the
wind than the latter. The site, which comprises about 250 acres, ^vas formerly called
Bleak Hill Farm, and in 1824 was taken of William Atkins-Bowyer, Esq. (lord of Clapham
manor, and owner of much freehold property in the neighbourhood), by Mr. Cubitt, Avho
in the course of a few years entirely changed the character of this previously secluded
tract. The ground was planted with trees and ornamental shrubs, variously subdivided
for the erection of detached villas, &c., and new and wide roads, extending to the length
of about four miles, were formed. Clapham Park was long a favourite place of resi-
dence for ftmiilics of respectability and affluence ; but a newer and perhaps more attrac-
tive quarter has since sprung up in " The Cedars," on the opposite side of Clapham
Common.
Adyowson, &c. — In the Yalor of 20 Edward I. this benefice, a rectory in the deanery
of Southwark, is rated at 14 marks. It was then charged with a pension of 20s. to
the priory of Merton, to which foundation the advowson had probably been given by
Pharamus de Bolonia, either in the reign of Stephen or of Henry II. In the King's books
it is valued at £8, paying 7s. 7d. for procurations, and 2s. l|d. for synodals. In 3G
Henry VIII. the advowson was granted by the Crown to Sir Thomas Arundel and Henry
Saunders, but in the reign of James I. it was conveyed to the Atkins fiunily, and has
since descended with the manor. The commuted rent-charge is £500, inclusive of
£11 Gs. for 11 acres of glebe, consisting of houses and gardens. The Pegistcrs commence
in 1552, and are nearly perfect. The following instances of longevity occur among the
entries in the early part of the present century: — Sarah, widow of Edward Ashby,
aged one hundred years, buried May 12, 1801 ; Priscilla Mee, spinster, aged ninety-
two, buried March 15, 1804 ; and Catherine Eobcrts, aged ninety-nine, buried Decem-
ber 14, 1804.
VOL. III. P
34 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Rectors of Clapham in and since 1800 : —
l.—Jo/m Venn, M.A. Instituted in 1792.*
2.— William Bealiri/, D.D., F.A.S. Instituted in 1813.
3. — William Henri/ Wentworth Atltins-Bowijer. Instituted in 1817.
4. — Fitzivilliam Wen/ivorth Athins-Boivjjcr, M.A. Instituted in 1872.
The old churclL at Clapham, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, stood on the spot now
occupied by St. Paul's Church, on commanding ground between Lark Hall Lane and the
"Wandsworth Eoad. It appears to have originally consisted of nave and chancel only.
An additional chapel (afterwards the monumental chapel of the Athins family) was
attached to the north-west side in 1500 ; and a corresponding one, called Walter Frost's
Chapel, was built on the south-west side about 1G74 ; these formed a western transept.
A north aisle was added, about 1715, by Hewer E. Hewer, Esq., and a south aisle at
a subsequent time by the parishioners. Becoming much dilapidated, and altogether
inadequate for the increased population, an Act of Parliament was obtained in 1774
for the erection of a new church on the common. On the completion of the latter
the old building was pulled down, except the north aisle, which was left standing for
the performance of the burial service until the new church of St. Paul was built.
In the old church were several sepulchral memorials of considerable interest, which,
* This gentleman was tlie son of tlie Hev. Henry Venn, curate of Clai^ham, where he was horn in 1759. His lather
having removed to Huddersfield, in Yorkshire, he received the earlier part of his education in a school at Leeds, and was
afterwards a pnpU at other schools in the same county, and at Leicester. He next hecame a student at Sidney Sussex
College, Cambridge, where he took the degree of B.A. in 1781. He was ordained deacon in 1782, and officiated as curate
to his father ; and having obtained the order of priesthood in 1783, he was presented to the living of Little Dereham, in
Norfolk. In 1792 he succeeded Sir James Stonehouse as Eector of Clapham ; and at that place he principally resided
from the beginning of 1793 until his decease in 1813. It does not appear that he published any work, except a Selection
of Psalms and Hymns to be used in his parish church ; but three volumes of Sermons from his manuscripts issued from
the press after his death. The elder Mr. Venn was a man of eminence among those styled Evangelical clergymen ;
and he was the author of a popular work entitled " The Complete Duty of Man."
Among other rectors of Clapham of some note in literatiu'e was Nicholas Brady, D.D., instituted in 1705-6, on the
presentation of Lady Atkius ; and he held the living, together with that of Eichmond, until his decease in 1726. He
was a native of Bandon, in Ireland, and a lineal descendant of the first Protestant Bishop of Meath. He was born in
1659, and received his education partly at Christ Church, Oxford, and partly at Trinity College, Dublin, where he took
the degree of B.A., and at a subseqiient period was made D.D. He is said to have been a zealous promoter of the
Revolution in 1688, which probably contributed to hLs future ecclesiastical preferment ; for having removed to England,
he was made Chaplain to the King and Queen, William and Mary, and had other appointments. Dr. Brady was the
author of a tragedy, a translation of the ^neid of Virgil, and several volumes of Sermons ; but his only literary produc-
tion which has preserved his memory from oblivion is the " New Version of the Psabns," which he executed in concert
with Nahum Tate, the poet laureate.
His successor, the Rev. Anthony Blackwall, master of the Grammar School at Market Bosworth, in Leicestershire,
was instituted to this living in 1726, on the gift of Sir Henry Atkins, his former pupil. He was then advanced in age, and it
is said, in Nichols's " Anecdotes of Bosvyer," that having been on this occasion somewhat abruptly questioned by a chaplain
who was much his junior as to Ids literary attainments, he replied witli some indignation, " Boy, I have forgotten more than
ever you knew ! " Having resigned his rectory in 1729, he retired to Market Bosworth, and died at his school there in 1730.
1908517
CLAPHAM. 35
though cared for at fii-st, were eveutiially ruthlesslj' dcstroj-cd. Amoug them Avas the
altar tomb of Sir Eichard Atkins, Knt. and Earl.,* and his lady, Rebecca, daughter of
Sir Edmund Wright, reiDresented by recumbent figures of white marble. They were
buried in a vault in the chiirchyard, together with Henry, their eldest son, and Rebecca
and Annabella, their first and second daughters, to whose memory a mural monument
was erected against the east wall of the Atkins Chapel. The latter were represented by
sculptured figm-es, kneeling under an arch supported by Corinthian columns of white
marble ; and beneath each was an inscription, recording the name, age, &c., together with
an epitaph in verse of a highly eulogistic description, as a specimen of which, that on
Annabella, the eldest daughter, who died in 1G70, in her nineteenth year, is subjoined : —
" Could Teares have sav'J Iier precious Life, noe douLt,
A gen'ral Deluge had been poured out ;
Or could the skill of all the Learned have
Prevailed hut to reprieve her from the Grave,
Mankind had ne'er permitted soe much Worth
(To theyre great Loss), to vanish from the Earth.
She dyed young ; — not that she really could
Be Weary yet so soon of doeing Good ;
But fit for Heaven she without pretence
Jlight justly scorn a meaner Residence." t
Another monument, of an architectural kind and of the Corinthian order, recorded
in Latin verse the memory of Bartholomew Clcrke, Dean of the Arches, and lord of
Clapham (who died in 1589), and Eleanor Ilaselrigge, his wife: they Avcre represented,
together with their son, by figures kneeling within arched recesses ; above the cornice
was a large shield, blazoned with the arms and quarterings of their respective families.
Near the above were inscribed tablets in memory of Martin Lister, M.D., F.E.S., and
He obtained considerable reimtation as a critic and classical scholar, founded chiefly on a work entitled " The Sacred
Classics illustrated and defended," of which a Latin translation was published at Leipsio in 1736. Among the pupils
of Mr. Blackwall whose attainments were creditable to his talents as a teacher was Richard Dawes, the author of
" Miscellanea Critica."
* Sir Richard Atkins, grandson of Dr. Atkins, the purchaser of this manor, died in 1689. His tomb was enclosed by
an iron railing, decorated with heraldic insignia of his family and its alliances, and by pennons displaying their various
crests. His father. Sir Henry Atkins, and his son. Sir Richard, were also conmiemorated here. For numerous inscrip-
tions that were in the old church and church3'ard the inquirer is referred to Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. iii. pp.
364 — 369. In Rawlinson's Notes on Aubrey, in tlie Bodleian Library, the subjoined epigram is stated to have been cut on
a gravestone here : —
" From Duns secure, if Creditors should come.
For once a Debtor may be found at home.
By Death arrested, and in Gaol here laid.
The first and last, the only Debt he paid."
+ The above monument was entirely destroyed, and the effigies themselves consigned to sepulture in one of
the vaults when the new chapel was built. Though in a bad taste in regard to dress, — the son, who died at the age of
twenty-four- in 1677, being represented in a Roman dress, ^rith a flowing peruke, and the daughters, in gOTvna with full
sleeves and stiff bodices — they were finely wrought, and deserved preservation aboveground.
f2
35 HISTORY OF SURREY.
his Avife Hannah. lie died in 1711-12, and left £o to. the parish for a coramcmoration
sermon for his wife, and for other charitable purposes.*
' Some little deference was shown to the monument of William Hewer, Esq., " Treasurer
for Tangier to Charles II., and Commissioner of the Navy to James II.," which, removed
from the interior of the old church, has been affixed against the exterior south wall of
the chapel. It exhibits an expressive marble bust, iii alto-relievo, of the deceased ofiioer,
who died in 1715. Below it. is a long inscription to his memory in Latin, but now
scarcely to be read.
St. Paul's CnrRCii is a uniform edifice of brick, erected, as stated above, in 1814, on
the site of the old parish church of Clapham. It was built from the designs of
Mr. C. Edmonds, architect, at a cost of about £5,000. At the west end are a low
entrance portico and two side doors, and on the roof a bell turret, surmounted by a small
cupola and vane. In the vestry-room are preserved two brasses which were in the old
church; one of these records the name of ♦ ffiliU'm'S 'CTablccr,' ob. 1401, and the other
that of " Guliclmus Glanvill, Gencrosus," an Exeter merchant, who died of a fever
arising from fatigue on his route to London in 1647.
Among the various memorials in this chapel is a handsome tablet against the south
wall for Mary, wife of Samuel Morton Peto, Esq., who died in 1842 ; and at the cast
end of the south gallery a beautiful monument executed by C'hantrey, in white marble,
exhibiting a mourning female leaning on a sarcophagus, upon which is a sepulchral urn.
This was erected by his widow to the memory of John Broadly "Wilson, Esq., of Clapham.,
who died in 1835. He was distinguished for his benevolence and numerous charities, "for
the extension of religion and relief of his distressed fellow-creatures," and, as the
inscription states, "he knew uo party, but delighted in doing good to all." This
chapel, which affords accommodation for 750 persons (including the free seats), was first
opened in 1815.
In the old burial-ground attached to this church, and considerably enlarged (no
* Dr. Lister was a native of Eadcliffe, in Buckinghamsliire, Lut descended of a Yorksliiie family -n-hich had obtained
considerable medical reputation ; he was brought up under his great-uncle, Sir Martin Lister, Physician in Ordinary to
Charles I. After a collegiate education, and travelling in France for improvement, he commenced practice at York, but
afterwards removed to London, having acciuired much eminence in his profession. He devoted his leisure to researches
in natural history and archaeology, but more especially to the study of conchology. Besides other works on that subject,
he published in 168.5, under the title of " Synopsis Conchyliorum," a splendid collection of very accurate engravings
(forming two volumes folio), representing all the shells known in his time, the drawings for which were made by his
two daughters, Susannah and Anne. In 1698 Dr. Lister accompanied the Earl of Portland in his embassy to the
court of France ; and on his return he published the result of his observations, under the title of " A Journey to Paris,"
which was satirized, or rather burlesqued, by Dr. Wm. King, a contemporary Tory partisan, in a tract called " A
Journey to London.'' In 1709 he was appointed Physician to Queen Anne, and, as such, continued until his decease
in 1712.
interments being permitted in or near the present fabric), arc numerous tombs, some
mncli ornamented, and other inscribed memorials for respectable individuals and
families of tbis parish, but of which our limits will not admit any enumeration. Among
them is the following plaintive epitaph in memory of John Hermon Jerdenson Meger, a
native of Porsground, in Norway, who died in 1812 : —
Far from his Country ami his much-lov'd home,
A Stranger rests beneath this humble tomb :
4 Yet soon, or Seas, or Space, or Death, no more,
Shall sever from the Friends we lov'd before.
Thou too, 0 Reader, art a Stranger here :
Heav'n is thy home ; Oh ! seek thy dwelUng there.
Claphah Chuech was built in 1775-G, and is dedicated to the Holy Trinity.
It occupies a pleasant site on the north-west side of the common, and was consecrated
and opened for divine service by Dr. Hurd, Bishop of Lichfield and Coventry, in 1776.
The architect was Mr. Oouse, and the cost of its erection about £11,000. It is con-
structed of brick with stone dressings, but has little architectural ornament, the whole
being of the plain substantial character that pervades the ecclesiastical structures raised
in the early part of the reign of George III. At the west end is a long portico, erected
in 1812, under which are the principal entrances. At this end also is a square clock
tower, rising above the roof, surmounted by an octagonal story, crowned by a cupola
and small turret. The interior, 90 feet in length and GO feet in breadth, contains
accommodation for about 1,400 persons, and is chiefly fitted up with foreign oak. On
each side, and at the west end, is a large gallery, the latter containing a fine-toned
organ, much enlarged by Bishop in 1825. In a semicircular recess at the cast end is
the communion-table, and above it are the Lord's prayer, creed, and commandments in
ornamental compartments. The large east window is enriched with stained glass,
executed by George Pricket of Tork.
In the gallery on the north side, at the east end, is a handsome tablet, by "Westmacott,
in memory of John Thornton, Esq., a principal contributor to the building of the church,
and who died in 1790. Against the wall of the north aisle, beneath the gallery, are
several tablets. One is thus inscribed : —
Near tlds spot are deposited the remains of John Gillies, LL.D. F.R.S. F.A.S., member of several Literary
and Scientific Institutions at home and abroad. Historiographer to his Majesty for Scotland, and author of
many works distinguished by sound learning and philosophical research. In youth he was an ardent and
indefatigable student : his manhood was devoted to the useful and honourable application of liis acquirements.
A life.©f the strictest integrity and most active benevolence was closed in retirement, blessed with calm piety
and firm faith in the atonement and mediation of his Redeemer. He died at Clapham, on the 15th of February,
1836, in the 90th year of his age.
38 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Another memorial records the scriptural kno'n'lcdgo and general virtues of the Eev.
John Venn, M.A., " for twenty years rector of this parish," who died in 1813.
In the south aisle is a monument exhibiting a medallion of Bishop Jebb, and thus
inscribed : —
Tlie Remains of John Jebb, tlio Learned, the Wise, the Good, Bishoi) of Limerick, are deposited in the
tomb of the Tliorntons, by permission of a Family to which he was united by a bond of no common Friendship,
lie died on the 9th day of November, 1833, in the 59th year of his age.
The hist Memorial of a Brother's Love.
St. John's Church. — The great increase of the population in the northern part of the
parish led to the building of this church, which stands on the western side of the Clapham
Eoad, and it Avas consecrated for divine service in 1842, The funds were party supplied
by the Society for the Erection of New Churches, but chiefly by voluntary contributions of
the neighbouring inhabitants. It is constructed of white brick with stone dressings,
and has an entrance portico of stone, formed by six columns of the Ionic order supporting
a pediment, the apex of which is surmounted by a cross. On each side of tlie church are
five large windows encased in stone. From the absence of either tower, steeple, or spire,
it has more the appearance of a Grecian temple than a Christian church. The interior is
plain,
St. Saviour's Church, in Cedars Eoad, was built in 1864, from the designs of Mr.
J. Knowles, and at the cost of the Eev. W. Bowyer. It is a large, cruciform structure,
with a central tower surmounted with pinnacles. The windows are enriched with stained
glass by Messrs. Clayton and Bell, This church remained imconsecrated down to 1873,
in consequence of the bishop of the diocese objecting to the position of a monument of
Mr, Bowyer, which had been placed under the tower, in front of the altar-rails. The
monument, with its recumbent effigy, has been removed to the north transept.
St. James's Chapel. — This is an episcopal chapel, situated on Park Hill, about half a
mile from Clapham Common, It was built from the designs of Lewis Vnlliamy, Esq., the
entire cost of its erection being defrayed by voluntary contributions ; and it was first
opened for divine service in 1829. From being constructed of light-coloured brick with
stone dressings, it has, at a little distance, all the appearance of stone. It is an excellent
composition in the decorated branch of the pointed style. The west front is divided into
three compartments by graduated buttresses with enriched pinnacles ; and the gable end of
the roof is surmounted by a clock and bell tm-ret in three stages, finishing in a spire and
cross, much ornamented. In the central compartment of this front, which is of greater
width than the side divisions, is a handsome window of three lights, with rich tracery in
the heading : in the side divisions are smaller windows of two lights each. Below these
are door^vays ; but the principal access is by a projecting porcli in the centre, separated
by small buttresses into three entrances, the central one being surmounted by a gable and
cross. There arc five windows of two lights between buttresses on each side, and an
eastern window corresponding with that over the west porch.
The interior has a light and impressive effect. The roof, of the gable form, is crossed
by beams supported by open-framed and carved truss-work springing from central brackets
between each window. The communion-table is of stone, and above it, enclosed by Gotliic
panelling, are the Lord's prayer, creed, and commandments. Some modern stained glass
is introduced iu the heading of the east window, and likewise fills the small cruciform
window, near the apex of the eastern gable wall. The patronage is vested in trustees.
This church was restored iu 1871. New schools were erected iu this parish in 18-30, at a
cost of £1,320.
All Saints' was built iu 18-58, at a cost of £1,100. The school and school-house
were built in 180-1.
St. Stephen's was erected in 18G7, at a cost of £5,700.
Schools. — In 1648 a parochial school was erected near the middle of the old town of
Clapham, on ground given by Eobert Atkins, Esq., lord of the manor. This was rebuilt
in 1781, aud added to in 1809 : a schoolroom on an extensive scale was erected near the
common in 1838, exclusively for boys. With these are connected six schools for infants,
and several Sunday schools, as well as daily and evening schools. They are all in union
with the Established Church, and, except an endowment of £8 per annum, are supported by
voluntary contributions.* A commercial school for boys, and a middle school for girls,
were also instituted under the supcriutcndence of the clergy. A British and Foreign
school was also established.
'Near St. John's Church, at Clapham Eise, is the British Orphan Asylum, founded iu
1827. This is an extensive pile of brick building, commodiously fitted up for the reception,
maintenance, and religious and industrial education of the destitute orphans of both sexes,
whose parents have moved in the middle and respectable classes of society. The children
of the incurably paralytic, insane, or blind, being virtually orphans, are likewise received
into this charity, which is wholly supported by voluntary subscriptions.
There are several Dissenting chapels in this parish. An Independent congregation was
* Tlie endo-^vment mentioned above is composed of tlie two sums of £2 arising from a gift made liy Francis Bridges
and his wik in 1647, and of £6 bequeathed by William Hewer, Esq., in 1715, payable from liis estate at Clapham.
There are several small charities connected with tliis parish for giving bread, coals, &c., to the ]ioor; and a legacy of £700
in 3 per cent. Consols was left by Mrs. Cook (widow of Captain Cook, the celebrated circumnavigator), who died in 1835,
the interest to be disposed of by the rector, twice a year, to six poor widows.
^o HISTORY OF SURREY.
established at Clapliam about the middle of the seventeenth century by Wra. Bridge, a
member of the Assembly of Divines at Westminster, and one of the most eminent Non-
conformists of the time. He had several successors of some celebrity, among vs^hom were
the learned Moses Lowman and Dr. Philip Furneaux. During the latter's pastorship the
meeting-house in Clapham old town was erected about 17G9.* It is an old-fashioned
brick building, substantially fitted up. There are a lower gallery, extending along three
sides of the chapel, and upper galleries for the Sunday school of this society : in the
western gallery is a small full-toned organ.
On the western side of Clapham Common is a meeting-house for the General Baptists,
established in 1794, and endowed with 30 guineas per annum, and the interest of
£2,000, both given by Abraham Atkins, Esq.f It is built in the lancet style of pointed
architectm-e, and seats about 500 persons. The Congregational chapel in Grafton Square,
built in 1872, is one of the most commodious and elegant edifices of the kind in London.
There are also an Anabaptist chapel in Courland Grove ; a Weslcyan chapel in Clifton
Street, near Lark Hall ; and an Independent chapel in Acre Lane.
Near the north-eastern angle of the common stands the Eoman Catholic Eedemptorist
Church of Our Lady of Victory, built in 1819. This is remarkable for its lofty and
elegant stone spii-e, and its fine peal of bells.
Local Occurrences. — In 1603 this parish was visited by the plague: among its
victims were the Eev. Edw. Couchman (then rector), his wife, their three children, and
the maidservant, all of whom died in the course of thi-ee days. The first stage-coach,
travelling once daily between Clapham and Gracechurch Street, was established in 1690
by John Day and John Bundy. Clapham now has its railway stations, besides a constant
stream of omnibuses and tram-cars to almost all parts of the metropolis.
* The Rev. Moses Lowman, wlio distinguished himself by his -vvritings on ecclesiastical history and antiquities, was
bom in 1680. He at first studied the law at the Middle Temple, hut afterwards went to Holland, and became a student
of divinity in the Universities of Utrecht and Leyden. On returning in 1710, he settled at Clapham, and was pastor of the
chapel nearly forty years. He died in 1Y52. Mr. Lowman wrote on the Ci-^'il Government and Religious Rites of the
Hebrews, but is cliiefly known as the author of " A Paraphrase and Notes on the Revelation of St. John," wliich has
been eulogized by Dr. Doddridge, Bishop Toniline, and other divines, and repeatedly printed.
Dr. Pliilip Furneaux succeeded as pastor of this congregation in 1752. He was a native of Totnes, in Devonshire,
and had been assistant minister at a chapel in St. Thomas's Street, Southwark, previously to his settlement at Clapham.
He was highly esteemed for the respectability of his private character, and for his talents as a preacher of the gospel ; but
after he had held the ministerial ofiice about twenty-three years, an attack of insanity — said to have been hereditary in
his family, and from which he never recovered — rendered him incapable of attending to his pastoral duties, and untU
his death in 1783 he was supported by the liberal subscriptions of his friends. Dr. Fumeaux's reputation as an author
was founded on his " Letters to Judge Blackstone concerning his Exposition of the Act of Toleration, &c., in his Com-
mentaries on the Laws of England," 1770, 8vo. He likewise published "An Essay on Toleration," and several
sermons.
+ Lysons, " En\-irons," Supplement, p. 20.
LAMBETH.
The name of this pari:>Ii is variously S2:)clt as Lumhhi/dc, Lainhijl^ Lainhci^ to which miglit
be added many other diversities of designation occurring in deeds and records of different
periods.* In the Doomsday Book it is styled Lanchei, probably by mistake for Lamhei.
Camden and other antiquaries have indulged in much speculation concerning the etymology
of this name, but then- conjectures are little satisfactory.
This very extensive parish is bounded by the Thames on the north, and borders on
Xe-wington and Camberwell to the east, on Croydon, Streatham, and Clapham to the south,
and on Eattersea and the river Thames to the west. It is divided into eight precincts,
namely, the Bishop's Liberty, the Prince's Liberty, Faukes-hall, or Vauxhall, Kcnnington,
Lambeth Marsh, the "Wall Liberty, Stockwell, and Lambeth Dean, or the Dean's Liberty.
It includes the districts belonging to the churches of St. John, 'Waterloo Eoad ; St. Mark.
Kennington; St. Matthew, Brixton; St. Luke, Xorwood ; St. Mary, Lambeth Butts;
St. Michael's, North Brixton ; Holy Trinity ; and All Saints.
The soil varies considerably in different parts, consisting, near the river, of brick- clay
resting on sand and gravel ; but on the south, towards Croydon, the clay predominates.
In this soil especially the oak flourishes. Partly in this parish, and partly in Croydon,
was the great wood mentioned by Aubrey called "Norwood, belonging to the See of
Canterbury, wherein was an ancient remarkable tree called 'the Vicar's Oak,' where four
parishes meet in a point. This wood consists wholly of Oaks." f Tlic Vicar's Oak Avas
cut down in 1679.
The earliest mention of this place by name is in the Saxon Chronicle, ^itli reference to
the death of Uardyknute, the last of the Danish Kings of England, who is stated to have
died suddenly in June, 1041, at Lambeth. But this event appears to have occurred at
Clapham, which may then have formed a part of the parish of Lambeth. J In 1002 King
Edward, afterwards called the Confessor, gave Lambeth, with other estates, to the
monastery of "VValtham, in Essex. At the end of the charter relative to this grant the
boundaries are thus described : — '• These are the bounds of the land at Lainbchythc : first,
at the Stone of Brixi (Brixstan) ; and thence by the wood to Mordcn, and then to the
Gnarled Tree ; and from that tree to Hyse ; and from Ilyse to Elsy's Close, and again to
the road ; and thence, by the line of the road, to the Stone of Brixi." §
* See Ducarel, " Hist, and Antiq. of the Palace of Lambetb," pp. 1, 2.
+ Aubrey, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 33. X See above, under ClaiAam, p. 28.
§ See Dugdale'a " Monasticon," vol. vi. p. 61, edit. 1830.
VOL. III. G
+2 HISTORY OF SURREY.
According to William of Malmesbury, after the death of King Edward, Harold,
the son of Etui Godwin, placed the crown on his head with his own hands at
Lamhhythe.
Two manors called Lanchei (Lamhei) are described in the Doomsday Boole, and also a
third, named Chenintune (Kennington) : —
" In Brixistan Hundred. The Land of the Church of Lanchei. The manor of
St. Llary, which is called Lanchei, was held by the Countess Goda, the sister of Zing
Edward. It was then assessed at 10 hides ; now at 1\ hides. The arable land
amounts to 12 carucates. There are in the demesne 2 carucates ; and twelve villains,
and twenty-seven bordars, with 4 carucates. There is a Church. Nineteen burgesses in
London pay 36s. ; and there are three bondmen, and 16 acres of meadow. The wood
yields three swine. In the time of King Edward, and afterwards, it was valued at £10 ;
now, at £11. The Bishop of Baieux hath one culture of laud in this manor, which before
and after the death of Goda belonged to the Church."
"In Brixton Hundred, the Earl of Moriton, or Mortaign, holds Lanchei, which
the Canons of Waltham held of Herald. It Avas then assessed at 6i hides; now at
nothing. The arable land is 6 carucates. There is in the demesne 1 carucate ; and
'five villains, and twelve bordars, with 3 carucates. There is one bondman; and G acres
of meadow. In the time of King Edward it Avas valued at 100s. ; afterwards, and at
present, at £4."
Among the lands of the King's Thanes " Theodric the Goldsmith holds of the King,
Chenintune, which he held of King Edward. It was then assessed at 5 hides ; now, at
1 hide and 3 virgates. The arable land consists of 21 carucates. There is in the
demesne 1 carucate ; and four villains, and three bordars, with 2 carucates. There is one
bondman, and 4 acres of meadow. It was, and is, valued at £3."
The Manor of Lambeth. — The Countess Goda (so called because after the death
of her first husband, "Walter de Maigne, she married Eustace, Count of Bologne), in
conjunction with her husband, granted this manor to the Bishop and convent of Eochester,
with the exception of the advowson of the church. Harold, doubtless after the death of
King Edward, having taken the manor from the see of Eochester, it subsequently, with his
other estates, fell into the possession of William the Conqueror, whose son, William Eufus,
restored it to the convent, together with the patronage of the parish church, and this grant
was confirmed by Henry L, Stephen, and Henry 11.
Baldwin, Archbishop of Canterbury, having been prevented by the monks of Christ
Church, in that city, from establishing a college of secular canons at Hackington, near
LAMBETH. 43
Canterbury, determined to erect a house for himself and his successors, and likewise a
church and college, at Lambeth.* Accordingly, having procured from the canons of
Eochcster a part of their court at Lambeth, with 24 acres and 1 pole of the demesne lands,
in exchange for certain lands in Kent, in 1188 ho commenced building a chapel, intending
to make it collegiate ; but having joined in the crusade under Eichard I., he went with
the Xing to the Holy Land, where he died in 1190, leaving the work unfinished.
Eeginald, his successor, held the sec a few weeks only ; but Hubert Walter, the next
archbishop, completed the chapel, and in order the more effectually to execute Baldwin's
design, he commenced a treaty with the Prior and Canons of Eochester for the entire manor
of Lambeth. Gilbert de Glanville, bishop of that diocese, interfered in the negotiation,
with a view to obtain a proper equivalent for the manor ; and it was at length agreed that
Archbishop Hubert should give to the confraternity, in exchange for the manor of Lambeth
with its appurtenances, besides the land he had already surrendered, tlic manor of Darcut,
in Kent, with the church and " the chapel of IIelles,"t a barton [hcrcarin), and lands at
Clivc, or Cliffe, and two hundred and twenty sheep there kept. J At the same time
the Archbishop granted to the Bishop of Eochester a piece of ground near the church
whereon to erect for himself a mansion, which will be subsefLUontly noticed. This
exchange of property was confirmed by Eichard I., by the convent of Canterbury, and
by Godfrey de Lucj^, Bishop of Winchester, in whose diocese Lambeth was till recently
situated.
The Archbishop, having obtained the manor, procured from King John a grant of a
market and a fair to be held at Lambeth, but these have long been discontinued. On his
proceeding towards the completion of the collegiate institution, the monks of Christ Church,
fearing that the new foundation might in time cause the removal of the metropolitan see to
London, endeavoured to hinder Hubert from executing his purpose ; and having engaged
the Pope, Innocent III., in their interest, that pontiff issued to the Archbishop, in 1199, a
peremptory order to give up his design, and pull down the buildings he had commenced.
He was obliged to comply with the requisition ; but the feud between the primate and the
monks continued, and in 1202 he prevailed so far as to have the settlement of the affair
referred to the decision of the Bishops of London and Ely, and the Abbot of Bury
* It appears from ancient records that some of the predecessors of Baldwin had resided at Lambeth at lea-t
occasionally. See Lysons's " Environs," vol. i. p. S68 ; and Nichols's " Lamhcth," p. 153.
+ This is apparently a mistake of Dr. Dncarel and others for Nelles, or the chapel of St. Margaret Nelles.
X The deed relative to this transaction is extant in the archives of the chapter of Rochester, and there is a co]iy
of it in the Cottonian Library. From the former it has been published in the " Registrum Roifense," and also in the
Appendix to Nichols's " History of the Parish of Lambeth." This document has no date, but the exchange took
place in 1196.
o 2
^^ HISTORY Oil SURREY.
St. Edmund's, who determined that the Archbishop might buikl a church in any part of
Lambeth except where that had stood which was destroyed, and that he might place in it
a limited number of Premonstratensian canons, with an endowment of £100 a year. The
college, however, was not resumed, but Archbishop Hubert made the manor-house his
principal residence, and it has been occupied in the same manner by his successors, but
with many alterations and additions, as will be noticed hereafter.
Ever since this purchase or exchange was made the manor has been held by the
Archbishops of Canterbury, with the exception of the period of the Commonwealth. In
164:8 Lambeth House, together with the manor, was offered for sale by the Commissioner^^
of the Parliament, when Thomas Scot and Matthew Hardy became the purchasers for
£7,073 Os. 8d. After the Eestoration they were forced to surrender the estate, and both
were excluded from the benefit of the Act of Oblivion passed after the King's return.
Scot, who had been one of the judges of the late King, and secretary to Oliver Cromwell,
was executed as a traitor at Charing Cross.
This parish had always been considered, down to 1877, as belonging to the diocese of
Winchester, but it has been questioned whether the site and precincts of the palace be not
included in that of Canterbury. Though the archbishops, from time immemorial, were
exempt from payment of parish rates, an attempt was made in 1776 to enforce an assess-
ment for the relief of the poor ; but the question having been argued in the Court of
Common Pleas, it was finally decided that the palace, gardens, and grounds form an extra-
parochial district.
The Aechiepiscopal Palace. — The manor-house, when occupied by Archbishop
Hubert Walter, must have been small as compared with its subsequent state. The date
of its foundation is uncertain, but it is probable that the vaults under the chapel formed
a portion of the ancient structure.* " It has," says Manning, " grown by degrees to its
present magnitude, the site of the palace, with the garden and inclosed land, occupying
about 13 acres." \ Stephen Langton, the successor of Archbishop Hubert, dated some of
his public acts from Lambeth in 1209, and Dr. Ducarel supposed that prelate to have
greatly improved the mansion. In 1262 Boniface, who then held the see, procured from
Pope Urban IV. a bull authorising him to appropriate a fourth part of the oblations at
Becket's tomb to such pious uses as he should think projier, and also to repair or build
anew the old edifices at Lambeth. As Boniface survived the date of this instrument
* Ducarel, " Lambetli Palace," p. 12.
t Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. iii. p. 472. See also the ground-plan in Ducarel's " Lambetli," p. 76. Con-
siderable additions ^vere, however, made to the grounds by Archbishop Moore about the beginning of this century, and
their present extent is fully 18 acres.
LAMBETH.
45
about ciglit years, it may be conchulcd that he availed himself of the Pai^al license to
enlarge and improve the structure, but to what extent is uncertain. Eobcrt Ivihyardby
jirimate in 1272, was made a cardinal by the Pope in 1278, when he resigned the sec of
Canterbury and went to Eome, taking with him not only the jewels, plate, and money
but likewise the Kegisters belonging to the archbishopric, which his successors in vain
attempted to recover. Hence the earliest Eegister now to be found here is that of Arch-
bishop Peckham, who succeeded Xilwardby in 1278. Archbishop Walter Eeynolds in
1321 repaired several apartments and detached structures, as appears from his steward's
accounts, preserved in the Lambeth library.
During the insurrection under "Wat Tyler in 1381 the insurgents beheaded on Tower
Hill Simon Sudbury, the Archbishop and the King's Chancellor, on the day prior to which
" the commons from Essex " had rifled his palace at Lambeth, and destroyed valuable
property there, including records belonging to the Court of Chancery. William Courtenay
and Thomas Arundel, the immediate successors of Sudbury, repaired the injuries done to
the house : the latter of those prelates built a new chapel. But more extensive improve-
ments were effected during the primacy of Henry Chichele, between 1424 and 1445, and
the sums of money he spent, as well as the purposes to which they were appropriated, are
recorded among his steward's accounts. The chief of these works was the erection
of the " Lollards' Tower," at the west end of the chapel, in 1434-5, at a cost of
£278 2s. lUd.*
John Morton, made archbishop in 1487, and afterwards created a cardinal, is comme-
morated by Leland as having repaired and renovated this edifice, then verging to decay.f
He erected the great gateway about 1490, together with another large tower northward of
the cloisters ; he also embellished the chapel by filling the windows with painted glass,
representing the Scripture history from the creation to the day of judgment. Archbishop
Laud, "at his coming to Lambeth, found these windows shameful to look on, all diversely
patched, like a poor beggar's coat, as his words are, and he repaired them, which, at his
trial, was imputed to him as a crime," it being alleged that he had restored them " by their
like in the mass book." But this he utterly denied.^
William Warham, raised to the primacy in 1504, states in his will that he had
expended £30,000 in repairing and ornamenting his houses ; but it is uncertain how much
* This seems a small sum. See, however, Ducarel's " Lambeth," p. 14, for the items.
t " Palatium Archiepiscoporum (apucl Lomitliis sive Lamithis) jam ad senium devergerat. Ecce pra;sto est Joannes
Moridunus, et, absterso senio omni, florem ac juventutem renovate et aucto operi magnifice reddit.'' — Comment, in
Cygneam Cantion. Ithier. vol. ix. p. 78.
X Ducarel, "Lambeth," p. 26; from Laud's " Diarj-.*
^b HISTORY OF SURREY.
of this money was laid out on Lambeth Palace. Thomas Cranmer, the next archbishop,
built the great parlour called the "steward's parlour;" also '"a summer-house in the
garden, of exquisite Avorkmauship." * Cardinal Pole, Metropolitan imder Queen Mary,
built "a gallery towards the east," with a few adjoining apartments; and Aubrey
erroneously attributes to him the erection of the gatehouse. Matthew Parker, appointed
to the see by Queen Elizabeth in 1570-1, greatly repaired and embellished the palace; he
covered the great hall with shingles, made a long bridge reaching to the Thames, restored
the summer-house of Cranmer, repaired two aqueducts, and improved the di-aiuage.f The
metropolitans who presided during the remainder of the reign of Elizabeth, and those of
James I. and his son, do not ajjpear to have made any improvements requiring notice.
Laud's restoration of the chapel windows has been already mentioned, as having contributed
to excite the prejudices of his fanatical opponents against him. In his " Diary " he thus
states the insults to which he was exposed : — " 1642, Aug. 19, a party of soldiers came to
search for arms, and under that pretence broke open doors, and committed other outrages.
Nov. 24, the soldiers broke open the chapel door, and offered violence to the organ.
1643, May 1, the chapel Avindows were defaced, and the steps torn up. May 9, all the
archbishop's books and goods were seized on, and even his very Diary taken by force out
of his pocket." % This palace (particularly the gatehouse and the Lollards' Tower) was
afterwards used as a prison for the Eoyalists. After it had been sold by the Parliament,
as before related, Colonel Thomas Scot, one of the piu'chasers, who had that part of the
building in which the chapel was situated, determined to convert it into a "hall, or dancing
room," for which purpose he levelled the tomb of Archbishop Parker. He also pulled
down the great hall, sold the materials, and committed other depredations. It is further
stated that the leaden coffin which held the body of the Archbishop was sold to a plumber,
the corpse having been taken out and thrown into a dungheap in one of the outhouses.
After the Eestoration, however, his remains were re-interred in the chapel, where is
a marble slab, with this inscription: — "Corpus MiTTHiEi archiepiscopi tandem hie
qviescit."
Dr. "William Juxon, who was made archbishop in 1660, on the restoration of episcopacy,
repaired the chapel and rebuilt the great hall, on the plan of that which had been
destroyed, with a Gothic roof, at the charge of £10,500. But notwithstanding Juxon
laid out so much money in the renovation of this edifice, during the short period, scarcely
* Ducarel, " Lambeth," p. 15.
+ M. p. 17. Craiimer's siimiuer-liouse was taken down in the time of Archbishop Comwallis. The steward's
parlour was pulled down during more recent alterations.
X " Diary of Archbishop Laud," published by Wharton, pp. 65 — 7. •
'm€tVi-\w» '^ ' i^imBpriniiiiiiuBplPliiiii'iil
l|||B
Jlillilh
^
three j'ears, in wliick he govcrued the sec his executor M-as obliged to pay CSOO for
alleged dilapidations. Dr. Gilbert Sheldon, his successor, completed tlie rep;iirs, and,
according to Aubrcj', built the now library.* Dr. John Tillotsou, -who obtained (lie see;
on the deprivation of Dr. Bancroft, is said by Ducarel to have "expended £1,i){)0 or
£8,000 on Lambeth Palace during the three years and seven months that he enjoyed his
high dignity." He raised nevs' buildings towards the gatehouse, but his works seem to
have chiefly consisted of alterations and embellishments. Archbishop Seeker also disbursed
a large sum of money on the repairs and decoration of the chapel and various other works.
Archbishop Cornwallis added to the palace a new drawing-room and a dressing-room,
besides making some alterations in the old buildings.
Little was done to the palace by the succeeding primates, Moore and Sutton, who were
respectively advanced to the sec of Canterbury in 1783 and 1805 ; but the grounds and
gardens were much enlarged by the former, and the now country seat of the archbishops
at Addingtou, in this county, was purchased by Dr. Sutton, in 1807, out of certain trust
moneys belonging to the see assigned for the purpose. After the accession of Dr. Ilowley
in 1828 new and important additions and alterations Avere made, by which the comfort of
the palace was greatly enhanced, and an air of unity and stateliness given to the wliole.
The works were several years in progress, and the entire expense was little short of
£60,000. During these alterations a considerable portion of the old buildings Avas
restored, and the archiepiscopal residence rebuilt. This is in the Tudor style of architec-
ture, and Avith its bay AvindoAVS, battlements, toAvers, gables, and clustered chimneys, has
a picturesque effect. Little or nothing Avas done to the palace under the succeeding
archbishops, Sumner and Longley; but in 18G9 the buildings of the Lollards' ToA^'er were
repaired, and internally in part reconstructed, under the direction of the Ecclesiastical
Commissioners. Archbishop Tait, in 1878, caused considerable repairs and renovation to
be made in the chapel and in other parts.
The Gatehouse.-j- — The chief entrance to the palace is on the south side, and almost
* '-Surrey," vol. i. p. 0. Tliis alludes to the late library, occupyiuy a quadrangular gallery over the cloisters,
altered to make room for the buildings erected by Archbishop Howley. The library was designed, Aubrey says, " by
my worthy friend and countrj-man, Mr. Stafford Tjiidale, a gentleman tarn Marti quam Mcrcurio, unfortunately cast
away in the Thames, 1G78, bury'd at Lambeth without memorial."
t At this gate the Dole, immemorially given by the Archbishops of Canterbury to the indigent parishioners of
Lambeth, is constantly distributed. Its present participants are thirty poor aged persons, each of whom receives gifts of
bread, meat, and money, which are distributed to ten of their number at a time on three different days in each week.
Soup, also, is given both to them and many other poor persons. The word dole signifies a share or portion, and is still
used in that sense ; but in former times it was more particularly applied to the alms (broken victuals, &c.) customarily
distributed at the gates of great men. Stow, in his examples of housekeeping, laments the decline of this laudable
custom in his day, " which before had been so general that almcs-dishcs (into which certain portions of meat for the
needy were carved), were to be seen at every nobleman and prelate's table.'' As the first in place and dignity under the
i.S HISTORY OF SURREY.
adjoining to Lambeth Cliureli. The "great gate" is mentioned in the "Comiautus Balli-
vornm," or steward's accounts, as early as 1321, but the present fabric was erected by Cardinal
Morton about 1490. It is of vast size and height, and consists of an embattled centre,
comprising a spacious arched gateway and postern flanked by two immense square towers,
also embattled. The whole i§ constriicted of a fine red brick, with stone quoins and other
dressings ; the arches, of the Tudor form, are also of stone ; and the roofing Avithin the
entrance and under the "record room " (wherein, until recently, many archives of the see
of Canterbury were preserved) is strongly groined. The towers are ascended by spiral
stone staircases, leading to the several apartments, now used chiefly as lumber-rooms.
The exterior roofs, which are flat and leaded, command extensive views over the river
Thames and the adjacent parts of the metropolis. Adjoining the archway, and connected
with the porter's lodge, is a small room, evidently used in former times as a prison. It is
guarded by a double door, the windows are high and narrow, and the walls are liued with
stone and of great thickness. Within it, fastened to the wall, are three strong iron rings,
to which the chains of the persons confined there were doubtless attached. An additional
proof of the appropriation of this room is, that here are cuttings in the wall similar to
those in the Lollards' Tower, made with a knife or other sharp instrument. The name
3}oI)n CEvnfton, in the old English character, is perfectly legible ; 'and near it are a cross
and other figures rudely delineated.
On the ancient brick wall running from the left of this building, which bounds the
outer court and garden on the Thames side, are several devices in glazed bricks : among
them are three or four crosses of different forms, very neatly worked. Similar ornamental
work chequers the walls and towers of the gatehouse itself.
The Aechiepiscopal Libraky, formerly the Great Hall. — During the alterations made
by Archbishop Howley, between 1829 and 1834, the great hall erected by Juxon was
converted into a library for the printed books belonging to the see ; and a new entrance
gateway to the inner court was built, with a spacious fire-proof room over it for the recep-
tion of the manuscripts, and in which they are now carefully preserved.
The "Computus" referred to above (15 Edward I.) mentions the great hall, and such an
apartment was doubtless coeval with the foundation of the palace. It was repaired by
Chichele, and newly covered with shingles by Ai-chbishop Parker in 1570 and 1571.
sovereign, the Aiclibishopa of Canterbury appear to have exercised tliis ancient virtue of hospitality in a supereminent
degree ; and in Archbishop Parker's " Regulations " for the ofScers of his household at Lambeth it was ordered that
there should be " no pm-loining of meat left upon the tables, but that it be putt into the almes-tubb, and the tubb to be
kepte sweete and cleane before it be ust-d from time to tiine." The desuetude of which Stow complains may possibly be
ascribed to the institution of tlie Poor Laws in Queen Elizabeth's reign:
LAMBETH. ^^
Being destroj-cd by Colonel Scot during the sway of the Commomvoalth, the present hall
was raised precisely on the old site by Archbishop Juxon, almost immediately after the
Eestoration. It appears from Aubrey that the Archbishop ordered it to bo built to
resemble the ancient model as nearly as possible, " nor could all the persuasions of men
versed in architecture, and of his friends, induce him to rebuild it in the modcra way,
and unite it to the library, though it would have cost less money." * Though thus
intended as an imitation of the Gothic style, both its architecture and ornaments are of a
mixed kind.
The walls, chiefly of a dark red brick, are supported by strong buttresses, edged and
coped with stone, which terminate in large balls, or orbs, in place of pinnacles. The
outer or western side (originally most exposed to observation) is more ornamented than
the opposite side in the inner court. The roof is slated, and from the centre rises an
hexagonal lantern of two stories, surmounted by a large vane, in which are the arms of
the see of Canterbury impaled with those of Juxon, viz, a cross between four negroes'
heads, the whole being surmounted by the archiepiscopal mitre.
No building could be better adapted for a library than this : its interior length is
93 feet, its breadth 38 feet, and its height from the paved flooring up^^■ards of 50 feet.
On each side are five large pointed-arched windows ; and near each end, on the west side,
is a fine bay window, 7 feet 4 inches in depth, and extending from the floor to the spring-
ing of the roof. The north-west window is richly ornamented with stained and painted
glass, most of which has been brought from other apartments. In the upper division is a
large shield showing the arms of the see of Canterbury, impaling those of Archbishop
Juxon : underneath is a splendid recent addition of a similar size, exhibiting the arms of
Archbishop Howley, impaled with those of his see. Around are small coats of the arms of
twenty-four former archbishops. Here also are the arms of Philip II. of Spain, which,
Ducarel says, were presented to Archbishop Herring by the learned Dr. Birch, and like-
wise a curious ancient portrait on glass of Archbishop Chichele.f
The roof, constructed with much labour in the style of our ancient halls, is an excellent
specimen of carpentry, and entirely of oak. It consists of eight main ribs, with longitu-
dinal braces, springing from corbel brackets in the side walls, and enriched with carved
spandrels, pendants, and other ornamental work, inclusive of enwreathed mitres, and the
arms of Juxon and the see of Canterbury several times repeated. In each end wall is a
pointed-arched window of three divisions, and below it a large fireplace. The arms of
* Aubrey, " Surrey," vol. v. p. 273.
t Both the Latter pieces were engraved and coloured for Brnyley and Herbert's " Lambeth Palace Illustrated," &c.,
published in 1806, 4to.
50 HISTORY OF SURREY.
the see, impaling those of the Archbishops Bancroft and Seeker, are painted over the fire-
place, the former archbishop being entitled to this distinction as being the founder of the
library, and the latter from the gift that he made " of all such books from his own private
library as were not in the public one," and which compreliended the largest and most
valuable part of his collection.
According to Ducarel, the number of printed books in the library is " at least 25,000
volumes;" but at the present time they amount to nearly 30,000. They are partly
arranged in cases affixed to the side walls, and partly in twelve large cases projecting
towards the middle of the room, the intervening recesses being occupied by massive tables
of oak, chiefly made from the old dining-tables of the hall. The earliest printed books arc
principally kept within the recess of the south-west bay window, which forms a convenient
private study for the librarian.
There does not appear to have been any archiepiscopal library at Lambeth until the
time of Archbishop Bancroft, who died in 1610, and who, having bequeathed his books
for the pui-pose, must be regarded as its founder. His successor, Abbot, who added to the
collection many new books, thus mentions the gift of his predecessor in his o-svn will : —
" Lett all men present and to come know and understand that Kichard Bancrofte, doctor
of divinitie, first bishop of London, and afterward promoted to the archbishopric of
Canterbm-y, being for many years a great gatherer together of bookes, did voluntarily and
of his owne action (as in his lifetime he had oft foretold he would), by his last will and
testament, give and bequeath unto his successors the Archbishops of Canterbury for ever,
a greate and famous Library of Bookes of divinity, and of many other sorts of learning."
The condition on which Archbishop Bancroft bequeathed his library to his successors
was, that it should not be alienated from the see, to prevent which he directed that they
(the archbishops) should "yield to such assurances as shall be devised by such learned
counsel as my supervisor or executor shall make choice of" for its preservation. In case
of non-compliance, his bequest was to be transferred "to his Majesty's Colledge to be
erected at Chelsey, if it be erected within these six years ; or otherwise to the publiquc
library of the "University of Cambridge." '"'
In 1646, about two years after the execution of Archbishop Laud, the library was
* 111 consequence of the al)oye direction, and by command of King James, Arclibisliop Abbot consulted Sir Francia
Eacon, Solicitor General, who recommended that two exact and accurate catalogues should be made — one to be deposited
in the archives of the Dean and Chapter of Canterbury, and the other to be kept at Lambeth. He did not, however,
think it fit that any large bond or obligation should be entered into by the succeeding archbishops, but that the value
of any book or books, " the loss of which might have been hindered, should be made good to the library again." Arch-
bishop Abbot laid a solemn injunction on his successors in the see to preserve the books carefully, as he had done, but
he makes no mention of any other security. (Ducarel, " Lambeth Palaqe," pp. 47 — 51.)
LAMBETH. 51
seized by the agents of the Parliament, The use of the books was Hrst granted to
Dr. Wincocke, but the}^ were afterwards given to Sion College, iind man}- began to be
dispersed in private hands; so that "probably fearing for their safety in times so inimioal
to learning," Mr. Selden suggested to the University of Cambridge its right to tliem, and
they were delivered, in pursuance of an ordinance of Parliament, dated in 1G47, into the
possession of that learned body. After the Eestoration Archbishop Juxon demanded the
return of the library, which requisition was repeated by his successor, Sheldon, as founded
on the will of the original donor, and the books were returned accordingly. Prior to this,
however, an order of Parliament had been obtained that such part of the collection as was
in private hands shoidd immediately be delivered up, and that the volumes in the pos-
session of John Thurloe and Hugh Peters should be seized.*
The books belonging to Archbishops Bancroft, Abbot, Laud, and Sheldon are distin-
guished by their arms. Those which bear the arms of Whitgift were purchased from his
executors by Archbishop Bancroft, Avhose own collection, as appears from a passage in
Aubrey, " was begun with the books of Eobert Dudley, Earl of Leicester," the once
powerful favourite of Queen Elizabeth.f Seeker's gift has already been noticed. Some
additions were made to the theological stores of the library by Archbishops Cornwallis and
Ilowlcy. In 1875 was made a donation of modern theological books from the collection
of the late Professor Sclwyn, of Cambridge, one of the honorary curators of this librarj'.
This library, as might be expected, is more adapted to the studies of the learned
professor than of the general reader. It consists of rare and curious editions of the
Scriptures, commentaries of the early fiithcrs, scarce controversial divinity, records of
ecclesiastical affairs, works on English history and topography, &c., many of which are
extremely rare and curious, and valuable also, both from the fineness of the copies and
the splendour of their embellishments.
The early printed books in this collection are numerous and valuable, and the late
learned librarian, the Eev. Samuel E. Maitland, D.D., compiled two catalogues relating to
them of especial interest and usefulness to the bibliographical inquu-cr. Among the more
curious black-letter productions of the English press are Caxton's " Chronicles of
England" and "Description of Britain," both which were "fynysshed" in 1480. These
belonged to Archbishop Bancroft, and are considered to be the finest copies extant : they
are in folio, and bound together. Lyndewode's " Constitutiones Provinciales," a small
octavo, prmted by Wynkin de Worde in 1499 ; " The Golden Legend, emprynted at
Londo in Eletestrete, in the Sygnc of the George by Eicharde Pynson," in 1507; and
* Mercurius Politkus, May 17, IGGO. t Auljrey, "Surrey," vol. v. p. 277.
H 2
52 HISTORY OF SURREY.
another edition of the same work by Wynkiu do Worde, in 1527 ; Gower's " Confessio
Amautis," a splendid copy, folio, by Caxton, in 1483; "Dives and Pauper," folio, by
Pynson, in 1493 ; Capgrave's " Lives of the Saints," folio, by Wynkin de Worde, in
151G ; and "Chaucer's Works," folio, by John Eej-nos, in 1542, and Islip in 1598, are
also preserved among these literary treasures.*
Another singularly curious book (a small folio), printed at Paris, on vellum, about
1500, entitled " La Dance Macabre " — that is, the Dance of Death — is also preserved here.
It is printed with old Gothic types, and contains many beautiful illuminations, with
explanatory verses in French under each. Only tlu'ce copies of this edition arc known,
and there are erasures in all. Of Ai-chbishop Parker's great work, "Do Antiquitatc
Britannica3 Ecclesite," &c., here is a complete copy, and perhaps unique, it being illustrated
by manuscript notes, and many letters, deeds, &c., together with the rare portrait of the
Archbishop by Eemigius Hogenberg, taken in 1573.
Among the most curious contents of this library is a series of small thick volumes
containing a large number of black-letter tracts, pamphlets, and sermons collected and
bound up by Archbishop Bancroft. In the latter compositions, especially in those preached
at St. Paul's Cross, this library is j^erhaps richer than any other collection. The same
may be said of the "Mar-Prelate" tracts, and of the writings of the Brownists and other
separatists of the Elizabethan age, and of the controversial works to which they gave rise.
This library communicates by a double flight of stone steps with the manuscript
department, which occupies the spacious room over the new gateway. According to the
" Catalogue of the Archiepiscopal Manuscrij)ts and Eecords," f published in 1812, the
* The first of the two catalogues compiled by Dr. MaitlanJ, printed in 1843, at the private expense of Archbishop
Howley, is entitled " A List of some of the early printed Books in the Arcliiepiscopal Library at Lambeth," and
contains 464 pages in octavo. This is one of the most curious and interesting bibliographical records that have issued
from tlie press in this country. In a preliminary address to the " Lord Archbishop of Canterbury " the -m-iter says
that his original intention was to give a list of all the books in the library printed before 1550. Ho found them, how-
ever, to be so niimerous that he abandoned the design, and has given only the English books up to that period, and
confined the foreign books to those printed before 1520. Of aU the books noticed the titles and colophons are given at
full length, or in general but little abridged. Bibliographical observations on the copies are added, with copious
references to the works of Ames, Herbert, Dibdin, and other bibliographers for information as to the productions of
the British press, and for foreign books references are given usually to Panzer's " Annals." Besides the list of complete
volumes, there is one of remarkable fragments, some of them single leaves, both the books and fragments being often
illustrated by woodcuts, of wliicli many specimens, as well as others of the letterpress, are exliibited in this volume.
It is altogether a literary production which every lover of bibliography will view with admiration of the ability and
industry of the author. The other catalogue, printed in 1845 for public sale, is of a less elaborate character. Its
title is, " An Index of such English Books, printed before the year mdc, as are now in the Archiepiscopal Library," &c.
8vo, 120 pages.
t This catalogue, comprised in a folio volume of 270 pages, was commenced by Henry AVharton, librarian to
Archbishop Sancroft, and continued by his successors, Gibson, WiUdns, and Ducarel : it was augmented and prepared
for publication by the late Rev. Henry J. Todd, M.A., librarian, the learned editor of an excellent edition of Dr. Johnson's
Dictionary. A distinct list has been published of the collection made by Professor Carlyle.
.LAMBETH. 53
manuscripts fire arranged in seven sets of divisions, namely, 1. Codices Lamhcthani^ consist-
ing of the contributions of various arclibisliops -wlio held the sec before the Revolution ;
2. Codices Whartoniani, or the collections of Wharton, purchased by the primate Tenison ;
3. Codices Carctoani, forty-two vols, folio and quarto, formerly belonging to George, Lord
Carew, Earl of Totness, relating chiefly to the afiairs of Ireland in the reign of Elizabeth,
purchased by the same prelate ; 4. Codices Tenisoniani, also the gift of Tenison ; 5. Codices
Gibson iaiii, added to this library, agreeably to his own du-ections, by the executors of
Dr. Edmund Gibson, Bishop of London, after his death in 1748 ; G. Codices 3IisccUanei,
presented by various benefactors ; 7. Codices Ilamiers-Suttoniani, consisting principally of
collections made in Turkey and other Oriental countries by Professor Carlyle, and comprising
some valuable manuscripts of the New Testament and copies of the Koran of Mohammed.
The number of curious articles in this collection is far too great to admit in this place
of anything more than a brief notice of a few of the most remarkable. "Perhaps," says
Mr. Todd, " two of the greatest curiosities in this Library are the ancient French Yersion
and Exposition of the Apocalypse, ornamented with miniature paintings, No. 75 ; and the
Latin copy of the Apocalypse, also beautifully illuminated, No. 209, which Mr. Astle
admits to have been written in the thirteenth century." The latter is a beautiful manu-
script, in folio, on vellum, including seventy-eight most brilliant illuminations, together
with several figures of our Saviour, the Virgin Mary, two ancient Archbishops of Canter-
bury, the Death of ^Villiam Rufus, &c., very neatly drawn, and in excellent preservation.
One of the most interesting among the relics of the literature of the Middle Ages
preserved in this collection is No. 200, a copy of the treatise "De Yirginitate," in praise
of celibacy, by Aldhelm, Abbot of Malmesbury, and afterwards Bishop of Sherborne, in
the beginning of the eighth century, to which early period the execution of the manu-
script is attributed. A fac-simile engraving of the first page forms the frontispiece to
]\rr. Todd's catalogue. Besides a curiously ornamented initial letter, the plate exhibits a
miniature representation of the author (St. Aldhelm) seated, presenting his book to an
abbess Avho approaches him at the head of a train of eight sisters.*
Many valuable manuscripts of the sacred writings in different languages are preserved
in this library. Among them is the New Testament in Greek, containing the Epistle
which St. Paul mentions his having addressed to the Laodiceans, No. 369 ; the Codez
Ephesius, consisting of the four Gospels in Greek, with various readings, beautifully
written. No. 528; the Epistle of St. Paul to the Galatians in Ai-abic; the Old
* An engraving of this group i\-as published in the " Collection of Prints in Imitation of Drawings," by C.
Rogers, Esq., F.B.S., two vols, folio, 1778; and the principal figure (St. Aldhelm) was introduced by Strutt' among the
illustrations of the " Dress and Habits of the People of England."
HISTORY OF SURREY.
Testament in Armenian ; tlie whole Bible, WyclifFe's translation, -with the Prologue of
St. Jerome, No. 25 ; and another English translation of the Bible, ajiparently of the
fifteenth century, but differing from the version by Wycliffe. Ilerc are several Latin
Psalters beautifully Avritten and illuminated, one of which has an interlined Saxon
version ; and a Hebrew Psalter, with a Latin glossarj-.
Among the works of the Christian fathers arc a tine manuscript of St. Augustine's
Exposition of Genesis, St. Chrysostom's Exposition of St. Matthew, and the works of
St. Cyprian, together with several Scripture Expositions of Bede in fine preservation,
some Anglo-Saxon sermons of the tenth centiuy, and a volume of Saxon Homilies
written in the twelfth century. Among the missals is a very beautiful Salisbury missal,
folio, on vellum, supposed to have belonged to Archbishop Chichele, his arms, finely
emblazoned, beiag inserted in two places.
Here are several extremely valuable manuscripts of Greek and Latin classics, including
Aristotle, No. 1204 ; Yariorum Auctorum Grtecorum Opuscula, No. 120G, including some
pieces that have never been published ; the Orations of Demosthenes, No. 1207 ; a
manuscript of the "Works of Virgil, of the thirteenth century, No. 471 ; Sallust, of the
same date, No. 759 ; and with these may be mentioned Cicero's Offices, printed on vellum,
by John Fust, at Mentz, 1466, with interlinear manuscript notes, No. 765.
Among the manviscripts peculiarly relating to the see of Canterbury are the Lambeth
Eegisters, as they are called, anciently kept in the priory of St. Gregory at Canterbury.
These Eegisters occupy about fort}' folio volumes, written on vellum. The names by
which they are called, and the times of their respective continuance, are as follow : —
Pcckham from 1279—1292
Winchelsey 1294—1313
Reynolds 1314—1322
There are not any Eegisters of tlie
Archbisliops Mepbani, Stratford,
Ufford, and Bradwardin
ing : they lield the see
Islip
Langham
Wittlesey
Sndbury
Courtenay
Arundel, two vols. ...
Chichele, two vols. ...
Stafford
Kemp
Boiircliier
Morton (Cardinal) . . .
Deane
Wart.am
1322—1349
1349—1366
1366—1368
1368—1374
1375-1381
1381—1391
1397—1413
1414—1441
1443—14.52
1452—1453
1454—1486
1486—1498
1498—1499
1504—1532
Cranmer
Pole (Cardinal)
Parker, two vols
Grindal
Wiitgift, three vols.
Bancroft
Abbot, three vols
Land, two vols.
See vacant sixteen years.
Juxon
Sheldon
Sancroft
TiUotson
Tenison, two voLs
Wake, three vols. ...
Potter
The Eegisters of the subsequent primates were
kept at Doctors' Commons until that office was
transferred to Somerset House.
1533-
-1553
1556-
-1558
1559-
-1575
1575-
-1583
1583-
-1604
1604-
-1610
1610-
-1633
1633-
-1644
1660-
-1663
1663-
-1667
1667-
-1691
1691-
-1694
1694-1713
1713-
-1736
1736-
-1747
These records relate to a vast variety of subjects, and contain entries of acts respecting
the temporalities of the archbishops ; homages ; popes' bulls ; letters to and from popes,
cardinals, kings, princes, and others ; commissions and proxies ; dispensations ; appeals ;
marriages ; divorces ; institutions and collations to benefices ; appropriations of livings ;
regulations of religious houses ; enrolments and registrations of Avills and testaments ; pro-
cesses ; sentences ; and a multitude of other judicial acts and instruments of various kinds
passing i;nder the cognisance of the archbishops of this see.
Among other records belonging to this sec are two large folio volumes of Papal Bulls,
arranged alphabetically according to the names of the Eoman pontitfs, from Alexander III.,
in 1155, to Clement VII., in 1534 ; Ancient Charters and other instruments relating to
this archiepiscopal see, chiefly of the time of Henry VIII., in thirteen volumes ; Notiiia
Parochialis, in six volumes ; Eeferences to Endowments of Vicarages, by Dr. Ducarel, in
two folio volumes ; and accurate transcripts of the Parliamentary surveys made of the
l^roperty of bishops, deans, and chapters, with a view to its sale, during the Commonwealth,
in twenty-one folio volumes, with a manuscript index.
This collection is stored with manuscripts relating to English historj^, both civil and
ecclesiastical. Such are those styled the " Chronicle of St. Alban's," a folio on velliun,
finely illuminated, of the time of Henry VI., No. 6 ; the " Chronicle of Marianus Scotus,"
jSTo. 42 ; Caxton's " Chronicle," differing much from his printed work, but imperfect,
Xo. 84 ; an " Epitome of Chronicles," No. 386 ; several collections of Histories, Xos. 00,
188, and 419 ; and copies of Matthew of Westminster, Geoffrey of Monmouth, and other
monkish historians. Here also arc many important documents connected with the history,
&c., of Scotland, Wales, Ireland, and France, and particularly of the relations of the
latter country with England in the reigns of Henry V. and VI., together with numerous
documents relating to the affairs of other European nations, and to the travels and
missionary proceedings of the Jesuits.
In manuscripts on Heraldry and Genealogy the library is very rich, many manu-
scripts on those subjects being written or corrected by Lord Burghley. Here are stores
of old English poetry and romances : among the former, Lydgate's Works, and Gawen
Douglas's Translation of Virgil's ^neid; and among the latter the metrical legend
of Sir Libeaus Disconus, of which Eitson published an edition, but from another
manuscript.
Numerous interesting letters are preserved here, as well of royal personages as
distingiiished literati. Among these are the letters of Lord Verulam, published by
Dr. Birch ; those of his brother, Anthony Bacon, forming sixteen volumes ; the letters of
56 HISTORY OF SURREY.
the Earl of Slire-\vsbury, auil of many other persons from the latter part of the reign
of Henry YIII. until the commencement of James I.
The library was transferred to the great hall by Archbishop Ilowlcy in 1834, previously
to which time it had been located in some galleries over the cloisters, which were then
standing. In 1876 the great hall was used as the Arches Court of Canterbury for the
trial of cases brought before the Dean of the Court of Arches under the " Public Worship
Eegulation Act." The apartment was fitted up for the accommodation of the bar,
reporters, witnesses, &c., and the judge, Lord Penzance, occupied the Archbishop's chair.
In 1869 Archbishop Tait appointed as honorary curator of the library the Venerable
Archdeacon Hale, who only lived one year after the appointment. Since 1872 this office
has been held by the late Dr. Selwyn, Bishop of Lichfield ; the late Professor Selwyn ; and
the Yery Eev. G. H. S. Johnson, Dean of "Wells. In 1879 Dr. Selwyn's j)lace was filled
up by the appointment of Dr. Durnford, Bishop of Chichester.
The first librarian at Lambeth was Henry T\Tiarton, who published the " Anglia
Sacra " and other learned works. His successors were Paul Colomiez, a Prench refugee ;
Dr. Edmund Gibson, afterwards Bishop of Lincoln, and translated to London in 1723 ;
Dr. Benjamin Ibbot, made a Prebendary of "Westminster in 1724 ; Dr. David Wilkins, the
learned editor of " Concilia Magnoe Brit, et Hib.," &c. ; John Henry Ott, M.A., a Swiss
clergyman ; John Jones, M.A. ; Henry Hall, M.A. ; Dr. Andrew C Ducarel, a native
of Normandy, the author of "Anglo-Norman Antiquities" and the "History of
Lambeth Palace," and also the compiler of several indices to the MSS. ; * Dr. Michael
Lort, sometime Greek Professor at Cambridge ; Henry John Todd, M.A., editor of
Milton and of Johnson's Dictionarj', and author of various works ; the Eev. William
Stubbs, M.A., Ecgius Professor of Modern History in the University of Oxford, and
author of the " Constitutional History of England," &c. ; and the present librarian and
keeper of the manuscripts, Mr. S. W. Kershaw, M.A., the author of " The Art Treasures
of Lambeth Library," a description of the illuminated MSS., &c., published in 1873.
In 1873-4 the whole of the books and manuscripts were thoroughly repaired and
re-catalogued for use by a special grant from the Ecclesiastical Commissioners. It may
be added here that the library is freely open to students on Mondays, Wednesdays, and
Fridays for all literary purposes.
Nearly adjoining to the great hall, northward, is the entrance to the offices which
communicate with the Lollards' Tower, now forming the northern extremity of the
* Some interesting biographical anecdotes of Dr. Ducarel were given by the late Mr. John Nichols in his
" History of the Parish of Lambeth."
LAMBETH. 57
buildings in the outer court. This is a strong fiibricj embattled, and chiefly constructed
of dark red brick, but faced -svith stone on its outer sides. It was erected by Ai-chbishop
Chichele, as before stated, and derives its name from the persecuted sect called Lollards,
some of whom are known to have been examined and were most likely imprisoned here in
the time of the Archbishop.* In the exterior wall on the Thames side is a Gothic niche,
wherein formerly stood the image of St. Thomas Ji Bccket, the cost of which was 13s. 4d.
Beneath it are some sculptui-ed remains of the arms of Chichele.
The principal apartment in this tower has been denominated the Post-room, from a
strong octangular post or pillar that sustains the great timbers of its low roof or ceiling.
This is flat and panelled ; each intersection exhibits an ornamental carving of angels with
scrolls, &c., together with other figui-es, one of which is a head remarkable for its
resemblance to Henry VIII. This room derives light from three deeply splayed windows
on the west side. On the opposite side is the entrance to the chapel, formed by a large
semicircular stone arch springing from small columns, and enclosing two trefoil-headed
doorways, having a quatrefoil in the central space aboA^e.
The ascent to the Lollards' prison is from a small door in the post-room by a steep
spii'al staircase, the steps of which are much worn. It is approached by a narrow low-
pointed archway of stone, barely of sufficient size to admit one person to pass at a time.
This is secured both by an inner and an outer door of strong oak, each 3^ inches
thick, closely studded with iron rivets, and with fastenings to correspond. On
entering the attention is arrested by the large iron rings fixed in the walls about breast
high in the following order : three on the south, four on the west, and one on the north
side. This chamber is nearly 15 feet in length, about 11 feet in width, and 8 feet high.
It has two narrow windows enlarging inwardly, one to the west, the other to the north :
on the latter side are also a small fireplace and chimney.t Many incisions have been made
in the oaken wainscoting by the unhappy persons imprisoned here, consisting of iaitials,
* Wilkins, " Concilia," vol. iii. pp. 404, 405. (See also the Register of Archbishop Chichele, vol. ii. fol. 57, a.)
Archbishop Warham's proceedings against divers reputed heretics in his court at Lambeth in 1511 are mentioned in
BLshop Burnet's " History of the Reformation ; " and in 1531 the celebrated Hugh Latymer, after being excommunicated
for a supposed act of contumacy, was ordered by the same primate to remain in close custody in his "manor of
Lambeth." One of the charges against LatjTuer was " a denial of purgatory," in saying " he had lever [rather] be in
purgatory than in Lollards' tower." But whether by that expression he meant the Bishop of London's prison, so called,
in Old St. Paul's, or that at Lambeth, is questionable. In former times the archbishops distinguished their residence
here by the name of Lambeth House and the Manor of Lambeth, and not by the modern title of Palace, many
examples of which may be found in their letters, even of a date subsequent to the Restoration.
t This prison is not within the large tower of wliich the post-room forms a part, but in a small adjoining tower, or
attachment, of a square form, projecting from it on the north side. That the archbishops had prisons here before this
tower was constructed is evident from the Registers of the see, and possibly on this very site, an old stone building
which stood upon the spot having been pulled down to make room for the new tower.
VOL. III. I
58 HISTORY OF SURREY.
names, short sentences, crosses, dice, &c. The letters, mostly in the old English
character are in general very rudely formed. The following are specimens : —
Ike— Jlohtr disokt grttbtor anli stjtititlar.
Ihs f^ppc mc out of all t\ rotnpene. amen
^£0 fit gnrthtnt [graciaru] a^tto.
$.tsztt tt ijjs'tn.— fsto motieits. — "^u. abit.
John SHortlt.— thcssam boftor.— a c^ffavko.
The Lollards' Tower consists of three stories above the post-room, and the apartments
in it were for many years used as lumber-rooms. Having fallen into a dilapidated
condition, the tower was thoroughly restored in 1869, when it was turned to account as
the town residence of the late Bishop of Lichfield, Dr. Selwyu.
From the post-room, as already stated, there is an entrance to the chapel, which bears
sufficient marks of antiquity to warrant an opinion of its being coeval with the time when
this estate first became a fixed arehiepiscopal residence.* The interior, divided into an
inner and an outer chapel by an elaborately carved screen, is 72 feet in length, 25 feet in
breadth, and 30 feet in height. Formerly the roof had been concealed by a flat panelling,
embellished with the arms of the Archbishops Laud, Juxon, and Cornwallis ; but this,
during the alterations in the palace above referred to, has given place to a vaulting in
plaster, enriched with coloured subjects from the heavenly hierarchies. At the east end
are five long lancet-shaped lights, and on each side are three triplicated windows
resembling those in the Temple Church. In 1878 the whole of the windows were renewed
with coloured glass, designs from scriptural subjects, by Messrs. Clayton and Bell, and at
the expense of Archbishop Tait. Against the central division of the west window (next
the Lollards' Tower), long closed up, is afiixed a small semi-hexagon kind of Gothic shrine,
supported by an angel holding a shield sculptured with the arms of Juxon. This chapel,
as we have seen, having been despoiled during the civil wars, was indebted for its renova-
tion to Archbishop Juxon, but the screen or partition "which makes it two," as Laud
mentions in his "Diary," and which he describes as being "just in the same place where
it now stands from the very building of the chapel," was most probably set up by that
archbishop, his arms being carved on a shield above the doorway. In the outer chapel,
which forms a kind of vestibule, is a small gallery, now appropriated to the female
* In Archbisliop Peckham's Register ia a mandate (almost illegible) for the reparation " CapeUse manerii da
Lambeth," dated at North Elmham in 1280. A new altar appears to have been erected, and a re-consecration to have
taken place in honour of the blessed Virgin, in 1407. (Register, Arundel, para i. fol. 147, 6.) The " Great chapel" is
mentioned in the " Computus BaUivorum " of 15 Edward II., as well as in other ancient documents at Lambeth. Here also
were two " Oratories," in one of which divers ordinations were celebrated, as recorded in the Registers of the see, very
early in the fifteenth century.
LAMBETH. jq
domestics : tliis was formerly occupied as an organ gallery, but no organ lias been here for
a long series of years.*
The only memorials of interment here have reference to Archbisliop Parker, who died
in 1575. By his own desire his bowels Avere deposited in an urn in Lambeth Church
(where his wife lay bru-ied), and his body interred near the communion-table, on the south
side, where he had caused his own tomb to be "erected while he was yet alive," near the
spot where "he used to pray." f The demolition of this tomb and the recovery and
re-interment of his remains have been noticed abeady.J Archbishop Sancroft, who had
taken an active part in the latter proceedings, also composed the following epitaph,
inscribed on a small plate of brass affixed to the east end of another plain tomb that
Sancroft raised to his memory in the outer chapel : § —
Matth^i Arcliiepiscopi Ceuotapliiiun,
* corpus eniiu, (ne uescias, lector,)
in adyto hujus sacelli olini rite conditum,
a sectariis perduellibus, anno mdcxlviii,
effracto sacrilege hoc ipso tumulo,
elogio sepiilclirali impib refixo,
direptis nefarife exuviis plimibeis,
spoliatum, violatum, eliminatum ;
etiam sul) sterquilinio (proh scelns !) abstrusum :
rcge demum (plaudente ccelo & terra) redeunte,
ei decreto Baronum AngHa;, seduli requaesitum,
et sacello postliminio redditum,
in ejus quasi medio tandem quiescit.
Et QVIESCAT utinam,
non nisi tuba ultima solicitandum.
QVI DENVO DESECRAVERIT SACEB ESTO.
It has been often alleged that Archbishop Parker was irregularly consecrated at the
Nag's Head Tavern, in Cheapside, by the hands of one bishop only ; but there is evidence that
* Archbishop Parker bequeathed an organ — " organa choriaUa in sacello Lambithi sita " — to his successors. Tlie
following curious passage occiirs in the will of Archbishop Laud :—" Item, I give to my successor (if the present
troubles in the state leave me any), my Organ in the Chapel at Lambeth, provided he leave it to the See for ever.
Like'tt'ise I give him my barge and the furniture to it. But in case the Archbishopric be dissolved, as it is threatened,
then I vill that my executor add the organ, the barge, and such pictures as are mine, to my estate ; that is, if they
escape plundering."
t Viie, Strype's " Life and Acts of Archbishop Parker," i&c. pp. 49-1 — 498, folio, 1711.
X See anie, p. 46.
§ Queen EHzabeth reposed great confidence in Archbishop Parker, and frequently visited him in his palace. But
the hospitality with wliich she was treated could not altogether restrain her from expressing her indignation at the
prelate's breach of celibacy. She had never, indeed, been perfectly reconciled to that part of the Reformation which
allowed the marriage of ecclesiastics ; and Parker had not only wTitten a pamphlet in its support, but absolutely
entered the nuptial bands prior to the repeal of the statutes forbidding the priests to m.arry. On one occasion, the
haughty Queen " being once above the rest greatlie feasted " by the Archbishop and his lady, could not, at her departure,
forbear intimating her sentiments in the following rude and uncourteous manner. After giving the Archbishop " very
especiall thanks, \vith gratious and honourivble terms," she looked upon his wife, and said, " And you— 3/(idom I may
not call you, and Mistrtss I am ashamed to call you; so I know not what to call you, but yet I do thanke you." (See
Harrington's "Nugaa Antiquse," vol, ii. p. 16, edit. 1804.)
I 2
60 HISTORY OF SURREY.
his consecration took place in this chapel, December 17th, 1559, and that it was conducted
according to the " duly appointed ordinal of the Church of England." * The officiating
prelates were William Barlow and John Scory, the Eishops elect of Chichester and
Hereford ; Miles Coverdale, Bishop of Exeter ; and John Hodsldn, Suffragan Bishop of
Bedford. Since that era the consecrations in Lambeth Chapel were very numerous down
to about the year 1860, after which most consecrations have taken place in Westminster
Abbey or Whitehall.
Beneath the chapel is a crypt, supposed to have been anciently used for divine
worship. It consists of a series of strongly groined arches of stone, supported in the
centre by a massive column, and by brackets in the side walls. Its present height is
about 10 feet, but the ground has been much raised : the length is 30 feet, and the width
about 24 feet.
On entering the spacious quadrangle forming the inner court, we observe that on the
west side it is bounded by the library (Juxon's hall) and great dining-room (once the
guard-chamber), on the north by the new buildings of the palace, on the east by
extensive stabling and offices, and on the south by the wall separating it from Lambeth
Churchyard. j- The alterations and erections of Dr. Howley's time were executed from the
designs of Mr. Edward Blore. These buildings are of Bath stone : the south or principal
front is 160 feet in width, and is distinguished by two octagonal towers 84 feet high,
between which is the main entrance, formed by an obtuse arch surmounted by armorial
shields and other ornaments. The entrance hall, about 30 feet by 26, communicates with
many spacious rooms on the chamber floor ; also with the principal floor by a high flight
of steps skii-ted by elaborate open-work balustrades, and leading to si long corridor, the
ceiling and sides of which are elegantly panelled.
On this floor, at the north end, is the Archbishop's private library and sitting-room,
measuring 44 feet by 26. Here, over the fireplace, is an original portrait, on board, of
Archbishop Warham, consecrated in 1504. This was painted by Holbein, and presented
by him to the Archbishop himself, with a head of his friend Erasmus.J The large bay
* See Percival's "Apology for the Doctrine of Apostolical Succession, " App. pp. 109—122, -wherein copies are
given of the origuial records of the consecration in Parker's Kegister at Lamheth, and in the library of Corpus Christi
College at Cambridge.
t In the intervals between the buttresses of the library some cuttings from the two fig-trees traditionally reported to
have been planted by Cardinal Pole are now in a state of vigorous gro-n^th. The trees, of the white Marseilles kind, and
producing excellent fruit, were destroyed with the old buildings during the late alterations.
X Botli the above pictures passed by the wills of Archbishop Warham and his successors until they came to Arch-
bishop Laud, after whose decapitation they were missing till the time of Bancroft, v.'hen that of Warham was recovered
by Sir WilKam Dugdale, and returned to the palace : that of Erasmus was wholly lost. Warham's portrait has been
repaired and reframed.
f ^1
LAMBETH. 6i
window of tHs room commands a Yiew of the Houses of Parliament and the Abbey church.
Adjoining to this are the Archbishop's private apartments. In the drawing-room is a large
picture of Charles I., his queen, and children, and thus inscribed : —
This Picture was presented Ly King Charles I. to Sir Thomas Holt, of Aston Hall, Warwickshire ; where
it was placed and remained till the year 1817, when it was given by Heneage Legge, Esq., to Mary Frances
Howley.*
In the ante-room is another full-length portrait of Charles. I., ascribed to Vandyke ;
also an old picture on panel of the four fathers of the Western Church, viz. — St. Ambrose,
St. Jerome, St. Augustine, and St. Gregory — with the Holy Spirit as a dove above
them. This, with two other ancient paintings long since lost, had belonged to Cardinal
Pole.
Adjoining to the picture gallery, on the west, is the great dining-room, occupying the
exact space of the ancient guard-chamber, which was rebuilt and converted to its present
use during the alterations above referred to. In the " Computus Ballivorum " of Henry VI.
it is expressly mentioned under the name "Camera Armigerorum," from being the repository
for the arms kept for the defence of the palace in old times, as was customary in all con-
siderable houses. Archbishop Parker gave by will aU his arms, both at Lambeth and
Canterbury, to his successors in the see, provided they were accepted in lieu of dilapidations.
It seems, however, that such acceptance never took place, but that they subsequently passed
to each succeeding primate by purchase, for Archbishop Laud distinctly says that he bought
the arms at Lambeth " of his predecessor's executors." During the plundering of Lambeth
House in 1642, those weapons, the quantity of which had been much exaggerated in
order to increase the popular odium against the Archbishop, were taken away, and it
does not appear that any considerable collection of arms was ever afterwards made here.f
This apartment is 58 feet long, 27 feet 6 inches wide, and proportionably high. It is
chiefly remarkable for its venerable timber roof, consisting of a strong framework of pointed
arches in five compartments, resting on brackets, and having pierced spandrels, &c., in
the style of our ancient halls. This was underpropped and preserved when the new walls
* Sir Thomas Holt was one of the most faithful adherents to the royal cause, and his son attended in arms on the
King himself, who was entertained at Aston Hall two nights shortly pre\'iou3 to the battle of Edgchill.
t In February, 1452, the Convocation which had met in St. Paul's Cathedral was, on account of the great infirmity
of Archbishop Kemp, adjourned to the "manor of Lambeth," and to be continued from day to da}-. On reassembling in
this apartment, then distinguished as the high great chamber (" alta camera majori "), the collector of Pope Nicholas V.,
having represented the danger from which his Holiness and the conclave had escaped by the discovery of a conspiracy
planned to destroy them, the Archbisliop ofl'ered up a prayer of thanksgiving and praise for their^ deliverance. In this
chamber, also, Archbishop Laud kept his state on the 19th of September, 1633, the day of his consecration, the King,
Charles I., having enjoined him by letters, in the fonn of liis translation, " to use all such ceremonies and offices,
and to carry himseK with the same state and dignity, and to assume such Privileges and Pre-eminences as hia
Predecessors in the See had used and enjoyed heretofore."— 3/SS. Collect, Tenison, vol. i. f. 225, as quoted by Le Neve.
b'z HISTORY OF SURREF.
were constructed about 1832. On tlie west side is a large fireplace of freestone, cnriclied
with ornamental turrets.
In this room, besides smaller portraits, is a series of half and three-quarter lengths, of
all the Archbishops of Canterbury from Laud to Dr. Sumner, arranged as follows : —
William Laud, 1633 : a fine picture by Vandyke.
He was belieaded on Tower Hill in 1644.
f-Filliam Juxon, 1660 : from a good original at Long-
leat. This prelate (when Bishop of London) was
held in high favour by Charles I., -ivhom he attended
on the scafl'old, and received his last conunands in
the mysterious word " Remember."
Gilbert Sheldon, 1663. Whilst chaplain to Charles I.
he became witness, in 1646, to a remarkable vow
made by that sovereign, to the effect that if it
should please God to re-establish him in his throne
and kingly rights, "he would give back to the
Church all the impropriations and lauds held by the
Croivn, taken away either from anj' episcopal see,
or any other religious foundation." In his copy of
the King's vow Sheldon attests that he had pro-
served it thirteen years underground.
William Sancroft, 1678-79: deprived in 1690 for
refusing to take the oaths appointed by Parliament
after the Revolution of 1688.
John Tillotson, 1691.
Thomas Tenison, 1694 : by Simon Dubois.
William Wale, 1715.
John Potter, 1736.
ThomMS Herring, 1747 : painted by Hogarth.
Matthew Button, 1757 : by Hudson.
Thomas Seeker, 1758 : by Sir Joshua Reynolds.
Eon. FredericJc CornwalUs, 1768 : by Dance.
John Moore, 1783.
Charles Manners Sutton, 1805 : this is an expressive
picture by Sir William Beechey.
William Howley, 1828 : finely executed by Sir Martin
Archer Shee.
John Bird Sumner. This portrait has recently been
added to the collection.
Besides the above, here are several smaller heads of
the older archbishops, as Thomas Fitz- Allen, alias
Anmdel, 1396, a copy from a curious and unicjue
portrait at Penshurst; Henry Chichele, 1413;
Thomas Cranmer, 1533 ; and Edmund Grindal,
1576. Here, too, is a well-painted portrait of
Cardinal Polo, 1555, from an original in the Bar-
bcrini Palace at Rome.
In the picture gallery, which occupies the two remaining sides of the small cloister
quadrangle that formerly contained the library, are the following among other pictures : —
A small portrait of Archbishop Potter, when a boy
sLx years of age (1680), holding the Greek Testa-
ment, which he is said to have nearly read at that
early time of life.
A portrait, said to be Archbishop Sancroft when a
student (1650), with the motto, "Rapido contrarius
orbi."
Martin Luther : a small head on board, brought from
Nuremberg.
An old but imaginary head of St. Dunstan, on panel.
A Countess of Devonshire, unknown.
Dr. Christopher Wren (father of the great architect),
small full-length, as Dean of the Garter: similar
to the print in the " Parentalia."
Cardinal Pole.* This is a curious old painting on
board, executed in a hard and dry style, but most
probably a genuine likeness. On one side of the
head are the arms of the Cardinal, viz. — Per pale,
or and sab. a saltier engr. counterchanged, impaled
\rith those of the see of Canterbury. Above is the
foUo-ndng inscription, with other words, now ille-
gible : —
Reginaldus Polus E. Cardinals
CoUegii Corporis Xpi Oxon. oUm Socius,
Electus in dictin Collegia, 14 Feb. [1523].
Queen Catherine Parr : an original three-quarter length,
on board. She is depicted in a rich di-ess of scarlet
and gold, the face being much younger and far
more handsome than in the print engraved by
Houbraken among the " Illustrious Heads."
Richard Fox, Bishop of Winchester, ob. 1528 • one
hand is placed upon a skull.
* After the decease of the Cardinal in 1558, and prior to his interment in Archbishop Becket's Chapel at
Canterbury, his body lay in great state at Lambeth during forty days. Whilst resident at this palace Cardinal Pole
maintained great state and hospitality, and in 4 Philip and Mary he had a patent (still preserved here in the MS. Library)
for retaining a hundred servants.
LAMBETH.
Thmrns Bilson, Bishop of Wiu -beslcr, dated 1611,
aged sixty-four.
A small picture, called by Ducarel Martin Luther and
his Wife: small three-quarter lengths, on board.
This is painted ^rith great truth and vigour, but ia
altogether unlike the common portraits of Luther,
and more probably represents a Dutch burgomaster.
He is looking most fondly on hia wife, who appears
to be with child. Luther threw off the monkish
habit in 1524, and in the same year he married
Catherine de Bore, who had been a nun, and with
eight others had escaped from a nunnery in 1523.
They had several children.* This piece has been
said to be the work of Holbein, but it beara no
resemblance to the style of that master : it has been
copied on enamel by Bone.
Archbishop Warham : a copy from Holbein in the
private library.
Augmtus Tomishend, "born in 1745, second son to
Charles, Lord Viscount Townshend, by hia second
wife;" Charles, " Lord Viscount To-svnshend, Secre-
tary of State to George I. and George XL, 1730 ;''
Dorothy Walpole, "second wife to Lord Viscount
Townshend, 1726;" Sir Robert Walpole, K.G.,
" created Earl of Orford, 1741 ,''t ob. 1745.". These,
all full-lengths, were apparently executed by the
same artist.
Archbishop UliiUjift, 1583 : small, on panel, with his
arms. Ob. 1604.
Archbishop John Moore: a small whole-length, 1783.
John Warren, D.D., Bishop of Bangor. Ob. 1800,
a2t. seventy.
Henry, Prince of Wales, eldest son of James I., full-
length. This is a cirrious picture, both from the
costume and the manner of execution.
Gilbert Burnet, Bishop of Sarum (1689), in his robes as
Chancellor of the Garter ; finely coloured.
John Hough, Bishop of Oxford, 1690; afterwards of
Liclifield and Coventry, 1699 ; and of Worcester, 17 17:
ob. 1743. Tliis was painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller.
Simon Patrick, Bishop of Ely, 1691. He was an
eniment casuist, and one of those who engaged in
the conference " On the Rule of Faith," &c., before
James II., with the Popish doctors Giffard and
Godden, in wliich the latter were so closely pressed by
their antagonists that the King left them abruptly,
and was heard to say that he "never knew a
bad cause so well, nor a good one so ill maintained."
An old south view of the Cathedral at Canterbury,
brought from Croydon. This is a curious delinea-
tion, but has been pieced in order to introduce a
sky and foreground.
Archbishop Herring, 1747.
Archbishop Wake, 1715.
James Gardiner, Bishop of Lincoln, 1694.
Dr. Rimdle, Bishop of Derry, in 1735.
George Hardinge, Esq., M.A., when young : a full-
length, painted with great spirit and brilliancy.
Near the latter is a small piece representing the
upper part of an emaciated figure in bed, appa-
rently dead, a cap being nearly dra^^■n over the
eyes. Tliis is said to be Archbishop Jiixon after liis
decease ; most probably with truth, as the features
closely resemble those of his portrait in the dining-
Archbishop Sheldon: a large picture representing him
sitting with a book.
John Willianu, Bishop of Chichester, 1696.
William Lloyd, Bishop of Worcester, 1699. He was
one of the seven bishops committed to the Tower by
James II. His countenance is of a very primitive
cast, and Burnet eulogizes him for his humility and
goodness.
John Moore, Bishop of Ely, 1707.
John Evans, Bishop of Bangor, 1701 ; and of Mcath,
in Ireland, 1715.
William Fleetwood, Bishop of Ely, 1714.
" Georgius Berkeley, S.T.P. Couscc. Ep. Cleonensis,
Mali 19, 1755."
John Thomas, Bishop of Winchester, 1774. This
picture, by Dance, has the date 1761, at which time
he was Dean of Westminster.
Richard Terrick, Bishop of London, 1704, also by
Dance : both are cleverly painted.
Benjamin Hoadly, D.D., Bishop of Bangor, 1715;
translated to Hereford in 1721 ; to Salisbury in
1723 ; and to AVinchester in 1734. This was painted
by Mrs. Sarah Hoadly, the Bishop's wife, and is an
estimable specimen of female talent.
Zacluiriah Pearce, D.D., Bishop of Bangor, 1748 ; and
of Rochester in 1756. This is a fine portrait.
Sir Thomas Gooch, Bart, translated from the see of
Norwich to Ely in 1748: this is dated 1750;
set. seventy-six.
John Douglas, D.D., Bishop of Carlisle, 1787; Dean
of Winchester, and Registrar of the Order of the
* In a letter \vTitten by Erasmus, dated in 1526, is this passage :— " Luther's marriage ia certain : the report of his
wife being so speedily brought to bed is false ; but I heai that she is now with child. K the common story be true,
that Antichrist shall be born of a monk and a nun, as some pretended, how many thousands of Antichrists are there in the
world already ! "
t The date 1741 on the picture is incorrect. Sir Robert was created Baron of Houghton, Viscount Walpole, an.l
Earl of Orford, in 1742 — two days only before he resigned oflB.ce.
64 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Garter: painted by Six William Beechey in 1789. ArMishop Par/ic;-, painted in 1572 by Richard Lyne,
This prelate was translated to Salisbury in 1791, an artist of considerable merit, retained by the Arch-
and died in 1807. bishop on his establishment, and nnder whom he
Archbishop Tillotson, 1691. This was formerly in the conjointly practised the sister arts of painting and
old dining-room, and Lysons, speaking of the engraving. Lysons says it was presented to the
portraits there, remarks that " Archbishop Tillotson Archbishop by the painter, but having been lost
was the first prelate who wore a wig [as here repre- during the civil wars, was recovered by Sir W.
sented], then not unlike the natural hair, and worn Dugdale. It bears much resemblance to a small
withou.t powder." portrait of the Archbishop engraved by E. Berg
Archbishop Abbot, 1010: an expressive and finely (Remigius Hogenberg), also retained at the palace
coloured picture. by that prelate.
In one of the leading passages is a line portrait by Owen of Dr. Bell, the founder of
the Madras or National System of Education ; and in the drawing-room is a portrait of
the late Archbishop Longley, painted by Eichmond.
Many important events have taken place within the walls of this palace, which are
intimately associated with our domestic annals and the characters and actions of many of
our sovereigns and eminent forefathers; but the great length to which already this
account has necessarily extended renders it inexpedient to enter into further details,
unless of a very general character.
Lambeth House, says Lysons,* "has, at various times, proved an asylum for learned
foreigners, obliged to flee from the intolerant spirit of their own countrymen. Here the
early reformers. Martyr and Bucer, found a safe retreat ; and the learned Antonio, Arch-
bishop of Spalatro, was entertained by Archbishop Abbot."
The archbishops resident here have frequently been honoured by visits from their
respective sovereigns. Henry VIII. was a guest of Warhani in 1513 ; and one evening
in 1543 he crossed the Thames to Lambeth Bridge to acquaint Cranmer (whom he called
into his barge) of the plot formed against him by the dignitaries of his own Church, under
the secret encouragement of Bishop Gardiner, " who," it was said, "had bent his bow to
shoot at some of the head deer."
After the battle of Solway Moss in 1542 many of the Scottish nobility were made
prisoners and sent to London. Among them was the Earl of CassUis, who was committed
to the charge of Archbishop Cranmer at Lambeth. During his sojourn here Cranmer
earnestly endeavoured to convince him of the errors of Eomanism, and with so much
success that the Earl, on his release and return to Scotland, is reported to have been
instrumental in establishing the reformed opinions in that kingdom.
Queen Mary is said to have completely furnished Lambeth House at her own expense
for the reception of Cardinal Pole, and she was several times his visitant during his short
* " Environs," vol. L p. 274.
LAMBETH. 65
primacy. The visits of Elizabeth to Archbishop Parker have been already noliecd ; but his
successor, Grindal, very soon inciu-red the Queen's displeasure, and was privately com-
manded " to keepe his house," where ho was never greeted by her smiles. On the
contrary, TVhitgift, the next archbishop, was many times flivourod by the Queen's
presence, and she occasionally stayed with him two or three days. Iler successor, James,
also visited Whitgift, the last time being on a mournful occasion (February 28th, ICOl),
when the primate was paralytic, and on his death-bed : he expired, indeed, on the
following day. The Protestant Queen Mary had a conference here with Archbishop
Tillotson in 1G94.
In 1642 Captain Brown, with a party of soldiers, entered Lambeth Ilouse to keep it
for the Parliament. Shortly after the Ilouse of Commons voted that it should be made a
prison, and that Dr. Leighton, who had been a severe sufferer under the despotic inflictions
of the Star Chamber Coui't. should be appointed Keeper. Among the King's friends subse-
quently confined here were Sir George Bunkley, Lieut. -Governor of Oxford, who had
distinguished himself at the siege of Basing ; the Eev. Eichard Allestry, afterwards D.D.
and Provost of Eton, an emissary of the Royalists, who narrowly escaped a public trial ;
Sir Thomas Armstrong, then a partisan of the Crown, afterwards executed for his con-
nivance in the Duke of Monmouth's rebellion ; and the Earls of Chesterfield and Derby.
Long prior to this time, however, it had been frequently used as a prison for ecclesiastical
or other ofi'enders who had fallen under the disjileasure of the sovereign. The deprived
bishops, Tonstal of Durham, and Thirlby of Ely, were committed by Queen Elizabeth to
the charge of Archbishop Parker immediately after his consecration ; and here they both
died, the former in 1559, and the latter in 1570 : they were interred in Lambeth Church.
Dr. Boxal, who had been Secretary to Queen Mary, was also imprisoned here.
The palace library has twice of late years been the place of meeting of a Pan- Anglican
Synod or Conference, at which were assembled nearly all the bishops of the Protestant
Episcopate from all the four quarters of the globe. The fii'st was held in 18(37 under
Archbishop Longley, and the second in 1878 under Archbishop Tait.
The following is a list of the Archbishops of this see who have expired at Lambeth,
with the dates of their decease and the places of their burial : —
William If'ittlesey, June 5tli, 1375. ^
Jolm Kemp, March 22iic], 1403. I These prelates were iuterred in Canterbury
Henry Deane, February 15th, 1505. | Cathedral.
Cardinal Pole, November 17th, 1558. J
Matthew Parker, May 17th, 1570: buried in Lambeth Chapel.
John TFhitgift, February 27th, 1604 : buried in Croydon Church.
Richard Bancroft, November 2nd, 1610 : buried in Lambeth Church.
66 HISTORY OF SURREY.
William Juxon, June 4tli, 1663 : buried in the Chapel of St. John's College, Oxford.
Gilbert Sheldon, November 9th, 1677 : buried in Croydon Church.
John Tillotson, November 22ud, 1694 : buried in the Chureh of St. Lawrence Jewry.
Thomas Tenison, December 14th, 1715 : buried in Lambeth Cliurch.
IFilliam TVahe, January 24th, 1736-7 : buried in Croydon Church.
John Potter, October 10th, 1747 : buried in Croydon Church.
Thomas Seeker, August 3rd, 1768 : buried in Lambeth Churchyard.
Hon. Frederick Cornwallis, March 19th, 1783 : buried in Lambeth Church,
John Moore, January ISth, 1805 : buried in Lambeth Church.
Ciuirles Manners SiUton, July 21st, 1S2S : buried in Addington Church.
Rectoey axd Adyowson 01^ Lambeth. — In the Taxation of Pope Nicholas this living
is valued at 45 marks, with the deduction of a pension to the Bishop of Eochester
amounting to £3 6s. 8d. ; a quit-rent of 2s. 5d. to the Archbishop of Canterbury ; 2s. Id.
for synodals ; and 7s. 7id. for procurations. In the King's books it was valued at
£36 14s., leaving the clear proceeds, after the above deductions, .£32 ISs. 2^d. The
advowson, withheld in the grant of the manor by the Countess Goda, was given by
William Eufus to the see of Eochester. It was transferred with the manor to the Arch-
bishops of Canterbury, who still possess the patronage. This benefice is in the deanery
of Southwark.
Rectors of Lambeth in and since 1800 : —
1. — William Vysej'LL.J). Instituted in 1777.
2. — Christopher Wordsivorth, D.D. . Instituted in 1816.
^.— George Z>' Oyly, D.D. Instituted in 1820.
4. — Charles Broivn Dalton, M.A. Instituted in 1846.
5. — John Fcntiman Lingham, M.A. Instituted in 1854.
Among the clergymen who have held this rectory several are deserving of notice, both
on account of theu- learning and abilities and of the transactions in which they were more
or less implicated.
Gilbert de Glanville, Bishop of Eochester and Lord Chief Justice of England, was
instituted to this rectory in 1196.
Henry, Bishop of Joppa, was instituted in 1471.
Nicholas Slake, or Selake, who obtained this living by exchange with Hugh de
Buekenhull, for the custody of the free chapel of St. Eadegund in St. Paul's Cathedi-al,
Vfas Dean of St. Stephen's Chapel, and one of the obnoxious ministers of Eichard II. In
1388, when the Duke of Gloucester and his confederates assumed the administration of the
government, this priest was numbered among " the suspected persons of the King's court
and family who were awarded to prison to answer to the next parliament." He was
LAMBETH. 67
coufiued in Nottiugliain Castle, but he probably escaped capital punishment on account of
being an ecclesiastic.
John. Porye, educated at Gonyillc and Caius College, Cambridge, became Eector of
Lambeth in 1563, He translated from the Latin " The Description of Africa," by John
Leo, usually styled Leo Africanus, who wrote in the early part of the sixteenth century,
and of whose work a French translation was printed at Antwerp in lo5G. Porye's
version appeared in 1600, with a dedication to Sir Eobert Cecil.
Daniel Featley, whose family name was Faii'clongh, was born at Charlton-upou-Otmore,
near Oxford, in 1582. He was educated in the university in that city, and soon
becoming eminent for his learning and controversial talents in divinity, was admitted D.D.
in 1017. In the following j'car he was instituted to this rectory by ArchbishoiD Abbot,
who also ajjpointed him his domestic chaplain. Though a Calvinist in principle, he was a
strong upholder of the English Church, which he defended by preaching and writing, as
well against the Protestant sectaries as the Catholics ; and he excited the displeasure of
Archbishop Laud by refusing to obey him "in turning the communion-table of Lambeth
C^hiu'ch altar-wise." In 1G12 he was appointed by the Parliament one of the Assembly of
Divines; yet his adherence to the established forms and usages of the Chiu-ch gave great
offence to the fanatics of the time ; so much so, indeed, that in 1G12-3, in the midst of divine
service, whilst the Te Deum was being sung, several soldiers rushed into Lambeth Church
with pistols and drawn swords, with the intention, as appeared by their own expressions,
of killing Dr. Featley. They are stated to have affrighted out the congregation, and to
have killed two persons, but the doctor, having been " preraonishcd " when on his way to
preach, fortunately escaped their A'cngcancc. In the same year he was deprived of his
Church preferments, his house and library were seized, and himself committed to Petrc
House, in Aldersgate Street, then used as a place of confinement for state prisoners. This
arose from a letter which he had written to Archbishop Usher at Oxford having been
intercepted, and the contents of which showed a strong approach to double dealing. He
desired the Archbishop to represent to the King that "he was secretly his friend, and
kept his seat in the Assembly of Divines only to render him service ; " and he concluded
with the request that "he might be promoted to the fii-st vacant bishopric or deanery."
After an imprisonment of about eighteen months, being in bad health, he was permitted
upon bail to reside at Chelsea College, of which he was provost, for change of aii- ; and he
died there in 16-15, and was buried at Lambeth. His " Clavis Mystica," &c., "handled
in 70 sermons," was published in quarto in 1G36, but is now but little known, the
publication for which he is chiefly remembered being that entitled " Ka-ruiiaTnLa-nu
K 2
68 HISTORY OF SURREY.
KctTaTTTwrof. Tlie Dippers Dipt, ducked, and plunged over Head and Ears, at a Disputation
in Soutliwark." In that work, written during his imprisonment and printed in the year
of his decease, ho attacks the Anabaptists both by ridicule and argument, A portrait of
the author, and a singular design for a sepulchral monument to his memory, are attached to
it. In 1G60 it was reprinted, but with an altered title, and a frontispiece representing the
manner of dipping Anabaptist proselytes.
Dr. George Hooper, a native of Worcestershire, was elected from Westminster School
a student of Christ Church, Oxford, in 1657. At the university he became distinguished
for his acquaintance with mathematics, and Grecian, Roman, and Oriental literatiu'e. He
was successively Chaplain to Dr. Morley, Bishop of Winchester, and Archbishop Sheldon,
the latter of whom, in 1G75, bestowed on him the rectory of Lambeth. He was subse-
quently patronised by the Princess of Orange, who made him her almoner, and when
queen, in 1691, gave him the deanery of Canterbury. In 1703 he became Bishop of
St. Asaph, when he resigned the living of Lambeth. His last preferment was to the see of
Bath and Wells, which he held until his death in 1727. Bishop Hooper published several
works in defence of the Church of England, which, with a learned treatise on Ancient
Coins, Weights and Measures, and other pieces, were republished at Oxford, 1757, folio.
Dr. Edmund Gibson was born at Bampton, in Westmoreland, in 166 9. He entered as
a scholar at Queen's College, Oxford, in 1686, and while there he devoted himself to the
study of Anglo-Saxon antiquities, in which he was assisted by the learned Dr. George
Hickes. The result of his application appeared in an edition of the " Saxon Chi-onicle,"
with a Latin translation, published in 1692 ; and in 1694 was printed his translation of
Camden's " Britannia," with Additions. In 1713 appeared his " Codex Juris Ecclesiastici
Anglicani," a valuable collection of juridical information. He was more distinguished as
an editor than as an original writer. However, he published many tracts in defence
of High Church principles, which proeiu'ed him much temporary celebrity, but are now
nearly forgotten. His pastoral letters in defence of Christianity have been often reprinted.
Dr. Gibson was inducted to the rectory of Lambeth in 1703. He was also Archdeacon of
Surrey, and was raised to the bishopric of Lincoln, vacant by the translation of Dr. Wake
to Canterbury in 1715. On the death of Dr. Eobinson in 1720, he succeeded him as
Bishop of London, and he presided over that diocese twenty-eight years, dying in 1748.
Beilby Porteus, D.D., was born at York in 1731. He was admitted a sizar at Christ's
College, Cambridge, where he distinguished himself by gaining the Seatonian prize for a
poem " On Death" in 1757. In 1762 he became Chaplain to Archbishop Seeker, who in
1767 gave him the rectory of Lambeth. In 1769 he was appointed Chaplain to the King,
LAMBETH. 69
and Master of the Hospital of St. Cross, near "Wiuchestcr. lie was raised to tlio bishopric
of Chester in 177G, and in 1787 translated to that of London. lie died in 1808. The
works of Bishop Poi'teus were published, Avitli an account of his life, by his nephew, the
Ecv. Eobert Hodgson, in six volumes octavo, 1823. Ilis Lectures on St. Matthew's
Gospel and a tract on the Evidences of Christianity have been often rcjmnted.
Dr. George D'Oyly, the fourth son of the Yen. Matthias D'Oyly, Archdeacon of
Lewes, and brother to Sir John D'Oyly, Bart., was some time one of the Examining
Chaplains of the Archbishop of Canterbury. He was connected with all the more
important religious societies, and the foundation of King's College, London, is generally
understood to have been the result of suggestions cmanatmg from him. In 1821
Dr. D'Oyly published a Life of Archbishop Sancroft. He also brought out, jointly with
the late Bishop Mant, an annotated edition of the Bible in three vols, quarto. He died
in 1846.
The Eev. Charles B. Dalton, a son of the late Eev. William Daltou, Yicar of
Kelvedon, Essex, was a scholar of Wadham College, Oxford, where he graduated in
honours in 1833. He was successively Eeader at Lincoln's Inn and Chaplain to Bishop
Blomfield of London, whose daughter he married. He held the rectory of Lambeth from
184G do-rni to 1854, when he became Vicar of Highgate, which he resigned in 1878.
Lambeth Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is mentioned in the Doomsday Book, but of
that edifice there are no remains. In 1374, as appears from "Wykcham's Eegister at
Winchester, a commission was issued to proceed against " such of the parishioners as
refused to contribute towards the rebuilding and repairs of the church;" and in 1377
there was another commission " to compel the inhabitants to erect a tower for their
church, then newly rebuilt, and furnish it with bells." * The tower is yet standing, a
proof of substantial construction ; but the remainder of the fabric, as it now stands, dates
only from 1851. The church, with the exception of the tower, was first rebuilt within
one hundred and fifty years of its original foundation, and principally by subscription.
Archbishop Warham was a chief contributor to the building of the west end in 1519, and
the Leigh and Howard Chapels were erected in 1522. In 1769 an extensive reparation
took place, and those chapels were incorporated with the open parts of the church. Further
repair's and ornamental work were executed in 1844. This edifice was restored in 1851
according to the plans and under the direction of Mr. Philip Hardwick. Care was taken
that the outline of the original foundations should be preserved, and Avhen possible the
ancient stairs reproduced. It now consists of a nave, north and south aisles, chancel,
* E.-i=ter, Wiu. de Wykeluim, part iii. ful. 113, L, .ina ful. 10:2, c.
70 HISTORY OF SURREV.
chapels, and porch, the fine western to-\ycr remaiuiug nutonchcd. The arcades in
the nave have been carefully restored, and the walling above them has been carried up to
the original height and pierced with clerestory lights, the whole being surmounted by an
open timber roof divided into seven bays by arched trusses resting on the ancient corbels.
The chancel is divided from the nave, and the Iloward and Leigh Chapels from tho chancel,
by three lofty arches. The large east window, of five lights, filled with foliated tracery, is
furnished with stained glass. The west end of the church is lighted by a large circular
window filled with geometrical tracery, and the organ is placed immediately beneath it.
The embattled tower, which stands at the western extremity of the south aisle, and forms a
eonsj)icuous object from the river, is of stone. It is 87 feet in height, and consists of four
stories, the third story containing a clock, and the uppermost a peal of eight bells.* At
the south-west corner was originally a beacon, as shown in Hollar's view of Lambeth
Talace, engraved about 1G47. At the south-east angle is an octagonal tim-et rising from
the ground, and enclosing a spiral staircase leading to the roof. The nave is divided
from the aisles by foiu- pointed arches supported by octagonal columns.
On the south side of the chancel, in the middle compartment of a window of three
lights, was formerly the figure in stained glass of a pedlar and his dog, traditionally said
to be that of a person who gave the ground called Pedlar's Acre, near "Westminster Bridge,
to the parish, for leave to bury his dog in the churchyard.f Aubrey makes no mention
* It appears from the cliurcliwardeii's accounts that " tlie olde great bell that was broken in 1598 did contain in
weighte xiiii cwt. one C|uarter, and xxii lbs." The bells were recast in 1723 : an inscription on the third bell says,
" There is cast in this bell 24 King William's half crowns." On tlie sixth is, " There is cast in this bell six King
William's crowns." In the lower story of the tower, which opens to the south aisle, is a very luuidsome pointed-arched
window of several divisions.
t The progressive and vast increase in the value of land in the vicinity of London during the last three
hundred years is strikingly sho^^■n by the circumstances recorded of Pedlar's Acre ; yet in what manner that piece of
ground came into the possession of the parish — imless as a pedlar's gift, as traditionally specified — is wholly unknown.
It is closely adjacent to the east end of Westminster Bridge, and gave name to the first street on the south side of the
bridge road leading to Narrow Wall. According to an old admeasiuement it contained 1 acre 17 poles, having an extensive
frontage on tbe river Thames. In 1504 it was called the Church Hoppys, or Hope, and, as appears from the church-
wardens' accounts for that year, was then an ozier bed. In 1623 it was known as the Church Oziers, and either by that
name or as the Church Hope it was distinguished, as Mr. Nichols informs us in his history of this parish, " till 1690,
when in a lease of it, dated August 6, it is for the first time called Pedlar's Acre."
In 1504 and 1505 the annual rent of this estate was 2s. 8d. ; in 1506, 4s. ; in 1520, 6s. ; in 1556, 6s. 8d. ; in 1564,
13s. 4d. ; in 1581, £\. Gs. 8d. ; and in 1651, £\, at which sum, or with little increase, except as to small or fresh leases, it
continued until the commencement of the last century, but was afterwards greatly raised. The draining of Lambeth
Marsh, the erection of the bridges of Westminster and Blackfriars, and the formation of new roads in consequence, much
augmented the value of this property, which in 1752 was held on a long lease at the yearly rent of £100 and a fine of
£800. In 1813 nearly the whole of the Pedlar's Acre, then much built upon, was divided into three distinct parcels, or
lots, and set up for auction, when leases were granted of each lot for the term of twenty-one years at the respective
premiums of £2,300, and £12 per annum ; of £2,000, and £46 per annum ; and of £1,700, and £20 per annum. In 1824
some attempts were made to sell or mortgage this estate, with a view of applying the proceeds to the erection of a chapel,
&c., which did not meet the general concurrence of the parishioners. This led to an appUoation to Parliament in 1826,
when an Act (7 George IV. cap. 46) was passed for vesting tlie Pedlar's Acre in trustees in fee-simple, viz. in the rector
LAMBETH. 7,
of the tradition, wLioli lias possibly bccu invcutcd siucc his time, but speaks of there
being " the Portraitures of a Pedlar (and his Dog), who was a considerable benefactor to
this parish, whom he has obliged to keep in repair this picture from time to time." * The
parish, however, did not acknowledge such obligation, though the following entries in the
churchwardens' books would scorn to have reference to some undertaking of that kind : —
£ .. d.
1607. raid to the glazier fur a panncU of glass for the wiiuljw where the
Picture of the Pedlar stands 0 2 0
1703, March 6. Paid Mr. Price for a new glass Pedlar 2 0 0
The sepulchral memorials, as might be expected in so extensive and populous a parish,
are very numerous, both in the church itself and its attached yard, as well as in the
capacious burial-ground in the Iligh Street. Many of the more ancient inscriptions
recorded by Aubrey have long been taken away or destroyed. Wc can here only briefly
notice those of the most interest, referring, for further particulars, to the accounts of
Aubrey, Nichols, Bray, and Allen. The monuments were, of course, shifted from the posi-
tions which they originally occupied when the rebuilding of the church took place in 1851.
Opposite to each other, near the cast end of the chancel, are two old tombs with
recessed obtuse arches above, within which are indents of small brass figiu-es, which have
been torn oflP. That on the north side was erected in memory of Hugh Peyntwin, LL.D.,
Auditor to Cardinal Morton and the Archbishops Deane and Warham, who died in 1501:.
The other commemorates John Mompesson, of Bathamptou Wyley, in Wilts, Esq., chief
of the domestics of Archbishop Warham, who died in 1525. f
On a brass plate (long removed) beneath the commimion-table was the following
epitaph for Cuthbert Tonstal, Bishop of Durham, Avritten by the celebrated scholar and
critic, Walter Haddon, and printed by Aubrey : —
Anglia Cuthbertdji Tuxstallum mcesta requirit,
Cujus gumma donii laus erat atque foris.
Ehetor, arithmeticus, jurisconsultus, et recjui
Legatusque fuit ; denique prfcsul crat ;
Annorum satur, et maguorum plenus honoruni,
Vertitur in cineres aureus iste senex.
Visit annos 8^ ; Obiit 18 Novcmb. 1559.+
and churchwardens for the time heiiig, and ten other rated inhabitants of the parish. Particular euactmeiits fur letting
the estate, either on the general leases for twenty-one years or on building leases for one hundred years, are contained in
the Act ; but the trustees are in no case to proceed in the execution of their trust except under the direction of the
vestry of Lamlieth. The proceeds of tbe estate must also be applied, under the orders of vestry, to parochial purposes.
* Aubrey, " Surrey," vol. v. p. 229.
t The arms of Peyntwin are— &6. three thistles, leaved and slipped, •prober; those of Mompesson— .^j-r/. a lion ramp.
nah. impaling crm. a lion pass, guardant gu. for Drewe.
X Cuthbert Tonstal, or Tiuistall, descended from an illustrious family, was a man of talent and leaiuiiig. He was
raised to the Idshopric of London iu 1522, and in 1530 translated to that of Durham. Though like Lee, Gardiner,
72 HISTORY OF SURREY.
In tlie cliancel also was interred another Catholic confessor, the fellow-prisoner of
Tonstal. This was Thomas Thirlebye, or Thirlby, made Bishop of Westminster on the
foundation of that see by Henry YIII. ; he was afterwards Bishop of Norwich, and, as
the inscription on his tomb purported, subsequently translated to Ely. Eefusing to
concur in the ecclesiastical arrangements which took place under Queen Elizabeth, he was
deprived, imprisoned in the Tower, and subsequently at Lambeth, where he died in 1570.*
Within the communion-rails is a large slab of blue marble inscribed in memory of
Archbishop Bancroft, who died in 1610. Another slab in the middle of the chancel
covers the remains of Archbishop Tcnison, who died in 1715; also of Anne, his wife.
A handsome monument of white and veined marble, of a pyramidal form, surmounted by
an urn and shield of arms, commemorates Archbishop Ilutton and his wife Maria : he
died in 1758, and the latter in 1779. Near the east window is a memorial for Archbishop
Cornwallis, who died in 1783. Above the latter is a tablet, with this inscription :—
In menioric: of Anthony Burleigh, third son of John Burleigh, late of the Isle of Wight, Esq., who was
Lieut.-Gen. to K. Charles I. of blessed memorie ; and was put to death at Winchester, the 26th of January,
1647, for endeavouring to release his sacred Majesty, then prisoner in Carishroke Castle. His two elder
brothers were slaine at Worcester-fight, in the forces of his present Majesty K. Charles II. this being the last of
that loyal family, except his truly loving and sorrowful sister, who caused this monument to be erected. Obiit
17" die Feb. anno Dni 1681, tetatis su£e 48. Spe resurgendi.
Near Mompesson's tomb is a marble pedestal, surmounted by a bust of white marble,
finely executed by Chantrey, of the late Thomas Lett, Esq., of this parish, and St. Peter's,
in the Isle of Thanet. He Avas an active magistrate, and High Sheriff of Surrey in 1817.
Ho died in 1830.
On the opposite side of the chancel is the mural monument, in black and white marble,
of Eobert Scott, Esq., of which the central part exhibits a well-executed bust, within a
circular recess, surrounded by sculptures of artillery, military weapons, &c., in flat relief.
Bonner, and some other prelates, he repudiated the political authority of the Pope in the reign of Henry VIII., yet he
steatlfastly opposed the alterations in the constitution of the Church of England which took place during the minority of
Edward VI. He was consequently deprived of his episcopal dignity, and threatened with still harsher treatment by the
more zealous Protestants ; but Cranmer, highly to his credit, on this occasion opposed the proceedings of the Bishop's
enemies. On the accession of Queen Mary he was restored to his see, but after Elizabeth ascended the throne he was a
second time deprived, and during the short remainder of his life he resided, as a kind of prisoner at large, in the family
of Archbisliop Parker at Lambeth.
* It appeared, from a discovery made on opening a grave for the interment of Arclibishop Cornwallis in 17S2, that
the body of the ex-Bishop Thirlby must have been embalmed, or at least subjected to some antiseptic process, which had
preserved it from decomposition for more than two hundred years. A leaden coffin was found in wliich the body of the
deceased had been placed after being wrapped in lead. It was covered with fine linen, still moist with some liquid which
emitted the odour of hartshorn. The flesh had the appearance of mummy ; the face was perfect, and the limbs flexible ;
the beard was very long and beautifully white. The cap, which was of silk, probably black, had lost its colour. A
slouched hat with strings was under the left arm. There was also a cassock, so fastened as to appear like an apron with
strings. The remains of Archbishop Cornwallis having been deposited in an adjoining grave, the spot has been covered
with an arch of brickwork. (Nichols's " Appendix to History of the Pariijh of Lambctli," No. xxii.)
LAMBETH. 73
The pediment is surmounted by a shield of arms and crest, and at the base is this
[ascription : —
Nere to this place lyeth interred the body of Robert Scott, Esq., descended of the ancient llarrons of
Bawerie in Scotland. He bent hiniselfe to travell and studie much; and amongst many otlier thingcs he
invented the leather ordnance, and carried to the King of Sweden 200 men, who after two yeares .service, fur hiii
worth and valour, was p'ferred to the office of quarter-master-generall of his Majesty's army, which he possessed
for tliree yeares ; from thence with his favour he went into Denmarke (where he was advanced to be general of
that King's artillerie) there being advised to tender liis service to his own prince, which he doinge, his Majestie
willinglie accepted, and p'fered him to be one of the gent, of the most honourable privie chamber, and rewarded
him with a pencion of .£600 per annum. This deservinge spirit, adorned with all endowments befitting a
gentleman, in the prime of his floiu-ishinge age surrendered his soule to his Redeemer, 1631.
Of his great worth to knowe who seeketh more,
Must mount to Heaven, where he is gone before.
Arras: — Or, three lions' heads, erased gu. ; imp. mrt, a greyhound .springant, arg.
On a grave-slab near that of Tenison is a brass representing the figure in plate armour,
■with a skirt of mail, but without helmet, of Thomas Clere, Esq., son of Eobert Clere, Knt.,
of the county of IN'orfolk, who died in 1545. This was originally upon a tomb (long
destroyed), over which hung a written tablet, with the subjoined lines (preserved by
Aubrey), composed by the celebrated Earl of Sui-rey : —
Norfulke sprung Thee, Lambeth holds Thee dead,
Clere, of the Count' of Cleremont thou bight :
' Within the Wombe of Ormond's Race thou bred
And sawest thy Cosin crowned in thy sight.
Shelton for Love, Surrey for Lord thou chase ;
Aye me, while Life did last, that League was tender,
Tracing whose Steps thou sawe.st Kelsall blase,
Laundersey bum't, and batter'd Bulleyn's render.
At Muttrell gates, hopeless of all recure.
Thine Earle, haK dead, gave in thy Hand bis AVill ;
Which Cause did Thee tliis pining Death procure
Ere Summers four times seven thou couldst fullfiU.
Aye Clere, if Love had booted Care or Cost,
Heaven had not wonne, nor Earth so timely lost.
Arms, also in brass: — Quarterly, 1st and 4th, on a fess three eaglets displayed, impaling 2nd and 3rd,
a cross moline ; a crescent for difference.
There was another curious brass on a grave-slab in what was formerly called the
Howard Chapel, erected in 1522 by Thomas Howard, second Duke of Norfolk, Earl
Marshal and High Treasurer of England, buried here in May, 1524, and whose ancestors
had an ancient mansion at a short distance from the church. It represented the Lady
Katheriue Howard arrayed in a square head-dress and mantle of estate, whereon were the
arms and quart erings of the Howards, impaling those of Broughton (of Essex), this lady
being a daughter of Johu Broughton, Esq., and wife of Lord "William Howard (eldest son
of the above duke by his second wife), afterwards Baron of Effingham, and Lord High
Admiral of England. She died in 1535. Both Lord William and his second wife. Lady
VOL. III. L
74 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Margaret Howard, were sentenced by Henry VIII. to perpetual imprisonment for con-
cealing the misdeeds of Queen Catherine Howard, his lordship's niece ; but they were
afterwards pardoned.
Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Edrrard Stafford, and second wife of Thomas, tliird Duke
of Norfolk, from whom, however, she was long separated, was likewise interred here in
1558. In a poetical inscription written by her brother Henry, Lord Stafford, she was
styled the " good Dutchesse," and highly praised for her sisterly affection and virtue.*
Several other members of the Howard family were interred here ; also Mrs. Margaret
Parker, wife of the Archbishop, Avho had purchased Norfolk House early in Elizabeth's
reign. She died in 1570.
In the Leigh Chapel, originally erected in 1522 by Sir John Leigh, K.B., sou of
Ealph Leigh, Esq., lord of the manors of Stockwell and Levehurst in Stockwell, that
gentleman, Avho died in 1523, was himself buried, together with his wife Isabel ; but
his tomb, on which were inlaid brasses of himself and lady, was long ago destroyed.
In the pavement, at the entrance to the robing-room, is a large slab in memory of
Elias Ashmole, the well-known herald and antiquary. The inscription, now almost
obliterated, was as follows : —
Hie jacet inclytus ille & erviditissimus Elias Ashmole, LielifelcUensis, Arniiger. Inter alia in republica
munera, tributi in cerevisias contrarotnlator, fecialis autem Windsoriensis titulo per annos plurunos dignatus :
qui post connubia, in iixorem duxit tertiam, Elizabetliam, Gulielini Dugdale, Militis Garteri, principalis regis
amiorum, Filiam. Mortem obiit 18 Mali, 1692, anno <etatis 76 ; sed durante Musseo AshmoUano Oxon. nunquam
moriturus.
In the south aisle is a small mural monument of freestone, exhibiting incised kneeling
figures before an altar, on which are two open books, of Agnes Tydnam, her two husbands,
Thomas Marshall and John Mannynge, and three sons and three daughters : she died in
1583. Against the west wall is a neat marble tablet in memory of Signora Storace, whose
vocal abilities had long been the delight of the frequenters of the drama. She died at
Heme Hill, in this parish, after a fcAV years' retirement from the stage, in 1817. Against
the north wall is a tablet of white marble enchased in black, commemorative of Peter
DoUond, Esq., an eminent optician, eldest son of John Dollond, E.E.S., the inventor of the
achromatic telescope. He died in 1820.
Against the walls of the under part of the tower are afSxed six large tables of benefac-
tions made for various purposes to the poor inhabitants of this parish.
Of the numerous sepulchral memorials in the chm-chyard, that exciting the most
interest is the tomb of the Tradescants, of South Lambeth, erected by Hester, the widow
* A curious biographical memoir of this lady appeared in the GcnihwmCs Magazine for March, 1845, pp. 259 — 267.
LAMBETH. 75
of John Tradescant the younger, after his interment hero in lGu2. This tomb having
become very much dihipidated, and the inscription ahnost illegible, was repaired in 1773 ;
and this, having in turn fallen into decay, was again entirely restored by subscription in
1853. On the covering slab the subjoined verses arc incised: —
Know, Stranger, ere thou pass, — beneath this stone,
Lye John Tradescant, gmndsire, father, son;
The last dy'd in his spring ; the other two
Liv'd till they had travell'd Art & Nature through.
As by their choice collections may appear,
Of what is rare, in land, in sea, in air ;
Whilst they, (as Homer's Iliad in a nut),
A world of wonders in one closet shut.
These famous Antiquarians that had been
Both Gardeners to the Rose & Lily Queen,
Transplanted now themselves, sleep here ; and when
Angels shall with their trumpets waken men.
And fire shall purge the world, these hence shall rke,
And change this Garden for a Paradise.*
The sculptures around the tomb, of which engravings were given in the Philosojj/tical
Transactions, vol. Ixiii., from drawings in the Pepysian collection, liave been restored in
accordance with the original design.
* The Tradeseants were distinguished as naturalists, and their collection contributed to tlie foundation of that
curious assemblage of natural and artificial curiosities which became the basis of the Ashmoleau Museum at Oxford.
The elder Tradescant, who by birth was either a Dutchman or a Fleming, after having travelled through various parts of
Europe and visited Egj-pt and other Eastern regions in pursuit of scientific information, at length settled in England, and
obtained the office of Gardener to Charles I., by whom, and by his queen and court, he was much patronised. There is a
tradition that his zeal for the improvement of horticulture induced him to embark on board a privateer fitted out to
cruise against the Algerine Corsairs, in order that he might have an opportunity for procuring a new variety of apricot
from North Africa. Parkinson, in his " Garden of Pleasant Flowers," printed in 1656, mentions "the Argier, or AJgicr
apricot," as having been brought to England by John Tradescant on his return from a vo3'age in a fleet sent against
pirates in 1620. Various other fruits and flowers were introduced into this country by the same enterprising naturalist.
Mr. Tradescant resided in a large house at South Lambeth, where he kept his collection of curiosities, and where he
died at an advanced age, either in 1652 or 1653. After the decease of his son and of the widow of the latter, that
dwelling came into the possession of Elias Ashmole, the proprietor of the Tradescant Museum: "he added a noble
room to it, and adorned the chimney with his anus, impaling those of Sir William Dugdale, ■whose daughter was his
thu'd wife."
John Tradescant the younger seems to have inherited the taste, if not the enterprising talents of his father. Wliethcr
he made any considerable additions to his stock of ciuiosities is uncertain, but there can be no doubt but that he paid
due attention to their preservation and anangement. This house, apparently from the abundance and heterogeneous
character of its contents, was called " Tradescant's Ark." In 1656 he published an account of hia treasures under the
title of " Museum Tradescantianum : or a Collection of Rarities preserved at S. Lambeth, near London, by John Trades-
cant," 12mo. By his wife Hester he had an only son, who died in 1652. After this, having no surviving offspring,
and becoming anxious to provide for the preservation of the museum on which so much time, Labour, and skill had been
expended, he determined to transfer it, after his decease, to his friend and next neighbour, Ashmole, whose similarity of
taste he might have regarded as a security for the protection of his treasures from dispersion. The antiquary has
recorded the donation in his " Diary," under the date December 12, 1659. He says, " Mr. Tradescant and his -wife told
me that they had been long considering upon whom to bestow their closet of curiosities when they died, and at last
resolved to give it unto me." In the same record he subsequently states that the property was secured to him by a deed
of gift. The donor died in 1662. Mrs. Tradescant, his widow, was found drowned in a pond in her own garden or
orchard in 1677.
L 2
^6 HISTORY OF SURREY.
The tomb of William Bligh, F.E.S., Vice- Admiral of the Blue, "the celebrated
Navigator who first transplanted the Bread-fruit Tree from Otaheite to the West Indies,"
is of a Grecian character, and crowned by a blazing urn. Admiral Bligh died in 1817.
His wife and others of his flimily lie buried in the same vault.
Before the Eeformation there were several altars in this church besides the principal
one dedicated to the Virgin Mary, its titular saint, namely, those of St. Thomas, St.
George, St. Christopher, and St. Nicholas. A guild, or brotherhood, was attached to the
altar of St. Christopher, and in the churchwardens' accounts for 1522 is entered a pay-
ment of 4s. 8d. for a banner of that saint. The same accounts show that lights were kept
burning before the image of each saint; and in July, 1522, the then large sum of
£3 6s. 8d. was " received of the dutches of Norfolk for the Vyrgin lyghtt." In the
preceding year "my Lady of Norfolke" paid to the churchwardens £1 12s. S^d. of
"Hock money." *
Among the boys belonging to the choirs of churches and cathedrals it was an ancient
custom to elect one of their number a bishop, and another a dean, on St. Nicholas Day, and
lead them in procession in full canonicals. It is not extraordinary, therefore, as there was
an altar to St. Nicholas in this church, that the ceremony of choosing a boy -bishop should
be observed on his festival, and in the accounts for 1522 and 1523 there are several items
relating to the ceremonial.
Among the entries of the time of Philip and Mary are the payments of 4d. to the
ringers when the Queen's grace came into Lambeth Church ; and of 6d. to the ringers
when " ty dings came that the Queue was brought a bed." f
The following instances of longevity are entered in the Eegisters of this parish : —
November 4, 1704, buried Joana Keys, widow : 104 at her death.
Jan. 8, 1738-9, Elizabeth Bateman, aged 102, from Kennington-laue, buried.
Jan. 22, 1788, William Cobb, aged 101 years, buried.
Jan. 4, 1803, Elizabeth Ramsey, of Church-street, aged 107, buried.
May 2, 1807, Mary Erauklin, of Britannia-row, aged 102, buried. .
* The custom of collecting oke money, or hock money, for charitable purposes by the men and women separately,
appear-s to have generally prevailed before the Eeformation. The following entries are from the churchwardens'
tooks : —
£ s. d.
1515. Received of the men for oke money 0 5 7
of the wyffs for oke money 0 15 1
1516. Received of the gaderynge of Churchwardens' weyffes on Hoke
Monday 0 8 3
t Ilolinshed states that this false rumour of the Queen's delivery caused " the bells to be roong, and bonefires to be
made, not onely in the citie of London, but also in sundrie places of the realme." — (Ghronick, anno 155C.) The Queen
indeed had been altogether deceived by her own feelings, as she had never been pregnant.
LAMBETH. 77
The subjoiucd arc from other authorities : — ■
June 28, 1V36, died Mr. Tliomas Drayman at Vauxhall, in the 106tli year of liis age. He had Leon a Surgeon
in the Royal Navy. He wrote a very good liand, and had a quick ear, and good sight to tlie last.
Jan. 20, 1743, Mr. "O-'ills died at Lambeth, aged 102.
Apr. 1743, Mr. Horn, formerly an eminent grocer in Southwark, died at Stockwell, aged 102.
May 16, 1749, Mrs. Hellings, widow, died at Lambeth, aged 103 years.
June, 1777, Mrs. Margaret Baise, widow, died at Stockwell, aged 107.
In High Street, formerly called the Back Lane, is a large burial-ground, givcu to the
parish by Archbishop Tcnison, and consecrated in 1705. Several of those -who have
memorials in the church were interred in this ground ; among them Mr. Peter Dolloud,
the optician, and Alderman Goodbehero. Mr. Thomas Cooke, the translator of Hesiod
and Terence ; Ed-svard Moore, author of " Fables for the Female Sex " and the
"Gamester;" William Milton, an eminent engraver; Jeanue St. Eymer de Yalois,
Countess de la 3Iotte, who fled to England after her escape from the Couciergerie, where
she had been imprisoned for her participation in the mysterious plot of the diamond
necklace ; Mr. Eobert Barker, the inventor of the panorama ; and that talented minera-
logist and naturalist, Mr. James Sowerby, F.L.S., were also interred here.*
At the north corner of Calcot Alley resided the far-famed Francis Moore, original
author of " Moore's Almanack," the first of which appeared in 1698. He followed the
joint occupations of astrologer and schoolmaster, and possibly also iiractiscd as a physician,
being so styled on his almanac. Simon Forman, another astrologer, but of far greater
celebrity than Moore, was also an inhabitant of Lambeth, where his burial, as entered in
the parish Eegister, took place in 1611. He died suddenly when in a boat on the Thames,
on a Thursday, having, according to Lilly, prognosticated the time of his decease when in
full health on the previous Sunday. t Another of this class, Capt. Bnbb, contemporary
with Forman, lived in Lambeth Marsh, and "resolved horary questions astrologically."
His science, however, only raised him to the pillory, and he ended his days in disgrace.
Norfolk House. — As early as the reign of Edward I. the Earls of Norfolk had a
mansion at Lambeth near the church ; but Eoger Bigod, the fifth and last earl of that
family, having given offence to the King by refusing to join in one of his continental
expeditions in 1297, had his lands seized by the King's officers. Though temporarily
restored in 1302 (but with a restriction of teniu-e as to issue), his lands and honours
became vested in the Crown on his decease without issue in 1307. In 1312 the earldom
* All the above persons had resided in this parish. Jlr. Cooke died in extreme poverty in 1757 ; Mr. Moore in the
same year ; Wm. MUton in 1790 ; the Countess in 1791 ; Mr. Barker in 1806 ; and Mr. Sowerby in 1822.
t LiUy, " Life and Times," p. 42, edit. 1822. He also says that Forman OTote in a book left behind him, " This I
made the devil write with his own hand in Lambeth Fields, 1569, in June or July, as I now remember."
78 HISTORY OF SURREY.
of Norfolk, with its attached estates, was bestowed on Thomas de Brotherton, the eldest
son of Edward I. by his second consort, Margaret of France. From that prince the
Lambeth property descended, with the Norfolk title, through the Mowbrays to the family
of Howard. In the reign of Henry YIII., when the mansion belonged to Thomas Howard,
the third Duke of Norfolk, it was the residence of his son, the celebrated Earl of Surrey,
then a youth, and under the tuition of John Leland the antiquary, who notices the circum-
stance in his notes on the " Cygnea Cantio."
The Duke, being prosecuted for alleged treason, was convicted and sentenced to death,
and the warrant for his execution actually signed ; yet he was preserved from impending
destruction by the opportune decease of his ungrateful master, Henry VIII., on the night
previous to the day assigned for his decapitation. His life was spared, but he was
attainted, and kept in prison during the reign of Edward YI., who granted his house at
Lumbeth, as a part of the Duke's forfeited estates, to the Marquis of Northampton. But
on the accession of Queen Mary the attainder of Norfolk was reversed, and his lands and
honours were restored. He died in 1554, and in 1 Elizabeth his grandson and successor
sold Norfolk House to Eichard Garth and John Dyster for £400, not long after which it
was conveyed to Mrs. Margaret Pai'ker, alias Harlestone,* the consort of the Archbishop of
Canterbury. The mansion itself was freehold, but part of the annexed estate was copyhold
of the manor of Lambeth. Mrs. Parker gave the whole to her younger son Matthew, who,
dying in 1574, left his wife Frances, daughter of Dr. Barlow, Bishop of Chichester,
enceinte of a son, who died when six months old, and the estate devolved on Matthew, son
of John Parker, the eldest son of the Archbishop, according to the provisions of the will of
his uncle. This gentleman, who obtained the honour of knighthood from James I. in
1603, married Joan, daughter of Dr. Eichard Cox, Bishop of Ely, and retired to Sitting-
bourne, in Kent, where his descendants settled.
Norfolk House, situated on the south side of Church Street, has been long demolished,
and a range of houses called Norfolk Row, and other buildings in Paradise Eow, together
with the distillery of Messrs. Hodges, now occupy the site of the house and grounds.
Cupee's Garden. — The Dukes of Norfolk, besides the Norfolk House estate, had a
garden in Lambeth on the bank of the Thames, afterwards styled Cuper's Garden. In
1636 it belonged to Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel, the representative of the ducal
family (distinguished as the munificent collector of the Arundelian marbles), who held,
* This was tlie maiden name of tlie latly in question, and it was introduced by way of precaution, because, as
Mr. Manning observes, " the legality of the marriage of priests was then hardly established, and it is well known that
Queen Elizabeth did not approve of it, as is testified by her very uncourteous speech to Mrs. Parker after having been
entertained by the Archbishop." — Sumij, vol. iii. p. 479.
LAMBETH. 79
together with this garden, the Priuce's Meadow, adjoining it on tlie cast.* In 1667
Mr. Henry Howard, afterwards Dnke of Norfolk, at the suggestion of Mr. Evelyn, gave
to the University of Oxford tbe most valuable of the inscribed stones and other sculptures
in his possession excepting the statuary. The latter remained at Arundel House, in the
Strand, until it was destroyed to make way fur new streets, when a portion of these
remnants was given to one Boydell Cuper, who had been the Earl's gardener, and who
rented the land called from him Cuper's Garden, and to this place the statues, &c., were
removed. Cupor opened his garden as a place of public entertainment, and, to attract
company, laid out walks and made arbours, which were decorated with the works of art
in question; but in 1717 they were sold by his son, John Cuper, for £75. Those pieces
of sculpture reserved by the Duke of Norfolk were sent across the Thames to a tract of
ground adjoining Cuper's Garden, for which he had a grant from the duchy of Cornwall.
This tract being afterwards occupied as a wharf and timber-yard, the level was raised by
overlaying it with large quantities of rubbish procured from the ruins of St. Paul's
Cathedral, then rebuilding by Sir Christopher Wren. The consequence was that these
remains were buried, and for a time forgotten; but in 1712 Mr. Theobald, who then
rented the ground, in digging to lay the foundation of buildings, disinterred some of the
fragments of ancient sctdpture, a part of which was removed by Lord Burlington to his
villa at Chiswick. Some years subsequently Lord Petre employed men to search and open
the ground, when six colossal and other statues, wanting the heads and arms, were
recovered and transferred to the Duke of Norfolk's seat at Worksop.-]" The premises held
by Mr. Theobald were occupied by Messrs. Lett as a timber-yard in 1811, when some
excavations being made for the construction of a dock, a colossal statue of a female and
other fragments of sculj)ture were brought to light. Cuper's, or Cupid's, Garden became
notorious for the profligacy of its visitants, and was suppressed in 1753, but the house
continued open as a tavern. The ground had been granted by one of the Norfolk family
to the master and fellows of Jesus College, Oxford, of Avhom, diu'ing many years in the
last and present century, it was leased by the Messrs. Beaufoy at an annual rent of about
£1,200, and it formed part of their large establishment for the manufacture of English
wines and vinegar, removed to South Lambeth on the erection of Waterloo Bridge. This
site is now occupied by the timber wharfs of Belvidere Eoad.
* In the possession of the late Mr. Bray was an old plan of part of the " Libertie of Oulde Parris Garden," in which
a plot of ground eastward of the King's barge-house is designated " the Earl of Arimdel's;" and nearer to Lambeth the
" Earl of Arundel's Walk " is marked by a double row of trees.
t From the several engravings of these mutilated fragments inserted by Dr. Rawlinson in the fifth volume cf
Aubrey's " Surrey," they would seem to have been executed in a- bold and vigorous style.
Bo HISTORV OF SURREY.
Carlisle House, anciently La Place. — On the piece of ground mentioned in the
preceding account of the manor of Lambeth {vide p. 43) as having been granted by
Aj-chbishop Hubert Walter to Gilbert de Glanville, Bishop of Eochester, the latter prelate
built a house for his own residence upon the site of an old dilapidated college near the
church, dedicated to the martyrs, St. Stephen and St. Thomas a Becket. Haymo do
Hethe, promoted to the see of Eochester in March, 131G, rebuilt the house, subsequently
called La Place, and thus designated until 1500, after which the bishops dated from their
house in Lambeth Marsh. This dwelling was so situated that access to it could scarcely
be obtained without trespassing on the archiepiscopal premises, which occasioned frequent
disputes between the officers and domestics of the respective prelates. At length, in 1357,
Archbishop Simon Islip granted to John Shepey, the successor of Hethe, a license to build
a bridge across a creek, or ditch, on the lands of the Archbishop at Stangate, for the
convenience of a more ready access from the Thames.
The last Bishop of Eochester who resided in this mansion was Dr. John Pisher, in
whose time a most execrable murder was committed by Eichard Eoose, or Eose, one of the
household servants. Stow thus relates this shocking occurrence: — "The 5th of Aprill,
1531, one Eichard Eose, a cooke, was boiled in Smithfield, for poisoning of divers persons,
to the number of 16 or more, at the bishop of Eochesters place, amongst the which Benet
Curwine, gentleman, was one ; and he intended to have poisoned the Bishoppe himselfe,
but hee eate no pottage that daie, whereby hee escaped." * Eoose was attainted of
treason and boiled to death by an ex i^ost facto law, which was passed in consequence of
his crime, but repealed in the next reign.
Nicholas Heath, who became Bishop of Eochester in 1540, conveyed this property to
Henry VIIL, in exchange for a house in Southwark. Not long after the King regranted
it to Eobert Aldrich, Bishop of Carlisle, in exchange for the premises where now stand
Beaufort Buildings, in the Strand. The Lambeth mansion hence acquired the appellation
of Carlisle House, though neither Aldrich nor any of his successors resided there. This
place was sold by order of Parliament in 1647 to Matthew Hardy for £220, but it
reverted to the Bishop of Carlisle at the Eestoration.
After that time Carlisle House was subjected to many vicissitudes. On a part of the
ground a pottery was built, Avhich existed in George II. 's reign; but the concern failed,
and the materials of the kilns, &c., were used to repair the surrounding walls. It then
Ijocame a tavern, and was subsequently opened as a dancing school by Monsieur Promont,
a celebrated master in that art, who endeavoured to get it licensed as a place of public
* Chronicle, p. 94:!.
entertaimuent, but iuoffectually, iu cousequcnce of tlic opposition of Arclibishop Sockcr.
It was next tenanted as a private dwelling, and afterwards converted into a school. In
1827 it was pulled dow:i, and the site and grounds covered with small houses, including
Allen and Homer Streets and parts of Carlisle Lane and Hercules Buildings.
In Carlisle Street, opposite to the site of the house just described, is the Church of the
Holy Trinity, erected from the designs of Edward Bloro, and consecrated in 18.30. It stands
upon a piece of ground that formed an angle of the kitchen garden of Lambeth Palace,
and was presented by the Archbishop of Canterbury. The cost was about £3,000. The
building is of Suffolk brick, and it is marked by extreme plainness. Its former galleries
Avere removed in 1871. The patronage is vested in the Eector of Lambeth. The district
assigned to this chapel, by order of her Majesty in Council in 1841, includes a population
of 0,000 persons and upwards, all residing within the compass of about half a mile.
A vicarage was built iu this parish in 1864, and National Schools were erected about
ten years previously.
The National (formerly Astley's) Amphitheatre. — This place owes its origin to
Mr, Philip Astley, one of the most distinguished exhibitors of feats of horsemanship
during the last century. He was a native of Newcastle-under-Lyme, the son of a cabinet-
maker, by whom he was taught his own business. But being of an enterprising dis-
position, he left home when a lad, and enlisted in General Eliott's regiment of Light Horse,
with which he served in Germany, where he obtained the reputation of a good soldier and
a bold and skilful rider. Ecturning to England after the war in 17G3, Astley commenced
the exliibition of feats of horsemanship, first in an open field in Lambeth (near Glover's
"Halfpenny Hatch," a locality now scarcely remembered), and meeting with success
(though at this time the possessor of two horses only — the one a charger given him by
General Eliott for his intrepidity and good conduct,* and the other bought in Smithfield),
he travelled through various parts of the kingdom, and acquired so much celebrity that ho
was enabled to found an establishment on a plot of ground near Westminster Bridge,
which afterwards became the site of the amphitheatre. This place, then called Astley's
Booth, was merely enclosed with boards, provided with seats for visitors, and sheltered
from the weather by a penthouse roof; but the spirited proprietor iu every successive season
endeavoured to increase the attractions of his amphitheatre, both by improved arrangements
* Iu tlie battle of EmsJorff Astley took a royal standard of France, though his horse was shot Under liini, but, being
lemounteJ, he brought off Iiis prize in despite of an escort of the enemy's infantry, at least ten in number, by wliom he
was wounded. At Friedberg he personally assisted, under a very heavy fire, in rescuing the Hereditary Prince of
Brunswick, when his Highness was wounded within the enemy's lines. At a subsequent period, during the revolutionary
war ^vith France, he was mainly instrumental in saving the Duke of York from being taken prisoner in Holland.
8z HISTORY OF SURREY.
for tlie accommodation of visitors and by adding feats of agility to tlie equestrian perform-
ances, and in 1773 lie erected a covered structure, wliicli was opened in the beginning
of the ensuing year, and was known as the Amphitheatre Eiding-House.
Assisted by his son and other performers, in 1780 he commenced a winter season with
feats of horsemanship, mixed with other novel and attractive exhibitions. He subse-
quently had to encounter the rivalry of Hughes, the founder of the Eoyal Circus, who, in
conjunction with Charles Dibdiu, the song writer and vocalist, proposed to combine
equestrian exhibitions with dramatic or melodramatic entertainments. Astley then, in the
beginning of 1784, built a stage, and having re-decoratcd his amphitheatre in a new style,
opened it as the Eoyal Grove.
After an active management of twenty years, Mr. Astley, in 1792, resigned the Eoyal
Saloon, as it was then termed, to his son, and the undertaking was prosjDcrously con-
ducted under his direction until 1794, when the building was destroyed by fire. Unde-
pressed by this calamity, the elder Astley, then on the continent serving as a volunteer
in the army of the Duke of Tork, obtained leave of absence and returned to England,
where ho exerted himself so effectually that a new building on the same site as the former,
and called the Amphitheatre of Arts, was opened to the public on Easter Monday, 1795.
Another fii-e took place in 1803, destroying property to the amount of £30,000 ; but the
most lamentable circumstance was the loss of Mrs. Smith, the mother-in-law of Astley the
younger, who was burned to death in the dwelling-house, in consequence (as supposed) of
retui-ning for a sum of money deposited in the bedroom. When this happened the
elder Astley was at Earis, and on the eve of being kept as a detenu under Eonaparte's
Milan decree ; but he escaped by stratagem, and again by his vigorous exertions caused
the amphitheatre to be rebuilt, and opened on Easter Monday, 1804. Several members
of the company were afterwards admitted to a share in the concern Avith young Astley,
and under their united management equestrian spectacles were first introduced on the-
stage, and they have ever since continued to form a part of the regular entertainments.
In 180G Mr. Astley, sen., erected the Olympic FavUion, in Wych Street, Druiy Lane,
that being the last of nineteen places of entertainment which he had built in the course of
his eventful career. He died at Earis in 1814 ; and his son and successor died in the
same house, chamber, and bed in which his father had expu-ed, in 1821 : they were
both interred in the cemetery called Eere-la-Chaise, in the above city.*
* ViHi Brayley's " Theatres of London," pp. 58 — 64, a book whicli contains some singular particulars of the career of
the elder Astley. His ground landlord (a timber merchant), of whom he iii'st rented the site of the amphitheatre, had
a preserve or breed of pheasants near the spot.
LAMBETH.
83
DuriBg the ucxt tlircc j-cars the spectacles vrcro couducted by Mr. W. Davis, who hud
been joint lessee with j'oung Astley, and the jilace was known as Davis's Amphitheatre.
His interest expired in 1824, and shortly after a new lease was taken by the celebrated
equestrian, Andrew Ducrow, Avho was born at the Xag's Ilcad, in the ]]or6iigh, in 1793,
at which time his father, Peter Ducrow, a native of Bruges, was a -performer in Astley 's
company, and called the "Flemish Hercules," from his activity and feats of strengtli.
Subsequently Mr. West became a partner with Ducrow, and their conjoined efforts were
accompanied by complete success until 1841, when the building was again destroyed by
a fire, caused by the falling of some ignited wadding below the stage during the discharge
of cannon in a piece called the Wars of Cromwell. On this occasion a female servant
perished in a similar manner to young Astley's mother-in-law — from returning to rescue
some property in her bedchamber. Except three horses, the whole of the stud was saved,
but all else was destroyed. This catastrophe had a fatal effect on the already declining
health of Ducrow, who became mentally deranged, and died of paralysis in 1842. He was
buried in the cemetery at Kcusal Green. His funeral was a public one, and conducted
with much equestrian solemnity.
In 1841 the vacant site, with other ground, was taken on a long lease by Mr. William
Batty, who in the following year erected a new amphitheatre, much larger, more
substantially built, and more unique in its appointments than any of the preceding ones.
The general designs for its arrangement were suggested by Mr. Usher, who for many
years had been clown to the horsemanship. Messrs. Haward and jS'ixon were the chief
builders, by whom the exterior walls (previously raised) wore additionally strengthened,
and the internal work executed. At the same time opportimity was taken to connect the
Bridge Eoad with the Palace IN'ew Koad, by opening a new street adjoining to the eastern
side of the amphitheatre.
The interior, which is of the general horseshoe form and very lofty, exhibits much
elegance in its decorations. There is one fidl tier of boxes, in nine large divisions, fronting
the proscenium (three of which are private), and two half-tiers extending along the sides,
and ranging evenly with the gallery slips. The central box, which has the regal arms in
front, remains as it was fitted up for the reception of her Majesty Qiieen Victoria, who,
with her royal consort Prince Albert, the young Prince of Wales, and the Princess
Eoyal, witnessed a special display of horsemanship here on the 24th of March, 184G.
Though the present theatre was constructed with both a stage and a circle for horse-
manship, the latter has been discontinued since 1863, when the theatre was remodelled by
Mr, Dion Boueicault. In 1873 the theatre was taken by Mr. Sanger, and the title of
m"2
84 HISTORY OF SURREF.
" Astley's " has disappeared from the bills. We have in its place " Sanger's Grand
National Amphitheatre."
Westminster Bridge. — Except old Loudon Bridge, no other connected the metropolis
-with the Surrey side of the Thames until that of Westminster was built, between 1738
and 1750. When the scheme of building a bridge at this spot had been approved, five
different sites were proposed for its erection. It was at length determined that it should
commence from the ancient wool-staple adjacent to New Palace Yard, and in a line with
the west side of St. James's Park.
Several Acts of Parliament were passed to regulate the proceedings, and provide
funds for the erection and support of tlie intended fabric, which was begun in 1738, from
the designs and under the superintendence of M. Chas. Labelye, a Swiss architect and
civil engineer, patronised, and probably brought to England, by Henry Herbert, Earl of
Pembroke, the chief of the parliamentary commissioners in whom the general management
had been vested. The first stone was laid in 1739, and the bridge was opened without
much ceremony, by torchlight, between twelve and one o'clock on the morning of Sunday,
November 17th, 1750. The work would have been finished much earlier but for the
sinking of one of the piers in 174.7, the partial rebuilding of which, with its adjoining
arches, caused a great delay. This arose from the plan adopted by the architect of
building the piers in caissons, or wooden cases, instead of piling the entire foundations.
This bridge was 1,223 feet in length, and 44 feet in breadth between the balustrades. 11
consisted of thirteen principal and two smaller arches, all semicircular, which sprang from the
piers at about two feet above the old low-water mark. The central arch was 76 feet wide,
but the principal lateral arches decreased in width by intervals of four feet each. Each
of the smaller arches, which connected the outermost piers with the abutments, was 25
feet wide. The entire water-way was about 870 feet. At each end of the bridge were
double flights of steps of moorstone leading to the river. The roadway across the
bridge was considerably lowered in 1843 and 1844, by which means from 20,000 to
30,000 tons of the weight on the arches were taken off, but the breadth of carriage-way,
in consequence of that removal, was reduced several feet.
Maitland, in his " History of London," says that the expense of constructing this
bridge was £389,500, being the gross amount of the profits of three lotteries, and of various
sums granted from the Exchequer by Parliament. Labelye, the architect, stated that the
net expenditure was £218,000.
A select committee of the House of Commons was appointed in 1848 "to consider the
present state of Westminster Bridge," &c., and report their opinion to the House, The
LAMBETH. 85
opinion of the committee, founded on the evidence of our most intelligent engineers, and
embodied in seven resolutions, was in substance as follows, viz. : — •
That the foundations having been originally vicious, the bridge can never be perma-
nently sound ; and that the expenditure of £70,000, as contemplated, for alterations and
repairs, would still leave the bridge in an insecure state, and render the water-way far less
adequate to the requirements of the navigation than at present. That, irrespectively of
the approaches, the expense of a new stone bridge, retaining the old one for temporary use,
would not exceed £360,000, towards which the bridge estates would probably afford a
clear surplus of £100,000. That Parliament, in addition to the money raised by lotteries,
having by du'ect grants from the Exchequer " furnished a large part of the expense of
erecting originally the present Bridge," and having declared it to be extra-parochial and
not a county bridge (9 Geo. 11. c. 29, sec. 20 & 21), maintainable as such bridges are by
county rates, "has recognised and sanctioned the principle that this Bridge shall be main-
tained, and when needful, repaired, restored, and rebuilt, at the expense of the State."
That, under these circumstances, the committee recommend that a new bridge be con-
structed, and " that a Bill be brought into Parliament next Session to transfer to the
Commissioners of Her Majesty's Woods, &c., the Estates and Property of the Bridge
Commissioners ; due consideration being had to the claims of the Officers of the Bridge
Estates, if theii* services should be discontinued." *
The new bridge at Westminster, which occupies the place of the old one, but which is
almost double the width, is a very handsome structure, built chiefly of iron. It was
commenced in 1S55 by IMr. Page, and completed in 18G2, the latter part of the work
having been carried out under the directions of the late Sir Charles Barry, the well-known
architect. The present bridge is 1,1G0 feet long, by 85 feet wide. It consists of seven
arches (the centre one having a span of 120 feet) resting on granite piers, the parapet and
ornamental portions having been designed to accord with the adjacent IIouscs of Parlia-
ment. The roadway is 53 feet wide, and the footways 15 feet: the former is divided into
going and coming roads, and has tramways or grooves for the wheels of the heavy
vehicles. The cost of construction of the present bridge was £206,000.
St. Thomas's Hospital. — At the foot of Westminster Bridge, and extendmg along the
banks of the river towards Lambeth Palace, is the new St. Thomas's Hospital, removed
hither from Southwark in 1870-71. The ground on which the hospital stands, between
8 and 9 acres in extent, was purchased from the Board of Works at a cost of about
* Viih Tliird Report of the Select Committee of the House of Commons on Westminster Eridge ami the New
Palace.
86 HISTORY OF SURREY.
£100,000. Nearly half of the site was reclaimed from the mud of the river. The
buildings have a frontage of about 1,700 feet in length, and are about 250 feet in depth.
The Hospital consists of eight distinct buildings, or pavilions. Six in the centre are for
patients ; that at the north end is for the officers of the Hospital, board-room, &c. ; that at
the south for a museum, lecture-room, and school of medicine.
The style of the buildings may be called Palladian, with rich facings of coloured bricks
and Portland stone. The entrance hall, facing the new Lambeth Palace Eoad, is a large
and spacious apartment. In it is a statue of the Queen, by whom the foundation stone of
the Hospital Avas laid in 1868, and the building opened in 1871. The statue, executed by
Mr. Noble, is sculptured out of a block of pure white Carrara marble, and weighs 5 tons.
The Queen is represented seated on a state chair, in her full robes of state, holding the
sceptre in her right hand and the orb in her left. The likeness of her Majesty is
considered excellent. The pedestal upon which the statue stands is of Sicilian marble,
beautifully moulded aud carved, with panels in the centre on each side. "Within the panel
immediately under the statue is the following inscription : — " Her Majesty Queen Victoria.
The gift of Sir John Musgrove, Bart., President, 1873."
There is a chapel which affords sittings for more than 300 persons ; there are large and
spacious surgeries and dispensers' offices, with ample house accommodation for chaplains,
resident surgeons, dressers, &c. Altogether the Hospital can make up 650 beds for patients,
and contains from first to last, in all its wards, houses, out-offices, kitchens, sculleries, &c.,
nearly 1,000 distinct compartments.
The plan of the whole is considered perfect. It is calculated that at least half a million
has been expended upon this splendid structure.
The space between the grounds of St. Thomas's Hospital and the river, extending
from Westminster to Lambeth Bridges, a distance of 2,200 feet, is filled in by a solid
embankment, which, commenced in 1866, was opened for pedestrians in the space of about
two years. The work, called the Albert Embankment, is continued beyond Lambeth
Bridge as far as the site of the London Gas Works, 2,100 feet higher up the river : it was
carried out by the Metropolitan Board of Works under the direction of Sir Joseph Bazal-
gette, and forms part of his design of embanking the Thames in its course through London.
Attempts at gardening have been made here in the vicinity of Lambeth Palace, but
the experiment has not been attended with much success. Trees, too, have been planted,
but these had afterwards to be removed, the exhalation from the adjacent potteries having,
it is supposed, destroyed their vitality.
Close by the principal gateway of Lambeth Palace, and uniting the Albert Embank-
LAMBETH. 87
meut witli Millbauk, is Larabctli Bridge, -wLiicIi lias superseded the old "liorsc ferry"
which for many years was the means of communication at this point. The bridge is con-
structed of ii-on, on the suspension principle, and was built in 18G2 : it has three spans of
280 feet.
Asylum for Female Orphans. — Shortly after the completion of old Westminster
Bridge and the formation of the roads leading to it on the Surrey side, an inn was built,
with extensive stabling and a spacious garden attached, upon an angle of Lambeth Marsh,
since called Mead Place. The ground (described as a close late in the tenure of John
Billington) belonged to the City of London under a grant from Edward VI, in 1551, it
having formed part of the possessions of Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk.* After a
little time the speculation failed, and the premises, distinguished by the sign of the
Hercules, were offered for sale. About this juncture Sir John Fielding (younger brother
of the celebrated novelist), who for several years was the chief police magistrate of the
metropolis, was endeavoming to found an institution for the maintenance and education of
female orphans. His views were aided by a committee of noblemen and gentlemen, and a
fund was raised sufficient both to buy the lease and fit up the premises, which were opened
for the reception of children in 1758.
The beneficial cftects of this institution were soon aj^parcnt, and it progressively
received so much support and patronage that the subscribers considered it expedient to
obtain a charter of incorporation. Accordingly in 1800 they were constituted a body politic
under the style of "The President, Vice-Presidents, Treasui-er, and Guardians of the
Asylum for Orphan Gii-ls, the settlements of whose parents cannot be found."
The original lease expiring about 1823, an application was made for a renewal; but, on
the Corporation of London requiring an annual rent of £800, it was deemed best to
purchase the freehold, which was done at the cost of nearly £16,000. In 1826 the Asylum
was rebuilt from the designs of Mr. Lloyd. The principal front consisted of a low uniform
body and wings (the latter projecting at right angles) of two stories, with a portico of the
Ionic order rising to the roof, sm-mounted by a small clock tower. The building was
pulled down a few years ago, and the institution removed to Beddington — the old
Elizabethan mansion of the Carews— near Croydon. The site was soon afterwards covered
by Christ Church, a large non-denominational Nonconformist chapel, erected to perpetuate
the work inaugurated by Eowland Hill at Surrey Chapel, in the Blackfriars Road. The
* Upon part of the gi-ouud twenty-five houses, forming a portion of Hercules Buildings, were also built. At a
subsequent time the elder Astley erected, behind the buildings, Hercules Hall for his own residence. This dwelling
continued for many years in the possession of his family, but was pulled down in 184L
83 HISTORY OF SURREY.
structure, a fine specimen of Gothic architecture, with a lofty tower and spire, was
completed in 1876. Adjoining Christ Church, and in an architectural sense forming
part of it, is another building, devoted to religious and philanthropic purposes, called
Hawkstone Hall, after the seat of Lord Hill, the head of Eowland Hill's family, in
Shropshii-e.
St. Thomas's Chuecii, in Westminster Bridge Eoad, was consecrated in 1857. The
edifice is built of brick, from the design of Mr. S. S. Teulon. It is of Gothic architecture,
and comprises a long and broad nave and chancel, with side aisles of two bays towards the
east, for galleries. As originally designed, the building was to have exhibited a modifica-
tion of the Dominican church at Ghent, but the estimates having been cut down, the
present appearance of the edifice was the result.
In the narrow winding thoroughfare called Lambeth Upper Marsh, on the left side
between the Westminster Bridge Eoad and Stangate Street, stands the Canterbury Hall,
the first music-hall established in the metropolis, which was opened by Mr. Charles
Morton in 1849.
Close by the Canterbui-y Hall, near the corner of Stangate Street, is the Bower
Saloon, a minor place of amusement, having a theatre and music-room attached.
The Manor of Faukes-hall or Vaux-hall. — This manor belonged, in the reign of
King John, to Baldwin de Eipariis, or Eedvers (called also De Insula, from his possession
of the Isle of Wight), son and heir of William, sixth Earl of Devon, who, dying before his
father, left by his wife Margaret, daughter and heiress of Warino Fitz-gerald, a son named
also Baldwin. Margaret, on whom this manor had been settled as part of her dower, was
re-married to Fulke de Breant thi-ough the favour of the King, under whom he acted as
one of the most active and unscrupulous instruments of oppression. In the reign of
Henry III. he was deprived of his estates and banished the kingdom for the commission
of an open and daring outrage. His wife endeavoured to obtain a divorce, but at length
his death set her at liberty, and she took for her third husband Eobert de Aguillon, lord
of the manor of Addington, whom she also survived. She died in 1292, and, from au
inquisition then taken, it appears that she held in dower, inter alia^ a messuage and garden
at Faukes-hall, value 2s. a year ; 80 acres of arable land, at 4d. an acre ; 19 of meadow at
3s. ; rents of assize of customary tenants, £14 10s. Ofd. ; and pleas and perquisites of court,
6s. 8d. : total, £21 14s. 6.fd.
Her son and grandson having both died before her, the estates of her family devolved
on her grand-daughter Isabella, married to William de Fortibus, Earl of Albemarle.
This Isabella had an only sm-viving daughter, Aveline, who in 1269 became the wife of
LAMBETH. 89
Edmimd Crouchback, Earl of Lancaster, the sccoud sou of Henry III.* After her decease
witliout issue, Edward I. entered into a treaty with, the okl Countess IsaLelhi, when on
her death-bed in 1293, for the purchase of her estates, comprising tlio Isle of "Wight, the
manor of Chi-istchurch, Hants, and the manors of " Lambyth and Eauhcshall," all of Avhieh
were eventually surrendered to him for the sum of 20,000 marks. This manor having
thus become vested in the Crown, Edward II. granted it, together with Ivenningtou, to
Eoger D'Amoric and his wife Elizabeth, coheiress of Gilbert dc Clare, Earl of Gloucester,
and his heirs. But as D'Amoric joined in the insuiTCction against the King, under
Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, in 1321, on its suppression he was attainted, and his estates
confiscated; but the latter appear to have been restored to his widow, who in 11
Edward III. obtained a grant of the manors of Ilketeshall and Clopliam in Suffolk, by
■way of exchange for Vauxhall and Kenningtou. The King in the same year granted the
manor of Vauxhall to his eldest son, Edward the Black Prince, who in 1351 gave it to
the monks of Canterbury, with a tenement at Lambeth, for the support of a chantry in
their cathedral. On the dissolution of the convent this manor reverted to the Crown ; and
in 1542 Henry VIII. settled it, together with Walworth, as a portion of the endowments
of the Dean and Chapter of Canterbury, to whom it has ever since belonged. The site of
the manor-house (long since pulled down), with adjacent groimds, was formerly demised
by two leases, one under the title of the " Manor," and the other of " Fauxhall Wharf; "
but a considerable part of the freehold was afterwards sold by the Dean and Chapter to
redeem the land tax.
Vauxhall Gardens. — An estate consisting of several copyhold tenements in the
manors of Lambeth and Kennington belonged to a family named Fauxe, or Vaux, in the
reigns of Elizabeth and James I. In 1C15 Jane Vaux, widow, held property of that
description here, and the mansion-house connected with it, a? appears from Lysons, was
called Stocdens. Mr. Nichols, in his "History of Lambeth Parish," has mistakenly
affirmed that Guy Vaux had a capital mansion here, and that it had the name of Vaux
Hall from him. He also says, in speaking of Jane Vaux, " it is highly probable that she
was the relict of the infamous Guy, who was executed in IGOG ; " but, as Mr. Bray
remarks, Guy Vaux could not have been the owner of the copyhold belonging to Jane
Vaux in 1615, for if she had been his widow it Avould have been forfeited as the estate
of a traitor. There is not, however, the least credible ground for supposing that cither
* Aveline and Crouchback were botli interred in 'WcstmLnster Abbey, where pplcndid monuineiita (now nmoli
deteriorated by time and wilful mischief) were erected to their memory, correct viev.'s of wliicli have been given in
Brayley and Neale's Illustrations of that edifice, vol. ii.
VOL. III. N
go HISTORY OF SURREY.
tlie estate or the lady ever pertained to that notorious personage.* She was, in fact, the
widow of John Yaux, a citizen and vintner of London, who by his will made in 1612
devised property for the erection of seven almshouses in this parish. Jane Vaux died in
1615, leaving two daughters her coheiresses, one of whom was then the widow of
Dr. William Barlow, Bishop of Lincoln.
At what time these premises were first opened as a place of public recreation is
uncertain ; but a patent is extant by which Simon Osbaldeston was appointed Keeper of
the King's garden, called Spring Garden, and of the bowling-green there, in 1631. It
would seem from that document that the garden had been made by the King's command,
but its situation is not mentioned, and both garden and bowling-green were " put down "
in 1634, from having '• grown scandalous and iutollerable." f Shortly after a new
Spring Garden was formed near the Mouse at Charing Cross, where a "fair house was
built, and two bowling-greens made to entertain gamesters and bowlers at an excessive
rate." %
■"" In an examination on the 7tli of November, 1605, in which for the first time he gave his real name, Guide or
Guy Fawke?, he stated that he " was bom in the city of York, and that his father's name was Edward Fawkes, a gentle-
man, a younger brother, who died about thirty years before, and left to him but small living, which he spent." The
correctness of this is verified by the following entry in the Register of St. Olave's, in Marygate, at York : — " Mr. Edward
Fawkes, Eegistrar and Advocate of the Consistory Court of the Cathedral Church of York, about forty-six years of age,
buried in the Cathedral Church, January 17th, 1578." (See Jardine's " Criminal Trials," vol. ii. p. 31.)
The house in which the consph-ators stored their powder and other combustibles during the digging of the mine
was certaiirly at Lambeth, and near the riverside ; but that house did not belong to any of them, it being merely hired
for their purpose in the summer of 1604. Robert Keyes, to whose keeping it was intrusted, was h.inged and quai'tered in
Old Palace Yard, together with Fawkes, Eookwood, and Winter the younger, on the 31st of January, 1606.
It is remarkable that neither liistory nor tradition has recorded the exact site of the conspirators' storehonse. Mr.
Nichols, indeed (writing ui the last century), assigned it to " that place now called Marble-hall and Cumberland tea-
gardens," which at the present time forms a part of the waterside premises connected with the station of the South-
Western Railway Company at Nine Ebns. But this was a mere inference, drawn from a svuwey of the manor of
Kennington made in January, 1715, iu which a "capital tenement called FausehaU" is marked as standing in the
situation above specified. That building was doubtless the old manor-house of Vauxhall, which our author erroneously
conceived to have belonged to Guy Fawkes, though thcio is not the least conciurent authority to corroborate such
opinion.
But if unacquainted with the spot whereon the building stood, we have the following evidence of its destruction by
fire. In an anniversary sermon preached at Lambeth Church by Dr. Featloy on November 5th, 1635, is this passage : —
" You have heard the miracles of God's providence in the discovery of this powder plot : behold now the mirrour of his
justice. The first contriver of tlie flre-workes first feeleth the flame ; his powder sin upbraids him, and fleeth in his face."
It is added in a note, " This last yeare, the house where Catesby plotted this treason in Lambeth was casually burnt do\viie
to the ground by powder."— Featley's Ckivis Mystira, p. 824, 4to, 1636.
+ " Stafford Papers," vol. i. p. 262. '■ There was kept in it an ordinary of 6s. a meal (when the king's proclamation
allows but two elsewhere), continued bibbing and drinking wine all day under the trees, and two or three quarrels every
week ; — besides, my Lord Digby being reprehended for striking in the king's garden, he .said, he took it for a common
bowling place, where all paid money for their coming in."
t Id. p. 435. In Evelyn's " Diary " is the follo^\-ing passage, which is remarkably corroborative of the above allusion
in the " Stafford Papers : " — " My Lady Gerrard treated us at Mulberry Garden, now y« onely place of refreslunent about
the to\vne for per.^ons of y° best equality to be exceedingly cheated at; CromweU and his partizans having shut up and seiz'd
on Spring Garden, w''' tUl now had ben y« usual rendezvous for the ladys and gallants at this season." (Vol. i. p. 274, under
the date May 10th, 1654.)
The earliest notice, perhaps, that can bo specifically assigned to Yaiixhall Gardens is
"by Evelyn, who -writes in his " Diary " (2nd July, 1661), '' I went to sec the New Spring
Garden at Lambeth, a pretty contriv'd plantation." "With this agrees the mention of " les
Jardins du Prin-temps" at Lambeth by Baltshasar Monconys (in liis "Voyage d'Anglctcrrc"),
a French traveller, who visited this country early in the reign of Charles II., but who
seems to have misunderstood the name, which has nothing to do with "le printemps,"
but refers to artificial jets of water. He speaks of them as being much frequented in
1663, and "having grass and sand walks dividing squares of 20 or 30 yards, inclosed with
hedges of gooseberries, within which were roses, beans, and asparagus." Aubrey, who in
one or two instances has been falsely quoted in respect to this place, states that Sir
Samuel Morland " built a fine Eoom at Vaux-hall, anno 1667, the inside all of Looking-
glass, and Fountains very pleasant to behold, which is much visited by Strangers ; it
stands in the middle of the Garden." He next mentions the house of the Tradescauts
at South Lambeth, and then says, "Without the new Spring-Garden is the remainder
of a kind of Horn-work, belonging to the lines of communication made about 1643-4." *
Lysons (citing an em'olment in the Duchy of Cornwall Ofliee) informs us that Sir
Samuel Morland in 1675 " obtained a lease of Vauxhall-house, made it his residence, and
considerably improved the premises ; " but he imagined that this lease referred to the
ancient Copt Hall, and regarded it as questionable whether Morland ever owned any part
of the Vauxhall Gardens. Mr. Bray, however, after observing that Sh- Samuel may have
derived the lease of his premises from the heirs of Jane Vaux, states, from the information
furnished by Mr. Barrett, one of the proprietors of Vauxhall in 1813, a circumstance
which proves that the dwelling then connected with the garden must have been that
belonging to Sir S. Morland. From the back kitchen of the house a lead pump was
removed about 1794, bearing Sir Samuel's mark, as shown in the margin.f
The room mentioned by Aubrey as having been erected by him is believed to
1 S
9 51
have stood where the orchestra was afterwards built ; and Mr. Bray adverts to the proba-
bility of its having been erected by Morland for the entertainment of Charles II. when he
visited this place with his ladies.
"Whatever be the fact respecting ownership, it is certain that those Gardens were
* "Surrey," vol. i. pp. 12, 13. In the plan showing the situation of the forts on the lines of crjnununication
surrounding the city and suburhs, engraved by Vertue for ilaitland's " London," the Vauxhall defence is described as " a
Quadrant Fort, with four half-bulwarks." Its situation is immediately adjacent to the site lately occupied by Vauxhall
Gardens, and may therefore be regarded as sufficiently identifying the latter with Aubrey's Spring Garden.
+ It is difficult to reconcile the date 1694, here given as that upon the pump, with the latter circumstances of Sir
Samuel's life, as he purchased a house near the waterside, at Hammersmith, about 1684, and continued to reside there
until his decease in 1696.
N 2
52 HISTORY OF SURREY.
called Spring Garden for a long period. In a plan (seen by Mr. Bray) dated 1G81 they
are so named, and " marked as planted with trees, and laid out in walks ; " and Addison,
in his imaginary visit to " Spring Garden," Yauxhall, with Sir Eoger de Coverley, in
May, 1712, affords some insight into the customs and character of tlie place at that time.*
The license every season was, down to the breaking iip of the Gardens a few years ago,
obtained by the title of the " Spring Garden, Vauxhall."
On the 17th of March, 1728, a lease was granted by Elizabeth Masters, of London, to
Jonathan Tyers, of Surrey, for the term of thirty years, of " all that parcel of ground
called Vauxhall, or Spring Gardens," at the yearly rent of £250. The enterprise of the
lessee effected many improvements, and on the 7th of Juno, 1732, he opened the season
with a Ridotto aV Fresco, a phrase until then unknown here, and more suitable to the
warmer skies of Italy than to this country. Instrumental music and a masquerade were
included in the amusements, and among the visitors were Frederick, Prince of "Wales, the
Earl of Scarborough, the Lord Gage, and other attendant nobles. On this occasion about
four hundred persons were present, one-third of whom were " without Masks, the rest were
generally in Dominoes and Lawyers' Gowns. "f The admission tickets were a guinea each,
and a guard of soldiers was posted about the place to prevent disturbance.
The Eidotto was several times repeated in the course of the summer, and with so much
success that the proprietor was induced " to make his garden a place of musical entertain-
ment for every evening during the summer season : to this end he was at a great expense
in decorating the gardens with paintings ; he engaged a band of excellent musicians ; he
issued silver tickets of admission at a guinea each, and, receiving great encoiu'agement, he
set up an organ in the orchestra, and in a conspicuou.s part of the garden erected a fine
statue of Mr. Handel, the work of Eoubiliac." %
From Dr. Burney we learn that Mr. Tyers, in the summer of 1745, added vocal to his
instrumental performances, on which occasion the orchestra was enlarged, and Mrs. Arue,
* Fpedator, No. 383. This paper is headeti witli the motto, " Criminibus debent Hortos," from Juvenal — " A
beatiteous garden, but by Vice maintain'd ;" and its description ia accordant with tlie motto, viz. " Wlien I con-
sidered the fragrancy of the walks and bowers, with the choirs of birds that sunjj upon the trees, and the loose tribe of
people that walked under their shades, I could not but look upon the place as a kind of Mahometan Paradise."
t Gentleman's Magazine, vol. ii. p. 823. The admission ticket was designed by the younger Laguerre, and has been
copied in Nichols's " Lambeth," as have likewise nine smaller admission tickets of silver, which were subsequently issued
to annual subscribers to the Gardens.
t Hawkins, " History of Music," vol. v. p. 362. Handel was represented as Orpheus playing on his lyre : the likeness
was exact. It was placed in the grounds in 1738. The idea of embellishing the Gardens with paintings was suggested to
Mr. Tyers by Hogarth (who had summer lodgings at South Lambeth), and some of them were executed by Hayman from
Ids designs. In return for liis advice and assistance, the grateful proprietor presented Hogarth with a gold ticket of
admission for himself and his friends, " in perpetuam beneficii memoriam." Nearly all the paintings which formerly
ornamented the pavilions were by Hayman.
LAMBETH. gj
who before her marriage had studied under Gemiuiaui, being engaged as prineipal
singer, her husband, afterwards Dr. Ai'ue, began to compose for the entertainments. His
ballads, duets, and other pieces, sung at Vauxhall in different seasons, obtained great
applause, and by their circulation over the kingdom had considerable influence in forming
the public taste for vocal mclod}-. The IMessrs. Lowe and the elder Eeiuhold were also
engaged to sing, and Wornam was employed as organist. Ilere the latter first exercised
his genius in composition, and the numerous songs and concertos which he produced
diversified the amusements.*
In 1752 Mr. Tyers purchased one moiety of this estate from George Doddington, Esq.,
for £3,800 ; and a few years afterwards, as Lysons informs us from records in the Duchy
of Cornwall Office, "he bought the remainder."t This, most probably, was at the
expiration of his original lease in 1758. He died in 1767, and Mr. Dray says " so great
was the delight he took in this place, that, possessing his faculties to'thc last, he caused
himself to be carried into the gardens a few hours before his death, to take a last look at
them." X lie had devised this property equally among his four children, Thomas, Jonathan,
Margaret, and Elizabeth ; and Jonathan, the jouugest son, conducted tlic Gardens until his
own decease in 1792. The management then devolved on Mr. Di'yant Darrett, an affluent
wax-chandler, who had become part OAvner by his marriage with the only daughter and
child of the late Mr. Tyers, and who subsequently purchased the other share. § lie
died in 1809, having bequeathed this estate to his two sons, George Eogors Darrett, Esq.,
and the Eca'. Jonathan Tyers Darrett, D.D., Prebendary of St. Paul's, by the first of
whom the entertainments were carried on till the property was disposed of by auction
in 1821.
The pm-chasers were Thomas Dish (the well-known lottery contractor), Frederick Gye,
and Eichard Hughes, who reopened the place in 1822, under the King's patronage, as the
Eoyal Gardens. Mr. Dish shortly retired, but Messrs. Gye and Hughes continued to
conduct it, with more or less success, and with a great variation in the amusements,
until the summer of 1810, when a fiat of banki'uptcy was issued against them. At that
time there were encumbrances on the property to the amount of £23,000, including several
mortgages. The Court of Eeview dii-ected a public sale, which nomiually took place at
Garraway's in 1811, the estate and all its direct appurtenances, as buildings, timber,
covered walks, &c., being comprised in a single lot. It was stated that the laud, about
11 acres, was held under the Queen, as lady of the manor of Kennington in right of her
* Bumey, " History of JIusic," vol. iv. pp. 667, 668. + Lysons, " Environs," vol. i. p. .3il.
X Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. iiL p. 492. § U.
94 HISTORV OF SURREY.
(lucliy of Cornwall, and that it was subject only to an annual quit-rent of £1 3s. 7d., and not
more than 5s. a year for tithe. The highest bidding was £20,200, at which sum this property
appears to have been bought in, the estate being still in the possession of the assignees.*
It was afterwards rented by different parties, and the amusements greatly varied.
Besides the eminent composers and vocalists mentioned above, many others might be
named of high celebrity, who acquired no inconsiderable portion of their rising fame in
these Gardens. Of the former class were Boyce, Carter, Mountain, Hook (organist here
upwards of forty years), and Signer Storace : among the latter, of male singers, were
Webb, Vernon, Incledon, Braham, Pyne, Sinclair, Tinney, and Bedford ; and of females,
Miss Brent (afterwards Mrs. Pinto), the much-lamented Mrs. "Wrighteu (drowned at sea),
Mrs. Kennedy, Mrs. Weichsel (the mother of Mrs. Billington), Miss Leary, Mrs. Martyr,
Mrs. Mountain, Signora Storace, Mrs. Crouch, Mrs. Bland, Miss Tyrer (afterwards Mrs.
Listen), Miss Graddon (afterwards Mrs. Gibbs), Miss Pool, Miss Travers, and Miss Love.
One of the earliest representations of Vauxhall is attached to a quarto tract entitled
"A Trip to Yauxhall," dated in 1737. It is a curious print, of a bird's-eye character,
exhibiting the seats and supper-tables in the quadrangle surrounding the orchestra,
together with a perspective of the long walk, and an Herculean statue at its extremity.
About sixty visitors of both sexes are scattered around, and in front of the orchestral
band is a prominent figure wearing a cocked hat and playing the trumpet. This possibly
was intended for the celebrated ^'alentine Snow (afterwards sergeant trumpeter), of whom
Dr. Burney says he was "justly a favourite here, where his silver sounds in the open air,
by having room to expand, never arrived at the ears of the audience in a manner too
powerful or piercing."
The principal buildings in these Gardens were the orchestra, the Prince's pavilion (so
called from its having been originally built for the accommodation of Frederick, Prince
of Wales, son of George II.), the rotunda and its several appendages, a saloon or supper-
room, two octagon temples, a theatre, and a high firework tower. The orchestra was a
handsome structure of wood, surmounted by a dome, and variously embellished by painting
and characteristic plastic ornaments. It stood near the middle of an oblong quadrangle
called the Grove, and was surrounded by broad covered walks, from the roofing of which
tiers of coloured illumination lamps were suspended. At the head of the quadrangle,
westward, was the pavilion, of the composite order, and entered by a flight of steps at each
end. The interior was splendidly fitted up. The rotunda, 70 feet in diameter, had a
* The assignees were Thos. M. Alsager and George Balne, Esq?., of whom the former, being the official assignee,
committed suicide, from some unknown cause, in 1846.
LAMBETH. 95
considerable part of its area cucloscd as a rido for equestrian performances, and at the
upper end was a small stage for fantoccini and other exhibitions of a minor description.*
Opposite the stage was a spacious gallery, and on each side of the circle a range ("f boxes ;
but access to these required an additional payment. The supper-room was a noble apart-
ment, illumined by handsome chandeliers of diversely coloured lamps. In the theatre
(which occupied a distinct site at some distance northward of the quadrangle) a curious
piece of machinery, representing a landscape with a miller's house, a water-mill, cascade,
and moving figures, was exhibited dm-ing many years; but latterly this place was
appropriated for ballets, rope-dancing, short dramatic pieces, juggling, hydraulic experi-
ments, and other amusements. In diflferent parts of the grounds cosmoramic and
perspective views were shown, which were frequently changed in accordance with the
subjects most engaging the attention of the public. In the Italian walk A'arious statuary
casts were placed ; in another part was a figure of Eve at the Fountain ; and at the
termination of the principal walk was Neptune in his car drawn by sea-horses, with jets
of water issuing from theu- nostrils.
The illuminations and fireworks displayed in these Gardens were highly attractive, and
almost realised the radiant descriptions of Eastern tales. On gala and other particular
nights more than 20,000 lamps have been used to give effect to the devices and increase
the general brilliancy, whilst superadded fireworks have shed new splendour on the
darkening shades of the midnight hour. Here the celebrated Madame Saqui has descended
from a great height, along a rope several hundred feet in length, amidst a fiery shower ;
and others equally adventurous have followed her example.
Numerous balloon ascents have taken place from these grounds, of which the first, in
point of time, was that of Madame and Mens. Garnerin and Mr. Glassford in ].802.
When at a considerable elevation a cat suspended to a small parachute was di-opped from
the car, and reached the ground in perfect safety. In 1802 M. Garnerin himself descended
safely from a vast height in a cylindrical basket attached to a parachute.
The Eritish aeronaut, tlie elder Mr. Green, frequently ascended hence, and particu-
larly during the summer of 1836, when the magnificent machine theu called the Eoyal
Vauxhall Balloon was fii'st used.-f On its first trial nine persons ascended with him.
They alighted without accident near Clifl:V, below Gravesend.
* Here, many years ago, was iiitroiluccd, by the appellation " L'Attelicr de Canova," one of the earliest statuary
representations by li\dng actors, afterwards knowar under the name of tahleaux vivants, &c., to the destruction of youthful
morality, and utter shame of the local authorities who permitted theii' exhibition.
t This stupendous globe, when fully inflated, was 80 feet in height, and 159 feet in circumference. It contained
about 70,000 cubic feet of gas, and was composed of 2,000 yards of silk, crimson and white, woven in a peculiar manner,
and of a very thick fabric. The gores were additionally strengthened by an elastic cement of peculiar tenacity.
96
HISTORY OF SURREY.
But a still more estraordinary aerial voyage was accomplisliecl witli this balloon in the
following November, when Messrs. Green, Monck Mason, and Holland were carried from
Vauxhall to Weilburg, in the duchy of Nassau, a distance of nearly 350 miles in a straight
line, in about eighteen hours. They ascended at 1.30 in the afternoon, reached Dover- in
three hours and eighteen minutes, crossed the Channel in one hour and two minutes, passed
Namui- at 11.30 at night, crossed the Ehine to the north of Coblentz about six o'clock the
next morning, and descended near Weilburg at 7.30, every assistance being afforded
them in landing, amidst the acclamations of wondering thousands. In acknowledgment
of this kindness, and of the hospitable reception our travellers met with from the Duke
of Nassau, the name of their vehicle was changed to that of the Nassau Balloon, by which
it was distinguished in all its subseq[uent flights. On the above occasions both the
Gardens and the neighbourhood were crowded by dense masses of people to an extent
almost unparalleled.
In 1859 a vast concourse of people were attracted to the Gardens by the announce-
ment that the well-known theatre, orchestra, dancing-platform, firework gallery, &c.,
would be sold by auction. The temple, orchestra, pictures, and statues fetched ridicu-
lously small prices, and the Gardens ceased to exist. Their site was soon covered by
streets of small houses. Shortly afterwards the Prince of Wales went to Vauxhall, but it
was to lay the foundation stone of the present Lambetli School of Art. This school was
originally established in 1854 by the Eev. William Gregory, then Yicar of St. Mary's,
Lambeth, as a branch of the Central School of Design at Marlborough House, This was
really the first art school of design in the kingdom, as indeed it should be. The Lambeth
school went on steadily increasing until 1860, when, as above mentioned, the Prince of
Wales laid the foundation stone of the new building.
Vauxhall Bi!IDGE. — This is an iron bridge, and was the first constructed of that
material in or near the metropolis. It was originally styled " Eegent Bridge," the first
stone having been laid by Lord Dundas as proxy for the Prince Eegent, afterwards
George IV., in 1811, and it was opened in 1816. There are nine arches, each 78 feet in
span and 29 feet in height, springing from stone piers, rusticated, and partly composed
of rude fragments united by Parker's cement. The roadway is 36 feet in breadth, and the
whole length of the bridge 809 feet.
This bridge was built at the expense of a body of shareholders, specnlatir.g on the
profits which might arise from the tolls. The outlay was about £300,000. Mr. Eal^jh
Dodd was the original projector of Vauxhall Bridge, and for a slaort time employed by the
managers of the undertaking as their architect, as were also in succession Sir James
LAMBETH.
97
Bcntliam aud Mr. John Eonuic ; but tlio design as ^vell as the execution of the work was
ultimately intrusted to Mr. James Walker. This structure forms a most convenient
thoroughfore for the extensive and rapidly increasing neighbourhoods of Pimlico and
Chelsea.
The Maxor of Kenningtox. — -This manor belonged to the Crown in the Saxon times,
and its name Chcnintiinc, as it is spelt in the Doomsday Book, would seem to be derived
from Kyninje and can ; that is, the i^Iacc or town of the hinrj. It is thus described in the
Norman record : —
" Theodoric the Goldsmith holds Chenintune of the King. lie held it in person of
King Edward. It was then assessed at 5 hides. It is noAV rated at 1 hide aud 3 virgates.
The arable laud is 2^ carucates. In demesne is 1 carucate ; and one villain, and one
bordar, with 2 carucates. There is one bondman, and 4 acres of meadow. It was, and is,
worth £3."
Eichard I. in 1189 granted to Su* Eobert Percy the custody of this manor for life, at
an annual rent of 20 marks, and appointed him steward of the lordship, and keeper of
the manor-house, garden, &c., with wages of 4d. a day as keeper, to be deducted out of
the rent.* At Christmas, 1231, Henry III. held his court at Lambeth [Kennington],
when Hubert de Burgh, Justiciary of England, provided everything requisite for the regal
festival. t In the following year (after Hubert had been removed ft-om his office, and,
having been charged with high crimes and misdemeanours, was subjected to a severe
prosecution) a Council or Parliament was assembled at this place, at the festival of the
Exaltation of the Cross, at which were present the King, the bishops, and other dignitaries
of the Church, and likewise the grandees \j[)rocercs\ of the kingdom. On that occasion
Hubert was summoned to attend the court, but he refused to appear, and was threatened
with extreme vengeance for his contumacy.^ A grant of a fortieth part of theu- movables
was then given to the King by the clergy and laity, under the authority of those present
at the meeting.
Grants of the custody of this manor were made to various persons by Henry III. and
Edward II., the latter of whom, in 1319, gave the manors of Kennington and Faukcs-
haU to Eoger D'Amorie and Elizabeth his wife, as stated in our account of Vauxhall. On
the decease of the former in 1321 his estates were seized by the King, but they were
* Bibl. Harl. MSS. No. 433, f. G3. The " bam, witli otlier easements without the pale there," is mentioned in the
grant. This was, doubtless, the Long Barn, as subsequently called, wliich was constructed of flint and stone, with strong
buttresses, and a very high gable roof sustained by massive timbers. After being used both as a granary and stable, it
became in 1709 one of the receptacles for the distressed Protestants from the Palatinate. Its length was 180 feet. It was
pulled down in 1795.
+ Matt. Paris, " Hist. Angl." p. 354. J U. p. 364. (See account of Merton.)
VOL. III. 0
98 HISTORY OF SURREY.
afterwards restored to his relict, wlio conveyed tliem to Edward III. iu 1338, iu exchange
for other manors in Suffolk, her daughter Elizabeth, with her husband, John, Lord
Bardolf, joining in the release. In the following year the King was at Kennington in the
months of February, March, July, and October, as appears from various documents
(printed in the "Fosdera"), Avhich are attested by his eldest son, the Black Prince, then
only ten years of ago. He also kept his Christmas here in 1342.
Edward the Black Prince died in 1376, soon after which his son Eichard was created
Prince of Wales. In the same year, on the Sunday before Candlemas, the citizens of
London made a Show, or Mummery, "for disport of the young Prince," Avho "remained
at Kennington -with his mother, his uncle the Duke of Lancaster, the Earls of Cambridge,
Hertford, "Warwick, and Suffolk, and divers other Lords." * The Prince continued here
until his accession to the throne in the June following, previously to which the Duke of
Lancaster had sought refuge "with him from a tumultuary assemblage of the citizens, whom
he had exasperated by some discourtesy towards the Bishop of London (William Courte-
nay) during the proceedings at St. Paul's against Wycliff, who had attended the Convo-
cation under the protection of the Duke. Eventually the differences were adjusted by the
interference of the youthful King and his mother, the Princess-Dowager of Wales.
Several of our succeeding kings resided occasionally at Kennington, as appears both
from public records and the testimony of historians ; but at what time the manor-house
ceased to be occupied as a royal palace is uncertain. Henry YII. was here shortly
previous to his coronation, and on the eve of St. Simon and St. Jude "he came from
Kennington unto Lambeth, and there dined with Thomas Bonrchier, archbishoppe of
Cantcrburie : — and after dinner with a goodly companie of the estates of this realm both
spirituall and temporall, from thence went by land towards London, his nobles riding after
* Stop's " London," edit. 1618. The Show was " in this manner : Iu the night, one hundred and thirty-
Citizens, disguised and well horsed, in a ^uimncv!), with soirnd of trumpets, sackbiits, cornets, shalmes, and other
minstrels, and innumerable torch-lights of waxe, rode from Newgate through Cheaxse over the Bridge through
Southwarke, and so to Kennington beside Lambeth : — In the first rauke did ride 48 in the likenesse and habite of
Esq^uires, two and two rode together, cloatlied in red coates and gownes of Say or Sendall, with comeley visors on their
faces. After them came riding 48 Knights, in the same livery, of colour and stuft'e. Then followed one richly arraied,
like an Emperor ; after him some distance, one stately tyred like a Pope, who was followed by 24 Cardinals, and after
them eight or ten with blacke \-isors, not amiable, as if they had bin Legates from some forraine Princes. These
Maskers, after they had entred the Manner of Kennington, alighted fro' their horses, and entred tlie hall on foote, which
done, the Prince, his Mother, and tlie Lords came out of the Chamber into the hall, whom the Mummers did salute ;
shewing by a paire of dice on tlie table, their desire to play with the Prince, which they so handled that the Prhice did
alwaies winne when he cast at them. Then the Mummers set to the Prince three Jewels, one after another, wliich were a
Boule of gold, a Cuppe of gold, and a Ring of gold, which the Prince wonne at three casts. Then they set to the Princes
Mother, the Duke, the Earles, and other Lords, to every one a Ringe of gold, which they did also winne. After which
they were feasted, and the musicke sounded. The Prince and Lords daunced on the one part with the Mummers, who
did also daunce ; which ioUty being ended, they were againe made to drinke, and then departed in order as they came." —
U. pp. 148, 149.
LAMBETH. gg
the guise of France ui^on small hackneics, two aud two upon a horse ; and at London
Bridge end the Maior of London with his brethren and the craftes, met aud received
the King, and the King proceeded to Grace-Church corner, and so to the Tower." *
Leland saj^s that Katherine of Arragon was here for a few days,t after which it is
probable the palace fell to decay ; for Camden, writing in the latter years of Queen
Elizabeth's reign, says (though somewhat erroneously) that " of this retreat of our ancient
kings, neither the name nor ruins are now to be found." J
James I. settled this manor with other estates on his eldest son, Ilcnry, Prince of
"Wales, aud after his decease in 1012 on Prince Charles, afterwards Charles I.; and they
have ever since been held as part of the estate of the Princes of Wales, as Dukes of
Cornwall. §
In 1617 Prince Charles granted a lease of the manor of Kcnnington, comprising 122
acres, to Sir IToel Carou, Knt., for twenty-one years, at a yearly rent of £10 10s. 9d. ;
but he retained the site of the palace aud its garden, occupying 10 acres of ground, in his
own possession till he came to the crown in 1025. In the year prior to that event,
however, he had granted a lease of the manor, &c., to Francis, Lord Cottiugton, his
secretary, for eighteen years; and he subsequently extended the term for three years
longer.ll The estates of Lord Cottington were afterwards sequestered for "delinquency,"
and in 1646 his interest in this demesne Avas sold (vmder an ordinance of Parliament) to
Eichard Boucher, of St. Clement Danes, London, for £900.
At the Eestoration the manorial estate reverted to the Crown; and Charles II. in 1061
demised to Heniy, Lord Moore, afterwards Earl of Drogheda, this manor, with other lands
belonging to the duchy of Cornwall, and a capital messuage called Fauxhall, for thirty-one
years, at an annual rent of £150, but with a power of resumption as to the latter
messuage, of which the King availed himself, and then granted to his lordship a new lease
of Kenuington at £100 yearly. In 1747 a lease of the capital messuage of this manor
and its appurtenant lands was obtained by "William Clayton, Esq., of Harleyford, Bucks,
for thirty-one years, and in 1765 an additional lease for eighteen years was granted to
the same gentleman. A further change was made in 1776, when an Act of Parliament
* Stow's Chronicle, p. 788. + '■■ Colleclauc-a," vol. v. p. 3j:i.
X "jEdes regise Kennington dietce, cpio reges Anglia; olini secedere soliti, scd nunc uec noiiitji, iiec niJera
iuvenimus." — Britannia: Surrey.
§ Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. iii. p. 486.
II In a survey of tlie Kennington demesne, taken in 1636 by Sir Charles Harbord, Surveyor General of the Duchy
of Cornwall, the manor-house is stated to be " a small, old, low, timber building, situated upon part of the foundation of
the ancient mansion-house of tlie Black Prince, and other Dukes of Cornwall after him, which was long .since utterly
ruined." (See Nichols's " Lambeth," in which is a small plan of the site and precincts of the palace, copied from the
survey.)
n 0.
100 HISTORY OF SURREY.
was passed, enabling Mr. Clayton to surrender the existing leases and take a new one
for ninety-nine years (determinable on three lives), for the purposes of building, &c. ; and
"on the faith of this lease and act, buildings have been erected, producing [in 1814] about
£2,000 a year in ground rents." '" Since that time a vast increase in the houses and
population of this district has taken place, and the value of the property been proportionably
augmented.
Kennington Palace stood within a triangular plot of ground near Kennington Cross,
now bounded by Park Place, Devonshire Street, and Park Street ; and though no portion
of the building remains aboveground, thick fragments of walls of flint, chalk, and rubble-
stone intermixed, may be seen in the cellars of houses in Park Place. The Long Barn,
referred to in a previous note, ran parallel with this line of houses.
In Upper Kennington Lane, on the north side, is Yauxhall Chapel, a plain edifice of
brick, dedicated to St. John, erected in 1816 at a cost of about £2,000, raised by voluntary
contribution of persons of the Independent persuasion. The chapel is now occupied by a
congregation of Anabaptists.
St. Peter's Church, close by, was consecrated in 1864:. It is a large brick-built
edifice, of early English architecture, and was erected from the designs of Mr. J. L.
Pearson. The fabric has sittings for a congregation of 840. Adjoining the church are
some schools and a mission-house.
In Lower Eennington Lane is Carlisle Congregational Chapel, so called from having
been erected, about seventy years ago, by the Eev. George Gibson, when master of the
Carlisle House Boarding School. The stuccoed front is surmounted by a single-bell
turret.
Between Kennington Lane and the Oval, on the site now occupied by the gas-holders
or stores in connection with the Phoenix Gas Works at Vauxhall Bridge, were formerly
the South London Water Works, constructed by a joint-stock company under the provisions
of an Act of Parliament obtained in 1805. The site comprises about 5 acres, on which
a steam-engine and the requisite buildings were erected, and two reservoirs formed, for
the supply of water drawn from the Thames, but in a purer state, to certain parts of
Lambeth, Newington, Bermoudsey, Eotherhithe, Deptford, Peckham Eye, Camberwell,
Dulwich, Clapham, and other adjacent places. Other works have since been raised by the
company, and a steam-engine erected at Vauxhall Creek, on ground that belonged to the
once-celebrated Cumberland Gardens.
On the same side is the Licensed Victuallers' School. This establishment owes
* Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. iii. p. 488.
LAMBETH. ,oi
its origin to the "Friendly Society of Licensed Victuallers," instituted in 1793, and
incorporated by royal charter in 1836. The primary object of the society was to " afford
relief to sick, infirm, and distressed Brethren in Trade ; " and in aid of that purpose the
Morning Advertiser newspaper was published, which commenced in 1791, and has ever
since been continued, as it proved a profitable specvilation. Subsequently to tliat under-
taking, the school was established for the clothing, educating, and putting out in the
world the childi-en of either sex of distressed, decayed, and deceased members of the
society. The children receive a thorough commercial education, including drawing,
mathematics, &c. ; the girls are also trained for household work and other useful
occupations ; and all are instructed in religion according to the doctrines of the
Established Chiirch. There are a head master and two assistants, a head mistress and two
assistants, and also a matron. The funds supporting the school arise from life and yearly
subscriptions ; from dividends, donations, and legacies ; and from the profits of annual
balls, &c.
The present school was erected in 1836 on the site of a plain brick edifice, originally
adapted for the purpose about 1807. It is a handsome building, designed by the late
Mr. Hemy Eosc, architect, of Bermondscy. The basement story, which is of stone, is
rusticated; the superstructure is of brick, but fronted by a projecting portico and pediment
of the Corinthian order. The interior is comraodiously arranged, and contains distinct
schools and other apartments for the children of cither sex. This institution is under the
superintendence of a governor and a committee of management, consisting of six trustees
and sixteen other persons. The Queen is patroness.
The Yestry Hall for the parish of Lambeth is in Kennington Eoad, near the green.
It is a commodious brick-built edifice, and was erected in 1854-5. The building contains
offices for the clerk to the magistrates, the clerk to the Burial Board, the Lambeth Board
of Works, the officers of the Vestry of Lambeth, &c., besides a spacious room for general
meetings, &c.
In Kennington Road is Verulam Chapel, a plain square building, erected in
1825, and affording accommodation for 500 persons. Originally this chapel was in
the Independent connection, but it is now Episcopal, and is known as Verulam District
Church.
Nearly opposite Verulam Chapel is St. Philip's Church, a Gothic edifice of stone, built
from the designs of Mr. H. E. Coe, and consecrated in 1863. It contains sittings for 950
worshippers. The district has a population of about 8,000.
Kennington Park, on the east side of Kennington Eoad, is an enclosed piece of ground,
,02 HISTORY OF SURREY.
some 20 acres in extent, ornamented with plots of turf, flo-^er beds, and intersected by
gravel \^'alks, as a place of recreation for tbe inhabitants of the district, and is under
the charge of the Metropolitan Board of Works. It was formerly known as Kenningtou
Common, and Avas celebrated for cricket matches, itinerant preaching, pugilistic contests,
and other popular disports. During the revolutionary war with France this was the
frequent exercise ground of different volunteer regiments.
On the west side, fronting the common, is the well-known Horns Tavern and
Hotel. Here is a handsome concert and assembly room, which is occasionally appro-
priated to horticultural and floral exhibitions, and also used for the delivery of lectures,
both scientific and amusing.
St. Mark's Church, Kennington. — This church, which was built in 1822 — 24 from
the designs of Mr. D. E. Eoper, stands at the southern extremity of Kenningtou
Park, near the intersection of the road leading to Brixton and Croydon with that
from Yauxhall to Camberwell, on a spot somewhat remarkable as having been the
place of execution for criminals doomed to capital punishment at the county assizes ;
and many persons suffered here as traitors, who were tried at St. Margaret's Hill in 1746,
after the insurrection of the Scotch in the preceding year in favour of the younger " Pre-
tender."
The body of the edifice is of brick, with stone dressings, but the west front is wholly
of stone : the steeple also, surmounting the roof of the central vestibule, is of the same
material. The entire west front consists of a portico of the Doric order, composed of four
fluted columns and two antes, based on a platform ascended by a flight of steps, and
supporting an entablature and pediment. The entablature is continued along the walls of
the church, but without its characteristic triglyphs. The steeple consists of three stories,
and is surmounted by a spherical dome, crowned by a lofty cross. At the east end is an
attached building, including a vestry and other oflices, and beneath is a flight of steps
descending to the catacombs. During the years 1873 — 7G the interior of this church was
wholly remodelled and renovated ; the east window has been filled with stained glass, the
subject being the Ascension of our Lord; and the organ has been removed from the
western gallery to the eastern end of the church. A handsome reredos has also been
added in memory of the late Eev. Charlton Lane, who was incumbent for thirty-three
years.
Kenningtou Church is in the diocese of Eochcster, and the patronage is in the
gift of the Archbishop of Canterbury. The following have been the Ministers of this
church : —
l.— Wi'llMm Olki\ M.A., afterwards Bishop of C'hiclicstcr. Instituted iu 1824.
%— Charlton Lane, M,A. Instituted in 1833.
3. — Henry Robert Lloyd, M.A. Instituted in 1861.
4. — EJnmnd Ilcnry Fisher, M.A., Archdeacon of Southwark. Instituted in 1869.
The churchyard is enclosed by an iron railing upon a granite plinth, but interrupted
at intervals by square piers of the same material supporting large lamps. It is planted
with trees, and the ground neatly laid out. On its south side was a small stream, called
the Effra, over which was a bridge that was repaired by the Canons of Merton Abbey, to
whom lands had been anciently devised for the pui-pose. This rivulet took its rise in the
upper parts of the Brixton district, and flowed along the eastern side of the high-road.
Although the stream has been diverted from its original channel, or otherwise effaced, its
name is kept in remembrance by a modern thoroughfare called Efi"ra Eoad.
New schools were built in St. Mark's parish in 1876.
The district of St. John the Divine, Avith a population of 9,000, has been taken from
St. Mark's. This church was erected in 1874 at a cost of £20,000. Schools were built
in 1872 at a cost of £3,000.
St. James's Church, Kennington Park Eoad, was restored in 1875, and consecrated by
the Bishop of Winchester. It is in the gift of the Bishop, and was built by subscription.
The funds for the building were raised by the personal efforts of the Eev. Samuel
Bache Harris, M.A., the first vicar. The parish was separated from St. Mark's, Kennington,
and contains a population of 16,200. Schools were built here in 1851 at a cost of £80.
The Church of St. Agnes, on the east side of Kennington Park, is in the English
middle pointed style of architecture, and was built from the designs of the late Sir
G. Gilbert Scott. The cast window, of stained glass, illustrating the doctrines of the
Incarnation and the Atonement, cost ^£1,000, and serves as a memorial to the lady who
was the chief benefactress of the church.
Claylands. — From the situation of this estate, which lies on the southern side of
Kennington Oval, it seems probable that it was formerly included in the deer park of Sir
Noel Caron, Knt., ambassador from the States of Holland to this country in the respective
reigns of Elizabeth and James I., and to whom, in 1617 (as previously stated), Prince
Charles granted a lease of the demesne lands of Kennington manor, at the yearly rent of
£16 10s. 9d., payable to the receivers for the duchy of Cornwall.*
* According to Allen (" Hist, of Lambeth," p. 396, 1827), a great part of the walls wliich surrounded Sir Noell's park,
" particularly one piece across Kenuington Oval," still existed when he -nTote ; hut scarcely any part now remains. The
level area of the Oval is used as the Surrey cricket ground. Sir Noel's house at South Lambeth stood on a plot of
,04 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Claylands was bounded on the north side by the streamlet called the Effra (noticed
above), which separated it from the Clayton property. It was purchased about ninety years
ago by John Fentiman, Esq., at which time the land was chiefly a marsh, and had been
let for grazing. The new owner, having drained the ground and filled up the hollows,
enclosed several acres for plantations and pleasure grounds, and built a mansion for his
own abode. He died in 1820, and was succeeded by his son, John Fentiman, Esq., at
whose decease in 1838 this estate devolved on Catherine, his widow. The name is still
kept up by Fentiman Eoad.
From a survey of the manor of Kennington made in 1615, we find that Sir Thomas
Parry, Chancellor of Lancaster, then held a house called Copped or Copt Hall, near the
Thames ; and whilst he resided here the Lady Arabella Stuart, who had offended James I.
by her marriage with William Seymour, grandson of the Earl of Hertford, was kept in
confinement in this house, but having made her escape, she was again taken and committed
to the Tower, where she died in 1615. On the death of Sir Thomas Parry, Copt Hall became
the property of John Abrahall, who in 1629 surrendered it to Charles I. The Parliament,
having taken possession of the estates of the Crown, sold this in 1652 to John Trenchard,
of Westminster. Charles II. is said to have established here one Calthoff, a Dutchman,
who conducted a manufactory of guns for the King's service. These premises, at a more
recent period, were occupied as a distillery by Mr. Pratt, and afterwards by Sir Joseph
Mawbey, his son-in-law. The Hall was a large timber-framed mansion fronting the
Thames, with gable-ended wings and two octagonal turrets rising high above the roof.
Near Kennington Oval, on the eastern side of the road leading into it from Vauxhall,
are the Parochial Schools for the Kennington district, erected by voluntary contributions
in 1824, and towards the support of which £900 in the 3 per cent. Consols were
liberally given by the subscribers to the Lambeth Parochial School. There are distinct
schools for each sex, with intermediate apartments for a master and mistress. Each school
will accommodate about 200 children.
In the Brixton Eoad, which, commencing near Kennington Park, passes the east end of
St. Mark's Church, is Christ Chukch, Brixton, formerly known as Holland Chapel : it is
a neat stuccoed edifice, with a bell turret over the central part. This was built by the
Eev. J. Styles, D.D., in 1823, for Independents, and was for many years an Episcopal
proprietary chapel. The district of Christ Chm-ch, with a population of 6,953, was taken
ground now occupied by Beaufoy's distillery. It was nearly in the form of a half H, with gable roofs and projecting
circular ^vings, and had latterly been converted into an academy. On the northern side of the Wandsworth Eoad, near
the Nine Elms, Sir Noel Caron built an almshouse for seven poor -n-idows, which yet remains. He died in 1624, and
was interred with much ceremony in Lambeth Church, his funeral sermon being preached by Archbishop Abbot.
from St. Mark's in ISoG. The cliurcli was restored in 1855 at a cost of £4,000. Schools
were built here in 1860 at an expense of £2,000.
This church stands on ground long held by the Holland fomilj', and forming part of the
minor of Lambeth Wykc, or Wye Coiu-t, an estate belonging to the Archbishops of
Canterbury, by -whom it has been let on lease for lives or terms of years. In the Taxation
of 1291 this is called the Grange, or farm, of Le Wyke. More than a century ago the
lease was possessed by Henry Fox, the first Lord Holland, and the estate was described
as consisting of a mansion called Loughborough House, a garden, formerly called Piush
Croft, and about 234 acres of land. The house, with the garden and orchard, comprising
about 10 acres, was advertised in the London 3£ercurij of April 10th, 1682, to be let as "a
great pennyworth," cither on lease or at a yearly rent. Lysons supposed that at a former
period it had been either the property or the residence of Henry, Lord Hastings, of
Loughborough. It is a large edifice of red brick, and has an attached court, garden, &c.,
surrounded by old walls. For many years these premises were occupied a-^ a school, but
the house has been pulled do\\Ti.
Most important alterations and improvements have been made in this neighbourhood
since the commencement of the present century. The "Washway, so called from its low
and plashy state, has been converted into a substantial road, and now displays handsome
terraces and ornamental villas on each side. The Holland estate also has been appropriated
for building, and is occupied hy divers streets and detached dwellings having an air of
respectability and affluence. Other ranges of houses of a similar character have been
constructed, and the names of the Vassall and Holland Eoads, Eussell Terrace, &c., will
preserve the memory of the family now holding this property.
Kennington gave the title of Earl to William Augustus, second son of George II., who
in 1720 was created Duke of Cumberland, Marquis of Berkhampstead, Earl of Zcnnington,
and Baron of the Isle of Alderney. On his death without issue in 1765 these titles
became extinct.
The Manor of Stockwell, or South Lambeth. — The manor described in the Doomsday
Book, among the lands of the Earl of Morton, under the name of Lanchei, was supposed by
Lysons to have been that afterwards called Stockwell, or South Lambeth. This, however,
seems questionable, for though Stockwell is now a distinct manor, suit and service are
paid from it to the court of the Dean and Chapter of Canterbury, together with nn annual
chief rent of Id. ; hence it may rather be concluded that the manor had its origin in some
grant to the Chapter of Canterbury.
In the reign of King John the manor of Stockwell belonged to Baldwin, son of
VOL. III. p
io6 HISTORY OF SURREY.
William de Ecdvers, sixth Earl of Devon ; and his widow Margaret long held it, togethei*
with Faukeshall, or Vauxhall, as previously related in the account of that manor. Both
these estates, with several others, descended to Isabella, Countess of Albemarle, grand-
daughter of the Countess Margaret ; and from that lady they were purchased by Edward T.
a short time before her death, which took place at Stockwell in 1293. This manorial
estate, having come into the hands of the King, was granted, probably by Edward II., to
Thomas Eomayne (a citizen of London) and Juliana his wife, who in 1310 obtained a
grant of the privilege of free-warren here. Juliana survived her husband, and dying in
1326, was succeeded by her two daughters, coheiresses, to the elder of whom, Eohesia,
wife of John de Boreford, Stockwell and its appurtenances were assigned.* On her decease
in 1330 her estates descended to her son. Sir James do Boreford, who in 1351 obtained a
license to have an oratory in his mansion at Stockwell, and in 1359 he had a grant of
the right of free-warren. Sir Thomas Swinford subsequently held this manor, which ho
settled on his wife Catherine, who became the mistress, and at length the third consort, of
John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster. After repeated transfers the estate was purchased in
1461 by Ealph Leigh, whose son and heir, Jolin Leigh, was made a Knight of the Bath on
the marriage of Prince Arthur, eldest son of Heniy YII. That gentleman held numerous
estates in the county of Surrey, and dying without issue in 1523, Stockwell with others
came into the possession of his nephew, John Leigh, Esq., by whom, or by his son of the
same name, the manor was conveyed to Henry YIII. in 1547. f But the King is su^Dposed
to have had possession before that date, and to have been a resident here in 1533, when
Edward Lee, Archbishop of York, was at this place, and judicially authenticated under
seal, in presence of a notary public, the answer of the clergy of his province to the
questions proposed concerning the validity of the marriage of the King with the Princess
Catherine of Arragon, the widow of his brother. Prince Arthur. J
Queen Mary granted Stockwell to Anthony Browne, Yiscount Montagu, reserving a
fee-farm rent of £8 12s. lid. ; and in 1580 his lordship conveyed the manor-house,
with certain lands adjacent, for a term of one thousand years, at an annual rent of
£6 13s. 4d., to a person named Store; but he retained the manor, and died seized of it in
* In the inquisition post mortem it was found tliat Juliana died seized of " a tenement in Stockwell, a capital
messtiage, two gardens, one dove-house, 287 acres of land, 19^ of meadow, rents of assise of free and customary tenants,
£o Os. 8|d. ; nineteen Neifs or Bondmen, who held 84| acres of land, rents called Cherset (Churchscot), viz. 9 cocks and
9 hens, rents of capital tenants, common fine at the view of Frank-pledge, at Vauxhall, 13d. Total, ^17 Os. O^d." —
Escheats, 19 Edw. 11. n. 85.
t The person who thus alienated the estate must have been the John Leigh who, in 1541, had a quarrel with his
neighbour, Henry, Earl of Surrey, who, it may be presumed, was the culpable party, for he was imprisoned on account
of this feud, and obliged to give security for his peaceable behaviour towards the said Leigh.
t Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. i. p. 498.
LAMBETH. J07
1592. It was held in the reign of James I. by Sir George Chute, afterwards by the
family of Gofftou, and in the time of William III. by that of Thoruicroft. One of that
family about 1790 sold the manor, with a house and about 1-i acres of land, to William
Lambert, Esq., of Ludgate Hill, who died at Wellfield Ilouse, Erixton, in 1810, leaving
this estate to Elizabeth, his widow, and after her decease to James Lambert, his nephew.
The old manor-house devised, as above stated, by Viscount Montagu, came into the
possession of Thomas Colwell, Esq., and was pulled down prior to 1755, and another house
built, which, with the land attached, was purchased in 1770 by Mr. Isaac Barrett, an
affluent wax-chandler, whose son and heir-, Bryant, dying in 1808, bequeathed it (together
with the Yauxhall jn-operty) to his sons, Geo. Eogers Barrett and the Eev. Jonathan Tyers
Barrett, D.D., a Prebendary of St. Paul's.
At the north-west angle of what was once Stockwell Common stood the large
mansion which formerly belonged to John Angell, Esq., an eccentric gentleman, whose
grandfather, Justinian, obtained this estate by his marriage with Elizabeth, daughter and
heiress of John Caldwell, Esq., of Brixton Causeway. John Angell died in 1781, having
by his will, dated 1775, bequeathed all his "lands and estates, both real and personal, in
Surrey, Kent, and Sussex, to the heirs male, if any such there be, of William Angell, the
first purchaser of Crowhurst, aud fatlier of my great-grandfather, John Angell, Esq., and
then* heii's male, for ever," &c., but subject to the foundation and endowment of " a College,
or Society, of seven decayed or unprovided-for Gentlemen, that shall be such by three
descents, and two Clergymen, an Organist, six Singing-men, and twelve Choristers, a
Yerger, or Chapel clerk, &c., and to be called the Gentlemen of St. John's College, near
Stockwell." For the erection of the college and chapel, which were to be built on a free-
hold field called Burden Bush, he allotted £0,000, and for the endowment £800 per
annum, the revenues for the payment of which he vested in the Archbishops of Canterbury
and York, and the Lord Chancellor. The remainder of the property, in default of Imeal
male issue from his great-great-grandfather, he devised to Bro^m, Esq., of Studley,
in Wilts, a relation by female descent, who obtained possession of this and other estates
of the deceased, and assumed the name of Angell.
The foimdation of the college was invalidated by the Statute of Mortmain, and several
Chancery and Exchequer suits and many ejectment cases have taken place, from the
numerous claims made to Mr. Angell's property, under the peculiar terms of his will.
John Angell, of Crowhui'st, Esq., his grandfather (as appears from his nronumcnt in
Crowhiu-st Church), had twenty children, of whom six sons survived, and several of their
descendants endeavoured, but fruitlessly, to establish their right to the succession. The
p f?
,o8 HISTORY OF SURREY.
inheritance, however, from causes which it \yould be tedious and difficult to trace, wouhl
seem to have become divided. The StockwcU property descended to the two sons of the
above Mr. Angell, of whom Benedict J. A. Angell, the elder, had the house and freehold
lands attached; and W. B. Angell, the younger, the copyhold land, which was about
10 acres.* For some years the house was occupied as an academy. The name of
Mr. Angell is now kept in remembrance by the Angell Town Estate, on the east side of
the Brixton Eoad.
Stockwell Green has now almost entirely lost its once rural character, and many of the
surroimding houses have been altered or rebuilt since its far-famed ghost affrighted the
neighbourhood " from its propriety " in 1772. This palpable imposition, to which nothing
but extreme credulity could have given consequence, was the device of a female servant
living with Mrs. Golding, an elderly lady, in a detached house, standing iipon the
eastern side of the green, and lying back from the road, at a short distance northward
from a public-house bearing the sign of the Tower. The first manifestation of the ghost's
presence — if such a phrase be admissible in speaking of a nonentity — occurred on the
morning of Twelfth Day (Monday, January 6th) in the above year, when great alarm was
excited by the fall and breakage of china, glass, plates, &c., in the back kitchen, and the
removal and tumbling about of various articles of domestic use, without any visible cause.
In her fright Mrs. Golding ran into a neighbour's house and fainted, and was afterwards
bled. Meanwhile some of her property was brought into the same house, where similar
occurrences took place in regard to the tumbling about and breaking of different articles.
In two other houses at Eush Common, near Brixton Causeway, Avhere Mrs. Golding
sought refuge during that day and the following night, accompanied by her servant, the
same consequences followed ; and, in the consternation excited by these strange events, the
harassed lady was indirectly accused of having been guilty of some atrocious crime, for
the committal of which she was thus pursued by Providence. Indignant at this accusation,
she returned to her own home, accompanied from Brixton Causeway by Mr. Pain, the
husband of her niece, at whose house much glass and chinaware had been destroyed.
This was about six o'clock on the Tuesday morning, and, as the breakage and falling
about of different articles were soon afterwards renewed, suspicions fell upon the maid-
servant, who was immediately discharged. No disturbances happened afterwards, and
none had previously taken place where the girl had not been present. Notwithstanding
the fair presumption of the girl's participation in these transactions, it is said that few
* Maiming and Braj', " Surrey," vol. iii. p. 499 ; and Denne, " Additions " to Ducarel and Nichols, in " Bibl. Topog.
Brit." 4to, p. 434, 1795.
\ I'
/C?(?^.
LONDON, VIRIUE &C?
at the time would admit of such a rational iufereuce, but attributed the wliole to witcli-
craft. Lysons says that " great numbers of people of all ranks went to sec the feats of
this imaginary ghost, who caused the furniture to dance about the rooms in a vcrj'
surprising manner." He adds (writing about 1791 or 1792), "Mrs. Golding aud her
daughter being both dead, there was an auction at the house a few months ago, when the
dancing fui'niture sold at very extravagant prices." *
On the western side of the green is St. Andrew's Church, formerly known as
Stockwell Episcopal Chapel, towards the erection of which Archbishop Seeker contri-
buted £500 in 1767. It was greatly enlarged in 1810 ; and again in 18G8, at a cost of
£3^400. In the same year it was consecrated. Soon afterwards a considerable chapelry
district, taken out of the new parishes of St. Mark's, Kennington, and St. Matthew's,
Brixton, was assigned to the chapel. Towards the south is a Congregational chapel, and
in Studley Eoad is a chapel for the use of the "Wesleyaus. The National and Parochial
Schools were erected in 1818 for children of both sexes. Besides this school, Stockwell
possesses a British School for boys and girls ; also a Board School, a Girls' Industrial
Home, and a Training College in connection with the British and Foreign Schools Society.
In New Park Eoad, and nearly equidistant between the Brixton and Clapham Eoads,
is the Church of St. Michael, Stockwell, erected in 1841 from the designs of Mr. W.
Eogers, and consecrated by the Bishop of Winchester. An ecclesiastical chapelry
district, including a portion of South Lambeth, and comprising a population of about
6,000 persons, was assigned to it by her Majesty in Council in 1845. This edifice is a
composition in the lancet or early English style of architecture. It was enlarged in
1864, and now contains sittings for about 1,400 persons. The central part of the prin-
cipal front (including the chief entrance) consists of an hexagonal tower of three
stories, siu-mounted by a slender spire of the same form, which is supported by flying
buttresses and crowned by a handsome finial. At each angle of the tower is a graduated
buttress of four stages, with an ornamental pinnacle ; and in the front part of the second
story is a clock dial placed within a triangular niche. At the northern and southern
angles of the building are projecting porches, forming entrances to the aisles and galleries,
and above each is an oblong Avindow flanked by ornamental buttresses. On each side
* " Environs," vol. i. p. 329. See also " An Autlientie, Candid, and Circumstantial Narrative of the astoniiih-
ing Transactions at Stockwell," &c., a small pamphlet published in 1772. In Hone's "Every-Day Book," vol. i.,
under January 7th, 182.5, it is stated, on the authority of Jlr. J. Brayfield of Camherwell (then lately deceased), that Ann
Robinson, who was Mrs. Golding's servant, and with whom he became acquainted some years after these events,
acknowledged herself to be the author of all the mischief, tome being accomplished by the placing of long horse-hairs
and ^-ire under the crockery and glasses, and the rest by her own manual dexterity during the excitement and alarm
arising from her contrivances among superstitious and ignorant people.
1,0 HISTORY OF SURREY.
of the cliiu'cli are seven lancet windows between similar buttresses, and in tbe circular
termination of the west end are others of the same character.* National, Infant, and
Sunday Schools have been attached to this district.
In Stockwell Private Eoad is the Sjiall-Pox Hospital, which was opened in 1871 :
it contains accommodation for about 100 patients. Adjoining is a Fever Hospital, with
beds for about 170. The two institutions were established under the auspices of the
Metropolitan District Asylum Board.
The Stockwell Orphaxage was established in 1869 by Mr. C. H. Spurgcon, pastor
of the Metropolitan Tabernacle at Newington Butts. It is a large quadrangular building,
standing on the Bedford estate, with an entrance by a broad avenue from the Clapham
Eoad. It contains accommodation for 250 boys, who are fed, clothed, and educated.
The expenses of the institution are about £5,000 per annum, and it is maialy dependent
on voluntary contributions.
At South Lambeth, a portion of which is La this district, in Lawn Place, is an Epis-
copal chapel, erected in 1794, and which accommodates about 600 persons. It is sur-
mounted by a bell turret, and contains a fine-toned organ. The patronage is vested in
the proprietors and the Eector of Lambeth.
DuNSFOED Lodge, with the extensive grounds attached to it, has been bought by the
Eoman Catholic Bishop of Southwark, with the view, it is said, of converting it into the
episcopal residence, with seminary attached.
South Lambeth has at sundry times been the residence of many persons of eminent
talents, learning, and information. The Tradescants and Elias Ashmole have already
been noticed, and subjoined is a brief memoir of the learned Ducarel, who occupied a
dwelling attached to the Tradcscant mansion.
At South Lambeth resided for many years the late Andrew Coltee Ducarel, LL.D.,
F.E.S., F.A.S., &c. This most laborious and learned antiquary was the eldest son of a
gentleman descended from an ancient family settled at Caen, in Normandy, in -n'hich
country he was born in 1713. His father, having emigrated to England, became a resident
at Greenwich. He received part of his education at Eton School, and whilst there, in
1729, he was attended by Sir Hans Sloane, in consequence of an accident through which
he lost the sight of one eye. Having entered as a gentleman commoner at St. John's
College, Oxford, in 1731, he obtained the degree of Doctor of Laws in 1738, and in 1743
he became a member of the College of Doctors' Commons. He was elected a fellow of
* Since tlie decease of Ur. D'Oyly in 18-lG a great change lias taken place, under legal ecclesiastical arrangements, in
the patronage of the several districts of Lambeth parish.
LAMBETH. ; , ,
tlie Society of Antiquaries in 1737, and he was one of the first fellows appointed under
the charter of that body in 1755. He also belonged to the Antitiuariau Societies of
Cortona, Cassel, and Edinburgh.
It is stated that Mr. Ducarel was disappointed in his wish to cuter into holy orders,
yet it does not appear iu what manner. But though not a clergyman, he was intimately
connected with the ecclesiastical establishment of this country, and in 1755 he was
constituted Commissary of the Collegiate Hospital of St. Katharine, near the Tower ; in
1758 Commissary of the diocese of Canterbury; and afterwards of the sub-deaneries of
South Mailing, Pagham, and Tarring, in Sussex. He also held the office of Librarian
to the Archbishops of Canterbury at Lambeth from the time of the primate Ilutton, by
■whom he was appointed in 1757, until his death, which took place at his own residence
at South Lambeth in 1785.
The most important literary production of Dr. Ducarel is that entitled ''Anglo-
-Norman Antiquities," illustrated with copper plates, 17G7, in folio, being a much
augmented and improved edition of his '' Tour through Normaudy," which he had pub-
lished in 1754. lie was also the author of treatises on the History and Antiquities of
the Archiepiscopal Palaces of Croydon and Lambeth, and of the Eoyal Hosjiital of
St. ITatharine. His lesser publications and his contributions to the Avorks of others
manifest an extensive acquaintance with ecclesiastical antiquities. He seems to have
been a most indefatigable compiler of indexes and catalogues, as may be inferred from
his having made an index to all the Eegisters extant of the Archbishops of Canterbury
from Peckham, in 1278, to Herrmg, who died in 1757, forming forty-seven vols, folio. He
left many other valuable collections in manuscript, Avhich being sold by his nephew,
Gerard Gustavus Ducarel, Esq., became the property of the late Mr. Gough (editor
of the " Sepulchral Monuments of Great Britain "), and are now deposited in the Bodleian
Library at Oxford. Some of his MSS. have also been purchased for the Library at
Lambeth Palace.
St. Stephen's Church, in St. Stephen's Terrace, South Lambeth, is in the decorated
style of architecture, and was built by J. Barnett iu 18G1. The Church of St. Silas, also
in the same division of the parish, is a Mission Church, with accommodation fur 800
worshippers. The Ecclesiastical Commissioners made a grant of £300 a year, and
£1,500 towards building a vicarage, on condition that the Mission Church is enlarged.
All Saints' Church, South Lambeth, stands in Priory Grove, Wandsworth Koad,
and was first opened as a temporary church in 1874. The permanent chui-ch, biult from
the designs of ]Mr. A. Bedborough in the Gothic style, was commenced in 187C.
112 HISTORY OF SURREY.
The Church of St. Ann, in Southi Lambeth Eoad, Avas built in 1785, in the style then
in vogue, and was known as South Lambeth Chapel. The edifice was restored in 1868,
and consecrated in the following year.
The Church of St. Maey the Less, Pjjinces Eoad, South Lambeth. — This structure,
constructed of brick, with stone dressings and ornamental appendages in the pointed
style, was commenced from the designs of Francis Bedford, Esq., architect, in 1827,
and it was consecrated by the Bishop of Winchester in 1828. The amount of the building
contract was ,£7,634 10s. 4d. ; but this, of course, did not include the cost of the fittings,
organ, and furniture. The chief expense Avas defrayed by the Commissioners for Building
New Churches, but the cost of the organ, fittings, &c., was supplied by a parish rate.
By an order of Council a district extending from the banks of the Thames to Kenning-
ton Eoad was assigned to this church, now held as a perpetual curacy. The following have
been the Incumbents: — Charlton Lane, M. A., instituted in 1828; Stephen Pope, M.A., in
1832 ; Henry Scawen Plumptre, M.A., in 1883 ; Eobert Eden, M.A., in 1839 ; Eobert
Gregory, M.A., in 1853 ; and George H. W. Bromfield, M.A., in 1874.
Nearly opposite this chapel is Lambeth "Workhouse, a plain but extensive building of
brick, now much enlarged.
In Acre Lane, Brixton, is the Trinity Asylum, a substantia] brick building, erected in
1822 by the late Mr. Thomas Bailey, a chinaware and glass manufacturer, of St. Paul's
Churchyard, and endowed by him for the future maintenance of twelve females of good
character above fifty years of age.
St. Matthew's Church, Brixton. — This was the first of the district churches erected
for the increased population of Lambeth parish, though that of St. Mark was almost
exactly contemporaneous. The foundation stones of both were laid by Dr. Manners Sutton,
Archbishop of Canterbury, in 1822. This edifice was consecrated by Dr. Tomline, Bishop
of Winchester, in 1824. St. Mark's was dedicated about the same time.
St. Matthew's Church, of the Grecian-Doric order, was designed by Charles Porden,
Esq., architect, and may be ranked with the very best of our modern classical compositions
in that style. Its ground-plan is a parallelogram, measuring about 100 feet in length and
65 feet in breadth, and containing accommodation, in pews, seats, and galleries, for upwards
of 1,900 persons, of whom about 1,000 have free sittings. The estimated cost of this
structure (inclusive of commission and incidental expenses) was £15,340 13s. 7d, ; the
amount of the building contract was £15,192 9s.
The site occupied by the church and churchyard is near the rise, or rather at the
junction, of the Tulse Hill and Brixton Hill Eoads. It is surrounded by a neat iron railing
LAMBETH. 1 1 5
restiug uii a granite plinth, and interrupted at intervals bj^ square pedestals of the same
material. The body of the church is of light-coloui-ed brick ; the dressings and ornamental
parts arc of stone. The west front consists of a noble portico composed of four massive
columns, fluted, and two anttc, raised on a st}-lobate of five steps, and supporting an enta-
blature and pediment characteristically enriched. The entablature is continiied along the
summit of the lateral walls, which are connected with the anta3 of the portico, and the latter
is consequently closed at the side like the pronaos of a Grecian temple. "Within the portico
are tlu'ce grand entrances, opening into a handsome vestibule, which communicates both
with the interior of the church, and, by flights of stairs, with the galleries. The entrance
doorways are constructed in accordance with ancient examples, the apertures increasing in
width from the lintel to the base ; the lateral windows also, of which there are five on
SOVTII-EASI YIEW OF ST
each side the church, are of a similar form. In the eastern front there is a great deviation
from customary arrangements, the central part consisting of a projecting tower, surmounted
by a steeple of two stories, and the recessed side divisions each containing an entrance
porch, fronted by antce supporting an entablature. The tower, which is based on three
granite steps, and rises to the general entablature of the building, is finished with a frieze
and cornice, and pierced in front by a lofty window, crowned bj' a pediment. The steeple,
though not inelegant, is deficient in height. The lower story has the form of a square
temple of the Doric order, each face consisting of two columns fluted, and two anta;,
supporting an entablature : above this is a parapet, with breaks for the clock dials. The
upper story consists of an octagonal temple, designed from that of the Cyn'hestes at
Athens : this is crowned by a pyramidal roof, enriched with scroll foliage, and sur-
VOL. III. Q
1 14. HISTORY OF SURREY.
mounted by a j)laiu stouo cross. The general roof of the building is slated. Much
elegance and skilful arrangement are displayed in the interior of the church, and the
ornamental parts are designed with great chasteness, the classical style being preserved.
Some handsome monuments and inscribed tablets of white marble arc affixed against
the walls in this church. The steeple was struck with lightning for the second time in
1872, when the cross at the top was shivered into fragments.
In the churchyard are numerous sepulchral memorials, and among them, on the south
and east sides, are several tombs of classical design ; but the most remarkable monument of
this class is a Grecian mausoleum erected at the north-west angle in 1825 by Mr. Henry
Budd in memory of his father, Eichard Budd, Esq., who died in 1824. It is based
on a square ground-plan, and is upwards of 25 feet in height, consisting of three
principal stories, raised on a stylobate of granite steps, interrupted on the west front by
the mausoleum entrance. Each story is variously enriched and adorned with emblematical
sculpture in relief, including the coiled serpent, the Avingcd globe, and the holy dove.
The whole terminates in a square moulded pedestal, crowned by a knot of honeysuckles
of similar form.
Several new churches have been built in this parish. St. Jude's, East Brixton, in 1868,
and St. Saviour's, Brixton Hill, in 1875, each with a vicarage complete, were both built
from the designs of Mr. E. C. Eobins. St. Paul's, in Ferndale Eoad, and St. Catherine's,
in Gresham Eoad, Loughborough Park, are both temporary churches. St. John's, Angell
Town, was consecrated in 1853 : it is in the early English style of architecture, and has
1,200 sittings. Holy Trinity, Tulse Hill, is in the decorated style, and its Eegister dates
from 185G. There are also chapels for Dissenters of almost all denominations, and several
free schools and other charitable institutions.
The City of London Ereemen's Orphan School, foimded in 1854 to provide for the
maintenance and education of the orphans of the freemen of the City of London, has been
erected in the pleasant locality of Shepherd's Lane. A hundred boys and fifty girls,
orphans or fatherless, are provided for, rmder the direct control and management of the
Court of Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and Commoners of the City of London.
The Convict Prison for males stands in a healthy situation on the west side of Brixton
Hill, at the distance of about 200 yards from the high-road. It was erected in 1820 for
tho reception of offenders sentenced to hard labour either at the county assizes or sessions,
or summarily convicted before a magistrate. It has, however, been recently bought by
Government, and converted to its present purjiose.
St. Ann's Society Schools and Asylum, Brixton Hill. — In 1709 several benevolent
LAMBETH. ,,5
persons in the ward of Aldorsgate Within, in the City of London, established a society for
educating and clothing children of necessitous parents of every nation -who had been
once in prosperity ; and in the same year they instituted a day school in St. Ann's Lane,
Aldersgate, for thirty boys and thirty girls. The great utility of this establishment led to
an increase of its funds, and in 1800 it was determined by its governors to open a country
asylum for the entii-e maintenance and education of twenty additional boys, and Brixton
Hill was chosen for the site of the new schools. Since that date girls also have been
admitted. The present Asylum, erected in 1829, is a handsome building of three stories,
siu'mounted by a cornice and plain parapet, but fronted centrally by an Ionic portico and
pediment, ornamented by a sculpture of the royal arms.
St. Ann's Society is under the especial patronage of the Queen and others of the royal
family. The schools arc suj)ported by subscriptions, collections after sermons, and other
voluntary contributions, together with the dividends of funded property.
On Denmark Ilill, on the west side, is an Episcopal chapel dedicated to St. Matthew,
containing sittings for about 1,000 persons, and a good organ. It is now a perpetual
curacy, the patronage being vested in trustees.
St. Paul's Chxjech, on Ilcrne Hill, partly in this district, has been already described
under Camberwell.* About half a mile from this eminence, on the western side of the road
leading to Norwood, is Beockwell Hall, the seat of Mr. Joshua Blackburn. This estate,
comprising nearly GO acres, was purchased of Mr. Eichard Ogbourne in 1809 by John
Blades, Esq., a glass manufacturer of Ludgate Hill, Sheriff of London in 1812. That
gentleman pulled down an old farmhouse which stood in the lower part of the grounds,
and caused the present mansion to be erected on a more elevated spot from the designs
of the late Mr. D. Eiddcll Eopcr, of Great Stamford Street. It is constructed of
white brick, and commands a fine succession of diversified views over all the intermediate
country, including the metropolis, to the hills of Hampstcad and Highgate, Shooter's Hill,
and Harrow-on-the-Hill. On the decease of Mr. Blades in 1829 this property devolved on
the late Joshua Blackburn, Esq., who had married his eldest daughter, and who, by his
will dated 1840, devised the reversion, after the decease of his widow, Mrs. Elizabeth
Blackbm-n, to Joshua, their eldest son, who is the present owner.
St. Luke's District, Norwood. — This district comprises the whole of the southern
part of Lambeth parish, its distance, where it adjoins Croydon, being fully six miles and a
half from the mother church. Anciently Norwood was an extensive tract of open wood-
land, receiving its distinctive appellation from lying to the north of the town of Croydon,
* See ante, p. 22.
Q 2
, , 5 HISTORY OF SURREY.
and some portion of its area is in that parish. During the supremacy of Cromwell, about
the middle of the seventeenth century, it was found on a siu-vey to contain 830 acres of
land, and to he chiefly covered by oak pollards, of which 9,200 were enumerated. Here
formerly stood an aged tree called Yicar's Oak, at which Mr. Manning, after a reference to
Aubrey, says " the five parishes of Battersea, Camberwell, Lambeth, Streatham, and
Croydon meet." *
During a long series of years Norwood was celebrated as the haunt of many of the
gipsy tribe, who in the summer-time pitched their blanket tents beneath its umbrageous
foliage, and from their reputed knowledge of futui-ity were often consulted by the young
and credulous. This was particularly the case at the commencement of the present
centiuy, when it was customary among the labouring classes and servants of London to
walk to Norwood on the Sunday afternoon to have their " fortunes told," and also to take
refreshment at the Gipsy House, which long bore on its sign-post a painting of the
deformed figure of Margaret Einch, the queen of the gipsies. " This remarkable person,"
says Lysons, " lived to the age of 109 years. After travelling," he continues, " over
various parts of the kingdom, during the greater part of a century, she settled at Norwood ;
whither her great age, and the fame of her fortune-telling, attracted numerous visitors.
From a habit of sitting on the ground, with her chin resting on her knees, the sinews at
length became so contracted, that she could not rise from that posture ; and after her death
they were obliged to inclose her body in a deep square box."t She Avas buried, as appears
by the Eegister, at Beckenham, in Kent, on the 2-ith of October, 1740.
The increase of houses and population, conjoined with magisterial interference, has long
* " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 536. The crechility of Autrey is well known. In Ms account of Croydon lie says,
" In this Parish lies the great Wood, called Norwood, belonging to the See of Canterbury, wherein was an ancient remark-
able Tree, called Vicar's Oak, where four Parishes meet in a Point. This Wood wholly consists of Oaks. There was one
Oak which had Misselto, a Timber Tree, which was felled about 1678. Some Persons cut this Misselto, for some
Apothecaries ia London, and sold them a Quantity for Ten ShiUings eacli time, and left only one Branch remaining for
more to sprout out. One fell lame shortly after; soon after each of the others lost an Eye, and he that fell'd the Tree
(tho' warned of these misfortunes of the other Men) would, notwithstanding, adventure to do it, and shortly after broke his
Leg; as if the Hamadryades had resolved to take an ample Revenge for the injury done to that sacred and venerable
Oak." " I cannot omit here," he continues, " taking Notice of the great Misfortunes in the family of the Earl of
Winchelsea, who at Eastwell in Kent, felled down a most curious Grove of Oaks, near his noble Seat, and gave the first
Blow with his own Hands. Shortly after, his Countess died in her Bed suddenly, and his eldest Son, the Lord Maid-
stone, was killed at Sea by a Cannon buUet." — {A-vhrcij, Surrcij, vol. ii. pp. 33, 34.) In the old Registers of St. Mary,
Lambeth, the following entries of payment occur : — 1583. " When we went our perambulation at Vicar's Oke, in Rogation
week, paid 2s. 6d."— 1704. " Paid for 100 lbs. of Cheese, spent at Vicar's Oke 8s."
t " Environs," vol. iv. p. 301. The Gipsy House is said to have been first licensed in the reign of James I. :
it is now a respectable imi. That the neighbourhood was resorted to by gipsies as remotely as the reign of Charles II. is
evident from the subjoined entry in Pepys's "Diary," under the date of August 11th, 1668 : — " This afternoon my Wife and
Mercer, and Deb. went with Pelling to see the Gipsies at Lambeth, and have their fortunes told ; but what they did, I
did not enquire." — (Vol. ii. p. 252, 4to edit.) In the summer of 1815 the gipsies of Norwood were " apprehended as
vagrants, and sent in three coaches to prison." — Hoyland's Gipsies, p. 180.
LAMBETH. ,17
driven the gipsies from their haunts amid the sylvan scenery of Norwood. The name
of this wandering race, however, is still kept in remembrance by Gipsy Hill, where a
railway station and rows of houses have now been erected.
This picturesque district may be described as comprising the three divisions of Upper,
Lower, and South Norwood, the fii'st being situated upon the table-land of Wcstow Hill,
and the two latter adjacent to St. Luke's Church. The locality, however, is being fast
built over, and has already seven or eight churches, besides a large number of Dissenting
chapels and philanthropic institutions.
The road through Camberwell and Dulwich to Upper Norwood leads by Dulwich
Wood to the broad promenade fronting the Crystal Palace, which is on a level Avith the
cross at the top of St. Paul's Cathedral, and to the upper part of "Westow Hill, whence
there is — or was before the erection of the Crystal Palace — an uninterrupted panoramic
prospect for many miles around. Hill and valley, churches, seats and villas, highly
cultivated fields and gardens, diversify the scenery in all directions ; whilst on the north
the river Thames, with portions of the metropolis, the sister hills of Hampstead and
Highgate in the background, and the blue haze beyond, give a richness and grandeur to
the view approaching to magnificence.
The Crystal Palace. — Although the grounds of the Crystal Palace and some part of
the building itself are situated in Sydenham, in the county of Kent, the greater portion
lies within the boundary of Penge, and consequently within the parish of Battersca ;
still, as the rapid growth of Ujiper Norwood from an obscure village to a busy and thriving
town has been mainly owing to the presence of the Crystal Palace in its neighbourhood,
a short account of this edifice may not be out of place in these pages.
At the close of the Great Exhibition in Hyde Park in 1861 it was decided that the novel
and beautiful structure of ii'on and glass in which it had been held should be transferred
to some place in the outskirts of London, and there re-erected, to remain as a permanent
place of recreation and intellectual enjoyment. The broad sloping ground lying between
the Brighton Eailway and Dulwich Wood, nearly 300 acres in extent, was seciu'cd ; the
rebnilding of the edifice was commenced in 1852 ; and it was opened by her Majesty
in June, 1854. The building itself, which is constructed almost entirely of iron and glass,
covers nearly 16 acres of ground. It is considerably larger than its prototype in Hyde
Park ; and although the same materials were used in its construction, it diftcrs from it
very considerably in its formation. Instead of one transept, as in the old building, the
new Crystal Palace had originally thi-ee ; that at the north end, however, together with a
considerable part of the building adjacent, was destroyed by fire in 1866, and up to the
, , s HISTORY OF SURREY.
present time (1879) lias been only partially rebuilt. The nave is covered witli an arclied
roof, raising it 44 feet bigher tban the nave in Hyde Park, and the transepts have also
similar roofs. The height of the central transept, from the garden front to the top of the
louvres, is 208 feet, or G feet higher than the Monument at Loudon Bridge. The interior
of the building, which is surrounded by galleries, contains various industrial, architectural,
and fine art courts, which are interspersed with groups of statuary and fountains, together
with tropical and other plants. In the central transept are the theatre and the Handel
Festival Orchestra, the latter being capable of seating 4,000 performers : its diameter is
double that of the dome of St. Paul's Cathedi-al. The gardens and grounds are beautifully
laid out with walks, flower beds, fountains, statuary, &c., and are so artificially
disposed as to make them appear even more extensive than they really are. The main
features in the grounds are the fountains and water- works ; these are on a most elaborate
and perfect scale, and are said to surpass in their completeness and design any other display
in the world, even including the famous fountains of Yersailles. There are two railway
stations adjoining the Palace, which place it in dii'cct communication with the eastern
and western districts of the metropolis. At the northern end of the promenade mentioned
above are some reservoirs in connection with the Lambeth "Water "Works.
The EoTAL XoEMAL College ajjd Academy of Music fok the Blind, in Westow
Street, ITpper Norwood, was instituted in 1874 for the purpose of affording " a thorough
general and musical education to the youthful blind of both sexes, who possess the
requisite talent, so as to qualify them for self-maintenance."
The EoMAN Catholic Orphajstage of Ouk Lady, Central Hill, Upper Norwood, was
founded in 1848, and is under the management of a religious community of ladies. The
institution contains about 320 orphan and destitute childi-eu, and likewise children of
respectable parents, but in reduced circumstances, who are lodged, fed, and clothed until
they are fit to be placed in situations as domestic servants, for which they are specially
trained. The Orphanage, which is of Gothic architecture and stands in spacious grounds,
was built in 1855, and has since been considerably enlarged.
The NoETH Surrey District School, in Ancrley Eoad, is another of the many indus-
trial establishments in the neighbourhood. The institution, which is very complete in its
arrangements, covers more than 50 acres of ground, and it provides the means of
industrial training for upwards of 1,000 destitute children.
In proceeding through Tipper Norwood the eye is arrested by the rising spire of All
Saints' Church, on Beulah Hill, erected in 1845 for the use of the increasing population of
Croydon parish, which will be hereafter described. . It is an ornament to this neighbour-
LAMBETH. „g
hood, and from its cleYatiou forms a conspicuous object for mau}^ miles arouud. The laud
on the northern side of the hill has been in a great degree cleared of its wood, and brought
iuto cultivation aud largely built upon; but towards the south the acclivities arc still
partially covered with oak. Ilcrc, near the lower part of the hill, was the Beulah Spa,
formerly a place of recreative entertainment. The estate comprised about 2G acres of
enclosed woodland, through Avhich carriage drives and winding avenues were cut,
and the grounds ornamentally laid out, under the direction of the late Mr. Decimus
Burton. The spring, or well, from Avhich the waters were drawn was in repute for
its sanative qualities among the country-people long before the opening of these grounds
in 1831.
In Hamlet Eoad, Upper E'orwood, is St. Paul's Church, which was erected in
1866. It contains sittings for about 1,100 persons. Christ Church, Gipsy Hill, was
built in 1867, and is in the early French style of architecture. The Church op St. John
the Evangelist, Auckland Eoad, Upper Norwood, dates from 1875, and is in the early
English style. St. Mark's, South Norwood, was erected in 1852 : it also is in the early
English style. This district, and likewise that of Holy Trinity adjoining, the church of
which was erected in 1867, was formed from the civil parish of Croydon.
St. Luke's Church. — This edifice, in the Grecian style, was built from the designs of
Mr. Francis Bedford, architect, and forms the base-line of a triangular plot of ground
railed in as a cemetery at the junction of two roads. It was commenced in the latter part
of 1822, but, from various alterations made in the interior, was not completed until 1825,
when it was consecrated by the late Dr. George Pretyman Tomline, Bishop of "Winchester.
The estimate for building was £12,387 8s. 3d. ; but nearly £6,000 above that amount
was afterwards expended in the alterations and fittings-up.
On the north this district is bounded by that of Brixton, on the east by Knight's Hill
and the manor of Dulwich, on the south by the parishes of Croydon and Strcatham, and on
tlie west by Strcatham.
At a short distance from St. Luke's Church, on the road leading toAvards Brixton, is an
elegant pointed archway forming the entrance to the South Metropolitan Cemetery,
otherwise called the Norwood Cemetery, Avhich occupies about 40 acres of ground, chiefly
lying on the north and north-west acclivities of a commanding eminence, upon which the
chapels stand, and from which the views of Norwood, Heme Hill, Nunhead, and adjacent
country are very fine.
Here are two chapels, erected from the designs of the late Sir "William Tite, the archi-
tect of the Eoyal Exchange. They are both in the pointed style of architecture that
HISTORY OF SURREY.
prevailed in tlie reign of Heniy VI., and are respectively used for celebrating tlie burial
service according to the ritual of the Church of England and for Dissenters.
Near the middle of the floor of the Episcopal chapel is an opening into the catacombs,
though concealed by a hearse, or catafalque, about 8 feet long, 5 feet high, and 4 feet
wide. The sides of the hearse, which are fixed, are hung with black velvet in festoons,
wrought with a deep fringe and tassels. The central part is sustained by an iron frame
attached to the pipe of an hydraulic machine placed in the vaults, and forms a bier. Upon
this, by means of steel rollers, every coflB.n brought for interment here is slowly and
silently moved to its proper situation over the aperture whilst the minister is reading the
bui-ial service. On his coming to the solemn words, "We commit this body to the earth,"
the bier and coffin sink gradually down, the pall being left above, and still concealing the
opening. Before the conclusion of the service the bier
slowly rises, and again fills up the space, but the coffin
is no more seen: it has been consigned to its final
resting-place.
The arrangement of the catacombs beneath this
chapel will be best understood from the accompanying
diagram, in which the middle avenue and transverse
passages are duly indicated. The lines show the
number of arches in each division, the entire number
being ninety-six. Within every arch are twenty-four
recesses for coffins, and consequently 2,304 interments
will take place in these vaults before any additional
catacombs are required. Every arch is 16 feet high, and 9 feet in width. The letter a
in the woodcut marks the space immediately below the catafalque in the chapel, by means
of the bier connected with which the coffins are let down.
The Jews' Hospital, in Lower Norwood, was originally established in 1806 "for the
maintenance of the aged poor, and the industrial training of friendless children." The
institution was removed hither in 1863, when the present building was erected from the
designs of Mr. Tillot. In Portland Eoad, South Norwood, is the Jewish Convalescent
Home, founded in 1869 in memory of Judith, Lady Montefiore. The School of the
Westmoreland Society was instituted in 1853 for children of Westmoreland parents
residing in and within seventy-five miles of London.
St. Saviour's Almshouse, or hospital for the poor of the parish of St, Saviour, South-
wark, in Hamilton Eoad, Lower Norwood, was erected in 1863, in consequence of the site
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CHUKOII CATACOMBS
LAMBETH. 121
of the origiual building being required for tbe Charing Cross Eiiilwaj-. The almshouse
consists of thirty-eight dwellings, -with a chapel and lodge, the inmates, male and
female, being alloAved lis. and 9s. per week respectively.
Numerous villas, designed Tvith much elegance, and rows of first-rate houses have been
erected in the Norwood district, the picturesque beauty of the neighbourhood possessing
many attractions for the affluent and the amateur of natural scenery. Several places of
worship have also been built for the accommodation of separatists ; and the Anabaptists,
Independents, Wesleyans, and Catholics have each a chapel. There are likewise several
schools, both on the National and the British principle, and also in connection with the
London School Board ; and in Elder Eoad is an Industrial Institution for the Infant Poor
of Lambeth.
St. John's Disteict, "Waterloo Eoad. — There is yet to be described another district
of those into which the extensive parish of Lambeth has been ecclesiastically divided,
namely, that of St. John, which comprehends a large portion of the tract long known as
Lambeth Marsh, and also the recently erected chapelry of All Saints. The general
boundaries of this district, as fixed by an order in Council held at Carlton House in 1824,
are as follows : — Commencing at the middle of Westminster Bridge, on the west and
north-west, an imaginary boundary-line passes through the middle of the river Thames
and "Waterloo Bridge to a short distance beyond the latter, and thence turning southward
into the Commercial Eoad, it adjoins, on the north-east and east, the parish of Christ
Church ; on the south-east a common sewer divides it from St. George's, Southwark ; and
on the south-west and south it adjoins the mother parish of St. Mary, its general southern
line from Mead Place being the Westminster Bridge Eoad.*
Long within memory much of this ground was a swampy marsh, yet still presenting
divers verdant and rural spots studded with rows of pollard willows, where small
tea gardens and other places of recreation and amusement were opened for the solace
of those who in fine weather strolled hitherward on Sundays and holidays. But now
everything is changed; crowded streets, wharfs, manufactories, &c., cover the land, and
scarcely any part of the metropolis is fraught with a more abundant population. This
is particularly observable in the great line of thoroughfare called Lambeth Marsh and
the New Cut, which connects the two main roads into Surrey leading from the bridges
of Westminster and Blackfriars. In consequence of there not being any regular markets
* Under the same order in Council districts were allotted to the newly erected churches of St. Mark, Kennington ;
St. Matthew, Brixton ; and St. Luke, Norwood, all of which, with this of St. John, had been commenced about the
same time, under the patronage of the Church Commissioners appointed under an Act of 5S George III. cap. 45. (London
Gazette, March 29th, 1825, pp. 544—547.)
122 HISTORY OF SURREY.
in this vicinity this thoroughfare has become the great retail mart for provisions, clothing,
shoes, household furniture, tools, books, and other articles of domestic use. Independently
of the shops "which line both sides of the waj^, hundreds of stalls for the sale of vegetables,
fruits, flowers, sweetmeats, &c., are pitched in tlie open street, and contribute to the
bustling activity of this busy neighbourhood.
St. John's Church was erected from the designs and under the superintendence of
F, Bedford, Esq., architect. It stands in a large open space on the eastern side of
Waterloo Eoad, and separated from it by a neat iron railing. The site was a SAvamp and
horse-pond, and great labour was necessary in order to secure a good foundation, which
was at length accomplished by deep piling. The work was commenced in 1822, and in
1823 the fli-st stone was laid by Dr. Charles Manners Sutton, Archbishop of Canterbury.
In 1824 the church was consecrated in honour of St. John the Evangelist by Dr. George
Pretymau Tomline, Bishop of Winchester. The architect's estimate for its erection,
including incidental expenses and commission, was £18,000 ; but several thousands were
afterwards expended in the fittings-up and various appendages.
This is a capacious edifice of brick, with stone dressings and a portico of stone. Its
ground-plan is a parallelogram, 120 feet in length and 67 feet in width. The entire front
on this side consists of a hexastyle portico of the Grecian-Doric order, with an entablature
and pediment, the former being continued round the building. The columns are fluted,
and the frieze is filled with a series of sculptured chaplets of myrtle instead of the proper
characteristics of the order. Beneath the portico are five entrances leading into the
vestibules of the church, galleries, and belfry. Behind the portico a somewhat lofty
steeple, in four stories, rises from the roof, and terminates in an obelisk surmounted by a
ball and cross. The lower story, which is rusticated, contains the clock dials. The next
story, of the Ionic order, has two columns on each face, with antfe at the angles, and a
louvre window in each intercolumniation. This division encloses an excellent peal of
eight bells, of which the tenor bell is 1,900 lbs. in weight.* The third story, from which
rises the pedestal that supports the obelisk, is of the same general design as that last
described, but of diminished proportions. On the north and south sides of the church a
plain course of stone divides each elevation into two stories, and each story contains six
windows, the lowermost range being nearly square, and the uppermost oblong : the large
eastern window, which is surmounted by an entablature and pediment, is also of the latter
form.
The interior, as in nearly all our modern churches of Grecian design, appears like a
* The cost of the bells and turret clock was defrayed by a pubKc subscription.
large single apartment, the space being almost -wlioll}' unbroken except by the galleries,
■vv'liieli, suj)ported by columns of tlic Doric order, are very capacious. The piers between
the windows are faced by pilasters of the Ionic order, connected with an entablature
immediately below the ceiling, ornamented hj a rich houeysuckle moulding. The ceiling
is horizontal aud panelled in recessed squares, in each of which is an expanded flower. In
the western gallery is a good organ. In an arched recess on either side, ranging oscr
the gallery stairs, are seats for the district schools. The whole number of sittings in this
chui-ch is about 2,000, of which upwards of one-third are free.
Among the few monuments here, at the east end, is one erected by subscription of the
inhabitants in commemoration of Thomas Lett, Esq., who died in 1830. lie was a great
benefoctor to this church and a magistrate of the county. It exhibits a figure of Justice,
leaning -with one arm upon a pedestal, bearing an urn, and holding a balance with the
other. On a tablet of white marble, inscribed in memory of James Thos. Goodenham
Eodwell, Esq., who died in 1825, is a sculpture in relief of an angel kneeling by a
sarcophagus. On another, in memory of Edward Vere, Esq., is sculptured a cap of
maintenance, siu-mounted by a boar passant. Ilcre also is a small marble tablet com-
memorative of the late comedian, Eobert William Elliston, who died in 1831, and was
interred in a vault below the church.
The churchyard contains some fine plane-trees, and steps were being taken in 1S7G
to lay it out as a garden, and make it available for the purposes of recreation.
Adjoining the chiu-chyard, in Church Street, are the District National Schools, erected
about fifty years ago. This street leads to what was known as the Old Ilalfpenny Hatch,
where a private footway, bordered by pollard willows, led through some garden grounds
nearly to Christ Church, and for a long series of years formed the nearest tlioroughfarc
from Lambeth to Bankside and London Bridge.
In the Waterloo Eoad, between St. John's Chm-ch and the New Cut, are two
Dissenting chapels, namely, Ziox Chapel, belonging to the Independents, aud New
Jerusalem Temple (as formerly called), built by the followers of Emmanuel Swedenborg,
but eventually transferred to a Baptist congregation. The former is a plain brick edifice,
raised in 1822, and containing accommodation for about 1,000 persons; the latter, also of
brick, was built a few years afterwards, and has a Gothic front.
Nearly opposite St. John's Church is the London terminus of the Soutli-AVestern
Eailway, together with the Waterloo Junction station of the South-Eastern Eailway.
At a short distance from St. John's Church northwards is the Eoyal Universal
Infirmary for Children and Women, a neat edifice of brick with a stone portico, built
r2
X24 HISTORY OF SURREY.
from a design gratuitously fui'uislicd by D. Laing, Esq., the architect of the Custom
House, and first opened in 1824, when the husiness of the institution was removed from
St. Andrew's Hill, Doctors' Commons. This charity was founded by the late Dr. J. B.
Davis in 1810, and many thousand patients have since participated in its benefits. It is
chiefly maintained by yearly subscriptions. The Duke of Kent assisted in founding the
Infirmary, and the Queen has long been an annual subscriber ; and the Prince of "Wales,
on whose estate, as Duke of Cornwall, the hospital stands, has allowed the committee to
purchase the freehold on advantageous terms. In 1875 the building was enlarged and
considerably improved.
"Watekloo Bridge. — This noble structure, in which grandeur of design is united with
great professional skill, has excited the admiration of many scientific foreigners, as well as
that of the fellow- citizens of its highly talented architect. Canova, the late celebrated
Italian sculptor, and most esteemed connoisseur in works of art of modern times, regarded
it as the "finest bridge in Europe," and, in expressing this opinion, he added that "it
alone was worth coming from Eome to London to see."
Waterloo Bridge crosses the Thames at a nearly equidistant point from the bridges of
Blackfriars and Westminster. Mr. Ealph Dodd, the original projector of a tunnel under
the river and of other works of a similar nature, appears to have been first engaged as
engineer on this imdertaking, but before much progress had been made the committee of
management applied to the late John Eennie, Esq., and from his designs the bridge was
built. It was erected at the expense of private individuals, incorporated by an Act of
Parliament passed in 1809, under the style of the " Strand Bridge Company," and
empowered to raise by subscription the sum of £500,000 in transferable shares of £100
each, and the additional sum of £300,000 by the issue of new shares, or by mortgage
secured on the propertj^, if it were found requisite. In 1813 the company obtained a new
Act of Parliament, authorising a further augmentation of the funds in the same manner to
the amount of £200,000 ; and a third parliamentary enactment in 1816 conferred new
powers on the proprietors, and ordained that the Strand Bridge should thenceforth be
called Waterloo Bridge. The architect furnished two designs, one for a bridge with seven
arches, and another for one with nine, the latter of which was approved of by the com-
mittee, and carried into execution. The first stone was laid in 1811.
Instead of using caissons in building the piers, the foundations were laid in cofi'er-
dams, made by driving into the bed of the river three concentric rows of piles at the
distance of about 3 feet 6 inches apart. The ground was chiefly clay covered by a stratum
of gravel, and into this were driven beech and elm piles 12 inches in diameter, and about
20 feet iu length, to form tlic fouudations of the piers, and Lctwccn these piles was
rammed in, to the depth, of 18 inch.os, Kentish ragstonc laid iu liquid mortar. The heads
of the piles being sa-n-ed off, so as to present a perfectly level siirftice, timber sills, or
bearing piles, -were fastened to it transversely and longitudinally ; to these was secured by
long spikes a flooring of six-inch plank ; and upon this was laid the first course of masonry.
The faces of the piers and abutments, and also of the arches, consist of blocks of Cornish
granite, and the interiors of Craigleith and Derbyshire stone, every course being grouted
with liquid mortar ; and, to strengthen the masonry, four chain-bars of iron were worked
transversely into each arch.
The arches are all semi-cUipscs, of 120 feet span, with an elevation of 35 feet, leaving
a height of 30 feet above the surface of the water at spring tides, and forming a clear
water-way of 1,080 feet. The piers are 30 feet in breadth at the base, and 20 at the
springing of the arches. Their dimensions in the direction of the breadth of the bridge
are 87 feet each, terminating towards the stream in angles formed by the meeting of curved
lines, and upon their extremities stand two three-quarter columns of the Grecian-Doric
order, supporting an entablature which forms the exterior of a rectangular recess, or
balcony. The sides of the bridge are defended by an open balustrade with a frieze and
cornice. The carriage road is 28 feet wide, and each foot-pavement is 7 feet in width.
The entire length of the bridge from the extremities of the abutments is 1,380 feet. The
approaches, except at the entrance to the Strand, are 70 feet wide, and are carried over a
series of semicircular arches, 10 feet each in span; that on the Strand side is 310 feet in
length, and that on the Surrey side 7 GO feet long, formed by thii-ty-nine semicircular
arches, and au elliptical arch of 20 feet span over the Narrow "Wall Eoad, and an embank-
ment about 105 yards in length. In order to complete the approaches on the Surrey side
the company were obliged to obtain a loan of £60,000 from Government on a mortgage of
the tolls, which have never produced a remunerating interest to the shareholders. Diu-ing
the closure of Westminster Bridge against carriages the traffic over this thoroughfare was
greatly increased.* This bridge was publicly opened with great ceremony by the Prince
Eegent on the 18th of June, 1817, being the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo, fought
in 1815.t A toll of one halfpenny was charged for foot-passengers over the bridge,
* After Westminster Bridge Iiad been extensively repaired, the caniage-way, wliicli liad remained closed from the
IDth of August, was again opened on December 24tli, 1846.
t In the forenoon a detachment of Horse Guards posted themselves on the bridge, and about three o'clock a discharge
of two hundred and two guns, iu commemoration of the number of cannon taken from the French, announced the arrival
of the Prince Regent and other illustrious personages, who came in barges from the Earl of Liverpool's house at Whitehall.
The royal party passed through the centre arch and landed on the Surrey side, where a procession was formed, headed by
126 HISTORY OF SURREY.
and twopence for cabs, &c. ; but in 1878-9 the bridge was bought over by tlie Metro-
politan Board of Works, and the tolls were abolished.
The Hungerfoed and Lambeth Suspension Bridge. — This was a chain foot-bridge,
extending across the Thames from Hungerford Market, which occupied the site of the
railway terminus at Charing Cross, to the opposite shore in the district of St. John, at
Lambeth, It was erected pursuant to an Act of Parliament which received the royal
assent in 1836 (6 & 7 William IV. cap. 133), constituting the proposers a body
corporate imder the style and title of "The Hungerford and Lambeth Suspension
Foot-bridge Company," and empowering them to raise the sum of £80,000 in 3.200
shares of £25 each, and the fm-ther sum of £26,000 by mortgage, if necessary for
the completion of the work. The bridge was constructed under the superintendence
of Sir I. K. Brunei, chief engineer, and Mr. Pritchard Baly, resident engineer. The
expense of the masonry and brickwork was about £63,000, and that of the ironwork
£17,000.
Prom its mode of construction and height above the river this bridge had a light and
airy appearance, strongly contrasting with the massive pile of Waterloo, in its immediate
vicinity. The platform, or pathway, sustained by chains passing over piers, formed three
reverted arches, the central arch being 676 feet in span, and the lateral arches 333 feet
each. The towers on the piers which sustained the middle arch rose to the height of about
80 feet above high-water mark. The entii-e length between the abutments in which the
end chains were strongly embedded Avas 1,352 feet, and its breadth 14 feet. The towers
were of brick, designed in what has been termed the Italian style of architecture. Through
these passed four series of broad chains, two on each side of the platform. This bridge was
first opened to the public on May Day, 1845, without any particular ceremony. The toll
for crossing it was a halfpenny. In the same year a new Act of Parliament was obtained
to amend their former Acts, &c., and alter the company's name to that of the " Charing
Cross Bridge Company."
On the formation of the West-end terminus of the South-Eastern Eailway at Charing
Cross in 1863, the suspension bridge was superseded by the present railway bridge, and
removed to Clifton, near Bristol, where it now spans the Avon. The railway bridge
consists of nine spans, or openings, and is supported by cylinders sunk into the bed of the
river, and also by the piers and abutments of the old suspension bridge, which were left
tlie Prince Eegent, -witli tlie Duke of York on liLs riglxt and the Duke of Wellington on his left, in the uniform of field-
marshals, and accompanied by a train of noblemen, ministers, and members of both Houses of Parliament. On reaching
the Middlesex side of the bridge the company le-embarked and returned to Whitehall.
LAMBETH. 127
staudiug. Besides carrying the lines of raU-vvay, this bridge has on each side a footpatli
for passengers, who pass over for a halfpenny toll.
In 17S5 the Lambeth Water "Works were established " on part of the Belvidere
wharf," * under the provisions of an Act of Parliament granted to a company of share-
holders (25 George III. cap. 89), for making " Water-works on the Narrow WaU,
Lambeth, to supply Lambeth and parts adjacent with water taken from the Thames."
The water was at first di-awu from the borders of the stream, but its foulness having
occasioned much complaint, the company subsequently obtained leave from the City of
London (as Conservators of the Thames) to procure their supply from the central part of
the river. This was done by means of a conduit pipe, or tunnel, of cast iron, 42 inches in
diameter, through which the water flowed at all times of the tide into a well in the
company's premises ou the shore, from which formerly it was forced by steam-engines
into the service pipes. Still further to improve the quality of the water, the company
in 1834 obtained another Act of Parliament, to enable them to purchase land for
constructing reservoirs for filtration, &c. This they did on Brixton Hill and Streatham,
and by mains laid from I^arrow Wall the water was forced by engine-power into the
reservoirs.
In 1848 an Act of Parliament was passed, enabling the Lambeth Water Works
Company to abandon their source of supply from the Thames at this point, and to take
water from the pure stream of the river at Ditton, some twenty-three miles higher up the
river, and far beyond the reach of the tide.
Narrow Wall (now the Belvidere Eoad) was an ancient embankment and trackway
running parallel with the Thames, and so called to distinguish it from Broadwall, another
embankment extending southwards from the river, and separating the parish of Chiist
Church from Lambeth Marsh. Narrow Wall, Yine Street, and Cornwall Eoad are all
noticed in views of London delineated in Queen Elizabeth's reign, but no houses seem
connected with either avenue, except a few in and about Vine Street. The lower part of
this street, in which are several very old and ruinous wooden houses, is now from 8 to 10
feet below the level of the adjacent streets, the ground having been greatly rai.sed in all
this part of the Marsh.
* Tliis wharf derived its name from the Belvidere House and Gardens, a place of public entertainraent ^\hich
occupied this spot in Queen Anne's reign, and would seem from its situation to have been immediately adjacent to Caper's
Garden (see ante, pp. 78-9), the site of which is now crossed by the Waterloo Road. Dr. Rawlinson, in his additions to
Aubrey, imagines the Belvidere Gardens, which (writing about 1719) he mentions as "lately sold by Mr. England to
Mr. Theobald," to have been the site of a celebrated saw-mill erected during the supremacy of Oliver Cromwell, and with
the contrivance of which the Protector was so well pleased, that notwithstanding the clamours and objections of workmen,
surveyors, &c., he had it confirmed by an Act of Parliament. (Aubrey's " Surrey," voh v. pp. 277, 278.)
128 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Near King's Arms Stairs, at Ifarrow Wall, extensive premises were occupied during a
period of almost sixty years by Coade and Seeley's manufactory of burnt artificial stone
(or terra-cotta), said to liaA'e originated with tlie elder Bacon, an eminent sculptor, but
first established on this spot by Mrs. Coade in 17G9.* It afterwards became widely
celebrated, much of the statuarj', &c., being executed from Bacon's models and designs.
About 1827 the manufacture was removed to the neighbourhood of Tottenham Court
Road.
Stamford Street IjNiTArjAN Chapel is a capacious building. Its front consists of an
extended classical portico of the Doric order, exhibiting six massive columns, fluted,
supporting an entablature and pediment.
In Stamford Street are the Schools of the Benevolent Society of St. Pateick, an
institution commenced in 1784, and remodelled in 1786, when it was resolved that the
objects of the society should be restricted to the establishment of schools in and near
London, for the education of poor children born of Irish parents in and near the metro-
polis. Shortly afterwards, the surviving members of the Irish Charitable Society,
originally established in 1704, but which had been long in abeyance, proposed to add their
stock, about ^£1,090, to the funds of the Benevolent Society, on the condition that the
relief bestowed should always be conferred without regard to the particular religious tenets
of the objects of their benevolence, and their proposal was readily agreed to. This
society has been extensively patronised. Its funded property in 1846 amounted to
£30,600 3 per cents., towards which £3,780 had been contributed by George IV.,
£890 by William IV., £320 by the late Queen-Dowager Adelaide, and £825 by her
Majesty Queen Victoria, under whose patronage the society is now supported. Its present
annual income is about £2,000.
During many years the childi'en were jjlaced in difi'ercnt schools throughout the
metropolis, but in 1815 the funds became suflicient to enable the committee to erect the
present building. It consists of a central division, including committee-rooms and other
apartments, and two low wings containing separate schoolrooms for the boys and girls.
The general management of the society is vested in a president, vice-presidents, a treasurer,
and other officers.
In York Eoad is the General Lying-in Hospital (formerly the Westminster Hospital),
a most beneficent institution, deriving its origin from the meritorious exertions of Dr. John
* The noble monument of the Earl of Chatham in Westminster Abbey was one of the productions of Bacon. He
died in 1799, and in a brief memoir of liis life published in the Gentleman's Magazine for that year (vol. Ixix. p. 808) ia
this statement : — " It was during Mr. B.'s apprenticeship that he formed a design of maMng Statues in artificial stone,
which he afterwards perfected."
LAMBETH. 119
Leako, an eminent physician and practitioner in midwifery. In 17G5 he pnrcliased some
gronnd in the Westminster Bridge Eoad, where the Hospital was first built ; and when the
building was raised he generously assigned over his interest to the governors for the
benefit of the charity. This institution was incorporated in 1830, about wliich tiiiio the
present structure Avas erected. It is a handsome, spacious, and well-built edifice, exhiltitiug
in the centre of the principal front a recessed portico of four columns of the Ionic order,
approached by a flight of steps, and forming the main entrance. In-patients are received
from all parts of the kingdom, chiefly the wives of industrious artisans and of poor
soldiers and seamen ; even necessitous single women who can produce satisfactory testi-
monials of general good conduct, and appear to be real objects of commiseration, are
admitted here, but this indulgence is in every case restricted to the first off'spring of
misconduct. The delivery of married women (with professional advice and medicine), as
out-patients, at their own habitations in the metropolis and its environs, forms a branch
of this charity.
The ToRK EoAD Congregational CnAPEL is a neat edifice of brick, designed in the
lancet style, but with duplicated windows. In front is a recessed entrance, and below the
chapel are schools both for boys and girls.
All Saints' Church, York Street. — Though chiefly designed in the iinglo-lS'orman
style. All Saints' displays much originality in arrangements and decoration, and was built
at the cost of £G,400, Mr. William Eogers being the architect. The fii-st stone was laid
in 1844, and the building was finished in 1845.
The principal entrance was originally in the main thoroughfare known as Lower
Marsh, This entrance opened into a long corridor from a recessed arch, decorated with
zigzag and other mouldings, wrought in the basement story of a well-proportioned
campanile tower of thi-ee stories, 80 feet in height, surmounted by a slender spire. The
doorway in the lower story and the headings and decorations of the middle and upper
stories are semicircular : the upper story is finished by a pierced parapet, with ornamental
pinnacles at the angles. The body of the church, which is of brick, stands some yards
back, behind the houses, and the entrance is now in York Street, The interior consists of
nave and aisles, terminated by a recessed angular chancel. The nave is on each side
separated from the aisles by five lofty iron columns, cast to resemble the clustered shafts
of the lancet style : from these spring semicircular stilted arches, enriched with ornaments
of an arabesque character. The roof is of timber framework, stained to resemble oak.
On each side of the church, in the lower part, are eight long semicii-cular-headed
windows : a similar number are in the clerestory. At the west end is a handsome rose
VOL. III. S
130 HISTORY OF SURREY.
window, and beneath it a range of narrow apertures wliicli admit light to that part ol' the
nave. The recess forming the chancel is lighted, in a subdued but harmonious tone, by a
semi-dome skylight filled with stained glass.
Attached to the church in York Street are All Saints' National and Infant Schools,
which were opened in 1854.
The last remains of a large old mansion traditionally called Bishop Bonner's House,
which stood at a little distance from the Marsh Gate, and part of which had been occupied
as a boarding school, -were taken down in 1823. There is no certain proof, however, that
it had ever been inhabited by Bonner, though in support of the tradition a passage has
been cited from Strype's " Memorials of Archbishop Cranmer," stating that on March 24th,
1637-8, Henry Holbeach was consecrated Suffragan Bishop of Bristol, "in the Bishop of
London's Chapel, in the said bishop's house, situate in Lambeth Marsh." But in this
instance Strypo was in error, and, as he afterwards acknowledged, had inadvertently
written London instead of Kochester, the ordination having really taken place at La Place,
the house of John Hilsey, Bishop of Eochester, near Lambeth Palace. The Bishops of
London never had a residence at Lambeth.*
The Eoyal Coboueg, now the Victoria, Theatre. — This capacious structure, which
stands at the south intersection of the Waterloo Bridge Koad with the New Cut, had its
origin from a disagreement between Thomas "West, Esq., the ground landlord of the Eoyal
Circus (now the Surrey Theatre) and Messrs. Jones and Dunn, the leaseholders of that
establishment, the latter deeming it more advantageous to erect a new theatre than to pay
an exorbitant rent as yearly tenants. Fixing, therefore, upon the site of the present
building, then an open field, and being joined by Mr. Serres, jun. (son of Dominic Serres,
an eminent marine painter), they obtained, by his interest, the patronage of the late
Princess Charlotte of Wales and her consort Leopold, Prince of Saxe Cobourg, and the
* Vide. Denne's "Addenda," &c. in "Bibl. Topograpliia Britannic;)/' No. V. p. 2-i4, and "Wharton's "Observations"
on Strype's " Memorials," attached to the Oxford edition printed in 1812, vol. ii. p. 1047. The Lambeth residence of the
Bishopa of Eochester, originally called La Place, and afterwards Carlisle House, from its change of o-svnershiij, has been
noticed in page 80. In the " Life and Death of Bishop Fisher," ■svritten by Dr. Eichard Hall in Queen Elizabeth's
reign, but not p\iblished until 1653, a somewhat different account is related from that given by Stow of the execrable
attempt made to poison Bishop Fisher at La Place (see p. 80), viz. : — " The Bishop escaped a very great danger : for one
R. Eose came into the Bishop's Kitchen (being acquainted with the Cook) at his House in Lambeth Marsh, and having
provided a quantity of deadly poyson, whiles the Cook went into the Buterie to fetch him some drink, he took his oppor-
tunity to throw that poyson into a mess of gruell, prepared for the Bishop's dinner ; and after he had stayed there awhile,
went his way : but so it liappened that, when the Bishop was called unto his dinner, he had no appetite to any meat, but
wished his servants to fall to, and be of good chear, and that he would not eat till towards night. The servants being set
to dinner, they that did eat of the poysoned dish were miserably infected, wliereof one gentleman, named Bennot Cawen,
and an old widow, died sodainly, and the rest never recovered their health till their dying day. The person that did this
wicked deed was afterwards for that ofifence, boyled alive in Smithfield, in the 22d y of K. Henry's reign." — Life, etc.,
of Bishop Fisher, p. 101.
first stone was laid by their proxj-, Mr. Aldormau Goodbclierc, in October, ISIG. The
ground, T\'hieh is copyhold, is held of the manor of Lambeth (though not immediately of
the lord) at a yearly rent of £80. On account of the s^yampy condition of this spot, it
being directly adjacent to one of the largo and ancient ditches made for the drainage of
Lambeth Marsh, a great part of the stone materials of the old Savoy Palace, in the Strand
(then undergoing demolition), was used in securing the foundations. The designs for this
theatre were fui'nished by Cabanel, a native of Liege, and it was first regularly oldened on
Whit-Monday, 1818. This is a well-built, uniform edifice, but has no pretensions
exteriorly to architectural distinction. The auditorium, which is nearly of a semicircular
figure, rises to a height of about 50 feet, aud is capable of holding 2,800 persons. This
theatre is now styled the Eoyal Yictoria Theatre. The interior has been recently entirely
remodelled and handsomely decorated in the Italian style.
In Oakley Street, at the Oakley Arms, on ISTovember IGth, 1802, Colonel Edward
Marcus Despard and thirty-two other persons Avere ajjprchendcd on a charge of treason-
able conspii-acy against the King and the Government. In the February following the
Colonel and his associates were tried by a special commission at the Surrey Sessions
House, and, being all found guilty, seven of them, including Despard, were executed
on the 21st at Horsemonger Lane Gaol.
Several other places of amusement, besides those already described, existed at different
times in this neighbourhood. Of these, the Temple of Flora, situated near the middle of
Mount Eow, and the Apollo Gardens, near the junction of the Kenningtou and Westminster
Bridge Eoads, were opened for music, dancing, &c., about 1788 ; but, like the Dog and
Duck in St. George's Fields, they were ultimately suppressed by the magistracy, in
consequence of the loose and profligate purposes for which they Avere frequented. Another
and much older place of entertainment, called Lambeth Wells, in Tkree Coney Walk
(noAY Lambeth Walk), Avas in existence in King William's reign, and had possibly been
opened at an earlier period. It Avas in repute for its mineral waters, Avhich were drawn
from two wells, and sold at a penny per quart, " being the same price paid by St. Thomas's
Hospital."* Here, about the middle of the last century, a musical society, under the
direction of Mr. Sterling GoodAvin, organist of St. Saviour's, Southwark, held its meetings,
and lectures were read and experiments exhibited on Natural Philosophy by Mr. Erasmus
King, formerly coachman to Dr. Desaguliers. Afterwards, having been deprived of a
license, the dancing-room was let to a Methodist preacher, who used the music gallery for
a pulpit. Within memory, however, it continued open as a tea garden, but the attached
* See advertisement in the Postman of March 28th, 1700.
s 2
132 HISTORY OF SURREY.
premises have been since either built on or converted to other pm-poses. The dwelling-
house, also rebuilt, has been known for many years by the sign of the Fountaia.
Lambeth was first constituted a borough, and empowered to return two representatives
to the House of Commons, by the first Eeform Act, passed in June, 1832, and its
boundaries were settled by another Act (2 & 3 William lY. cap. 64), which received the
royal assent in the following month.*
Memhers of Parliament for the Borough of Lambeth from 1832 : —
f Right Hon. Charles Tennyson.
( Benjamin Hawes, Esq.
1835. The Same. (In July, 1835, Mr. Tennyson olitained the royal license to
assume the surname of D'Etncourt, piirsuant to his father's will.)
1837.
The Same.
1841,
The Same.
1847.
\ Right Hon. Charles Tenntson-D'Eyncourt.
[ Charles Pearson, Esq.
1852.
I William Arthur Wilkinson, Esq.
( William Williams, Esq.
1857.
f William Williams, Esq.
\ William Roupell, Esq.
1859.
The Same.
18G2.
On retirement of Mr. Roupell, Frederick Doulton, Esq., was elected.
1865.
i Frederick Doulton, Esq.
( Thomas Hughes, Esq.
1868.
{ Sir James Clarke Lawrence, Bart.
( "William M' Arthur, Esq.
1874.
The Same.
KEWINGTON, OR NEWINGTON BUTTS.
This parish, which forms a portion of the vast suburbs of London south of the Thames,
adjoins the parish of St. George, Southwark, on the north and east, Camberwell on the
south, and Lambeth on the west. Walworth (described as a manor in the Doomsday
Book) was probably, in the middle of the eleventh century, the only inhabited part of this
parish, of which it has since become a hamlet. A church at Walworth is mentioned in the
jSTorman survey, and Mr. Lysons says, " It seems probable that at the rebuilding of that
church upon a new site it was surrounded M'ith houses, which obtained the appellation of
ISTeweton, as it is called in all the most aucicnt records : it was afterwards spelt Newenton,
and Newington." f
* In the last Act the boundaries are thus described : — " The Parish of St. Mary Newington, the Parish of St. Giles
Camberwell, except the Manor and Hamlet of Dulwich, and also such Part of the Parish of Lambeth as is situate to the
Korth of the Line herein-after described, including the Extra-parocliial Space encompassed by such Part :— From the
Point at which the Road from London to Dulwich leaves the Road from London over Heme Hill in a straight Line to
St. Matthew's Church at Brixton ; thence in a straight Line to a Point in the Boundary between the respective Parishes
of Lambeth and Clapham 150 Yards South of the Middle of the Carriage-way along Acre Lane."
+ " Environs," vol. i. p. 389.
NEWIXGTOX. ,33
This place JouLtloss derived its distinctive appellation from the Eutts placed lierc
for the convenience of the people, that Ihey might exercise themselves in archery.
It is stated that the earliest record in Avhich the name Xe-\vington Pmtts has been
noticed is the Picgistcr of Archbishop Pole at Lambeth Talaco, imder the date 1558.
Eutts for bowmen to shoot at for practice were ordered by royal authority to be set
up in the fields near Loudon in the reign of Henry VIIL, and both James I. and
Charles I. issued directions that the butts destroyed in consequence of enclosures should
be restored.*
Stow mentions this place as the scene of one of the religious tragedies which disgraced
the reign of lEeury Till., while the Church was under the government of Archbishop
Cranmer: — "The 2nth of Aprill, 1540, one named ]Maundeucld, another named Colons,
and one other, were examined in S. Margarets church, and were condemned for
Anabaptists, and were on the 3. of May brent in the high way, beyond Southwa'rk,
towards Ncwenton." t
The only manor in this parish is that of AValworth. Edmund Ironside gave it to
Ilitard, his jester, who, in the reign of Edward the Confessor, being desirous to visit the
" threshold of the apostles " at Rome, went to the Church of Christ at Canterbury, and, with
the consent of the King, gave the vill of Walworth to that church. :J: The following
account appears in the Doomsday Book : —
" Baiuiard holds of the Archbishop [of Canterbury] "Walcorde, which in the time of
King Edward was appropriated for the clothing of the monks. It was then assessed at
5 hides : now at 3i hides. The arable land amounts to 3 carucatcs. One carucatc is in
demesne ; and there are fourteen villains, and five bordars, with 3 carucates. There is a
church ; and there are 8 acres of meadow. In the time of King Edward, it was valued
at 30s., afterwards at 20s., and now at GOs."
In 1317 the moulvs of Christ Church had a grant of free-warren in their manor of
Walworth. In the reigns of Edward III., Eichard II., and subsequently, the manor was
held by persons of a family whose name was derived from this place. Jlargaret de
Walworth is mentioned as lady of the manor in a Ecgister of William of Wykeham,
Bishop of Winchester, in 139C; and Sir George Walworth died seized of it in 1474. §
But these persons, and others said to have held the manor, were probably lessees under
the ecclesiastical lords of the fee. Uenry VIII. in 1540, having suppressed the
monastery of Christ Church, established a dean and twelve prebendaries in the room of
* Lysons, " Environs," vol. i p. 389. t Clironicle, p. 974.
X Dugdale, " Monasticon Anglicanuni,'' vol. i. p. 07. § Escheats, 13 Edw. IV. No. 47.
,3+ HISTORY OF SURREY.
the prior and monks, and bestowed on tliem this and other estates, which still belong to
the Dean and Chapter of Canterbury.
In the Taluation of Church property in 26 Henry YIII. the manor of Walworth is
rated among the estates of Christ Chiu-ch, Canterbury, at £37 8s. It appears from the
Testa de Nevill that in the reign of Henry III. the Queen's goldsmith held of the King,
in capite^ 1 acre of land in Niweton by the service of rendering a gallon of honey.
The Advowsox.— It is stated in the record just cited that Eoger de Sussex held the
church of Niwetun, valued at 8 marks, of the gift of Stephen, Archbishop of Canterbury.
The patronage was afterwards vested in the Earls of Pembroke, of the family of Valence,
probably by grant of the prior and convent. Henry YIII. obtaiued the advowson from
Archbishop Cranmer in exchange for other property, and shortly before his death gave
it to the Bishop of Worcester, who had a confirmation of the grant from Edward YI.
It has ever since been vested in the bishops of that see. The benefice is a rectory, in
the peculiar jurisdiction of the Archbishops of Canterbury, valued in the Taxation of
Pope Nicholas at 22 marks, and in the King's books at £16.
Rectors of Newington Butts in and since 1800 : —
1. — Charles de GuiffanUerc, M.A. Instituted in 1793.
2. — Samuel Picart, M.A, Instituted in 1810.
Z.— Arthur Cyril Onsloiv, M.A. Instituted in 1812.
4. — William Dalri/mple Maclagan. Instituted in 1869.
5. — George Thomas Palmer, M.A. Instituted in 1875.
Independently of the parish chiu'ch, dedicated to St. Mary, there are now several
others, besides numerous chapels for different classes of Dissenters.
The old Church or St. Maey's was built between 1791 and 1793, in place of a much
earlier but smaller structure, of the origin of which we have no account. The expense of
building, about £3,500, was defrayed by a rate levied for thi-ee years on the parishioners.
It was a plain edifice of brick, and had a low tower at the west end, sui'mounted by a
cupola and bell turret.
This edifice was demolished and the building materials sold in 1870, and it is a
somewhat strange fact that scarcely any trace of the former churches which here stood from
pre-Norman times could be discovered. The site of the old church is now marked by a
lofty stone clock tower, designed by Mr. Jarvis, and erected by the munificent liberality
of E. S. Paulconer, Esq., who for some years filled the office of churchwarden.
The new church, which is a very spacious structure, is on the east side of Kenniugton
NEWIiXGTO.Y. ,35
Park Eoad : it is from a design of Mr, James Fowler, of Louth. It is of early English
character, and, when the square tower is completed, will he of imjiosing aspect. The
interior is very plain and massive, the chief enrichments consisting of painted glass. Mr.
A. B. Bryer was the donor of the east Afindow ; and the west window is a memorial to the
late Eichard Cuming, Esq., a man of vast learning and ability, who for ninety years was
an inhabitant of the parish. It was a gift to th.e church from bis son and daughter. Both
these windows, as well as some on the south side of the church, arc the productions of
Mr. Daniel Bell. The new church was consecrated by the Bishop of London in 1876.
Although the Church of St. Mary is removed for some distance from its ancient site,
there has been erected in one corner of the old churchyard an inelegant chapel-like
building of red brick dedicated to St. Gabriel.
The old church contained several interesting monuments : among them one for Sir
Hugh Brawne, wlio " for the space of 22 years was tlie Avhole ornament of the parish,"
as the inscription stated. It ended thus : — •
Keader, it pleas'd the Almiglity to infuse
Sence of his goodness in my fleshy heart ;
Faith quicken'd Love ; Love did his Church--n-ork chuse,
Both jointly here to shew ourselves in part.
His be tlie glory ; Peace (Soule's Sabbath) mine ;
Prayer, Thanksgiving, Use, Example, thine.
1614. Vivensposui, Anno cclatis 77.
Against the east wall in the chancel was a monument of white marble, erected by the
late Bishop Horsley in memory of Sarah, his second wife. It was ornamented with a
sculpture of an open book lying upon a mitre and crosier, with a cross above them. She
died in 1805. The inscription recording her virtues, in Latin, was written by her bereaved
partner. Beneath, an inscription written by the Eev. Heneage Horsley, M.A. (the
Bishop's son by his first wife, and a Canon of St. Asaph), commemorated the Bishop
himself, who died in 1806, and was buried here in the same vault with his second wife.
On the demolition of the old church the Bishop's remains were removed to a vault in
Thorley Chui-ch, Herts.
Against the same wall was a monument of white marble, at the upper part of which
was an urn, with an extinguished torch and an open book, thus inscribed : —
1. Ep. Pet. Cap. ii. Ver. 17 — Deum timete, Eegem honorate. Juxta hoc marmor sepultus est Rev. Cauolus
DE GoiFFARDiEKE, A.M. hujusce parochiaj per sexdecun annos Rector. Amicis semper deflendus, obiit l"" die
Januarii, anno Domini MDCCCX""", Ectatis suie LXX"'°.
On the south wall was a tablet in memory of Captain Martin Waghorn, of his
136
HISTORY OF SURREY.
Majesty's royal navy, ayL.0 died in 1787. He was one of the few jDersous wlio escaped
from the Rotjal George., sunk off Si)ithead, June 28th, 1782.
The churchyard, much enlarged under an Act of Parliament of George II. in 1757,
and further extended in 1834, contains numerous tombs and other sepulchral memorials,
of which our limits will not admit particulars.*
The Eegisters of this parish, commenced in 15G1, but very imperfect until about 1670,
include the subjoined instances of longevity, viz. : —
Edward Allen, aged 107 3'ears and upwards, buried January 20, 1686.
Sarah Wood, a^ed 101 ) , ... .,,,,,„„
„ , ' ° 5 buried April 5tli, 1701.
Mary Ralf, aged 100 ) ^ '
Christopber Coward, aged 102, buried December 16, 1703.
Widow Jeweller, aged 106, buried August 30, 1706.
Adjacent to the churchyard stood the parsonage-house, of which Lysons, writing in
1791, says, "It is built of wood, appears to be very ancient, and is surrounded by a
moat, which has four bridges." f This interesting old building was pulled dovni in 1872.
In the course of demolition portions of the original sixteenth-century structure were
brought to light, notably the stonework of an early Tudor fireplace. A new and commo-
dious rectory, designed by Mr. Christian, has been built in close proximity to the new
church in Kennington Park Eoad. The attached glebe consisted of the garden and two
small fields. Some adjoining land, on which Queen's Head Eow, Church Eow, Parsonage
Eow, &c., now stand, was let on a building lease for ninety-nine years, under the authority
of an Act of Parliament obtained in 1757 or 1758, by the Eev. John Horsley (Bishop
Horsley's father), who resigned this living in the latter year in favour of his son, who
continued to hold it until his promotion to the see of Eochester in 1793.
At a short distance from the site of the old church are the United National Charitj'
and Sunday Schools, erected in 1820 for the instruction of 1,000 children, and supported
by voluntary contributions. They have been rendered much more commodious within
* Among those wliicb in the last century were regarded as the most conspicuous was that of William AUen, son of
a cowkeeper in this parish, who was shot by a soldier during the riots in St. George's Fields in 1768, when the celebrated
Wilkes was coniined for political offences in the King's Bench Prison. In the inscription it is stated that Allen was
" inhumanly murdered on the lOtli of May, by Scottish detachments from the army," to which are added the impre-
cation, " Oh ! Earth, cover not my Blood," and other texts of Scripture, expressive of the feelLags of the bereaved parent
by whom the memorial was erected. A soldier was subsequently tried for the alleged crime, and acquitted, as it was not
proved to the satisfaction of the jury that he was the man who fired at the deceased. The periodicals of the time shovv'
the strong indignation against the Government which this unfortunate occurrence excited in the public mind.
+ " Environs," vol. i. p. 394. From this account of the situation of the parsonage, it must be evident that the
adjacent ground was very marshy; and Stow, under the date September 30th, 1555, mentions that "by occasion of great
wind, and raine that had fallen, was such great floods that all the marshes on Lambeth side were so ovei-flowne that the
people from Newington church could not passe on foote, but were caried by boate from the said church to the Pinfold,
neare to St. George's in Southwarke." — Chronicle, p. 1061, edit. 1600.
NEWIXGTOX. 137
recent years by several large class-rooms and a si:)acious playground, the latter being a
portion of tbc garden of the old rectory. Board Schools have sprung up in various parts
of the parish.
Maitland, in his notices of Newington and Kotherhithe, says that " on the west side of
Hunt's, or the Fishmongers' Alms-houses, is a moorish ground, with a small water-course
denominated the river Tygri's, which is part of Cnut's trench ; — the outtiux of which is on
the cast side of Eotherhithe parish, where the great wet-dock is situate." * In reference
to this passage it may be noticed that in 1823, when the road between the almshouses and
Newington Church was dug up for a new sewer, some piles and posts were discovered with
rings for mooring barges, &c. ; also a tin pot containing coins of the reigns of Charles II.
and King William. An old parishioner named Fearns, who died at the age of one
hundred and nine years, in the early part of the present century, often said that he
remembered when boats used to come up as far as the church at Newington.
The Drapees' Almshouses, in Cross Street, were founded by Mr. John Walter, clerk
to the Drapers' Company, for poor single men and women. The inmates are eight in
number : each has a distinct apartment. Another almshouse, formerly in connection with
this parish, was fovmded by James Hulbert, fishmonger, for twenty poor men and women.
This was imder the direction of the Fishmongers' Company, and adjoined their own
almshouses at the corner of St. George's Eoad. In 1851 the Fishmongers' Almshouses
were removed to Wandsworth. On part of the ground formerly occupied by the Fish-
mongers' Almshouses now stands the Metropolitan Taeernacle, a large edifice erected
in 1859 — Gl for the congregation of Mr. C. H. Spurgeon.
On the south side of Newington Causeway were erected, in pm-suancc of an Act of
Parliament passed in 1791, from the designs and under the dii'cction of Mr. George Gwilt,
the county surveyor and architect, the Hoesemonger Lane Gaol and Surrey Sessions
House. The ground, about 3^ acres, previously occupied as a market garden, was
purchased, together with the lessee's interest, for the sum of £1,350. The buildings were
completed and fitted up in 1798 and 1799 at the additional cost of £39,742 lis., inclusive
of the siuweyor's charge of £2,100 for plans, estimates, and superintendence. A further
cost of £3,000 was incui-red in 1809, when several houses were purchased and pulled
down, and a handsome approach made from the high-road. This prison, which was
demolished in 1878, was long the place of execution for criminals from Surrey.
It was a quadrangular building, three stories in height above the basement, the keeper's
house being in the centre and overlooking all the yards. Three sides were appropriated to
* " London," pp. 1388-89, edit. 1772.
VOL. III. T
,38 HISTORY OF SURREY.
the confinement of felons, and one side for debtors. Among tlie several small benefactions
enjoyed by the debtors down to tbe time of tbe abolition of imprisonment for debt was a
donation made to tbe old White Lion Prison in Southwark (mentioned by Stow) by
Mrs. Margaret Symcott, or Eleanor Gwynn, of sixty-five penny loaves, every eight weeks,
issuing from the Chamberlain's office.*
Trinity Chuech, Trinity Square, near Blaceman Street. — This church, situated on
the Bermondsey verge of the parish, was, together with St. Peter's, Walworth, erected under
the provisions of an Act of Parliament (1 George IV. cap. 41) for " Building two new
Churches or Chapels in the Parish of St. Mary, Newington Butts," which received the
royal assent in 1820. About fifty trustees were appointed to carry this statute into
execution, and the " Commissioners for Building and promoting the Building of new
Churches," &c., imder the Acts of 58 & 59 of George III., were empowered to divide
the parish into three separate ecclesiastical districts, but reserving to the Archbishops of
Canterbury all the rights and powers which they had heretofore exercised within the
parish of Newington. This has since been done, one district being attached to the old
Church of St. Mary, and the others assigned to the new Churches of Trinity and St. Peter.
Trinity Church was erected from the designs of Praneis Bedford, Esq., already
mentioned as the architect of several churches in the northern parts of Surrey. The
ground was given by the Corporation of the Trinity House, who possess considerable
property in the vicinity, and the first stone was laid in 1823 by Archbishop Sutton.
In 1824 the new chui'ch was consecrated by the same primate. The cost of building
was £13,316, about one moiety of which was defrayed by voluntary subscriptions, and
the other by borrowed aid from the parliamentary fund.
This edifice, chiefly of brick with stone dressings, consists of a parallelogram (about
110 feet long by 60 feet wide), forming the body of the church, and ranging east and
west ; an advanced portico of the Corinthian order, with entrance vestibules on the north
side (a disposition rendered expedient by the near contiguity of the surrounding houses) ;
and a steeple of three stages surmounting the roof behind the portico. This latter consists
of six fluted columns sustaining a plain entablature (continued as a finish around the
church) and a pediment. The lower story of the steeple contains the bells and clock dials ;
* Manniiig and Bray, " Surrey," vol. iii. Appendix XVI. Sto-w, in enumerating the prisons in Southwark at the close
of the sixteenth century, says, " Then is the White Lion, a Gaole so called, for that the same was a common Hostery, for
the receit of travellers, hy that signe. This house was first used as a Gaole within this three-score yeeres last, siuce the
which time the prisoners were once remoued thence to an house in Newtowne [Newington], where they remained for a
short time, and were returned hacke agaiu to the aforesaid White Lyon, there to remain, as the appointed Gaole for the
County of Surrey." — (Survey of London, p. 780, edit. 1618.) In the following century this gaol became too ruinous for
use, and the prisoners were transferred to the Marshalsea.
NEWhYGTO.Y. ,39
the second story is of the Doric order, with weather boarding in the intercolumuiations ;
the third consists of a square pedestal forming the plinth, or basement, of an octagonal
turret, crowned by a ball and cross. On each side the church are two ranges of scgmcnt-
arehed windows, and at the cast end are an entablature and pediment corresponding with
the northern front.
The interior affords accommodation for nearly 2,000 persons. The galleries arc sup-
ported by Doric columns, and the ceiling is divided into square compartments by inter-
secting architraves, the centre of each being ornamented with an expanded flower. The
interior was redecorated in 18G7. Handsome railings of cast iron surround the church,
and in the small adjacent plantation is a statue of Alfred the Great.
All Saints' Chitech, Surrey Square, was built in 1865 from the designs of Mr. Parris,
and is of Gothic architectm-e. It was burnt in 1869, but restored and consecrated in
the following year. St. Andrew's, in Deverell Street, New Kent Eoad, is a mission
church. A permanent structure is in coiu'se of erection. The Church of St. Gabriel, near
the Elephant and Castle, is a chapel-of-ease served by the clergy of St. Mary's. The
edifice, which was consecrated in 1874, is of the "first pointed" style of architecture,
and was built from the designs of Mr. Cutts. St. Matthew's, in the New Kent Eoad,
was consecrated in 1867. It is a brick building of Gothic design, by Jarvis, and contains
1,100 sittings, 600 of which are free.
At a short distance from the eastern side of "Walworth Eoad, near Beckford Place,
is St. Peter's Church, a composition from the classic orders, erected from the designs of
Sir John Soane. The fii-st stone was laid by Archbishop Sutton in 1823, immediately
subsequent to his performance of the like ceremony at Trinity Church, and it was con-
secrated by the same primate in 1825. The cost, including incidental expenses, amounted
to £19,126, about one-half of which was raised by subscription, and the residue borrowed
at interest from the parliamentary fimd. The body of the church is of brick, but
the steeple and architectural decorations are of stone. In the centre of the west
front, flanked by two high-arched windows, is a recessed portico, composed of four
columns of the Eoman-Ionic order, suj^porting an entablature, above which is an orna-
mental balustrade. The steeple, rising from an elevated plinth behind the portico, consists
of two stories : the lower one, square in plan, is of the Corinthian order, and the upper-
most circular, Avith a peristyle of eight composite columns surmounted by a dome and a
lofty gilt vane. The interior arrangements are impressive in efi"ect. The altar windows
are cm-iched with stained glass. In the middle window an oval medallion displays a full-
sized head of our Saviour crowned with thoi-ns, and in the side windows are delineated
t 2
,40 HISTORY OF SURREY.
the Cliarge of St. Peter, and the Angel delivering St. Peter from Prison.* The
ceiling is panelled, and ornamented with expanded flowers and foliage in plastic. The
number of sittings is about 2,000, of which one-foui'th are free. Beneath the church are
capacious and well-ventilated catacombs.
All Souls' Chtjech, Grosvenor Park, "Walworth, consecrated in 1871, is of early-
English architecture, from the designs of Messrs. Jarvis. St. John's, in York Street,
is of similar architecture, and has sittings for 1,000 worshippers. St. Mark's, in East
Street, was also built from the designs of Messrs. Jarvis. It is of English Gothic archi-
tecture, and was consecrated in 1874. St. Paul's, Lorrimore Square, is a large handsome
edifice of early English architecture. It was consecrated in 1856, and is noted for its
litualistic services. St. Stephen's, "Walworth Common, was consecrated in 1871. It
is of Italian Gothic architecture, and contains sittings for 800 Avorshippers.
A vast change has taken place in Walworth and its neighbourhood. Walworth
Common and Lock's Fields (formerly a swamp) have been entirely covered with houses,
and at the present time scarcely an acre of ground remains vacant, except the Surrey-
Zoological Gardens. Various chapels have likewise been erected in different situations for
Anabaptists, "Particular" Baptists, Independents, Wesleyans, &e. Clayton's Chapel, in
York Street, Lock's Fields, is sufficiently capacious for nearly 2,000 persons. In
Beresford Street also is an Episcopal chapel, originally built in 1818, and affording accom-
modation for about 1,600 persons.
The Surrey Gardens. — These Gardens were established in 1831, in the early part
of which year a public meeting was held at the Horns Tavern, Kenniugton, for the purpose
of founding a zoological and botanical institution on the general plan of that in the Eegent's
Park, by means of a fund of £10,000, to be raised by voluntary donations and debentures
of £25 each. This attempt was unsuccessful ; but shortly after, Mr. Edward Cross
(proprietor of the grand menagery long exhibited at Exeter Change, and subsequently at
the King's Mews), assisted by some friends, obtained a lease of the demesne attached to
the manor-house at Walworth, and in 1831 he laid the first stone of the conservatory, or
principal building, and the Gardens were publicly opened in the following month. The anni-
versary of that event was celebrated in 1832 by a " Fancy Fair and Fete Champetre," under
the patronage of Queen Adelaide and many of the chief nobility, on which occasion there
were upwards of 10,000 visitors. The animals were removed from the grounds several years
ago, and for some time past the place has ceased to be used for the purposes of entertainment.
* The central window was the gift of — Firth, Esq., an inhabitant of -W^alworth ; the side -nindows were presented
by the architect, Sir John Soane.
ROTHERHITHE. 14,
These Gardens are situated between tlie Kennington and Walworth Eoads, at the nearly
equal distance of one mile and a quarter from the three bridges of London, Blackfriars,
and Westminster. They comprise an extent of about 15 acres of groimd, together with a
lake (with islands, &c.) of about 3 acres, on the borders of which, in 1837, a scenic
representation, by Dansen, was first shown of " Mount Ycsuvius and Bay of Naples : "
soon after the volcano was exhibited in eruption. This was succeeded in 1839 by a view
of " Iceland and its Yolcanoes," including Mount Uecla, &c. ; in 1841 by a pictorial
model of the " City of Eome ; " in 1813 by the "Temples of Elora," in the East Indies;
in 1844, by " London in the Olden Time" (occupying about 300,000 feet of canvas), and
as destroyed by the Great Fire of IGGG ; and in 1845 by a delineation, partly in model, of
the " City of Edinburgh." In 1S4G the Yiew of Ycsuvius, &c., was reproduced, but
with much enlargement and improved effects in respect to the eruption.
The grounds were laid out and plantations made under the direction of Mr. Ilenry
Phillips (author of the "Sylva Elorif era "), and various buildings, both picturesque and
otherwise, were erected in different situations for the animals and birds. The principal of
these was the conservatory (so called), a glazed circular edifice, 100 feet in diameter, in
which the carnivorous animals were kept. During the last few years of their existence
music formed one of the chief attractions at these Gardens. In 1851 opon-aii- concerts were
given in a large covered orchestra on the margin of the lake. These were conducted by
JuUien, and proved very successful. Later on a large music-hall was erected, capable of
accommodating 12,000 persons. This building was used as a temporary hospital during
the rebuilding of St. Thomas's, on its transference from Southwark to Lambeth ; and also
for a short time for religious purposes, under Mr. C. H. Spurgeon. On the first occasion
of holding these services, in October, 185G, the crush was so great that a serious accident
occm-red, whereby seven persons lost theii- lives.
EOTHEEHITHE.
This parish, anciently called Rdherhith, probably derives its appellation from the Saxon
words redhra, a mariner, and lujdh, a haven ; that is, the sailor's harbom-. The learned
antiquary, William Baxter, deduces the name from the British cr-odar, in Y'eltfh >/r-odr,
signifying a boundary, and the Saxon /i//d//, this place being situated at the burder-line
between Kent and Surrey ; but that etymology, besides other objections, involves the
incongruous intermixture of two distinct languages. Eotherhithe, vulgarly styled Rcdriff^
is situated on the southern bank of the Thames, and is bordered on the east by Deptford,
,^2 HISTORY OF SURREY.
on the west by Bermondsey, and on tlie soutli partly by Bermondsey, and in part by
Peckham, in CamberwelL
Eotberhitlie is not mentioned by name in the Doomsday Book, as at tie time of the
survey it was included in the royal manor of Bermondsey. At a subsequent period it
contained two manors. It seems probable that Henry I. gave a part of the land here to
his natural son Eobert, Earl of Gloucester, whose grand- daughter Amicia and her
descendants ultimately succeeded to his honours and estates. This lady married Eichard
de Clare, Earl of Hertford, and her son Gilbert, in 2 Henry III., holding the honour of
Gloucester in right of his mother, was afterwards made Earl of Gloucester. Gilbert de
Clare, his grandson, held the manor of Eotherhithe in 46 Henry III., and Eobert, Bishop
of Bath and Wells, was his tenant.
In 21 Edward III. (1348) William Bohun held half a knight's fee here under the Earl
of Gloucester, though it is uncertain how it came into his possession. Manning says,
'* It was probably one of those manors which Edward III. purchased for the endowment
of the Abbey of St. Mary de Gratiis, on Tower Hill ; and this William Bohun might be a
feoffee, in trust for the conveyance of it." The estate certainly belonged to that abbey,
the superior of which, in 21 Eichard II., with the King's permission, demised it in fee-
farm for ever, at a rent of £20 a year, to the prior and convent of St. Mary Magdalene,
Henry I. having given, as already mentioned, a part of the Crown lands at Eotherhithe
to his son Eobert, Earl of Gloucester, granted the remainder to the Cluniac monks of
Bermondsey. Eobert, Bishop of Bath and Wells, who held lands here of the Earls of
Gloucester in the reign of Edward I., became tenant of the monastic estates also.f
Philip Burnell, the Bishop's nephew and heir, died in 1294, leaving a son Edward, a
minor, who appears to have been the ward of John de Drokenesford, Xeeper of the Great
Seal ; for in an inquisition taken after the death of Gilbert, Earl of Gloucester, who fell in
the battle of Bannockburn in 1314, it is stated that Drokenesford had held under him, as
of the honour of Gloucester, certain lands and tenements in Eutherhuth, of the annual
value of 100s., by the service of half a knight's fee.
* Manning and Bray, "Surrey," vol. i. p. 218: from Patent Roll, 21 Eichard II.
t From an inquisition taken shortly after the decease of the Bishop in 1292, it appears that he held at Eotherhithe,
of the honour of Gloucester, by the service of half a knight's fee, t-svo messuages, valued at 43. ; 52 acres of arable land, at
Is. an acre ; and 32 acres of meadow land, at 3s. an acre ; the annual value amounting together to £1 12s., from which,
deducting a quit-rent of 2s. 2d., he derived an income of £7 9s. lOd. He also held of the Prior of Bermondsey one
messuage, value 2s. ; 4 acres of arable, at 4d. an acre ; 2 at Is. an acre ; 13 of meadow, at 3s. an acre ; and assized rents of
free tenants, ^£1 153. ; altogether, ^3 19s. 4d. : a quit-rent of 14s. Id. being deducted, left a clear income of ^3 53. 3d.
The entire estate of the Bishop here, forming the manor of Eotherhithe, thus yielded £10 15s. Id.
ROTHERHITHE. ,^3
Ed-n-ard Buruell died seized of this estate in 1315, without issue, and his sister Maud
■was his heir ; but Aliva, her brother's widow, hehl Eothcrhithc in dower. Maud Burnell
married, fii-st, John, Lord Level, and after his death John do Ilandlou ; and the estate of
Eotherhithe, with others pertaining to his wife's inheritance, Avas sottknl on his second
son Nicholas, a fine having been levied in 18 Edward II. to authorise such an arrangement.
Nicholas de Handlou assumed the name of his mother's family, and in 24 Edward III.
he was summoned to Parliament by the title of Lord Burnell. On the death of
Aliva, the widow of his maternal uncle, he had livery of Eotherhithe and other estates
which she had held in dower: dying in 1383, he was succeeded by his son Ilugh, Lord
Burnell. This nobleman was one of the favourites and counsellors of Eichard IL, and on
the success of the insurrection of the nobility, headed by the Duke of Gloucester, against
the King and his ministers, in the eleventh year of his reign. Lord Burnell was banished
from the court. At a later period he was among the opponents of his misguided sovereign,
having been one of the commissioners from the Parliament sent to the Tower to receive his
resignation of the crown, after he had been virtually deposed by his cousin and competitor,
Avho succeeded him as Ilcnry IV.
This Lord Bm-nell died in 1420, and his son Edward having deceased before him,
leaving no male issue, the right to the estates of the Burnell family devolved on William,
Lord Level, descended fi-om Maud Burnell by her first husband. While Hugh, Lord
Biu-nell, held the manor of Eotherhithe (viz. in 21 Eichard II. ), the Abbot of Bermondsey,
who held the superiority of this estate, also obtained the usufructuary propertj' of the
other portion of Eotherhithe by lease from the Abbot of St. Mary de Gratiis, as before
stated : thus the entire manor of Eotherhithe, divided by Henry I., became vested in the
monks of Bermondsey.
"William, Lord Level, the feudal tenant of that part of the conventual property wliich
had belonged to the Burnell family, died seized of it in 1454. His son and successor,
John, Lord Level, was an active partisan of the house of Lancaster, and joined with
Lord Scales in an attempt to defend the Tower of London against the Yorkists in 1460 ;
but he afterwards submitted to the new king, Edward IV., and was summoned to Parlia-
ment fi'om 1459 to 1463. Dying in the latter year, he left a son and heir, Francis, a
minor. This youthful peer enjoyed the patronage of the Duke of Gloucester, Avhom he
attended on his expedition to Scotland in 1482 ; and when the Duke ascended the throne
as Eichard III., Lovel was made Lord Chamberlain of the Eoyal Household. He fought
for the King at Bosworth, and after his fall fled to Burgundy, whence he retm-ned to
England with the German troops sent by the Duchess Margaret of York to join in an
,44 HISTORY OF SURREY.
insrirrection against Henry VII. The King attacked the Yorkists at Stoke-on-Trent,
June 16th, 1487, and gained a complete victory oyer them. The fate of Lord Level is
uncertain. Holinshed says that he, the Earl of Lincoln, and other leaders " were slaine
and found dead in the verie places whiche thej- hadde chosen alyve to fight in, — howbeit,"
he adds, " some aflfirme, that the lord Lovell tooke his horsse, and would have fledde over
Trente, but was not able to recover the further side for the highnesse of the banke, and so
was drowned in the river." But long afterwards circumstances transpired which afford
grounds for believing that he escaped to the family mansion at Minster-Lovcl, and was
there treacherously starved to death.*'
Lord Lovel Avas attainted in the first Parliament of Henry YIL, and his estates conse-
quently escheated to the Crown ; but his grandfather, "William, Lord Lovel, having settled
the remainder of this estate on his younger son "William, who married Eleanor, daughter
and heiress of Lord Morley, his son Hemy, Lord Morley, succeeded to it on the attainder
of his cousin. In 1489 he was killed at the siege of Dixmude, and, as he left no issue, the
Eotherhithe estate fell to the Zing, and it was granted by Hemy VIII. , in 1515, to
Gerard Danett, Esq. But, on an inquisition taken at South wark in 1516, it appeared that
the lands thus granted had long been held by the abbot and convent of Bermondsey
of the King and his predecessors, at the specified rent of £4 a year, and that they
were so intermixed with those of then- own former occupation that it was impossible to
ascertain their bounds. Danett, therefore, at then- request (probably for a consideration),
resigned his grant in the July following, when the monks obtained a conveyance of the
lands to themselves, to hold of the Crown, in frank- almoigne, for ever, on condition of
celebrating an obit on the anniversary of the King's death, whenever it should happen, for
the souls of the King, of Queen Katherine, of his father and mother, and of all foithful
people departed. This grant bore the date of 1516.
There is evidence from existing records that the lands and tenements in Eotherhithe
formerly in the tenancy of the Burnells and their representatives did not include all the
land in that parish belonging to the monks of Bermondsey. "William de Blyburgh held
under the prior and convent one messuage and two gardens, with 15 acres and 1 rood of
arable land, within this manor; and in 28 Edward I. he obtained a license, on a writ of
Ad quod Damnum^ to stop a certain road adjoining his manse, for the purpose of enlarging
the said manse, on condition that he should make another road of the same extent, and
hold the land, thus augmented, of the prior and convent. W. de Blyburgh died in
6 Edward II. seized of this estate, leaving Agnes, the wife of Eichard Donleghe, his next
* See account of Ham, in Kingston hundred, vol. ii. p. 277 ; and Banks's " Extinct Peerage," vol. ii. p. 321.
ROTHERHITHE. 145
heir. lu the reign of Edward III., Eobert Fitzwaltcr, Lord of Egrcmond,* held a messuage
in Eotherliithc called the Moated Place, which in 36 Henry YIII. (1544) was granted to
Eobert Lawerd, or Lord, to hold of the King in common socage. The grantee died
4 Edward VI. seized of another messuage called Eawleigh's Place, but afterwards the
Seven Houses, in the road to Deptford, and he left a daughter and heii-ess named Alice,
wife of Henry Polsted.f
Prom an inquisition taken in 2 Edward III. it appears that Bartholomew de Padlcs-
mere died "seized of lands and tenements in Eetherhith." This baron, executed in 1321,
with many other adherents of Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, probably obtained this estate
through his connection with the Clares, Earls of Gloucester, for he married Margaret do
Clare, a descendant of that family.
In 7 Henry IV. it was found on an inquisition that the Prior of Bermondsey was in
possession of 22 acres of land and 8 acres of meadow in Eotherhithe, called Brokcshall,
formerly parcel of the common of the vill of Eotherhithe, without the King's license. J
The monastery of Bermondsey was surrendered to the King in 1538, when all the
property belonging to it became vested in the Crown. The manor of Eotherhithe was
retained until the reign of Charles I., by whom it was granted, at the request of Sir Allen
Apsley, and probably in trust for him, to William White and others. In 1GG8 James
Cecil, Earl of Salisbury, was lord of the manor, and his son James, the fourth Earl of
Salisbm-y of that family, held the estate till 1692, when it appears to have been alienated
to John Bennet, Esq., a relative of the Countess of Salisbury, and therefore he possibly
held it as a trustee. Manorial courts were held in his name until 1706, when John JoUey
and Benjamin Morret were lords of the manor. From 1720 to 1739 it belonged to Thos.
Scawen, Esq., and from 1740 to 1750 the name of Samuel Swiason appears on the court
rolls ; but Manning says that during part of this interval Admiral Sir Charles Wager
was the owner of the property, and Swinson may have been a trustee for that officer,
who died in 1743. He gave this estate to his nephew, Charles Bolton, who married
Martha Goldsworthy, to whom he bequeathed it at his decease. Dying in 1777, she
left the Eotherhithe property to her nephew, Major-General Goldsworthy, one of the
King's Equerries, and Colonel of the 1st Eegiment of Dragoons. He died in 1800, leaving
♦ This was Robert, Baron Fitzwalter, who died in 1328, improperly styled by Lysons Baron of Egremond, because
he married Joane, one of the daughters and coheiresses of John de Multon, the last Baron of Egremond, whose inheritance
was shared between this lady and her two sisters, among whose descendants and representatives the barony of Egremond
is still in abeyance. (See Banks, " Dormant and Extiuct Baronage," voL ii. p. 207 ; and Sir H. Nicolas, " Sj-nopsis of the
Peerage," vol. ii. p. 458.)
t Terrier of Lands in Surrey, No. 4705, Ayscougb's Cat. British Iiluseiim.
X Dugdale's " Monasticon," vol. v. p. 88.
VOL. III. XT
,46 HISTORY OF SURREY.
a sister and heiress, Miss Goldsworthy. From Miss Goldsworthy the manor of Eother-
hithe descended to the late Field-Marshal Sir William Maynard Gomm, G.C.B., at whose
death in 1875 it passed to his widow. The present lady of the manor is Mrs. Carr-Gomm,
who in 1878 inherited the estate from her aunt, Lady Gomm.
A fleet is said to have heen fitted ont at Eotherhithe in the reign of Edward III.,
nndor the orders of the Black Prince and his brother John of Gaunt. Lambarde, in his
"Topographical Dictionary," says that Henry IV. lodged in an "old stone house here,
vrhiles he was cured of a leprosie." Two charters of that prince are dated at this place m
the month of July, 1412, and from these it has been inferred that there was a royal
mansion at Eotherhithe ; but most probably his residence here was but temporary, on the
occasion just mentioned.
The Thames Tunnel, Eotherhithe. — This important work was devised about 1820
by Mr. Brunei, F.E.S. (afterwards Sir Isambart Marc Brunei). Two attempts to construct
an archway under the Thames had previously been made. The first, from Gravesend to
Tilbury, in 1799, was projected by Mr. Ealph Dodd, an engineer of much note; the
other, from Eotherhithe to Limehouse, was commenced by the "Thames Archway
Company," under the provisions of an Act of Parliament obtained in 1801; but both
attempts proved abortive.*
When the plan for making a double roadway under the Thames, and executing it on a
fall scale at once, was submitted to the public by Mr. Brimel in 1823, the boldness of the
enterprise and the novel method by which he proposed to carry on the work excited the
general attention of the scientific world ; and the scheme having been sanctioned by the
approval of the Duke of Wellington, Dr. Wollaston, and many other persons of talent and
influence, a joint-stock company was formed rmder the provisions of an Act of Parliament,
which received the royal assent on the 24th of June, 1824, to carry it into effect. By
that Act the "Thames Tunnel Company" was authorised to raise £200,000 in £50
shares, together with the farther sum of £50,000, should the former be insufficient.
The operations for making this subaqueous as well as subterranean channel of com-
munication between the opposite shores were commenced on the Surrey side at a short
* On the latter occasion the operations were continued nearly five years, under the direction chiefly of Messrs.
Vasey and Trevethick, two experienced Cornish miners. The work was commenced by sinking a shaft, 11 feet in
diameter, about one niUe below Rotherhithe Church, and 315 feet from the river. With much difficulty, arising from the
land water, the shaft was carried to the depth of 42 feet ; and being then reduced to 8 feet in diameter, it was continued
to the depth of 76 feet. A horizontal excavation, or driftway, 5 feet in height, 2 feet 6 inches in breadth at the top, and
3 feet at the bottom, was begun and carried to the extent of 1,040 feet, when the ground at the head of the drift twice
broke in under the pressure of high tides, though at the respective depths of 30 feet and 25 feet from the bottom of the
river ; and the work was subsequently abandoned, no less than fifty-four engineers having then agreed in opinion that it
was impracticable to make a tunnel imder the Thames of any useful size for commercial p\irposes 1
ROTHERHITHE. 147
distance eastward from Eothcrliitlic Churcli, and at about 100 feet from the Avater-
side. On that spot several concentric circles of piles were driven into the ground,
■svithin the innermost of which was fixed a strong wooden cvirb, shod with iron, and 50
feet in diameter. Upon that a substantial cylinder of brickwork, bedded in Eoman
cement, 42 feet in height and 3 feet in thickness, was constructed, and strengthened
in various waj's by iron rods, band hoops, &c., thus forming a vertical shaft of the ^^■eIght,
as computed, of 1,000 tons. Shortly after it was begun, on the 2nd of March, 1825,
a stone with a brass plate appropriately inscribed, coins, &c., was laid in the brickwork
by William Smith, Esq., chairman of the company, with much ceremony, and in the
presence of a numerous assemblage of spectators.
When the cylinder was finished a powerful steam-engine was set upon it, for the
purpose both of raising the earth from within the shaft and of effecting a drainage ; the
whole was then sunk into the ground en masse, in the manner in which wells are usually
sunk. By this means a dangerous quicksand, full of land water, 26 feet in depth, was
successfully passed through, and the shaft was completed to the depth of G5 feet. A
smaller shaft, 25 feet in diameter, was afterwards sunk within the other, as a avcII or
reservoir for the pimips. The horizontal excavation for the tunnel was then opened at the
depth of Co feet, and in order to have a sufficient thickness of ground to pass with security
under the deepest part of the river, the excavation was carried to that point on a declivity
of 2 feet 3 inches per 100 feet. At a full tide the foot of the tunnel is 75 feet below the
surface of the water.
The manner in which the operations Avcre carried on can hardly be intelligibly
explaiaed without exceeding the necessary limits of this narrative. The great means by
which the excavation was finally accomplished was by the employment of a powerful
apparatus designated the " Shield." This consisted of twelve strong frames of cast iron,
each 22 feet in height and 3 feet in breadth, placed " close to each other, like so many
volumes on the shelf of a book-case,"* one division of which is represented in the woodcut
on the following page. Every division, or frame, comprised three distinct stages, or cells, and
consequently there were thirty-six altogether for the operators, namely, the miners, by whom
the ground was cut down and secured in front of the shield, and the bricklayers, by -whom
the structure was simultaneously formed from the back of the cells, as each alternate frame
was pressed forward by strong screws abutting against the solid brickwork. In front
every cell was protected by a close panelling of small boards, technically called pollings,
* See " An Exposition of the Facts and Circumstances relating to the Tunnel,'' as suhmitted by Mr. Brunei to his
late Majesty, at St. James's Palace, on the 24th of May, 1833.
V 2
■ 48
HISTORY OF SURREY.
each of wliich was 3 feet in length and 6 inches wide, and was secured and kept in its
place by two jack-screws.* Eventually, when from the fluid nature of the ground
additional precautions became necessary, the pollings were attached to each other and to
the top of the shield by hooks, and further strengthened by iron spurs resting upon the
floor-plates and going into the ground.f The staves, as they were called, which formed
the upper part of the shield, were, for greater strength, made like inverted troughs of
cast iron; they were 1 foot 6 inches in breadth, and 9 feet in length, independently of
a tailing of Avrought iron to overlay the brickwork.
The shield was placed in its first position at the bottom of the shaft about the 1st of
January, 1826, and the structure of the double archway was
commenced. From that time until the 27th of April, 1827, the
tunnel had been finished to the extent of 540 feet, but the
miners and bricklayers then struck, " without even securing
their work," from apprehensions of danger at the state of the
ground before them. Fresh hands were engaged, and the tunnel
was advanced about 10 feet; but on the 18th of May the river
burst in with iiTCsistible ibree, and completely filled the exca-
vation, the workmen escaping with much difficulty. The
opening thi'ough which the irruption had taken place was
afterwards filled up (as in subsequent instances) with several
thousand small bags of clay (armed with hazel rods about 4 feet
long) and loose gravel, which, becoming consolidated by the
pressure of the tides, again closed the aperture. The water
was then pumped out of the tunnel by a powerful hydraulic
apparatus, and greatly to the satisfaction of every one, the
brickwork was found to be uninjured, and the excavation was recommenced. But
notwithstanding the fertility of invention displayed by the engineer, both as to preventive
and remedial measures, when the work had been completed to the length of GOO feet
SECTION OF THE SHILLD.
* The chief parts of the shield are referred to by the numerals in the woodcut from 1 to 8, viz.:— 1. The
PoUing Boards ia front of the shield. 2. The Jack-scre-ws. 3. The Top Staves, securing the upper part of the excavation
until the substitution of the brickwork: the sides of each divi.sion of the shield were similarly defended. 4. Screws to
raise or depress the top staves. 5. The Legs, being jack-screws fixed by baU-joints to the shoes, upon which the whole
division stands. 6. The Shoes. 7 and 8. The Sockets, where the top and bottom horizontal screws were fixed to force
the division forward as the work advanced.
+ This mode of attaching the polling boards proved so safe, both in its service and results, that at a meeting of the
Institution of Civil Engineers on the 3rd of February, 1843, Sir Isambart Brunei stated that should another tunnel be
constructed, he would make the system of thus attaching the pollings an essential part of the organization of the shield,
being convinced it might, " by this means, be worked through the worst ground with a certainty of safety and success."
ROTHERHITHE. 149
another extensive rupture took place iu the bed of the river, and, in despite of the most
intrepid and steady perseverance of the men to counteract the disaster, the soil and water
again rushed iu and filled the tunnel : on this occasion six of the workmen were di'owned.
This second irruption, though far more impetuous and disastrous than the first, was over-
come by the same means as before, though no less than 4,000 tons of soil were requii-ed
to fill the chasm. When the tunnel was re-entered it was found that the brickwork was
undisturbed and perfectly sound, though its protecting shield was much strained and
fractured. These repeated accidents proved almost fatal to the undertaking, for the
company's funds being nearly exhausted, the work was altogether discontinued, with little
prospect of a revival. At that time only £144,000 had been paid up by the share-
holders, and £140,000 had been expended.
At length, after a lapse of seven years, the project was resumed, and by the aid of
Exchequer bills bearing interest, issued by the Treasury under the sanction of Parliament,
to the amount of £300,000, this noble monument of British science was successfully
completed. The work was recommenced in March, 1830, and a new and stronger shield,
weighing about 180 tons, having been provided, all subsequent difficulties were overcome,
though several formidable irruptions took place, both of water and ground ; and the
frequent bursts of carburetted and sulphuretted hydrogen gas into the tunnel, from 1837
to 1839, had occasionally such an efi'ect upon the men that some of them fell senseless at
their posts. Such was the fluid state of the soil, also, that on many occasions they were
obliged to block up the top boxes with timber until auxiliary means were devised to enable
the miners to proceed with security. Early in 1841 the tunnel was sufiiciently advanced
to insure its completion, and on the 24th of March her Majesty Queen Victoria conferred
the honour of knighthood on Mr. Brunei, to reward in some degree the unceasing anxiety
and toil which he had so long imdergone. But a still higher satisfaction was afforded him
in the following August, when he entered the tunnel by a small driftway constructed from
the shaft sunk on the Wapping side of the river. About nine years of actual employment
were expended on the work, and its cost, inclusive of the purchase of ground on each
bank of the Thames, amounting to £30,000, and other incidental charges, was about
£446,000. It was first opened for foot-passengers on the 25th of March, 1843.*
The tunnel consists of an oblong mass of brickwork laid in Roman cement 38 feet in
* The engineer's original estimate for the completion of the tunnel was £166,000. The steam-engine and hyilraulic
apparatus for draining the works were estimated at £4,000 ; the apparatus (or shield) for carrying on the erection, £3,300 ;
and the iron tools and all necessary implements, £6,000. The new shield cost ahout £7,000. It was exliibited on the
Eotherhithe side, at a small chaise, for about two years after its work was done, but was ultimately broken up and con-
signed to the melting furnace.
,50 HISTORY OF SURREY.
■width, and 22 feet 6 inches in height, presenting a sectional area of 850 feet, withro -which
are two parallel arched passages of the horseshoe form, each about 16 feet high, and
13 feet 9 inches wide. These archways are separated by a middle wall, increasing in
thickness downward from 3 feet C inches to 4 feet, at which point an inverted arch,
3 feet thick, contributes both to support the external walls and strengthen the central one.
There are also numerous arched bands, or transverse arches, extending across each
passage at regular distances. All the foundations are laid on thick and strong beech
planks, and the great weight of the shield in passing over the ground served so materially
to compress it, that no instance occurred of sinking in the foundation or settlement of any
kind. In each passage were originally a carriage road and a footway, but the descending
approaches for carriages were never made. The descent for foot-passengers on each side of
the river was formerly by several flights of steps, constructed spiral- wise within a circular
shaft, surmounted by a polygonal cupola pierced both with sky and lantern lights. The
roadways, which originally communicated with each other by sixty-three small arches,
were lighted by gas. The toll for passengers was one penny, but the success of the Thames
Tunnel as a commercial undertaking, in its original state, appears never to have been
realised. In 1871 it was closed for foot-passengers, and it is now used as a railway, the
trains of the East London Eailway Company passing through it between Liverpool Street
and New Cross and other South London stations.
The Commercial Docks, Eotherhithe. — There is a tradition, supported by the authority
of Stow, that at the spot now occupied by the oldest portion of these docks, was the com-
mencement of the trench, or canal, made by Canute from this point to Battersea, to enable
him to avoid the bridge when he brought up his fleet to besiege London. The chronicler
further states that the course of the river was diverted through the same passage when
the first stone bridge across the Thames was built in the reign of King John.
The present Commercial Docks, however, originated in the "Howland Great Wet
Dock," which existed in 16C0, and was so called from a family settled at Streatham in
the latter part of Queen Elizabeth's reign. Sir Giles Howland having purchased the manor
of Tooting-Bec, in that parish, in 1599. The Howland property was conveyed in marriage
to the Eussells by the union of "Wriothesley, Marquis of Tavistock, with Elizabeth,
daughter and heii'ess of John Howland, Esq., of Streatham, in 1695. The nuptial ceremony
was solemnised at Streatham by Gilbert Burnet, Bishop of Salisbury, and immediately after-
wards the youthful bridegroom (then only in his fifteenth year) was created Baron Howland
of Streatham, in compliment to the large estates to which Miss Howland was entitled.*
* Wiffin's " Historical Memoirs of the House of Bedford," vol. ii. p. 301.
ROTHERHITHE. i s i
The Howlaud Dock (wliicli continued in the possession of the Eussells until 1763)
was not quite 10 acres in extent in Queen Anne's time, yet it was then stated to be larger
than the famous basin of Dunkirk, or of "any pent water in the world, and capable of
affording secure accommodation for one hundred and twenty sail of the largest merchant-
men." At a subsequent period, when the Greenland whale fishery flourished, the dock
was engaged for the reception of vessels employed in that trade ; and various houses, &c.,
with boilers, tanks, and other apparatus for extracting oil from blubber, were erected.
In 1800 Mr. Ealph Dodd projected the construction of the Ship Canal from Eother-
hithe to Vauxhall, of which the Greenland Dock (as then called) was to be the commence-
ment; but this scheme proved abortive. In 1807, the whaling trade having declined,
whilst the importation of timber and other merchandise from the north of Europe had
greatly increased, the dock changed owner.s, and under the appellation of the Baltic Dock
was appropriated for ships laden with timber, deals, tar, corn, &c., after the premises had
undergone great alterations and enlargement by the purchase of various properties, espe-
cially of the ship-building yard, docks, &c., of Mr. William Eitchie, at the sum of
£35,000. It was soon afterwards styled the Commercial Dock, and having been closed
for improvements, was reopened under its new name in 1809. In the following year
the " Commercial Dock Company " was established by an Act of Parliament (50 Geo. III.
cap. 207), and consolidated by two other Acts obtained in 1811 and 1817.
Under the dii'cction of the Board new docks have been excavated, yards, granaries,
wharfs, &c., repeatedly enlarged and improved, until the property has been augmented
to a very considerable extent from what it was originally. There were formerly six
docks, or basins ; but at the present time they number no less than thirteen. The two
inner docks were opened in 1815; and in 1876 a large new basin, called the Canada
Dock, was excavated and opened. This dock has a water area of 16i acres, and a quay
space upwards of 21 acres in extent.
These docks, now the property of the Surrey Commercial Dock Company, are situated
about three miles below London Bridge : the entrance is in Limehouse Ecach, where the
river takes a large sweep, within which the docks have been formed. They arc supplied
by the Thames, the level of the ground being much below high- water mark. At spring
tides the average depth of water at the sill of the dock gates is 18 feet 7 inches, but
occasionally the tide rises to 22 feet. In 1814, for the purpose of obtaining a more ready
access from the metropolis to this neighbourhood, a floating pier was established.
The old East Cotjxtry Dock, together with the Grand Surrey Canal, now forms
part of the elaborate system belonging to the Surrey Commercial Dock Company.
,52 HISTORY OF SURREY.
In 1850 the Commercial Dock Company purchased the East Country Dock and
premises for the sum of £40,000 ; and in 1851 an Act was passed confirming the purchase,
and empowering the company to construct a new entrance to the Thames, now known
as the South Lock, and enlarge the East Country Dock. These works were carried out
at an expense of £190,000, in addition to the purchase money. The new dock and
premises were opened in 1855. In 1862 a new entrance to the Thames, near Lavender
Dock, was completed and opened.
The Grand Surrey Canal was commenced in 1802, and the basin opened for business
in 1807 : the canal itself, however, was not completed for many years. In 1855 the
company became incorporated under the name of the " Grand Surrey Docks and Canal
Company," and in 1864 was amalgamated with the Commercial Dock Company.
Great alterations and improvements have since been made both in the docks and the
canal. The dock property altogether now comprises ten docks and seven timber ponds,
with an aggregate water area of 176 acres, and land or wharfage area of 193 acres,
making in all 369 acres of dock property ; and a canal extending from the docks at
Eotherhithe to Camberwell and Peckham, with an area of 66 acres. The docks have
four entrances from the Thames at different points, extending over a length of If miles
of the river. The quays in the docks available for shipping are 5 miles long. The
company's granaries have a storage capacity of 150,000 quarters, whilst 14 acres of
shed accommodation are provided for the storage of hard woods and prepared flooring
boards requiring to be placed under cover.
The staff of management of the Surrey Commercial Dock Company consists of a
Chairman, two Deputy Chairmen, fifteen ordinary Directors, two Auditors, a Secretary,
and a Superintendent. The total capital of the company in January, 1877, amounted to
£1,506,813 16s. 6d.
Advowson, &c. — The living of Eotherhithe is a rectory in the deanery of Southwark
and diocese of Eochester, to which it was transferred in 1877 from the diocese of
"Winchester. The advowson formerly belonged to the convent of Bermondsey. In
2 Elizabeth it was held by Ealph Bosseville, after which it repeatedly changed owners,
and in 1721 was purchased by James, Duke of Chandos, who in 1730 resold the
advowson to Clare College, Cambridge, its present patrons. In the Yalor of 20 Edward I.
it is rated at 10 marks per annum, but was subject to a payment of 20s. yearly to the
convent of Bermondsey. In the King's books its annual value is stated at £18, paying
7s. 7^d. for procurations, and 2s. Id. for synodals. About 300 acres, once chiefly
meadow land and market gardens, are tithable. The Eegisters, commenced in 1556, are
ROTIIERinTIIE. 133
apparoutly verv perfect. There are many entries among the burials of persons whose
ages are from ninety to ninety -nine years; also of the following of still greater age : —
Margaret Sinclaire, from Bermundscy, aged 101, buriotl January 19, 1V94.
Elizabeth Richardson, widow, Pasliflelds-rent, aged 120, buried February 14, ISOO.
Rectors * of Eotherhithe in and since 1800 : —
I,— Robert 3Ii/cMcto)i, D.D. Inducted in 1792.
2. — James Spear. Piesigued in 1817.
2,.— John Short Iletvett, M.A. Instituted in 1817.
4.— Edward BIlcIc, M.A. Instituted in 1835.
5. — Edward JosseI>/n Bed; M.A. Instituted in 18G7.
The old Church of St. Ma»y at Eotherhithe, of the origin of which little is known,
having become both ruinous and too small for the increased population, the inhabitants
determined to rebuild it on a larger scale. For that purpose £920 19s. Sd. was raised by
a brief, and £1,829 14s. Gd. by private contributions. With these sums a new church was
begun in 1714, and opened for divine service in 1715: the cost amounted to £3,792 14s. Id.
It was fm-ther enlarged, and the steeple built, under two Acts of rarliament, passed respec-
tively in 1717 and 1738, and the whole fabric completed. It is constructed of brick, with
stone rustic quoins, window cases, and other di-essings. On each side are two rows of large
segmental-arched windows and a spacious entrance ; and at the west end is a square tower
of two stages, finished with a balustrade, and containing a clock and six bells. This is
surmounted by a cylindrical lantern formed by a peristyle of the Corinthian order, crowned
by ui-ns, from the dome of which issues a small octagonal spire, terminated by a ball and
cross : these parts are of stone.
The interior of the church consists of nave and aisles, and an altar recess, divided from
the nave by aiitfe and a segmental arch. The altar screen, which is of oak, is of the
Corinthian order, and iucludes the usual tables of the Lord's Prayer, &c., in four compart-
ments. In the east window is a picture of St. Mary the Yirgin in stained glass, executed
by Collins after the ]\[adonna delle Stelle of Guido in the Blenheim Collection. The roof
* Among the more ancient rectors of this p^irish was tlie Tiev. Tlios. Gataker, B.D., who liold tlic living from 1011
Tintil his decease in 1654. He was distinguished both as a divine and critic ; but becoming obnoxious to Government
during the supremacy of Laud, he was for some time imprisoned in the Fleet. He afterwards sat in the Assembly of
Divines at Westminster, and sometimes acted as their cliairman. His treatise on tlie Purity of the Language of the New
Testament, in Latin, published in 1646, gives a favourable idea of his critical talents. He was buried at Rotherhithe.
The Rev. Charles Gataker, JI.A., son of the preceding, was bom at Rotherhitlie about 1G14, and attained distinction
as a controversial writer, chiefly in defence of Calvinism. He died in 1680, and was interred in the clianccl at Hoggeston,
in Buckinghamshire, of which parish he had been long minister.
VOL. III. X
154 HISTORY OF SURREY.
of tliG nave, -waggon-sliaped and ornamented witli a floM^ered panelling, is supported on eacli
side by two massive columns rising from tlie floor : the roofing of tlie aisles is flat. In
1876 the interior was entirely rearranged under a faculty from the Bishop of Winchester.
The old high pews were replaced with convenient open seats, the floor was repaved, large
portions of the galleries were removed, choir seats provided, and the sanctuary paved with
marble. These improvements were carried out iindcr the direction of W. Butterfield, Esq.,
architect, at a cost of between £1,800 and a61,900. The sittings afford accommodation
for about 750 persons. The chief sepulchral memorial is a white marble tablet com-
memorative of the Soper family, of whom William Soper, Esq., who died in 1839, was
many years treasurer of this parish. Several tablets from the earlier church are still
preserved.
In the churchyard is the tomb of Prince Lee Boo, a native of the Pelew Islands, in
the Indian Ocean, who died at Eotherhithe in 1784. The following sepulchral inscription
affords a brief account of the character and fate of this interesting young foreigner, con-
cerning whom more full information may be found in Mr. Keate's "Narrative of Captain
Wilson's Yoyage : " — •
To tlie Memory of Pkince Lee Boo, a Native of the Pelew or Palos Islands ; and Son to Abba ThuUe,
Kupack or King of the Island Coo-roo-raa, who departed this life on the 27th of December, 1784, aged 20 years,
tMs Stone is inscribed by the Hon. United East India Company, as a Testimony of Esteem for the humane and
kind Treatment afforded by his Father to the Crew of their Ship the Antelope, Capt. Wilson, which was wrecked
off that Island in the Night of the 9th of August, 1783.
Stop Eeader, stop ! Let Nature claim a tear —
"A Prince of mine, Lee Boo, lies buried here."
Admiral Sir John Leake. — This brave officer was born at Eotherhithe in June, 1G56.
He was the son of Capt. Leake, master gunner of England ; and having entered the navy
in early years, he served as a midshipman in the war with the Dutch in 1673. In the
battle of Bantry Bay in 1689 he commanded a fire-ship, and for his gallant conduct on
that occasion he was made Captain of the Dartmouth frigate, in which he effected the
release of Londonderry, then closely besieged by the Ercnch allies of James II. He was
subsequently in the battle off Cape La Hogue, at the taking of Gibraltar by Admiral Eooke,
and in several other actions where success attended the British flag. In 1703 he was
raade Vice-Admiral of the Blue, and was afterwards knighted. In the war of the
Succession against the French and Spaniards his services were numerous and important,
especially in the reduction of Barcelona in 1706, and capture of Minorca in 1708.
Two years later he vfas appointed Commander-in-chief of the fleet and a Lord of
the Admiralty; but after the accession of George I. in 171-4 he was deprived of
ROTHERHITHE. 155
liis offices, and tlicucofortli passed liis time in seclusion until his decease at Green-
•wich in 1720. He -was buried at Stepney, AvLerc lie had erected a monument for his
deceased wife.*
The other churches of Eotherhithe have all been erected -within the last half-century,
partly by local subscriptions, and partly by grants from societies.
Trinity Chuech is situated near the old East Country Dock, at the extremity of the
parish, on a plot of ground given for the purpose by the Commercial Dock Company.
It was built from the designs of Mr. Kcmpsall at a cost of £3,400, and was consecrated
by the Bishop of "Winchester in 1838. This is a spacious brick edifice in the early pointed
style, with a square embattled tower at the west end. It contains about 1,000 sittings,
of which 500 are free.
All Saints' Chukch is also a brick building in the early pointed style, designed by the
same architect as that of Trinity, and erected at a nearly similar cost. It stands in the
Deptford Eoad, opposite Surrey Place, and was consecrated by the Eishop of Winchester
in 1840. At the west end is a low square tower, including the principal entrance, siu--
raounted by an octagonal spire. Since 1873 this church has been thoroughly restored at
an expense of above £1,000. A new chancel has been erected, handsome coloured-glass
windows inserted, and the fabric reseated, &c. The churchyard and glebe of All Saints'
were given by the late Field-Marshal Sir William Gomm.f
Christ Church, which stands in Union Eoad, near the end of Paradise Eow, bordering
on the parish of Bermondsey, is a substantial brick building, designed by Lewis VuUiamy,
Esq., architect. The cost of its erection was defrayed by the trustees of Miss Ilyndman's
* 111 Manning and Bray's " Surrey," vol. i. p. 22S, it is stated that " Hanover Street [in Eotlierliitlio], formerly called
Wintershull Street, is stUl remembered as the birth-place of Admiral Benbow," another of our naval heroes, of whom an
interesting memoir is given ia the " Biographia Britannica," from the communications of Paul Calton, Esq., a son-in-law
of the Admiral. But the place of Benbow's nativity was Shrewsbury, and not Eotherhithe ; and a view of the house at
Coton Hill in which he was born (about 1650) may be seen in the Gentleman's Magadne for December, 1809. Tradition
states that, on visiting Shrewsbury after many years' hard service, he went into the room where he first drew breath, and
on his knees returned thanks to the Great Disposer of events for his protection and support. His portrait, presented by
his sister, is preserved in the Town-hall at Slu'ewsbury.
+ In the notice of the consecration of this church in the Gentleman's Magazine for September, 1840 Q). 307), is the
subjoined passage: — "The comprehensive plan of the Rev. E. Blick, the rector of Eotherhithe, one of the most indefati-
gable and public-spirited ministers of the Church of England, has now been completed. He was inducted into the living
not quite five years ago, and found but one church and two schools for the spiritual instruction of his parishioners and
the education of the poor. He proposed that three new churches and five new schools should be erected ; that each of the
new churches should have a district of three thousand persons assigned to it, leaving four thousand to the mother church.
The whole expense was estimated at ^£2.5,000, of which about £23,000 has been collected. Of this sum, i:21,000 was
obtained by voluntary subscriptions. The five schools have been long in full operation, as well as the old parochial
schools. One of the new churches was consecrated eighteen months since, the second about twelve months ago, and now
the third. Thus upwards of three thousand additional sittings have been provided, of wliiili oiic-lialf are free and
unappropriated, and a resident minister appointed to each."
X 2
I5& HISTORY OF SURREY.
bounty, avIio possess the patronage. The ground was given by the late Field-Marshal Sir
Wm. Gomm, G.C.B. (a most liberal benefactor to the parish of Eotherhithe), and the first
stone was laid by him in 1838. In the ensuing year the church was finished and conse-
crated. This edifice is designed in the early English style of architecture, with buttresses
at the sides and angles, and a square tower at the west end, forming the principal entrance.
The interior is extremely plain ; and the communion-table is placed in a shallow recess at
the east end, with the usual inscriptions. On either side are four large windows of three
divisions each. There are three spacious galleries, supported by small columns and braces
of cast iron. The roof is sustained by open timber-work in several divisions. Against
the south wall is a sepulchral tablet of white marble, erected by Sir "Wm, Gomm " in
grateful remembrance of Thos. Mackley, his confidential and much-valued servant and
friend, for forty-one years," who died in 1840. Sir William and Lady Gomm are both
buried in a vault in this church.
St. Paul's Chapel-of-Ease, in Globe Street, was erected in 1850, and contains accom-
modation for 320. The communion-table, altar-rail, and chairs in this church are made of
the wood of tlie fomous Fighting Temerairc, which was broken up at the ship-breaker's
yard of the late Mr. Beatson, close by.
St. Barnabas Church, in Plough Eoad, was consecrated in 1872. This church (with
the " Gomm Schools " in the same road) was largely indebted to the munificent aid of the
late Sir "William Gomm for its erection. Though small in area, it is lofty and dignified.
The architect was Mr. W. Butterfield : it provides accommodation for 517 (all free), and
the cost was £3,900. A Boys' National School in connection with Christ Church was
built and opened in 1870, at a cost of £1.200. The ancient Free School, in Church
Street, was founded by Peter Hill and Eobert Bell in 1613 (10 James I.). It has since
been amalgamated with the Charity School, founded in 1703, and the Amicable Society
School, founded in 1739. A new schoolroom was erected in 1875, and the school is
known as the Amicable School. Many other Church schools are in the parish, and recently
the School Board for London has erected here large schools. Several chapels for difi'erent
sects of Dissenters have been erected in this parish.
On the south side of Union Eoad and Lower Eoad is Southwark Park. It comprises
some 70 acres of ground, formerly market gardens, which were purchased by the Metro-
politan Board of Works, and laid out with gravel walks, flower beds, and a cricket
ground. The " ornamental " portions are well planted with shrubs aud trees, ]S"ear the
gates and lodge-house, on the west side of the park, are two mounds formed by the earth
excavated from the bed of the river during the construction of the Thames Tunnel,
STREATH.Uf. iS7
STltEATHAM.
It is probable tliat tbis parish obtained its name from lying on the Boman road called
Stane Street, Streat-bam signifying the " borne," or dwelling, on the " street," or road.
Tbougb no observable traces of the road are now visible, there is reason to believe that it
passed by Old Croydon, on the west side of Broad Green, and by Thornbill llatch and the
manor-honse, whence it extended to Newington, and there joined the AYatling Street from
the coast of Kent. In the Doomsday Book the name of this place is written Estrcham,
but in subseqnent records Stretham, and more recently Streatham. It borders northward
on Wandsworth, Battcrsea, and Clapham, to the east on Lambeth, to the south on
Croydon and Mitcham, and to the west on Tooting and "Wandsworth. The soil consists
partly of clay and partly of gravel, chiefly the latter. A saline mineral spring was
discovered in a field in this parish in IGCO, and Lysons says that it was much used
as a cathartic medicine towards the close of the last century.*
No less than four manors called Estrcham (Streatham) are noticed in the Doomsday
survey, besides the manors of Totinges (Tooting-Bec) and Belgcham (Balham), both
which are in this parish ; but the Estrehams in the hundreds of Walton and Kingston
were apparently not connected with this manor. The details are as follows : —
" In Brisistan Iluudi-ed, Ansgot holds Estrehani of the Bishop of Baieux. In the
time of King Edward it was held by Edwin, who could remove where he pleased. It was
then assessed at 1 hide, as at present. There is 1 carucate of arable land ; and there arc
two villains. It is, and was, valued at 25s."
" In Walton Hundred, the Earl of Mortaign held Estrcham. In the time of King
Edward, it was assessed at 5 hides; now, at nothing. Harold then held li hides; and
the Canons of Waltham, 1^ hides. Three socmen held 2 hides, and they could transfer
the land as they pleased. The arable land comprises 2 carucates. There are three villains,
and three bordars, with 21 carucates. In the time of King Edward, it was valued at 30s. ;
and afterwards, at los. ; now, at 43s."
" In Kingston Himdi-ed, Haimo the Sheriff holds Estrcham of the Abbot of Chcrtsej'.
Ulward held it in the time of King Edward ; and could remove where he pleased. Then
it was assessed at 1 hide. There is 1 carucate of arable land : and there arc two bordars.
It is, and was, valued at 20s."
* The original medicinal spring was on the south side, and near the top of the common belonging to the Vauxhall
manor, in Lower Streatham, and the house, built for the accommodation of visitors, was called Well House. The adjoining
house was known as Well-field House. The present well is on the east side of the \'illage of Streatham, on part of tlie
common of the manor of Leigham, called Lime Common.
t58
HISTORY OF SURREY.
" In Brixistau Hundred, the Abbot of St. Mary de Bee liolds, by gift of Eieliard de
Tonbridge, Totinges, wbicb. Estarcliar held of Zing Edward. It was then assessed at
11 hides : now, at 1 hide. The arable land amounts to 4 carucates. Two carucates are
in demesne : and there are five villains, and four bordars, with 3 carucates. There
are 10 acres of meadow. It was valued, in the time of King Edward, at 100s. ; and the
same at present ; but when received, at 20s."
" The Abbot also holds of Eichard, Estreham, Avhieli Erding held of King Edward. It
was then assessed at 5 hides : now, at 1 hide. There are 3 carucates of arable land, and
1 carucate is in demesne ; and there are four villains, and 5 bordars, with 2 carucates.
There is a chapel, which yields 8s. There are 4 acres of meadow ; a wood fui'nishing ten
hogs ; and for herbage, one hog out of ten. In the time of King Edward, it was valued
at 50s. ; and afterwards, and at present, at 60s.
" In Brixistan Hundred, Goisfrid Orlateile holds Belgeham, without any grant from
the King, and without warrant. Anschil held it of Earl Harold. It was then assessed at
5 hides ; now, at nothing. The arable land amounts to 2 carucates. One is in demesne ;
and there are one villain, and one bordar, with half a carucate. Tliere is one bondman ;
and 8 acres of meadow. In the time of King Edward, it was valued at £6 ; afterwards,
at 20s. ; and now, at. 40s."
The Manor of Tooting-Bec, or Tooting-Beck. — The manors of Totinges and Estreham,
mentioned as having been held by the Abbot of Bee, in Normandy, appear to have been
afterwards consolidated, forming the present manor of Tooting-Beck. Though the two
estates were not originally held on the same terms, yet the monastic brethren obtained
permanent possession of botlr, while the descendants of Eichard de Tonbridge retained the
superiority at least until the reign of Edward III. Erom the Escheats of S Edward II.
it appears that the Prior of Okebourn, Wilts, an alien cell belonging to the Abbey of Bee,
held the manors of Tooting-Beck and Streatham, by the service of one knight's fee, from
Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester, who fell at Bannockburu. On the suppression of
alien priories, when Henry V. declared war against France, this mauor became vested in
the Crown.
The King granted Tooting-Beck to his brother, John Plantagcuet, Duke of Bedford,
who held it until his death in 1435 ; and, as he had no children, this estate descended to his
nephew, Henry YL, who granted it to John Ardern for ten years at an annual rent of
£19. In 1441 the King founded Eton College, and he assigned this manor towards
the endowment of that institution; but after his dethronement in 1460, his successor,
Edward IV., resumed several of the grants to that college, and he assigned to Lawrence,
STREATHAM. ,55
Bisliop of Durham, for his life, the priory or manor of Totyngbeke, parcel of the priory
of Okebourn, with the advoAVSon of Streatham.* This estate reverted, probably in
exchange for other lands, to the King, who settled it on John Tiptoft, Earl of Worcester,
Master, and Sir John Scott and others. Wardens of St. Mary's guild in the Church of
Allhallows Barking, near the Tower, for the support of priests to pray for the soul of
Edward IV. and others, and for the reparation of St. Mary's Chapel in that church.
Guilds and chantries having been snpin-essed in the reign of Edward VI., this manor
and the advowson, in 1553, were bought by John Dudley, Earl of Warwick, at twenty-
two years' purchase. The estate afterwards belonged to the fiimily of Pakenham, and
in 1599 was sold by Henry Pakenham, Esq., to Sir Giles Ilowland, Ivnt. His
descendant, John Howland, Esq., died seized of the manor and advowson in 1G8G, leaving
an only daughter and heii-ess, Elizabeth, who in 1695 was mamcd to Wriothesley,
Marquis of Tavistock, afterwards Duke of Bedford. Erom him this property descended
to Francis, fifth Duke of Bedford, who about 1790 conveyed it to his brother, the
unfortunate Lord William Eussell (who was murdered by his valet), when he first
became a candidate to represent this county. All the remaining part of the Bedford
property in Streatham, except the advowson of the church, has been since sold. The
manor of Tootiug-Beck, with its rights and privileges, was sold by John, sixth Duke
of Bedford, in 1816, to Messrs. Eichardson Borradaile and Maximilian Eichard Kymcr.
The manor-house, which stood at the corner of Streatham Common, on the C'roydon
road, is sujiposed to have been built by Sir Giles Howland, whose arms (viz. arcj. two
bars, sah. in chief three lions rampant, of the second), and those of his wife Elizabeth,
daughter of Sir John Eivcrs [az. on a fess cngr. arrj. thereon a fess charged with tlu-ee
roses, betw. as many swans 'ppr. naiant), were upon the gatehouse turrcts.f After being
some time occupied by Lord William Eussell the estate was sold to Lord Deerhurst
(afterwards Earl of Coventry), who pulled down the old mansion and fitted up a villa
for his own residence out of the greenhouse and some of the offices. Having passed
through one or two intermediate hands, this estate, called Coventry Park, now belongs
to the Metropolitan Board of Works, and is being rapidly covered with houses.
The Mange of Leigham's Couet. — This manor ai>pears to have been granted by Ela,
•wife of Jordan de Sackvillc, to the prior and convent of Bermondsey about 1152,
and in 30 Edward I. a writ was issued to inquii'e whether a lease of 2 carucates of land
* Ej-mer's " Fcedera," vol. v. p. 109.
t It has been tradition.iUy eaid that the okl manor-house had been a pahace of Queen Elizabeth, but there are no valid
grounds for that report.
,6o HISTORY OF SURREY.
here to Thomas Eomeyn, and Julian his wife, would interfere with the rights of the
Crown, and the return was that such a lease would not be to the disadvantage of the
King, because the monks held the land in frank-almoigne, and that the value was 5
marks a j'car. After the suppression of the monastery Henry VIII. granted this manor
to Henry Howes, clerk, who seems to have alienated Leigham's Wood, in Strcatham,
which in the early part of the reign of Elizabeth came into the possession of John
Bowyer. In 15G0 (2 Elizabeth) "William Howes, Yicar of AUhallows Barking, conveyed
this manor to John Southcott, Esq., afterwards a Justice of the Common Pleas, whose
son and heir, John Southcott, Esq., of Bulmer, Essex, alienated it to Sir Matthew Carew,
Knt., LL.H., a Master in Chancery, and in 1610 it Avas transferred in the same manner
to John Howland, Esq., of Streatham, Avho died seized of it in 1621, and from whose
family it was conveyed, by the marriage of an heiress, to that of Eoberts. In 1752,
George, Huke of St. Albans, married Jane, sole heiress of Sir Walter Eoberts, and thus
became owner of this estate. On the decease of the Duchess without issue in 1778,
the Huke, with the concurrence of his grand-nephew and heir apparent, George Beau-
clerk, Esq., made a settlement of this property on themselves for their joint lives, with
remainder to the latter in fee. In 1785 they sold Brockwell Green Earm, in Streatham,
to Edward, Lord Tliurlow, then Lord Chancellor, and in 1789 the manor was bought by
the same nobleman.*
Lord Thurlow erected a spacious mansion at Knight's Hill, a detached part of the
parish within the manor of Lambeth, and bounded by Lambeth and Camberwell. He
died in 1806, having devised a part of his estates to trustees for sale. Attempts were
made to dispose of the Leigham estate by auction, and afterwards by private contract ;
but no offers having been made acceptable to the trustees, an Act of Parliament was
obtained in 1809 to enable them to sell portions of the land for building ; to dispose
also of the manorial right in the copyhold tenements, &c. ; and to make other arrangements
with a view to render the property more compact, and increase its relative value. Since
that time the mansion-house has been pulled down. The manor of Leigham Court was
purchased from Lord Thurlow's devisees, in 1836, by Beriah Drew, Esq., of Streatham,
together with a large part of the land, and that gentleman in 1839 made a new road,
called Leigham Court Eoad, through this estate.
*■ The estate then consisted of tlie manor of Leigham, with six copj'hold tenements, containing together about 2G
acres of land, held hy quit-rents and heriots on death ; 594 acres, 1 rood, and 11 perches of freehold laud in Streatham ;
123 acres, 1 rood, and 24 perches of freehold land in Lambeth ; and 355 acres, 2 roods, and 34 perches of copyhold land
held of the manor of Lambeth. Under the Lambeth Enclosure Act of 1822, 48 acres, 3 roods, and 39 perches of land -n-ere
added to the estate.
STREATHAM. i6i
Adyoavsox, &c. — This benefice is a rectory in the diocese of Eocliester, rural deanery
of Streatliam, and arclidcaconry of SoutliTvark, In tlic Yalor of Edward I. it was rated
at 6 marks and 40d. (£-± 3s. 4d.), paying a pension of 20s. to the Trior of Okcbonrn.
In the King's books it is valued at £18 ISs. 9d. yearly, paying 7s. 7Jd. for synodals,
i'.ud 2s. T^d. for procurations. The Duke of Bedford holds the advowson. The
Registers commence with 1538, and have been generally well kept. Under the date
of April 19th, 1545, the burial is entered of " Eichard Adams, the Ilermit;" and there
is still a place in this parish called Hermitage Bridge, crossing a small stream. The
marriage of Wriothesley, Marquis of Tavistock, to Elizabeth, heiress of the Howlaud
family, in the chapel at Streatham [Manor] House, " in the presence of the grandfathers
and grandmothers, and other nobility," on May 2ord, 1095, is also registered. Another
entry records the bii'th on September 30th, 1710, and baptism on the 20th of the
following month, of their third son John, who became fourth Duke of Bedford, and was
celebrated for his abilities as a statesman. He was sent as Ambassador Plenipotentiary
to the court of France in 17G2, where he negotiated the treaty of peace which was ratified
in the ensuing year.*
Rectors of Streatham in and since 1800 : —
\.— Richard BullocJc, D.D. Instituted in 1784.
2.— Herbert Bill, M.A. Instituted in 1810.
o.—John Wing, M.A. Instituted in 1829.
4.—Zord Wriothesley Russell, M.A. Instituted in 1830.
5. — Henry Blunt, M.A. Instituted in 1835.
C.~John Richard Nicholl, M.A. Instituted in 1843.t
St. Leoxaed's Church stands on elevated ground near the middle of the village. It
possibly occnpies the site of the ancient chapel noticed in the Doomsday Book, and is
supposed to have been rebuilt in the fourteenth century: it "was again rebuilt in 1831,
with the exception of its tower and shingled spire. The latter was consumed by fire
in 1841, occasioned by its being struck by lightning. Shortly after the tower was
repaired and heightened, and crowned by an octagonal spire of brick, stuccoed. The
whole building is in the pointed style, and has a light and elegant appearance, both
* The " Correspondence " of this nobleman between 1742 and 1770, with IntroJuction by Lord John Kussell, is
published in three vols. 8vo.
+ Dr. Benjamin Hoadlv, subsequently promoteil to the fees of Bangor, Salisbury, and Winchester, was instituted to
this rectory in 1710-11 by Mrs. Elizabeth Howland, from her admiration of his political principles, though she was then
unacqnaintcd -ndth him. He afterwards dedicated a volume of Sermons to Ids patroness.
VOL. III. Y
,62 HISTORY OF SURREY.
from tlie character of its architecture and its commandiag situation. The interior consists
of nave, north and south aisles, and a large chancel added in 1864. The pulpit, of oak
finely carved, belonged to the former church.
Among the sepulchral memorials here which were removed from the old church is
a mutilated figure of a knight in mail and plaited armour under a pointed-arched
canopy : this is supposed to have been wrought in the fourteenth century, but for whom
intended is unknown. Near the east end are two marble tablets with inscriptions in
elegant Latin, written by Dr. Johnson, recording the memory and vii'tues of Hester
Maria Sahisbury, daughter of Sir Thomas Cotton, Bart., of Combermcre, and mother
of Mrs. Thrale (afterwards Mrs. Piozzi) and Henry Thrale, Esq., of Streatham Park.
Mrs. Salusbury died in 1773, and Mr. Thrale in 1781. Also a monument of white
marble, by Flaxman, commemorative of Mrs. H. M. Hoare, thu'd daughter of Mr.
Thrale, who died in 1824. It represents an expu-ing female attended by an angel,
and several mourning figiu-es, beautifully executed. In the churchyard is a large
square mass of masom-y, with a cross of grey marble laid upon the top, covering the
burial vault of Alex. Edw. Murray, sixth Earl of Dunmore, who died in 1845. Many
Eoman coins have been dug up in the churchyard.
Christ Church was built from the designs of J. "W. Wild, architect, and consecrated
by the Bishop of Winchester in 1841. The expense of its erection, about £8,000, was
chiefly defrayed by subscriptions, aided by a grant of £1,300 from the Church Com-
missioners. It is of a peculiar character both in design and construction, and more
impressive from singularity than beauty. Its style has been called the Byzantine,
or Eastern Eomanesque ; yet some of its features indicate the transition from the
Norman into early English, whilst the lofty bell tower attached to the south-eastern
extremity reminds the antiquary of the far-famed campanile of St. Mark's Church at
Venice.
The Church of Immanuel, on Streatham Common, is of early English architecture,
and was built in 1854. St. Peter's, in Leigham Court Eoad, was erected from the designs
of Mr. Eichard W. Drew, to serve for an ecclesiastical parish, formed in 1870 out of the
civil parishes of Lambeth and Streatham. The edifice is of brick, and in the decorated
style of architecture. St. Stephen's, Grove Eoad, is a Gothic structure, consisting of
a nave and chancel, and was built in 1867.
The village of Streatham is formed by an almost continuous range of villas, extending
from Brixton Hill, on either side of the road, towards Mitcham and Croydon. Numberless
detached villas and mansions have been built in different parts of the parish.
STREATHAM.
163
The (laughters of Mr. Tlu-ale, of Streatham Park, erected four almshouses in Streatham
for the use of poor widows, and there is an endowment for keeping them in roiiaii-.
Various charitable donations, but not of considerable amount, have been given at
different times for the distressed, of which £240, in the Navy 5 per cents., was bequeathed
by John Eichard Eipley, Esq., in 1819, for the relief of six poor men and women not
receiving parochial alms. Near the extremity of the village, on the Mitcham road,
are the St. Leonard's National Schools, a neat structure in the Elizabethan style, built
for the instruction of about a hundred children of either sex, on a plot of ground given
by Mrs. Kymcr. These schools have since been considerably enlarged. There are other
schools at Brixton Hill and Tooting. The number of acres in this parish is 2,904.
The Magdalen Hospital was removed to Leigham Court Eoad in 1868 from Blackfriars
Eoad, St. George's Fields, where it was originally founded about the middle of the last
centuiy. The present Hospital has accommodation for about a hundi-ed female penitents.
The chapel of this institution is open for public worship.
On the southern verge of the small common between Streatham and Tooting is
Steeatham Park, the ancient seat of Henry Thrale, Esq., (an affluent brewer of South-
wark), the amiable friend of Dr. Johnson, who during fifteen years was his almost
constant guest. Mrs. Thrale was highly distinguished for her conversational and literary
talents. She married Gabriel Piozzi, Esq., an Italian gentleman, by whom the villa
and surrounding grounds were considerably improved. After the decease of Mrs. Piozzi
in 1821 this estate was sold to a family of the name of Phillips. The house stood till
about 1868, when it was pulled do^vn, and the materials sold for building purposes.
It contained a series of valuable portraits, by Sir Joshua Eeynolds, of the chief literary
characters of Dr. Johnson's time: these were sold by auction in 1816, and Mrs. Piozzi's
household effects were disposed of in the same manner, at Brighton, in 1857. The estate
is now in part built upon ; but the memory of Mrs. Thrale is preserved by the name
of Thrale Hall, given to a large house on the estate, which was originally a hydropathic
establishment, but is now used as a private hotel or boarding-house. Constant allusions
to the old house and its hospitable inmates will bo found in Boswell's " Life of Johnson."'
Johnson's favoiuite summer-house here, in which it is said he wrote part of his Dictionary,
was demolished at the time when the house was pulled do^^•n.
The Manor op Balham. — This manor, anciently called Bclgcham and Bulc/ham,
was formerly included in the parish of Streatham, though it is noticed in the Doomsday
Book as if connected with Clapham. It then belonged to Geoffrey de Orlatcile, who
is stated to have held it without warrant from the Xing. The cultivation of the land
Y 2
1 64 HISTORY OF SURREY.
had probably been neglected after the Conquest, as the manor was valued at £G in
the reign of Edward the Confessor, and afterwards at only 20s.; but when in Orlateile's
possession its worth is said to have been £2. Nigel do Mandevillc (a younger son of
Goisfrid de Mandcville, who held Clapham at the time of the survey) gave 2 hides
of land in Balgham to the Cluniac monks of Bermondsey in 1103. In the reign of
Stephen this manor appears to have belonged to Pharamus de Bolonia, Lord of Clapham,
whose daughter and heiress, Sibil de Tingria, confirmed a grant of 1 hide of land in
Balgham, belonging to the manor of Clapham, made by one of her ancestors to the
Abbey of Bee, in Normandy.*
In 33 Henry VIII. John Simondes obtained a Crown lease for twenty-one years of
lands, meadows, and pastures, called Balams, in the parishes of Streatham and Clapham ;
and from the Patent EoUs of 2 & 3 Philip and Mary it appears that Balham, with
other estates, was granted for life to Ann Seymour, Duchess of Somerset, widow of the
Protector Somerset, executed in the preceding reign. In 1587 or 1588 Queen Elizabeth
granted " the fiirm of Balams, in Streatham," to Edward "Williams on lease ; and in
16 Charles I. William Smith died seized of a messuage so called, which he had lately
purchased of Nathaniel Bostock. At the commencement of the last century this manor
came into the possession of the Du Cane family. In 1855 the hamlet of Balham
was formed into an ecclesiastical parish out of the civil parish of Streatham.
The Church of St. Mary, Balham Hill, on the Tooting road, was originally a proprietary
chapel-of-ease ; it was erected in 1807, and opened in 1809. It is a plain brick building.
The living is now a vicarage, in the gift of the Eector of Streatham. In this neighbourhood
are numerous villas, chiefly occupied by opulent merchants and tradesmen of London.
The mansion and estate called Bedford House was conveyed in 1802, under the
designation of Cowy's or Charrington's Farm, and then consisting of nearly 166 acres
of land, with appurtenances, by the Bedford family to Thomas Graham and James
Graham, Esqs., partly in trust ; and it was eventually transferred to the late Eichardson
Borradaile, Esq., who erected the present house, with suitable offices, &c. In 1843 the
devisees of that gentleman conveyed the estate to Eobert Hudson, Esq., of Clapham,
by whom, shortly afterwards, it was sold to Mr. Cubitt. It is now the seat
of William Grantham, Esq., Q.C., M.P. for East Surrey. Most of the land in this
neighbourhood is in a state of rapid transition from agricultural to building purposes.^
. * Nichols, " Account of Alieu Priories," vol. i. pp. 1C4 — 167.
+ In Lysons's " Environs of London," vol. i. pp. 489 — 491, mil be found a memoir of a former native of Streatham,
named Eussell, who, like the celebrated Chevalier D'Eon, although a man, was always habited and known as a woman.
He died 1772, when his true sex was discovered.
1 6s
BARNES.
This parish is bounded ou the north by the river Thames, on the east and south
by Putney, and on the west by Mortlakc and Putney. The ancient name of this place
was Bcrnes, or Berne, the latter term, according to Lysons, signifying " a barn." The
soil in general is gravelly, especially towards the west, adjacent to the parish of
Putney ; but near the river is some rich meadoAV land. The entire parish contains 895
acres. Water is found here near the surface, as might be expected from the vicinity of
the Thames and the natiu-e of the soil, which is sand and gravel. Several large reservoii's,
constructed near the river at Barnes within these few years by the West Middlesex
Water Works Company, are contrived to purify the Thames water by filtration. The
principal landholders are the lion. William Lowther, Joseph Ileath, Esq., and Ilemy
Browne Alexander, Esq.
This manor was given to the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul's by King Athelstan. It is
thus described in the Doomsday Book : — ■
" The Canons of St. Paul's, London, hold Berne. In the time of King Edward it was
assessed at 8 hides, which were included in the rate with the Archbishop's manor of
Mortlake, as they are at present. There are 6 carucates of arable land. T\vo carucatos
arc in demesne ; and there are nine villains, and four bordars with 3 carucates ; and
20 acres of meadows. In the time of King Edward it was valued at £G : now,
at £7."
In the Taxation of Pope Nicholas, about 1291, the manor is valued as the property of
the canons at £12. In the reign of Edward II. the canons obtained from the King a
charter of free-warren * and an exemption from the charge of purveyance.
The estate has been generally let on lease for long terms. In 14G7 Sir John Sayc and
others were lessees of this manor, which they held with the advowson, and presented to the
living that year, and again in 1471 and 1477. Both the manor and advowson had beeu
transferred, in or before 1480, to Thomas Thwayte, Chancellor of the Exchequer and of the
Duchy of Lancaster. In 19 Henry YII. a lease was granted to Sir Ilcm-y Wiatt, and in
1513 and 1524 Sir Hemy presented to the living as patron and grantee of the Dean and
Chapter of St. Paul's. Thomas Smyth, Esq., purchased the remainder of Wiatt's lease, and
held it in 1567, soon after which he sold his interest in this estate to Sir Francis Walsing-
* From the Patent Rolls of 10 Henry IV. it appears that the Archbishop of Canterbury was entitled to a si^arrow-hawk
{espervcrium), or 2s. in money annually, and also £2 every twentieth year, for ever, from the lords of the manor of Barnes,
belonging to the Canons of St. Paul's, that they might be excused from ser\-ing the office of reeve in liia manor of
■Wimbledon.
,65 HISTORY OF SURREY.
liam Secretary of State to Queen Elizabeth, who resided at Barn-Elins, -where he enter-
tained her Majesty in 1589. Previously to that visit the Queen had taken a lease of
the manor from the Dean and Chapter, to commence from the termination (1600) of the
lease granted to Henry Wiatt, and by deed dated in her twenty-first year she assigned her
interest to "Walsingham and his heirs. That statesman died at his house in Seething Lane,
London, in 1590; and, as Stow relates, "he was, about tenne of the clocke in the next
night following, buried in Paul's church, without solemnitie." *
Frances, sole sui'viving daughter and heiress of Walsingham, was thrice married : first,
to the celebrated Sir Philip . Sidney ; secondly, to Eobert, Earl of Essex, the unfortunate
favourite of Queen Elizabeth ; and, after his death, to the Earl of Clanricarde. Essex
occasionally resided at Barn-Elms, and Lady Walsingham, his mother-in-law, died there in
1602, and was buried privately on the following night, near her husband's remains, in
St. Paul's Cathedral.
In 1639 the Dean and Chapter granted a new lease of this manor for twenty-one years
to John Cartwright, Esq., who, when the Church property was exposed for sale by the
Parliament, purchased the estate, and Eichard Shute, Esq., of London, bought the manor
and advowson. After the Eestoration of Charles II. the Dean and Canons recovered their
interest, and Mr. Cartwright, or his representatives, held it on lease as before. In the
reign of George II. John James Heydegger, a native of Switzerland, Master of the Eevels
at court, resided at Barn-Elms, probably as under-tenant of the Cartwright family, and
here he made entertainments for his royal patron. In the last century Eichard Hoare,
Esq. (son of Sir Eichard Hoare, Knt., and Lord Mayor of London in 1745), became lessee
of Barnes. He was created a Baronet in 1786, and succeeded by his only son, Sir Eichard
Colt Hoare, Bart., who enlarged the mansion and made many improvements here. About
1827 his interest was sold to the Hammersmith Bridge Company, but it was afterwards
transferred to Sir Thomas Colebrooke, Bart.
Barn-Elms was occupied for some years by the late Sir Lancelot Shadwell, Vice-
Chancellor ; it is now in the occupation of Henry Davis Pochin, Esq. Its situation is
extremely pleasant, near the banks of the Thames, and the home scenery is rendered
picturesque by many fine elms and other trees.
Near Barn-Elms was a house which belonged to Jacob Tonson the elder, bookseller
and secretary to the Kit-Cat Club. The meetings were at one period held here, in an
* Clirouicle, p. 1263. Lysons remarks that " lie died so poor that his friends were obliged to bury him in the
most private manner ; " and, in confirmation of his statement, he observes " that no certificate of his funeral appears to
have been entered at the Herald's College, as was usual when any person of consequence was interred in the manner
suitable to his rank."— ^jiriVons, voL i. pp. 12, 13.
«^
BARA-ES.
i67
apartment erected by Mr. Tonson for their accommodation, and which a few years after
was ornamented with portraits of the members, painted by Sir Godfrey Kncller.*
On January 17th, 1G67-S, a sort of battle-royal between three combatants on either
side took place in a close near 13arn-Elms. The parties were George Villiers,
Duke of Buckingham, attended by Sii* Robert Holmes and Captain William Jenkins ;
Francis Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, attended by Sir John Talbot, a gentleman of
the King's Privy Chamber, and M.P. for Knaresborough ; and Bernard Howard,
a younger son of the Earl of Arundel. Pepys, in reference to this " ducll," as
he terms it, says it was all " about my Lady Shrewsbury, at that time and for a
great while before a mistress to the Duke of Buckingham, and so her husband
challenged him, and they met ; and my Lord Shrewsbury was run through the body, from
the right breast through the shoulder ; and Sir John Talbot all along up one of his amies ;
and Jenkins killed upon the place, and the rest all in a little measure wounded." f A
pardon under the great seal, dated on February the 5th following, was granted to all the
persons concerned in this tragical affaii-, the result of Avhich proved more disastrous than
had at first been anticipated, for Lord Shrewsbury died in consequence of his wound in
the course of the same year.
Advowsox, &c. — Barnes is a rectory and rural deanery in the diocese of Eochester
(to which it has lately been transferred) ; but the living is still in the gift of the Dean
and Chapter of St. Paul's. In the Taxation of Pope Nicholas it is valued at £14 Cs. 8d. ;
"*■ The " Jlenioiis of the CV-leljrateil Persons composiiif; the Kit-Cat Club,'' -witli a prefatory account of the origin of
the institution, -ivere published in folio in 1821, illustrated with forty-eight portraits engraved from Kneller's paintings.
Walpole, speaking of the works of tliis artist in his " Anecdotes of Painting," says, " The Kit-Cat Club, generally
mentioned as a set of wits, were, in reality, the patriots that saved Britain." This club " had its beginning about the time
of the trial of the seven bishops in the reign of James II., and consisted of the most eminent men who opposed the measures
of that arbitrary monarch." Charles, Earl of Dorset, was one of the first who engaged in its formation ; it then consisted
of thirty-nine members, and none were admitted but those of high distinction and talent. They originally met at a house
in Sliire Lane, near Temple Bar, and, as some writers say, afterwards at the abode of Christopher Cat, who kept the
Fountain Tavern in the Strand. However this might be, there seems no doubt that a man of the name of Christopher
Cat, either as a pastrj'cook or as a tavern-keeper, furnished them with such delicious mutton pies that they became a stand-
ing dish at the meetings of the club, which at length, from the maker of these morceaiu, obtained the name of the Kit-
Cat Club. As Tonson's room at Barnes, where the club often dined, and where the portraits were originally intended to
be placed, was not lofty enough for what are called half-length pictures, a shorter canvas was used (viz. 36 inches long and
28 inches wide), but sufficiently long to admit a hand. This occasioned the Kit-Cat size to become a technical terra in
painting for such as were of similar dimensions and foim.
Manning notices a very old house on Barnes Green wliich was sometime the residence of Henry Fielding, the
celebrated author of " Tom Jones." It was called Milbovime House from a family of the name, of whom William
MUleboume, Esq., was buried in the chancel at Barnes in 1415, and represented by an incised brass in plate armour.
T "Diary," vol. iv. p. 15. During the fight the Countess of Shrewsbury is reported to have held the Duke's horse
in the dress of a page. This lady was Anna JIaria BrudeneU, daughter of Robert, Earl of Cardigan. She survived both
her gallant and her first hitsband, and was married, secondly, to George Rodney Brydges, son of Sir Thomas Brydges, of
Keynsham, in Somersetshire : she died on the 20th of April, 1702.
168 HISTORY OF SURREY.
and in the King's books at £9 3s. 4cl., paying Gs. 8d. for procurations, and, according to
Ecton, Gs. 8d. to tlie lord of the manor. This benefice was formerly a vicarage ; but in
1388 the canons, who held the advowson, endowed it with the great tithes. Under the
Commutation Acts the rent-charge has been fixed at £315 per annum, in lieu of tithes.
The Eegister is among the most ancient in the kingdom, as the entries commence in
1538, immediately after the appointment of such records by Lord Cromwell.*
Eedors of Barnes in and since 1800 : — •
1. — John Jeffreys, M.A. Instituted in 1795.
2. — Reginald Edward Copleston, M.A. Instituted in 1840.t
* Among the entries in tlie Eegister are the following : —
" Robert Eeale, Counsellor of the north, and dark of the pri\'y council, departed out of this life on Monday at eight
of the clock at night, being the 25th of May, and is buried in London, 1601." This gentleman married a sister of Lady
Walsingham, and having been introduced to Queen Elizabeth, obtained official employments, and became one of her
principal confidants. Her Majesty repeatedly intrusted him with her negotiations with Mary, Queen of Scots, and being
appointed the messenger of her fate to that princess, he read the warrant for her execution on the scaffold at Fotheringhay
Castle, and was a -witness of her decapitation.
"Aug. 23, 1672, buried Mr. Hiam." The person thus designated was properly named Abiezer Coppe. He was a
native of Warwick, and was educated at Oxford, but after having been a Presbyterian, and then an Anabaptist, he became
one of the wildest enthusiasts of the fanatical period in which he Uved. He published several pamphlets with odd titles
and strange contents. He was sent to Newgate in 1650 for having published one entitled " The Fiery Fljdng Roll," the
writer of which apparently was a fitter subject for a madhouse than a prison. After being confined more than a year he
was called before the House of Commons, and having obtained his liberation, he retired to Barnes, where he practised as
a physician, under the name of Higham, and he preached occasionally at the neighbouring conventicles.
"June 10, 1697, Mrs. Ann Baynard buried." Mrs. Baynard was interred under a tomb at the east end of the
churchyard, of which there were no traces remaining at the close of the last century ; but Aubrey has preserved the
following epitaph, -svhich was inscribed on it : —
Here lies that happy maiden, who often said,
That no man is happy until he is dead ;
That the business of life is but playing the fool.
Which hath no relation to saving the soul ;
For all the transaction that's under the sun, -v
Is doing of nothing, — if that be not done : >
AU wisdom and knowledge does lye in this one. ^
Ann Baynard obiit Jun. 12, ann. setat. suse 25, Christi 1697.
0 niortales ! quotusc|,uisque vestrum cogitet ! ex hoc momento pendet ceternitas.
Mrs. Baynard has been eulogized by George Ballard in his " Memoirs of Learned Ladies," and likewise in a funeral
nermon preached at Barnes, June 16th, 1G97, by the Rev. John Prude, JI.A. From these authorities it appears that she
was well skilled in natural philosophy, botany, mathematics, and classical literature, and that she understood Greek and
Latin, having studied the former of those languages in order that she might be able to read the works of St. John
Chrysostom in the original. She was the only child of Dr. Edward Baynard, an eminent physician.
+ Among the clergymen who held this living in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries were several who deserve
notice on account of their literary reputation, viz. : —
Hezekiah Burton, D.D., was a Fellow of Magdalen College, Cambridge, where he acquired much renown as an
academical tutor. He was instituted Rector of Barnes in 1680, but died of a malignant fever in 1681, and was interred in
Barnes Church. Dr. Burton cliiefly distinguished himself by his endeavours to reconcile the Protestant Dissenters to the
Episcopal Establishment in the reign of Charles II. His Sermons were edited by his friend Dr. Tillotson in 1684, with
a biographical prefatory memoir.
Francis Hare, D.D., was educated at Eton and King's College, Cambridge. He became residentiary of St. Paul's,
3.—IIciir// Ilch'iU, B.D. lustituted in 1SG3.
4,— Peter Goldsmith 3IcdJ, M.A. Instituted iu 1S70.
5.— John Ultcrton, M.A. Instituted in 1S7G.
The cliurch, dedicated to St. Mary, was an ancient structure, erected in or before the
reign of Eicliard I., wlien a hospital having been founded within the liberties of St. Paul's
Cathech-alby one of the canons, the Dean and Chapter bestowed on it the church of Barnes,
with the glebe and tithes. So many alterations have been made at various times tliat
scarcely any part of the original building noAv remains. The church was considerably
enlarged in 17SG and 1787 : further additions were afterwards made, and the walls
stuccoed. The tower is supposed to have been built about the latter part of the fifteenth
century, and has a staircase and turret at the south-east angle. It is of brick, with stone
quoins, repaired with cement, and contains three bells. The interior, which consists of
nave, chancel, and north aisle, contains about 520 pews and sittings, of which seventy are
free. Against the north wall is a handsome monument in white marble, representing a
mourning female leaning upon an urn, and holding a medallion of Sir Eichard Hoare, Bart.,
who died in 1787. His second wife and relict. Dame Frances Anne Hoare, who erected
this memorial, died in 1800.
On the south side of the church, in a recess between two buttresses enclosed by wooden
rails, a few rosc-trccs are cultivated, in pursuance of the will of Mr. Edward Eosc, citizen
of London, who died in 1G53, as stated on a small tablet affixed to the church Avail. He
bequeathed to the parish of Barnes the sum of £20 for the purchase of an acre of laud,
from the rent of which the churchAvardens were enjoined to keep in repair' the paling of the
enclosure, and maintain a succession of rose-bushes : the surplus funds to be applied for the
benefit of the poor. In the churchyard arc numerous tombs and other sepulchral
memorials, some of which are decorated.
and was instituted to the rectory of Barnes iu 1717, and he hehl the li\-iiif,' during ten years. Dr. Hare was also Dean of
Worcester : in 1727 he was raised to the bishopric of St. Asaph, and in 1731 translated to that of Chichester. lie died iu
1740. The works of this prelate were published in four vols. 8vo. His chief Hterary production was an edition of the
Comedies of Terence.
John Hume, D.D., held the living of Barnes from 1747 to 17o8, when he was promoted to the bishopric of Bristol.
Thence, in the same year, he was translated to the see of Oxford, and in 17G6 to that of Salisbury. He died in
1782.
Ferdinando Warner, LL.D., obtained the rectory of Barnes on the resignation of Dr. Hume in 1758. His principal
production was an " Ecclesiastical History of England, from the earliest Accounts to the present [eighteenth] Century,"
1759, two vols, folio. He published other works on History, and likewise on Divinity, and, besides these, a " Treatise on
the Gout," with an account of a peculiar method he had adopted in his own case. Yet the disease he had professed to
cure proved fatal to him. He died in 1763.
Christopher Wilson, D.D., was presented to this benefice on the decease of Dr. Warner. He was a Trebendary of
Westminster, and in 1785 was raised to the see of Bristol, over which he presided untU his decease in 1792.
VOL. III. Z
j^o HISTORY OF SURREY.
A district cliiu-cli, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, has been erected by subscription, in
Castlenati, near Hammersmith. Bridge.
The principal portion of this village feces the river, forming a long range of good
houses intersected with gardens. Hence a long street extends to Barnes Common, around
which are many cottages and villas. Here, too, is the National School, with accommo-
dation for about 100 children. On Barnes Common is a station on the Eichmond and
Windsor branch of the South- Western Eailway.
The Hammersmith Suspension Bridge.— Between the river shore in this parish and
Hammersmith, in Middlesex, a chain suspension bridge was constructed across the Thames
by a company of shareholders, who were incorporated by an Act of Parliament passed in
1824, and empowered to raise money, levy tolls, &c. The designs were made by
Mr. Tierney Clarke, civil engineer, and the bridge was erected under his superintendence,
the contract for the ironwork having been taken by Captain Brown, E.K. In 1825 the
fli'st stone was laid with great ceremony by his late Eoyal Highness the Duke of Sussex,
Grand Master of the Freemasons, and the bridge was completed and opened in 1827.
At this point the river is 750 feet wide, and the chains are suspended by two strong
intermediate towers of stone, each about 153 feet from the shore, and having an extent
of water-way between them of 400 feet. These towers rise to the height of nearly 64 feet
above high-water mark, and 42 feet above the level of the roadway, over which they form
arches of the Tuscan order. Eight chains of wrought iron pass over these towers, and
are firmly bolted into solid granite abutments on either shore. In the centre, these chains,
which support the roadway by means of vertical rods, make a dip, or curvature, of about
29 feet. The floor of the roadway is formed by strong timbers, on which the pavement
is laid. The total weight of the irouAVork is 472 tons. About £80,000 were expended in
the construction of this bridge. Of late years this bridge has been closed on the day
of the University Boat Eacc, as unsafe for the large crowds which used to occupy it.
About the middle of the last century the culture of the cedar of Lebanon was carried
on to a great extent at Barnes by a butcher named Clarke, Avho first raised his plants from
the cones of the great tree at Hendon Place. The late Mr. Peter CoUinson, from Avhose
autobiographical notes we derive this information, and who, in 1761, paid £79 6s. for a
thousand of these young cedars for replanting in the Duke of Eichmond's park at Good-
Avood, in Sussex, says that Mr. Clarke " succeeded perfectly, and annually raised them in
such quantities, that he supplied the nurserymen, as well as abundance of noblemen and
gentlemen, with cedars of Lebanon ; and he succeeded not only in cedars, but he had a
great knack in raising the small magnolia, Warner's Cape jessamine, and all other exotic
BATTERSEA. 171
seeds, lie built a large stove for piuc-apples, &c." — i^VkJc Tninsaclions of the Linncccm
Sociciy, vol. x. pp. 274-5.) Mr. CoUinson further states that the -weeping M'illow, " (he
original of all the weeping willows in our gardens, was transplanted from the river
Euphi-ates by Mr. Vernon, Turkey merchant at Aleppo, brought with him to England,
and planted at his seat at Twickenham-park," where he saw it growing in 1748. — Id.
BATTERSEA.
This parish is situated about three miles from Westminster Bridge. The Thames bounds
it on the north, while it adjoins Lambeth on the east, Camberwell, Streatham, and Clapham
on. the south, and Wandsworth on the west. But besides that portion of Battersea parish
withiu these limits, there is a detached district, forming the hamlet of Pcnge, between
Beckenham, in Kent, on the east, and Norwood on the west. A great part of Wands-
worth Common belongs to this parish, as also does that division of Clapham Common
called Battersea Eise. Its name was anciently written Baftrics-cij, and in the Doomsday
Book rutriccs-ci/, probably a mistake for Fctricc-cij, and signifying St. Peter's Isle, the
termination ey, from the Saxon eye, often occurring in the names of places adjacent
to great rivers, as Putney, Moulsey, &c , near the banks of the Thames.
The manor is thus described in the Doomsday Book among the lands belonging to the
Abbot of Westminster :—
" St. Peter of Westminster holds Patriccsy. Earl Ilnrold held it, and it was then
assessed at 72 hides ; now at 18 hides. The arable laud is . Three carucatcs are in
demesne ; and there arc forty-live villains, and sixtecii bordars, with 14 carucatcs. There
are eight bondmen : and seven mills at .£42 9s. 8d., and a corn-rent of the same amount ;
and 82 acres of meadow ; and a wood yielding fifty swine for pannage. There is in
Southwark one bordar (belonging to this manor), paying 12d. From the toll of
Wendelesorde (Wandsworth) is received the sum of £G. A villain having ten swine pays
to the Lord one ; but if he has a smaller number, nothing. One knight holds 4 hides of
this land ; and the money he pays is included in the preceding estimate. The entire
manor, in the time of King Edward, was valued at £80 ; afterwards at £30 ; and now at
£75 9s. 8d. King William gave this manor to St. Peter in exchange for Windsor. The
Earl of Moreton. holds 11 hides of land, which in King Edward's time, and afterwards,
belonged to this manor. Gilbert the Priest holds 3 hides under the same circumstances.
The Bishop of Lisieux had 2 hides, of Avhich the church (of Westminster) was seised in
the time of King William, and disseised by the Bishop of Bayeux. The Abbot of
HISTORY OF SURREY.
Chertsey holds 1 hide, which the Bailiff of this vill, out of ill-will [to the Abbot of
Westminster ?] detached from this manor, and appropriated it to Chertsey." *
Spelman (" Glossarium," p. 79), under the word Bereivica, states that it means the
member of a manor disjoined from the main body, as a vill, or hamlet, and he quotes a
passage from the Eegister of Sulcardus, a monk of Westminster, stating that William the
Conqueror gave to the abbey Batrichesey, with the Berewic {cum Berewico) adjoining it
named Wendlesworde, or Wandsworth.f
Many grants of privileges, in respect to their manor of Battersea, were made by different
sovereigns to the Abbots of Westminster: among them was an exemption, made by
Stephen, from tax for 61 hides in his manor of Westminster, in which stood his aula, or
palace, and also for 44 hides in Patrichesea ; but the remainder of that manor was to be
liable to all taxes to the King.
After the suppression of monasteries this manor remained vested in the Crown until
Elizabeth granted it on a lease for twenty-one years to Henry Eoyden; and in 1593, Joan,
the only daughter of Henry Eoyden, had another lease for a similar term. Subject to this
lease, the manor, iu 1610, was assigned towards the maintenance of Henry, Prince of Wales :
after his decease it was appropriated in the same manner to his brother, Prince Charles,
who granted it, in 1627, in fee to Oliver, Lord St. John, and Yiscount Grandison of
Limerick, in Ireland. That nobleman, second son of Nicholas St. John, of Lidiard Tregoze,
Wilts, had married the above Joan after the decease of Sir William Holcroft, her ffrst
husband. In 1026 he was made an English peer, with the title of Baron St. John, of
Lidiard Tregoze. On his decease without issue in 1 030, the English title became extinct,
but that of Grandison descended to his grand-nephew, William Yilliers, father of the
notorious Duchess of Cleveland. The Battersea estate also came into the hands of Villiers,
who granted it to his cousin. Sir John St. John, Bart., who died in 1648. Oliver, the
eldest son of that gentleman, having died before him, this manor devolved on his grandson,
John St. John, a minor, on whose decease without issue the baronetcy and family estate
* The 1 1 hides of land held by the Earl of Moreton were proLably the same that are stated, in the account of the
Earl's manor of Streatham, to have been held by Harold. The land held by the Bishop of Lisieux no doubt ^vas Peckham,
mentioned among the estates of Bishop Odo, and expressly said to have been held by Harold in the reign of the Confessor,
to which it is added that it lay in Battersea. The land in the teniire of the Abbot of Chertsey may have been at Tooting,
Tv-here Haimo the sheriff held 1 hide of the abbot which had been held of King Edward by Osward, who could remove
whither he pleased.
+ The following document relative to this grant, or transfer, has been published in Dugdale's " Monasticon," from
a manuscript in the Cottonian Library, viz. "Cartularium Cenobii Westmonasteriensis," Faust. A. iii. fol. 112, b : —
" Willem king gret Stigan Arcebiscop & Eustaties Eorll, & alle mine thegnes on Surrejie freondlice k ice kithe eow
that ice habbe se umien that land at Batericheseye & Piriford to Crist and Saint Petre into Westminstre, swa full & swa
ford swa Harold is firmist hafte on alien thingen thas dage the he was cwicu & dead."
BATTERSEA. ,73
became vested in Sii- Walter St. Jolin, liis uuclc, "craiucut for his piety and moral virtues."
He died in 1708, and was succeeded by his sou Ilenry, who long previously had pleaded
guilty of the murder of Sir William Estcourt, Bart., in a sudden quarrel arising at a
sujipcr party. This case, however, if the account given by Bishop Burnet bo correct,
could be regarded only as manslaughter; but he was induced to plead guilty of the
greater crime by a promise of pardon if he followed that advice, or of being subjected to
the utmost rigoui' of the law on his refusal. No pardon is enrolled, but it is stated that
the King granted him a reinieve for a long term of years ; and in the Eolls Chapel is a
restitution of his estates (Pat. 36 Charles II.), for which, and the reprieve conjoined, it
would seem he had to pay £16,000, one-half of Avhich, Burnet says, " the King converted
to his own use, and bestowed the remainder on two ladies then high in favour." *
In 1716 this gentleman was created Baron St. John of Battersea, and Tiscouut St. John,
with remainder to the issue male of his second marriage with Augcliquc Magdaleiuo
Pillesary (his only son by his first wife being then under attainder) ; and, on his decease in
1742, his titles descended to John St. John, his eldest siu-viving son by that lady.
By his first wife, Mary, daughter and coheiress of Eobcrt Eich, Earl of Warwick,
Ilenry, Yiscount St. John, had only one son, Ilenry, born at Battersea in 1678. In 1710
he became Secretary of State to Queen Anne, by whom, in 1713, he was created Baron
St. John of Lidiard Tregoze, and Viscount Bolingbrokc, a title to which he gave celebrity
by his abilities as a philosopher and a statesman. lie was attainted of treason, for
intriguing with the partisans of the Pretender, on the accession of George I., and having
fled to France, he entered into the service of the Chevalier de St. George, which after a
time he relinquished, and in 1723, having been restored in blood, he returned to England.
In 1725 an Act of Parliament was passed to annul the attainder so far as to enable him
to inherit the family estate, in consequence of which, on the decease of his father, he
became possessed of the Battersea property, and held it until his death in 1751. He was
twice married, but had no issue by either of his consorts ; and Battersea, with his other
estates, as well as his titles, descended to his nephew Frederick (son of his half-brother
John, Yiscount St. John), by whom this manorial property was sold, in pui'suancc of an
Act of Parliament obtained in 1762, to the trustees of John, Earl Spencer, to whose
descendant, the present Earl Spencer, it now belongs.
BoLiXGBEOKE HousE, the seat of the St. John family, was a large mansion standing near
the church, and said to have contained forty rooms on a floor. It was mostly pulled down
about 1777, and some years afterwards a horizontal air-mill of a peculiar construction
* Bimiet, " History of Ms own Times," fol. 1724, vol. i. p. 6U0.
,74. HISTORY OF SURREY.
was erected on the site of the demolished jDart, for the grindiug of liuseed for oil. It was
afterwards used for grinding malt to suj^ply the distillery of Messrs. Hodgson & Co., by
whom, on the site of the gardens and terrace, extensive bullock houses were built, capable
of receiving 650 head of cattle, which were fattened with the grains from the distillery
mixed with meal. This establishment was relinquished many years since, and the upper
part of the mill and other buildings were taken down. The lower part of the mill,
still standing, noAV forms portion of a flour-mill. Much of the old mansion yet remains,
including an oak-panelled room, known as " Pope's Parloiu," in Avhich it is said that Pope
wrote his ''Essay on Man." Some of the iip-stair rooms have ceilings richly ornamented
with stucco-work and allegorical paintings.
York House, Battersea. — In the reign of Henry YI., Thomas, Lord Stanley, possessed
a considerable estate in " Batrichesey, Wandsworth, and Wassingham," which, possibly to
avoid its confiscation, he convej'cd to trustees, for his OAvn benefit, and that of Thomas, his
son and heir. In 14G0 the trustees transferred this property to Lawrence Bothe, or
Booth, Bishop of Durham, and his heirs, and in the following year the grant was
confirmed by Lord Stanley and his son. Notwithstanding this conveyance, we find that
the Stanley estate had escheated to the Crown before 11 Edward IV., in consequence of
John Stanley having assigned these lands and tenements in trust to the Abbot of
Westminster, in contravention of the Statute of Mortmain. The Bishop in consequence
found it necessary to apply to the King, and, on the payment of £700, he obtained a grant,
under letters-patent dated 1472, of six messuages, 100 acres of land, 30 of meadow, and
20 of pasture, with all rents, services, hereditaments, &c., in the above places, forfeited by
John Stanley. He had also the King's license to enclose his mansion-house called Brygge
Court, which he had built at Battersea, " with walls and towers, and to impark his land
there, with the right of free warren and free chace therein." *
Bishop Booth was translated to the archiepiscopal see of York in 117G, and prior to his
decease in 14S0 he bequeathed this property to the Dean and Chapter of York, with a
view to the accommodation of his successors in the see, as an occasional residence when
visiting London. But few of these prelates have ever resided here ; and of these.
Archbishop Holgate, who was imprisoned and deprived by Queen Mary for being a
married man, lost much property by illegal seizure. f
* Palent Rolls, 14 Edw. IV. u. 2.
t In Strype's " Life of CraDmer," p. 308, it is slated that the officers eniplojcd to apprehend the Archhishop rifled
liis liouse at Battersea, and took away from thence £300 of gold coin ; 1,600 oz?. of plate ; a mitre of fine gold, with two
pendants set ronnd about the sides and middle with very fine pointed diamonds, sapphires, and halists, and all the plain
with other good stones and pearls, and the pendants in lilie manner, weighing 125 ozs. ; some very valuable rings ; a
serpent's tongue set in a standard of silver gilt, and graven ; the Archbishop's seal in silver ; and his signet, an antic^ue in gold.
BATTERSEA. 175
During the supremacj' of the Parliament and suspension of episcopal rule York House
and its appiu-tenances -were sold to Sii' Allen Apsley and Col. Hutchinson, his brother-in-
law, for the sum of £1,806 3s. 6d., but they were reclaimed by the sec after the Eestoration,
and still belong to it. Since that event, and indeed from a much earlier period, this
estate has been granted on lease for long terms to different persons. York House stood
near the riverside, and its site is now occupied by Price's Candle Factory. Its name is
kej)t in remembrance by York Eoad,
A considerable part of Battersea, formerly occupied as market gardens, is now built
upon, or covered by railways ; whilst various large manufactiu-ing establishments, chemical
works, foundi-ies, &c., extend along the waterside. The establishment here for the
preservation of timber from the dry-rot, called Ivyanizing, from the name of its inventor,
was destroyed by fire in 1847.
On the river's bank, nearly opposite to the gardens of Chelsea Hospital, formerly stood
a place of entertainment called the Eed House, which had long been a favourite resort of
the patrons of aquatic sports and pigeon-shooting. The house stood in what was known
as Battersea Fields, the whole of which has been converted into a fine park, with
parterres and cricket grounds. The park covers 198 acres, and has sheets of ornamental
water 23 acres in extent.
At a short distance eastward are the reservoirs and engine-house of the Southwark
and Yauxhall "Water Company. The reservoirs cover nearly 18 acres of ground: two of
them are used as filters, and are to a certain depth filled A^-ith sand, through which
the water percolates, leaving the impurities on the surface, to be removed at pleasure.
Here arc steam-engines of 500-horse power, which, by forcing up the water through
perpendicular iron tubes to the height of 175 feet, raise it sufficiently to sujjply the
inhabitants of Brixton and other elevated places.
About 40 acres of land in this parish have lately been purchased for building purposes,
and a large number of dwelling-houses for artisans have been erected upon the most
improved sanitary principles : the block of houses is called the Shaftesbury Park Estate.
The number of acres estimated and tithable in this parish is about 2,200.
Ekctort and Yicaeage. — About 1159, Laurence, Abbot of "Westminster, obtained the
appropriation of the great tithes for his monastery, oiit of which the monks were to receive
2 marks, and sufficient reserved to support the vicar. In the Taxation of Kicholas,
1201, the rectory was rated at 2G|^ marks, or £17 13s. 4d., and the vicarage at G marks
and 40d., or £4 3s. 4d. In the King's books this benefice, which is in the deanery of
Southwark, is valued at £13 15s. 2^d. Queen Elizabeth granted the rectory and advowson
jjS HISTORY OF SURREY.
to Edward Downing and Peter Asliton, who "probably sold them to the St. Johns, and
they have passed ever since with the manor, and now belong to Earl Spencer." * At the
present time the rectorial rent-charge, including £2 on glebe, is £45, and the vicarial rent-
charge £969 9s. 9d., exclusive of £10 16s. on a glebe of about 16 acres.
The Eegisters commence in 1559, but are very imperfect in the former part of the last
century. The following instances of longevity occur among the entries : —
Goody Hazleton, aged lOS years, was buried Oct. 29, 1703.
William Abbots, tetat. 101, buried Jan. 5, 1733.
Oct. 1790, buried Wiat, aged 100 years.
Dec. 27, 1803, buried William Douse, aged 100 years.
Vicars of Battersea in and since 1800 : —
1. — John Gurdnor, M.A. Instituted in 1778.t
2. — Joseph Allen, D.D. (afterwards Bishop of Bristol and of Ely). Instituted in 1808.
3. — Hon. and Rev. Rohert John Eden, M.A., Chaplain to the Queen (afterwards
Bishop of Sodor and Man, and of Bath and Wells). Instituted in 1834.
4. — James S. JcnJcinson, M.A. Instituted in 1847.
b.—John Erslcine Clarke. Instituted in 1872.
Batteesea Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is conspicuously situated on the banks of
the river, at about a quarter of a mile above the bridge, but has no pretensions to
architectural beauty. The present structure of brick with rustic quoins was erected in
place of an older church, under the provisions of an Act of Parliament (14 Geo. III. cap.
95), and at a cost of something more than £5,000 : it was first opened in 1777. About
1823 an entrance portico, of the Doric order, was annexed to the tower at the west end.
The tower is surmounted by a low, heavy-looking octagonal spire, and contains a clock
and eight bells. At the east end is a recess for the communion-table, above which is a
central window in three divisions, filled with old stained glass preserved from the former
church, and executed at the expense of the St. Johns. It includes the half-length portraits
of Henry VII., his grandmother, the Lady Margaret Beauchamp, and Queen Elizabeth,
together with many enrichments and numerous shields of arms, showing the alliances of
the family.ij: In 1877-8 the interior of this church was partially restored, being rcpaved,
and reseated with open benches, in place of the old-fashioned pews.
* Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. iii. pp. 334, 335.
+ The Rev. Mr. Gardnor was a somewhat clever artist, and a frequent exhibitor at the Eoyal Academy.
X These emblazonments are fully described ia Manning and Bray's " Surrey," vol. iii. pp. 335, 336.
BATTERSEA. 177
Among tlic lucmorials of the Bolingbrokcs is that of Ilcnry St. Jobn, Yiscount
Boliugbrokc (the friend of Swift, Pope, and Gay, and author of many political and
metaphysical works),* who died in 1751, and his second lady, Mary Clara dcs Champs
de Marcilly, Marchioness do Villctte, niece of Madame de Maintenon : she died in 1750.
This monument, which is of grey and white marble, was executed by Eoubilliac.
The upper part displays an urn with drapery, surmounted by the Viscount's arms, and
the lower portion records the characters of the deceased, flanked by their medallions in
profile in bas-relief.
Another monument commemorates the descent and preferments of Oliver St. John,
Viscoxmt Grandison, &c., the first of his family that settled at Battersea. "When a young
man and studying the law at one of the Inns of Court, he became involved in a quarrel
with Best, a captain of the guard to Queen Elizabeth, and champion of England, whom
he killed in a duel in 15S4. Obliged to leave the kingdom, he afterwards served in the
army under Lord Vero, and eventually in Ireland, of which country, by the ftivour of
Yilliers, Duke of Buckingham, he was made both Lord Treasurer and Lord Deputy. He died
in 1630. Joan, his lady, daughter of Sir Henry Eoydon, was also buried here. They arc
represented on the monument, altered when replaced, by busts in white marble : above the
inscription are the arms and quartcrings of St. John, impaling Eoydon.
The monument of Sir Edward "Wynter, in the south gallery, has obtained much notice
on account of the singular exploits recorded by the inscription and sculptxu-o. lie appears
to have been a friendless but adventurous youth, who by his courage, diligence, and good
conduct, became eminent as an East India merchant, and, as the epitaph states,
Nor less in martial honour was his name,
Witness his actions of immortal fame !
Alone, unarm'd, a Tyger he oppress'd
And crushed to death the monster of a beast.
Twice twenty mounted Moors he overthrew
Singly on foot, some wounded, some he slew,
Dispers'd the rest, — what more could Sampson do \
True to his friends, a terror to his foes,
Here now in peace his honom-'d bones repose.
At the top is a large bust of Sir Edward in a flowing peruke and lace cravat ; imderneath the
inscription are sculptures in low relief of his struggling with the "tyger" and his combat
with the Moors. He died in 1685-6. At the cast end of the south aisle is the monument
of Sir John Fleet, Knt., Lord Mayor of London in 1693, and M.P. for that city during
* It was to this nobleman that Pope addressed his " Essay on Man," written undor his advice and recommendation,
and partly composed in a " cedar parlour " of Bolingbroke House, fronting the Thames, reported to have been the poet's
favourite studv.
'78
HISTORY OF SURREY.
thirteen years. The inscription testifies that " He was a mercifull and just Magistrate,
constant to the Chiirch, loyall to his Prince, and true to his Country." He died in 1712.
Near the above is a small statue of a mourning female leaning upon an urn. This was
erected by the benevolent James Neild, a follower of John Howard in his endeavours to
mitigate the evils of imprisonment, in memory of his wife Elizabeth, and of her fiither,
John Camden, Esq. The former died in 1791, the latter in 1780. At the east end of
the south aisle a neat tablet records the memory of Thomas Astle, Esq., F.S.A., Keeper of
the Records in the Tower, and author of an ingenious work "On the Origin and Progress
of Writing." He died in 1802.
In the churchyard was buried in 1700 Arthur Collins, Esq., a laborious writer on
genealogy and history, and author of " Collins's Peerage ; " and opposite the west porch is
the gravestone of Mr. William Curtis, author of the "Flora Londinensis " and other
botanical works, who died in 1799.
The great increase in the population of this parish, and indeed all the suburban
districts around London, during the last fifty or sixty years, has occasioned a necessity for
additional places of Avorship. In 1827 a chapcl-of-ease, dedicated to St. George, was
erected about midway between Nine Elms and Battersea. The edifice, in the early lancet
style, by Edward Blore, Esq., architect, was consecrated by the Bishop of Winchester in
1828. About £3,000 were expended on this building, which was partly defrayed by a
grant, and partly by subscription. This church was enlarged in 1874. Christ Church, in
Battersea Park Eoad, was built in 1847, from the designs of Messrs. Lee and Bury : it is
a Gothic edifice, and contains sittings for 900 worshij^pers. St. John's Chtjech, TJsk Eoad,
is of early English architecture, and was consecrated in 1863. St. Saviour's, Battersea
Park Eoad, was built in 1871, and is of early French Gothic design: it contains sittings
for 700. St. Peter's, ISTewcommon Eoad, near Clapham Junction, is a Gothic brick
building, and was completed in 1876. St. PniLir's, Queen's Eoad, Battersea Park, was
consecrated in 1870 : it is of decorated Gothic architecture, and was built from the designs
of Mr. K. J. Knowles.
In this parish, in the Lower Wandsworth Eoad, an Anabaptist chapel was erected
about 1829, in place of a smaller one originally built in 1738. Of the earlier congre-
gation little is known; but after the late Eev. Joseph Hughes became pastor here in 1794,
the zeal, energy, learning, and eloquence which he displayed attracted so much attention
that many of the neighbouring gentry were induced to join the assembly. His connection,
also, with different local societies for the promotion of religious worship made him
acquainted with Mr. Wilberforce, Mr. Vansittart, Mr. Perceval, and other gentlemen
BATTERSEA. ,79
of station and influence, by whoso aid Le established the Surrey Mission Society. At a
meeting of the Eeligious Tract Society ho afterwards promulgated the idea of an institution
for sujaplying not only the inhabitants of the British Isles, but the whole world, with
copies of the Holy Scriptiu-cs ; hence arose the Bible Society, of which Mr. Ilughes was
the active agent and secretary until his persevering exertions in the cause of religion
were arrested by death in 1834. Besides the above, there are in this parish a church
for Eoman Catholics, and places of Avorship for Wesleyans and other denominations. A
large Board School was opened in this parish in 1874 for 1,000 children.
The National Society's Training College. — This institution, designed for the
training of young men to become schoolmasters, owes its origin to Dr. J. P. Kay
(afterwards Sir J. P. Kay-Shuttleworth) and E. C. TufncU, Esq., Assistant Poor-Law
Commissioners, whom the ignorance and immorality of pauper children prompted to
investigate and make trial of some means of securing to that large class of tlie community
a better education.
These gentlemen, lamenting the prevalent incompetency of the teachers intrusted with
the education of the poor, resolved to make an effort for the production of a better
description of schoolmasters. They accordingly visited Holland, Prussia, Switzerland,
Saxony, Paris, &c., for the pui'pose of examining the operation of the establishments
projected by Pestalozzi, De Fellenberg, and other enlightened promoters of the education
of the poor ; and the result of their observations was a desire and hope to establish in this
country a Normal School for imparting to young men that due amount of knowledge,
and training them in those habits of simplicity and earnestness, which might render them
useful instructors to the poor. With this view they were led to select "a spacious
manor-house close to the Thames at Battersea, chiefly on account of the very frank and
cordial welcome with which the suggestion of their plan was received by the vicar, the
Hon. and Eev. E. Eden." That gentleman offered the use of his village schools in aid of
the training school, as a sphere in which the Normal students might obtain practice and
direction in the art of teaching. He also undertook to superintend the training school in
aU that related to religion.
Boys were first obtained from the School of Industry at Norwood, and were intended to
remain three years in training. With these were afterwards associated some young men
whose period of residence was necessarily limited to one year. The institution, now
known as St. John's College, was first put in operation at the commencement of 18 iO, and
it continued under the direction of Dr. Kay and Mr. Tufuell, supported by their private
means, and conducted in its various departments of instruction and industrial labour by
i8o HISTORY OF SURREY.
tutors and superintendents appointed by them, until the close of 1843 when the
establishment T^as put on a foundation of permanency by the directors transferring it into
the hands of the National Society. Several continental modes of instruction had been
adopted by Dr. Kay and Mr. Tufuell, such as Mulhauser's method of writing, Wilhem's
method of singing, Dupuis' method of drawing, &c. ; and the results of their benevolent
experiment were so satisfactory that a grant of £2,200 for the extension and improvement
of the premises was made to them by the Committee of Council on Education, which
grant was transferred to the National Society, and forthwith expended in the requisite
alterations. New dormitories, a dining-hall, lavatories, &c., were then built, and in the
early part of 1846 a large new class-room was erected and filled with every kind of
apparatus for the use of the students.
Penge, as stated above, is a hamlet of Battersea, although separated for ecclesiastical
purposes. It contains several places of worship, schools, and public institutions, and the
district is rapidly increasing in the number of its population. In Penge Lane is Zing
William lY.'s Naval Asylum for decayed widows of naval officers. At Penge Common is
an asyliim for worn-out watermen and lightermen, erected in 1840, containing forty-one
houses and a spacious committee-room.
Batteksea Bridge was erected in pursuance of an Act of Parliament of 6 Geo. III.
cap. 66, obtained under the sanction of John, Earl Spencer, lord of the manor, and
proprietor of a ferry across the Thames. It was built in 1771 — 1772, by the late
Mr. IloHand, at the expense of fifteen proprietors, each of whom subscribed £1,500.
The roadway, slightly curved and guarded by iron railings, forms the communication
between Battersea and the upper part of Chelsea. In 1873 this bridge passed from the
descendants or friends of the original proprietors into the hands of the Albert Bridge
Company by an Act of incorporation, and under this new management certain alterations
have been cfi'ected upon it, notably in the improvement of the water-way at two points,
by throwing into one the two centre openings, and also two near the northern end of the
bridge.
At a short distance eastward of the old bridge the river is spanned by the Alberi
Suspension Bridge. This bridge, built about 1873, unites the roadway on the western
side of Battersea Park with Chelsea Embankment and Cheyne Walk, close by Cadogan
Pier. Farther eastward, the Yicxoria Bridge, another structure built on the suspension
principle, connects Yictoria Eoad, on the cast side of the park, with Chelsea Bridge Eoad
and Grosvenor Eoad.
At Battersea Else, forming the north-west extremity of Clapham Common, many
commodious villas aud suiDerior Louses liave bccu built, tliis being considered a plcasaut
and respectable neighbourhood.
On St. John's Hill, Battersca Eise, close by Clapham Junction station, is the Eoyal
Freemasons' Girls' School. This institution was founded in 1788, aud -Ras originally
located in St. George's Fields, Southwark. It was established for the purpose of
educating and maintaining the daughters of poor or deceased Freemasons, aud the school
was removed hither in 1852, The edifice, a handsome red-brick building of Gothic
architecture, was erected from the designs of Mr. Philip Ilardwickc.
In the parish of Battersca are stations on the London, Chatham, and Dover Eailway,
and also on the West London line, which crosses the river by a bridge just above
old Battersca Bridge. The Clapham Junction, used by several railways, is likewise
in this parish. Near the eastern verge of the parish, at Nine Elms, the South- Western
Eailway originally had its London terminus ; but, upon the extension of the line to the
"Waterloo Eoad in 1848, the old station was converted into a goods depot. The line,
originally called the London and Southampton Eailroad, was commenced under the
authority of an Act. of rarliamcut, which received the royal assent in 1834, and it was
fii'st opened as far as Woking Common in 1838. By their Act the company were
empowered to raise £1,000,000 in £50 shares, and a further sum of £330,000 by loan.
Since that time several additional Acts have been passed, authorising the company to
extend their line and increase theii- capital in nearly a fourfold proportion to its original
amount.
This place, anciently called 3Icre-tonc aud Mcrc-dunc, appears to have derived its
name from lying adjacent to a mere, or marsh, of which there are yet traces near the river
Wandlc, which ilows through the parish. On the south Morton is bounded by the
parishes of Mitcham and Mordon, on the east by Mitcham and Tooting, on the north by
Wimbledon, and on the west by Maldon and Kingston.
The assassination of Xenulph, or CynewuLf, King of Wessex, in 784, and the battle
between the Anglo-Saxons and the Danes in 871, in which King Ethelred was mortally
wounded, are stated to have occurred at Meretune ; but whether Merton in Surrey be the
place meant is questionable. Camden assigns the death of Kenulph to this Morton ; yet the
more probable supposition is that Meretune, or Mordcn, in Wilts, a few miles south-
eastward of Devizes, was the scene of both transactions.
The following account of this manor is given in the Doomsday Book : —
1 82 HISTORY OF SURREY.
" The King holds Merctone, which had been held by Earl Harold, It was then, as at
present, assessed at 20 hides. The arable land amounts to 21 carucates. There are
2 carucates in demesne ; and fifty-six villains, and thirteen bordars, with 18 carucates.
There is a Church; and two mills yield 60s. ; and there are 10 acres of meadow. The
wood yields 80 swine. In the time of King Edward the manor was yalued at £25 ;
afterwards at £16 ; and now at £30 ; yet he who holds it (the tenant se.) pays £43.
"In Sudwerk (Southwark) there are sixteen messuages at 18s. 2d., pertaining to this
manor.
" Orcus holds 2 hides, which always lay in this manor, though they are in another
hundred. He held this land in the time of King Edward, when it was assessed at 2 hides :
now at nothing. There is 1 carucate in demesne ; and 2 acres of meadow. It has always
been valued at 20s.
" The Bishop of Lisieux holds 2 sowlings SJiolinP^ in Kent, which lay in this
manor in the time of King Edward and King William, as the Homagers testify. He
refers to the Bishop of Bayeux, as a vouchee, and his Bailiff therefore refuses to plead." *
The principal manor, which belonged to the Crown, was given by Henry I. to a priory
of Austin canons founded here in 1115 by Gilbert Norman, Sheriff of Surrey, and it
continued to belong to that foundation until the reign of Henry YIII., when the monastic
estates were surrendered to the King. In the last year of Philip and Mary the Queen
refounded the Carthusian monastery of Shene, and by her letters-patent, dated 1558,
granted this manor, with all its rights, members, and appurtenances, to that establishment.
She survived this grant only three days, and on the final suppression of religious houses
shortly after, under her sister Elizabeth, the whole reverted to the Crown.
In March, 1609-10, James I., in consideration of the payment of £828 8s. 9d.,
transferred the manor and its appurtenances to Thomas Hunt, and his wife Joyce (with
several remainders), to be held as of the manor of East Greenwich, in free and common
socage, by fealty onlj^, and not in chief, or by knight's service. But, by other letters-
patent, dated 1616, King James granted this estate, in reversion and remainder, to Thomas
Ford, of London, gent., his heirs and assigns for ever, to be held as before. In 1668
Nicholas Philpott, Esq., of Postan, in Herefordshire, held it in right of his wife Penelope,
daughter of James Haward, Esq., of Eletherhill, co. of Pembroke. This lady survived her
husband, and having afterwards married Sir Charles Hamilton, an Irish baronet, she
became a second time a widow. She had by Mr. Philpott a son and daughter, by whom,
after, the decease of their mother, this property was sold to John Dorril, Esq., who held a
* The original is, " Ipse reclamat advocatum Eiiiscop. Baioce^s, et Propositus suns inde noluit placitaro."
MERTON. i8j
manorial court lievc in 1693. lie died in 1720, leaving several children. Ilis eldest son
and successor in this estate, John Chambers Dorril, died in 1761 ; and his widow held
this manor in dower until her death in 1784, when it descended to her grandson, John
Chambers Dorril, Esq., who in 1801 sold it to John Hilbert, Esq., of "Wandsworth.
The old manor-house was pulled down about the end of the last century. John Innes, Esq.,
is the present lord of the manor.
Mektox Prioey. — The first priory, erected by Gilbert N'orman, was of timber, and
Robert Bayle, the sub-prior of a convent of Austin canons at Iluutingdon, was appointed
to preside over it by the founder, who also bestowed on him 2 carucates of land, a mill of
60s. rent, and certain villains, or tenants in villanage. This was in 1115, but about two
years afterwards the founder was induced by Prior Payle to remove the establishment to
another site, and Avhon the new house was finished the prior and his brethren (fifteen in
number) went thither in procession, singing Balve dies. In 1121, in consideration of
£100 in silver and 6 marks of gold given by Gilbert Norman, the King granted the
entire manor of Mcretone, styled in the charter "Villa de Corona mea," with all the
customs and privileges pertaining to it, as parcel of his royal demesne, to the canons here,
to enable them to construct a church in honour of the "S^irgin Mary, &c.* About 1130
the priory was first built of stone, the foundation being laid with great solemnity by
Gilbert himself, the prior, and thirty-six brethi-en. The founder died in the same year,
and was interred in the convent, the buildings of which appear to have been completed in
1136. jSTumerous and valuable benefactions were soon made to the new establishment, and
several persons of rank became members of the fraternity.
"When Hubert de Burgh, the principal minister of Henry III., lost the favour of his
weak and prodigal master, and had been accused of numerous high crimes and mis-
demeanours, he fled for sanctuary to Merton Abbey ; and having refused to quit his place
of refuge, after being ordered to attend at a great Council, or Parliament, held at
Lambeth, the King sent letters to the Mayor of London commanding him to proceed to
Merton with the armed citizens, and bring Hubert before him either alive or dead. Put
on the representations of the Earl of Chester and the Bishop of Chichester of the great
danger to the kingdom which might arise from such a tumultuary expedition, Ilcnry
recalled the mandate. Hubert de Burgh was afterwards obliged repeatedly to seek the
protection of the Church, but he was ultimately pardoned.
In 1236 a Parliament, or ISTational Council, was held at Merton Abbey, when some
enactments were made, since termed the " Statutes of Merton." It was in this Council that
-• Dugilale, " Jlonasticon Anglicaimm," vol. vi. p. 247, edit. 1830.
184 HISTORY OF SURREY.
— tlie prelacy having proposed to introduce the canon hi-sv, founded on the imperial
constitutions, to supersede the common law of the realm — the barons made the memorable
reply, " Nolumus leges Anglite mutare " (" We will not alter the laws of England ").*
The Chronicles of Merton Abbey, which are in the Bodleian Library at Oxford, contain
the Ordinations of "William of Wykeham, Bishop of Winchester, for the government of this
convent. One of the statutes prohibits the canons from hunting, or keeping dogs for that
sport within the walls of the priory, " on pain of being restricted to a diet of bread and ale
during six holidays." The punishments are, in general, of a similar description, the
severest being a compulsory abstinence from all food but bread and water, and the slightest,
confinement to an allowance of bread, ale, and pulse. In a visitation of the priory by
Henry de Woodlock, Bishop of Winchester, the canons are censured for not attending
mass, and for going about with bows and arrows, and they are menaced with punishment
by restriction with regard to food.
Charters relating to new donations, or to confirmations of grants of lands and privileges,
were obtained by the canons of Merton, not only from Henry I., but also from Henry II,,
Eichard I., John, Henry III., Edward I., Edward II., Edward III., Eichard II.,
Henry IV., Henry V., and Henry VI. Lysons says that " the Prior of Merton had a seat
in Parliament as a mitred abbot." The celebrated Thomas \ Becket, Archbishop of
Canterbury, was educated in the priory school; also Walter de Merton, Bishop of
Eocliester and Chancellor of England, the illustrious founder of Merton College, Oxford,
who, born in this village, and dying in 1277, was buried in Eochester Cathedral.
Priors of Merton : —
l.—Eohert Eayle, appointed in 1117. 18.— TFilliam de Brokeshourn, or Bryhesborn, prior ia
2. — Robert, second prior of that name. 1307.
Z.— William. 19.— Thomas de Kenton, prior in 1335.
4.— Stephen. 20.— John de Luthjngton, or Littleton, prior in 133S.
5.— Robert, third prior so named. 21.— William Freeston, elected in 1345.
e.— Richard, prior from 1190 to 1198. 22.— Geoffrey de Chaddesley, next prior.
1.— Walter succeeded him. 23.— Robert de Wyndesore hecame prior the same year.
-Tho7nas Wllst.
2i.— Michael Kymptm, D.D., in 1403.
Q.— Ralph de Gillimj, chosen prior ia 1223. 25. — John Romeney next prior.
10.— Giles de Bourne, elected the same year. 26.— Thomas Schirfeld succeeded Eomeney.
11.— if. de Basyng. 27.— William Kent.
12.— Robert de Hexham, or de Heyham, installed in 28.— John Kingston, D.D.
1239. 29.— John Gisburne, chosen in 1485.
13.— Eustachius. 30.— William Salyng, or Seiling, elected in 1502.
14. — Gilbert de Ashe held the office of prior forty years. 31. — John Lacy, elected in 1520.
15. — Nicholas Gregory. 32. — John Ramsay, elected in 1530.
le.— Edmund de Herierd, elected in 1296. 33.— John Bowie, B.D., Fellow of All Souls College,
17. — Geoffrey deAlkmundbury, s.^^ami^<\. prior inl306. Oxford, surrendered the priory in 1538.t
* Matt. Paris, "Hist. Angl."pp. 364, 365. t Dugdale, "Mona'sticon Anglicanum," vol. vi. pp. 245, 246, edit. 1830.
MERTON.
iSs
The armorial bearings attributed to tins monaster)- by Bishop Tanner arc — 0/-, a fret
of six pieces, az.^ charged at each juncture with an caglo displayed, arcj. In the
" Aspilogia " of John Anstis, Garter King-at-Arms, there is a drawing from a fine seal
impression (represented by the annexed woodcuts) affixed to an indenture made between
Gilbert, Prior of Merton, and Alan, Prior of St. Mary Ovcrcy, in 12G4. The obverse of the
seal exhibits the Virgin Mary sitting on a throne, crowned, as Ecgina Coeli, with the
infant Jesus on her left knee ; and on each side of her a medallion, with a head : legend —
" S'lgi'll. 'Ecclcstc ^ancte iVtavic iic iHlcvi'tonn." Eeverse — St. Augustine mitred, standing
under a pointed arch, having his right hand raised, as in the act of benediction, and
SEALS OP MERTON PRICEY.
holding in his left a pastoral staff: legend — " ittunlji Hiucvnn, nos, ^uausti'nc, aubcrnn."
In the exergue —
" Augustine pater, quos instniis in Meritona,
His Cluisti mater tutrix est atque Patrona."
The estates belonging to this foundation were very numerous, and at the time of its
surrender the gross annual revenue amounted to £1,039 5s. 3d., from which £81 5s. O^d.
being deducted for reserved rents, salaries, &c., a net income remained of £957 19s. 5|d.
Among the possessions of the priory were the advowsons of many churches in different
counties.
,86 HISTORY OF SURREY.
After the resumption of tlie estates by Queen Elizabeth, that sovereign, in 1587,
granted the buildings and site of the priory, with its appurtenances, including lands in
Merton, Mordon, Mitehani, Streatham, and Long Ditton, to Gregory Lovell, Esq.,
Cofferer of the Eoyal Household, on a lease for twenty-one years, afterwards renewed for a
similar term, at an annual rent of £26 13s. 4d. In 1600 these premises were, by letters-
patent of the Queen, granted to Nicholas Zouch and Thos. Ware, as trustees for Charles
Howard, Earl of Nottingham, K.G-., High Admiral of England, to be held by knight's
service, as the fortieth part of a fee, at the same yearly rent as above : this quit-rent was after-
wards settled on Henrietta Maria, queen of Charles I., as part of her dower. In 1604 the
Earl of Nottingham sold his interest in this estate to John Spilman, Esq., and in the course
of that centui-y the property was conveyed to the several families of "Wilson, Gripe,
Pepys, &c., until William Hubbald, of Stoke near Guildford, Paymaster and Accountant of
the Navy Office, became owner in 1701. He died in 1709, and under an Act of Parliament
obtained in 1711, authorising the sale of his estates to satisfy his debts to the Crown, the
site and aiDpurtenances of the priory were sold to Sir William Phippard, Eiit., member
for the borough of Poole, Dorset, during several Parliaments in the reigns of William III.
and Queen Anne. After his death in 1723 the property became much divided among his
children and representatives, and has since passed thi-ough many hands. The immediate
site of the priory is now held by Messrs Littler, who carry on the business of silk and
woollen printing within its precincts.
During the civil wars this priory appears to have been used as a garrison, for the
Derby House Committee, in 1648, were ordered by Parliament "to make Earnham Castle
indefensible, and to secure Merton Abbey, and other places of strength in the same
county." In 1680 Merton Abbey was advertised to be let, and described as containing
several large rooms and a very fine chapel : the latter is said by Yertue, the engraver,
who visited this place about 1730, to have resembled the Saxon buildings. The priory
was situated on the banks of the river Wandlc, and occupied about 60 acres of ground : the
flint walls surrounding the premises are all that now remain. In the last century, in 1724
and 1752, two calico-printing works were established within the walls, the chapel being
used as a print-room ; and at the north-east corner a copper-mill was erected. These
works, when Lysons wrote, about 1790, employed " a thousand persons," but a great
change has since taken place, and the silk-printing has superseded the calico business.
Eectory and Advowsok. — This benefice, a rectory in the deanery of Ewell, was
appropriated to Merton Priory in the reign of Henry I. In the Yalor of Pope Nicholas
(1291) it is rated at 10 marks per annum. Edward VI., in 1552-3, in consideration of
MERTON. 187
the sum of £359, granted the rectory to Thos. Lock, and Mary Lis wife, and their heii'S ;
and it was afterwards the property of different families, until, in 17G2, Su- Thomas Chitty,
Knt., and Alderman of London, devised it by will to his daughter Eleanor, wife of George
Bond, Esq., and their issue. In his will this estate is described as consisting of " a royalty,
the church tithes, the mansion called Morton place, and two large farms named Mertou
Holts and West Barnes." During its subordination to the priory the services of this
church were performed by a temporary curate appointed by the prior, but since the
dissolution a perpetual cui'ate, appointed by the impropriator, has officiated. Most of the
land is tithe free, having belonged to the priory. The living is now a vicarage in the
diocese of Eochester. The Eegisters, commenced in 1559, are imperfect.
Incumhcnts of Merton in and since 1799 : —
1. — Clias. Frederick Bond, M.A.
2. — Thomas Lancaster. Instituted in 1814.
3. — Essex Henry Bond, B.A. Instituted in 1827.
4:.— William Bdelman, M.A. Instituted in 1848.
5. — John Frederick Fixsen, M.A. Instituted in 1863.
6.— John Cuillard ErcJc, M.A. Instituted in 1869.
The church, a long and narrow structure dedicated to St. Mary, formerly consisted of
nave and chancel, a north entrance porch, and a small spire issuing from the roof at the
west end. In 1866 the fabric was restored and reseated, and aisles, organ chamber, and
vestry were added. The walls are chiefly of flint, and may possibly be those of the church
noticed in the Doomsday Book : the doorway is siu-mounted by a Norman arch with zigzag
mouldings. Several of the windows are filled with stained glass.
Among the sepulchral memorials are those of Gregory Lovell, Esq., Cofferer of the
Household to Queen Elizabeth, who died in 1597 ; William Baynes, gent., of London,
Land Surveyor of the Customs in three reigns, ob. 171 7 ; Henry Meriton, Esq., Gentleman
of the Privy Chamber to George II., ob. 1757 ; Sir Thomas Eobiuson, Znt. and Bart.,
E.E.S., of Eokeby, co. York, ob. 1777; Eear-Admii-al Isaac Smith, of Merton Abbey,
ob. 1831, and others of his family, erected in 1842 by their affectionate relative,
Mrs. Elizabeth Cook, widow of the celebrated circumnavigator, under whom he served in
early life. In the churchyard is the tomb of Mr. William Eutlish, a native of Merton,
embroiderer to Charles II., who died in 1687. He bequeathed several tenements in this
parish, lands, &c., of the then value of £400, for apprenticing the children, whether male
or female, of poor parishioners. An addition of 4^ acres of land was awarded to the
B B 2
,88 HISTORY OF SURREY.
trustees oa the enclosure of Merton Common in 1816, and at the present time the annual
income is £187 3s. lOd. The premium given with each apprentice is from £10 to £15
and £20, the times of meeting for the purpose being on every Whit-Tuesday.
National Schools. — Mr. Eichard Thornton, of Cannon Hill, having bequeathed
£10,000 to provide parochial schools, the new building was opened in 1871. It contains
accommodation for 100 boys, 100 girls, and 100 inftmts, and houses for the teachers are
attached. The educational provision since required by law was thus conferred on the
parish by an act of individual munificence. The management is, by the scheme of the
Charity Commissioners, vested in the vicar and churchwardens ex officio (being the trustees
under the testator's will), conjointly with five other local trustees. The schools are under
Government regulation and inspection, and receive a reduced Government grant: with
this assistance and that of the children's pence the endowment nearly suffices for their
support.
Mektox Place, or Grove. — For a short time Merton became the residence of the ever-
to-bc-remembered Lord Nelson, in compliance with whose wishes a small estate here was
purchased by Lady Hamilton in ISOl, about which period he had contemplated a final
retirement from command. In a letter from Sheerness, dated in August, he says, "I
hope my dear Emma will find a house suited for my comfort ; " and in another letter,
written shortly afterwards, he entreats her to "work hard" and get for him both house
and furniture.* Nelson lived here from October, 1801, until May, 1803, when he
■quitted it to resume his command in the Mediterranean, prior to which he devised his
"capital messuage at Merton," with "its gardens, pleasure grounds, shrubbery, canal,
mote," &c., to the extent of 70 acres, in the several parishes of Merton, Wimbledon, and
Mitcham, to Lady Hamilton, then a widow (Sir William Hamilton having died in 1803),
her heirs and assigns. After the glorious battle of Trafalgar, in which Lord Nelson fell,
Lady Hamilton continued to reside here with Nelson's daughter Horatia until about 1808,
after which she was compelled by her necessities to dispose of this estate. Since that time
the house has been pulled down, and many smaU buildings have been raised upon its site,
and upon the adjacent grounds.
MORTLAKE.
On the north this parish is bounded by the river Thames, by Putney and Barnes on
the east, by Richmond and Kingston on the south, and by Zew on the west. The soil in
* Fide " Letters of Lord Nelson to Lady Hamilton," vol. i. pp. 51 and 5-1. Nelson last quitted Merton on the 13tli
of September, 1805.
MORTLAKE. 189
general consists of sand and gravel, with deep clay in the meadows bordering on the
river.*
Before the Conquest this manor belonged to the see of Canterbury, but after that event
it was, with other estates, unjustly appropriated by Odo, Bishop of Baioux. "When
Lanfranc, however, was appointed Archbishop, he asserted his right to the property in
question before an assembly of nobles and prelates held in 1071 on Pincndcn Ileath, in
Kent, and the cause being decided in his favour, Odo was compelled to make restitution.
In the Doomsday Book this manor is thus described among the lands of the Archbishop
of Canterbiuy : —
"The Archbishop holds in demesne Mortlagc. In the time of King Edward it was
assessed at 80 hides. The Canons of St. Paul's hold 8 of these hides,t which were
included in that assessment ; and they are now rated together at 25 hides. The arable
land consists of 35 carueatcs. Five carucates are in demesne; and there arc eighty
villains, and fourteen bordars, with 28 carucates. There is a church ; and sixteen bond-
men ; and two mills worth 100s. ; and 20 acres of meadow. The wood yields fifty-five swine
for pannage. — There are [belonging to this manor] in London seventeen houses, paying 52d. ;
in Southwark, four houses, paying 27d. ; and from the vill of Putelei, 20s. toll; and one
fishery not rated : this fishery Earl Harold held in Mortlage, in the time of King Edward,
and Stigand the Archbishop held it a long while in the reign of William ; yet they say
that Ilarold erected it by force in the land of Chingestune and that of the Canons of
St. Paul's. The whole manor, in the time of King Edward, was valued at £32, afterwards
at £10, and now at £38."
It is evident from the survey that the ancient manor of Mortlake was of great extent,
and, in fact, it not only comprised the present parish, but likewise those of Wimbledon
Putney, and Barnes. At a long subsequent period it was included in the manor of
Wimbledon, at which place the original church was situated ; but the principal mansion,
or manor-house, was at Mortlake. This became the occasional residence of the Arch-
bishops of Canterbui-y, and many of theii- public acts are dated from here.ij; Archbishop
* Aubrey says that the saud takeu from the bed of the Thames at this place makes an excellent cement ^^■ith a sm.iU
proportion of lime, and that it is found '• experimentally to bind stronger than any other." — Surrey, vol. i. p. 91.
+ These 8 hides formed the manor of Barnes.
t The festival of Whitsuntide was celebrated at Mortlake, in 1099, by Archbishop Ansebn, and here also he held an
ordination in the reign of Henry I. Archbishop Corboyle was confined to his liouse at Mortlake by sickness in 1136. It
was here that the death of Archbishop Peckham took place in 1292, and that of Walter Reynolds in 1327. Simon
Mepham, Sletropolitan in the early part of the reign of Edward III., having incurred the displeasure of the Pope, was
excomm\micated by him, and, retiring to Mortlake manor-house, passed many days in solitude. Nicholas Bubbe^vith,
Keeper of the Privy Seal and Lord Treasurer under Henry IV., was consecrated Bishop of London in 140G, in tlie manorial
chapel, by Archbishop Arundel, assisted by the Bishops of Winchester and Worcester. Archbishop AVarliam was
probably the last prelate who resided at Mortlake, as his immediate succes-sor, Cranmer, alienated the manor to the King.
I go HISTORY OF SURREY.
Cranmer conyeyed it, with the Wimbledon manor, &c., to Ueniy VIII. in exchange for
other lands.* In Queen Elizabeth's reign this estate was held by Sir Thomas Cecil,
who sold it to Eobert Walter, Esq., by whom, in 1594, it was conveyed to Elizabeth,
widow of Ilugh Stukeley, Esq. Her sou. Sir Thomas Stukeley, Knt., of March, Somerset,
transferred the estate to William Penn in 1607. Manning says that it appears by deeds
that Mortlake House was standing in 1663, but is supposed to have been taken down not
long after 1700.t
This parish is now in the archdeaconry of Southwark and diocese of Eochester ; and
the living is a vicarage, in the gift of the Dean and Chapter of Worcester. Down till the
recent (1876) transfer of the parish from the diocese of London to that of Eochester, the
living was only a perpetual curacy, subordinate to Wimbledon, the latter being the mother
church, though Mortlake was the primary seat of the manor. In the King's books Mortlake
is retiu'ned as " not in charge." Eormerly it was a " peculiar " of the Archbishop of Can-
terbury ; but under an order of Council made in 1845, and ratifying certain proceedings
of the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, the parishes of Mortlake and Wimbledon, St. Mary's
Newington, Barnes and Putney, all peculiars of the same prelate, were added to the see
of London from and after January 1st, 1846. J The Eegisters commence in 1599.
Among the entries of burials are those of Margaret Boui-ne, widow, April 21, 1637,
" thought to be above cue hundred years old ; " and William Bakerage, " aged 103,
October 20, 1741." §
Perpetual Citrates of Mortlake in and since 1800 : —
1. — Septimus Collinson, D.D, Licensed in 1799.
2. — Edivard Owen, B.A. Licensed in 1813.
3. — Edtvard James, M.A. Licensed in 1820.
* It is probaMe that the King occasionally dwelt here, as in 1543 he caused the chuich to he rehuUt on the spot
which it now occupies, the original site being adjacent to the manor-house. Leland, speaking of Mortlake House in his
" Cygnea Cantio," says —
" Dehinc et mortuus est lacus, superba
ViUai effigies, domusque nota."
In the commentary on this passage it is called " Villa eximie splendida." — (Itinerary, vol. ix.) The words mortuus
lacus, the dead lake, refer to a presumed etymology of the name of Mortlake. Stow, under the date 1240, records that
" Manie strange and great fishes came ashore, whereof eleven were Sea buls [seals ?], and one of large bignesse passed up
the river of Thamis, through the bridge of London vnhm-t, til he came as far as the King's house [possibly the Archbishop's
house, then in the King's possession], at Mortlake, where hee was killed." — Chronidc, p. 280.
t " Surrey," vol. iii. p. 306.
% Vide Second General Eeport from the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, ordered to be printed 15th Jime, 1847.
§ In the parish accounts is mentioned the putting up a penance seat in 1638. In 1646 was paid "for Blotting out
the Cherubims in the Church, 2s. 6d.," and for " a frame, and a whip that hangs in the church for drunkards, Is. " In
1662 £Z 7s. was paid for erecting and painting a ducking-stool for scolds.
MORTLAKE.
191
A.— Edward Aislauic Oinmannci/j'K.k.. Licensed in 1832,
5. — Fred. John Ilmvlccs Reeves^ M.A. Licensed in 1S4L
G. — Henry Hutchinson Swmn//, M.A. Licensed in 1850.
7. — -Toliii T. 3Ianlei/, M.A. Licensed in 1855.
S. — Lawrence John Harrison, M.A. Instituted in 1863.
^.—Albert Shadwcll Siiutie, M.A. Instituted in 18G5.
The church, was first erected on its present site after the exchange between Arch-
bishop Cranmer and Hemy YIIL, and from the inscription over the window above the
doorway in the tower, 'Fitint 1{, "p.^, 8. 1543, it is sui^posed to have been built by
that sovereign. The tower consists of four stories : the three lowermost are of flint and
stone in chcqucr-work, strengthened by buttresses at the angles ; the upper story is of
brick with stone dressings, and crowned by a modern lantern cupola and vaue. Within
the octangular turret on the north side is a spii'al staii-case leading to the belfry and
roof, in which are eight musical bells. The body of the church is of brick, and extremely
plain : it has been rebuilt and much enlarged at diff'ereut periods. The ceiling, which
is flat, is divided into ornamental panels, and supported by Tuscan columns. At the
east end is a Corinthian screen of oak, the central part forming a pointed arch, under
which is a painting of the Entombment of Chi-ist by Yandorgutch, who resided at
Mortlake, and by whom it was presented in 1794. The font, octagonal and of stone,
was probably given by Archbishop Bouchier, temp. Henry YL, as it includes his arms,
viz. a cross cngr. between foiu- water bougets, and the arms of the see of Canterbury, &c.,
among its facial sculptures. On the north side is a spacious vestry, and against the
walls are several sepulchral tablets, including a memorial for Sir Philip Francis,
K.G.C.B., to whom the " Letters of Junius " have been attributed. He died in 1818,
and was buried in this church.
The memory of Ilenry Addiugton, Yiscount Sidmouth, Speaker of the Ilouse of
Commons from 1789 until 1801, and subsequently President of the Council, Lord Privy
Seal, and Secretary of State for the Home Department, is recorded on a handsome sarco-
phagus of white marble on the north side of the communion-table.* He was the eldest
son of Dr. Addington, physician to George III., Avith whom he became so great a favourite
as to acquii'c the appellation of the King's Friend. Ho was born in 1757, and dying
at the 'Wiiite Lodge, Eichmond Park, in 1844, was interred in Mortlake Churchyard,
where a low-ridged tomb, surrounded by ii'on railings, has been raised over his burial
vault. Another elegant monument (beneath the former), representing a dying female
* The inscrirtion states that " his body was deposited in a vault beneath the church," but this is erroneous.
102 HISTORY OF SURREY.
on a couch, with other small attendant figures in high relief, and of white marble, com-
memorates the virtues and decease of Ursula Mary, Viscountess Sidmouth, daughter and
coheiress of Leonard Hammond, Esq., of Cheam, who died in 1811.
On the east wall, southward, is affixed an elaborate monument of different marbles
for the Honourable Francis Coventry, a son of Thomas, Lord Coventry, Lord Keeper of
the Great Seal in the reign of Charles I. At the sides are full-sized statues of a male
and female, supporting a heavy pediment and funeral urn. The inscription, partly in
Latin, states that he was born at Crombe, Worcester, in 1613, and died at Mortlake
in 1699. Eobert Devenish, Esq., Norroy Zing-at-Arms, who died in 1704, is com-
memorated, with others of his family, by an oval tablet at the north side of the organ
gallery.
Sir John Barnard, Znt., Alderman, and representative of London in six successive
Parliaments, was buried in the chancel in 1764. He was a philanthropist and true
patriot ; and he is noticed in connection with the " Man of Eoss " by Pope in the
Epilogue to his "Satires." He was Lord Mayor in 1737, and his conduct iu the civic
chair excited great admiration. ""■
Another distinguished patriot and alderman of London, namely, Mr. John Barber,
lies buried in the churchyard, towards the enlargement of which, in 1723, he had given
a piece of ground. He was born within the City in 1675, and though of humble birth,
and bred a printer, he obtained such influence by his good conduct and assiduity as to
be chosen its chief magistrate in 1733. His gains from trade were considerable, as he
was warmly patronised by the Tories of his day ; but much of his ojjulence was derived
from realised speculations in South Sea stock. With a portion of his wealth he bought
an estate at East Sheen, which long afterwards became the seat of Sir Philip Francis.
He was a Jacobite, and a zealous Tory, in consequence of which he became intimate with
Lord Bolingbroke, Dean Swift, and Pope, to each of Avhom he bequeathed a legacy. He
died in 1740-41. In the inscription on his tomb he is characterized as a " constant bene-
factor to the poor, true to bis principles in Church and State, an uj^right magistrate in
the most corrupt times, and greatly instrumental in defeating a scheme of a general
excise" in the j^ear of his mayoralty.
* This eminent man, 'bom at Reading in 1685, was originally one of tlie Society of Friends ; but becoming a member
of the Established Church from com-iction, he was baptized by Bishop Compton. He distinguished himself by his continued
exertions to promote the happiness of his fellow-citizens and the prosperity of his country, particularly in his successful
opposition to the Excise Scheme of Sir Eobert AValpole, and by his standing forward at the head of the merchants for the
support of public credit during the Scotch rebellion in 1745. As a tribute to his wtues his statue was erected in the
Royal Exchange, and it is recorded as an instance of his modesty that he could never afterwards be prevailed on to enter
that edifice.
MORTLAKE.
'93
Christ Chukch was built at East Sheen, in the south-'west part of the parish, in 18G4,
as a chapel-of-ease to the parish church. Large new National Schools were built in
1869, and a Board School has recently been opened in the Lower Eichnioud Koad. A
vicarage was also erected in 186G.
Among the several charities of this parish may be noticed the foundation of a charity
school about 1670, towards supporting which the munificent Edward Colston, a Eristol
merchant, who in his lifetime expended more than £70,000 in charitable gifts and
institutions, bequeathed in 1720 the annual sum of £45 for twelve years. He resided
for some time in an ancient house at Mortlake, said to have been once the abode of
Oliver Cromwell, and thence called Cromwell House.* A red-brick mansion, of Tudor
architecture, now occupies the site of Cromwell House, which was pulled down about
1860. This building is the residence of James "Wigan, Esq.
In Sheen Lane is an Independent meeting-house, erected in 1716, and since enlarged.
Numerous legacies and donations, producing a considerable yearly income, have been made
for the poor of Mortlake.
The manor of East Sheen and "West Hall, anciently included in that of Mortlake
and Wimbledon, was enfranchised in the reign of Henry VII., when in the possession
of the Welbecks. It afterwards passed by sale and otherwise to the families of Brace-
bridge, Whitfield, Juxon, Kay, and Taylor. Edward Taylor, Esq., who died in 1786,
bequeathed part of this estate to his widow, with remainder to his son, and the other
parts to his thi-ee daughters. In 1808 a court was held in the names of Mrs. Tajdor
and her daughters, but the manorial property has been since divided. East Sheen Is
a pleasant hamlet, situated on elevated ground away from the Thames, and bordering on
Eichmond Park.
The memorable law proceedings to determine the right of a public way thi'ough
Eichmond Park, of which some account has been ah-eady given, f were commenced from
the proceeds of a subscription originating about 1753 among the inhabitants of East
Sheen, who had been debarred from that privilege, fii-st by Su- Eobert Walpole, when
Eanger of the park, and afterwards by the Princess Amelia, daughter of George II. The
successful result was chiefly owing to the energy and perseverance of Mr. John LcM'is, a
brewer, of Eichmond. He died in 1792 ; but his memory is and will ever be held in
* !Mr. Colston died in 1721, but liis remains were removed to Bristol, his native city (wlicre ho had founded an
extensive school), and interred in All Saints' Church, in which is a monumental inscription recording Ms numerous bene-
factions. The boys educated in the Bristol School wear a brass dolphin on their breasts, in commemoration, aa it is
reported, of his preservation from being dro-mied at sea by a dolphin stopping a hole in the ship on his homeward
voyage from the Indies.
t See under Kingston Hundred, vol. ii. pp. 246-7.
,94 HISTORY OF SURREY.
respect in the neighbourliood. Nearly 640 acres of Elclimond Park are in the parish of
Mortlake. They include the house and grounds called the "White Lodge, belonging to
the Crown, and now the residence of H.S.H. the Prince of Teck.
About 1619 a manufactory of fine tapestry was set up at Mortlake by Sir Francis
Crane, Knt., under the patronage of King James, who, according to Fuller, " gave him
£2,000 to build therewith a house for that purpose." * Charles I. was equally favourable
to the art, and in 1625, within two months after his accession, he granted an annual
pension of £2,000 to Sir Francis Crane for ten years; one moiety in satisfaction of a debt
of £6,000 for three suits of gold tapestry, delivered for his use (powr trois assortmens de
Tapisse7'ies d'or qu'il a livrees pour notre usage), and the other a gift for the advancement
and maintenance of " the work of tapestries, which the said Sir Francis lately brought
into this kingdom." The work first produced had been an imitation of old patterns; but
in 1623 the celebrated Francis Cleyne, a native of Bostock, in Lower Saxony, was engaged
as limner, and he *' gave designs, both in history and grotesque, which carried those works
to singular perfection." f His merit was duly appreciated by the King, who first made him
a free denizen, and soon after gave him a pension of £100 per annum for life. J Five of
Eaffaelle's cartoons were sent to Mortlake by Charles I. to be copied in tapestry by Crane.
After the decapitation of the King, the " Tapestry House," formerly surrendered to
him by Sir Eichard Crane, brother of Sir Francis, then deceased, was seized as the property
of the Crown, and retained during the Protectorate. After the Eestoration, as we are
informed by Walpole, Charles II., having a design to revive the manufacture at Mort-
lake, sent for Verrio to England; but changing his mind, he consigned Windsor
to the pencil of that artist ; and the tapestry works, thus deprived of royal patronage,
fell into complete desuetude.§
Dr. John Dee, one of the most celebrated cultivators of natural philosophy in the
* Fuller, " Worthies," vol. ii. p. 353, Nicliols's edit.
+ Eymer, " Fredera," vol. viii. p. 43, 3rd edit. This must allude to the superior kind of tapestry manufactured by
Crane, for the art itseK of tape.stry-wcaving was brought into England hy Wm. Sheldon, Esq., about the end of the reign
of Henry VIII. {Vide Dugdale's "Warwickshire," in stemmate Sheldon, and Gough's "British Topography," vol. ii. pp.
309—311.)
X Rymer, " Fcedera," vol. viii. pp. 69 and 82. In 1625 the King granted to the Lady Frances, Duchess-Dowager of
Richmond and Lennox, and Sir Francis Crane, and their executors, the exclusive privilege for seventeen years of making
copper farthings for general circulation, at the yearly rent of 100 marks, payable into the Exchequer ! (Id. pp. 104 — 106.)
§ In the survey made in 1651 by the Parliamentary Commissioners, the extent of the premises at Mortlake is stated
to be 115i feet in length and 84 feet in breadth, and their value per annum .£50, independently of the limner's tenement
standing opposite, which is valued at £9 per annum. The Tapestry House, stated by Lysons to " have occupied the site
of Queen's Head Court," consisted of three stories, the lowermost being in the occupation of different workmen : on the
second story " one great working-room, 82 feet in length, and 20 in breadth, wherein are twelve looms for making
tapestry work of all sorts," and one other room, about half as long, with six looms, and another great room called the
Limner's Room : in the third story a long gallery divided into three rooms, Ashmole, in a manuscript preserved at
sixteenth century, was long a resident at Mortlake, which was also the place of his death and
interment. He was devoted to the study of the occult sciences, astrology, alchemy, and
cabalistic philosophy. But it is evident from his works, still extant both in print and
manuscript, that his attention Avas by no means confined to such visionary pursuits. He
was the sou of Eowland Dee, Gentleman Sewer to Henry VIII., and was born in London
in 1527. Diu'ing his residence at Mortlake, where he was regarded by the common
people as a sorcerer, and by the higher classes of society as a learned philosopher, the
Queen occasionally visited him, aud she bestowed on Iiim various donations ; but he lived
extravagantly, and Avas often involved in difficulties. He died in 1608.
John Partridge, a native of East Sheen, another astrologer, who died here in 1715, is
commemorated by a brief Latin inscription on a fiat stone.
PUTNEY.
This is an extensive parish on the southern bank of the Thames, which divides it from
Fulham, in Middlesex, on the north. On the east it is bounded by Wimbledon and
Wandsworth, on the south by Kingston, aud on the west by Mortlake aud Barnes. In the
Doomsday Book the vill, or village, is mentioned under the name Putelci, probably by mis-
take of the iN'orman scribe ; in subsequent records, down to the sixteenth century, it is styled
Puttcnheth, or Pottenheth ; and since that period it has been known by its present appellation.
Though this is a distinct parish, the church was originall)' only a chapel to Wimbledon, and
the whole of Putney lies Avithiu that manor. The soil is principally sand and gravel.
In the account of Mortlage (Mortlake) in the Doomsday Book reference is made to
a ferry at Putdci, which yielded 20s. a year. Here, also, in the time of Earl Harold, was
a valuable fishery, the ownership of which has descended with the manor. In 1663 it was
let for an annual rent of tliree best salmon which should be caught in March, April, and
May ; but this rent Avas subsequently commuted for money.* Anciently this place was a
considerable thoroughfare, it being usual for persons, on theii- way from London to the west
of England, to go as far as Putney by water. In the Wardrobe Accounts of 28 Edward I.,
Oxford, says that Dr. Dee dwelt in a house near the waterside, a little westward from the church, and that Sir Francia
Crane erected his huildiugs for working of tapestry (stUl in use in 1673) upon the ground whereon Dr. Dee's laboratory
aud other rooms for that use stood. (MS. Ashm. Museum, No. 1788, fol. 149.) In a survey of Mortlake taken in 1617
Dr. Dee's then late residence is called an " ancient house."
* In 1717, when the estates of Sir Theodore Janssen, lord of Wiiuhledou (fonnerly one of the directors of the South
Sea Company), were sold, the fishery was let for £6 yearly, which rent was afterwards increased to .£8, on a lease that
expired in 1800. Sturgeons are occasionally taken in this part of the Thames, and sometimes, though rarely, a porpoise.
These are regarded as royal fishes, and being claimed by the Lord Mayor iinder a grant from tlie Crown, the C.-hcmieu
are obliged to deliver them, as soon as taken, to the water-bailiff. (See Lysons, "Surrey," vol. i. p. 426, and Blount'a
" Law Dictionary," 1670, fol. art. Koyal Fishes.)
c c 2
,96 HISTORY OF SURREY.
published by the Society of Antiquaries, are entries of payments to the ferryman of
Putney for conveying the King and royal family to Fulham and to Westminster.*
In 12 George I. an Act of Parliament was obtained for the building of a bridge of ^yood
across the Thames from Putney to Fulham ; and in 1 George II. an amended Act was passed,
by which the trustees were empowered to grant the shares in this undertaking in fee ;
thus the subscribers were constituted freeholders of Surrey and Middlesex. Thirty persons
advanced the sum of £740 each on those terms, and purchased for £8,000 the ferries,
which had yielded to the proprietors £400 a year. The Duchess of Marlborough, who
then held the manor of Wimbledon, received £364 10s. for her interest in the ferry ; and
the Bishop of London £23 for his interest on the Middlesex side, as lord of the manor of
Pulham, in addition to which he reserved for himself and his household, and his and their
successors, the privilege of passing the bridge toll frecf Some attempts to increase the space
between the piles and give height to this ugly structure were made in consequence of the
steamboats conveying passengers from London to Putney and Kew. In 1870 two of the
spans or openings were thrown into one, and since then three have been converted into
one, so that there are now but twenty-three openings instead of twenty-six as originally.
The length of the bridge is about 800 feet. Since the Eeform Act of 1832 the original
shares have been subdivided to a great extent, as one-twentieth part of one of these
shares, producing above £4 yearly, gives a vote both for Surrey and Middlesex.
In 1776 a house was erected on Putney Heath by David Hartley, Esq. (son of
Dr. Hartley, the celebrated metaphysician), for the purpose of proving the efficacy of a
method which he had invented for securing buildings from destruction by fire. His plan
consisted in laying thin sheets of iron and copper between double floors, and thus, by pre-
venting the ascent of the heated air from the lower to the upper rooms, efi'ectually checking
the process of combustion. The house thus constructed was the scene of repeated experi-
ments, which were witnessed by the King and Queen, several members of Parliament, the
Lord Mayor, and some of the Aldermen of London. Many persons on those occasions
remained in perfect seciu'ity in a room over that in which a fire was burning with great
violence. By the side of the turnpike road, near the house, an obelisk, with inscriptions,
* In 42 Elizabeth, at a court held for the manor of Wimbledon, it was ordered that if any -waterman should neglect
to pay a halfpenny for every stranger, and a farthing for every inhabitant of Putney, crossing the river, to the proprietor
of the ferry, he should forfeit to the lord 2s. 6d. In 1629 the lord of the manor received 15s. a year for the ferry. In 1656
General Lambert, who then held the manor, gave to the Company of Free Watermen of Putney a small plot of ground
near the water, for the purpose of erecting a shed for their boats.
t The sum of J62 was directed to be annually divided among the widows and children of the poor watermen of
Putney and Fulham, as a compensation to those men for being restricted from plying for fares on Sundays ; and on this
account an additional toll of one halfpenny is paid by foot-passengers on Sundays. The mere expense of erecting the
bridge was about £16,000.
FUTNEl. 197
was erected at the expense of the Corporatiou of Loudon, on which is recorded a public
grant of £2,500 to Mr. Hartley, towards defraying the charge of his experiments. Both
the house and obelisk are still standing, but Mr. Hartley's invention has never been
utilised.
Putney Heath, like Wimbledon Common, which it adjoins, has been the scene of many
duels. Here, in 1652, a fatal combat took place between George, sixth Lord Chandos, and
Col. Henry Compton, in which the latter was killed. After a long imprisonment, both
Lord Chandos and his second. Lord Arundel, were brought to trial in 1054, and found
guilty of manslaughter. In 1798 the Prime Minister, William Pitt, and George Tierney,
M.P. for Southwark, fought here on a Sunday afternoon, but the issue was without blood-
shed. In 1809 a duel took place on the heath bet\veen Lord Castlercagh and George
Canning, both Secretaries of State, in which the latter was wounded in the thigh.*
During the war between Charles I. and the Parliament some transactions requiring
notice took place at Putney. When the Eoyalists marched to Kingston after the
skii'mish with the Parliamentary forces at Brentford in 1642, the Earl of Essex, who
commanded the latter, having resolved to piu'sue the retreating army, a bridge of boats
was constructed between Fulham and Putney to facilitate the passage of his troops, and
forts were ordered to be constructed on either side of the river. -f
In 1647, after the sm-render of the King had occasioned a suspension rather than a
termination of the civil war, the anti-Eoyalists became divided among themselves, the
Parliament, or Presbyterian party, being opposed to the army and to the Independents.
The partisans of the King endeavoured to take advantage of this state of affairs ; and
Fairfax and Cromwell having drawn together their forces to overawe the metropolis,
Putney was fixed on for their head-quarters, as being a situation from which they could
both watch the measures of their Parliamentary opponents and observe the proceedings of
the King, then a captive at Hampton Court. The army removed from Kingston to Putney
on the 27th of August in the above year : during its continuance here the chief officers
held theii- councils in the parish church, sitting round the communion-table, and had their
lodgings at the houses of the principal inhabitants.^
* Many duels have also been fought in Battersea Fields ; and there, in March, 1829, his Grace the Duke of Wellington
and the Earl of Winchebea had a meeting. The Earl, who had made a gross charge against the Duke of an insidious
design to " introduce Popery into every department of the State," received his adversary's fire, and then, after discharging
his pistol in the air, tended a written apology to his Grace in the terms which the latter had originally proposed.
t Faulkner, in his " History of Fulham," says that the tUt du pont, on the Putney side, was still visible in 1812.
X Vide " Perfect Occurrences," Oct. 8, 1647. Before they proceeded to debate they usually heard a sermon from
Hugh Peters, or some other favourite preacher. Several of their deliberations related to the payment of arrears to the
army, and threatening declarations were repeatedly addressed to the Parliament from hence on that subject. On the 8th
of October they gave audience in the church to one Gifthiel, a High German prophet. After various debates, on the 1st
igS
HISTORY OF SURREY.
Putney Park, styled Mortlake Park in some old records, and extending into both
parishes, was reserved to the Crown by Henry YIII. Queen Mary appointed Sir Kobert
Tyrwhit Keeper of Putney Park and Master of the Game. Sir Charles Howard, who held
that office under James I., had an allowance of £15 a year to buy hay for the deer. In
1627 Charles I. granted the park, in fee-simple, to Sir Eichard Weston, and in the following
year appointed him to the office of Lord Treasurer, which he held until his decease in
1635, when, by the King's command (as appears by the " Stafford Letters "), the whole
court wore mourning for him " during one day."
From the time of obtaining his grant of the park Sir Eichard made the adjoining
hamlet a summer residence, and the house at Eoeharapton Grove occupies the site of his
mansion.* In 1633 he was created Earl of Portland, and his son Jerome, who succeeded
him, sold the house and park for £11,300 to Sir Thomas Dawes, by whom they were first
let and subsequently sold to Chi'istiana, Countess of Devonshii*e, a woman of much talent
and historic celebrity.f Her son William, thu'd Earl of Devonshire, and father of the
first duke, held this property until his decease in 1684; but after the death of the
Countess in 1689 it was sold to Sir Jeffery Jefferys, an alderman of London, who died at
this place in 1707. It had afterwards different proprietors, until it was purchased by the
of November they completed their propositions for the future government of the kingdom, which were sent to the King
at Hampton Court. On the 13th of November, two days after the King had escaped to the Isle of Vfight, the army
removed from Putney. (Lysons, " Environs," vol. i. p. 408.)
* In 1632 a chapel was consecrated in the mansion of Lord Weston (as he was then styled) by William Laud, Bishop
of London, with the consent of Lord Wimbledon, impropriator of the great tithes, and the curates of Wimbledon and
Putney, who were all present on the occasion. It was dedicated to the Holy Trinity, and assigned to be a chapel for ever
for the inhabitants present and future of that house. This chapel was ornamented with a painting representing the Last
Supper, supposed to be the work of Frederic Zucchero. The building was pulled down in 1777 by Thomas Parker, Esq.,
and a new chapel erected about 100 yards from the house, and the picture just mentioned was placed in it as an altar-
piece. In the old chapel Jerome Weston, the son of the Lord Treasurer, was married in 1632 to the Lady Frances
Stuart, daughter of the Duke of Lennox, the ceremony being performed by Bishop Laud. Several of their children were
baptized in the same chapel.
t This lady, daughter of Edwaril, Lord Bruce, of Kinloss, was related to James I., who gave her in marriage to the
Earl of Devonshire, with a fortune of £10,000, himself being present at the ceremony. After the death of her husband
in 1628, she obtained the wardship of her son, and during his minority acted with so much skill and prudence as to
extricate the family estates from " a vast debt and thirty law-suits, having ingratiated herself so far with the sages of the law
that King Charles jestingly said to her, ' Madam, you have all my judges at your disposal.' " She was also distinguished
as the patroness of men of wit and learning, who frequently assembled at her house at Eoehampton. The celebrated
philosopher Hobbes was her son's tutor, and lived much in her family ; Waller and other poets celebrated her praises ;
and William Herbert, Earl of Pembroke, addressed to her a volume of poems, afterwards published and dedicated to her
by Dr. Donne. Her second son, Col. Charles Cavendish, fell in the service of Charles I., and the Countess herself acted
with so much zeal in behalf of the Royalists as to incur the danger of being sent to the Tower. It is asserted in " ColUns's
Peerage" that she was instrumental in urging the Earl of Holland to that rash enterprise, in 1648, which terminated so
disastrously for himself and others. She became, however, eminently useful to the Royalists when concerting measures
for the Restoration, and entered into a secret correspondence with General Monk and other friends of the Crown to
expedite that event. Charles II. showed a grateful sense of her services by frequently visiting her at Roehampton, in
company with the Queen-Dowager and the royal family, -ndth whom she enjoyed much intimacy until her decease
in 1675.
late Sir Joshua Vanneck, Bart., afterwards Lord Huntiiigfield, an eminent merchant ol
London, who in 1777 married Maria, second daugliter of Andi-ew Thompson, Esq., of
Eoehampton. He pulled down the old mansion, and erected an elegant villa from
designs by Wyatt ; he also formed at the termination of the lawn a fine sheet of water,
supplied by pipes from a conduit on Putney Heath.
Adyowson, &c. — The benefice of Putney is a perpetual curacy, with a reserved stipend
of £40 per annum, payable out of the great tithes by the lessee of the rectory. This,
formerly a peculiar of the Archbishop of Canterbury, was annexed by order of Council to
the see of London on January 1st, 1846.* In 1876 it was transferred to the diocese of
Eochester. The following instances of longevity occur in the Parish Eegister, which
commences in 1622 : —
Elizabeth Fisher, hiiried June 16, 1662, " ageil a hundredth years."
John James Dartiquenave, buried September 25, 1709, "aged 99 years and upwards.'-
Catherine Farmer, buried November 8, 1747, aged 101 years.
Sarah Watts, "from the workhouse, buried, said to be 104, Jan. 18, 1766."
Ann Williams, "from the workhouse, aged 109, buried May 7, 1772."
Mary Ceasley, aged 100, buried November 18, 1787.
Eleanor Shadwick, aged 99, was buried January 2, 1808.
Perpetual Curates of Putney in and since 1800 : —
1. — Thomas Hughes, M.A. Licensed in 1788.
I.—Johii Winglield, D.D. Licensed in 1804.
3. — James Meakin^ M.A. Licensed in 1805.
4. — John Francis Seymour Fleming St. John, M.A. Licensed in 1811.
5. — John Fleming St. John, B.A. Licensed in 1813.
6. — Henry St. Andreio St. John, M.A. Licensed in 1821.
7. — William TomJcyns Briggs, M.A. Licensed in 1833.
8. — Christopher Thomas Robinson, M.A. Licensed in 1835.
'd.—The Hon. Robert Henley, M.A. Instituted in 1861.
Putney Chuech, nearly adjoining the bridge, and dedicated to St. Mary, was built as a
chapel-of-ease to Wimbledon some time prior to 1302, when an ordination was held in it
by Archbishop Winchelsea. The body of the church was entirely rebuilt about 1836 from
the designs of Mr. Edward Lapidge ; but the tower, a massive structure of stone, and
embattled, was left standing, but properly repaired. This consists of four stories, and
contains a clock and eight bells : in the second story, over the west entrance, is a handsome
pointed-arched window of four principal lights, with tracery in the heading. The new
* See Mortlake above, p. 190.
200 HISTORY OF SURREY.
work is of yellow brick, with stone dressings : on eticli side, between buttresses, are five
large Tudor-arched windows of thi-ee divisions each : the parapets are plain. The interior
consists of nave, aisles, and chancel, the latter being terminated by a pointed-arched
window of five lights, eniiched with stained glass, with numerous divisions above in the
perpendicular style.* The aisles are separated from the nave by light piers, with attached
shafts, from which spring obtuse-pointed arches : the roof is of oak, the rafters being
supported by brackets springing from corbels of angels bearing shields. On the south of
the chancel is a small vestry, and on the north is the elegant little chapel erected in the
Tudor style by Bishop West, which was removed from the east end of the south aisle into
its present position during the rebuilding of the church. It has a groined roof, euriched
with fanlike tracery, interspersed with the Bishop's arms, viz, Arg. a chev. sal. between
thi-ee roses, gu. slipped vei% impaled with those of the see of Ely.f Its eastern window
consists of three lights, embellished with scriptural subjects in finely executed stained
glass, chiefly old, viz. St. Mary Magdalene anointing Christ, the Eaising of liazarus from
the Tomb, and the Good Samaritan. These enrichments were presented to the church in
1845 by Dr. Charles Thomas Longley, Bishop of Eipon, in commemoration of his deceased
mother, Elizabeth Longley, who during many years resided in this parish.
In 1877 the flooring of the chancel was relaid with encaustic tiles, and the body of the
fabric reseated with open benches in place of the antiquated and unsightly pews. Other
interior restorations have since been carried out from the designs of Mr. A. Blomfield. The
north, south, and west galleries are spacious. A handsome pulpit of mahogany stands at
the east end of the nave. The font is octagonal, and of freestone : in its basin are a small
Gothic font and cover of biscuit, or artificial stone.
Many persons of eminence lie interred in this chui'ch, and several of the old memorials
deserve notice. Among these are the mural monuments, now in the lower part of the
tower, of Lady Katharine Palmer and Kichard Lusher, Esq., of Putney. Both are of
marble, and architecturally designed, the inscriptive tablets being arranged between small
Corinthian columns supporting pediments surmounted by shields of arms, and otherwise
decorated. Lady Palmer, wife of Sir Anthony Palmer, K.B., died in 1613, and was
buried in the chancel, where this monument was originally afiixed.ij: Mr. Lusher died in
* The cost of rebiuldiug the cburcli was defraj^ed by a rate on the parishioners, aided hy voluntary subscriptions
and a grant of £430 from the Incorporated Society, by which means tlie number of sittings declared free and unappro-
priated was increased to 400.
t An " Account of Bishop West's Chapel," by J. G. Jackson and G. T. Andrews, was published in 1825 in 4to.
t Lady Palmer was married, secondly, to Thomas Knyvett, Esq., a descendant from John Knyvett, Knt., Lord Chief
Justice and Lord Chancellor of England in the above reign. She. died in 1623. In the Latin inscription to her memory,
PUTNEY. 201
1615. His memorial, formerly in the south aisle, was erected by Mary, his widow,
daughter of George Scott, Esq., a descendant of John Scott, Lord Chief Justice of England
in the reign of Edward III.
Against the south wall of the chancel is a sarcophagus tablet of white marble, sui--
mounted by a funeral urn and drapery neatly sculptured, in commemoration of Sir John
Dick, Bart., who died at Mount Clare, Eoehampton, in 1804, and was buried at East Ham,
Essex. Whilst English Consul at Leghorn during a period of twenty-two years he
rendered some important services to the Russian fleet, and was, in approbation of his
conduct, created a Knight of the Order of St. Anne by the Empress Catherine II.
Over the vestry door in the chancel is placed a portion of the old monument of Sir
Thomas Dawes, of Putney Park, who died in 1655, and whose relict, Dame Judith Dawes,
" slept here w*^ her Hvsband " in 1657.
In the churchyard are many tombs in commemoration of former inhabitants of this
parish. Another and more extensive cemetery, which occupies about 4 acres on the
upper road to Eichmond, was consecrated in 1763, the ground having been given by the
Eev. Eoger Pettiward, D.D., whose family had an estate here. It contains many hand-
some monuments, that attracting most notice being a sarcophagus of white marble in
memory of Eobert Wood, Esq., the Eastern traveller.
St. John's Church, in St. John's Eoad, Putney Hill, is a large stone edifice of Gothic
design, and was built in 1859. All Saints' Church, on Putney Lower Common, was
built from the designs of Mr. G. E. Street, E.A., and consecrated in 1874, The Dissenters
have many places of worship here.
Among the several charities belonging to Putney is an almshouse in Wandsworth
Lane, founded and endowed for twelve poor unmarried persons by Sir Abraham Dawes,
Bart., and dedicated to the Holy Trinity, in the reign of Charles II. The income has
been much increased by benefactions. It was intended for both sexes, but for many
years only females have been admitted. These almshouses have been recently rebuilt.
Here, also, is a school founded for the maintenance and education of twenty Avatcr-
men's sons, with the proceeds of a bequest made in 1684 by Mr. Thomas Martyn, a
merchant, saved from drowning by a Putney fisherman. The boys of the neighboiu-ing
parishes are eligible to be chosen, should those of Putney be insufficient in number.
Opposite to this school, near the Thames, formerly stood the College of Civil Engi-
■fay her second husband, the following expression occurs : — " Vale, Vale, Maria ! nullum de te dolorem, nisi ex acerbissimii
tuS morte, accepi." This had possibly been read by Pope, whose epitaph on the son of the Lord Chancellor Harcourt
includes a similar expression : —
" Nor gave his father grief but when he died."
202 HISTORY OF SURREY.
NEERS, founded by a subscription of the nobility and others about 1839, for the pui'pose
of conferring a superior education on the sons of respectable persons in the engineering,
mathematical, and mechanical sciences. The college was broken up in 1857, and the
fine old mansion pulled down. Two ranges of houses, known as " The Cedars," from
the old cedar-trees which formerly flourished there, now occupy its site. National
Schools have been built, aud since enlarged. A school-house and model lodging-houses
haye been built on Lower Common.
Lime Groye, formerly the seat of Lady St. Aubyn, relict of Sii- George Aubyn, Bart.,
stood at the base of Putney Hill, It deriyed its name from a groye of limes which
formed an avenue to the house. The grounds still possess many umbrageous walks,
which opened at intervals to beautiful views of the river Thames and the sui'rounding
coimtry. The house was one of those thoroughly English mansions erected for convenience
and comfort rather than for ostentation and show. The apartments were spacious and
lofty, and contained a rich store of pictures and articles of vii-tu : among the former were
many pieces by Opie, of whom Sir John St. Aubyn, the father of Sir George, was the early
friend and constant patron. This house was for some time the home of Edward Gibbon,
the historian. He was born here on the 27th of April (O.S.), 1737; his baptism, and
that of his five younger brothers and a sister, may be seen recorded in the Parish Eegister,
The site of Lime Grove is now occupied by modern villas.
On Putney Heath, at a little distance from the fire-proof building, is Bowling-Green
House, which derived its appellation from a fashionable place of entertainment that existed
here in the early part of the last century, and was famous for its public breakfasts and
evening assemblies in the summer season. This estate was some time occupied by the
Eight Hon. William Pitt, aud here that statesman breathed his last on January 23rd,
1806.
The mansion of John Temple Leader, Esq., formerly M.P. for "Westminster, is situated
on the ascent of Putney Hill, at the top of which is the handsome Elizabethan residence of
Colonel and Lady North.
The principal houses on Putney Heath, most of which are owned by members of the
aristocracy, possess a fine prospect over a wide range of country, comprising the Thames
and a great portion of Middlesex, extending from Harrow to the sister eminences of
Hampstead and Highgate. On Putney Heath is a reservoir in connection with the Chelsea
Water Works. The water is transmitted hither from the company's works at Thames
Ditton, and is conveyed thence by pipes down through the main street of Putney, and so
across the Thames by an aqueduct which spans the river on massive cylindrical supports a
few yards aboA'c tlie old bridge. The annual boat race between the rival crews of the
Oxford and Cambridge Universities takes place at PutueJ^ The starting-point is near the
iron aqneduct of the Chelsea "Water Works Companj', and Mortlake is the goal : the
conrse is about 4^ miles. The time occupied in the race has varied from about twenty-
one to twenty-five minutes.
Owing to its healthy situation Putney is a favourite spot for charitable institutions.
The most important of these is the Eoyal HosriTAL for Incueables, situated on the summit
of West Hill. This institution was founded in 1854 by the efforts of the late Dr. Andrew
Eeed. It was established for the lifelong benefit of those persons above the pauper class
suffering from incurable maladies. To persons haA'ing a home, but without the means of
support, a pension of £20 a year is given. In 1803 the building now occupied as the
Hospital was purchased, together with the freehold of 24 acres of land surrounding it.
The edifice, formerly a large and distinguished family residence, was extended by the
addition of two wings, and now affords accommodation for 200 inmates. It contains on
an average about 150 patients, whilst upwards of 300 are in reccii^t of pensions from the
charity at their own homes. This institution is uncndoAved, and therefore dependent on
public charity.
Near the western extremity of the heath is Eoehampton, a hamlet to Putney, which,
from its pleasant situation and close vicinity to Eichmond Park, has long been a favoiirite
place of retirement for persons of rank and affluence. Many good houses have in conse-
quence been built here during the last and present centuries, and the population has been
much increased, though not to that extent as in other suburban districts where manu-
factures have been introduced.
On the west side of Eoehampton Lane a small chapel-of-easo to Putney, consisting
only of nave, chancel, and south porch, was erected in 1842, from the designs of
Mr. Benjamin Ferrey, in the early English or lancet style of architecture. In the
following year it was consecrated by the Archbishop of Canterbury, and dedicated to the
Holy Trinity. In 1845 the hamlet of Eoehampton was formed into an ecclesiastical
parish from the civil parish of Putney, and in 1862 the chapel of the Holy Trinity was
enlarged, so as to serve as the parish church. The living is a vicarage, in the gift of the
Bishop of Eochester.
EoEHAJiPTOK HorsE, the seat of the Leslie-Melville family, is a large mansion of red
brick, with stone di-essings, built for Thomas Gary, Esq., about 1712.* The saloon was
* In the " Vitruvius Britannicus," vol. i., is an elevation of the cMef front, which was of a very funciful character,
and said (on the plate) to be " Invented hy Thomas Archer, Esq.," whom Walpole calls the "groom-porter." Mr. Archer
also designed the Chm-ch of St. John, near Millbaut, at "Westminster, in a style yet more absurd than the above.
dd2
jo^ HISTORY OF SURREY.
painted by Sir James Thornhill. The ceiling represents a Festival of the Gods on Olympus :
the colouring is vivid, and the whole is in good preservation. The lawn, shi-ubberies, and
pleasure grounds are extensive and judiciously disposed.
Mount Clare, formerly the seat of Admiral Sir Charles Ogle, Bart., was built in 1772
by George Clive, Esq., who bought the estate at the rate of £300 per acre, on account of
the fine situation of the grounds, which command beautiful views over Eichmond Park,
&c., and in compliment to his relation, Lord Clive, then proprietor of Claremont, called
it Mount Clare. In 1780 it became the property of Sir John Dick, Bart., who, with the
assistance of Signer P. Columb, a Milanese architect, added a Doric portico and other
decorations, so as to give the house the character of an Italian villa. Much attention
was also given to the improvement of the grounds and plantations. After the decease
of Sir John Dick in 1804 this estate was transferred to Charles Hatchett, Esq.,
P.E.S., subsequently to Henry Mildmay, Esq., and afterwards to Admiral Sir Charles
Ogle.
Bessboeoitgh House, an elegant mansion erected by Sir William Chambers for
Brabason Ponsonby, Earl of Bessborough, is described in the "Vitruvius Britannicus,"
vol. iv., under the name of Parkstead. The Earl was distinguished for his patronage of
the arts, but the fine collection of antiques and pictures which he had formed at Eoehamp-
ton was mostly sold by auction in 1801. Frederick, the third earl, Avas appointed
Lord Lieutenant of Ireland in 1845, and he died at Dublin in 1847. In the grounds,
which are very extensive, is a summer-house in which Lord Bessborough used to enter-
tain the Prince of Wales with wine and cards. The mansion was purchased about 1860
by the Jesuits, who have turned it into a seminary for their order, and have named it
Manresa House, after an episode in the life of their founder, St. Ignatius. A fine chapel
has been added as a wing to the house, and the summer-house above mentioned has been
converted into a little oratory.
Viscountess Clifden has a handsome villa at Eoehampton : here likewise are Devon-
shire House, the seat of Mr. David Barclay Chapman, and The Egokery, the residence
of Mrs. Eobson. Earl Spencer is one of the principal landowners here.
A violent whirlwind which occurred at Eoehampton in October, 1780, occasioned great
damage. From Bessborough House, at Eoehampton, its ravages extended to Hammer-
smith. The premises of a gardener near the lane leading to Barnes Common were nearly
all blown down. Of seven persons who had fled into the barn for shelter, one was killed
on the spot, and another died in consequence of the injuries he had received. On Lady
Eggleton's grounds a large walnut-tree was torn up by the roots, and thrown to the
4
0
PUTNEY. 205
distance of 22 feet. A long avenue of hedgerow trees in Eoehampton Lane was thrown
down. The workhouse on Barnes Common was much damaged, and a windmill
overturned. At Hammersmith the church door was forced open, and a large window on
the opposite side shattered into pieces. The earth in many places in the line of the progress
of the whirlwind was torn up as if ploughed.*
Among the eminent natives and former residents in this parish the following persons
may be noticed : —
Nicholas West, LL.D., Bishop of Ely, was the son of a baker, and born at Putney.
After studying at Eton, he went to King's College, Cambridge, in 1477. There, says
Fuller, " he was a Rakel [Rakehell] in grain ; for something crossing him in the Colledgo,
he could find no other way to work his revenge than by secret setting on fire the Master's
lodgings, part whereof he burnt to the ground." f Wood's statement of this afi'air is that
West, having raised a quarrel about the proctorship of the university, " when he could
not obtain his desires, he set fire to the Provost's lodgings, stole away silver spoons, and
ran away from the College." % He then for a time led an erratic and idle life, but at
length reformed his conduct, studied hard, became an excellent scholar, and an able
diplomatist. In 1502 he obtained the vicarage of Kingston, in Sm-rey, and in 1510 was
made Dean of Windsor, whence, in May, 1515, he was promoted to the bishopric of Ely,
and Henry VIII. employed him repeatedly in foreign embassies. In 1529, when an
investigation of the legality of the marriage of the King with Catherine of Arragon took
place before Wolsey and Campeggio, the Papal commissioners, Bishop West, with Fisher,
Bishop of Eochester, and others, was appointed to manage the Queen's defence. He died
in 1533, and was iaterred in the cathedral church of Ely. It ought to be mentioned that
this prelate, as some atonement for his youthful irregularities, became a benefactor to the
place of his education, and rebuilt the master's lodgings, which in his youth he had
attempted to destroy. Godwin says that the style of his living was so magnificent that he
kept in >his house one hundred servants, to fifty of whom he gave 4 marks wages, and to
the others 40s., allowing each of them 7^ yards of cloth for summer and winter liveries.
Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, and Prime Minister of Henry VIII. after the fall
of Cardinal Wolsey, was the son of a blacksmith at Putney. The place of his birth is yet
pointed out by tradition, and in some measiu'c corroborated by a survey of Wimbledon
manor taken in 1617; for it describes upon that spot "an ancient cottage called the
* Viie I.ysons, " Environ?,'' vol. i. pp. 434, 435 ; from a pamphlet, with engravings, published by Edw. Edwards
ill 1781.
t Fuller, "Worthies," vol. ii. p. 358, edit. 1811. X " Athenoe Oxon." vol. i. col. G53.
2o6 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Smith's Shop, lying west of the highway leading from Putney to the Upper gate, and on
the south side of the highway from Eichmond to "Wandsworth, having the sign of the
Anchor." Scarcely anything is known of the early career of this statesman, until we find
him in the service of Wolsey, by whom he was employed, in 1527, in suppressing a
number of the smaller religious foundations, the revenues of which were to be appropriated
to the support of new colleges at Ipswich and Oxford. The agency of Cromwell on this
occasion probably contributed more than anything else to procure him similar employ-
ment, and consequent promotion as a servant of the Crown. He was appointed a Privy
Councillor, Master of the Jewel Office, Clerk of the Hanaper, Chancellor of the Exchequer,
Principal Secretary of State, Master of the EoUs, Visitor General of the religious founda-
tions. Lord Privy Seal ; and, on the abolition of the Papal supremacy in England, he was
constituted Vicar General of the spiritualities, in virtue of which he presided at the
Convocation held in 1537, taking his place above the Archbishop of Canterbury. He
also held the offices of Chief Justice in Eyre north of the Trent, and Constable of Caris-
brooke Castle, in the Isle of Wight. In 1537 he was raised to the peerage as Baron of
Okeham, in Eutlandshire, and in 1540 created Earl of Essex. A few months only after
this last promotion he was executed as a traitor on Tower Hill, his imperious and
tyrannical master having apparently taken umbrage against him for advancing his marriage
with Anne of Cleves.
Edward Gibbon, the celebrated author of the " History of the Decline and Fall of the
Eoman Empire," was born at Putney on April 27th (O.S.), 1737. Being the only surviving
son of a gentleman possessing an independent fortune, he did not adopt any profession
or lucrative occupation. Part of his youth was spent with his aunt, at the house of his
maternal grandfather, near Putney Bridge. He passed a few years at Westminster School,
and about fourteen months at Magdalen College, Oxford. The immediate cause of his removal
thence was his conversion to the Catholic faith, a circumstance which induced his father to
send him to Lausanne, in Switzerland, and place him under the tutelage of Mr. Pavilliard,
a Calvinist minister, who effected the reconversion of his pupil to Protestantism, of which
he made a public profession on Christmas Day, 1754. He returned to England in 1758,
having during his absence acquired a competent acquaintance with the Latin, Greek,
and French languages and literature. About 1761 he obtained a commission in the
Hampshire militia, of which after some years he became Lieutenant-Colonel. He had
subsequently a seat in Parliament, and for a few years held the office of a Lord of Trade
and Plantations. He travelled in France and Italy in 1763 — 1765, after which he
settled in London, where he continued until 1783, when he removed to Lausanne, at
PUTNEY. 207
wliicli place, Avitli the exception of a few mouths passed in Englaud in 1787 aud 1788, he
resided until 1793. He died in London in 1794.
Gibbon's first publication was a tract in French entitled " Essai sur I'Etudo de la
Litterature," 1761, 12mo. In the same language he published, in conjunction with
Mr. George Deyverdun, a literary journal or revieAV, under the title of "Memoircs Lit-
terau-es de la Grande Bretagne," in two volumes, 17G7, 1768. lie commenced the
publication of his great work, written at Lausanne, on the History of Imperial Eome, in
1776, and the sixth and last volume appeared in 1788. This work has been several times
reprinted in octavo. His Miscellaneous Works, including autobiographical memoirs, were
published by his friend. Lord Sheffield, in 1796. Lysous states that the house in which
Gibbon was born, and which was afterwards purchased by Mr. Eobert Wood (of ■\\'hom a
notice follows) " is situated between the roads which lead to Wandsworth and Wimbledon.
The farm aud pleasure grounds which adjoin the house are very spacious, containing near
80 acres, and command a beautiful prospect of London and the adjoining country." In
the early part of the last century this estate was the property of the late John Pooley
Kensington, Esq., a banker of London, Sherifi" of Surrey in 1803, aud Colonel of the 3rd
Eegiment of the City Volunteers.
Among the residents at Putney who were distinguished as literary characters was
Eobert Wood, Esq., M.P., Under-Secretary of State when Wilkes was prosecuted for
publishing a libel on George III. This gentleman was a native of Ireland, and having
travelled in Greece, Egypt, Arabia, and Syria, he published in 1753 " The Euins of
Palmyra, otherwise Tedmor in the Desert," in folio, illustrated with engravings from his
own drawings; and in 1757 appeared "The Eiiius of Baalbec," in the same style. He
was also the author of an " Essay on the Genius of Homer, with a View of the Ancient
and Present State of the Troad," 1775, 4to, reprinted in 1797. He died in 1771, and
was interred in the new biuial-ground on the upper road to Eichmond. The inscription
to his memory was written by the Hon. Horace Walpole.
John Toland, M. A., a deistical writer in the earlier part of the last century, spent
the later years of his life in lodgings at a carpenter's in Putney, where he died in 1722,
and was buried in the churchyard. He was born near Londonderry in 1670, and ho
received his education at the University of Glasgow ; but he also studied at Edinburgh,
Leyden, and Oxford. He possessed great talents and learning, but his open scepticism,
both in his conversation and writings, gave ofi'ence to many. His most noted works are
those entitled "Christianity not Mysterious," published in 1696; "Life of John
Milton," 1698; "Amyntor, or a Defence of Milton's Life," 1699; " Origines Judaicse,"
HISTORY OF SURREY.
publislied in Holland about 1709; " Tetradymus," &c., 1720; " Pantheisticon," in
Latin, 1720; and a " History of the British Druids:" the latter was published with
other posthumous works, and reprinted in 1807. Many of Toland's manuscripts are in
the British Museum. He was an adept in more than ten languages.
TOOTING, OR LOWER TOOTING.*
The parish of Tooting is bordered on the north by Wandsworth, on the east by
Streatham, and by Mitcham on the south and west. The soil in general consists of
clay intermixed with graA'el, and the land is chiefly arable. In most records the name
of this place is written with the addition of Gravency, which should more properly be
Gravenell, being the name of persons who held considerable property here in the twelfth
and thu-teenth centuries.
There were two, or rather three, manors called ToUnges (Tooting) at the time of the
Doomsday survey, besides that held of the gift of Kichard de Tonbridge by the monks
of St. Mary de Bee, and therefore styled the manor of Tooting Bee, described in the
account of Streatham. One of these manors is thus noticed in the Doomsday Book, among
the lands of the Abbot of St. Peter's, "Westminster : —
*' The Abbot holds Totinges, which Swain or Sweyn held of King Edward, when it
was assessed at 4 hides. The arable land amounts to 1^ carucates. There are two
villains, with half a carucate, and 3 acres of meadow. In the time of King Edward it was
valued at 40s., and the same at present; but when the Abbot received it, at only 20s.
" Earl Wallef obtained this land from Swain, after the death of King Edward, and
he mortgaged it, for 2 marks of gold, to Alnothus the Londoner, who gave his interest in
it to St. Peter, for the health of his soul. Odbert holds it of the Abbot, exempt from
payment of geld."
This manor is supposed to have been joined either with the manor of Tooting Bee in
Streatham, or with that of Tooting Graveney.
The other estates are thus described in the Doomsday Book : —
" Haimo the Sheriff holds Totinges of the Abbot of Certesy. In the time of King
Edward it was assessed at 6 hides, wanting 1 virgate: now at nothing. The arable
land consists of 3 carucates. There is 1 carucate in demesne ; and three villains, and
two bordars, with 1 carucate. There is a church ; and 4 acres of meadow. In the time of
King Edward, it was valued at 40s. ; afterwards, at 20s. ; and now, at 70s.
* Upper Tooting is chiefly situated in tlie parish, of Streatham.
TOOTING, OR LOWER TOOTING. 209
" The same Haimo holds of the Abbot 1 hide, held of King Edward by Osward, who
could remove whither he pleased. There is one villain, with half a carucate, and 1 acre
of meadow. In the time of King Edward, it was valued at 15s. ; now at 10s."
Hamo de Gravenell, in the reign of Henry II., gave to the Prior of St. Mary Overey
the tithes and advowson of the church of Tooting, and the grant was confirmed by
Eichard, Bishop of Winchester. King John, in 121C, granted to Denis, his chaplain,
the land at Tooting which had belonged to Eichard de Gravenell, who had probably lost
the estate in consequence of having taken part with the barons in theii' contest with the
King. If so, however, the lands must have been shortly restored, for it is stated in the
Testa de Nevill that the heirs of Eichard de Gravenell held one knight's fee in Tooting
of the Abbot of Chertsey. In 13 Edward I. Bartholomew de Castello obtained a charter
of free-warren for himself and his heirs in this manor.
Thomas de Lodelowe died in 1314, seized of the manor of Totinge Gravenel, consisting
of a capital messuage, garden, dovecote, 100 acres of arable land, 12 of meadow, 5 of
pasture, 4 of woodland, rents of assize, &c., held of the Abbot of Chertsey in cajntc, as
half a knight's fee. Katherine, widow of Thomas de Lodelowe, son and heii- of the
preceding, held this manor in 1394 by the payment of a rose at the feast of St. John the
Baptist. On her decease in the same year the inheritance devolved on Margaret,
daughter of Thomas Lodelowe, and wife of Sir John Dymock, whose family continued its
possessors for nearly two centuries. Sir Edward Dymock, about 1593, transferred this
property to James Harrington, Esq., by whom, in 1597, it was conveyed to Sir Henry
Maynard, secretary to Lord Burghley ; and it was probably to him that Queen Elizabeth
paid her visit when at Tooting in 1600. William, his eldest son, was advanced to the
peerage, but this estate was held, possibly under a marriage settlement, by Sir John
Maynard, his second son, made a Knight of the Bath at the coronation of Charles I. He
sat in several Parliaments, and in 1647, together with Denzil Holies, Sir William Waller,
and other leaders of the Presbyterian party, was impeached of high treason. Maynard was
committed to the Tower, but the prosecution was discontinued. On his decease in 1658
this estate descended to his son and heir, John, who died in 1664, leaving a daughter
Mary, wife of Sir Edward Honeywood, Bart.
Sii- Paul Wichcote, Bart., was owner of this property prior to 1695, and in that year
the royal assent was given in Parliament, enabling him and Dame Jane, his wife, to make
" leases for ninety-nine years of the manor of Tooting-Graveuey, and any of his messuages,
lands, and hereditaments in Tooting-Graveney, Tooting-Becko, and Streatham, in the county
of Surrey, for the better improvement thereof." The manor was subsequently pui'chased
VOL. III. B E
2,0 HISTORY OF SURREY.
by James Bateman, Esq., afterwards knighted, an Alderman of Loudon, and Lord Mayor in
1717 : lie died in 171 8, and was buried by uigbt with great pomp in Tooting Church. His
son John sold this manor, with his other property in Surrey, under the authority of an Act
passed in 11 George I., to Percival Lewis, Esq., of Putney, from whom it descended to his
grandson of the same name, whose estate here was sold by auction in 1767 for £24,925.
Morgan Eice, Esq., a distiller, who bought the manor and part of the land, built a good
house on the rising ground above the church, and was appointed Sheriff of Surrey in
1772. Soon after his decease in 1795 this manor was sold to Thomas Piatt, Esq. ; it has
since passed successively into the hands of the Poles, Barings, Thomases, &c.
Advowson, &c. — On the dissolution of the priory of St. Mary Overey this advowson
became vested in the Crown, and was granted by Edward YI. to Edward Fynes, Lord
Clinton and Say, afterwards Earl of Lincoln. It was subsequently repeatedly transferred
by sale, imtil it came into the possession of Sir James Bateman, Avho held the manor, as
stated above, and James, his son, about 1725, sold both to Percival Lewis, Esq. The
latter conveyed the advowson to the Eev. Nicholas Brady, whose only daughter, Martha,
was married to the Eev. Dr. Henry Allen, instituted to this living in 1769. He afterwards
sold the advowson to the Eev. G. F. Barlow, who succeeded him as vicar, and then
disposed of the patronage to Peter Broadley, Esq. The present patron is the Eev. George
S. Flack, who is also rector. This benefice, in the diocese of Eochester and archdeaconry
of Southwark, is described in the Yalor of Henry VIII. as paying a pension of 5s. to the
Prior of St. Mary's, and 4s. Cd. for procurations and synodals. In the Taxation of Pope
Nicholas it is valued at 40s., and in the King's books at £8 8s. 6id, The Eegister
commences in 1555.
The church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was rebuilt in 1822 from the designs of Mr.
Atkinson, reconsecrated in 1833, and further enlarged in 1873 and 187G. It is in the
pointed style, and has a well-proportioned tower of four stories. The east windoAv is
enriched with stained glass, the gift of the late E. G. Thomas, Esq., lord of the manor :
the side windows are also bordered with stained glass. In the central part of the Gothic
altar screen is a good copy, presented by Mr. Bates, of the "Salvator Mundi " by
Sir James Thornhill.
Among the sepulchral memorials removed from the old church is a tablet in memory
of Sir John Hebdon, Knt., twice Envoy to Eussia under Charles I. and Charles II., " for
whose interest he spared neither purse nor person, though to the prejudice of his owne."
He died in 1670. Capt. Philip Gidley King, E.N., formerly Governor of New South
"Wales, who died in 1802, was buried in the south aisle. A more recent tablet records
WAXnSUVRTH. 21,
the memory of Rieliard Alsager, Esq., M.P. for East Surrey, and " one of the Ekler Brothers
of the Trinity House," who died in 1841.
In the churchyard are the tombs of Sir John Maynard, K.B., and his sou. Sir John
Maynard, Knt., who died in 1658 and 1664 respectively.
Rectors of Tooting Graveney in and since 1800 :* —
\.—Rolcrt Broadleij, B.A. Inducted in 1801.
2.— John RavcuMll, B.A. Instituted in 1805.
3. — John Buxton 3farsdeu, M.A. Inducted in 1833.
4. — Richard Wilson Greaves, M.A. Instituted in 1844.
5. — John Congreve, M.A. Instituted in 18G7.
Q>.— George Sutton Flack, M.A. Instituted in 1875.
Between the churchyard and the Mitcham road is an artesian well : it was sunk at
the cost of the parishioners, and a fountain raised over it in 1823. It produces an
abundant and constant supply, the water being directed to several small fountains in the
village : the depth of the well is about 130 feet. The cemetery belonging to the parish
of Lambeth is at Lower Tooting : it covers about 20 acres of land. Xear the church,
on the road to Streatham, are schools for boys and gu'ls on the National system.
At Tooting and its neighbourhood, as in most of the suburban villages in Surrey,
are numerous seats of retired merchants and tradesmen, several of them being elegant
villas, with extensive grounds annexed. Of these. Hill House, formerly the seat of the
late Mr, Alderman Veuables, is one of the most conspicuous. Tooting Bee Common,
nearly 150 acres in extent, is imder the management of the Metropolitan Board of Works,
and preserved as an " open space " for the recreation of the South Londoners.
There is at Tooting a meeting-house for Independents, which, Lysons says, "owes its
origin to the celebrated Daniel Defoe, who fli'st formed the Dissenters of that neighbour-
hood into a regular society soon after the Eevolution."
WANDSWORTH.
The village which gives name to this parish is situated on the banks of tlie rivor
Wandle, whence it was called IVandlesworlh, and in the Doomsday Book Wendelesorde,
the termination tvorth in the Saxon language, according to Lysons, signifying a village or
a shore. On the north this parish is bounded by the Thames, on the east by Battersea,
* Samuel Lisle, D.D., who was instituted to Tooting in 1720-21, and resigned the living in 1729, was i-aised to the
bishopric of St. Asaph in 1743. He was subsequently translated to Norwich, and died in 1749.
2,2 HISTORY OF SURREY.
ou the south by Streatham and Tooting, and on the west by Putney and Wimbledon.
The soil in general is a sandy loam, with a subsoil of gravel.
The following particiilars of this place are derived from the Doomsday Book : —
" William Pitz-Ansculf holds Wetidelesorde, which was held of King Edward, by six
socmen [socmanni'], who could remove whither they pleased. There were two Halls.
Then and now it was assessed at 12 hides. The arable land consists of 4 carucates.
Ansculf had this land after he received the Shrievalty ; but the men of the hundred say
they never saw seal or livery. Ansfrid held 5 hides, now assessed for 1 hide ; Eldred
3 hides, now for nothing; Wolfward [Yluuardus] 3 hides; Walter the Huntsman
[Vinitor] 1 hide, which never paid geld. In the lands of these men are 2^ carucates in
demesne ; and five villains, and twenty bordars, with 2 carucates ; and 22 acres of
meadow. The whole manor, in the time of King Edward, was rated at 110s. ; afterwards
at 50s. ; now at £8 in all."
"The Abbot of St. Yandreuil [St. Wandregesil] holds Wandesorde, by Ingulph the
monk. Sweyn held it of King Edward, and could remove whither he pleased. It was
then assessed at 1 hide ; now at nothing. There are tkree Adllains, and two bordars, with
1 carucate. It was and is valued at 20s."
In the survey of Battersea, which was held by the Abbot of Westminster, it is stated
that " the toll of Wandelesorde yielded £6 to the Abbot."
At the present time there are four reputed manors, either wholly or in part in this
parish ; namely, Battersea and Wandsworth, Downe, Dunsfold, and Alfarthing.
The Manor of Battersea and Wandsworth. — The land called Wendelesorde in the
Doomsday Book, and recorded to be held by William Eitz- Ansculf, appears to have been
illegally acquired by his father whilst Sheriff of Surrey. The jurors testified that they
had not seen either seal or livery respecting it, and in consequence the King is supposed
to have seized the land, and to have given it to the Abbot of Westminster, by whom it
was annexed to Battersea.
The Manor of Downe, or Downe-buys. — This manor is thought to have had
origin in some one of the parcels of land mentioned in the Doomsday Book as held by
Ansfrid, Eldred, and others. Eobert de la Dune, in the reign of Henry III., held one-
third of a knight's fee in Wendelesworth from the Abbot of Westminster. In a record
of 51 EdAvard III. it is stated that the abbot held this manor (valued at £4) under the
King in frank-almoigne. After the suppression it remained among the possessions of
the Crown until Elizabeth, in 1581, granted it to William Cammock, who next year
conveyed it to Sir William Cecil, afterwards Lord Burghley. Erom him this manor
c^mi?.
CIM^ h:^4c?^ Jl^.^6, fln. ^Mn^>4^ UAee^^t. -fS'^t?.
ected M-ndowc-a "by Miss Woods of S"hop Wyie
WANDS f von TH: 213
descended to his grandson Edward, Yiscouut AVimbledou, -whose daughters and
coheiresses sokl it to Mrs. Elizabeth HowLand, of Streatham. Ey the marriage of her
daughter Elizabeth with Wriothesley, Marquis of TaAdstock, this manor, with Streatham
and other estates, became vested in the Eussell family ; and in 1792 Francis, Duke of_
Bedford, sold Downe to George John, second Earl Spencer, Avhose grandson, the tifth and
present earl, is now owner.
The manor of Dunsfold, which before the Eeformation belonged to Merton Priory, was
granted by Henry YIII. to Charles Brandon, Duke of Suflfolk, who sold it to Thomas,
Lord Cromwell, for £403 Gs. 8d. On his attainder in 1541 it reverted to the Crown.
Qneen Elizabeth, in 15G4, granted it to her favourite, Eobert Dudley, afterwards Earl of
Leicester, of whom it was purchased by Sir "William Cecil, and in 7 Elizabeth conveyed by
him to John Swift, Esq.* He sold it to Thomas Smith, Esq., who held his first court
liere in 1569, and whose descendant, George Smith, in 1661, transferred it to Sir Alan
Brodi-ick, ancestor of "William Brocbick, eighth Viscoimt Midleton.
The Mai^or op Alfarthing. — This manor appears to have anciently belonged to the
Molyns family, of whom John, Lord Molyns, in 8 Edward III., obtained a grant of free-
warren in all his demesne lands in Halverthing and "Wandsworth. Alianor, daughter and
sole heu-ess of "William Molyns, or de Molines, was married in 1441 to Eobert Hungerford,
summoned to Parliament as Lord de Molines in right of his wdfe by Henry VI., for
espousing whose cause in the "War of the Eoses he was attainted and beheaded in 1463,
when his estates escheated to the Crown. Henry "VIII. annexed this manor to the honour
* The following is an abstract (translated) from the Deed of Feofment relating to the Dunsfold (Downeforthe) and
Garrett estates ia Wandsworth, enrolled in Chancery in 1564, and entered on the Dorse of the Close Roll in the same
year: —
" Know all men that I William Cecil!, Knt., Principal Secretary to the Queen, and Master of the Court of Wards
and Liveries, for a competent sum of lawful money of England, paid me by John Swifte, Esq., of London, have delivered
and enfeoffed the said John Swifte and Margaret his Wife in all that my Lordship and Manor of Downeforthe or Donne-
forth, in the co. of Surrey, which belonged to the lately dissolved Monastery of Marten [Merton], and was afterwards
annexed to the Honour of Hampton Court.— And also all that Messuage or Tenement, with its appurtenances, called
' the Garrett; in the Parish of Wannesworthe, Surrey, with all the arable lands, meadows, fields, pastures, and heredita-
ments whatsoever, being part and parcel of the same, and usually heretofore demised and held with it ; and likewise all
my tithes, greater and less, predial and personal, arising within the said parish of Wannesworth, now or lately in the
occupation of John Bowland or his assigns, formerly pertaining to the Monastery of Marten, and afterwards annexed to
tlie Honoxir of Hampton Court ; and all and singular the premises which I the before-named AVilliam Cccill had and
obtained for myself and my heirs for ever, from the most noble Robert Duddeley, K.G., Earl of Leicester, and which he
held imder a grant of our Lady Queen Elizabeth, by letters patent dated June 9th, in the 5th year of her reign. I assure,
in the most fuU and ample form, the above-mentioned Lordsliip, Manor and Tenements to the fore-named John Swifte,
Mai'garet his wife, and their heirs and as.?igns. Moreover, be it known that I WUliam CeciU have constituted and
ordained Anthony Rotsey and Robert Hodgeson, Gentlemen, to be my true and lawful attorneys, to give seisin and
possession of the above premises. In Witness, &c.
" Signed W. CecUl ; and sealed with his Crest ; and dated March I7tli, 1564 : the 7th of
Queen Elizabeth."
214 HISTORY OF SURREY.
of Hampton Court ; but subsequently, in 1534, lie granted it for a term of sixty years to
Thomas, Lord Cromwell. After its reversion to ttie Crown by his attainder, the King
regranted it (apparently on lease) to Eobert Draper, Esq., Page of the Jewel Office, by the
marriage of whose daughter Elizabeth with John Bowyer, Esq., it was transferred to that
family ; and Sir Edward Bowyer, of Camberwell, held a court here in 21 James I. That
monarch settled the manor on Prince Charles, who, after his accession to the throne in
1625, demised it for a term of ninety-nine years to Sir Henry Hobart and others. After-
wards, in 1629, the King granted this estate in fee-simple to Thomas Porter, Esq., whose
descendant, John Porter, Esq., married Catherine, daughter of Lieut.-Gen. Sutton, leaving,
at his decease in 1764, one son and five daughters. One of the latter married Pierce
"Walsh, of an honourable Irish family ; and to their son. Pierce Patrick Walsh, Esq., this
manor was bequeathed by his maternal uncle on condition of his taking the name of
Porter. He died in 1809, and was succeeded by his son, the late Walsh Porter, Esq.,
who enfranchised much of the copyhold property, and in 1811 sold the manor to the
Eev. Mr. White, by whom, in 1816, it was resold to Earl Spencer.
Advowson, &C.- — The rectory and advowson, previously belonging to the Abbot of
Westminster, became vested in the Crown after the dissolution of the monasteries, and
Henry VIII. annexed the former to the honour- of Hampton Court. In 1581 Queen
Elizabeth gave both rectory and advowson to Edward Downing and Peter Ashton ; and
they were afterwards transferred conjointly to successive proprietors until 1731, when Mr.
John Acworth, who then held them, sold the rectorial tithes to the trustees of Marshall's
charity for augmentiag small livings. But he retained the advowson, which was held by
his grandson, Thomas Acworth, who died in 1783, when it fell to his three sisters and
coheiresses. It was afterwards purchased by the Eev. E. H. Butcher, and subsequently by
Dr. Pemberton and Dr. Eobinsou, but is now in the gift of the Eev. J. Buckmaster, '
the present vicar. This benefice is a vicarage, in the deanery of Southwark. In
20 Edward I. it was valued at 10 marks; in the King's books at £15 5s. 5d., paying
7s. 7:|.d. for procurations, and 2s. Id. for synodals. The earliest Eegister commences in
1603, but is very defective. The following entries of longevity are given by Lysons : —
Alice PallaJaye, widow, aged 114 years, buried March 25, 1622.
Mr. Thomas Tayer, aged 101, buried Dec. 30, 1653.
Mary Cross, widow, aged 102 years, buried August 5, 1760.
The following entry also occurs :—
Sarah, daughter of Praise Barbone, was buried April 13, 1635.
This is considered by Lysons to refer to a daughter of the celebrated Puritan nick-
WANDSWORTH.
IIS
I
named "Praise God Barebone," a distinguished member of the Parliament which has
been designated by his name. He was a leather-seller in Fleet Street.
Vicars of Wandsworth in and since 1800 : * — •
1. — Robert Holt Butcher, LL.B. Instituted in 1778.
2. — William Borradaile, D.D. Instituted in 1823.
3. — Daniel Charles Delafossc, D.D. Instituted in 1838.
4. — Edward Robert Pembcrton, D.C.L. Instituted in 1844.
5. — Richard Lateward Toivnsend, M.A. Instituted in 1850.
6. — John Buckmaster, M.A, Instituted in 1856.
All Saints' Church. — We have no account of the origia of this church, but it must
have been prior to the time of Bishop Toecliffe, who appropriated the rectory to the
see of Winchester about a.d. 1180. His successor, Godfrey do Lucy, ordained that the
monks should receive an annual pension of 6 marks out of the revenues of the church,
leaving the vicar enough to support himself and to pay the episcopal burdens. The
old church was almost wholly taken down in 1780, and the present structure was built
in its stead, at an expense of about £3,500. At the west end is a square tower of two
stories, the lowermost of which formed part of the old tower, but was recascd 'n\ 1841,
a belfry story being raised upon it. The latter, which is pierced with three circular-
headed windows on each side in the Italian style, is terminated by an ornamented parapet,
surmounted at each angle by a vase. The whole is of light-coloured brick, with stone
dressings. It contains a fine set of eight bells, cast by Mears, of Whitechapel, in 1841.
The interior, almost a square, was repaii'cd and redecorated in 1828. Its galleries arc
spacious, and on the front panelling of those to the south and west are numerous inscrip-
tions in gilt letters, recording the charitable benefactions made to the poor. The ceiliug
over the nave is waggon-shaped, but that over the aisles is flat.
Among the old monuments replaced after the enlargement of the church are the
following : — ■
Against the east wall, south of the chancel, is the mural monument of Mr. Alderman
Smith, a native of Wandsworth, whose memory will ever be revered on account of his
extensive and useful charities. It is architecturally designed, and exhibits within
an arched recess a statue of the deceased in a gown and ruff, kneeling devotionally at a
* Stow lias recorded the fate of Griffith Clarke, Vicar of Wandsworth, who (together with his chaplain, his
servant, and Friar Waire) was hanged and quartered at St. Thomas Waterings in 1539. The chronicler professes
himself ignorant of the cause of their execution, but Lysous says that they probably suffered for denying the King's
supremacy. (" Emdrons," &c. vol. i. p. 510.)
2,6 HISTORY OF SURREF.
desk, and holding a skull. At the sides are Ionic columns supporting an entablature
surmounted by a shield of arms, and two small figures bearing emblems of mortality. On
a tablet beneath the plinth is this inscription : —
Here lyeth the tody of Henry Smith, Esquire, sometime Citizen and Alderman of London, who departed tliis
life the 3d day of January, anno Dni 1627, being neere the age of 79 years, whome while he lived gave unto the
several Townes in Surrey following, one thousand pounds apiece to buy lands for perpetuity for ye relief and
setting the poor people a-worke in the said Towns, viz. to the Towne of Croydon one thousand pounds ; to the
Towne of Kingston one thousand pounds ; to the Towne of Guildford one thousand pounds ; to the Towne of
Dorking one thousand pounds ; to the Towne of Farnham one thousand pounds ; and by his last Will and
Testament did further give and devise, to buy lands for perpetuity for the reliefe and setting their poore a-worke
unto the To\viie of Kygate one thousand pounds ; unto the Towne of Richmond one especialtye or debt of a
thousand pounds ; and unto the Towne of Wandsworth, wherein he was borne, the sum of 500 pounds, for the
same uses as before ; and did further wiU and bequeath one thousand pounds to buy lands for perpetuity to
redeeme poore captives and prisoners from the Turkish tyranie. And not here stinting his charity and bounty
did also give and bequeath the most part of his estate, being to a great value, for the purchasing lands of
inheritance for ever for the releife of the poore and setting them a-worke. A pattern worthy the imitation of
those whom God hath blessed with the abundance of the goods of this life to follow him herein.
Besides the above, the following lines, inscribed on brass, are on a gravestone in the
upper part of the nave : —
Mole sub hac quaeris quis conditur, optime lector,
Cuius et qualis, quantus in orbe fuit ?
A dextris muri, statuam tu cemere possis
Oranti similem, marmore de Pario ;
Subter quani statuam cernatur tabula sculpts
Arvratis verbis qufe tibi cuncta notant.
Depositum Henr' Siiith Senatoris Londineusis.
Another mural monument displays a small kneeling figure of Mrs. Susanna Powel, a
benefactress to this parish. She was the daughter of Thomas Hayward, Yeoman of the
Guard to Henry VIII., Edward YI., Mary, and Elizabeth, and died in 1630.
On another monument, north of the chancel, are white marble busts of Sir Thomas
Brodrick, and Katherine his relict, with inscriptions in Latin: the former died in 1641,
and the latter in 1678.* Among the modern tablets is one in memory of the Eev.
Eobert Holt Butcher, LL.B., and others of his family : he died in 1822, having been
forty-four years minister of this parish. On a grave-slab near the pulpit is an ancient
brass of a knight in armour, but much defaced : the date is 1420, temp. Henry V., but
the name has long been broken off and lost.
The adjoining churchyard is small; but there are two others, the earlier on the
* Sir- Alan Brodrick, Knt., Surveyor General of Ireland, ob. Nov. 25, 1680, a benefactor to this parish ; Alan
Brodrick, first Viscount Midleton, ob. 1747 ; George Brodrick, second viscount ; and several others of the family, are
buried in vaults in this church.
WANDSWORTH.
217
East Hill, and the other, consecrated in 1808 in Garrett Lane: these contain many tombs
and other sepulchral memorials.
St. Anne's, on St. Anne's Hill, now a district chm-ch, Avas erected from the designs
of Mr. (afterwards Sir) Eobert Smii-ke, and completed in 1822, but it was not consecrated
until 1824: the contract for its erection was £14,6U(), which was defrayed by the Com-
missioners for building new churches. The ground-plan is nearly a parallelogram (of
about 100 feet by 70 feet), with a hexastyle portico and pediment of the Ionic order,
annexed to the west end, and an embowed recess, with vestries, at the east end. The body
of the church is constructed of brick, with stone di-essings ; the portico, &c., is of stone.
From the central part of the roof, behind the portico, rises a cylindi-ical steeple of two
stories : the lower story is surrounded by eight anta3, sustaining an entablature and
cornice, and the upper storj^ (which has a circular stylobate, pierced with four apertures
for dials) with engaged columns : the whole is surmounted by a hemispherical dome
and gilt cross. The interior is divided into nave and aisles by six square piers ou
each side, with moulded caps, and these, together with intervening pedestals, support a
colonnade of slender Doric columns, on which rests a horizontal ceiling. Here are largo
side galleries and a spacious western gallery, occupying two of the intercolumniations.
The number of sittings is about 1,800, of which the greater portion arc free. The
other churches in Wandsworth are St. Mart's Summer's Town ; St. Paul's, on St.
John's Hill ; and Holy Trinity, near the outskirts of "Wimbledon Park. Another place of
worship here is the Eoman Catholic chapel of St. Thomas of Canterbury, opened in 1847.
There are also many places of worship for Dissenters.
Wandsworth is an extensive village, and, from its population, shops, and manu-
factories, has the air and bustle of a market town. Here are a police court and
station ; a county coiu-t ; and a Union workhouse for the Wandsworth, Battersea,
Putney, Streatham, and Clapham districts, on the East Hill. The County Prison
for SiuTcy, on Wandsworth Common, was built in 1851, and covers a large extent
of ground. The various buildings are principally of brick, and the ju-ison possesses
all the latest appliances for preserving order and discipline amongst the inmates.
In the High Street is a small bridge crossing the Wandle, which, from a muiute in
the churchwardens' accounts quoted bj- Lysons, appears to have been originally built
at the expense of Queen Elizabeth in 1G02: it was rebuilt with thi-ee arches in
1820. Aubrey, writing about 1673, says, "Hero is a bridge call'd the Sink of ihc
Country.''^*
* " Surrey," vol. i. p. 14.
VOL. III. p F
2i8 HISTORY OF SURREY.
The same writer mentions at Waudswortli a manufacture " of Brass plates for kettles,
skellets, frying-pans, &c., by Dutch Men, who keep it a Mystery." The houses wherein
this was established long bore the name of the " Frying-pan houses." Additional manufac-
tures, as hatting, dyeing, &c., were introduced by a colony of French refugees, whom the
persecutions consequent upon the revocation of the Edict of Nantes by Louis XIV. had
driven from their native country. For the pui'poses of their own worship they enlarged a
chapel (standing somewhat back from the High Street) erected by the Puritans in the
reign of Elizabeth, and their descendants continued to occupy it imtil the end of the last
century, the service being performed in French. The chapel, a low and plain building, has
been repaired and altered, and is now used by a congregation of Independents.
Between Wandsworth and Tooting is the hamlet of Gareett,* which, from the records
of the manor of Dunsfold, appears to have consisted, in the early part of Queen Elizabeth's
reign, of a single house called "The Garrett: " this was sold by Wm. Cecil, afterwards
Lord Burghley, to John Swift, in 15G4. It was afterwards the mansion of the Brodricks,
biit was pulled down about a century ago, and the grounds pertaining to it were subse-
quently let to a market gardener. When Lysous wrote there were about fifty houses in this
hamlet ; but the buildings in Garrett Lane and its neighbourhood being greatly augmented,
and ViiQ population so much increased that a new church became necessary for their
accommodation, this was supplied by the munificence of Mr. Joshua Stauger. Tliis edifice
was dedicated to St. Mary, and opened for divine worship in 1838. It is built in the
lancet style of architecture, with a square tower, surmounted by a small octagonal spii'c
at the west end. It is called St. Mary's Summer's Town.
In this parish are two ISTational Schools, British and Commercial Schools, two Infant
Schools, and also Industrial and Board Schools.
The resident gentry of Wandsworth are chiefly located on the East and West Hills,
and on the skirts of the common. Among the chief mansions on the Kingston road is
Melrose Hall, now the Eoyal Hospital for Incurables. This institution was founded in
1854 at Carshalton; it was afterwards removed to Putney, whence, in 1863, it was again
removed to the present building, which has been enlarged to meet the requirements of the
Hospital : it holds 200 patients, and is supported entirely by voluntary contributions.
On West Hill is a fine mansion erected by Lady Eivers, and afterwards purchased by
* This hamlet was formerly notorious for its mock election of a Mayor upon the meeting of every new Parliament.
The candidates were generally half-idiotic and deformed persons, who were urged forward and furnished with gaudy
clotliing and gay equipages hy the publicans, v/ho, as Lysons remarks, " made a good harvest of the day's frolic." This
once-popular scene of confusion and riot gave origin to Foote's amusing farce entitled Tlw Mayor of Garrett The last
Garrett election was in 1796. Its most celebrated members (mock knights as well as mayors) were Sir Jeoflfrey
Dunstan, a hawker of old wigs, and Sir Harry Dimsdale, a muffin crier, of both of whom portraits are extant.
WAA'DSUVJiy//. 119
John Authony Eucker, Esq., a Ilamliurg and llussia mcrclianl, M^hosc doscondants still
hold the estate.
On the top of East Hill stands St. Peter's IIosniAL (the ahnsliouscs of the Tish-
mongers' Company), removed hither from Newington Butts. The edifice, which was
completed in 1851, occupies three sides of a quadrangle, with a chapel in the centre, and
provides a home for 42 poor members of the company and their Avives. The principal
entrance to the Hospital is by massive gilded gates, on which is the motto, " All Morship
be to God only."
In Spanish Eoad, near the Fishmongers' Almshouses, is the Feiendless Boys' Home.
This is a valuable refuge for boys from ten to sixteen years of age, "who have either
lost their characters, or are in danger of doing so." The average number of boys in the
Home is about 200. This institution was founded in 1852. An establishment similar to
the above is the Surrey Industrial School for homeless and destitute boys not convicted
of crime, situated at Bridge House, on the north side of the High Street.
An iron railway, extending from the Thames at Wandsworth to Croydon, was
constructed in pursuance of an Act of Parliament obtained in 1800, by -which the
subscribers were authorised to raise £30,000 for the pm-posc, in shares of £100
each. Its utilitj^ in conveying the manufactures of the intermediate places to the
river was soon apparent, and under another Act the railway was continued to Merstham
in 1805, with equally beneficial results.
Wandsworth Beidge, which spans the Thames, and connects the York Eoad with
King's Eoad, Fulham, was built in 1873 from the designs of Mr. J. H. Tolme. It is
made of iron, and consists of five spans, borne on massive coupled wrought-iron cylinders :
the three central- stream spans arc each 133 feet broad.
The Surrey Lunatic Asylum. — This establishment occupies about 90 acres of land
at the south-west corner of Wandsworth Common, purchased by the county magistrates
in 1839. The architect was Mr. William Moseley. The buildings, in the latest style of
Tudor architecture, and standing on a gently rising ground, were erected at a cost of about
£63,000. They are constructed of red brick, with stone dressings and rusticated quoins,
window frames, string-courses, &c. ; the brickwork itself is diversified by the insertion
of various devices and interlacings in black brick.
The entire pile is composed of three principal masses, variously subdivided, and consist-
ing of a centre with advanced Aviugs, and having a western aspect. The middle portion
of the central part, which is OS feet in width, and more lofty than its lateral adjuncts, pro-
jects about 40 feet : it has three breaks, or divisions, each being surmounted by a fiiiialed
F F 2
220 HISTORY OF SURREF.
gable. On the first floor is the chapel, with an open timber roof, and a large window
at each end, north and south. The advanced wings have, at each angle, a pavilion,
carried up a story higher than the intervening parts, and ornamented with gables, &c.
Almost every portion of the asylum is fire-proof; the wards and cells for the patients
are completely so, there being no woodwork of any kind, except the doors, used in the
construction. It will hold about 950 inmates. The northern side is allotted to the male,
and the southern to the female patients. Every part is well ventilated, and on each side
are three separate courts for air and exercise.
The EoYAL YiCTOEiA Pateiotic Asylum for girls and boys was founded and endowed
by the Commissioners of the Eoyal Patriotic Fund, instituted in 1854 for the purpose of
"giving assistance to the widows and orphans of those who fell during the Crimean and
more recent wars, and to provide schools for their children." Her Majesty laid the first
stone of the Asylum for Girls in 1857 : \h% Asylum for Boys is situated on East Hill.
Mulberry Cottage, on Wandsworth Common, was once the residence of the well-
known antiquary, Francis Grose, Esq.
Clapham Junction Station, at the north-eastern extremity of the common, is one of
the most important junctions in the vicinity of London. The number of trains which call
at this station per day on the several lines is 8G3 ; those which pass through without
stopping, 138; and it is calculated that on an average about 25,000 passengers enter or
pass the junction every twenty-four hours.*
WIMBLEDON.
This parish is bounded on the north by Putney and Eoehampton, on the cast by
Wandsworth, on the south by Merton and Cheam, and on the west by Kingston. The
soil varies much, consisting in some places of gravel, in others of clay, black sand, or
loam, with a subsoil of clay or gravel ; in the meadows it is a black moorland earth.
The ground is frequently marshy, springs occurring near the surface ; yet when an artesian
well was dug at Wimbledon Park, the late seat of Earl Spencer, in 1798, the excavators,
having shut out the land springs, penetrated to the depth of 563 feet before water was
found, but it then rose in great abundance.f Wimbledon is thought to have derived its
name from some Saxon proprietor named Wymhald, and dun, or dune, a hill in the Saxon
language, possibly by adoption from the British: hence the appellations Wymhaldon
* See " Old and New London," vol. vi. p. 483.
t Manning, " Surrey," vol. iii. p. 272. Lysons states that on the common, near the village, " is a well, the water of
which is never known to freeze in the mo.st severe winter." — Environs, vol. i. p. 520.
WIMBLEDOX. 22,
and Wijmhehhn, by which this place is distinguished in okl records. In the Registers
of Archbishoj) Eoynolds (1313 — 1327), preserved at Lambeth, it is styled Wimbledon.
At the time of the Doomsday survey Wimbledon was included in a very extensive
manor of Mortlake belonging to the Archbishop of Canterbury, and in all the more ancient
documents it is described as a grange, or farm, in that manor.
In the Testa de Neviil it is stated that Eobert de Wymbeldon held one-third of
a knight's fee in Wymbeldon, imder the Archbishop of Canterbury, in the time of
Ileniy III. or Edward I. On an inquisition taken in 1398, on an alleged forfeiture of
Archbishop Arundel, attainted of treason against Eichard II., the manor of Wimbledon is
mentioned as pertaining to that of Croydon, which also belonged to the see of Canterbury.
In the following year Arundel returned from his exile in Franco with Henry of Boling-
broke (afterwards Henry IV.), and was restored to his see and its possessions, including
*|,the manor of Mortlake, or Wimbledon, as it has since continued to be denominated. His
• successors held it till exchanged by Archbishop Cranmer with Henry VIII. for other lands,
and shortly after it was granted to Cromwell, Earl of Essex, on whose attainder in 1540
his estates escheated to the Crown. Wimbledon was next settled for life on Queen
Catherine Parr, after whose decease in 1548 Queen Mary bestowed it on Cardinal Pole, who
dying in 1558, the Crown resumed its possession. Queen Elizabeth gave this estate to Sir
Christopher Hatton, who sold the manor-house to Sir Thomas Cecil, eldest son of Lord
Burghley, and the manorial estate (though by what means it had again come into her
hands does not appear) was conveyed to Sii' Thomas by the Queen in exchange for the
manors of Langton and Wiberton, in Lincolnshire. He rebuilt the manor-house in a most
magnificent style about 1588, and having succeeded to his father's title in 1598, he
entertained his royal mistress during three days of the following year at his new house in
Wimbledon, after which she removed to Nonsuch.* In 1605 this nobleman was created
Earl of Exeter, and at his death in 1622 he left this estate to his third son, Sir Edward
Cecil, raised to the peerage by Charles I., by the titles of 13aron of Putney and Viscount
Wimbledon. He died at Wimbledon in 1638, and his daughters and coheii-esses sold the
manor to the Earl of Holland and others, who acted as trustees for the Queen Henrietta
Maria. While it belonged to the Queen she and her royal consort sometimes resided at
this place, and the mansion is mentioned among the possessions of the Crown in an
inA'entory of the jewels and pictm-es of Charles I. referred to by Walpole. After the
suppression of the monarchy, the Crown lands being set to sale by the Parliament, this
+ " Progresses," Queen Elizabeth, vol. ii. In the churchwardens' accounts at Kingston is this entry, 1599 ; — " Paid
for mending the ■n'aj'es when tlie Queen went from Wimbledon to Nonsuch, 20d."
22 2 HISTORY OF SURREY.
estate, valued at £386 19s. 8d. a year, was purchased by Adam Baynes, of Knowstrop,
iu the county of York, at eighteen years' purchase. It was afterwards sokl to the
Parliamentary general, John Lambert, who, as appears from the Coui't Eolls, was lord of
the manor in 1656.*
On the restoration of Charles II. the Queen-mother recovered her estates ; and in 1661
she sold Wimbledon to George Digby, Earl of Bristol, who, dying in 1676, devised it to
his widow, from whom it was purchased by Thomas Osborne, Earl of Danby, the Lord
Treasurer, afterwards Marquis of Carmarthen and Duke of Leeds. He died in 1712, and
the trustees under his will, authorised by a decree of Chancery, sold the manor in 1717 to
Sir Theodore Janssen, Bart., a director of the South Sea Company. Shortly afterwards he
began to pull down the mansion of the Cecils, intending to replace it by a new one ; but,
before that could be finished, his estates were seized and sold, with those of other directors,
for the benefit of the many persons ruined by the nefarious speculations connected with
the management of the above company. Wimbledon was then purchased for £15,000 by
the celebrated Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, by whom, at her decease in 1744, it was
devised, with Chilworth and other estates, to John Spencer, M.P. for Woodstock, youngest
son of Charles, Earl of Sunderland, by her Grace's second daughter. Lady Anne Churchill.
He died in 1746, when this property devolved on John, his only son, created Baron and
Viscount Spencer in 1701, and Earl Spencer and Yiscount Althorp in 1765; and from
him it has descended to John Poyntz, fifth and present Earl Spencer.
The mansion of the Cecils, in Wimbledon Park, was of a very sumptuous character,
consisting of a centre, with spacious wings extending at right angles, and having square
pavilions at the inner corners surmounted by high turrets, each pj^amidically roofed, and
terminated "by two faier gilded wether-cocks, perspicuous to the countrie round
about." t Puller calls it "a daring structure," and remarks that " by some it has been
thought to equal if not to exceed Nonsuch." An avenue of elms and other trees, 231
perches in length, led from Putney Heath, through the park, to the house. The latter
stood upon the brow of the hill, and had two courts on the ascent in front, the uppermost
rising about 12 or 14 feet above the other.
* It is stated by Roger Coke, iu his " Detection of the Com-t and State," that Lambert, after he had been " discarded
by Cromwell, betook himself to Wimbledon-house, where he turned florist, and had the finest tulips and gilliflowers that
could be got for love or money ; yet in these outward pleasures he nourished the ambition which he entertained before he
was cashiered by Cromwell." He also amused himself with painting flowers, in which art he attained considerable skill :
according to Walpole, some specimens of his pictorial ability were for many years preserved at Wimbledon.
t In the tenth volume of the Archccologia is a minute account of the house and premises, copied from the original
survey made by order of Parliament in 1049, and preserved in the Augmentation Office : there are also prints
extant, though extremely scarce, both of the principal front and the garden front, which have been copied for Lysons's
" Environs."
WIMBLEDOX. J23
111 a survey made by order of rarliameut in 1(J4'J the house is described to be of
" excellent good brick," and "the angles, wiudow-staunchions, and jainbs, are all of ashler
stone." It comprised a basement and two upper stories, with numerous apartments
singularly and curiously ornamented.* The surveyors valued the house at £150 per
annum, and reported the materials to be worth £2,840 7s. lid.
Wlien the Duchess of Marlborough became its owner she pulled down the unfiiiisliod
house which Sii* Theodore Janssen had raised (and on which £4,000 had been expended),
and built a new mansion upon the north side of the eminence on AvhicL. the present house
stands ; but not liking its aspect, she caused it to be taken down, aud had another built in
a ftir preferable situation on tlie south side.f That building was entirely destroyed by an
accidental fire on Easter Monday, 1785, after which some of the offices were fitted up for
the occasional residence of Earl Spencer's familj'. The present house, completed in ISOl,
from designs by Holland, has no particular characteristics requiring notice. Its situation is
remarkably fine : on the south it commands extensive prospects over Surrey and Kent,
and on the north the home scenery of the park, which was planted and laid out with
much taste by " Capability " Browne, affords some beautiful views. This mansion, with
its surrounding grounds, was long occupied bj- the Spencers, the Duke of Somerset, &c.
In 1838 her Majesty Queen Victoria Avas entertained at Wimbledou Park Ilouse by the
* Many of these apartments are particularly descrilieil in the survey, from which a few extracts are subjoined. On
the ground floor was a room called the Blone, Gallery : this was 108 feet long, and " pillared and arched with gray marble,
waynscotted with oake, varnished with greene, and spotted with starrs of gold." In the midst was " a grotto WTOught in
the arch and sides thereof with sundry sorts of shells of great lustre and ornament, formed into the shapes of men, lyons,
serpents, antick formc:?, and other rare devices ; ■'' also " fortie sights of seeing-glass sett together in one frame, much
adorning and setting forth the splendour of the roome." Both the hall, in which was " a table of one intire piece of
wood 21 feet long, and 6 inches thick, and a fayer and riche payer of organs," and the chapel were paved with black and
white marble, aud " painted with landskips." On the first floor were the King's Chamber and the Queen's Chamber ; and
another stone gallery 62 feet long, having " many compendious sentences" upon the walls. The Great Gallery on the
second floor was 109 feet 8 inches long, and 21 feet broad : this was " floored with cedar-boards, casting a pleasant smell,
—and in the middle thereof a very faire and large chimney-piece of black and white marble ingraved with coates of
armes and adorned with several curious and well-guilded statues of alabaster." The Summer Chamber, 45 feet long and
20 feet broad, was also floored with cedar, and " seeled with fret-work, in the midst of which was a picture of good work-
manship representing a flying angel." At each end of the house was a staircase 20 feet square, the westernmost
containing eighty-two steps. " These staires were adorned -with one large pictiire of Henry TV., of France, in amies, on
Horseback, set in a large frame, placed at the head thereof, and with land.?kipps of battayles, anticks, heaven aud hell, and
other curious works ; and under the staires a little compleate room called the Den of Lyons, painted round with lyons
and leopards." In the Orangc-rie were forty-two orange-trees in boxes valued at £10 each ; a lemon-tree, "bearing greate
and very large lemmons," valued at £20 ; a " pome-citron tree," valued at £\Q ; sbc " pome-granet trees," at £'i each ;
and "eighteen young orange trees," at £a each. In the several gardens, which were laid out in knots, mazes, wilder-
nesses, &c., was a great variety of fruit trees, among which was every sort now cultivated, except the nectarine.
+ The designs for both houses were made by the Earl of Burlington, the most successful architectural amateur of his
time. Views of the south and north fronts, and plans of the offices aud prmcipal floors, are given in the lifth volume of
the " Vitruvius Britannicus," which states that the chief apartments, and p.articularly the .saloon, were ornamented with
some very capital pictures, " among which are the stories of Apollo rewarcUng Merit, and Apollo flaying Marsya*, both by
Guido, and esteemed capital pieces of that master."
2 2^ HISTORY OF SURREY.
Duke and Duchess of Somerset. The manor has remained in the possession of Earl
Spencer's family down to the present time; but in 1846 the mansion and surrounding
park and estates were sold to John A. Beaumont, Esq., who had a few years previously
purchased a considerable portion of the estate on the side nearest Putney. The whole of
the estate has since been sold to a company for building purposes. In its entire state it
comprised about 1,200 acres, of considerable diversity of surface, with a fine expanse of
water covering 50 acres. The manor-house is still standing, and has been considerably
improved and beautified since it was purchased by Mr. Beaumont.
Advowson, &c. — Henry YIII., after the exchange with Archbishop Cranmer men-
tioned before, granted the advowson, right of patronage, &c., of the church and parsonage
of Wymbylton, and its annexed chapels in Surrey, to the Dean and Chapter of Worcester,
to hold in frank-almoign, but reserving a rent of £3 10s. 9^d. to the office of first-fruits and
tenths ; and Edward VI., soon after his accession, confirmed this grant to the Dean and
Chapter, with license to appropriate. Since then the patronage has been usually granted
on leases of three lives to the lords of the manor, the lessees covenanting, among other
charges, to keep the chancels of Wimbledon, Putney, and Mortlake, and the parsonage-
house at Wimbledon, in repair.* This living is in the diocese of Eochester, rural deanery
of Barnes, and archdeaconry of Southwark, and is valued at 60 marks in the Yalor of
20 Edward I. In the King's books its value is stated at £35 2s. lid., paying 6s. 8d.
for procurations and synodals. In the Kegister of biu'ials, Avhich commences in 1593, is
the following entry : —
Francis Trevor, aged 103, was buried February 8, I778.t
Vicars of Wimbledon in and since 1800 : —
1.— Herbert Randolph, B.D. Instituted in 1777.
2. — Henry Lindsay, M.A. Instituted in 1819.
3. — Richard Leonard Adams, M.A. Instituted in 1846.
4. — Henry William Haygarth, M.A. Instituted in 1859.
Adjoining the main entrance to Wimbledon Park House, about a quarter of a mile from
the village, is the parish church, dedicated to St. Mary, and which had its origin in the
Saxon times ; but of the church mentioned in the Doomsday Book not a vestige remains.
* Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. iii. p. 272.
t Among the entries is recorded the birth, on Saturday, the IStli day of July, 1616, " about half an hour before
10 of the clocke," a.m., of the Lady Qeorgi-Anna, daughter of Thomas, Earl of Exeter, and the Lady Frances, his countess.
She was baptized on the 30th of the same month, " Queen Amie [of Denmark], and the Earl of Worcester, Lord Privy
Seal, being witnesses."
WIMBLEDON. 225
Except the chancel, supposed to be a work of the fourteenth century, the present structun;
was entii-ely rebuilt in 1833 and 1834, from the designs of Messrs. Scott and Moffatt. Its
cost was about £6,000, which was defrayed partly by subscription and partly by loan,
and the chiu-ch was reopened for divine worship in 1834. It is a handsome composition
in the perpendicular style of pointed architectui'e, consisting of nave and aisles, with a
weU-proportioned square tower of four stories at the west end, sm-mounted by a lofty
spire and weather-cock. The walls and buttresses are faced with flint within stone dress-
ings, but the window and door frames, &c., are all of the latter material. The chief
entrance is from the tower, above which is an elegant window ; and there arc five similar
windows on either side of the church, of thi-ee principal divisions each, cinquefoil-headed,
with smaller lights above. The nave is separated from the aisles by light piers, from
which spring five pointed arches on each side. The fi-amework of the roof is of oak : the
rafters are supported by brackets resting upon corbels. Spacious galleries extend over
the aisles and west end of the nave, and above the western gallery is an organ loft or
singing gallery, containing a fine-toned organ by Walker, presented to the church by
James Courthorpe Peach, Esq., of Belvidere House, an adjacent seat. Above the arch
separating the nave from the cliancel are the arms of Queen Victoria in artificial stone,
the gift of Mrs. Marry at, of Wimbledon Ilouse. The font, of stone, and octagonal in
form, was given by H. Bowden, Esq. In 1860 the chancel was restored by the Eccle-
siastical Commissioners.
In the east window are various shields of arms in stained glass, exhibiting the bearings
of Sii- Thomas Cecil, afterwards Earl of Exeter ; of Thomas, first Duke of Leeds ; and of
the Spencer family. Lysons has delineated the figure of an ancient crusader, which was
in a window on the north side, completely armed, with a spear in his right hand, and a
shield with the cross of St. George upon his left arm.
On the south of the chancel is a small chapel erected by Edward, Viscount Wimble-
don, in the reign of James L, as a burial-place for himself and family. In the middle
space is an altar tomb, with an inscription on the verge, and others on each side, recording
the descent and various offices of the deceased, both civil and niilitary. His armour is
arranged in detached portions round the chapel, and over his tomb is a viscount's coronet
suspended by a chain. He died at Wimbledon in 1638.
Under the south gallery is a monument by Westmacott, erected at the expense of the
Fox Club, in memory of Mr. James Perry, and as a testimony of hia zeal, courage, and
ability in defence of public liberty. He was for many years both proprietor and editor of
the Morning Chronicle, and is rei^resented by a small whole-length figiu'c in white marble,
VOL. III. , G G
226 HISTORY OF SURREY.
seated at a table with papers before liini. He was born in 1756, and died in 1821, baying
long been resident in this parish. Over the north gallery are tablets in commemoration of
the late Ji;dge, Sir James Allan Park, and of Sir William Beaumaris Kiish.
In the churchyard are numerous tombs and other sepulchral memorials of a superior
kind to those generally raised. One of the most remarkable is a columbarium erected by
Benjamin Bond Hopkins, Esq., formerly of Wimbledon House and Pains Hill, in
which he himself lies interred with others of his family. He died in 1794. Another
mausoleum, like a pyramid, encloses the remains of Gerard de Visme, Esq., who died in
1797. In front is a sculpture of his arms and the sentence, *' Sepulchrvm hoc Gerardvs
de Yisme pro Se et Svis Extrvxit." The memory of Margaret, Countess of Luean,
who died in 1814, relict of the first Earl of Lucan, is preserved by an Ionic column
surmounted by an urn, and that of the Lady George Quin by a handsome Grecian monu-
ment: she died in 1823. Among the other tombs is that covering the vault of John
Hopkins, Esq., of London, who died in 1732, This was the person whom Pope, in his
"Moral Essays," has consigned to an unenviable fame by the epithet "Yulture"
Hopkins, from his grasping practices in the acquirement of wealth.
Christ Church was erected in 1859, and Holy Trinity Church in 1862. At
Eidgeway is a proprietary chapel dedicated to Emmanuel, and on Spencer Hill there is
a temporary church holding about 450 worshippers. There are also several places of
worship for Dissenters.
There are in the parish eight almshouses, and the charities for distribution amount to
about £100 annually. On Copse Hill is the Atkinson Morley Convalescent Hospital.
It was erected in 1867, and is endowed from property left by the late Mr. Atkinson
Morley for the purpose of receiving and maintaining the convalescent poor patients from
St. George's Hospital, the corporation of which institution has the sole management and
control of this Hospital.
On the high ground at the south-west of Wimbledon Common, and about a mile and
a half from Kingston Hill, is an ancient entrenchment which the country-people call
the Pounds, an appellation by which it has been known for a long series of years,*
though of late it has been introduced into some of oiu' maps by the name of Csesar's
Camp. In Camden's time it was called Bensbury, which that writer supposed to be
derived from Cnebha's-hury, Cnebba and Oslac, two of the principal generals of Ethelbert,
King of Kent, having been slain in the battle fought at Wibandune (or Wimbledon)
between that sovereign and Ceaulin, King of the West Saxons. Its area comprises about
* Vide Salmon's " Antiquities of Surrey," p. 31, under Wimbledon.
WIMBLEDOy. 227
7 acres of grouud, and is to a considerable extent overgrown by prickly furze. It
is crossed by a cart road leading towards Combe Lane and Kingston, and on one side
appears to have been defended by outworks. It is not exactly circular, but inclines to
an oval form. The snrrounding ditch, which is from 8 or 10 to about 15 feet deep, is
partially overshadowed by scrubby oaks.
The origin of this encampment has been attributed to the Britons, the Eomans,
the Saxons, and the Danes : probably it was originally a British stronghold, subsequently
occupied by soldiers of the other nations in succession.
Several antiquities, apparently Eoman, have been found in this vicinity. Dr. Eoots,
of Surbiton, was strongly of opinion that Csesar crossed the Thames at Kingston,
anciently Moreford, or the Great Ford — at least with his infantry, and that he occupied
this entrenchment whilst preparing for the conflict. He imagined the fierce struggle
with the troops of Cassivelaunus to have taken place on the Middlesex banks of the
river immediately above Kingston, where many relics of a warlike description have been
found by the ballast-heavers, similar to those discovered in this neighbourhood. There
is an ancient track called the Eidgeway, extending from "Wimbledon in a south-west
direction along an elevated brow, and leading through a wood into Combe Lane.
"Wimbledon House. — In the last century this estate belonged to Benjamin Bond
Hopkins, the inheritor of the riches of his maternal relative, John Hopkins, whose
burial-place has recently been noticed. "Wliilst in his possession the grounds were laid
out and a cascade and grotto constructed under the dii'ection of the celebrated Bushell,
by whom the more elaborate grottoes on Pains Hill and Oatlands were designed. Sub-
sequentty, and on his own removal to Pains Hill, Mr. Bond sold the estate to Mens, do
Calonne, Comptroller General of the French Finances before the Eevolution in 1789 ; and
that gentleman, about 1791, resold this property to Earl Gower for .£15,000. The Prince
de Conde was afterwards an occupant of it ; but eventually this estate was purchased by
Joseph Marryat, Esq., M.P., a West India merchant, who died suddenly in 1824.
The late celebrated novelist, Capt. Marryat, was Mr. Marryat's son. "Wimbledon House is
now the seat of Sir Henry "W. Peek, Bart., M.P.
Douglas, in his " Na3nia Britannica," speaks of a group of ancient barrows formerly
to be seen on "Wimbledon Common. They were " about twenty-three in number, situated
on the left side of the high-road from London to Kingston, at a small distance from
Mr. Hartley's Fire-house, but on the other side of the road." Most of the lai'gest (none
of which exceeded 28 feet in diameter) were said to have been opened by a person from
London, supposed to have been Dr. Stukcley, about twenty- eight years before Mr. Douglas
G G 2
228 HISTORY OF SURREY.
opened the remainder, wHcli appears to have been in 1786. His researches were little
successful, the only relic which he found being "a small vessel of dark-brown greyish
earth, 3 inches in height, and 3 inches in diameter." He also mentions " a very large
barrow of the more ancient class," as remaining at about 5 furlongs from the group.*
All of them were afterwards remorselessly swept away to mend the roads.
In May, 1789, a hostile meeting took place on Wimbledon Common between his Eoyal
Highness the Duke of York and Lieut.-Col. Lennox. The Duke received the colonel's
fire, which grazed his hair ; but, as he declined to fire in return, the proceedings terminated.
In May, 1807, a duel was fought here by Sir Francis Burdett and John Paull, Esq., in
which both parties were wounded, though not dangerously. In September, 1810,
Mr. George Payne, a person of considerable fortune, was mortally wounded on the
common in a duel with Mr. Clark, with whose sister he had formed an improper attach-
ment. He died at the Eed Lion, Putney, two days afterwards. In June, 1839, the
Marquis of Londonderry and Mr. Henry Grattan, M.P., had a meeting here, when the
latter, after receiving his opponent's fire, fired into the air, and the duel ended.
Another duel was fought near the mill on the 21st of September, 1840, between the
Earl of Cardigan and Capt. Harvey Garnett Phipps Tuckett, in which the latter was
grievously wounded by a shot beneath the ribs. The Earl was tried by the House of
Peers for this offence in February, 1841 ; but, from a deficiency of proof as to the identity
of the person wounded with the Captain Tuckett named in the indictment (though it
was impossible conscientiously to doubt it), the Earl was pronounced "not guilty."
This was almost the last duel fought in England.
Every summer, in July, Wimbledon Common is the scene of the annual meeting of the
National Eifle Association. The old windmill has been converted into its head-quarters,
and the greatest interest is yearly evinced by thousands of all classes in the various
shooting matches for such prizes as the Elcho Shield, the Queen's Prize, or the Shield
shot for by our great public schools, together with the spirited rifle match between
members of the Houses of Lords and Commons.
* Douglas, " Na^nia Britannica," p. 93, plate 23.
HUNDEED OF WALLINGTON, OR CROYDON.
PARISHES IN THE FIRST DIVISION :
CEOYDOX.— ADDINGTON.— CHALDON.— COULSDON.— SANDEESTEAD.— WOODMANSTEENE.
SECOND DH'ISION :
BEDDINGTON, WITH WALLINGTON HAMLET.— CAESnALTON.—CHEAM.—
MITCHAM.—MOEDON.— SUTTON.
ALLINGTON hundred, sometimes called the hundred
of Croydon, from its principal to'wu, is styled in the
Doomsday Book Waletoii, and now Wallington, from
a place in the parish of Beddington sujiposcd to
have been a Koman settlement. This division of the
county is bounded on the north by the hundred of
Brixton, on the east by the county of Kent, ou the
i.^i^'^] ''Outh by the hundreds of Tandridgc and Eeigate,
''M&^^^SiE^'^^^^^^ ancl on the west by Copthorne and Kingston.
In 20 Pvichard II. the Prior of Bermondsey obtained a grant, under letters-patent,
of the right of return and execution of the King's writs in this hundred, as well as in that
of Brixton, and the privilege was confirmed in 23 Henry VI, When a Commission of
Array was issued in 36 Henry VIII. "for the preparacion and fiirnyshyng of 400
able men, with their Capitaynes," in the county of Surrey, for the King's service in the
wars with France and Scotland, the quota required from the hundred of "Wallington
consisted of four archers and twenty billmen.
This parish is bounded on the north by Lambeth and Streatham ; on the east by
Penge, the parishes of Beckenham and West Wickham in Kent, and that of Addington
in Surrey; on the south by Addington, Sanderstead, and Coulsdon; and on the west by
230 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Beddington and Mitcham. It is no less than thii-ty-six miles in circumference ; and the soil
yaries greatly in different parts of it, consisting of chalk, gravel, sand, clay, and peat.
Lysons mentions a large chalk-pit, about a mile from the town, near the road to
Addington, which afforded a great variety of extraneous fossils. The river Wandle rises
in the lower part of the town, near the church.
Croydon is a place of great antiquity.* That part now called High Street was formerly
only a bridle road through fields. The old or lower town, called Old Croydon, was
situated farther from London towards Beddington, and there were ruins of it remaining
in 1783. Gale, in his Commentary on the " Itinerary " of Antoninus, says that a Eoman
road passed through Old Croydon from Woodcote to Streatham ; and the first-mentioned
place has been supposed by some antiquaries to be the site of the station called Noviomagus.
Both Camden and Gale notice a tradition that there was anciently a royal palace westward
of the town, next Haling. f
* Respecting the etymology of its name we have no positive information. Its ancient orthography is various.
Camden, from the Saxon, writes Gradidon ; others have it Croindene, Crondon, Croiden, &o. Within oux own recollec-
tion, though ^vritten Croydon, it was usually, especially by the common people, pronounced Craydou. As there is no
chalk in Surrey before we reach Croydon from the metropolis, the name is thought by some to be derived from the old
Norman or French word craye, or craie, chalk, and the Anglo-Saxon dun, a hill, indicating a town near the chalk bill.
Others, though less satisfactorily, derive the name from crone, sheep, and dene, a valley.
t In the reign of Queen Elizabeth " the streets were deep hollow ways, and very dirty ; the houses generally with
wooden steps into them, — and the inhabitants in general were smiths and colliers ; " that is, charcoal-burners, a calling
for which they have been celebrated by several of our early poets.
In the ancient tragedy of Locrine occurs the well-known distich —
" The Colliers of Croydon,
The Rustics of Roydon ; "
and there is a comedy, -nTitten in 1662, entitled Ch-im, the Collier of Croydon, or the Devil and his Dame, &c. Those
who are here called colliers would in our time be called charcoal-bavrners, for that was evidently their trade, as may be
evinced by the following extracts from a very scarce satirical and descriptive poem written by P. Haimay, gent., and
published about the time of the restoration of Charles II. : —
" In midst of these stands Croydon, cloth'd in blacke.
In a low bottome sink of all these hills ;
And is receipt of all the durtie wracke,
'V^Tiich from their tops still in abundance trills ;
The unpav'd lanes with muddie mire it fills :
If one shower falls, or if that blessing stay.
You well may scent, but never see your way.
And those that there inhabit, suiting well
With such a place, doe either Nigros seeme,
Or harbingers for Pluto, prince of Hell ;
Or his fire-beaters one might rightly deeme :
Their sight would make a soul of hell to di'eame ;
Besmear'd with sut, and breathing pitchie smoake.
Which, save themselves, a living wight would choke. [These,
Croydon is seldom mentioned in liistoiy, and the events relating to it are of little
importance. lu 1261 a body of troops who had fought under the Earl of Leicester,
consisting of Londoners, on returning home after the battle of Lewes, having taken
up their quarters at Croydon, were attacked by the disbanded Eoyalists who had formed
the gai-rison of Tunbridge Castle, when many of them were killed, and the assaihuits
obtained a great booty.*
In 1286 "William "Warren, son and heir of John "Warren, Earle of Surrey, in a
turneament at Croyden, was by the challenger intercepted, and cruelly slaine."t
In 1550 Grig, a poulterer of Surrey, regarded among the people as a prophet, in
curing divers diseases by words and prayers, and saying he would take no money, was, by
commandment of the Earl of "Warwick and others of the King's Council, set on a scaffold
in the town of Croydon, with a paper on his breast, wherein were written his deceitful and
hypocritical dealings. He was afterwards put in the pillory at Southwark during the
Lady Day fair. J
Stow says that in 1551 an earthquake was felt at Croydon and several neighbouring
places. EuUer, in his " Church History of Britain," after mentioning the Black Assizes at
Oxford in 1577, adds, "The like chanced some foiu' years since (1652 ?) at Croydon in
Sm-rey, where a great depopulation happened at the assizes of persons of quality, and the
two judges. Baron Yates, and Baron Eigby, died a few days after." Mr. Lysons remarks
that it does not appear by the Eegister that there was any groat mortality at Croydon
about that time.§ The plague visited this town in 1603, and in that year and the nest
158 persons died of it: the disease proved fatal to many people here also in 1625,
1026, 1631, 1665, and 1666.
In 1728 so violent a storm of hail and rain, with thunder and lightning, fell at
Croydon as to strike the hailstones, which were from 8 to 10 inches round, some inches
into the earth. The cattle were forced into the ditches and drowned, windows were
shattered, and great damage done. Considerable damage in and near Croydon was also
done by a storm of thunder and lightning in 1744. ||
Theise, with the Demi-gods still disagreeing,
(As vice with virtue ever is at Jarre,)
With all who in the pleasant woods have being,
Doe undertake an everlasting warre,
Cut do\vn their groves, and often doe them skarre ;
And in a close pent fire their arbours burne
While— as the Muses can do nought but moume."
* Matt. Paris, " Hist. Angl." Contiu. p. 964. + Stow, Chron. p. 311.
t Stow, p. 1020. § "Environs," p. 172. || Steiiiman, "Croydon," pp. 28, 29.
232 HISTORY OF SURREY.
This parish contains the hamlets of Addiscombe, Croham, Coombe, Haling, Shirley, ■
Woodside, Waddon, Thornton Heath, and Broad Green ; the manors of Waddon, Bencham
(or Whitehorse), Norbmy, Haling, and Croham, and a part of that of Norwood. Within
the parish and manor of Croydon are seven boroughs, namely, Coombe, Selsdon, Bencham
or Bunchesham, Addiscombe, Woodside, Shirley, and Croham. It lies within the district
of the Metropolitan Police, and is the head of a Union and County Court district.
Manor of Ceotdon.— The manor of Croydon is thus described in the Doomsday Book
among the lands of the Archbishop of Canterbury : — " In the hundred of Waleton
(Wallington) Archbishop Lanfranc holds Croindene in demesne. In the time of King
Edward, it was assessed at 80 hides : now at 16 hides, and 1 virgate. The arable land
amounts to 20 carucates. There are in the demesne 4 carucates ; and forty-eight villains,
and twenty-five bordars, with 34 carucates. There is a chm-ch ; and one mill, at 5s. ; and
8 acres of meadow. The wood yields two hundred swine. Of the land belonging to this
manor, Eestold holds of the Archbishop 7 hides ; and Ealph 1 hide ; and thence they have
£7 8s. rent. The whole manor, in the time of King Edward, was valued at £12 : now at
£27 to the Archbishop; and £10 10s. to his men."
This manor is said to have been given by William I. to Archbishop Lanfi-anc, who is
supposed to have founded the archiepiscopal palace, though Eobert Kilwardby is the first
prelate who is certainly known to have resided at Croydon. He resigned the metropolitan
dignity on being made a Cardinal in 1278, and went to Eome, leaving the castles and
mansions belonging to the see in such a dilapidated state that Archbishop Peckham, his
successor, found it necessary to expend 3,000 marks in repairs, though it is uncertain
what part of this sum may have been laid out at Croydon. The manor continued to
belong to the see of Canterbury until the troubles of the seventeenth century, when the
revenues of the archbishopric were seized by the Parliament. The annual value of the
manor, palace, and land was then estimated at £275, exclusive of the timber.
Archiepiscopal Palace. — There is no evidence that any Archbishop of Canterbury
resided at Croydon before Kilwardby above mentioned ; but it may be concluded that he
had a palace or mansion here, as he dates hence, in 1273, a mandate for holding a
Convocation at the New Temple in London.* Several succeeding prelates, in the same
and the following century, were occasionally resident here; among them Archbishop
Courtenay, who received the pall in the principal chamber, or great hall, of his manor of
Croydon, in 1382.t Thomas Arundel, the next archbishop, probably built the guard-
chamber, as his arms were displayed in the interior. Cardinal Stafford, who obtained
* Wilkiiis, " Concilia," vol. ii. p. 2G. t Eegist. Courtiiei. f. 9, a.
the see in 1443, resided during his primacy chiefly at Croydon and Lambctli: he citluT
built or repaired the great hall. Archbishop Cranmcr also appears to have repaired the
palace. In his time Croydon became the scene of the judicial examination of John
Frith,* accused of heresy before Cromwell, Cranmer, and others, for maintaining certain
doctrines, which the Archbishop himself secretly, and afterwards openly, professed. Fritli,
refusing to recant, was burnt in Sraithfield in 1534.
Archbishop Parker entertained Queen Elizabeth at his palace of Croydon for seven
days in 1573, and there is reason to believe that she visited the palace again in the
ensiling year. Miss Agnes Strickland writes, in her " Lives of the Queens of England,"
" The learned primate, his comptroller, secrettu-ics, and chamberers, were at their wits'
ends, where and how to find sleeping accommodation for her majesty, and her numerous
train of ladies and officers of state, on this occasion. There is a pitiful note, signed
J. Bowyer, appended to the list of these illustrious guests, for whom suitable dormitories
could not be assigned, in which he says, 'For the queen's waiters, I cannot find any
convenient rooms to place them in, but I will do the best I can to place them elsewhere ;
but if it will please you, sir, that I do remo-\'e them, the grooms of the privy chamber, nor
jNIr. Drury, have no other way to theii- chambers but to pass through that where my lady
Oxford should come. I cannot then tell where to place Mr. Ilatton ; and for my lady
Carewe, there is no place with a chimney for her, but that she must lay abroad by
Mrs. A. Parry and the rest of the privy chamber. For Mrs. Shelton, there are no rooms
with a chimney ; I shall stay one chamber without for her. Here is as mucli as I am
able to do in this house. From Croydon.' "t
In 1587 Sir Chi-istopher Ilatton was appointed Lord Chancellor, on the recommenda-
tion of Whitgift, and the great seal was delivered to him in the gallery of the 2)alace at
Croydon.
During the interregnum the palace and lands were let for £40 a year to Charles,
Earl of Nottingham, who held on lease the manor of Haling also, after which, in 1C46,
* See Fox's "Acts and Monuments," vol. iii. p. 192; Stow, Chronicle, p. 962. This was by no means the only
occasion on which Cranmer acted as the subservient instrument of a lawless tyrant. Bishop BurncI, one of the chief
Protestant writers who have laboured to place his character in a favourable point of view, has erroneously stated tliat he
retired to Croydon when the Bill of Attainder ag.iinst the Duke of Norfolk passed in Parliament ; and Hume, heedlessly
following Burnet, says, " Cranmer, though engaged for many years in an opposite party to Norfolk, and though he had
received many and great injuries from him, would have no hand in so unjust a prosecution ; and he retired to his seat in
Croydon." But a recent historian more correctly asserts that Cranmer, after being present in the House of Lords on the
three several days on which the iniquitous Bill against the Duke was read [as well as on the day it received the royal
assent by commission, viz. January 27th, 38 Henry VIII.], had retreated for quiet to Croydon, where he was when he
received a summons to attend his royal master in his Last agonies. (See Lingard's " England," vol. iv. p. 354 ; and
"Pictorial History of England," vol. ii. p. A51.)
+ Sloane MS. 1—4, 160, n. 217.
VOL. HI. H H
2 34 HISTORY OF SURREY.
the commissioners of the Parliament granted the estate to Sii- Wm. Breretou, Bart., who
had been a general officer during the civil war, and was one of the Council of State
appointed under the Protectorate in 1652.*
After the Eestoration Ai'chbisliop Juxon repaired and restored the palace, and several
of his successors expended considerable sums on the building, especially Dr. Herring, by
whom it was vastly improved and adorned. This prelate was the last who resided at
Croydon ; and the palace being deserted and becoming dilapidated, in 1780 an Act of
Parliament was obtained, by which the premises were vested in trustees for sale. In the
preamble it is alleged that the palace was in a low, unwholesome situation, and so
incommodious as to be unfit for the residence of the archbishops, and that certain funds
existed which might be appropriated to the erection or purchase of a more suitable
mansion. The fee-simple of the estate was consequently sold by auction, in 1780, to
Mr. (afterwards Sir) Abraham Pitches for £2,520, and the mansion and estate of Addington
Park were bought in lieu of it. The palace was then turned into an establishment for
printing linens ; the garden was made a bleaching ground ; and the demesne having been
subsequently resold in lots, the buildings were converted into separate dwellings. f
Croydon Park, or Park Hill. — This estate was held by the Archbishops of
Canterbury till the time of Henry VIII., when Cranmer surrendered it to the King in
exchange for other lands ; but it was restored to him by a grant of Edward VI. The
office of Keeper of Croydon Park was granted, for life or terms of years, to various
individuals at different periods : among them was William "Walworth, Mayor of London,
whose spirited conduct helped to put down tho rebellion under Wat Tyler, in the reign of
Eichard II. Walworth was appointed to the kecpership by Archbishop Courtenay in
1382. The estate has been long divided and built over. J
Manor of Waddon. — This manor, anciently styled Wo(Mens, is situated on the road
to Beddington, about half a mile from the town of Croydon. It formerly belonged to
the Crown, and in 1127 it was given by Henry I. to the monastery of Bermondsey. In
1391 Archbishop Courtenay obtained this estate in exchange for the appropriation of the
church of Croydon, and it has ever since (except during the interregnum) pertained to
the metropolitan see. In the time of Archbishop Parker it was valued at £22 6s. 8d.
* This gentleman was rewarded by the Parliament for liis services with the sequestration of Cashiobury and other
lands of Lord Capel, the chief forestership of Macclesfield, and the stewardship of that hundred, besides the sequestrations
of the lands and tenements pertaining to the see of Canterbury at Croydon. He died in 1661. His having turned the
chapel at Croydon into i\ kitchen wliile he held the palace induced a contemporai-y pamphleteer to remark that he was
" a notable man at a thanksgiving dinner, having terrible long teeth, and a prodigious stomach, to turn the archbishop's
chapel into a kitchen, and to swallow up that palace and lands at a morsel."— Ltsons, Environs, vol. i. p. 175.
t Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 537. t Garrow, "History of Croydon," p. 33.
Manor of Bunciiesham, or Bensuam. — This muiiur lies uortli of tlie tuwii, towards
Norwood.* Peter Chaceport had a grant of frco-warrcu hero iu 87 lleury III. ; and in
1299, 27 Edward I., a similar grant was obtained by Eichard do Gravcsend, Bishop of
London. In 1338 Stephen do Gravcsend, also Bishop of London, died seized of this
manor, -\\-hich he had hold of the Archbishop of Canterbury, as of his manor of Croydon,
for his life, at a rent of 21s. a year, and suit of court. It then comprised a messuage,
200 acres of arable land, 8 acres of meadow, and 20 acres of pasture, with underwood,
besides rents of assize and pleas and perquisites of courts. After repeated transfers to
different persons, the manor, in 41 Edward III., Avas. held by "Walter Whitehorse, the
King's shield-bearer: from him, apparently, it has since been called the Manor of
TMiitehorse.
At length this estate became the propcrtj' of Sir Kobert Morton, nephew of Cardinal
Morton, Archbishop of Canterbury, who died seized of it in C Henry VIII. "William
Morton, Esq., a relative of this gentleman, held it in 15GG ; and Thomas Morton, thc>
grandson of "William, died in 1678, leaving five daughters his coheiresses. The shares ol"
four of these ladies were purchased b}' John Barrett, Esq., iu 1712; and his grandson, to
whom the property descended, bought the fifth share iu 1787, shortly after which he
disposed of the whole to John Cat or, Esq., of Beckcuham, in Kent. It belonged, in 1809,
to John Cator, Esq., nephew of the preceding, who sold it to John Davidson Smith, Esq.
Maxor of Croham. — This manor, likewise named Cronham and Cnmhum, consists of
a messuage aud farm, comprising about 400 acres of arable and wood laud, and it extends
over Croraehurst for about a mile from the town towards the south-east. It forms part of
the endowment of the hospital founded at Croydon by Archbishop Whitgift. Iu 13G8 it
was alienated by a person named Chireton to "Walter "Whitehorse, above mentioned, but
it appears to have reverted to the family of Chireton. It belonged to the CroM'u in the
beginning of the reign of Henry lY., who gave the custodj' of the manor to Wm. Oliver.
Dame Anne Peche held it in the time of Henry VII., and under his successor it belongel
to Sir John Danet, in right of his wife, daughter of Thomas Elyubrigge, Esq. The
manorial estate was afterwards held by Sir Olive Leigh, of Addington, by whom it was
sold to Archbishop "Whitgift.
Manor of Haling. — Haling House is situated at the southern extremity of the town,
in the midst of a pleasant park, the plantations in which formed the subject of a poetical
* The hamlet of Nonvood, one of the most delightful villages in the vicinity of the metropolis, lies partly iu the
parish of Croydon, and partly in Larahetli, Streatham, and Camberwell. It has already been described in our account of
the hundred of Brixton (see ante, p. 115). In a survey dated 1646 it is mentioned as containing " 830 acres, in which
the inhabitants of Croydon have herbage for all manner of cattle, and ma-ttage for swine without stint."
236 HISTORY OF SURREY.
"Epistle from a Grove in Derbyshire to a Grove in Sim-ey," with the answer by
"William Whitehead, formerly Poet-laiireate.*
In the reign of Edward IV. this manor belonged to Thomas Warham, who held it of
the Archbishop of Canterbury at the rent of 21s. O^d. He died about 1478, and the
lease is supposed to have passed to William "Warham, Archdeacon of Canterbury, and
nephew of the primate of that name, from whom Henry YIII. obtained the estate by
exchange. Queen Mary granted the manor to Sir John Gage, K.G., who died seized of
it in 1557, leaving four sons, of whom Eobert, the third, held Haling. He died in 1587,
and was succeeded in this property by his son, John Gage, father of Sir Henry Gage, Knt.,
Colonel in the army and Governor of Oxford, in the service of Charles I., and who lost his
life in a skirmish at Culham, near Abingdon, in 1644. Eobert Gage, uncle of Sir Henry,
was executed as an accomplice in the conspiracy of Babington and others against Queen
Elizabeth in 1586 ; and his brother, John Gage of Haling, incurred imprisonment and
forfeiture for harbouring G. Beesley, a " missionary priest." The manor of Haling, thus
becoming vested in the Crown, was granted on lease, under letters-patent of 34 Elizabeth,
to Charles Howard, Earl of Nottingham, who died here in 1624. Notwithstanding the
proceedings against Mr. Gage, and the consequent forfeiture of his estates, they were
probably restored ; for his son. Sir Henry, having demised the reversion of Haling House
to his father, the latter, in 2 Charles I., alienated it to Chi'istopher Gardiner, Esq., to
whose family it belonged until 1707, when it was conveyed to Edward Stringer, Esq.
That gentleman left it to his widow, and from her it descended to her grandson (by a
second husband), William Parker Hamond, Esq., whose son and heir of the same name
held the estate in 1860. It was for some time in the occupation of James Penleaze, Esq.,
and now in that of Mr. James Watney.
Mange or Norbtjry. — This manor, also called Northborough^ is situated on the western
side of the road to London, extending over a part of Thornton Heath. Nicholas Carew,
of Beddington, Keeper of the Privy Seal, in 48 Edward III. obtained a grant of free-warren
* The following lines may serve as a specimen of the versification : —
" I envy not, I swear and vow,
The temples or the shades of Stow ;
Nor Java's groves, whose arms display
Their blossoms to the rising day ;
Nor Chili's woods, whose fruitage gleams,
Ruddy beneath his setting beams ;
Nor Teneriflfa's forests shaggy.
Nor China's varying Sharawaggi :
Nor all that has been sung or said
Of Pindus, or of Windsor's shade."
CRornox. 237
for all his lands iu Croydon, and died in 1391, seized, inter alia, of the manor of Norbury.
It remained in the possession of the Carews until the attainder and execntion of
Sii" Nicholas Carew in 1539,* and Henry VIII. annexed it to the honour of Ilampton
Court. Edward VI., in 1547, granted this manor, together Avith Pyrle Mead iu Croydon,
to the Archbishop of Canterbury, in exchange for other landed property ; but Queen Mary
restored to Sir Francis Carc\y the forfeited estates of his father. From this gentleman
Norbury, with Beddington, &c., descended to Admiral Su- Benjamin Hallowell Carew,
G.C.B., whose son, Capt. Charles II. Carew, K.N., possessed it until he sold his paternal
property.f Norbury House is now the residence of William Goldsmith, Esq.
The manors, or reputed manors, of Ham, Palmers, and Selhurst are now incorporated
with the principal manor of Croydon, belonging to the Archbishop of Canterbury. The
manor or estate called Ham, situated on the eastern side of the parish towards Beckenham,
was granted by Queen Mary to Anthony Browne, Viscount Montague, and in 1809 it
belonged to Lord Gwydyr, who inherited it from his grandfather, Peter Burrell, Esq., of
Beckenham. if
Addiscoiube. — This place, formerly called Adjcomb and Adscomh, is about one mile
and a half from the town of Croydon on the road to Wickham. In the reign of
Heniy VIII. this estate belonged to Thomas Heron, who died in 1518, leaving two sons,
who held it in succession. Sir Nicholas Heron, the younger, died in 1568, and was
interred in Heron's Chapel in the parish church. Addiscombe afterwards became the
residence of Sir John Tunstal, Gentleman Usher to Anne of Denmark, consort of James I. ;
and his eldest son, Heniy, who dwelt here, was in 1647 appointed one of the Committee
of Inquiry concerning the conduct of the clergy in Surrey. Sir Piu-beck Temple, Knt., a
member of the Privy Council of Charles II., held this estate ; and, as he died without issue
in 1695, it came into the possession of his widow, who died in 1700, having left Addis-
combe to her nephew, William Draper, son-ia-law of the celebrated John Evelyn.§ Mr.
Draper rebuilt the mansion in 1702, the masonry consisting of brickwork cased with
Portland stone. Sir John Vanbrugh is said to have been the architect, and the walls and
ceilings of the staircase and saloon were ornamented by the pencil of Sii- James Thornliill.
In the course of the eighteenth century Addiscombe House was successively occupied by
the Lord Chancellor Talbot, who died here in 1737 ; by Lord Grantham, who died in
1786 ; and by Charles Jenkinson, first Earl of Liverpool, who had a lease of the estate
for life, and died in 1808.
* See Account of Beddington. t Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 541 ; Steinman, pp. 36 — 38.
t Manning, «. s. p. 544. § See Evelyn's " Diary," and Steinman's " Croydon," pp. 50, 51.
238 lilSrORY OF SURREi:
The Addiscombc estate had previously become the property of Charles Clarke, Esq.,.
through an heiress of the Draper family ; and his grandson, Charles John Clarke, lost his
life in consequence of the fall of a scaffold at Paris, ■svhither he had gone after the peace of
Amiens. He was married, but, as he left no issue, his estates devolved on his sister,
Anne Millicent Clarke, wife of Emilius Henry Dclme, ^vho assumed the name of Eadeliffe,
This gentleman was Master of the Stud to George lY. and his successor. In 1809 Mr,
Eadcliffe sold Addiscombe to the East India Company, who founded there a Military
College for the education of cadets for the Engineers and Artillery, and in 1825 the plan
of the institution was extended so as to furnish instruction for candidates for the infantry
service in general. After the transfer of the government of India to the CroAvn, by the old
East India Company, in I808, Addiscombe College was broken up, and its site has been
utilised for building purposes.
Amongst the chief seats in the envhons of Croydon may be mentioned the following : —
CooMBE House, a mansion formerly occupied by Beeston Long, Esq., brother of Lord
Farnborough : afterwards it -^'as sold to Mr. Enderby, and at his decease to James William
Sutherland, Esq., whose widow still o-«tis it.
Shirley House, about a mile and a half to the eastward of Croydon, was built by John
Claxton, Esq., in 1720, on an elevated site. It has a fine lawn, and a piece of water in front.
Many years ago it came into the possession of John Maberlcy, Esq., and by the assignees
of that gentleman it was afterwards sold to S. Skinner, Esq. Mr. Skinner disposed of the
estate to the Earl of Eldon, whose son, the present earl, still owns the property.
The Eectory of Croyuox. — This rectory belonged to the Archbishops of Canterbury
till 1391, when, under the authority of a bull of Pope Boniface IX., it was appropriated
to the monastery of Bermondsey in exchange for the manor of Waddon, but the patronage
of the living remained with the Archbishop. On the dissolution of the convent in 1538^
this manor became vested in the Crown, and in 1550 Edward YI. granted the rectory,
with other estates in Surrey, to Thomas Walsiagham, Esq., of Chislehurst, Kent, and
Eobert Moyse, Esq., of Banstead, Surrey.
In 1727 this estate belonged to James Walsingham, Esq., who, by will dated that
year, gave it to his sister. Lady Osborne, at whose death in 1733 it was divided between
the coheiresses of Mr. Walsingham, of whom that lady was one : she left her portion of the
property to Henry Boyle, Esq., who took the name of Walsingham. He conveyed it, in
1770, to Anthony Joseph, Yiscount Montague, descended from Barbara, another sister of
James Walsingham ; and his lordshij), having purchased the remainder of the rectorial
estate, died seized of it in 1787, and was succeeded by his son, George Samuel, Viscount
CRornox. 2.^9
Moutagiio, Avhose trustees sold jwrt of the tithes to Lurd Gwj-dyr and otlier landuwiuTs.
This young nobleman was drowned during his travels in Switzerland iu ITl'o, in an
attempt to pass in a boat doM^n the fall of the Khine at Schaffhausen. lie had eouvcyed
this manor and the remainder of the tithes to Eobert Harris, Esq., who died in 1807,
and the trustees under his will transferred the estate by sale to Alexander Caldecleugh,
<^r Coldcleugh, Esq.
In the Taxation of Pope Nicholas the rectory of Croydon is valued at GO marks, and
the vicarage at 15 marks ; and in the King's books the vicarage, discharged of the
payment of first-fruits, is rated at £21 18s. lOd.
There were anciently two chantries in the parish church. One of these, dedicated to
St. Mary, was founded in the fom-teenth century by Eeginald, Lord t'obham, and it was
valued in 20 Henry VIII. at £13 8s. Id. The other chantry, dedicated to St. Nicholas,
was founded for the repose of the souls of John Staiford, Bishop of Bath and Wells (which
sec he vacated in 1443, on being translated to that of Canterbury), and of William Oliver,
Yicar of Croydon. It was valued at £8 lOs. 4d.
The CiiURCir. — There is known to have been a church at Croydon in the Saxon era,
■as in Lambard's " Perambulation of Kent " we find a copy of " the will of Byrhtric and
-iElfwy, made anno 9G0," a witness to which was " iElffie, the priest of Croydon." The
former chm-ch, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and regarded as one of the finest examples
of ecclesiastical architecture iu the county, is supposed to have been commenced by Arch-
bishop Courtenay, Primate 1381 — 9C ; but it was not completed until the days of
Ai-chbishop Chichele, who expended on it large sums of money. He was, observes
Stow ("Annals," p. G31), "the new builder, or especial repairer of Croydon church, as
appeareth by his arms graven on the walls, steeple, and porch." His arms {ar(/cnt, a
chevron, gules, between three cinquefoils of the last) were on the arch over the west or
principal entrance. This noble edifice, situated at the bottom of the town, near the source
of the Wandle, and adjoining the palace lands, is of stone and flint, and exceedingly well
proportioned, in the pointed style. It consists of nave, aisles, and chancel. At the west
end is a handsome square tower, rising to the height of iowv stories. The tower is
supported by strong buttresses, and adorned at the simunit by battlements, and crocketed
pinnacles issuing from octagonal turrets. It contains a good ring of eight bells, cast iu
1738, with chimes, which play a psalm tune every sixth hoiu". The first bell is thus
inscribed : —
" My voice I will raise,
And sound to my suTiscribera' praise
At proper times. — Thom.ns Lister made me, 1738.''
240 HISTORY OF SURREY.
In 1867 this fine old churcli was destroyed by fire, nothing but the bare walls being
left standing. The edifice has, however, since been carefully restored by the late Sir
Gilbert Scott, in accordance with its original style of architecture, the perpendicular.
The church, on its restoration, was enlarged by the addition of one bay to the nave, and
the consequent extension of the chancel ferther eastward. Some of the windows are
enriched with stained glass, that over the altar being particularly fine. The Eegisters of
the church date from 1538.
Aubrey relates that, in the time of " the rebellion, one Blesse was hired, for 2s. 6d.
per day, to break the painted-glass windows, which were formerly fine."
The old church was unusually rich in monumental brasses and inscriptions ; even on
the exterior and in the c.h-.irchyard were many interesting memorials for the dead.*
The inscriptions, down to 1782 inclusive, are preserved at length in Ducarel's " History of
Croydon," and in the " Bibliotheca Topographica Britannica; " those of more modern date
are given in Steinman's " History of Croydon."
"We shall indicate some of the more important monuments, most of which were
destroyed in the fire above mentioned — a sad and irreparable loss.
In the middle chancel, on a sarcophagus within an arched recess, the entablature of
which was supported by Corinthian columns, lay the painted effigy of Archbishop
Grindal in his scarlet robes. Suruiouuting the entablature were three armorial shields,
* The following lieautifnl inscription in memory of Mr. WUliam Bnmet, who died in 1760, was formerly in the
churchyard, but Steinman (" Hist, of Croydon," p. 210, 1833) states it to he now lost : —
" What is Man ?
To-day he's drest in Gold and Silver bright ;
Wrapt in a Shroud before to-morrow night :
To-day he's feasting on delicious food;
To-morrow, nothing eat can do him good :
To-day he's nice, and scorns to feed on crumbs ;
In a few days, himself a dish for worms :
To-day he's honour'd, and in great esteem ;
To-morrow not a beggar values him :
To-day he rises from a velvet bed ;
To-morrow lies in one that's made of lead :
To-day his house, tho' large, he thinks too small ;
To-morrow can command no house at all :
To-day has twenty servants at his gate ;
To-morrow scarcely one will deign to wait :
To-day perfumed, and sweet as is the rose ;
To-morrow stinks in ev'ry body's nose :
To-day he's grand, majestic, all delight ;
Ghastly and pale before to-morrow night.
Now, when you've wrote and said whate'er you can,
That is the best that you can say of Man."
CROYDON. 241
the centre shield bearing the arms of the see of Canterbury, the dexter shield those of the
see of York, and the sinister shield those of the see of London. The Archbishop
died in 1583.
In the south-east corner of St. Nicholas's Chantry was a splendid monument to the
memory of Archbishop Sheldon, representing the recumbent cfhgy of the prelate in his
archiepiscopal robes and mitre. The altar tomb, on which the Archbishop appeared in repose,
was of black marble. Its panels were enriched by some finely carved osteology. The
figure itself was of statuary marble beautifully sculptured : the left hand sustained the
head ; in the right was a crosier. Above the figure was an inscription, surmounted by
cherubim supporting an armorial shield. Evelyn estimated the cost of this monument,
designed by Joseph Latham, the city mason, and entirely executed by him and his
English workmen, at from £700 to £800. The Archbishop died at Croydon in 1677.
Ou the north side of the altar, within separate recessed arches, were the sculptured
effigies of a man and woman kneeling before desks. This monument, with its quaint
inscriptions, was a curious specimen of the taste of the sixteenth century. It commemo-
rated " Maister Henry Mill, Citizen and Grocer of London famous Cittie, Alderman and
sometime Shrive (Sheriff): " ob. 1573.
In St. Nicholas's Chantry were also the tombs of the Archbishops Wake, Totter, and
Herring, who succeeded each other, and died respectively in 1730, 1747, and 1757. In
St. Mary's chancel was a fine tomb to members of the Heron f\nnily. Another altar tomb
commemorated Ellis Davy (who died in 1459), the founder of an almshouse in Croydon,
which will be hereafter noticed.
Here also was Archbishop Whitgift's monument, which greatly resembled that of
Archbishop Grindal, it being a sarcophagus, supported by Corinthian columns of black
marble. It presented the recumbent eflSgy of the prelate in sable robes, with his hands in
the act of prayer ; and its three shields bore respectively the arms of the sees of Canter-
bury and Worcester and the deanery of Lincoln. On the panels of the sarcophagus were
the armorial bearings of the see of Lincoln, and of the colleges of Trinity, Pembroke, and
Peterhouse, at Cambridge. His Grace died in 1604: his funeral was solemnised in a
manner suitable to the splendour in which he had lived.
Out of the above memorials of past greatness only the mutilated remains of the tombs
of Archbishop Sheldon and Whitgift are now left. They are still in fragments, and at
present (1879) no efforts have been made to restore them.
It appears by the Parish Eegisters that Alexander Barkley, or Barclay, celebrated in
his day as the author of " The Ship of Fools," founded on a satirical poem entitled " Navis
VOL. III. I I
242 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Stultifera," wiitten by Sebastian Brandt, a German, was buried in Croydon Churchyard
in 1562. It has not been ascertained whether England or Scotland was the country of
Barkley's nativity. According to his own representation he lived at Croydon in the early
part of his life. He studied at Oriel College, Oxford, and was afterwards successively a
Benedictine monk at Ely and a Franciscan at Canterbury. Besides his " Ship of Fools"
— a spirited picture of familiar manners and popular customs — he was the author of several
Eclogues, of Lives of some of the Saints, of a pamphlet against Skelton, the poet-laureate,
of several translations, &c.
Of the Vicars of Croydon, Roland Phillips, D.D., collated 1497, is entitled to notice,
were it only for one memorable expression. Preaching at St. Paul's (of which he was one
of the canons) against printing, he exclaimed, " We (the Eoman Catholics) must root out
printing, or printing will root out us ! " Dr. Phillips was considered as " a great and a
renowned clerk," as " a famous and notable preacher, and a forward man in the Convoca-
tion of the clergy."
William Clewer, D.D., collated in 1660, "at the recommendation of Charles II., who
had been imposed upon with regard to his character," " was notorious for his singular love
of litigation, unparalleled extortions, and criminal and disgraceful conduct," which
eventually caused his ejectment from this beneiice in 1684.*
John Ireland, D.D., collated in 1793, wrote "five discourses, containing certain
arguments for and against the reception of Christianity by the ancient Jews and Greeks,
1796." This divine was afterwards Dean of Westminster, and the founder of the Ireland
Scholarship in the University of Oxford.
Vicars of Croydon since 1816 : —
l.—John Cutis Lochvood, M.A., was collated in 1816.
2. — Henry Lindsay, M.A., collated by the Archbishop in 1830.
3. — John George Hodgson, M.A. Instituted in 1846; resigned in 1879.
4:.— Edward Wyndham Tufnell, D.D. (ex-Bishop of Brisbane). Instituted in 1879.
The old vicarage-house, which adjoined the churchyard, was erected on the ancient site
by Archbishop Wake in 1730, It was pulled down about 1847, and the grounds added
* See "Case of the Inliabitants of Croydon," quoted by Garrow in his "Appendix," pp. 304 — 309. The subjoined
anecdote, from Captain Smith's " Lives of Highwaymen," is offered as a slight, very slight, illustration of the character of
this divine : — " O'Bryan, meeting with Dr. Clewer, tr'^d once and hurnt in the hand at the Old Bailey for stealing a silver
cup, coming along the road from Acton, he demanded his money ; but the reverend doctor having not a farthing about
him, O'Bryan was for taking his gown. At this our divine was much dissatisfied ; but, perceiving his enemy would
plunder him, quoth he, ' Pray, Sir, let me have a chance for my gown ; ' so, jmlliug a pack of cards out of his pocket, he
farther said — ' We'll have, if you please, one game of all-fours for it, and if you win it, take it and wear it.' This
challenge was readily accepted by the foot-pad, but being more ounniag than liis antagonist at slipping and palming the
cards, he won the game, and the doctor went contentedly home without his canonicals."
to the chiu'cliyard, a new vicarage being at the same time erected about a quarter of a mile
west of the chm-ch, in the hamlet of Waddon.
The increased popuktion of Croydon rendering necessary additional places of worship
for the Established Church, it was determined to erect two chapels-of-ease. Accordingly
two grants of £3,500 were obtained from the Commissioners for the building of new
churches, partly from which, and partly from loans to be paid off by instalments, the
determination was carried into effect. In 1827 the first stone of St. James's Church was
laid on what was formerly known as Croydon Common. The church was consecrated in
1829. The building, of pale brick, is in the pointed style of architecture, from a design
by Mr. K. Wallace, architect. It consists of naye and aisles, with a chancel, and a small
but rather lofty campanile tower at the west end. The tower has pinnacles at the angles,
with three pointed windows in each face. The nave has six windows, and the chancel
three. The galleries are supported on square piers. The font is a marble vase brought
from the mother chiu'ch. In its general effect this building is meagre, and deficient in
dignity. This church is a perpetual curacy, in the patronage of the Yicar of Croydon
for the time being. Since 1850 St. James's district has been subdivided, and
the following churches erected in the districts attached : — Holy Trinity, Selhurst,
1867 ; St. Saviour's, 1867 ; St. Luke's, Woodside, 1871 ; and St. Mary Magdalene,
Addiscombe.
Of All Saints' Church, on Beulah Hill, Norwood, erected from the designs of J. Savage,
architect, the foundation stone was laid in 1827. This building consists of nave, aisles,
and chancel. It has a small tower at each extremity, the west front is adorned with
several richly crocketed pinnacles, and in the centre are three pointed windows. The
aisles are divided by buttresses into six compartments, and in each compartment is a
pointed window. Occupying an elevated site, and having a spire ascending from its
western tower, this church is seen to advantage from several parts of the county. All
Saints' has been enlarged within a recent date.
The following churches have been built in Croydon within the last thirty years: —
St. Peter's, with schools attached ; St. Andrew's, with schools attached ; Christ Church,
with schools attached ; St. John the Evangelist, Shirley, with schools attached ;
St. Paul's, at New Thornton Heath, consecrated in 1872 ; St. Matthew's, in Lower
Addiscombe Eoad, consecrated in 1866, and enlarged ia 1877.
Several denomiuations of Dissenters have chapels and meeting-houses at Croydon.
No less than eight buildings are set apart for Congregationalists, five for Anabaptists,
and foiu' for Wesleyans; whilst the Plymouth Brethren, TJudenominationalists, Uni-
244 HISTORY OF SURREY.
tarians, Presbyterians, and Primitive Methodists liave each a chapel of their own. The
Eoman Catholic Church of St, Mary, in "Wellesley Eoad, has a large school attached
to it.
In Park Lane the Society of Friends have an extensive establishment, supported by
subscriptions, and providing for the maintenance and education of 150 boys and girls. It
was in 1825 that this excellent institution was removed hither from Islington, where it
had existed upwards of a century.
"Whitgift's Hospital. — This, the noblest benefaction in Croydon, was founded in the
reign of Elizabeth by Archbishop Whitgift, " for the maintenance of a warden, school-
master, and twenty-eight men and women, or as many more under forty as the revenues
would admit." In 1849 the Hospital was enlarged, so as to include the full complement of
thirty-nine inmates. The Hospital, situated at the entrance of the town from London, is
an unpretending quadrangular brick edifice of the Elizabethan style. Over the entrance
are the arms of the see of Canterbury, surmounting this inscription: — " Qvi dat pavpeei
NON INDIGEBIT."
The pious and benevolent founder, having obtained letters-patent, with license of
mortmain, from the Queen, dated 1596, soon afterwards commenced the building, and
finished it in 1599, having expended on the works the sum of £2,716 lis. lid. The
original yearly revenue of the institution, arising chiefly from the Archbishop's endowment,
was only £185 4s. 2d. ; but having been greatly increased by fines on the renewal of
leases, and by sundry benefactions, it amounted, in 1817, to more than £480 ; and fixed
rents having been substituted iii lieu of all fines, it is now upwards of £2,000 per
annum.
According to the original statutes of the Hospital, the nomination of the brethren and
sisters is vested in the Archbishop of Canterbury. The number of women was not to
exceed half that of the men. Each poor brother and sister, whose respective ages must
not be under sixty, is to receive the sum of £5 per annum, besides wood, corn, and other
provisions. Amongst the crimes to be punished by expulsion are, "obstinate heresj^e,
sorcerye, any kind of charmynge, or witchcrafte." The schoolmaster, who is also chaplain,
is to receive £20 per annum, and the warden £11.
The chapel of the Hospital, a small apartment at its south-east angle, was consecrated
in 1599 by the name of " The Chapel of the Holy Trinity." On the outside, over the
window bearing the founder's arms, is this inscription on Portland stone : — " Eeoracencis *
Hang Fenestram Fieri Fecit, 1597."
* Supposed to be Michael Murgatroid, Whitgift's secretary.
C€^ cV'A^^^
In tlic chaiicl arc some interesting remains : amongst tlicm is a portrait of the Arch-
bishop painted on hoard, and inscribed above —
" Feci quod potui ; potui (|uoil, Clniste, tUnlisti :
Improba, fac meliiis, si potos, luvidia:"
below —
" Has Triadi Sancte primo qui struxerat ledes,
Illius en veram Prtesulis cifigiem." *
Also a portrait of a lady in a rnff, dated a.d. 1016, oetat. thirty-eight, and sni^posed to be
one of the Archbishop's daughters.
In this chapel is an outline delineation, framed, of Death as a skeleton and grave-
digger, erroneously described as the " Dance of Death." There are likewise in frames
two long elegiac inscriptions, one in Latin, the other in English, in commemoration of tlic
cliaracter and virtues of Archbishop Whitgift.
Over the outer gate, in an upper room called the Treasury, are preserved, amongst
other documents, the original letters-patent to the founder, embellished with a drawing of
Queen Elizabeth, on vellum, and the Archbishop's deed of foundation, with a di-awiug of
himself, very beautifully executed.
In the hall, on the north side of the inner porch, where the inmates, both male and
female, dine together three times yearly, is a folio Bible in black letter, with wooden
covers mounted with brass, and a Latin inscription commemorating its presentation by the
Eev. Abraham Hartwell, M.A., Secretary to Ai-chbishop Whitgift, and author of several
literary works. It has Cranmer's preface, and was printed in 1596. Here, also, formerly
were three antique wooden goblets (now lost), one of which, holding about three pints,
bore this inscription : —
" Wliat, sirrah ! kold tliy pease ;
Thirst satisfied, cease ! ''
Contiguous to the Hospital are the school-house and the master's residence. " The
howse which I have builded for the sayde schoole howse," said the founder, " and also the
howse which I have buylded for the schoolemaster, shal be for ever imployde to that use
onlye, and to no other." Notwithstanding this, the school-house was appropriated to the
children of the National School. The master's house, however, is still used in conformity
* The following translations have been given of each distich : —
" My all I did ; the all allow'd by Heaven :
Envy, do more, if more to thee be given."
" The Primate's breathing Image here you sec,
Who built this Structure to the Holij riirce."
246 HISTORY OF SURREY.
ATitli the founder's intention.* An upper and middle class school, and also a public
elementary scliool, both on the foundation of Archbishop Whitgift's Hospital, have been
recently erected. The schools afford instruction to 300 boys.
Archbishop Tenison's School. — For the endowment of this institution, originally at
North End, in 1714 Ai'chbishop Tenison purchased a farm and lands at Limpsfield, in this
county, of the then yearly value of £42, and bequeathed to it the sum of £400 to be laid
out in land for the extension of the charity. The school was originally established for ten
poor boys and an equal number of girls; now, from the increase of the revenues, the
number has been greatly augmented. The school was transferred to the south end of the
town, close to St. Peter's Church, about 1850.
Besides the above-mentioned schools, there are now several which have been erected
under the auspices of the Croydon School Board.
Ellis Davy's Almshouse. — Under letters-patent from Henry VI., Archbishop
Stratford, and the abbot and convent of St. Saviour, Bermondsey, Ellis Davy, citizen and
mercer of London, in 1447 founded an Almshouse in Croydon for seven poor people, men
and women, six of whom were to receive lOd. per week each, and the seventh, to be
called the tutor. Is. It was endowed with £18 per annum, with the rents of four
neighbouring cottages for repairs. The vicar, churchwardens, and four of the principal
inhabitants of Croydon were appointed governors, the masters and wardens of the
Mercers' Company overseers. The founder required that the clothes of the tutor and
poor of his Almshouse should be "darke and browne of colour, and not staring, neither
biasing, and of easy price cloth, according to their degree;" that they should attend
divine service daily in the church of Croydon, and there " pray upon their knees, for the
King, in three Paternosters, three Aves, and a Credo, with special and hortily recommenda-
tions " of the founder to God and the Yirgin Mary ; that they should also say, for " the
estate of all the sowls abovesaid," daily at their convenience, one ave, fifteen paternosters,
and three credos ; and that after the death of the founder, provided he should be bmied.
at Croydon, they and their successors should appear daily before his tomb, and there say
the psalm Be Profundis, or three paternosters, three aves, and a credo. f
* The National or parish. Charity School, alluded to above as occupying the school-house adjoining and belonging
to Archbishop Whitgift's Hospital, was established in 1812, upon the principle of the late Dr. BeU.
Here is also a school upon the Lancastrian system, established in the same year, for education of indigent children of
all persuasions. The present school-house, situated at North End, was built in 1829.
Besides these there are a school of industrj' for girls, conducted in the palace chapel, and an infants' school, under the
patronage of the ladies. These establishments are all suppoi1;ed by voluntary contributions.
+ The Statutes of Davy's Almshouse, which exhibit a curious picture of the moral and religious feeling of the times,
maybe found at length in Steinman's " Croydon," Appendix VII. page 267 ; in Archbishop Morton's Register ; and in the-
Appendix to Ducarel's " History of Croydon."
CROi'DOX. 247
The present building, situated near the clmrch, and plain and humble in appearance,
■was raised about a hundi-ed years ago. The Almshouses were enlarged in 1875, and tln"
number of inmates increased to twelve.
In the Little Almshouses in Pitlake the poor of Croydon are usually placed. Tlicy
must have been originally built previously to 1528, as in that year a rent-charge of 20s.
was given to them by Joan Price. In 1629 Arnold Goldwell gave £40 towards their
re-erection; in 1722 they were described as "nine small low inconvenient houses;''
and in 1775 they were enlarged by the addition of two new buildings for twelve poor
residents, with funds supplied by the then Earl of Bristol, and a subscription raised
amongst the inhabitants. These Almshouses are situated near the church.
The EoTAL Masonic Benevolent Institution, St. James's Eoad, was founded in
1850 for the relief of Freemasons or then- widows. The building is of brick and stone,
in the Elizabethan style of architecture.
The Croydon General Hospital, in London Eoad, was opened in 1873 by the
Archbishop of Canterbury, and contains accommodation for thirty-five patients. The
Hospital was originally established in 1867 in the old workhouse infirmary.
Amongst the benefactions to the parish may be mentioned one of £10 10s. per annum
from Archbishop Laud for apprenticing poor boys, and also the rent of the Hermitage
estate, about £3-1 yearly, which is distributed amongst the poor.
The town of Croydon had a market on Wednesdays, obtained by Archbishop Kilwardby
in the reign of Edward I. ; and a fair, which began on the eve of St. Botolph, and lasted
nine days. Another market, on Thursdays, was granted to Archbishop Eeyuolds by
Edward II., and a fair on the eve and morrow of St. Matthew. A third market, on
Saturdays (the only one now continued), was granted by Edward III. to Archbishop
Stratford, and a fair on the festival of St. John the Baptist. The fairs are now held on
the 2nd of October for cattle, horses, and sheep, and in July for wool.
By the Eeform Act (2 Wm. IV. c. 45) Croydon was appointed one of the polling
places for the eastern division of the county. Its population, at the census of 1871, was
65,000, and is now (1879) computed to reach 70,000, in which case it ranks as the largest
unrepresented town in England. Upwards of eight hundred houses were placed on the
rate-book in 1878 alone.
The Town-hall is a stone edifice, with columns of the Doric order in the lower part,
and of the Ionic in the upper. It is surmounted by a cupola, with a turret and clock,
its upper story comjDrising a court for the trial of civil causes at the assizes (held
alternately here and at Guildford), Avith rooms for the Judges, Sheriff, and grand jury. The
248 HISTORY OF SURREY.
building also contains offices for tkc Local Board of Health, &c. The magistrates of the
division hold petty sessions here eA'ery Saturday, and the County Court is also held
fortnightly. The ground floor is reserved for a corn market, but during the assizes it is
occupied as the Criminal Court. This building (first opened in 1809, and repaired in
1829) was erected from a design by Mr. Samuel Pepys Cockerell. The expense, upwards
of £8,000, was defrayed from the proceeds of certain waste lauds belonging to the parish,
and disposed of by Act of Parliament in 1806.
The old market-house for butter, poultry, &c., built in 1566, at the cost of Francis
Tirrell, citizen and grocer, a native of Croydon, was pulled down in. 1807. The present
structure (situated in High Street) was raised ia 1808, at an expense of £1,219, derived
from the same source as that of the Town-hall.
The Union Workhouse, in Queen's Eoad, is for paupers from the following eleven
parishes or places : — Addington, Beddington, Coulsdon, Croydon, Merton, Mitcham,
Mordon, Penge, Sanderstead, Wallington, and Woodmansterne.
The Barracks, built in 1794, at the entrance of the town from Mitcham, were originally
intended only as a temporary station for cavalry. However, they contain accommodation
for thi-ee troops, Avith a "hosj)ital for 34 patients, stabling for 192 horses, a store-room
for 1,000 sets of harness, with field equipments, riding-house, and the accustomed offices."
The barracks are now iised by the 2nd SuiTey Eifle Yolunteers.
A Canal was opened at Croydon in 1809. After running from the north end of the
town through Norwood, Penge Common, Sydenham, Forest Wood, and New Cross, it
united with the Thames at Eotherliithe. Not paying its expenses, it was purchased by
the Croydon Eailway Company, and the upper part, having been filled up, now forms a
portion of the railway line.
In 1846 the population of Croydon amounted to about 16,000 souls; it is now, as
stated above, estimated at about 70,000, and still rapidly increasing. This vast increase
in the population of late years is attributed by the Eegistrar General to "the great
facilities afforded by railway communication ; " but to this may be added the general
salubrity of the locality and the natural beauties of the surrounding country. Croydon
is now the largest suburban town in the neighbourhood of Loudon, and its railway com-
munication with the metropolis is both rapid and complete, the trains between Croydon and
London being upwards of four hundi-ed a day, and there being no less than eight stations
in the, town and parish, namely, the West Croydon, East Croydon, South Croydon, New
Croydon, Addiseombe Eoad, Selhurst, Waddon, and Thornton Heath, which place the
inhabitants within easy reach of London Bridge, Charing Cross, or Victoria Station.
ADDINGTON. 24,
Like most other towns of note, Croydon has a Literary and Scientific Institution,
which was founded in 1838. The new public hall and rooms in connection with the
institution are in Wellesley Eoad.
The town also possesses a commodious theatre, which, with the market for meat an(^
vegetables, occupies the place of the old public lecture hall. There are likewise some
spacious batlis, and also working men's clubs. The town is well paved, lighted with gas,
drained, and has an excellent supply of water.
Tradition states that James I., the fii'st founder of regulations respecting horse-racing,
held Croydon and Enfield Chase in great estimation as resorts for his favourite pursuit.
In the Appendix to Garrow's "History of Croydon " are lists of rare plants growing in
this vicinity, and of various fossils found in the chalk at the neighbouring gravel-pits.
ADDINGTON.
Addington is situated on the eastern confines of the county, about three miles cast-
south-east from Croydon, at the foot of a range of hills to which it gives the name of
Addington Common. The parish borders on that of Croydon on the west and north ; on
Beckenham and West Wickham, in Kent, on the east ; and on Farley and Sauderstead on
the south. The soil is in general gravelly, but in some places consists of clay or chalk.
Antiquaries may feel interested in the fact that in the common above the village of
Addington might be traced, till the middle of the present century, nearly five-and- twenty
tumuli, out of which fragments of urns, &c., have occasionally been taken. Most of the
tumuli were small, but one of them was nearly 40 feet in diameter.
It is a tradition of the inhabitants that Addington was formerly of much greater
extent than at present. In ]278 Eobert, sou of William de Aguilon, who had been
Sheriff of Surrey from 1261 to 1267, and was then made Governor of Guildford Castle,
obtained the royal license to embattle his house at this place, the King at the same time
granting him free-warren in his manor of Addington. Agreeably with this statement, a
hill near the church retains the name of Castle HUl, and formerly timbers and other
remains of buildings were occasionally dug up here. The mansion of Eobert de Aguilon
is believed to have been the manorial residence until the close of the fourteenth century ;
and it appears, from the following inscription over the principal entrance, that a new house
was erected on the same spot between 1400 and 1403 ; but the latter structure, composed
of flints and chalk, was pulled down about 1780 : —
" In fourteen hundred and none there was neither stick nor stone ;
In foiirteen hundred and three the goodly building -n-hich you see."
-zso HISTORY OF SURREY.
Here were two manors, each, named Eddintone at the time of the Doomsday
survey, which, are thus described : —
" In Waleton Hundred, Albert the Clerk holds of the King Eddintone, which, was
held by Osward of King Edward. It was then assessed at 8 hides ; now, at 2 hides. The
arable land amounts to 4 carucates. Two are in the demesne; and five villains, and
four cottars, with \\ carucates. The wood yields twenty swine. In the time of King
Edward, as at present, it was valued at 100s."
" Tezelin the Cook holds of the King Edintone, which Godric held of Edward the
Confessor. It was then assessed at 8 hides ; now, at 1 hide. The arable land consists
of 4 carucates. There are in the demesne 2 carucates ; and eight villains, and nine cottars,
with 2\ carucates. The wood yields twenty swine. It was and is worth 100s."
The manor of Addington, held by the King's cook, furnishes an example of the tenure
of estates by sergeanty, which has been continued to the present time. Erom the Testa de
Nevill (the most valuable record of the state of landed property in England next to the
Doomsday Book) we learn that Bartholomew de Chennay, or Chesnaye, held of the King
a certain part of Addington, per serjanciam Coquince ; that Eichard I. had given the manor,
with the daughter of Bartholomew, to Peter Fitz-Alwin ; and that King John bestowed it
on Ealph Parmentar, with the daughter of Peter : in the time of Henry III. it had fallen
back into the hands of the King. In the same record it is stated that William Aguilon
held certain land in Addington by the sergeanty of making hastias in the King's kitchen on
the day of his coronation, or providing some one as his deputy to make a dish called girunt,
and, if suet was added, it was called malpigernoun*
The manor passed from the Aguilons by the marriage of Isabel, daughter of Eobert
Aguilon, with Hugh Bardolf, whose descendants held it temp. Henry. IV. Philippa, queen
of Edward III., received the profits of this manor, by the grant of her husband, from the
death of John Bardolf, in 1364, to her decease in 1369, after which the King enjoyed
them during the minority of William, son of the aforesaid John Bardolf. In 1367 the
* Tlie dish is mentioned by various names, and it was to be prepared, we are told, m olla lutea. By some it is
called giranit, or gyroun ; and if seijm (a Saxon word for fat) were put in, it was called malpigernoun. Wben the manor
was held by the Bardolfs in the reign of Edward III., it was said, in stating the service, that the lord « was to provide
three dishes ; one for the King, one for the Archbishop of Canterbury, and the other for whoever the King pleased."
Lysons, in his " Environs," observes that he cannot find that there exists any ancient receipt for making the mess, unless
it be that called Bardolf in a collection of ancient cookery receipts in the fourteenth century, printed at the end of the
" Royal Household Establishments," published by the Society of Antiquaries in 1790. It was called a pottage, and
consisted of almond milk, brawn of capons, sugar, and spices, chicken parboiled and chopped, &c. The service, as we
have said, is still kept up ; and " a dish of pottage " is always presented, by the lord of the manor of Addington, to the
sovereign at his or lier coronation. It appears, fi-om an account of the coronation of James II., that it was customary for
the King, on receiving the dish, to confer the honour of knighthood on the lord of the manor of Bardolf. (Vide Lysons,
" Environs," vol. i. pp. 5, C.)
ADDINGTOX. 231
Queeu granted tho -wardship and marriage of this AYilliani Bardolf to Sir Michael Poyuings,
^yith the view of his marrying Agnes, daughter of Sir Michael. This he afterwards did,
and had livery of his lauds. Thomas, Lord Bardolf, his son, joined the Earl of North-
umberland in the insurrection against Henry IV. in 1404. They were attacked by tho
King's troops, under Sir Thomas Eokeby, near Thirsk, when Northumberland fell, and
Bardolf, being wounded and taken prisoner, died soon after. His body was quartered and
set on the gates of several towns, but his widow obtained the King's leave to take the
quarters down and bury them. He was attainted, and his estates were seized ; but he had
previously settled the manor of Addington on his younger son "William. Soon after 1424
the manor became vested in William Uvedale, but whether as a purchaser, or as a trustee
for the two daughters of William Bardolf, does not appear. It next passed, by purchase,
to John Leigh, or At Lee, who had other possessions in the parish : he died in 1479.
Nicholas, his grandson, married Ann, eldest daughter of Sir Nicholas Carew. John, the
son of Nicholas, built the mansion called Addington Place in 1544. He married Joan,
daughter of James OUiph, of West Wickham, and, dying in 1576, was succeeded by his
eldest son. Sir OUiph Leigh, from whom the manor descended to Sir John Leigh, who died
without surviving issue in 1737 ; and a will which he had made in favour of the relations
of his second wife being set aside, his estates, by a decree of the House of Lords in 1744,
were given to Mrs. Bennett and Mrs. Spencer, the daughters of his uncle, Wolley Leigh,
Esq. In 1767 an Act of Parliament was obtained for vesting these estates in trustees, for
the purpose of making a division of them, in consequence of which. Addington, with other
property, was assigned to Mrs. Spencer in 1768. In the same year this lady and her
eldest son, Wolley Leigh Spencer, sold the manor of Addington, the mansion, rectory, and
advowson of the vicarage, with all the farms and lauds, to Barlow Trecothick, Esq.,
Alderman of London, and Lord Mayor in 1770, for £38,500. In the particulars of sale
the lands were computed at 5,000 acres, of which about 500 were wood and 1,000 waste.*
In 1770 Mr. Trecothick, having lost his first wife, married Ann Meredith, of Hcnbury,
in Cheshire, and settled on her au annuity for life, payable out of this estate. Leaving no
issue, Mr. Trecothick devised the Addington property to his nephew, James Ivors, who
took the name and arms of Trecothick, The alderman died in 1775. In 1803 his nephew
sold this estate in lots, when the manor, mansion-house, rectory, advowson, and same of
the lands were sold to Thomas Coles, Esq., whose son William, in 1808, transferred the
same, by sale, to the trustees of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and Addington Park thus
* On the enclosure of Croydon Common in 1797 a large part of the common between AddLsconibe and Addington
was claimed by Mr. Trecothick in right of his manor of Addington, and on a trial the claim was admitted to be just.
K K 2
252 HISTORY OF SURREY.
became tlie property of the primate for the time being, instead of the old palace at Croydon,
which was sold under the authority of an Act of Parliament.
There was in Addington another manor, which Mr. Manning represents as the same
with that held by Albert the Clerk at the time of the Doomsday survey. This statement, at
best, is doubtful, for that manor was held of the King in capite, whilst the manor to which
Manning refers was, as he himself informs us, subordinate to that of Croydon, belonging to
the see of Canterbury. Walter de Merton gave this manor to the Knights Templars, to
hold of the Archbishop's manor of Croydon by the payment of a rent of 32s. Id. This
order having been dissolved in the reign of Edward II., an Act of Parliament was passed
in 1324, whereby the estates of the Templars in this country were granted to the
Hospitallers or Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, who held Addington till the suppression
of their order in England in 1540. A lease of this manor had been granted in 1523 to a
person named Middleton, who in 1540 sold it to Nicholas Leigh, Esq., who held the other
manor of Addington, and he obtained from the King a grant in fee of this manor, dated
1545.
There was here a third manor or estate belonging to the monastery of St. Mary Overie,
in Southwark, to which were annexed the rectory and advowson of the church. It was
rated at 10s. Twelve acres of land in this parish were held by that convent, on condition
of keeping a lamp burning by night in the church. This estate, including the ad^-owson,
is said to have been the gift of Bartholomew de Kaisnet,* probably the person who in the
Testa de Nevill is called Bartholomew de Chesney, lord of the principal manor held of the
Crown by sergeanty : the land, therefore, was originally a portion of that manor, which,
reverting to the King when the convent was suppressed, was included with the manor of
the Templars in the grant of Henry VIII. to Nicholas Leigh, Esq.
Addington Park. — Addington Park and mansion, the country residence of the
Archbishops of Canterbury, with several farms and woods, were purchased, as abeady
stated, in 1807 by Archbishop Sutton, with trust moneys of the see assigned for the
purpose of its conversion into an archiepiscopal abode. Contiguous lands were added by
purchases made with similar funds by Dr. Howley, his successor in the see.
The mansion was built by Mr. Alderman Trecothick, but in 1829-30 a chapel, a librar)'^,
and many other apartments were added, and the residence was greatly improved, the cost
being defrayed chiefly by moneys raised by a mortgage on the revenues of the archiepiscopal
see, and a fund applicable to the erection of a chapel. Altogether this mansion is now one
of the most convenient houses for a large family that could well be contrived. The rooms,
* Dugdale's " Monastieon."
ADDIXGTOX. 253
though not TOiy large, are of good proportion and y,\A\ arranged. The liousc has been
but slightly altered since Dr. Howley's time.
From many parts of the park, which is beautifully situated at the foot of the slope of
the Addington hills, delightful views are commanded, extending over Surrey and Kent.
It is considered to be eminently healthy, and, as there is no public road through the park,
it seems to be a retirement admirably calculated for its dignified owner.
The Rectory, Vicarage, and Church. — Though not mentioned in the Doomsday
survey, it is supposed that there was a church at Addington previously to the Conquest.
The rectory, with the church, and the Chapel of All Saints, formerly annexed to it (the
patronage of which belonged to Reginald de Edintone, or Edindone), was given by
Bartholomew de Chesney to the priory of St. Mary Overy. In the sixteenth century it
was granted to Nicholas Leigh, and has passed with the principal estate ever since.
The benefice is now a vicarage in the rural deanery of Croydon, in the diocese of
Canterbury, and in the patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury. It "is assessed at
10 marks in the Valor of Edward I,; is rated in the King's books at £4 16s. 5id. ; and
pays for synodals to the bishop 2s. Id. The vicar had, formerly, half of the small tithes
of Aguilon's manor, and the 20th of the sheaves belonging to the manor of St. Mary Overie,
but nothing from the Templars' manor, nor from the 12 acres out of which the Priory of
St. Mary Overie kept a lamp burning in the church." *
The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a small structure, " originally of flint, with the
window-cases of friable stone." The exterior walls of the body of the church were
rebuilt with brick by Alderman Trecothick about 1773. At the west end is a large
square tower embattled, and containing four bells : this was originally of flint, but has
been mostly renewed with brickwork. The whole fabric, however, is now cased with
flint. The north and south aisles are separated from the nave by plain pointed arches,
supported by massy pillars. These, with the chancel, are thought to be coeval with
the original building: the windows in the north wall appear to be of the time of
Edward III., when the church is understood to IiaA'e been in a great measure rebuilt. In
the chancel are several lancet windows, and there are two others in the south aisle. The
chm-ch contaias a large monument to Mr. Alderman Trecothick, who rebuilt the outer
walls and new-pewed the edifice.
In 1843 Addington Chiu-ch was thoroughly repaii-ed — it may almost be said renovated
— internally and externally, at the expense of Archbishop Howley, and a new stone font
was put in. The church now contains sittings for 300 worshippers. In 1878
* Jlanninp;, " Surrey,'' vol. ii. p. 50:"!.
254 HISTORY OF SURREY.
tlie large west window in the tower was filled in with stained glass, as a memorial of the
late Eev. Cranfurd Tait, the subject being the Ascension of our Lord. Of the numerous
old monuments with which this structure was formerly emiched many are entirely lost,
and most of those that remain are in a very dilapidated state.* This church was
restored in 1876, at a cost of £5,000, from the designs of Mr. Piers St. Aubyn. The
work of restoration included the building of a new north aisle and a vestry; the
reroofing of the whole church, with the exception of the chancel ; the raising of the tower
and opening it into the nave ; and the entire reseating of the body of the church. Much
has also been done in the way of internal improvement and decoration.
Against the north wall is a costly monument of alabaster and black marble, erected by
Sir OUiph Leigh to his father and mother. In the upper part are two arches, imder one
of which are kneeling figures of John Leigh, Esq. (father of Sir OUiph), who died in 1576,
and his wife Joan, daughter and heiress of Sir John Olliph. Under the other arch are
figures in the same posture of Nicholas Leigh, the grandfather, who died in 1565, and his
Avife Anne, daughter of Sir Nicholas Carew. The figures are in the habits of their time,
and in proper, but now faded, colours. Underneath is a recumbent statue of Sir Olliph
Leigh, who erected the monument, and who died in 1612. He is represented as com-
pletely armed, and reclining upon his elbow. In a lower compartment is the effigy of his
wife Jane, daughter of Sir Thomas Browne, of Betchworth, Ent., leaniag on her right
hand, with a book in her left.
In the north-east corner of the chancel is an altar tomb of Sussex marble, on which are
engraved brasses of a man and woman in a standing posture, with their hands closed as in
prayer, and supi^licatory labels issuing from their lips:t beneath are the figures of five
children. The slab is decorated with the arms and quarterings of the Leighs and Harveys,
the whole being surrounded with an inscribed border of brass, showing that this tomb was
raised in memory of John Leigh, Esq., who died in 1509, and Isabel, his wife, sister of Sir
George Harvey : she died in 1544. Above this tomb is the monument of Sarah, wife of
Sir Francis Leigh, and of her mother, Elizabeth Level, sister of Henry Guy, Esq., of Tring,
in Hertfordshire, who died in 1691.
On a slab near the communion-table is a brass figure of a man in armour, and under-
neath an inscription in black letter to Thomas Hatteclyff', Esq., " su'tyme one of y^ fowre
masters of the howsholde to our sov'aigne Lord Kyng Henry y^ VIII." Amongst the
* Many of the inscriptions, no longer risible in the church, are preserved in Manning and Bray's " Surrey," vol. ii.
pp. 363—365.
+ Bearing a remarliable resemblance to these are two small detached brasses preserved in the neighbouring churoh-
of Sanderstead.
CHALDON. 235
other memorials are some neat mural tablets of modern date. Arcliblshops JManners-
Sutton and Howlcy are buried in vaults underneath the chiu'ch, and Ai'chbislioi)s Sunmcr
and Longley in graves in the chui-chyard.
Various hatchments, armour, &c., commemorative of persons interred here, appear in
the chancel. The Kegisters of this church commence in 1559.
Vicars of Addiugton in and since 1800 : —
1. — Henry James Todd, M.A. Eesigned in 1820.
2. — John Collinson Bissett. Instituted in 1821.
3. — Matthew Thomas Farrer. Instituted in 1843.
4. — William Benham, M.A. Instituted in 18G7.
5. — ■ErsJcine William Knollys, M.A. Instituted in 1873.
A school chapel was built in Addiugton parish in 1873; and a Working Man's Club
has also been since opened.
In the little district of Shirley, situated between the village of Addington and the town
of Croydon, is a new district church dedicated to St. John, built by local subscriptions,
aided by the Church Building Society, at the cost of £1,300. It was consecrated by the
Archbishop of Canterbury in 1835. It is a plain structure, with sittings for 230 persons.
Near Shirley Church are a good house for the residence of the curate, and a small school
for children.
A large house has been built on the Ballards estate, which formerly belonged to
W. Hoje&nan, Esq., by Charles Goschen, Esq., who also bought the Heathfield estate.
His brother, "W. H. Goschen, Esq., lives at Heathfield House.
The number of acres in this parish, estimated and tithable, is about 3,900. The com-
muted rent-charge is as follows :— Eectorial tithes, £600 ; vicarial ditto, £208 5s. About
half an acre of glebe land belongs to this vicarage, but there is no glebe house.
On Thunderfield Common, in this parish, is a circular encampment encompassed by a
double moat, enclosing about 2 acres of ground.
CHALDON.
This parish, lying on the north side of the chalk hills which intersect the county, is
bounded on the north by Coulsdon, on the east by Caterham, on the south by Bletchinglcy,
and on the west by Merstham and Chipstead. Through the parish extends a road called
in old deeds the "ancient Stansted," supposed to have been of Eoman construction. At
256 HISTORV OF SURREF.
the foot of the hill in Chaldon are stone quarrieSj which in the time of Edward III.
belonged to the Crown, and were considered of so much importance that they were placed
under the charge of a bailiff specially appointed.* They are not now worked.
The manor is thus described in the Doomsday Book : — " The same Kalph [de Felgeres]
holds of the Bishop (of Baieux) Calvedone,t which Derinc held of Zing Edward. It was
then assessed at 2 hides : now at the same. The arable land amounts to 2 carucates : and
there are in the demesne ; and there is a Church. In the time of King Edward it
was valued at 40s. ; afterwards at 20s. ; and now at £4."
In the reign of Henry II. this manor, with the advowson, belonged to Sir Eichard
Covert, said to have been the son of Bartholomew Covert, who came into England with the
Norman Conqueror, and obtained from him large estates in Sussex. Eoger Covert, or
de Covert, sixth in descent from Sir Eichard, conveyed the estate to Sir John Haunsard,
and Gundreda his wife, for their joint lives, in 1275, and it reverted to the Coverts in or
before 1298, when Eoger de Covert died seized of it. From an inquiry which took place
in 28 Edward I. it appears that the manor of Chalvedon was held of the King in socage,
and not by knight's service. In the fifteenth century it was sold by William Covert, of
Sullington, who died in 1444 ; and his grandson, "William Covert, of Slaugham, in 1476
released all his right in the manor of Chalvedon to certain persons, probably trustees for
Ann, widow of John Elmebrigge, whose son, Thomas Elmebrigge, left as his sole heiress a
daughter, who became the wife of Sir John Dannett. After repeated changes of owners
this estate was ultimately purchased in 1785 by William JoUiffe, Esq., grandfather of the
first Lord Hylton, on whose death in 1876 this manor devolved upon his son, the second
Lord Hylton.
The manor and farm of Tohivorth, or Tullesworth, in Chaldon and Merstham, formerly
belonged to the prior and canons of Merton. Queen Elizabeth in 1602 granted it to
John and Thomas Eoche, and after repeated transfers it was bought in 1724 by Paul
Docminique, Esq.
The Manor of Willey. — In 6 Edward III. John de Warblington died seized of a
tenement in Chalvedon called Willivi/ke, and his son and heir, of the same name, in 1368
obtained a grant of free-warren in this manor. Margaret de Warblington held it in 1485.
John Cooke in 1552 conveyed the estate to Sir Thomas Cawarden, of Bletchingley, who had
the right of free-warren confirmed by a grant from Queen Mary. Sir Thomas left it by will
to John Brown, and Alice his wife, whose son conveyed it to Eichard Betenson, Esq. ; and
* Vide Eot. Pat. 33 Edward III. pt. 3.
t In the fac-simile of Doomsday (Surrey) in Manmng the name is written Salvcdonc, probably by mistake.
CIIALDOX. 257
one of his dcsccmlauts, Sir Edward Betcnsou, Bart., died seized of it in IToo. lie had
suffered a recover}- of this estate in 1G91, and leaving no issue, AVilley, on his deatli, came
into the possession of Albinia, the eldest of his four sisters, -ndio married Lrigadier-Cleneral
Selwyn. In 1734 that lady sold the property to Sir William Clayton, liart., -whose
descendant, the present Sir "William Clayton, Eart., still owns it.
St.vxsxed. — Tins estate was formerly the property of a family whieh took its name from
the place. George Eoffey, Esq., of Camberwcll, in 1708 gave by will farms and lands
called Stansted, alias Fry erne, in Chaldon, to his daughter Joanna, and the heirs of her
body, with remainder to his nephew, George Eoffey, and his heirs male : remainder to his
own heirs. The estate came into the possession of the last-named George Eoffey, whose
two sons and daughter, in 1770, joined in a sale to Matthew Eobinson, who in 1781 resold
Stansted to Eichard Ilewetson, of Croydon; and he, dj-ing in 1790, devised it to his
nephew, Ilenry Ilewetson, Esq.
This living is a rectory, in the deanery of Ewell and diocese of Eochester. According
to Ecton, it is dedicated to St. Peter ; to St. John, according to "Willis ; but from the will
of Isabel, widow of Baldwin Covert, dated in 1440, it appears to have St. Peter and
St. Paul for its patron saints.* In 20 Edward I. Chaldon rectory was valued at 15 marks.
Rectors of Chaldon in and since 1800 : —
l.—Rohcrt Wclton. Instituted in 1780.
2.— Thomas Wdfon. Instituted in 1811.
3. — James Lerjrcv.', M.A. Instituted in 1830.
4. — Henry Shepherd, M.A. Instituted in 185G.
5. — Harrij Charrinrjton Fisher, M.A. Instituted in 187-5.
The church, which stands on an elevated site, is believed to have been founded in tlie
early Norman times. It has a nave, a south aisle, and a shorter north aisle. On each side
two arches, resting on round columns, divide the nave from the aisles. The chancel,
restored in 1807, and again in 1869, is separated from the nave by a low pointed arch. A
small vestry, lighted by a window, where probably a north door formerly existed, was
built in 1842. Originally this edifice had neither tower nor spire, though, if we may
judge from an existing basement suitable for the former, such an erection appears to have
been contemplated. Accordingly in 1843 the deficiency was supplied at a cost of about
.£200, defrayed by the rector and inliabitants. The tower, built of stone from the Merstham
* By the will above mentioneil the body of Ipabel Covert was ordered " to be buried in the Clmrcli of St. Peter and
St. Paul in Chalvedon, next the tomb of her husband."
258 HISTORY OF SVRRFA'.
quarries, is siirmoimted by a small shingled spire. There is one bell, which is hung in the
church roof. The most remarkable monument here is a freestone tablet within a niche on
the north side of the chancel, but to whom it belongs is unknown : it is fixed between
pilasters, surmounted by a pediment, in the centre of which is the sun with a human face,
thus surrounded : —
B,
1562
The inserii^tion, though not divided into lines, is of rude rhythmical construction, viz. : — -
Good Eedar, warne all men and women whil they be here to he over good to the poore and nedj- : tlie
poore ever in thys Tvorlde shall ye have. God grante us siimwhat in stoore, for to save the cry of the poore is
extreme and very sore. God graunte us to be goode evermore in this -worlde we run oure rase. God graunte us
to he vath Christ in tyme and siDace.
Against the north wall, near the yestry door, is a white marble tablet with the follow-
ing iiiscription : — •
Xear tliis marble lye the remains of Christian, the wife of John Home, a woman of great natural sagacity,
sincerity of heart, and firmness of mind. She siiffered shipwreck, and narrowly escaped with life in crossing
the seas to her husband in Jamaica. She made a second attempt and arrived in that unhealthy island, where
she lost a happy constitution. Her latter years proved her an uncommon pattern of exemplary patience, liaving
long sustained with decency and temper all the severities of a painfull and hopeless disease. She was born in
Scotland 22nd July, 1710, and died 29th December, 1752.
Just to thy worth, he whom thou moat hold dear.
Inscribes thy tomb, and drops a tender tear.
Here also are deposited the remains of tlie above-mentioned John Home. He died 21st April, 1770, aged
70 years. The love and esteem of all who knew him is the best testimony of his real character.
The pulpit, hexagonal in form, is inscribed, "Patience Lambert, 1657." The font is
an ancient square basin, with an octagon shaft of Merstham freestone. The chikben of the
poor are educated and clothed in a small free school, chiefly supported by the rector.
In 1870 Chaldon Church was restored by public subscriptions, the rector bearing the
cost of the work done in the chancel. During this restoration a remarkable and very
interesting fresco, covering nearly the whole of the west wall, was brought to light.
Strictly speaking, there are no gentlemen's seats in Chaldon. Large numbers of sheep
are bred and grazed here.
The entire number of acres in Chaldon parish is 1,643, and it comprises arable,
meadow, wood, common, parsonage garden, &c. In 1865 the common lands of ihis, jjarish
were apportioned and enclosed, 1,000 acres being added to the glebe. In this parish, says
Aubrey, "are two Freestone Quarries, from whose Meanders the Country people pretend to
draw stone with their Oxen and Hurdles for above half a mile." *
* " Suri'ey," vol. ii. p. 95. .
COULSDOX.
This parish is situated on tlic central chalk lulls of Surrey, bordering on tlie nortli
on Croydon, on the cast on Sanderstead, on the south, on Caterham, and on the west ou
Chipstcad and Beddington. The land is partly arable, mth wood lands, and open downs
adapted for the pasturage of sheep, many of which arc bred here. Formerly at Ilartlej'
Down there was a rabbit warren of 77 acres, but it was enclosed and converted into arable
land in 17G0. The entii-e number of acres in this parish is estimated at 4,313, of the
ratable value of £31,000.
Various ancient remains, some of them probably British, others Eoman, are still per-
ceptible in this parish. The Eoman road called the Stano Street jjassed tkrough Coulsdon
from Sussex, and the name of Wall Street is also mentioned in the Chertsey Ledger-book
as in Coulsdon. At the entrance of Farthing Down are faint traces of three dykes, which
extend about a quarter of a mile, and seem to have been thrown up as a barricade : some
of these dj^kes were opened in 1871. On the hill ascending from Smitham Bottom are
several small barrows, in one of which, opened about a hundred years ago, a complete
skeleton is said to have been found.*
There were two manors in the parish of Coulsdon at the time of the Doomsday surrey,
which are thus described : —
"The Abbey of Certesy holds Colesdone.f In the time of King Edward, it was
assessed at 20 liides : now at 3i hides. The land is 10 carucates. One carucate is in
demesne : and there are ten villains, and four cottars, with G carucates. There is a church.
The wood yields three swine. In the time of King Edward it was valued at £Q :
now at £7."
[Whatiington, or Waddon, in Coulsdon.)
" The same Abbey holds Watendone, which in the time of King Edward was assessed at
20 hides ; but now at 5 hides. The arable land amounts to 8 carucates. There is 1
carucate in demesne ; and there arc seventeen villains, aud two cottars, with 5 carucates.
* "At the entrance of Hooley-lane from Smitham-ljottoni a doiiljle bank and double ditch come do-mi the hill from
a little wood on the left to the road in Hooley-lane, now (1805) a good deal of them has been removed, but enough still
remains to shew them clearly ; on the top of the opposite hill they appear again, and are now the more visible fi-om
theii' ends having been lately exit off in maldng a new chalk-pit. On Eiddles-down are similar banks and ditches
descending from the top of the hill to the inclosures below, where, the land being arable, they are lost. Their direction
points to those in Hooley-lane. This ditch seems to be that which in the Chertsey Ledger-hook is called Newcdich or
fPtdetKc/i."— Manning, Surrey, vol. ii. p. 448.
+ There are at least sixteen difl'erent ways of spelling the name of this parish, but that of Coulsdon has oVitaincd
for a long series of years.
L X 2
26o HISTORY OF SURREY.
There is a cliurcli. The wood yields six swine for pannage. In tlie time of King Edward
it was valued at £G : now at £J1P
Eoger de Home, and Maud his wife, in 1269 purchased 161| acres of land in Cullesdon,
which Sir John Home, Knt., in 1307 conveyed to trustees for the foundation of a chantry
in C'hertsey Abbey, and the support of a secular chaplain. In 1321 Eoger Home, son of
Sir John, released the same lands to Charles de Seggcford, Eector of Cullesdon, Avho con-
veyed them to the abbey for the purpose just mentioned. The estate was held of the
manor of Coulsdon as one-eighth of a knight's fee. Lands also belonging to this manor,
which had been given at different times and by different donors, were held of the abbot
and convent of Chertsey by the master and brethren of the Hospital of St. Thomas of Aeon,
in London, and by the abbot and convent of Waltham, in Essex.
In 1538 the Abbot of Chertsey sold this manor, with those of Epsom, Sutton, and
Horley, to Henry YIIL, who in the same year granted them to Sir Nicholas Carew, of
Beddington. The disgrace and death of this courtier, with the forfeiture of his estates,
and their restoration to his family by Queen Mary, will be found related in our account
of Beddington. Sir Francis Carew, sou of Sir Nicholas, died unmarried, seized, inter alia,
of this estate, which, according to a settlement made in 1609, came into the possession of
Sir Eobert Darcy, descended from a sister of Sir Francis Carew. Sir Edward Darcy
held Coulsdon in 1668, and probably sold it to Sir Eichard Mason, to whom it belonged
in 1670. He left the estate by will, in 1685, to his wife and daughter, who in 1688
executed a joint conveyance to Sir Edward des Bouveries, an eminent Turkey merchant,
whose son and successor, Sir William, was created a Baronet in 1714. He had two sons,
the elder of whom having died without issue, this property devolved on his brother,
Jacob de Bouverie, who in 1747 was created Baron Longford and Viscount Folkestone.
This nobleman was very active in the formation of the Society for the Encouragement of
Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce, of which he was President in 1753 ; and he held the
office until his death, which happened in 1761. His son and heir, William, made
Earl of Eadnor in 1765, sold the manor and estate of Coulsdon, in 1782, to Thomas
Byron, Esq., whose grandson, Edmund Byron, Esq., is the present possessor. The
manor of Coulsdon includes the whole parish The metes and bounds of the manor arc
fully described in the Chertsey Ledger-book.*
* " A Court Roll of this manor," observes Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 448, " contains many curious particulars,
some are sucli as I do not remember to have seen in any other. Amongst them actions of trespass were here tried. In
13 Richard II. 1390, Richard Chapelet brought an action of trespass against William Lorkyn for taking away Katharine
his wife, with divers goods and chattels to the value of £10, to his damage of 100s. And he brought another action
against the same for detaining a hog, value 3s. 4d. These disputes were perhaps amicably settled, for there is no further
COULSDOX. 261
The chief residences in the parish arc Coulsdon Court, in a tine Avouded park close
to the church, the seat of Edmund Byron, Esq., avIio is lord of the manor ; IIooley
House, the residence of James Johnstone, Escp ; AVood Place, supposed to be "Za
Wodc, in Colesden " (mentioned in the Bishop's Eegister, Edindon, II. 37 a.), where, in
1357, Peter at Wode had the Bishop's license for an oratory in his house, now a ftirm in
the occupation of Mr. Edward Ilcnton ; and Portxall's Farji, the property of Sir- Nicholas
Carew in the time of Charles I., of Sir John Stanley in 17G2, of John Hibbcrt, Esq., in
1808, and now in the occupation of Mr. Joseph Linger. Another place of note is Kexley
House, which stands on the hill opposite Piddles Down. This is the property and residence
of John Young, Esq.
W/iattiiifftou, Wodiiidou, or WaJdington, described in the Doomsday Book, under the
name of Wafcndonc, as a distinct manor, has long since been united with that of Coulsdon.
Hemy YIII. obtained of the Abbot of Chcrtsey, by way of exchange, a part of the estate
here called Welcomb's and Lawrence's, and other lands in Whattiugton, which he
annexed to the honour of Hampton Court. In 1546 he granted this estate to Sir
Eiehard, Sir John, and William Gresham, in whose family it continued at least until
the early part of the seventeenth centiuy. It afterwards passed to several successive
proprietors, until, in 1800, it was bought by Chi-istopher Saville, Esq., which name he
had assumed in place of that of Atkinson. Joel de Garston, and Philippa his wife, were
owners of land in Coulsdon in 12C9, and also of a tenement in Whatiugdon called
Garston. Gabston Hall is the property of Edmund Byron, Esq., but has for a con-
siderable time been occupied by the kennel and hunting establishment of the subscrip-
tion pack of the Old Surrey Foxhounds.
The benefice of Coulsdon is a rectory, in the deanery of Ewell, and in the patronage
of the Ai'chbishop of Canterbury. In 20 Edward I. (1292) it was valued at 25 marks,
entry relating to them. In another action, damages were taxed at one Lusliel spnjgg [a species of com] price 7J.; iu
another at one bushel of oats price 3d. 15 Richard II. 1392, the tallage of the customary tenants this year was 20s.; the
pannage of the hogs 2s. 5^d. 19 Richard II. 1396, a man being admitted to a copyhold found pledges for his residing in
the house and doing no wa.ste. Joh'es atte Brome refused to sell ale without shewing a sign, therefore he is in mercy.
Jno. Prymnie who held of the Lord a tenement and half a virgate of native land to him and his, has lemoved out of the
lordship and refused to hold the land, whereupon there hapj^ened to the Lord for a hcriot a heifer wliich remains in tlie
Lord's hands. 14 Henry IV. 1413, tallage 2s. 6d. pannage 8Ad. 3 Henry VI. 1425, John Syrede of Croydon,
husbandman, espoused Agnes daughter of William Toller, one of the Lord's villans in gross, without license ; he came
and paid 6s. 8d. Jolm Combe, Prior of the Holy Cross of Reygate, who held a tenement and lands in Horlce by the
Common Seal, is dead, whereupon happened to the Lord for a relief certain, after the death or cession of every Prior
there, 10s. 9 Henry VI. 1431, Alice, daughter of Richard Colgrymme, one of the Lord's villans in gross, remains at
Chalvedon with Richard Aleyn without chivage, [i.e. money paid by a bondman for leave to go out of a manor], and
without license : two others the same ; they are ordered to be seized. Thomas Basset came, and gives to the Lord for the
chivage of Richard Colgrynmie the Lord's bondman, for license to stay with him till ilichaelmas next, Sd. Other nief?
or bondmen ordered to be seized."
z62 HISTORY OF SURREY.
aud iu the King's books at £21 16s. 5|d., paying for synodals 2s. Id., and for procura-
tions 7s, T^d.
Rectors of Conlsdon in and since 1800 : —
1. — Ilcnrij Goodi-iclce, B.D. Instituted in 1774.
2.— Henry John Todd, M.A. Instituted in 1807.
3. — John Cutis LocJavood. Instituted in 1820.
^.— William Wood, B.D. Instituted iu 1830.
5. — George Randolph. Instituted iu 1841.
G. — Hon. George Wingfield BourJce, M.A. Instituted iu 1866.
7. — David Dale Stewart, M.A. Instituted iu 1878.
The church, dedicated to St. John the Evangelist, is built of stone and flint, and at
the "west end is an embattled tower surmounted by a small shingled spire, aud coutaioing
five bells. It has a nave, and on each side a short aisle separated fi-om the nave by two
obtuse-pointed arches : a similar arch divides the nave from the chancel. In the south
wall of the chancel are two stone scats under pointed arches, separated by small round
pillars standing clear from the wall. Eastward of these seats was a piscina (now filled
up) under an arch of similar character. Formerly iu the south aisle also was a stoue
seat under an obtuse-pointed arch, eastward from which were two other seats under
niches, as in the chancel, one lower than the other ; and still farther to the cast was
a piscina under a similar arch. These have all been removed. Indeed, the church
has been greatly altered since it was visited and described by Mr. Bray about
180-j.* It was extensively repaii-ed in 1807, and restored, with a due regard to the
laws of church architecture, in 1864, at a cost of £1,000. A small organ was placed
here in 1843. Of the ancient painted glass in the chancel window described by
Aubrey, and vaguely referred to as of the time of King John, there are some slight
remains.
Diu-ing the different repairs and alterations of the church many of the old monu-
ments appear to have been taken down and lost. On the south wall, however, is one
well entitled to the attention of the curious. It consists of the figure of a woman imdcr
au arch, standing on a human skull, beneath which are bones banded together. On each
side is a cherub. The woman's right hand is on her breast ; her left holds a globe ;
slie is looking up to heaven, in which appears a rising sun bearing the name Jehovah.
Prom the several inscriptions about this monument, the principal of which are acrostic
* Viik Manning and Bray, " Surrey," yol. ii. p. 454.
SANDERSTFAD.
versos, it -would seem that the pcrsou thiis rqivcseiilccl was Grace EmveJ, wife of Thomas
AVood, and that she died in 1G35.*
Coiilsdon parsonage is a handsome stone buihling, erected iu 1811. Tliere is a small
IS'ational School iu this parish for the children of the poor ; aud also another, conduftcl
on similar principles, for the Kenley and Caterham Junction district. The Riiedji.vm
AsYLVM FOR Fatheuless CHILDREN, Capable of containing 300 inmates, was established hero
in 1845.
"WnATTiXGTON Chapel. — In a record of 13 Edward III. (a deed of John dc Passele
relating to Aldebiiry, in Merstham) John dc Cattesfield is described as "parson of
Wattington ; " and the presentations of the church of Coulsdou have sometimes been
" cum Capella "Whatingdon ; " but no institutions are found in the Bishops' Eegisters.
The capclla, or chapel, referred to escaped the first scramble in the time of Henry YIII. ;
but in 2 Edward VI. it was granted, with other chapels, to Henry Foisted, Esq. The
church of Coulsdon was included in that grant, but Mr. Foisted never obtained pos-
session of the latter. In the following year Wm. Worde was said to hold the chapel of
"WTiattington in socage. Afterwards the building was converted into a barn, and about
1780 it was accidentally destroyed by fire. In the Doomsday Book it is noticed as a
church. Caterham Junction, on the London, Brighton, and South Coast Fiailway, is in
tliis parish, about two miles north from the village.
SAXDERSTEAD.
This parish is situated about three miles to the south-east of Croydon, by Avhich,
and that of Addington, it is bounded on the east : it adjoins Warlingham on the south,
and Coulsdon on the west. The soil is calcareous, with a superficial stratum of gravel
towards the south. Sanderstead contains, by computation, about 2,260 acres, chiefly
arable, with 150 of down and 156 of wood, known as Sanderstead Wood. The downs
arc private property : there is no common.
Sanderstead is thus described in the Doomsday survey : — " The Abbey of St. Fcter
of Winchester holds Sanderstede. In the time of King Edward it was assessed at 18
hides: now at 5 hides. The arable land amounts to 10 carucates. One is in demesne ;
and there are twenty-one villains, and one cottar, with 8 carucates. There arc four
bondmen. The wood yields thirty swine. In the time of King Edward it was valued
at 100s. : afterwards at £1 : now at £12 ; and yet it produces £15."
* The inscriptions an^ given at length in Manni:;g, "Surrey," vol. ii. p. 45G.
2 6+ HISTORY OF SURREY.
Tlii.-s manor appears to lias'e been given to the abbot and convent of Ilycle, near
Winchester, by Ethelfleda, the first wife of the Anglo-Saxon King Edgar, and mother
of Edward the Martyr. In the reign of John or Henry III., Watkin Sannders, of
Sanderstede, left this manor and the advowson of the church to the abbey of Hyde ; but, as
the manor belonged to that monaster}^ before the jSTorman Conquest, it may be concluded
that Saunders held it on lease, and that he bequeathed only his interest in the property.
Henry VIII. in 1539 granted to the convent of Hyde a license to alienate to Sir John
Gresham the manors of Sandersted and Langhurst ; but at the dissolution of monasteries
Sir John obtained from the Xing a grant, in 1540, of all the monastic possessions in this
and some neighbouring parishes. He died in 1556, seized of the manor of Sandersted,
with the rectory and advowson, and the burgh of Langhurst, valued at £20 Os. 9^d. per
annum, held with other estates of the Crown, in cajyite, by knight's service, as the
twentieth part of a fee. This estate descended to Eichard Gresham, Esq., who in 1591
sold Sandersted, with Warlingham, to John Ownsted, Esq., of Addington, Sergeant of
the Carriages to Queen Elizabeth. This transfer of property held by a feudal tenure
having taken place without a royal license, the estates were seized by the Crown, and
Mr. Ownsted was fined ; but this being paid, and license granted, the bargain was ratified,
and in 1594 a release from Gresham to Ownsted was duly executed.
Mr. Ownsted died without issue in 1 GOO, having devised his estates in Siu-rey, after
his widow's decease, to his cousin, Harmau Attwood, and his two sisters.* Mr.
Attwood, an attorney of Clifi'ord's Inn, London, purchased the shares of the legatees,
and thus became proprietor of Sanderstead as well as of Mr. Ownsted's other estates.
The property was held by the Atwoods until the death of John Atwood, Esq., in 1759,
who, having no children, gave it to his nephew, Thomas "Wigsell, attorney-at-law, New
Inn, London. This gentleman died in 1778, having devised his estates to his nephew,
Atwood Wigsell, who died immarried ; and his brother and successor, the Eev. Thomas
Wigsell, having no issue, settled the property on his sister Susanna for life, with
remainder to Atwood Wigsell Taylor, on whom it devolved in 1807, and who, though
a minor at the time, assumed the name and arms of Wigsell in pursuance of the will
of the devisee. He died in 1821 : his son and successor, Atwood Dalton Wigsell, Esq.,
the late lord of the manor, died in 1878. His widow is the owner of nearly the whole
of the parish.
* From tlie monumental inscriptions in tlie church and churchyard it appears that the family of Mr. Atwood (whose
name has been thus spelt for several generations) had long been settled here. In the adjoining parish of Coulsdon the
name is found as early as the time of Edward II.
SAXDERSTEAD. 265
PuRLEY. — Purley, or Pirley, is an ostuto in tliis parisli fV)rnu'rly Ix-louging to a family
to M-hom it gave name. AYilliam tie Pirelea, son of Osbert de Pirclca, had a grant
from John, Abbot of Hide, of the moiety of a wood called Nithca, in the manor of Sander-
stead, and he pnrehased here other lands held under the convent. In 1.332 Reginald
de Pirlc obtained a license from the Bishop of Winchester to have divine service eeU"
brated in his oratory in Sanderstead, and in 1346 a similar license was granted to Tdlin
de Piu-le. The estate remained with the Purleys until the reign of E(hvavd IV., \\\n-\\
it was divided into two parts, called respectively East and West Purley.
East Pueley. — In the time of Elizabeth this estate belonged to Sir Thomas Saunder,
liemembrancer of the Exchequer, who, on his marriage with the daughter of Sir Edmnnd
Walsingham, settled it on her in dower. In 1-380 their son and heir, Edmund Saunder,
of Charlwood, conveyed the reversion of the estate (or manor) of Purley, alias East
Purley, to Arnold King, of Beckenham, in Kent, who in the same year transferred it to
Edmund Gresham ; and he is supposed to have sold it to Mr. Ilarman Attwood, sen., to
whom it belonged in 1G19. East Purley, or Purley Bury, is now in the occupation of
John n. Smith, Esq.
West Pukley. — The family of Purley probably became extinct before tlie middle of
the fifteenth century. In 1442 Margaret Kiricl and Johanna Frollebury, who may
have been coheiresses of that family, granted the lands of Xorth Eidle and West Purle
to John Stopynton (Master of the Eolls) and John Kiriel ; and four years later Kiriel
granted Pirle to Eicliard Colkote and William Elenbrig. This estate subsequently
belonged to the familj^ of Ive, who held it as late as lo3S, soon after which it A\as
the property and residence of Henry Polsted, Avho, jointly ■\\ith his son, in 1554 conveyed
it to Humphrey Cavell. It then passed in succession to several proprietors, and in the
reign of Charles I. Ealph Hawtrey, who died seized of it, left several sous, who conveyed
it to Lewis Audeley, Esq. This gentleman, who had married the widow of Mr. Hawtrey,
was a major in the army of the Parliament during the civil war, and was appointed by
Oliver Cromwell a commissioner for the regulation of church benefices. It is said that
through his interest the Eev. King Atwood, Eector of Sandcrstcad, was allowed to
continue the service of the Established Church in his parish during the interregnum.
In 1661 Major Audeley conveyed this estate to Harman Attwood the younger, Avho
also obtained a further conveyance from the heii-s of Ealph Hawtrey ; thus he became
possessed of both East and West Purley, as well as of Sanderstead. The whole property
subsequently descended through the Wigsells to tlic late owner, Atwood Dalton Wigsell,
Esq., but the divisional distinction of East and West Purley has been long forgotten.
VOL. III. J! M
266 HISTORY OF SURRFA'.
PuRLEY House was long in the occupation of Edward IScdwell Kemblo, Esq., by whom
it was much improved. It was formerly the residence of William Tooke, and whilst in his
possession the Eev. John Home (who afterwards assumed the name of Tooke) wrote here
his celebrated philological work entitled " EIIEA IITEPOENTA, or the Diversions of
Purley," first published in octavo in 178G.*
Sandeestead House, or Place, the manorial residence, is a spacious brick mansion,
which stands in a park of between 50 and 60 acres in extent, adjoining the church, in
which are some large and stately elms : behind the house is a fine cedar of Lebanon, f
The living of Sandcrstead is a rectory, valued in the Taxation of Pope Nicholas at
£18 13s. 4d., and in the King's books at £7 9s. S-^d., paying 7s. 7-^d. for procurations,
and 2s. Id. for syuodals. The advowsou, which anciently belonged to the Abbot of Hyde,
near Winchester, was granted, with the manor, by Henry VIII., to Sir John Gresham ; and
the patronage is now vested in the representative of the late Atwood Dalton Wigsell, Esq.
lieciors of Sanderstead in and since 1800 : —
1. — John Courtney^ M.A.
2 .—.4 timod Wigsell Wif/sell, M.A. Died in 1 82 1 .
?K—Jo/m Courfiic,//, M.A. Instituted in 1821.
-1. — Jolin II. Randolph^ M.D. Instituted in 1845.
5. — John Randol^ih, M.A. Instituted in 1860.
The church, dedicated to All Saints, consists of nave and chance], with north and south
aisles extending the length of the nave only, separated by obtuse arches. It is sub-
stantially built with fiint, having stone quoins and window-frames. At the west end is a
slender tower, rough cast, with two bells and a shingled spire. In 1832 the chancel was
completely renovated by the Eev. John Courtney. The entrance is by a large south porch.
In the east window, a trij^let of the pointed form, were some slight remains of painted
glass. This church was carefully restored in 1847, at a cost of £1,100. Schools have
since been erected.
* That work was afterwards enlarged into two vols, quarto, but never completed. In the introdirction the aiithor,
with reference to his own political opinions, has humorously alluded to Purley having been once the seat of Bradshaw,
President of the High Court of Justice at the trial of Charles I. Mr. Tooke died at Wimbledon in 1812, and was buried
at Ealing ; yet it had long been his intention to be interred in his o^vn garden, and he had a vault and tombstone
prepared for that purpose under his own direction : on the latter was engraven this epitaph : —
John Hobne Tooke, late Proprietor, and now Occupier, of this spot, was born in June, 1736 ; died in
Aged years ; Contented and Grateful.
t Many years ago a good house, called the Place House, was bought from Sir John Stonehouse by the Wigsells, by
whom it was pulled down, and the ground laid into their park.
SAXDERSTEAD. 267
There are in this church many indiiumcnts and had'hinonts, t(\tiotlier wIlli various oM
brasses, some of ■which are iu tlicir original positious, aiul others (h'taclied. Tlmso most
entitled to notice are the following : —
Against the uortli -wall is a monument of white marble, showing tlie efiig^- (under an
arch) of a man in armour kneeling before a desk, on which lies an open book ; beneath is
tliis inscrij)tion : — -
Here lieth tlic bodie of John Ownsted Esquyer [of Sauderstcdc-corte], servauut to the most excellent
rrincess and our dread Soveraigne Queciie Elizabeth, and Seijant of her MaHes Carriage by y* space of 40 yeres.
He died in y<! CG yere of his age on the 9"" of August, 1000.
At the east end of the south aisle is a low altar tomb, on which is the fidl-lengtlistatiu',
in white marble, of a lady in a Avinding- sheet lying upon a mat ; her head rests on a
cushion, and her right hand is placed over the heart. The execution of the figure is
unusually good, and from the inscription, which is in Latin, we learn that it was
sculptured in memory of Mary, daughter of Matthew Bedell, Esq., and the wife iu
succession of Ealph Ilawtrey and Lewis Audeley, Esqs., both of whom were owners of
this manor. She died in 1005.
Of several memorials for the mercantile familj' of j\[ellish, the most striking is a black
marble tablet placed against the south Avail, between two Corinthian columns of white
marble. It bears a long Latin inscription to the memory of George Mellish, Esq., of
Ijondon and Sanderstcad, Avho died in 1054. Another inscription, on a white marble
tablet afnxed to a pillar on the north side of the church, records the death of Henry
Mellish, merchant, of the Levant, " a person truely generous, Avho, having with great
vertue and Industrie indured the inconvoniencies of several j'ears travcll in foreign
countries, Avhich contracted a lingering Aveakness on his body," died in 1G77.
On the north wall is a marble monument (surmounted by the arms of Mellish),
presenting the bust of a young man Avith a large flowing Avig. Beneath are the following
somewhat outrageously laudatory lines : —
Here lies a Youth who virtue's race had run,
When scarce his ycares of manhood were begun :
So swift a progress called for early rest.
And plac'd his soul betimes among the bleat.
Another such our age despairs to find,
Of charming person and accomplisli'd mind,
AVhere's manly sense and sweetest temper join'd
But Fame's large volume would be fiU'd to tell
Those qualities in which he did excell !
Then, Reader, dropp a tear, and only say.
Death saw the virtuous youth prepar'd to pay
Great Nature's debt, and call'd before its day.
268 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Amongst the monuments to the Wigsell family is a white marble tablet in the chancel,
inscribed to the memory of the Eev. Atwoocl Wigsell "Wigsell, M.A., rector of this parish,
who died in 1821. A tablet was erected here by his parishioners to the memory of the
Eey. John Courtney, M.A., rector, who died in 1845. The surplus of that subscription
proved sufficient for the entire renewal of the eastern window of the chancel, and for other
improvements. In the south aisle is a mural monument to the memory of George Smith,
Esq., of Selsdon, brother of Eobert, Lord Carrington, nearly forty years M.P., and a
director of the East India Company. He died in 183G.
In the churchyard are several stones to the memory of the Atwood family, who have a
burial-place here, surrounded by an iron railing. Much stained by exposure to the weather
is a coarse marble tomb in memory of " Thomas Knight, late Mason-in-Chief to the City of
London, who dyed in 1680." Some quaint verses conclude the inscription.
Nearly in the centre of the churchyard is a remarkably fine old yew-tree ; and there
arc two or three smaller ones, which, from their appearance, are yet more ancient. The
parsonage is a plain brick building of the date of 1680. A Board School Avas erected here
in 1875.
Christ Church. — This church, the foundation stone of which was laid in 1877 by his
Grace the Archbishop of Canterbury, has been erected from the design of Mr. James
Eowler, architect, of Louth. The style is early decorated, the exterior of the edifice being
of Kentish rag, with Bath stone dressings. Internally it consists of nave, chancel, north
and south aisles, north transept, organ chamber, and vestry on the south side of the
chancel, and a western porch. In length it is nearly 100 feet, with a width of 25 feet
inside. On entering the church by the western porch the introduction of colour into
the walls is a very noticeable feature, red brick being the principal material throughout.
The handsome reredos is of Caen stone, with an alabaster retable. On the south side of the
chancel is an arched sedilia, and on the north side is the credence. The roofs, being
without breaks from beginning to end, give length and a dignified appearance to the
building, and are interlaced with deal rafters and tie-beams. The seating throughout is
of pitched pine, and arrangements have been made for the accommodation of 400
Avorshippers. Great variety is shown in the treatment of the window tracery, and also in
the exquisite carving executed by Mr. Euddock, of London. The font was, with the hand-
some communion cloth, presented by Mrs. and Miss Heath and their friends.
Selsdon. — Immediately adjoining Sanderstead is Selsdon, which in the tenth century
was the property of Duke Elfred, a Saxon nobleman, from whose will Mr. Manning derived
the following particulars : — "Duke Elfred died seised of 32 hides in Sanderstede and in
]rOODMAXSTERNE. 269
Selcsdiuie iu Sandcrstedc, which lie bequeathed, Avith the live stock and all the appur-
tenances to Werburg his wife for life, and afterwards to Aldhryth his daughter and her
issue, and if she had none, then to his next of kin by his father's side." *
There can be no doubt of the ancient estate called Sdcsdiinc having i'ormed part of the
manor of Sandcrstead long before the Doomsday survey; and it was most probably a
portion of the 18 hides given to the abbey of Hyde by Ethelfleda, queen of King Edgar,
and mother of St. Edward, king and martyr, as stated in the list of the possessions of that
house recorded in a manuscript in the British Museum quoted by Dugdalc.f After the
dissolution of monasteries in the reign of Henry YIIL, Sandcrstead, with Selsdon, passed
through some intermediate ownerships into the possession of John Ownsted, Esq., of
Sanderstead Court, " Serjant of Carriages" to Queen Elizabeth, as stated iu the inscription
to his memory before noticed.^
At a subsequent period Selsdon became the property of the Bowycrs, of Avhom Aubrey
says that Christoj)her Bowyer, gent., a generous hospitable person, " was interred at the
east end of the churchyard of Sanderstead," but had no memorial erected over his grave.
At that time there was a small house belonging to the Bowycrs on the site of the present
mansion. After several intermediate transfers Selsdon came into the possession of
Wm. Coles, Esq., by whom, in 1809, it was sold to George Smith, Esq., M.P., who, dying
iu 1836, was interred at Sanderstead. § His estates were inherited by his eldest son, Geo.
E. Smith, Esq., late M.P. for Midhurst, and subsequently for High Wycombe.
Selsdon HorsE is a handsome building, situated on an eminence about thi'ce miles
south-east of Croydon, and commanding extensive views over Surrey and Kent. It was
much enlarged by the late i^-oprietor, and forms an example of the castellated Gothic
character. A few years ago a conservatory was erected, from the designs of Messrs. "W'yatt
and Brandon, in the Elizabethan style. The gardens are arranged in natural terraces, and
have also been much embellished and improved. In its general aspect the surrounding
home scenery is singularly rural and retired. Selsdon House is now tenanted by the
Bishop of Eochester, Dr. Thorold.
WOODMAXSTERNE.
Woodmanston, or, as written by the parochial authorities, Woodmanslcnic, ia bounded
on the north and east by Carshalton, on the south by Chipstead, and on the west by
Banstead. It is a small parish, partly consisting of downs, used for sheep-walks, and
* Manning and Bray, " Suney," vol. ii. p. 5G8. + " Monasticun," vol. ii. p. .33(), new edit. 1819.
t See ante, p. 267. § See anl,; p. 2G8.
2 70 HISTORY OF SURREY.
reported to be the highest hiud in the county, except Leith Ilill* The soil is chalk, witk
much flint. It is described as follows in the Doomsday Book : —
" Eichard (de Tonbridge) holds in demesne Odemerestor. Azor held it of King
Edward ; and it was then assessed at 15 hides, and is now at the same, but never paid the
geld \iiunquam (jelJiun dcdif]. The arable land amounts to 3 carucates. There are 2 caru-
cates in the demesne ; and one yillain, and twelve cottars, with 3 carucates. There are
eighteen bondmen : and a church ; and a mill at 20s. ; and 4 acres of meadow. The wood
yields ten swine. In the time of King Edward it was valued at £10 ; subsequently at
100s. ; and now at £8." f
Nigel dc Mowbray, who lived in the reign of Henry I., appears to have held this
manor ; and he gave to the canons of St. 3Iary Overy, in Southwark, the church of Wood-
mansterne, with some others, which grant was confirmed by the Bishop of Winchester in
1174. The manor afterwards belonged to William de Ferrers, Earl of Derby, who died
iu 1254, leaving by his first wife Sibil, daughter of William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke,
seven daughters, one of whom, Maud, Avas thrice married, and by her first husband,
William de Kyme, she had two daughters, Mabel, the eldest of whom, was the wife of
Fulk de Archiaco, who held the manor as her inheritance, and died seized of it in or before
1304. This estate afterAvards became the subject of controversy between his descendants
and their representatives and those of his wife's sister Cecily, widow of John Beau-
champ, of Hacche, who ultimately vindicated their claim to the property. Woodmansterne
appears to have been transferred, together Avith the Beauchamp estate at Chipstcad, to
different families till about the middle of the sixteenth century ; and both were then held
by the Scotts of Camberwell, who, however, had only a share of the Woodmansterne
property. Woodmansterne seems to have passed, in the same manner as the Beauchamp
estate at Chipstead, to John, third Lord Beauchamp (who died in 35 Edward III.), and
afterwards to his two sisters and coheiresses, Cecily, Avidow of Eichard Turbervillo, and
* The site of tlie parsonaL;c, a most lovely spot, tlioiigli h\ no means the moot elevated land in the parish, is said to
be on a level with the cross of St. Paul's Cathedral.
+ The designation in the record has been thought by some to be a mistalie for Odemereston. The late Dr. Buchanan,,
rector of the parish for more than half a century, -was, however, accustomed to observe that ode is the Anglo-Saxon wode,
emitting the ic; that mere is to this day a lake, or pond, in the north of England; that this parish, high as the ground
is, has a great deal of wood, and several ponds, one of which is called Mere Pond; that the first two syllables, therefore,
give a plausible etymology for that part of the name ; but that the last wants explanation, unless tor may be taken (and
apparently it may) as a reference to tlie lieight nf the ground. In the Taxation of Pope Nicholas the parish is styled
Wodemerethome ; and in the Inquisili..ius ju.st Jrurteni, iu the lime of Edward II., AVodemerston and AA^odemere-
thorne. (Mamiing, "Surrey," vol. ii. [i. 4(i(i.) AVe are infovniea, liowever, that in a deed of 29 Edward I., extant
among the papers of th.e Lambert family of tliis parisli, the orthography is Ihe .-^aiae as tliat which is now locally used—
iroodmansterne.
^.^
wooin/AxsTj'Rxi-:. 271
Eleanor, widow of Sir Jolin Marriot. Thoy appear to liavo eoujointly coiiveye:! their
rights to Hugo Mctche, knight of the shire iu 11 Eichard II., and from hiiu it passed to
liis daughter and heiress Joau, wife of John Norton, and eventually to her grand-daughter
Joan, wife of John Skinner, of Eeigate, whose descendant, Elizabeth Skinner, was married
to John Scott, of Camberwell, son of John Scott, a Baron of the Exchequer, grantee of
Camberwell-Buckingham by Henry YIII. in 1-321.
John Scott died in 1508, seized of two-thirds of the manor of Woodmansterne. Eobert
Harrys, or Harris, had an interest in this manorial estate, and in 1G08 Eichard Eliot, Esq.,
died seized of a purparty of the manor. The manor-house is a spacious and handsome
dwelling, a'.;d its park-like grounds are laid out with great taste.
The whole manor afterwards became united \>j successive purchases in Sir Ivlmuud
Bowyer, luit., of Camberwell, and passed to his nephew, a second Sir Edmund liowyer,
Kut., whose daughter Elizabeth was wife of Sir James Ashe. His daughter and heiress,
llartha, was married to John Windham, Esq., of Earsham, Norfolk. They left issue a
son, Joseph Windham, of Earsham, CamberAvell, and Woodmansterne, a gentleman of
considerable taste and accomplishments, who contributed largely to the letterpress of the
" Ionian Antiquities " published by the Dilettanti Society, of which he was an active
member. He married Charlotte, daughter ox William, first Lord Walsiugham, but died
without issue iu 1810. Upon the death of Mr. Joseph Windham's widow, who occupied
the manor-house until her death, the Woodmansterne property passed to the issue of his
sister Anne, formerly married to Sir William Smijth, Eart., of Hill Hall, Essex, a
descendant of Sir Thomas Smith, Secretary of State to Queen Elizabeth, Chancellor of the
Order of the Garter, and Erovost of Eton College. Lady Smijth loft three sons, mIm
inherited this property in succession, viz. Sir Thomas, who succeeded and died in 1800
S.E. ; Sir John, a commander iu the royal navy, who died in 1838 S.E. ; and Sir Edward,
who, on acceding to the baronetcy, took the name of Eowyer in addition to that of Smijth.
He sold the manor, with the manor-house and about 70 acres of laud, to the Eov. John
George Storie, Vicar of Camberwell, who resold it to Joseph Smith, Esq., who had
Ijrcviously purchased the Oaks, in this parish.
The Lambert family had here a house with land, said to have passed in regular descent
ever since the Conquest. The house has been taken down, but the stone mautelpiece,
which was in the oak-room, is preserved by the fiimily.
Stagbury. — The house and grounds called Stagb\iry, with an adjoining farm named
Doghm-st, were purchased in 1800 of the representatives of General Hyde by Thomas
Walpole, Esq., eldest son of the Hon. Thomas Walpolc (second son of the first Lord
112 HISTORY OF SURREV.
Walpole, of Wolterton), avIio had formerly lived at Carslialtou House, as mentioned under
Carshalton in this -work. Mr. "VYalpole, who was many years Envoy Extraordinary and
Minister Plenipotentiary at the court of Munich, retired from the diplomatic service, and
purchased this property in 1800. He died in 1840, and was buried at Chipstead, the
adjoining parish. His widow, Lady Margaret Walpole, daughter of John, second Earl of
Egmont, resided here until her death in 185G. The Eev. Thomas Walpole, Honorary
Canon of Winchester, and Rector of Alverstoke, Hants, is the present owner of Stagbury,
and is an occasional resident there.
The advowson of this living was given to the priory of St. Mary Overy, in Southwark,
by Nigel de Mowbray, in the twelfth century ; but it appears from the Valor of 20
Edward I. that the monks of Bee, in Normandy, derived a pension of 30s. from its
revenues. It was then valued at 13 marks, and in the King's books at £11 7s. Gd., paying
Is. 9d. for procurations and synodals. It is a rectory in the rural deanery of Ewell. The
Eegistors commence in 156G, but are not complete. The patronage is vested in the
Crown.
Rectors of Woodmansterne in and since 1800 : —
1.— Gilbert Buchanan, LL.D. Instituted in 1784.
2.— C. Maitland Long. Instituted in Feb., 1834.
o.— Charles John Crawford, D.l). Instituted in May, 1834.
L— Alfred Eoherts, B.A. Instituted in 1871.
The church, dedicated to St. Peter, was rebuilt in 1877-8, at a cost of £2,000 : it
consists of a nave and chancel, with a tower, containing two bells, surmounted by a spire.
Formerly the farmers in this parish had great difficulty in obtaining a sufficiency of
manure, and their poorer lands were kept in sainfoin seven or eight years before being
broken up for wheat, which was then sown without dressing. For many years past, how-
ever, the principal landowners have, in despite of a heavy expense, obtained manure from
the metropolis. Some of the downs were also broken up and put imder tillage.
The Oaks. — This fine Elizabethan mansion, long the favourite Imnting seat of the
Earl of Derbj', the founder of the " Oaks " and the " Derby " stakes at Epsom races, is in
the parish of Woodmansterne, about two miles south from the village of Carshalton, and
on the A'erge of Banstead Downs. It stands in an extensive and well-wooded park, and
took its name from a grove of ancient oaks, called " Lambert's Oaks," still preserved in the
demesne. The house in its original form was built by a society of gentlemen known as
the "Hunters' Club," to whom the land Avas leased by Mr. Lambert, Avhose family had
UVODJ/A XSTERATE.
273
been owners for many generations. Intended as a place of festivity in {\\o linnting season,
it was occupied in succession by Mr. Simmons, Sir Tlios. Gosling the banker, and General
I3ui-goyne, by tlie latter of -\vliom the house and grounds were much improved, and a large
dining-room built. Burgoyne sold the lease to Edward, eleventh Earl of Derby, whoso
youngest daughter, the Lady Charlotte, he had secretly married when yet a subaltern.
Whilst the Oaks belonged to that nobleman a splendid fclc chumpHvc was given here in
1774, in honour of the approaching nuptials of his grandson. Lord Stanley, with the Lady
Betty Hamilton (the " Queen of the Oaks "), the only daughter of the Duke of Hamilton
and Brandon and the Duchess of Argyll.*
Lord Stanley, afterwards Earl of Derby, having acquired the fee-simple of this property
in 1788, enclosed much of the common field, and made a plantation about two miles in
circumference, the whole at this time comprising upwards of 180 acres. Lord Derby also
added, at the west end, a large brick building Math a circular tower at each angle, a similar
erection at the east end, but of less elevation, rendering the structure somewhat imiform.
Lord Derby, who was remarkable for his hospitality, had a pack of staghounds here, and
could accommodate his guests with upwards of fifty bedchambers.
After the decease of the Earl in 1834 this estate was transferred to Sir Charles Grey,
who in 1842 disposed of it by private contract to two gentlemen, Joseph Smith, Esq., and
John Jones, Esq., who had married two sisters; but the arrangement did not last long,
* Lord Staaley was married at Argyll House, in LuuJou, in 1774 ; but the festival at the Oaks look place a
fortniglit previous to tlie wedding. On tliat occa,sion a magnificent pa^dlion of the Corinthian order was erected in the
gardens from the designs of Robert Adam, Esq., architect (one of the builders of the Adelphi), ^^•hich included a state-
room 120 feet long, with corresponding ball and supper rooms, all of which were superbly decorated. Among the invited
company (who were arrayed in fancy dresses) were nearly three hundred of our principal nobility ; and many thousand
persons were admitted into the grounds to witness the entertainments, the report of which had e.xcited great interest, this
being the first fcie. champitre given in this country. All the arrangements were conducted \>y General Burgoyne, who
wrote a sylvan masque for this festival, the music of which was composed by Bartliolomew, and was afterwards introduced
at Drury Lane Theatre in Bui'goyne's once popular drama, called The Maid of the Oaks. The rooms and gardens were at
night most splendidly illuminated, and the trees were hung witli festoons of beautiful flowers. Rural games were
introduced on the principal la^^^l ; and dances, both serious and comic, were performed under the direction of the ballet-
master of the Opera-house, independently of minuets and country dances by the assembled company. The lady for
whose entertainment these joyous scenes had been devised died in 1797 ; and the Earl married secondly the celebrated
actress. Miss Farren, who died in 1829. Two engiavings, by Caldwell ami C. Grignion, of the interiors of the ball and
supper rooms in the pavilion were published in 1760. They give a fair idea of the gaj' dresses of the company, and of
the rich effect of the architectural arrangements and decorations. A detailed description of the fete was published in the
Goitlemaiis Magazine for June, 1774 ; and a more brief account in the Annual Register for tlie same year. During the
American war General Burgoyne led the army which was to penetrate from Canada into the revolted provinces. He
experienced serious revei-ses, and was obliged to surrender his entire force to the Americans at Saratoga. Being disgusted
with his reception frcm Government after his return from America, he resigned his military employments. Tlie Maid of
die Oaks Avas not the only dramatic production of his pen : he wrote also The Heiress, and Richard, Caur de Lion, and
converted Beaumont and Fletcher's Custom of the Country into The Lord of the Manor. He died suddenly in 1792, and
was interred in the cloisters of Westminster Abbev.
274 HISTORY OF SURREY.
and Mr. Smith, wlio acquired the whole property, made very considerable interior altera-
tions, and greatly improved the house. He continued residing there until 1877, when he
offered the Oaks for sale and removed to London, where he died not long after. The
Oaks was bought by the Earl of Kosebery.
BEDDINGTON.
This parish is bounded on the north by Mitcham, on the east by Croydon, on the
south by Coulsdon and Woodmansterne, and on the west by Carshalton. It contains
about 3,930 acres of land, of the ratable value of £17,620. In the Conqueror's time
there were 25 plough lands in the two manors noticed under Beddingtone in the
Doomsday Book, and which appear to correspond with those afterwards called Home-
Beddington, or West Court, andHuscarle's Manor. Within this parish, also, are the manor
of Wallington, which gave name to the hundi-ed, and the reputed manors of Bandon, or
Forester's, Freres, and the Archbishop of Nazareth's.*
Within this parish, and especially at Woodcote, urns and other relics, apparently of
Eoman origin, have been foimd. The ancient Stane Street, crossing this county from south
to north, appears to have passed by Woodcote, and is supposed by Talbot, the commentator
on the " Itinerary " of Antoninus, to have been the site of the station called Noviomagus ;\
and Camden and other learned antiquaries have advanced the same opinion. Salmon states
that foundations of buildings have been discovered, and lu-ns, spear-heads, and other
ancient remains disinterred both at Beddington and Wallington.
Manor of Home-Beddingtok. — "Eobert de WatevUe holds of Eichard [de Tonbridge]
Beddingtone, which Azor held of King Edward. It was then assessed at 25 hides : now
at 3 hides. The arable land consists of 6 carucates. One carucate is in demesne ; and
there are sixteen villains, and foui'teen cottars, with 5 carucates. There is a church ; and
five bondmen ; and two mills at 40s. ; and 21 acres of meadow. The wood yields five
swine. Fifteen houses in London pertain to this manor, paying 12s. 4d. In the time of
King Edward it was valued at £10, and the same at present ; but when received, at £6."
The De Wateviles, by purchase or otherwise, subsequently obtained full possession of
* In 26 Echrard III. the Arclibisliop of Nazareth demised " his manor of Beddington " to John Burgeys, citizen of
London, for thirteen years ; hut Manning, mth much probability, considers that this was nothing more than a house
belonging to the Archbishop, the houses of the religious [ecclesiastics] being at that time frequently called manors.
(" Surrey," vol. ii. p. 528.)
t See Leland, " Itinerary," vol. iii. pp. 136, 157.
BEDDINGTON. 275
this manor, and held it immediately of the Crown by the service of rendering annually a
wooden crossbow.
In 1159 Ingelram de Funtcneys [Fontibus] and Sibyl de Watevile, sister of William de
Watevile and wife of Alan Pirot, gave the advowson of the chiu-ch of Bcddiugton to the
priory of Bermondsey.* In 1196 the estate had fallen into the hands of the King, for in
that year the Sheriff of Surrey rendered an account of £8 for the firm of Bcdinton, which
had belonged to Ingelram de Fontibus ; and fi-om the Testa do Nevill we find that Richard I.
gave 10s. rent in Beddington to William de Ess. His son, Eustace de Ess, died in 1205,
and the land again reverted to the Crown. Henry III. in 1245 granted to Eaymuud de
Laik, or Lucas, and his heirs, all the lands in Beddington formerly held by the family of
Eys, or Ess, to hold by the service of presenting a wooden bow at Pentecost. f Isabella,
daughter and heiress of Raymund de Laik, married Eeginald Gacelin, and, dying in 1262,
left a son called John de Eoges, or Rogers, whose legitimacy was disputed ; but afterwards,
in 1287, he paid 20s. for the relief of the lands held by Isabel of the King in capite at
the time of her decease. He died without issue in 1302, when the manor escheated to the
King, Edward I., who granted it to Thomas Corbet, his valet {valedus suns), to hold on the
same terms as the preceding tenants. The estate remained in the possession of the Corbets
until 12 Edward III., when Thomas de Merle, who had probably bought it of the Corbet
family, obtained the King's license to hold it under the same conditions.
Some irregularities in the transfer of the manor (first to Thomas de Brayton, clerk, and
secondly to Richard de Wyloghby, or Willoughby, sen.) soon after took place; and in 1345
the King granted his pardon for an alienation without license, on the payment of a fine of
100s. Sir Richard de Willoughby had an only daughter, Lucy, married first to Sir
Thomas Huscarle, and afterwards to Nicholas Carreu, to the latter of whom, and his heirs,
the fee-simple of this manor was alienated by his wife's father about 1360, it being then
of the annual value of 100s. Shortly after Carreu purchased the other manor called
Huscarle's ; hence both manors became consolidated, and, with a short interval, were held
by the Carew family till the present century.
Manor op Beddinoton-Huscaele. — This manor is thus described in the Doomsday
Book : — " Milo Crispin holds Beddingtone, and William the son of Tui-old holds it of ]iim_
Ulf held it of King Edward ; and it was then assessed at 25 hides ; now at 3 only. There
are 6 carucates of arable land. One is in demesne ; and thirteen villains, and thii'toeu
cottars have 6 carucates. There is one bondman, and two mills at 35s., and 20 acres of
meadow. The wood yields five hogs. In the time of King Edward the manor was valued
* Dugdale, " llonasticon,'' vol. v. p. 97. + Cart. Antiq. K. K. 7, 29 Hen. III. in Hurl. MS. Ko. 80.
N N 2
276 HISTORY OF SURREY.
at £10 ; afterwards at £6 ; and now at £9 10s. Twenty-one houses (13 in London, and
8 in Sudwerche, Southwark) belonging to this manor, which paid 12s., have been detached,
and are held by Earl Eoger [de Montgomery]."
This manor appears to have been held by the Huscarles as early as the reign of King
John, who granted to Dionysius, his chaplain, land at Bedington which had belonged to
William Huscarle. The Lady Beatrice Huscarle was in possession in 1321, and in 1348
Bishop Edindon granted a license to Sir Thomas Huscarle, and Ijucy his wife, to have a
private chapel in their manor-house at Beddington. In the following year it was found
that Simon at Woodcote held a toft and 6 acres of land here, from Thomas de Huscarle, by
the service of one rose, of the value of 3s. per annum. After the decease of Sir Thomas,
his relict, as before stated, married Nicholas de Carreu, who subsequently obtained from the
several coheirs of Sir Thomas Huscarle releases of all their respective claims and rights as
to this property.
■Nicholas de Carew in 1362 was one of the knights of the shire for Surrey, and in 1372
he was made Keeper of the Privy Seal by Edward TIL, who likewise appointed him one of
his executors. He died in 1391, seized of the manors of Home-Beddington and Huscarles,
and several other manors in the neighbouring parishes.*
Nicholas, his son and heir, was Sheriff of Surrey in 15 Eichard II., and again in 2
Henry lY. : he also represented this county in several Parliaments. In 9 Henry Y, he
made a settlement of his estates, from which it appears that he had manors and possessions
in at least eighteen different parishes in Surrcy.f Dying in 1432, he bequeathed this
manor to Nicholas, his second son (his eldest having previously deceased), Sheriff of Sui'rey
in 19 Henry YI. He married Margaret, daughter of Sir Eoger Ficncs, Knt., by whom he
had two sous, Nicholas and James, of whom the former succeeded him in 1458. He died
in 1466, leaving an only son, a minor, after whose decease without issue this property
descended to Eichard Carew, only son of the above James, by his wife Eleanor, a daughter of
Thomas, Lord Hoo and Hastings, and of his second wife Eleanor, daughter of Leonard, Lord
Welles, of which family her issue were also coheirs. Eichard Carew was made a Knight
Banneret at the battle of Blackheath in 1497, in 1501 he was Sheriff of Surrey, and was
Ijieutenant of Calais in the reigns of Henry YII. and Henry YIII. He officiated as sewer
* By his will, dated at Beddington in 1387, lie directed that liis body should be interred between the grave of his
brother John and the south door of the Ohurch of St. Mary at Beddington ; and he devised considerable legacies to that
church, and for other religious purposes. He gave to his daughter, Margaret Turbevyle, 100 marks ; to his daughter
Lucie, Prioress of Roospan-e [Rusper, in Sussex], ^10 ; to Joan Huscarle, a nun, 40s. ; leaving the residue of his property
between Ms son Nicholas de Cairu and Nicholas de Mockyng.
+ Vide. Rot. Glaus. 9 Henry V. m. 6.
BEDDINGTON.
«77
at the enthronisation of Ai-clibishop Warhaiu iu 150^-5, aud, dyiug in 1-j20, was interred
in the ehurcli at Beddington.
Sii- Nicholas Carew, his sou and heir, succeeded his father in the lieutenancy of Calais.
He became a great favourite with Heni-y VIII., who appointed him one of the Gentlemen of
his Privy Chamber, and he was for several years the almost constant companion of the King,
*' and a partaker with him in all justs, toui'naments, masques, and other diversions of the
same kind, with which that reign abounded," and which are so minutely described in Ilall's
Chi-onicle.* In 1523 he was made Master of the Horse, and afterwards a Knight of the
Garter. Notwithstanding his great obligations to his master, he appears to have engaged
in a conspiracy with the Marquis of Exeter ; Henry Pole, Lord Montacute ; Sir Edward
Neville, and other zealous Catholics, to overthrow his government, and seat Cardinal Polo
upon the throne. The plot was discovered through the agency of Sir Geoffrey Pole, Lord
Montacute's brother, and all the conspirators wore executed. Sir Nicholas himself was
beheaded on Tower Hill, iu March, 1539, when, according to Holinshcd, he made " a godly
confession, both of his fault and superstitious faith." He was buried in St. Botolph's,
Aldersgate, where there is a small monument inscribed with his name.
The forfeited estates of Sir Nicholas were seized by the Crown, aud the custody of
the manor-house at Beddington was intrusted to Sir Michael Stanhope.f The manor
was subsequently granted for life to Walter Gorges, who died in 1553, aud in the same
year the King regranted this and other estates, the property of the Carews, to Thomas,
Lord D'Arcy, of Chiche, then Lord Chamberlain, in exchange for manors and lands in
Essex, which he had previously bestowed upon that nobleman.
Sii' Francis Carew, only son of Sir Nicholas by Elizabeth his wife, daughter of Sir
Thomas Brian, Knt., was in the service of Queen Mary, by whose grant he obtained the
restitution of his ancestral inheritance, aud who had taken a reconveyance from Lord
D'Arcy of all the Carew estates given to him by her brother. For greater security, how-
ever. Sir Francis himself took a new conveyance, by purchase from that nobleman, under
* The following anecdote relating to Sir Nicholas Carew is given by Fuller : — " Tradition in this family reportetli,
how King Henry, then at howli, gave this Knight opprobrious Language, betwixt jeit and earnest, to which tlie
other returned an Answer more true than discretionary, as more consulting therein his own Animosity than Allegiance.
The King, who in this kind would r/ive and not tah, being no Good Fellow in tart Repartees, wa-s so highly offended
thereat, that Sii' Xicholas fell from the top of his Favour to the bottom of his Displeasure, and was bruised to Death
thereby. This was the true cause of his Execution, though in our Chronicles all is scored on his complying in a Plot
with Henry, marc^uess of Exeter, and Henry, Lord Montague." — Worthies, vol. ii. p. 379, edit. 1811.
t Among the Harleian MSS. is a voliune containing an inventory of the wardrobe of Henry VIII., including
" The Guarderobe at the Mannour of Bedington in the Countie of Surrey, iu the Charge of Sir Micliael Stanhopp, Knight,
Keaper of the same House." In this inventory is mentiofied a press, made with drawers, full of Evidences, Court Rolls,
and other writings, " as well concerning Sir Nicholas Carew, his landes, as other men's landes." {Vidi Harleian MSS.
No. 1419, art. 30, fol. 373.)
278 HISTORY OF SURREY.
a license granted in 2 and 3 of Philip and Mary. After being thus secaired in the full
possession of his estate, this gentleman erected at Beddington a magnificent mansion, in
which he was twice visited by Queen Elizabeth, in 1599 and 1600. He died unmarried
in 1611, having bequeathed this and other estates to Sir Nicholas Throckmorton, the
youngest son of his sister Anne, whom he had adopted, and who assumed the name and
arms of Carew. He died in 1644; and his son and successor, Sir Francis Carew, K.B.,
died in 1649. From that time the inheritance descended regularly to Sir Mcholas Carew,
created a Baronet in 1714, and elected a knight of the shire for Surrey in 1722. He
died in 1726-7, and was succeeded by his grandson. Sir Nicholas Hacket Carew, Bart.,
whose decease occurred in 1762. By his will he devised all his estates to Mr. William
Pellatt, an attorney, in trust, to permit his only surviving daughter Catheriae to hold
the manor of Beddington for life, and to pay her the net amount of the rents, if she
continued single ; but on her death or marriage the estate was to devolve on the eldest
and other sons of his cousin. Dr. John Fountain, Dean of York, in tail male ; remainder
to the eldest son of his kinsman, William Farrer, in tail male ; remainder to the eldest
son of Eichard Gee, Esq., of Orpington, in Kent, descended from Philippa Carew, an
aunt of Sir Nicholas Carew, Bart., mentioned above. Miss Catherine Carew died
unmarried in 1769, and the only son of the Dean of York having died in 1780, before
he had attained the age of twenty-five, at which he was to inherit, the estate came into
the possession of Eichard Gee, Esq., who in 1780 obtained an Act of Parliament, autho-
rising him to take the name and arms of the family of Carew.*
The Manor of Wallington. — This manor, called Waleton in the Doomsday Book,
gave name to the hundred, and is thus described : — " The King holds Waleton in demesne.
It was assessed at 11 hides in the time of King Edward, as at present. The arable land
Consists of 11 carucates, one of which is in demesne ; and there are fifteen villains, and
fourteen bordars, with 10 carucates. There are three bondmen ; and two mills, at 30s. ; and
8 acres of meadow. The wood belonging to it is in Kent. Eichard de Tonbridge holds
of this manor 1 virgate, with the wood, whence he removed a countryman, who dwelt
there. Now it yields to the Sheriff 10s. a year. The whole manor, in the time of King
Edward, was valued at £15 ; now at £10."
It is stated in the Testa de Nevill that Hemy II. granted a part of the manor of
Waletun, in the hundred of Waletun (or Wallington), to Maurice de Creon, who gave it,
with his daughter, to Guy de la Yal ; and he, according to Manning, having joined the
t Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 527. See also tlie pedigree of Carew in the same volume. Further particulars of
the descent will be annexed to the account of the manor-house.
BEDDINGTON. 279
barons in the war against King John,* his estate was seized by the officers of the Crown,
and John Fitz-Lucy, who subsequently obtained a grant of it, incurred a forfeitui-o by
remaining in Normandy : the King then gave it to Eustace de Curtenay, or Courtenay.
Passing successively through the families of Salinis, de la Lynde, Lodelawe, Dymock,
Harrington, Carew, Spencer, Bowyer, and Spencer, this estate was afterwards conveyed to
William Bridges, Esq., Surveyor General of the Ordnance, and he, dying in 1714, devised
it to his sister, Elizabeth Bridges, spinster, who resided at Walliagton House. She died in
1745, having by her will, dated in 1743, bequeathed this property to her great-nephew.
Bridges Baldwin, Esq. (afterwards knighted), with remainders, on failure of his issue
male, to two other great-nephews, ia consequence of which the estate descended to
William Bridges, Esq., who, dying in 1805, devised it to Brook Bridges, Esq. His son
John afterwards possessed the property, which subsequently passed to Nathaniel Bridges,
Esq., the present owner.
The Manob of Bandon. — But few notices of this manor are found ia ancient records.
Lysons says, " It probably took its name from Margery de Bandon, or some one of that
name, whose property it was; her land is mentioned ia an old rental of Eeginald
Forester's." It is more probable, however, that the family to which this lady belonged
Avas named from the manor, over which seignorial jurisdiction was claimed by Edmund,
Earl of Cornwall, in 1279. In 3 Edward II. Simon Stowe appears to have had property
here, for in that year he obtained a writ ad quod Damnum for the brethi'en of the
Hospital of St. Thomas, Southwark, relative to the transfer of a messuage and lands in
Bedyngton, Bandon, and other places in Siu'rey. Early in the reign of Edward III.
Eegiaald le Forester held a messuage and 80 acres of land in Bandon and Beddington of
Thomas Corbet, as of his manor of Beddington, by the service of 83. 4d. a year, and the
grant was confirmed by letters-patent dated 13 Edward III. The manor of Bandon,
together with Beddiagton, at length came into the possession of the Carew family, and
Nicholas Carru, in 1448, obtained a grant of the leet of Bandon and Beddington, at
an annual rent of 6s. 8d. Beddiagton House, with other estates of the Carews, in
recent years passed to the Bridges famUy; and the Eev. Alexander H. Bridges, son
* Banks (" Dormant and Extinct Baronage," vol. i. p. 66), probably on the authority of Dugilale, says, " Tliis Uiiy,
who married the daughter of Maurice de Creon, died in the first of John; and was succeeded by GUbert de la Val,
said to have been in arms against King John, in the 17th of his reign." Matt. Paris (" Hist. Angl." p. 252) mentions
Gilbert de la Val as one of the twenty-five barons appointed to secure the performance of the stipulations contained
in the Great Charter and the Forest Charter extorted from King John, and ho appears to have been a prominent
member of the confederacy against that tyrannical prince. Gilbert de la Val therefore, who may have been the
brother or nephew of Guy, must have been the baron whose estate at Waletun was seized by King John, and thus
permanently alienated.
28o HISTORY OF SURREY.
of the late Sir Henry Bridges, is tlie present lord of the manor and patron of the
advowson.*
The living of Beddington is a rectory in the deanery of Ewell, valued in the Taxa-
tion of Pope Nicholas at 40 marks, from which was deducted 100s. payable to the Prior
of Bermondsey, to whom the advowson had been given by Sibylla de Wateville and
Ingram de Pountcnays, the owners of the manor, in 1159 ; and in 1530 Sir Nicholas
Carew presented to the rectory, on demise from the abbot and convent. On the subse-
quent dissolution of the monastery and the attainder of Carew, the patronage became
vested in the Crown ; but Sir Francis Carew, having procured a reversal of his father's
attainder and recovered the family estates, had this advowson also, which remained
annexed to the manor, and is now held by the Rev. Alexander H. Bridges, as above
mentioned. In the King's books the value of the living is stated at £13 16s. 8d., paying
for synodals 9s. 8|d.t In 1841 the tithes were commuted for a rent-charge of £1,212
per annum. The Eegisters commence with 1538. Among the entries is the following: —
* Of the other manors, or rejiuted manors, in this parish but little information can be obtained. That called
Forester's may have been so designated from Reginald le Forester, who held lands in Bandon and Beddington in
3 Edward IIL, in wliich year he probably died. Reginald le Forester, who had a license for an oratory in his manor-
house in tlie parish of Beddington in 1347, may have been the son of this gentleman. The manor appears, at length, to
have been united with that of Bandon ; for Nicholas Carew, Esq., who died in 1467, is stated, in the Inquisitiones post
Mortem for 6 Edward IV., to have been seized, inter alia, of the manor of Bandon, aUas Forsters.
The estate here belonging to the brethren of the Hospital of St. Thomas, Sonthwark, already noticed in the account
of Bandon, was styled the manor of the Freres, Friars, or Bretliren. In the reign of Richard II. it was granted to
Nicholas Carreu in exchange for some lands at Lambeth, as appears from the Patent Rolls of the second year of that king.
The prior and convent of Merton held lands and tenements in Beddington, Bandon, and WaUington in the reign of
Edward III. It appeal's, from the valuation of ecclesiastical property made in 32 Henry VIII., that there was a fee-farm
rent of 6s. 8d. from lands at Bedyngton, £2, from Cross lands in Wallyngton, and 2s. from a mill there, belonging to the
priory at its dissolution. (Dugdale, " Monast." vol. ^^. p. 248.)
t In 1454 a commission was issued to inquire into the value of this rectory, and in the certificate retiimed to the
bishop (Waynflete) was a specific statement both of its revenues and its reprises, or deductions. We gather fi-om it that
at the time wheat was 5s. a quarter, barley 3s. a quarter, and oats 20d. a quarter ; that the value of a lamb was 6d., and
a fleece of wool 2id. ; the tithe of the mill was 16s. 8d. ; that of the rabbits and doves of Nicholas Carew 13s. 4d. ; and
of the rabbits of Synclo (probably Saintlow) 2s. : the offerings amounted to 18s. The total of the revenues was
£21 2s. 3d. ; and that of reprises — which included the charges for collecting, carrying, and threshing the corn, for
collecting the wool and lambs, lor bread, wine, frankincense, and was (3s. 4d.), for annual repairs (£1), and the Abbot
of Bermondsey's pension (.£5) — amounted to £11 15s. 4id. (Lysons, "Environs," vol. i. pp. 62, 63; from Regist.
Winton.)
A distinct portion of the revenues of this living, forming a sinecure benefice, was detached from it at an early periodi
the patronage of wliich was annexed to the manor of Beddington-Huscarle. Its emoluments in 1473, estimated at 40s.
net, principally arose from the tithes of 200 acres of land, called Huscarles Feod (fee), on the north side of the church,
and from a house and 20 acres of land on the south side. The Rev. Charles Carew, who held the superior rectory of
Beddington from 1530 to 1540, was also the portionist, or holder, of this free benefice. After his attainder and execution
as an accomplice in the plot for which his relation (Sir Nicholas Carew) suffered, the King, in 1540, presented this
sinecure to Richard Benese, who is the last portionist whose name occurs in the Registers of the diocese. He had been
a canon of Merton Priory, and was the author of a treatise on the Mensuration of Land, of which an early edition was
printed in St. Thomas's Hospital, Sonthwark. In the King's books this portion is valued at £8 12s. Id. : it accounted
for 2 marks to Bermondsey Abbey.
BEDDINGTON. agi
"William Stuart, commonly called Old Scott, aged one hundred and ten years and two
months, was buried Jan. 31, 1704-5."
Rectors of Beddington in and since 1800 : —
1.- — John Bromfield Ferrers, M.A. Instituted in 1783 ; died iu 1811.
2. — James Hamilton, M.A. Instituted in 1841.
2,.— William Harsh, D.D. Instituted in 18G0; died in 18G4.
4. — Alexander Henry Bridges, M.A. Instituted in 1864.
Among the rectors of Beddington w^as John Leng, D.D., who in 1723 was made
Bishop of Norwich, and held this living, in commcndam, until his death in 1727. This
prelate preached the sermons at Boyle's Lecture in Bow Church in 1719, afterwards
published : he likewise published other sermons, and was the editor of two Comedies
of Aristophanes, and of the Comedies of Terence. He was buried at St. Margaret's,
Westminster.
Beddington Church is mentioned in the Doomsday Book, but no part of the present
structure can be referred to the remote era of that record. It would seem, indeed, from
the style of the architectm-e, to have been erected during the reign of Eichard II. — a
surmise receiving corroboration from a bequest made in 1390 by Nicholas de Carrcu,
the first lord of Beddington of that name, of £20 " to the building of the church." This
edifice is dedicated to St. Mary, and consists of nave and aisles, a chancel, and at the
west end a massive tower containing ten bells, together with a large south porch, and a
mortuary chapel attached to the chancel, and opening into it, on the south side, formerly
belonging to the Carew family, but recently sold to II. Trittou, Esq. The tower, which
is supported by strong buttresses at the angles, was partly rebuilt on the old plan about
1829, at an expense of £350 ; and iu 1839 a rate (amounting to £160) was granted b}-
the parish for repaii-ing the roof and interior of the church. In 1852 the church was
again restored, and a north aisle built, at a cost of £3,000. In 1869 an organ chamber
and vestry were added, the chancel entirely restored, and numerous other improvements
made, at a further expenditure of about £10,000.*
* The following particulars respecting the charities in tliis parish are inscribed in this church :—
" Donations and Bequests to the parish of Beddington and Wallington.
" December 5th, 1825, Mrs. Ann Paston Gee bequeathed by her Will £1,000, to be invested in the funds, the interest
thereof to be given to the poor on Christmas eve, in every year." The interest (X30) is expended in clothing, &c., whii^h is
distributed among the poor by the rector and churchwardens.
1625. " Henry Smith, l>y will, bequeathed £i per year to the poor of Beddington." Expunded on the aged and
infirm, and in apprenticing poor children.
" February 6th, 1830, John Bristow, Esq., XlOO interest."
" Several allotments of land were awarded by the Commissioners under tlie Beddington Enclosure Act [52 Geo. IU.
VOL. III. O O
282 HISTORY OF SURREY.
This church contains a pulpit of Elizabethan workmansship, a fine old oak chancel
screen, some curious old wooden stalls having turn-up seats, or miseries, ornamented
with foliage, shields, a female head in a reticulated head-dress, and other carvings.* The
entrance doorway to the tower is formed by a higb-pointed arch, over which is a very
large and handsome window, comprising three tiers of trefoil-headed lights progressively
rising to the apex. There is an ancient font of a square form, but witb a circular basin :
it is supported by a central and four smaller columns standing on a Ioav plinth. In the
north aisle is a painting in thirteen panels representing the Day of Judgment. The
gallant Admiral Sir John Leake, in 1710, whilst residing in this parish, gave to the
churcb an altar-piece, with the Decalogue, the Creed, &c. On the north side, opposite the
pulpit, is the handsome monument of Nicholas Carew, Esq. (second son of Sir Nicholas
Carew, Bart.), who died in 1721-22, and his wife Ann, daughter of Sir Stephen Lennard,
Bart., of Wickham Court, in Kent : she died in 1722, and was buried here in the same
vault with her husband. It is of white marble, and consists of a large inscribed tablet
in Latin, surrounded by pendent drapery, and crowned by a belmet and shield of arms,
viz. — Carew, impaling or, on a fess gu. three fleui's-de-lis of the field, for Lennard.
Against the south wall of the cbancel is afiixed a large upright monument of an architec-
tural kind, having Corinthian pilasters at the sides, and a cornice above, upon which, between
two flaming urns, are a shield of arms, crest, and mantling. The iascription is in Latin, and
records the piety and virtues of Elizabeth, wife of Wm. Chapman, gent. : she died in 1718.
In the pavement, immediately in front of the altar steps, is a slab of black marble,
9 feet in length and 4 feet in breadth, inlaid with full-length brasses of Nicholas
Carreu (the second of that name who settled at Beddington), and Isabella his first wife,
who died many years before him. They are standing under a rich Gothic canopy, as
shown in the opposite woodcut. The inscription is as follows : —
/ Ju nrrtcta ct mtscvicDrIii;t Jet Iiic iactnt corpovrt (^icholai Carreu,
Gravestone I ..._,. ^ ,..•,, ^ i ■,
' -rmtgcri, xt ^ lu flitoniam Iitttas biHe, JsabcUc tt.vorts sttf, tt
Nicholas Camieu < l^homc fllii cortt'icm ; xjiti tiitiicm ^ichfllas stncv tt jilciuia Jicr'
'^^^ j in )jacc fluicbit xptarto bie mcnsis ^Stptfiiris, JVimo Jomini
/tt tccc .-cxxii".
c. 208], for the use of the poor. They also awarded a piece of land, called Church ilead, to Beddington Church, 1 acre
and 29 perches."
" Mrs. Ann Paston Gee gave a piece of land called Cats Brains, containing 3 acres and 5 perches, in exchange for
cottages and land on Chats Hill, also belonging to Beddington Chirrch."
" William Bridges, Esq., gave .£200, 3 per cent Consolidated Bank Annuities, to the poor of the hamlet of Walling-
ton, on account of the enclosure of a piece of land in the same hamlet."
* It seems probable that the above stalls were originally provided for the " four fit chaplains " which Sir Nichohxs
de Carreu, in his will (before noticed) dated in 1387, and proved at Croydon in Sept., 1390, directs " should be found,
one of them for ever, and the others for five years, to pray for his soul, and all Christian souls, in the church of Bedding-
ton."— Lambeth Register, Courtney, f. 147, b.
BEDDINGTON.
283
At the corners were the symbols of the evangelists, and above and below the canopy
these arms, viz. — Or, three lions passant, sab. for Carcw ; and Carcw imp. gu. two lions
passant, arj. for Dclamar.
In the Carew Chapel, partly separated from the chancel by a wooden screen, and
having a distinct entrance, are several interesting monuments, the oldest being that of the
founder, Sir Kichard Carew, Knight Banneret, Go-
vernor of Calais, and his wife Malyn, or Magdalen,
who, according to the Carew pedigree in Lyson^^'s
" Environs," was a daughter of Sir Eobert Oxen
bridge, Knt. It consists of an altar tomb oi
freestone, surmounted by a kind of framcwoik,
ornamented with vine-branches, armorial bearin^>
&c., and enclosing a recessed elliptical arch cii
riched with Gothic panelling. On the tomb ■u ei c
formerly small brasses of a knight in armour and
his lady, now gone, and along the verge an
inscription in black letter, of which the latter pait
only remains, viz. — whichc S'' Richaid
decessyd the xxili day of May ^ Anno dm 31° F° 1 x ;
6,- the said dame Malyn dyed y' day of An°
Over this monument is an upright memorial of
much elegance for Sir Nicholas Carew, Bart., who
died in 1742, his relict Catherine, and their
daughter of the same name ; also of Eichard Geo,
of Orpington in Kent, Esq., who took the name
of Carew on succeeding to the Beddington property
in 1780, and died in 1816. It consists of a framed
tablet, surmounted by a beautifully wrought
canopy, ornamented with -sane-branches, &c., in open-work sculpture, above A\hi(h is
the emblem of the Holy Spirit. Over the inscription arc the arms, supporters, and crest
of the Carew family in relief. The whole is of piu-e white marble on a dove-coloured
background, and was executed by Westmacott.
Near the above is a small but very neat mural monument, inscribed by
Sir Erancis Carew, K.B., to Mary (daughter of Sir George More, of Loscley),
284 HISTORY OF SURREY.
his "Deare Mother, the Lady Carew, late wife of Sir Nicholas Carew, of Bed-
dington,"
" Wiose virtuous life doth memory deserve,
Who taught her children Heaven's Great God to serve."
She died in 1633.
Farther eastward, and guarded by iron rails, is the costly monnment of Sir Francis
Carew, Knt., which is wrought of different-colom-ed marbles, and must be regarded as a
line example of the sepulckral style of James I.'s reign. It consists of a long altar tomb,
upon which, between two Corinthian columns of black marble, supporting an enriched
entablature, lies a full-length statue of the deceased, sculptured in alabaster, upon a mat.
lie is represented in complete armour, but with a skull-cap instead of the helmet ; his
hands are as in prayer. At the back are two framed tablets, each of which is bordered by
six small shields of arms, viz. : — ■
On the left : 1st, Quarterly, saJ. and arg. for Hao ; impaling or, a Hon rampant, douhle-queued, sab. — Welles.
2nd, or, three lions passant, sab. — Carew ; imp. gii,. a lion rampant arg. witliin a border az. bezanty — Oxenlridge.
3rd, arg. three snakes, nowed, prop, for Odron (an Irish barony) ; imp. gu. a dexter arm, prop, habited with a
maunch, erm. holding a fleur-de-lis, or — Mohun. 4th, Carcxu, imp. Hoo. 5th, Carew, imp. arg. three piles,
wavy, issuing out of the chief, and nearly meeting in base, vert, within a border, az. bezanty — Bryan. 6th, Carew,
imp. an. on a cross arg. five martlets, sab. — More, of Loseley.*
In front of the tomb, on a low plinth, and kneeling upon cushions, are small figures of
a knight in armour, and his lady in a ruff and long cloak, together with five sons and two
daughters, the latter wearing ruffs and farthingales. These, as we learn from an aflixed
tablet, represent Sii" Nicholas Thi'ockmorton, alias Carew, who erected this monument
" to the memorie of his deare and well deserving unckle ; " Mary, his wife, eldest daughter
* The inscriptions are as follows, the one being in English, the other, which is sufficiently laudatory, in Latin : —
Here resteth Sir Feancis Carew, Knight, sonne and heire of Sir Nicholas Carew, Knight of the honor-
able Order of the Garter, Maister of the Horse, and Privye Councellour to King Henry the VIII. The said
Sir Francis living unmarried, adopted Sir Nicholas Throckmorton, sonne of Anne Throckmorton, his sister, to be
heire of his estate, and to beare his surname ; and having lived Ixxxj yeares, he in assured hope to rise in Christ
ended this transitory Hfe the xvj day of May mdcxi.
Virtutis splendore, et equestri clarua honore,
Peanoiscus Caeew conditur hoc tumulo :
Principibus fidus, percharus amicus amicis,
Pauperibus largus, munificusq' bonis.
Hospitio excepit Reges, proceresq' frequenter,
Hospitibus cunctis semper aperta domus.
Innocui mores niveo candore pohti,
Luigua dolo caruit, mens sine fraude fuit.
Laudatam vitam laudand^ morte peregit,
Solus in extremis anchora Christus erat.
Avunculo optimfe merito Nepos moastissimus
Hoc monumentum honoris et memoriae ergo posuit.
BEDDIXGTUX.
28s
of Sii- George More, of Loseley, Kut. ; and their issue, namely, " Francis, Nicholas, George,
Edmund, Oliphe, Elizabeth, and IMarie." At each end, over the entablature, is an obelislc,
and in the middle, crowning the ^yhole, a large shield, with mantling and helmet, of the
Carew arms and quartcrings, viz. :—
1st, Carav ; iwA, Odron ; 3ril, Mohun ; 4tli, Hoo (all as before described). 5th, gu. a fess clieckie, sab. and
arg. betw. six cross crosslets of the first. Cth, ax. three sinister hands, couped at the WTists, arg. — Malmains.
7th, emi. on a chief, a~. three cross pattt'es, arg. — JFichingham. 8th, as. a fret, arg. 9th, Welks. 10th, gu. a
fess dancette, betw. six cross crosslets, or. 11th, barry of six, crm. and gu. over all three crescents, arg. 12th,
Bryan.
The annexed woodcut, executed from an etching that belonged to the late Arthur
Tyton, Esq., of Wimbledon, reja'csents a knight of the Carew fainilj",
as exhibited by a small brass figure formerly on his tomb in Bedding-
ton Church. lie is in plate armour, with a sword and dagger, and
the family arms are embroidered upon his surcoat. The brass, which
was twenty inches in length, was stolen many years ago.
Below the east window is a neat monumental sarcophagus inscribed
to the memory of Admiral Sir Benjamin Hallowell Carew, G.C.B.,
one of the officers under Nelson at the battle of the Nile, who died in
1834. It is decorated with a flag (the staff broken), a naval sword, a
branch of laurel, and the word "Nile." Another memorial, on the
north side of the window, records the decease of Wm. Gee, Esq. (of
Beddingtou), in 1815; also that of his relict, Ann Paston Gee, in
1828. The inscriptive tablets are surmounted by the arms and crest
of the deceased, the whole being enclosed in a border of vine-branches,
rising from the plinth, which is supported by blank shields.*
Affixed to the wall under the north gallery is a wooden frame
enclosing a brass tablet thus inscribed : —
MOKS SVPER ViEIDES MoNTES.
Thos. Greenhill Borne & Bredd in y" famoves University of Oxoii Bachelor of Artes & sometyines
Student in Magd. Coll. Steward to y' noble S' Nicholas Carew of Beddington : who deceasd Sept. 17th day
An" 1633. Aged 33 years.
Will. Greenhill, Master of Artes, his brother, and Mary his sister, to his memory erected this :
Vnder thy feete interrd is here
A native bom in Oxfordsheere.
* The arms of Gee, as certified at the College of Anns in May, 1779, are— Quarterly, 1st and 4th, gu. a sword in
bend, ppr., hilt and pommel or ; 2nd and 3rd, quarterly, arg. and gu., on the 2nd and 3rd quarters, a fret, or; over all, on
a bend sab., three escallops of the first. Crest — A gauntlet, erect, ppr., grasping a sword of the last, hilt and pommel or.
On the monument these arms are impaled with the follovs-ing, namely :— On a chev., betw. three roses, three trefoils
slipped.
HISTORY OF SURREY.
First, life and learning Oxford gave
Surrey to him his death and grave.
Hee once a Hill was fresh and Qreene
Now witlier'd is not to bee seene.
Earth in Earth shove! 'd is shut
A Hill into a Hole is put.
Dan. xii. 3. But darksome Earth by Power Divine
Mar. xiii. 43. Bright at last as a Sun may shine.
W. G.
At the top are a skull and cross-bones, on each side a skeleton, and at the bottom a
hour-glass and this sentence : —
SicvT HoEA Sic Vita.
There are many tombs and other sepulchral memorials in the churchyard, the principal of
which are in memory of different individuals of the Bridges family, of Wallington House.
Against the chancel wall, on the south side, is an inscribed tablet commemorative of the
Eev. J. B. Ferrers, M.A., a former rector, who died in 1841. The walls and ceilings of
this church are elaborately decorated in colour, and the edifice is lighted by thirteen
richly stained windows, one of which was inserted in 1874 as a memorial to the late
Dr. Samuel Wilberforce, Bishop of Winchester. The aisles are partly shrouded with
ivy, and some noble elms and a wide-spreading yew-tree overshadow the graves in this
enclosure.
Beddington Park, the long-continued residence of the ancient family of the Carews,
is now the locale of the Female Orphan Asylum. It immediately adjoins the church, and
is distant from Croydon about one and a half miles.* It has already been stated that
Eichard Gee, Esq., on whom this property devolved in 1780, took the name and arms of
Carew under the authority of an Act of Parliament. That gentleman, dying luimarried
* Aubrey, after describing Beddington as a small village " noted for little but the family and name of Caret",
proceeds thus : —
" The seat of this family stands low, in a moorish soil, but much assisted by art : it is a handsome pile of building,
having before it neat gardens, not yet finished, with several canals, and an orchard ; but what more particularly deserves our
notice, is the fine Orangerie, where are several Orange-trees (transplanted from the warmer breezes of Italian air, into our
more inclement climate), planted in the open ground, where they have throve to Admiration for above a whole Century ;
but are preserved during the AVinter Season, under a movable [shed, or] Covert. They were brought from Italy by
Sir Francis Carew, knt. (who built the old mansion-house), and it was the first attempt of the kind that we hear of." —
Surrey, vol. ii. pp. 159, 160.
In the " Biographia Britannica," article Ralegh, is a somewhat different account of these orange-trees : the editors
relate, " from a tradition preserved in the family, that ' they were raised by Sir Francis Carew from the seeds of the first
oranges imported into England by Sir Walter Ralegh, who had married his niece, the daughter of Sir Nicholas Throck-
morton.' It has been stated that most of the trees were thirteen feet high in 1690, and that at least 10,000 oranges were
gathered from them in that year. They continued to flourish for about a century and a half, but were destroyed by the
hard frost in the winter of 1739-40." — Lysons, Environs, vol. i. p. 57.
.ri
BEDDIXGTOX.
287
in 1816, demised his entire property, both real and personal, to Mrs. Aim Paston Gee,
widow of his brother, "William Gee, who had been resident at Bcddington, and had died
there in 1815. Mrs. Gee died in 1828 ; and, having no issne, she bequeathed all lier estates
in Kent and Surrey to her first cousin, Admiral Sir Eenjamiu Ilallowell, G.C.B. (born in
Canada), who, pursuant to her will, assumed the name and arms of C'arew by royal license,
dated iu the same year.* On the Admiral's decease in 1834, he was succeeded by his eldest
son, Capt. Charles Hallowell, who also took the name and arms of Carew, by royal license,
in 1835.
About 1865 Bcddington Park, as such, was broken up, and it has sitice been converted
to different purposes. The mansion itself was purchased by the committee of the Female
Orphan AsTLUir, an institution originally established in "Westminster Bridge Bead,
Lambeth, 1758. t It is intended to hold 200 orphans, and the average number of children
always in the institution is 160. The endowed charities produce £76 annually, so that
the institution is mainly dependent upon voluntary contributions for support. The
building underwent considerable alteration to suit the requirements of the Orphan Asylum,
and the inmates were removed hither in 1866.
Of the original mansion erected by Sir Francis Carew, and in which he had twice the
honour of receiving the visits of Queen Elizabeth % (as alluded to in the panegyrical verses
* After receiving the congratulations of a friend on liis accession to tlie Carew property, the gallant Admiral
pensively remarked, "Half as much twenty years ago Iiad indeed been a blessing ; but I am now old and crank." He
was then in. his sixty-eighth year. Neither he nor Jlrs. C!ee had any connection in blood with the ancient family of
Carew.
+ See page 87 anU.
X Eowland Wliyte, writing to Sii' Roliert Sydney from Nonsuch " this Saturday Noone, 18 August 1599," says,
"Her Majestie hath been at Benington, Thursday and Friday, and returned Yesternight hither." In another letter to
the same person, dated Saturday, the 16th of August, IGOO, he says, " Her Majestie is very well, I thancke God ; for,
since Wednesday, she hath bene at Bedington ; vpon Thursday, she dined at Croiden with my Lord of Canterbury, and
this day returns to Nonsuch again." {Vide " Sydney Papers," vol. ii. pp. 118, 210.)
Sir Hugh Piatt, in his " Garden of Eden" (p. 165), relates an anecdote which shows the flattering attention which
Sir Francis bestowed on his royal visitor. " Here I will conclude," he says, " with a conceat of that delicate knight
Sir Francis Carew, who for the better accomplishment of his royal entertainment of our late Queen Elizabeth of happy
memory, at his house at Bedington, led her Majesty to a Cherry-tree, whose fruit he had of purpose kept back from
ripening, at the least one month after all cherries had taken their farewell of England. This secret he performed by so
raising a tent or cover of canvas over the whole tree, and wetting the same now and then with a scoop or horn, as the
heat of the weather required; and so by withholding the sun-beams from reflecting upon the berries, they grew both
great, and were very long before they had gotten their perfect cheiTy colour : and when he was assured of her Majesty's
coming, he removed the tent, and a few sunny days brought them to their full maturity." At that time, as appears from
Aubrey, there was a summer-house in the grounds, at the top of which was painted the " Spanish Invasion." Tlie
Queen's Oak and her favourite walk arc still pointed out.
The following particulars relating to the " Guarderobe," or Wardrobe, which belonged to Sir Nicholas Carew, of
Beddington, and was seized with his other property by Henry VIII., are extracted from the manuscript account in the
Harleian Library, already referred to in page 277 :—
"Hangings of Tapstry, olde and soore worne. First, Gone peace of Tapstry of a Quene sittinge vnder a clothe of
estate, having a grene gowen of redde Itraunches, and ij boies at her fecte, conteynyng in length iiij yards di. and in
288 HISTORY OF SURREY.
on his monument), not any part remains except the great hall. The mansion, as it existed
clown to the time it was purchased by the Female Orphan Asylum, was built about 1709,
at which time Beddington was in the possession of Sir Nicholas Carew, created a Baronet by
Queen Anne. It was a brick edifice, with stone dressings, and consisted of a centre and two
deep wings, forming three sides of a square, the intermediate area being enclosed from the
grounds by iron railings. The north wing was not habitable, the whole interior having been
destroyed by fire soon after it was finished, and never restored. The great hall, which still
forms the central part of the building, is an admirable specimen of the domestic architecture
of the Elizabethan age. The roof is constructed of oak in the manner of our college halls ;
the principal ribs spring from large carved brackets, gilt, and form an equilateral pointed
arch, which, being underset with smaller ribs, assumes the trefoil character : over each arch
is a strong beam, forming a brace with the rafters. The flooring is composed of lozenge-
shaped slabs of black and white marble, and the walls are wainscoted with oak in panels :
those above the windows are decorated with paintings of military and naval trophies, executed
in imitation of bronze. Over the door on the south side is a large boldly carved and finely
emblazoned shield of the Carew arms (in twelve quarterings), supporters, and crest, together
with an escutcheon of pretence on the nombril point, viz. — Arg. three fleurs-de-lis, in bend,
debthQ iij yards iij quarters, having a lioole in tLone side. Item, Oone pece of Tapstry w' a white Lyon in hit, and a
King sittjTig in his Ma"« and ij quenes kneling before hym in grene gownes, th'one full of red harth, [liarts?] cout. in
lengthe v yards iij qrt. and in depthe iij yards iij qrters." Thirty pieces of tapestry are described, displaying little
variety in the subjects. One piece exhibited a fountain -ivith Cupids at the top, and divers musicians playing and singing,
having a scutcheon under the fountain, with a herpe [harp] in it : in another was represented a man in harness, pulling a
woman to him, and divers other harnessed men taking women by violence ; but in most of the tapestries kings and othei-
personages appeared sitting in state. " Hanging of Verdours."— These, from the description, appear to have been hunting
pieces. There were four sets of these hangings, the first of which is thus described : — " Five old pieces of Verdours, with
beasts and fountains, — quarter lined, and all burnt, moth-eaten, and perished, with holes in the bottom. There were
three other sets of Hangings, of a different kind. Carpetts ; nine in number, among them four old coarse Carpets of
Verdours, with a small scutcheon in them. Cheyres. Firste, Oone olde Chaier of wood covered with grene velvet, lacking
the backe.— It'm, Oone other old Chaier of wood, covered w' p'rple velvet pirled, the seate blewe velvet." "Cusshions"
of cloth of gold and silver, velvet, and satin. Four sets are described, some of them pieced and sore worn. " BeddestecUs
w' thapparell." — Two are noticed at some length. They were ornamented with black velvet, and cloth of gold and silver.
Beddes and Pillowes are also mentioned. " Spavars." — Three of Sey and cloth, and one of black satin. " Counterpointes."
—Seven are described, with the subjects represented on them. " Fustyans." — With these are included One low stool, for
a woman, very mean, covered with purple velvet " fremyd " with Venice gold, old and very mean ; and one piece of
arras. " Sondry Percelles." — The items under this head require no notice except the last, relating to the Library, which
is somewhat curious, viz. : — " It'm, A great booke of parchement, vnritten and lymned w' gold of graver's worke, De Con-
fessione Amantis, w"' xviij other bookes written and prynted of dyvers histories, viz. le p'imer volume de Launcelot, le
p'imer volume de Enguerram de Monstrellet, le ij"*' volume de Enguerram de Monstrellet, le premier volume de Frosart,
le ij''« volume de Frosart, le thirde volume de Frosart, le ij''" volume de Orose, le tres volumes des Cronesques de Fraunce ;
ensuyment les Faictz I'Ordeny des Christyans, le graunt vioge de Herusalem." From the repetition of the entries it
seems that there must have been two or more copies of the Histories of Froissart and Orosius.
It appears, from some Council books preserved in the library of the Duke of Buckingham at Stowe, that Henry VIII.
lield a Council in the old manor-house at Beddington in 1541, about two years after he became possessed of the estate by
the attainder of Sir Nicholas Carew.
a<^ tf^^^ G>^?^2^:^Wi^^*'^^=*^
j-jONDON.VlRCi:.". &c?
BEDDINGTON. 289
between two cotises, gu. ; and the motto, " Nil conscire slbi." * On the opposite wall,
above the fii-eplace, is a carved trophy in very bold relief, which exhibits almost every
kind of military implement, whether of ancient or modern warforc, known in Elizabeth's
reign. The old fireplace has been filled in with coving, &c., and andirons (3 feet G
inches in height) substituted ; the ends are of brass, and each ornamented with a dcmi-
savage, supporting an eagle. On the great entrance door is a very curious lock, of the
same age as the hall ; it is wrought of iron, and covered with elaborate Gothic tracery
richly gilt : the keyhole is concealed by a shield of the royal arms, which moves in a
groove, and slides down on touching a knob in the form of a monk's head.
The lower story of the south wing contained the dining and drawing rooms and other
large apartments, together with a long gallery that extended through its entire length.
Besides the old hall, much of the garden wall has also been preserved.
The grounds retained many characteristics of the old school of gardening, among
which, towards the east, was a waterfall supplied by the river Wandle, which intersects
the park in its course to the Thames. The park, which was between thi-ee and four miles
in cii-cumference, is well wooded, and at one time abounded with deer. A portion of the
park was purchased and converted into a sewage ground for Croydon, and in carrying out
the work the remains of a Eoman villa were discovered.
In this parish are some almshouses for the benefit of poor persons, called St. Mart's
nospiTAi, which were built as a memorial to the Eev. James Hamilton, Eector, who died
in 1860, Additions have since been made to these almshouses by the Eev. Alexander
II. Bridges in memory of liis parents, and also by Mrs. Hamilton (the widow of the Eev.
James Hamilton) and her brother-in-law, Dr. Culhane.
The principal landowners in this parish are the Eev. Alexander H. Bridges, Bcddiugtou
House ; Nathaniel Bridges, Esq., Wallington House ; and Andrew A. CoUyer-Bristow, Esq.,
Beddington Place. The Woodcote (or Woodcott) Farm, comprising about 800 acres, is
occupied by Mr. James Arnot.
In the hamlet of "Wallington, which is about half a mile from the scattered village of
Beddington, and fully twice as extensive in buildings and population, was an ancient chapel
standing in a field near the public road, and latterly used as a stable and cart-house. It
was built of stone and flints : on each side of the east window was a niche of rich Gothic
architecture, and at the south-east corner was another niche for holy water. From the
* The supporters are — Antelopes, </«. armed and ungnled arg., originally or. The crest is — A demi-lion' rampant,
between six half-pikes, all issuant from the round-top of a mainmast, or. Aubrey remarks that this noble family, having
had the honour of the peerage in it, still retains tlie same form of bearing witli sujtpoiiers, an honour not annexed to tlie
baronetship. ("Surrey," vol. ii. p. IGS.)
VOL. III. P P
290 HISTORY OF SURREY.
total silence of the records in the Eegistry of Winchester concerning this structure, Mr.
Lysons regarded it as a mere private chapel, but others have surmised that it was a
chapel-of-ease, originally bnilt for the convenience of the inhabitants of Wallington.
About 1791 it was pulled down, by its proprietor, in opposition to the expressed desire of
the parishioners.* In the grounds of "Wallington Manor-house is a vaulted crypt of
fifteenth-centiuy workmanship : it is approached by a cii'cular newel staircase from the
garden.
In consequence of the increase of population in the hamlet of Wallington through the
sale of ground in the manor of Bandon, a new ecclesiastical district was assigned to it in
1867. The Church of the Holy Trinity, built by Mr. Nathaniel Bridges, the patron and
lord of the manor, is of early English architecture : it has an octagonal apse, nave, aisles,
and spire, and will accommodate 540 worshippers.
There are two parochial schools at Wallington for boys and girls respectively : the
district also possesses two railway stations.
BEBniNGTON AND Wallington Field Gardens. — Thc working classes in this parish
have been greatly benefited by the establishment here, in 1835, of a "Labourer's Friend
Society," for the adoption of the allotment and cottage-garden system; that is, by letting
small quantities of land to the day-labourer at a fair rental, calculated upon the average
value of the farming land in the neighbourhood. This most praiseworthy institution was
suggested by Nicholas Carlisle, Esq., K.H. (Secretary to the Society of Antiquaries), when
a resident here ; and that gentleman, with John Bridges, Esq. (lord of the manor of
Wallington), the Eev. Thos. King, and William Scott Preston, Esq., formed the first com-
mittee of management ; and a piece of land adjacent to the Hollow Eoad, connected with
the open common fields, was appropriated by Mr. Bridges for commencing the experiment.
The success attending it induced the Eev. James Hamilton, the then rector, to apportion
some of the glebe land for the same purpose', thus extending the whole to 30 acres.
It has already been mentioned [vide p. 274) that Camden and several other anti-
quaries agree in fixing the station which Ptolemy calls Neomayus, and Antoninus
Noviomagiis, at Woodcote, where, says Camden, "are evident traces of a small town, and
several walls formed of flints ; and the neighbours talk much of its populousness, and
wealth, and many nobles : " its distance from London, also, he considers to strengthen
this conjecture. l)r. Gale, in his Commentary on Antoninus, expresses a similar opinion,
and conceives that the established tradition of this being formerly a place of much
consequence is sufficiently corroborated by the several vestiges of antiquity at difi'erent
* Lysons, " Environs," vol. i. p. 66, and vol. vi. (Supplement), p. 7.
CARSHALTON. 291
times discovered here, " such as foundations of houses, tracts of streets, hewn stones, tiles,
<and above all, the number of wells here met with, and some of an extraordinary depth."
Horslev, likewise (in his "Britannia Eomana"), after referring to the tlifferent opinions on
the subject, conciu-s with the above authorities in considering Woodcoto as the site of the
Noviomagus of the "Itinerary."*
CARSHALTON.
This parish, on the north side of the Downs, adjoins Bcddiugton on the east, Sutton
on the west, Mitcham on the north, and Woodmansterne on the south. It contains
about 2,900 acres, and is of the ratable value of £7,720.
Carshalton (the Aultone, or Old Town, of the Doomsday survey) is evidently a
place of considerable antiquity. According to the probable conjectures of Salmon,
Manning, and others, it acquired "the addition of Cross, Cross-Atdton, from some cross
in the neighbourhood, such being frequently to be met with at the intersection of great
roads, the rather as there are lands in this parish, partly in Beddington and Wallington,
which were known by the name of Cross-lands." It appears that about the reign of
King John Cross-Alton had become EresaUon : the orthography has since varied in the
records to Crossalton, Kersalton, and Carsaltou; but it has for nearly two centuries
been uniformly written Carshalton. The Eoman road called the Stane Street passes
through tliis parish. The manor is thus described in the Doomsday sm-vey : —
"Goisfrid [or Geoffrey] de Manneville holds Aultone. Five free men held it of
King Edward ; and they could remove at pleasure. One of these men held 2 hides ;
and four of them 6 hides each. There were then five manors : now there is but one.
It was then assessed at 27 hides : now at 3^ hides. The arable land amounts to 10
rarucates. One carucate is in demesne; and there are nine vUlains, and nine cottars,
with 5 carucates. There is a Church : and seven bondmen ; and 12 acres of meadow.
The men of the County, and of the Hundred, say they never saw writ or officer of the
King, to give Goisfi-id seisin of this manor. In the time of King Edward it Avas valued
at £20 ; when Goisfrid took possession, at 100s. ; and now at £10.
* lu that part of tke secoiiJ Iter of Antoninus wKicli lies between London and tlie terminus (says the above author)
" we have three stations -which are mentioned in no other Iter ; the first of which is Noviomarjus, at ten niiles distance
from Londinium, according to the Itinerary. This must be the same with Neomagtis in Ptolemy, which he places nearly
south from London, a little inclining; to the west, and is the only or principal place he mentions among the Regni.
Ptolemy's position and the Itinerary distance would direct to the neighbourhood of Croydon or IFoodcote, where Camden
long ago, and Dr. Gale more recently, have jjlaced JVbi'ioHMw/its ; where both saw some remains of an old tnwn, but I
think no proper Roman antiquities. — Upon the whole, I confess myself most inclined to continue Xuviumajiij' id H'ood-
cote, — not far from Croydon." — BritaniMi, pp. 423, 424, 373.
r i> 2
2^2 HISTORY OF SURREY.
" Of these hides, "Wesman holds 6 of Goisfrid the son of Earl Eustace, to whom
Goisfrid de Manneville gave this land, with his daughter (in marriage). There is 1
carucate in the demesne ; and three villains, and one cottar, with 3 carucates : and one
mill at 35s. ; and three bondmen; and 10 acres of meadow. The wood yields two swine
for pannage. The arable land amounts to 2 carucates. In the time of King Edward
it was valued at £4; afterwards at 40s.; now at 110s. Of those hides a certain King's
Smith hath half a hide, which he received Avith his wife, in the time of King Edward ;
but he never did service for it."
The manor of Carshalton, or Kersalton, was held in the reign of Stephen by Geoffrey
de Magnaville, a grandson of the holder at the time of the Doomsday survey. He
was in high favour with the King, but being induced to desert his service for that of
the Empress Maud, his estates were confiscated, and this manor was given to Pharamus
do Bolonia, nephew of the queen-consort of Stephen. Sibylla, daughter and sole heiress
of Pharamus, transferred this estate by marriage to Ingelram de Eielnes, .or Fiennes,
though the superiority was vested in the Bohuns, Earls of Hereford, who held the
honour of Magnaville, or Mandeville. William de Fielnes (descended from Ingelram
and Sibylla) in 1270, being about to go to the Holy Land, appears to have mortgaged
Kersalton to his attorney, William de Ambesas ; and his son, John de Eielnes, transferred
his interest in the manor to William Medburn. The manorial estate, biu'dened with
the rent of 20 marks, which William de Eielnes had reserved when he conveyed it to
Ambesas, came into the possession of Nicholas de Carreu, who had a grant of free-
warren for his lands here in 48 Edward III. ; and in 14 Richard II. he died seized of
the manor, which was returned as of no value on account of the reserved rent charged
on it.* It probably passed from the Carews in consequence of the marriage of John
St. John with the daughter of Sir Eichard Carew. John St. John, the son of that lady,
sold a moiety of the manor to Richard Burton, Esq., in 1580, and is supposed to have
sold the other moiety to W. Cole. After several transfers the latter moiety was
conveyed, in 1655, to Thomas Twisden and others as trustees for Sir Edmund Hoskius,
Serjeant-at-Law, whose representatives, in 1696, sold it to Sir William Scawen ; and he,
about 1712, purchased the share which had belonged to the Burtons. Sii- William died
withoiat issue in 1722, and left the whole estate to his nephew, Thomas Scawen, Esq., whose
son and heir, James Scawen, M.P. for Surrey, conveyed it to trustees for sale in 1781;
and it was bought by George Taylor, Esq., who died in 1834, and was succeeded by his
nephew, the late John Taylor, Esq., whose trustees are the present lords of the manor.
* Escheats, 14 Rich. II.
CARSHALTOX. 293
Cakshalton Park, -with the mansion called Mascalls, belonged to Eiehard Burton,
Esq., and being sold by one of his familj^ to Sir Edmnnd Iloskins, it passed again by sah;
to Sir William Scawen.* Ilis nephew and succossor, Thomas Scawen, projected the
building of a magnificent house here ; and Leoni, an architect of some note in the earlier
part of the last century, was employed in making designs for the mansion, which
he published in his edition of the "Architecture of Leo Baptista Alberti " about 17-12 ;
but Mr. Scawen did not carry his plan into execution. f The present house — near the
High Street— is built of Portland stone, thrown into relief by trees that form a sombre
background, and with a beautiful clear stream of water in front. The park is well
wooded, particularly with walnut-trees. At the eastern side of the park are a pair
of handsome iron gates, intended to have been the entrance to the jn'oposed mansion,
formerly bronzed. These were erected about 172G by Thomas Scawen, Esq., as his
initials appear on them, and the gate is surmounted by a crest of the Scawen fiunily.
On the north pillar is a leaden figure of the goddess Diana, and on the south that of
Actason. Carshalton Park, with the manorial estate, is now in the occupation of Jeremiah
Coleman, Esq. The wall surrounding it, which is about two miles in extent, commences
not far from the church, on the right hand of the road to Beddingtou.
Stone Court. — This appears to have been the estate of Bartholomew, Lord Burghershe,
who, in 18 Edward III., obtained a grant of the right of free-warren for the whole of
his demesne lands in Kersalton. It afterwards belonged to the Gaynsfords of Crowhurst,
and from them was called Gaynsford's Place. Nicholas Gajmsford, Sheriff of Surrey in
38 Hemy VI., was a partisan of the house of York, and was appointed an Esquire of
the Body to Edward IV. on his accession to the throne ; but having incurred suspicion
of treason against the new King, a writ was issued for the sciziu'e of his manor of
Burghershe, alias Kcrsalton, and also that of Shalford Clitford, which Edward had
bestowed on him. He recovered possession of the former estate, though not of the
latter ; and he repeatedly held the office of Sheriff of Surrey in the reigns of Edward IV.
and Eiehard III. After the accession of Henry VII. he acquired the favour of that
* Sir William Scawen was an eminent merchant in London, descendeJ, as the inscription on his monument in the
church states, of a Comish family. He acquired a large fortune, and was elected one of the knights of the shire for this
county in the fourth, sixth, and seventh of Queen Anne. He had risked nearly the whole of his property in the cause
of William III. After having retu'ed many years from his mercantile pursuits, " lie one day, to the astonishment of
every one, appeared again upon 'Change, when a hrother asked him if there was any thing he could do for him ? ' You
maj-,' said Sir WiUiam, ' get me some bills upon Holland.' Sir William di<l not despond. He went to tlie siege tit
Namur. The King hearing of it, sent to liim, and said, ' Sir William, what do you do here 1 ' Sir William replied,
' Please your Majesty, it matters not what becomes of me, if your Majesty should not return safe to England.' The King
returned safe, to the immense gain of Sir William." — Manning, Surrey, vol. ii. p. TjIO.
t Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. pp. 507 — 511.
294 HISTORY OF SURREY.
i;)i-ince, who made him one of the Esquires of his Body ; and he was one of the principal
attendants on the Queen in her procession from the Tower to Westminster previously
to her coronation. Henry Gaynsford, who held this estate in 38 Henry VIII., alienated
about 300 acres to Sir Eoger Copley : he also demised the site of the manor of Stone
Court to Walter Lambard for ninety-nine years, reserving a rent of 12d. Lambard
erected a handsome house here, which became the property of Sir Henry Burton, and
afterwards of Joseph Cator, who in 1729 sold it to Thomas Scawen, Esq. ; and the trustees
of his son, James Scawen, transferred it by sale to William Andrews, Esq., in 1781.* The
house, which had retained the name of Gaynsford's Place, was pulled down about 1800.
The manor of Kymerslet, which at one time belonged to the Burtons, and an estate
named Ckosse-lands, held by the same family in the time of Hemy VIII., cannot be traced
in modern times, t
Carshalton, celebrated by Fuller for " trout and walnuts," obtained from Henry III.
the grant of a weekly market on Tuesday, and an annual fair for three days, on St.
Mary's Day, the vigil, and day following. % The latter has been discontinued since
1851, and the former for many years, though the precise date has not been ascertained.
The Wandle, still abounding with trout, passes through the parish, and, increased by
other streams and several springs which rise there, forms a large pool of remarkably clear
water nearly in the centre of the village. On the banks of the stream are numerous
mills and manufacturing works ; for in its course of ten miles to Wandsworth, where it
falls into the Thames, is carried on a more extensive commerce than perhaps is known
in the same compass on any other stream of the kingdom. Stevenson, in his "Agriculture
of Surrey," says that in 1813 there were nearly forty mills of different kinds.§
Nearly close to the western boundary of the chui'chyard is a neatly kept well of the
purest water, which tradition has connected with the memory of Anne Boleyn. Accord-
ing to report, the spring arose suddenly fi'om a hole into which her horse had accidentally
struck its foot whilst pacing here.
The principal mansion in this parish is Carshalton House, occupying the site of a resi-
dence built by the celebrated Dr. Eadcliffe. || Its present owner and occupier is the Eev.
* Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. pp. 511, 512. t Id. p. 512. J Cart. 43 Henry III. ni. 4.
§ See " History and Antiquities of Carshalton," by G. B. Brightling.
II Dr. Radcliife, remembered for liis eccentricities, and as the founder of the Radclifi'e Library at Oxford, for ^^•luch
he bequeathed £40,000, was one of the physicians of William III., and of the Princess (afterwards Queen) Anne. He
died in 1714, at the age of sixty-four. His house at Carshalton was sold for £3,500 to Sir John Fellowes, Sub-Governor
of the South Sea Company, by whom it was rebuilt, at which time, says Aubrey's editor (" Siu'rey," vol. ii. p. 174), in
levelling the ground to make an avenue, many bones, supposed to be human, were found. The house afterwards belonged
to the Lord Chancellor Hardwicke ; then to the Hon. Thomas Walpole, who sold it to John Hodson Durand, Esq., of whom
it was purchased by David Mitchell, E?q. At the time when Lysons wrote it was the property of Theodore Broadhead, Esq.
CARSHALTON. a95
Alfred Barratt, D.D. It is a good specimen of the old English brick mansion, and has been
lately mnch improved by the addition of a large dining-hall, dormitories, and other build-
ings. The railway company took a small portion of land on the outskirts of the grounds,
but fortunately left the property otherwise uninjured.
Some years since Mr. Gunter (formerly of the well-known firm of Gunter & Co.)
bought the property owned by the late Mr. "Wallace, and built a very commodious house ;
and since the sale of the estate of Mr. Samuel Gurney a few years back much laud has
been converted to building purposes. Mr. J. P. Gassiot bought the Culvers, ]\Ir. Gurney's
residence.
The rectory, given by Pharamus de Bolonia to the prior and convent of Merton, was
vested in the Crown in 1549. Sir William Goring held it in 1554, and John Fromond in
1568. It passed from the heirs of the latter to the family of Bynde, or Byne. Henry
Byno, of Carshalton, who died in 1697, gave a moiety of the tithes to the vicar of the parish ;
and his son Henry, by will dated 1723, settled the remainder in the same manner, subject
to the life interest of his wife.* The patronage is now vested in Albemarle Cutor, Esq.
Rectors of Carshalton in and since 1800 : —
1. — William Rose, M.A. Instituted in 1777.
2.— Charles Cator. Instituted in 1829.
.S. — William Tlardij Vernon, 'Q.k.. Instituted in 18.35.
4. — William Albemarle B. Cator, M.A. Instituted in 1845.
The church, which is in the deanery of Ewell and diocese of lloc-liestcr, is situated on
a rising ground near the centre of the town, and is dedicated to All Saints. In the Yalor
of 20 Edward I. the rectory is rated at 21 marks, the vicarage at G marks and 40d. It is
discharged in the King's books, but pays for procurations 7s. Gid., and for sj'uodals
2s. Id. In its present state the cliurch consists of nave, with a chancel, two aisles, and a
low embattled tower, containing eight bells, between the chancel and the nave. What is
now the chancel, however, was originally the entire church, having the tower at the west
end. The chancel is composed of rubble-stones and flint. The aisles are separated from the
nave by ancient and dissimilar columns of rude workmanship, supporting three pointed
arches on each side : theu* capitals are enriched with sculptui'ed foliage. The upper parts
of both aisles ■rt'ere rebuilt with brick, and raised for the purpose of erecting galleries, about
the beginning of the last century, chiefly at the expense of Sir John Eellowes and Sir
William Scawen : the upper part of the tower is of freestone. In 1811 the church imder-
* Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. pp. SKi, 514.
2q6 history of surrey.
•\Tent a thorough repair, and several important alterations and improvements have since
been effected.*
In this church are some fine brasses, ancient monuments, and inscriptions, accounts of
v/hich are preserved in Manning and Bray : t several othera that were in existence in
Aubrey's time are now lost. Against the wall, on the north side of the altar, in what is
now the vestry, is an altar tomb of Purbcek marble, over which, affixed against the wall,
is a large slab of the same material inlaid with the brass figures of a man and a woman at
prayer. The man is in armour, on one knee, with his gauntlet and sword at his feet ;
behind him are his four sons, the eldest in armour as an esquii'e, the second habited as a
priest, and the third and fourth as merchants. Before the woman is a desk with an open
book upon it ; behind are her four daughters. Beneath is the following inscription : —
^r.ij) for the cSojiIhs of ^licholas ©.wncsforb, sometime ffisqijcr for tlif bobg of the most notic ])rtnas
(Sitoarb thf Sill, anb ^)tnrD tht <)EE. aixli ^larflvirct liis luwfc, also ont of the (Scntiltoommtn of the most noble
y'ncesscs (Sluabcth anb ©luabcth, toijfes of the forsaii moet noble p'nces ksuges. 'uThe tohich .f^kholas betesib
the bas of in the jere of onrc glorb (Sob a" meeec , anb the forsaib (fttargaret biseesjib
the bag of in the rtrc of o«re gorb ©ob a thotosanb eccc . ©n tuhoos soluUes J'ha habe inerts.
3^men.t
Traces of the gilding and painted filUngs-up of the brass figures on the slab are still
visible. The lady's head-dress, remarkable for its size, corresponds with other specimens
of the same date ; her robe, which has close sleeves, is red, edged with gold. Over the
heads of the figui*es are some armorial bearings in brass. §
On the south wall of the vestry, or chancel, is a small mui-al monument of black
marble, equally curious for the facts it records, and for the style of the inscription, which is
as follows : —
M. S.
Under the middle stone y' guards y" ashes of a certayne fryer, sometime Vicar of this place, is raked up y'
duste of William Quelche, B.D. who miuistred in y* same since the Eeformac'on. His lott ■was, through
God's mercy, to Inirne incense here about 30 y''- and ended his course Aprill the 10, an° D'ni 1654, heing aged
64 vears. 1 Reg. 13, 31.
* Lysons has expressed an opinion that the church was huilt in the reign of Richard II. The data on which he
founds this opinion are, that previously to the alterations during the eighteenth century there were, in the windows of
the north aisle, the arms of Burley and Sarnesfield, with the Order of the Garter, and those of John Beaufort, Earl of
Somerset, without that distinction ; that Simon, Richard, and John Burley were elected Knights of the Garter in the
reign of Richard II. ; and that the Earl of Somerset was afterwards of that order, but not elected till the reign of
Henry IV. The architecture of the chancel, he says, confirms the above conjecture, but the colimms whicli separate the
nave from the aisles appear to be of a more remote age ; and further, he states that in the Registry at Winchester there is
a commission, dated in 1324, for reconciling the church of Carshalton, which had been polluted bj' the death of Thomas
Gruton. (" Environs," vol. i. p. 126.) Now, Richard II. did not begin to reign rmtil 1378. The chancel, however, ia
apparently of a much earlier period. It is probable, however, that additions were made in the reign of Richard II.
t " Surrey," vol. iL p. 514 et seq.
t It is remarkable that there are other monuments in this church in which blanks have been left for the dates, as
though they had been prepared in the lifetime of those whom they commemorate, and the dates never supplied.
§ For a coloured engraving of these brasses see Lysons's " Environs," vol. i. p. 128.
CARSHALTOX. 297
Quos bifrons templo divisit cultus in uno
Paciflous tumulus jam facit esse pares ;
Felix ilia dies, quce cultus semiiia solvit,
Quoe placida fidei pra;lia condit humo.
Hie sumus ambo pares, donee eineremq ; t'ulomq ;
Discutiat reddens Christus utriq ; suum.
Those whom a two fac't service here made twaine,
At length a friendly grave makes one again.
Happy that day that hides o' sinful jarrs.
That shutts up al o' shame in earthen ban-s :
Here let us sleepe as one, till C ye juste
Shall sever both o' service, faith, and duste.
Near the above-mentioned tablet is a monument of a costly and imposing character to
the memory of Henry Herringraan, citizen and stationer of London, and Alice his wife,
who "were married in 1G50, and lived 58 years and upwards very happily and com-
fortably together, and dyed within six weeks and two days of one another." *
On the opposite side of the vestry is a mural monument of the Taylors, lords of the
manor; also one to the memory of the Eev. William Eose, who died in 1829, having
been "fifty-two years rector of Carshalton, and of Beckenham, in Kent."
At the east end of the north aisle is a massive monument of veined marble to the
memory of Sir John Fellowes, Bart., who died in 1724. Corresponding with it, in the south
aisle, is a handsome monument, supported by Corintliian columns and pilasters, to the
memory of Sir William Scawen, M.P., who died in 1722, and who is represented by a statue
of white marble, in a loose robe and tiowing peruke, recliniug on his left arm. In the south
aisle also is a monument of black marble, supported by columns of the Ionic order, to the
memory of Sir Edmund Hoskins, Knt., Serjeant-at-Law, who died in 16G4.
On a stone in the north aisle, commemorating Johan, wife of Henry Burton, Esq., who
died in 1624, is a brass figure of a woman praying, with a scroll issuing from her mouth
inscribed, " 0 blessed Lady of pittie, p'y for me, y* my soule savyd may be."
On the right and left of the entrance to the chancel from the nave are two small but
beautifully executed mural monuments in white marble. The former represents a youtliful
female, attendant on the death-bed of her brother, Michael She^jley, Esq., who died in 1837.
The monument on the left, to the memory of Susanna Shcpley (one of the sisters), who
died in 1840, represents a female resting on a cenotaph surmounted by an urn. The font
is small and of stone.
Lysons has preserved the following inscription from the tomb or gravestone of Thomas
* The value of this monument has been estimated by a sculptor of the i)resent day at l,ooo guineas. Tlie artist's
name was Kidwell.
298 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Humphreys, a barber (noted equally for bis corpulence and for bis activity as a dancer), iu
tbe cburcbyard : —
Tom Humpkreys lies here, by death beguil'd
Who never did harm to man, woman, or child ;
And since without foe, no man was e'er known,
Poor Tom was nobody's foe but his own ;
Lay [? Ue] light on him earth, for none would than he
(Though heavy his bulk) trip it lighter on thee.
Died Sept. 4, 1742, aged 44 years.
The Eegisters of tbis parisb, commencing in 1538, are comprised in two books, tbe
former of wbicb appears to have been well kept, excepting tbat, owing to tbe troubles of
tbe times, it contains no entries from 1644 to 1651. Tbe latter begins in 1703, and from
1708 it bas been kept with great accuracy. Tbe dates of birtbs as well as of baptisms arc
entered — a system wbicb, wbenever practicable, ougbt to be enforced. In tbe old
Eegister is an entry, under tbe date of Marcb 3rd, 1569-70, referring to tbe celebration
of tbe funeral bere of Sir Nicbolas Tbrockmorton, Knt., wbo bad an occasional residence at
Carsbalton ; but be was actually buried in London, in tbe Cburcb of St. Catberine Cree,
Avbere a monument of alabaster was erected to bis memory. He was celebrated botb as
a soldier and statesman, and acquired so mucb of tbe favour of Queen Elizabetb tbat tbe
Earl of Leicester regarded bim as a formidable rival, and is suspected to bave hastened
bis deatb by poison, "as be died suddenly at tbe earl's bouse, near Temple Bar, after
eating a bearty supper." *
Tbere are one or two Dissenting places of worship in Carsbalton, and also a public
hall, used for lectures and other purposes.
In 1854 the Eoyal Hospital for Incueables was established here at Leicester House.
The building was occupied by tbe patients till 1857, when, being found too small, tbis
important charity was removed to Melrose Hall, West HUl, Putney. A railway station
on the London, Brighton, and South Coast line was opened here in 1868.
When excavations were made for the railway through the hill on the road to Sutton, a
number of relics of ancient weapons were found. Unfortunately the workmen at once
disposed of them to a stranger.
* Lysons, " Environs," vol. i. p. 133. His death occurred in 1569-'70. He left a large family by Anne his wife, the
daughter of Sii- Nicholas Carew, of Beddington. Another entryin the Carsbalton Eegister records the marriage, iu 1576,
of " The right honorable Lorde Thomas Howard, Viscount of Bindon, and Mistres Mabell Burton." Frances, an offspring
of this union, was the beautiful but vain Duchess of Richmond, of whom Wilson, iu his " Life of James I.," has spoken so
largely. She was thrice married, her first match being with Henry Prannel, the son of a vintner ; her second, with the
Earl of Hertford ; and the last, with the Duke of Eichmond. Being again left a widow, she aspired to the hand of the
King himself, but the British Solomon in this instance was too discreet to gratify her ambition.
CHEAM.
This parish is bounded by Maklon on the north, by Sutton on the cast, by Baustead on
the south, and by Cuddington on the west. It contains about 1,900 acres of land, the
northern portion of which is argillaceous, and the southern calcareous. The commons,
waste lands, and common fields were enclosed under an Act of Parliament passed in 180C.*
Mr. Manning says, "In 1018 Cheijham was given by King Athelstan to Christchurch,
Canterbury;" and for this statement he refers to Somner's " Canterbury," page 217, and to
a Chartulary of Canterbury in the Bodleian Library.-f Ilere, however, is a mistake which
requires some explanation. King Athelstan died in 910, and therefore could not have
been the donor of this manor. Some extracts from a Chi'onicle of Gervase of Canterbury,
in manuscript in the Cottonian Library, are published in Dugdale's " Monasticon " (new edit,
vol. i. p. 95), where it is stated that in 1018 " Mcstcham and Cheijham, two vills in the
region of Sui'rey, were given by Ethelstan to the monastery of Christchurch." No title
distinguishes the donor, but there can hardly be a doubt but that he was Ethelstan, or
Athelstan, a younger son of Ethelred II., and brother of Edmund Ironside, whose name
and designation ("Ethelstan Filius Eegis") appear among those of the witnesses to the
charter granted by Ethelred himself to the monastery of Burton-on-Treut in 1001. (See
Stow, Chron. p. 115.) Prince Athelstan also bestowed on the monks of Canterbury
Holingbxu-ne, in Kent, towards the support of their table.:}:
In the Doomsday Book this manor is thus described among the lands of the Archbishop
of Canterbury, who held "C*eiham" for the provision of the monks — "do victu mona-
chorum : " — " In the time of King Edward it was assessed at 20 hides : now at 4 hides.
There are 14 carucatcs of arable land. Two carucates are in demesne, and twenty-five
villains, and twelve cottars, with 15 carucates. There is a Church ; and there are five
bondmen, and 1 acre of meadow. The wood yields twenty-five swine. In the time of
King Edward, and subsequently, it was valued at £8 : now at ,£14." §
* A notice occurs iii a comt roll of the manor of East Cheam of a place called Lynce's Corner, where stood a cross
marking the concurrence of the thi'ee hundreds of Kingston, Copthome, and Wallinglon, and of the parishes of C'hcam,
Cuddington, and Maldon.
+ " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 4G8.
X According to the Great Chartvilary of the see of Canterbury (referred to above) the gi'ant of the manor of Cheam
to the monks exempted them from the payment of all taxes, except for the repairing of bridges and fortresses, and defraying
the expense of the King's expeditions. Like an epigram, the grant carries a sting in its tail, concluding with this bene-
volent expression levelled against those who might presume to iufi-inge its terms — " Excommunicatus cum diabolo societur."
§ Manning and Bray record some remarkable particulars, but without c^uoting their authority, connected with the
early liistory of Cheam, or Kaliam, as here called : —
'• A certain Vavassor who held (Vavassoriam) land in Kaham of Ealph de Kaham was disseised for some crime
which he had committed. He had a female cousin, by whom William Postell, then parson of the church of Kaham, had
Q Q 2
300 HISTORY OF SURREY.
According to Somner the Archbishops of Canterbury held the estates of the church
in common with the monks of Christchurch, till Lanfrauk, who i^resided over the see
from 1070 to 1089, built a palace for himself, and made a division of the revenues, in
consequence of which Cheam was separated into two portions, called East Cheam and
West Cheam, which constituted distinct manors, now united, in the possession of the Eev.
Edward William Northey. Lanfrank kept East Cheam, with the advowson of the living,
for himself and his successors, and assigned West Cheam to the monks.* In the Taxation
of Pope Nicholas the manor of East Cheam is valued at £10, and the other manor at
£6 13s. 4d.
Manor of East Cheam. — This manor continued to form a part of the estates of the
archiepiscopal prelates until the reign of Hemy VIII., who, wishing to annex it to the
honour of Hampton Court, obtained it from Archbishop Cranmer in exchange for Chislet
Park, in Kent, and the transfer was accordingly made by a deed dated 1539. In the
beginning of the reign of Philip and Mary a grant of the estate was made to Anthony
four daughters ; of wliom three were married, one remained single. Postell took this land to farm of Ralph de Kaham,
hut a Chaplain, cousin of the Vavassor, sued Postell for the land, and proceeded so far that battle was gaged in Ealph's
Court ; Postell, however, by means of a present to Ralph, got him to avow that he had given the land to Postell in framk
almoigne with the Church of Kaham, and so that suit was ended.
" Afterwards Robert de Cirsurandus, cousin of the Chaplain and the Vavassor, brought a fresh suit in the King's
Court for the advowson of the Church, which -was settled between Robert and the Monks of Merton.
" After this, Ralph de GremvUle being a married man, but his wife languishing in sickness, took to him the
unmarried daughter of Postell ; by her had two sons, Robert and Ralph, born in his wife's lifetime. He and the woman
were summoned to the Chapter of Merton, when she was excommunicated, and died under that sentence. Robert and
Ralph being adults in the time of Henry II., brought their suit to recover the inlieritance as weU of the said Gremville,
as of their grandfather Postell, whereupon a jury was summoned, who awarded to them the inheritance of their father,
and would have awarded to them the Church of Kaham, but it being objected that they were bastards, the King
ordered that though the jury was summoned, if bastardy could be proved, they should lose as well their father's inheritance
as the advowson. They hearing this would not prosecute their suit for the advowson, but confined themselves to the
claim of their father's land, which they contended was given them by Aeed."Surrey, vol. ii. p. 468.
* Referring to the manor of West Cheam, the subjoined extract will be found to contain some curious information
as to the " customary services " of tenants under the feudal system : —
" Amongst the Records in the Treasury of the Dean and Chapter of Canterbury is the following account of the
services to be done by their customary tenants here, of whom there were seven : each was to plough half an acre or
give 5d. : every one having a horse was to harrow oats one day : they were to perform in the whole 602 days work, or to
pay, if the Lord pleased, 25s. Id., the price of two works being Id., except two weeks at Christmas, one at Easter, and one
at Pentecost, in which weeks no works were to be required ; each was to work two days in a week during the five weeks
of harvest, if it lasted so long.
" The Cotters (Cotmanni, the number not mentioned), were to do 688 works (except in the weeks above mentioned),
or to give, if the Lord pleased, 19s. 2d., the price of three works being Id. In harvest they were to do 150 works ; the
mowing one acre of wheat or oats was to be considered as two works, and one acre of barley, pease, or tares, as four
works.— From certain seven acres of land was to be paid yearly three quarters and a half of barley, which is called
CherchshoL—The customary Tenants were to thrash nine bushels for eight of every kind of grain. The Bailiff was to be
allowed his rent and works which were due from him, because he received no wages, except by favour of the Lord.— The
Customary Tenants were also to have one bushel of rye or barley when they did their services, herrings to the value of
12d., and cheese 3d.; the Harrowers to have one bushel of barley, and in herrings to the value of 6d.— The land of the
Smith was discharged because it was part of the demesne, value 23. 6d."— Register 2. cccxxxiii or 243 (the pages having
two sets of numbers).— Manning, Sumij, voL ii. p. 469.
(SMEAiM. 301
Browne, Yiscount Montague, wlio in 1583 sold it to Henry Fitz-Aluu, Earl of Aruudel,
from whom it passed to John, Lord Lumley, who married Jane, daughter and coheiress of
Lord Arundel.
Manor of West Cheam. — The prior and convent of Chi-istchiu-ch retained possession
of this estate until the dissolution of monasteries, when it became vested in the Crown,
and Henry VIII. granted it on lease, at a reserved rent of £5, to Ealph Goldsmith.
Queen Elizabeth in 1585 granted the reversion of the premises formerly belonging to
Christchurch Priory, and afterwards annexed to the honour of Hampton Court, together
with reserved rent of £5 and the manor of West Cheara, with all the rents, services, aud
emoluments belonging to it, with the exception of the lead and bells, and the advowsons of
churches, of the yearly value of £9 16s. 2id., to John, Lord Lumley, to hold of the
honour of Hampton Court in free socage, and not in cajjite, by fealty only for all services.
This nobleman, having acquired the manor of East Cheam, as above stated, by marriage,
became owner of both these estates. He died in 1009, and, though twice married, had no
surviving issue. His estates consequently devolved on his nephew, Henry Lloyd, son of
the learned antiquarj^, Humphrey Lloyd, by his lordship's sister Barbara.
The manors of East and West Cheam descended to the Kev. Eobert Lumley Lloyd, D.D.,
who claimed the barony of Lumlcj', forfeited by the attainder of George Lumlc}', the
father of his maternal relation, aud, as he alleged, restored by the grant to that personage
in 1547; but the committee of the House of Lords decided against the claim, on the
ground that when John, Lord Lumley, was restored in blood (after the attainder of his
father) by Edward VI., he was not restored to the ancient barony held in fee, but made a
baron by a new creation, which dignity was limited to the heii's of his body, and coidd not,
therefore, descend to the posterity of his sister.
Dr. Lloyd died in 1729, having bequeathed his estate at Cheam to John, Duke of
Bedford, to whom he had been indebted for preferment in the Church. In 1755 the Duke
sold the manors of East and West Cheam to Edward Nor they, Esq., whose son and heir
(William) died in 1808, and was succeeded by his cousin, William Northey, Esq., M.P.
for Newport, in Cornwall. That gentleman was succeeded about 182G by his nephew,
Edward Eichard Northey, Esq., who died in 1878, being succeeded by his son, the present
owner.
Lower Cheait. — The mansion, or manor-house, of East or Lower Cheam, was held on
lease from the Crown, by the family of Fromond, before the manor was granted to Viscount
Montague, The Fromonds appear to have obtained a property in the estate in fee-simple,
though at what period is uncertain. Their estate, consisting of a capittd messuage in
302 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Cheam, with 9 acres of land called Lampland and Lightland, tenements in "West Cheam,
and other places in Surrey and Kent, passed by the marriage of an heiress to the family of
Walmesley. Bartholomew Walmesley, who died seized of the estate ia 1701, leaying a
son who died young, the inheritance devolved on Catherine "Walmesley, his daughter,
who in 1712, when only fifteen, married Eobert, Lord Petre, who died the following
year, leaving his widow pregnant. In 1733 she remarried Charles Stoiu'ton, who
succeeded to the barony of Stourton, but died without issue. His lady survived till 1785,
when this estate came into the possession of her grandson, Eobert Edward, Lord Petre,
by whom the house was sold to Mr. Bullock, and of him it was purchased by John
Antrobus, Esq., who rebuilt it. Lord Petre sold most of the land to John Hilbert, Esq.,
to whom it belonged in 1808. This gentleman was succeeded in the East Cheam estate by
his nephew, John Hilbert TatCj Esq., of Epsom, in 1819.
The principal seat in the parish is that of Hugh Lindsay Antrobus, Esq., second son
of the late Sir Edmund "William Antrobus, Bart. : it occupies the site of the ancient
mansion of the Eromonds, erected, as mentioned above, by John Antrobus, Esq., who
died in 1813.* Noeth Cheam Paek, the property of Archdale Palmer, Esq., is now used
as a school.
The benefice of Cheam is a rectory in the deanery of Ewell, and in the peculiar juris
diction of the Ai'chbishop of Canterbury. It is valued in the Liber Eegis at £17 5s. 5d.,
paying for procurations 6s. 8d. The patronage went with the manor of East Cheam, and
thence to the Crown, and was granted out on lease. In 1585 Queen Elizabeth granted
the reversion in fee to Sir Christopher Hatton. It belonged afterwards to Lord Lumley,
and descended, with his estate, to his nephew, Henry Lloyd, who, with his son, conveyed
it in 1638 to Benjamin Holford, by whom it was transferred, in the same year, to the
College of St. John, Oxford (in which it continues), for the consideration of £380. The
Eegisters commence with 1538, and have few deficiencies.
It is remarkable that of six successive rectors of Cheam in the sixteenth and seven-
teenth centuries five should have become bishops.f
* Edmund Antrobus, Esq. (fourtli son of Philip AntroLus, Esq., of Congleton, in the county of Chester, by Mary,
daughter of Thomas Eowley, Esq., of Overton, in the county of Stafford), was created a Baronet in 1815, with remainder
to his nephews, Edmund William Antrobus and Gibbs Crawford Antrobus, Esqrs., the sons of his brother, John
Antrobus, Esq., of Cheam, by Anne, only daughter of Gibbs Crawford, Esq. Sir Edmund died without issue in 1826,
when, agreeably to the patent of creation, the title devolved upon his elder nephew. This gentleman, born in 1792,
married (in 1817) Anne, daughter of the Hon. Hugh Lindsay, brother of Alexander, sixth Earl of Balcarras, by whom he
had several children.
t 1. Anthony Watson, instituted in 1581, was promoted to the see of Chichester in 1596, and held Cheam in com-
mendam till his death in 1605, at which time he was Almoner to Kiag James. He was buried at Cheam.
2. Lancelot Andrews, Bishop of Chichester, was instituted m 1609 to the rectory of Cheam, which he resigned within
CHEAM. 303
Rectors of Chcam iu auci since 1800 : —
1.— Henry Peach, B.D. Instituted in 1780.
2.— William Bennett, B.D. Instituted in 1813.
3. — Thomas Carteret Maule, B.D. Instituted in 1856.
4:.— Charles Eobhes Rice, B.D. Instituted in 1867.
The old church, dedicated to St. Dunstan, consisted of nave, north and south aisles, a
chancel, and a low square tower, embattled, at the west end, in which were six bells.
a few months on liis promotion to Ely. He was afterwards translated to Winchester. This prelate was celebrated both
as a preacher and a writer. Fuller said that they who stole his sermons could not steal his manner. Queen Elizabeth
gave him the deanery of Westminster, which laid the foundation of his promotion under her successor, King James. He
had a considerable share in the translation of the Bible. He is said to have understood fifteen languages. The following
lines were applied to him : —
" If ever any merited to be
The Universal Bishop, tliis was he ;
Great Andrews, who the whole vast sea did drain
Of learning, and distUl'd it in his brain :
Those pious drops are of the purest kind.
Which trickled from the limbeck of his mind."
Bishop Andrews died in 1656, and lies buried in St. Saviour's Church, Southwark.
3. Geonje Mountain, or Mountaigne, was instituted to the rectory of Cheam on Bishop Andrews's translation to Ely in
1609; was promoted to Lichfield and Coventry in 1611 ; he resigned Cheam on his translation to Lincoln in 1617; he
afterwards became successively Bishop of London and of Durham, and, in 1628, Archbishop of York. He died in the
same year, and was buried at Cawood, in Yorkshire, the place of his nativity.
4. Richard Saihouse was instituted to the rectory of Cheam on the promotion of Bishop ilountain. He resigned in
1624, when made Bishop of Carlisle. He died in 1628.
5. John Raclid obtained the living of Cheam on the promotion of Bishop Senhouse. His motto was, " Serve God
and be cheerful." At the breaking out of the civU wars he was chosen by the clergy to be their advocate against the
Bill for taking away the Chiirch government. While in retirement at Clieam he continued to read the Common Prayer
until he was enjoined by the Surrey Committee to forbear, and found himself under the necessity of omitting sucli parts
as were most ofi'ensive to the Government. Soon after the Restoration, while holding the living of St. Andrew's, Holborn,
having received notice for the interment of a fanatic, he conmiitted the burial service to memory. " As he was a great
master of elocution, and was himself .always .affected with the propriety and excellence of the composition, he delivered it
with such emphasis and grace, as touched the hearts of every one present, and especially of the friends of the deceased,
who unanimously declared, that they had never heard a finer discourse. But how were they astonished, when they were
told that it was taken from our litivrgy ; a book, which, though they had never read, they had been taught to regard with
contempt and detestation !" Dr. Hacket, during his retirement with his pupil. Sir John Byron, at Newstead Abbey,
wrote a Latin comedy entitled Loyola, which was twice acted before James I. He resigned the rectory of Cheam iu
1C62, after holding it nearly forty years. This was the year after he had been promoted to the see of Lichfield and
Coventry. He expended £20,000 on the repairs and improvements of his cathedral ; he made additions to Trinity
College, Cambridge, at a cost of £1,200 ; and he left his valuiible Ubrary and various other benefactions to the university.
He died at Lichfield in 1670, and lies buried in the cathedral, under a handsome tomb erected liy hLs eldest son. Sir
Andrew Hacket, Master in Chancery.
The Rector of Cheam, between Bishop Watson and Bishop Andrews, was Thomas Playfere, Margaret Professor of
Di^^nity at Cambridge. He was instituted in 160.5, died iu 1609, and was buried in St. Botolph's Church, Cambridge,
" where there is an inscription to his memory full of the most extravagant praises."
The fia-st rector presented to Cheam by St. John's College was Edward Bernard, a learned linguist, critic, clironologist,
and astronomer. He was instituted in 1672, resigned in the follomng year, and was appointed Savilian Professor
of Astronomy at Oxford. He died in 1697, and was buried in the chapel of St. John's College.
304 HISTORY OF SURREY.
According to a note on a pane of glass taken out of the old palace at Croydon, " the church
of Cheme was burnt by lightning in 1639." The destruction, however, could have been
only partial, as the tower and part of the chancel walls, built of flint and stone, and of a far
more ancient date, remained : the external walls of the body of the church were of brick.
About thii-ty years ago an enlargement of the church, with many improvements, was
effected on the north side at an expense of .£700, which was defrayed by the principal
inhabitants, without a rate or any extraneous aid whatever. The nave, aisles, and tower
were pulled down in 1864, a new and beautiful church having been built by the side of
it. A new spire was added in 1870.
At the end of the south aisle of the old church was a small chancel, or chapel, called
Fromonds', in which the family of that name were buried. This chapel, dedicated to
St. Mary, was originally built previously to 1449, as John Yerde, in his will of that date,
directed his body to be buried therein.* Lady Stoui-ton, a descendant of the Fromonds,
rebuilt the chapel in 1750, but the floor was not disturbed.
In the chancel, which has been left standing, are monuments to the memory of John,
Lord Lumley, who died in 1609 ; t of his flrst wife Jane, eldest daughter and coheiress
of Henry Fitz-Alan, Earl of Arundel, who died in 1577 ; and of his second wife Elizabeth,
daughter of John, Lord D'Arey, of Chiche. Lord Lumley's monument is on the north
side of the chancel : it is of white marble, supported by two columns of the Corinthian
order; and on the sides are sculptured and emblazoned the armorial bearings of the
Lumleys, and of the families with whom they had intermarried, on nineteen shields. On
it is the family motto of the Lumleys: — " Murus teneus conscientia sana." On a marble
tablet below is a very long Latin inscription tracing the family of the Lumleys from their
Anglo-Saxon origin until the decease of Lord Lumley in 1609. J
* John Yerde bequeathed his estates in Surrey, after the death of his wife, to his second son John, to -whom,
also, he left " 400 muttons ; SOs. to the repair of the church ; and 20s. to the high altar." — Eegist. Lamh. Stafford,
f. 188, b.
t Of the above nobleman Camden says, " He was one of entire virtue, integrity, and innocence ; and in his old age,
a complete pattern of true nobility. Having so great a veneration for the memory of his ancestors that he caused monu-
ments to be erected for them, in the collegiate church of Clieater le Street (opposite Lumley Castle) in the order as they
succeeded one another, from Liulphus do-mi to liis own time ; which he had either piclced out of the demolished
monasteries, or made new." He was High Steward of the University of Oxibrd ; and, having a taste for literature, he
collected a line library, in which he was assisted by his brother-in-law, Humphrey Lloyd. After liis death the books
were purchased by King James, and they became the foundation of the Royal Library, which now forms part of the
collection in the British Museum.
t This monument, with its inscriptions, is engraved in Sandford's " Genealogical History." The inscriptions arc
also preserved in Lysons's " Environs," vol. i. p. 141, and in Manning and Bray's "Surre)'," vol. ii. p. 474.
Liulph, the ancestor of the Lumleys, was a baron of great consideration in the time of Edward the Confessor.
According to Dugdale, Camden, and others, the family took its surname from Lumley Castle, on the Wear, at the com-
mencement of the Norman era. John, Lord Lumley, to whom this note refers, was the only son of the Honourable
George Lumley, attainted and executed for high treason in 29 Henry VIII. : on his own death, without surviving issue,
CHEAM. 30s
The monument of Jane, Lady Lumlej^, Lord Lumley's first wife, a -woman greatly
distinguished by learning and talent,* is on the south side of the chancel. In the upper
part is the eflSgy of the deceased, kneeling, in has%o relievo. Beneath is a large altar tomb
of marble and alabaster, covered with a slab of black marble (fractured). On tlie front, in
two compartments, are the two sons and the daughter of the deceased, richly sculptured in
alabaster, kneeling. At each end are the arms and quarterings of Fitz-Alau and Lumley.
At the top is a horse with a branch of a tree in his mouth, a crest of Fitz-Alan ; and below,
in a small oval, is St. George on foot fighting with the dragon. At each corner is a hawk.
The monument of Lord Lumley's second wife, Elizabeth, daughter of John, Lord
D'Arcy, of Chiche, is Avithiu a recess, and comprises the effigy of the deceased, in alabaster,
lying at full length. At the head and feet are the arms of Lumley and D'Arcy ; above is
a brief inscription, f
There are also several memorials of the Fromond family. Amongst others is a brass plate
(imperfect) on which is a representation of the Father crowned, in the act of blessing, with
his left hand on a crucifix, and the dove hovering about his head ; also a man and a
woman (the latter with a head-dress resembling that of Margaret Gaynsford at Carshalton),
each before an altar, attended by six sons and four daughters, with the following
inscription : —
I3ni!) for the soitllcs of "Hhomaa ^vomoub (Estiuucr Htii) ffiltr.ibdh his toiiffc, bixttshttv mii Ktvcr of .gohn
Icric CEsqnscr, tohichc •Ehomas icccssgb tlu .v.xi^' bau of #arclic, tlit w of o' gorb ©ob Jrl'Q'-^SEE, aub in the
xx.xiti'' Ecrc of the reognc of liunge gjenr^ the "OEEith. (Dit tohose souUcs J'hu habc mcwj), a.
Also various handsome memorials of the Pybus and Small families. One of these, an
urn of yellow marble partly covered with white, commemorates Ann, Lady Fletcher,
second daughter of John Pybus, Esq., and widow of Brigadier-General Sir Eobert
the new barony of Lumley expired. Sir Richard Lumley, who inherited under his will, was created, in 1G28, Viscount
Lumley of Waterford. He was the great-great-great-grandfather of John Lumley Savile Saunderson, late Eurl of
Scarbrough.
* She translated the Iphigenia of Euripedes, and some of the Orations of Isocrates, into English, and one of the
latter into Latin. The manuscripts are in the British Museum. {VuU Walpole, " Royal and Noble Authors ; " Lysons,
" Enwons," vol. i. p. 144.) In the latter work is an engraving of the upper compartment of the monument, including
the figure of Lady Lumley.
+ By deed, dated 1597, made between John, Lord Lumley, of the one part, and William Fromond and other inhabitants
of Cheam, of the other part, his lordship states that " he had caused three monuments to be erected in West Cheam, for
liimself. Lady Jane his wife deceased, and Lady Elizabeth then his wife ; he hopes they may be preserved, and that
there is not any person of godly disposition, humour, or condition, who will deface, destroy, or take away tlie same ;
and in consideration that the clerk be careful to sweep and rub the said monuments, and that the parson shall call on the
clerk to perform this, and for relief of the poor, he grants to Fromond and the others a yearly rent-charge of 40s. issuing
out of his estate here, to be paid at Lady-day only in every year ; of which 6s. 8d. was to be paid to the parson, 133. 4d.
to the clerk, and 2s. a piece to 10 poor people." This trust was said, by Manning, to have been renewed. It does not
appear that these interesting memorials have suffered from either neglect or ill-treatment, though the hand of time is busy
with them.
VOL. III. E R
3o6 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Fletcher, Knt., Commander-in-chief of the British Forces on the coast of Coromandel.
She died in 1791, and her remains were iaterred in the vault of the Pybus family.
In the middle of the south aisle, on descending the steps from Fromond's Chajjel,* is a
stone, the central brass of which is gone ; but there are two shields remaining, witli
chevrons and fleurs-de-lis, and a plate inscribed —
gavth'us c^Minounbcs filius ct lures "SClwme' Jfrnmownbt nuptr be ffihcrli'm in rom. ^Surr. (Stit. obitt
scptimff bic Jl«Hjanno g'nt 1570. t
A brass plate has the subjoined inscription, in capitals, and in perfect preservation : —
Eeader, this marble will consume like tlie Ijodies it covers ; but while it endures know that it preserves the
memorie of a saint departed, Edmund Bareet, Esq. Serjeant of the wine-cellar to King Charles, who rendered
his soule to God in the 65th yeare of his age, Aug. 17, 1631 ; and this portion of sacred earth hath received his
body, which is sequestered for the resurrection. He was happy in two wedlocks ; and both were fruitful to
him. His former wife, Dorothtj Apssley, did bear him three sonns, Thomas, £dmuiul,aiid John, and one daughter,
Constance. His second ynie, Ruth Gausten, brought him three sonns into the world, Robert, Francis, and Edward,
and two daughters, Ruth and Margaret: many of these he left behind, and a good name to honour him. His
eldest Sonne, Thomas Barret, Gent, sometime Clerk of the Wardrobe to King Charles, bequeathed his spii-it to
Jesus Christ, and his bodie to this same earth, shortly after the decease of his father, for he finished his days
Aprill 28, 1632, in the 36 yeare of his age, leaving the sorrow for his departrrre to many friends, chiefly to his
loving wife, Mary Purton, by whom hee had no issue. Thus father and sonn are composed together in the
grave of corruption. Loving they were in their lives ; and in their death they are not divided. Keader, praise
God for the happy departure of his faithful servants ; and fare tliee well.
On a black marble in the floor, near the south wall, is an inscription (reflecting honour
upon all parties concerned) to the memory of Jane Pattinsou, waiting-woman to her Grace
Diana, fii'st wife of John, Duke of Bedford. In consideration of her faithful services, her
noble mistress, on her death-bed in 1735, recommended her to the Duke's favour; aud
from his Grace she received quarterly, to the day of her death iu 1755, an allowance of
£500 a year. " Enabled by so generous a benefaction, she testified the goodness of her
heart by frequent acts of charity to the poor, by distinguished gratitude to her relations
and friends, and liberal donations to many publick societies."
Amongst the more modern memorials may be especially mentioned that of the late Philip
Antrobus, Esq. (on the south wall of the chancel), of Lower Cheam, of white marble,
projecting from a grey marble background, aud supported by brackets. His decease in
1816 is recorded on a tablet affixed beneath a sculptured pediment, supported by two
fluted columns, as also is that of Sir Edinimd Antrobus, Bart., who died in 1826.
Also a neat tablet of white marble inscribed to the memory of the Eev. Hemy Peach,
* Formerly against the north wall, bat removed, at the time of the enlargement of the cliurch many years ago, to the
left of the gallery over Fromond's Chapel, was a white marble mon\iment to the memory of Fanny Maria Davenport, wife
of Richard Davenport, Esq., of Court Garden, in the county of Bucks. In the church and churchyard are numerous
memorials of the Sanxay family, long settled at Cheam, and connected by blood witli that of Antrobus.
t Jane, one of the daughters of Bartholomew Fromond, married the celebrated Dr. Dee.
CHEAM. 307
tiiirty-three years rector of this parish, who died in 1813; of his wife, a daughter, and
two sons.
Two other white marble tablets, exactly corresponding in size and style, commemorate
John Antrobus, Esq., who died in 1813, and Clement Kyunersley, Esq., of Loxlcy Park, in
the county of Stafford, and of Carshalton, in Surrej^, who died in 1815, and his daughter,
wife of Thomas Sneyd, Esq., of Loxley Park, who died in 1808.
The brasses discovered in 186-1, when the old church was pulled down, are described in
a paper of the Siu-rey ArchaBological Society.
In the churchyard, near the north side of the tower, is an obelisk within rails, marking
the burial-place of the Farmer fiunily. On the south side of the churchyard is a black
marble tomb covering the remains of Henry Neal, of Christiana his wife, and of their daughter,
Eliza Button. The inscription is interesting only from its reference to the fact that the
daughter, " EHza Dutton, was murdered, in 1687, by her neighbour, while endeavouring to
make peace between him and his Avifc."
Here lyes the best of wives, of mothers, and of friends,
Whose soul, too good for earth, in heaven attends.
With joy and comfort till the day of doome.
When all her vii-tuous deeds shall thither come :
To save her neighbour she has spilt her blood,
And like her Saviour died for doing good.
May that civrs'd hand forget itself to feed
That made its benefactour thus to bleed !
In 1868 the Eev. E. C. S. Tabor, of C!heam School, built on his premises a beautiful
chapel, from designs by Carpenter, which is used daily during term under license from the
Bishop.
In 1876 St. Philip's Ciiuech, on Cheam Common, was consecrated as a chapel -of-ease ;
it contains 300 sittings, which are free and open. This church was intended for the use of
a large working population which was springing up within the last twelve years on the north
side of the parish, a mile or two from the parish church, and principally in the immediate
neighbourhood of Worcester Park station.
National and Sunday schools, for Cheam and Cuddington, were established here by
voluntary subscriptions in 1826. Arch dale Palmer, Esq., of North Cheam Park, gave the
ground for the building, and was also a liberal contributor to the cost of the foundation.
About 150 boys and girls are educated here, the schoolmaster and mistress enjoying a
liberal salarj^, with an excellent house and garden.
At the time of the incorporation of the parish of Cheam with the Epsom Union,
sundry tenements called almshouses, in the hands of the churchwardens and overseers
K K 2
3o8 HISTORY OF SURREY.
for the time being, and occupied by the parish poor, were sold to assist in discharging the
expense of incorporation.
In 1869 the Parochial Kooms were built in the centre of the village. These contain
school accommodation for 160 ; also a working man's reading-room.
Near the church is an ancient timber-built house to which tradition gives a date (erro-
neously we conceive) of more than four hundred years. It is known by the name of White-
hall House ; and one of its rooms, called the Council Chamber, is said to have been used
by Queen Elizabeth when at the palace of Nonsuch, in Cuddington, for State purposes.*
During the time of the great plague in 1666 several persons sent their children to
Cheam to a gentleman who kept a small school in Whitehall House. The school afterwards
became eminent, and amongst those educated there was Dr. Charles Davenant, son of Sir
William Davenant the poet. The establishment appears to have existed continuously down
to the time when the master, the Eev. Dr. Sanxay, built the present school on a lease of
ninety-nine years, which expired about 1818. It is a substantial, well-located residence,
with large, lofty, and airy rooms.
The pupils were successfully educated by Dr. Mayo on the Pestalozzian system, and
under him the school attained great celebrity.
One of the masters, the Eev. Wm. Gilpin, was the lineal descendant of the celebrated
Bernard Gilpin, who lived in the times of EUiiabeth, Mary, and Edward VI., and was
termed the " Northern Apostle." William Gilpin was born at Carlisle in 1724, and he
received his education at Queen's College, Oxford. He published the " Life of Bernard
Gilpin," his ancestor; the "Lives of Latimer, Wickliff, Huss, and Cranmer;" an
"Exposition of the New Testament; " " Observations relative to Picturesque Beauty; "
a " Tour to the Lakes ; " " Kemarks on Forest Scenery ; " " Sermons to a Country
Congregation;" " Moral Contrasts ; " the "Life of John Trueman and Eichard Atkins,
for the Use of Servants' Halls, Farmhouses, and Cottages," &c. He died in 1804,
leaving the profits of his publications for the endowment of a school at Boldre. Sawrey
Gilpin, the well-known animal painter, who died in 1807, was his youngest brother.
* Beneatli a portion of the building (now removed) was a vault cut out of the sand rock, 27 feet in length, 14 in
breadth, and 1 1 in height, with a descent of twenty steps. It was arched at the top with brick : at its extremity was another
flight of steps leading to a smaller vault, or cave. The origin of these vaults, stUl partially in existence, and employed
for menial purposes, is uncertain ; but there is an idle tradition that one Mr. Bovey, who lived in the house, and who
died about 1700, made use of them for the coining of money : it is added, by way of corroboration, that he spent great
part of his time in them, and that he paid all his bills in new coin ! Upwards of a hundred years ago, according to
Manning and Bray, a bricklayer, in repairing the pavement of the wash-house belonging to Whitehall House, found a
vault arched over, and in it an iron chest, which he carried away, telling the owner that there was nothing in it; but,
from being a poor man, he soon after bought houses at Sutton. There is a monument in the church to the memory of
James Bovey, Esq., who died in 1695, and his wife Margaretta, who died in 1714.
MllLMAM. 309
Henry Pestalozzi, the originator of a new system of education, was born at Ziirirli in
1745. His method turns on the idea of communicating all instruction by immediate
adcbess to the sensations or conceptions, and oliecting the mental formation of the pupil
by constantly calling all his powers into exercise. Pestalozzi commenced his career of
instruction by the admission of the children of the poor into his house, and in 1798 the
Directory of Switzerland invited liim to establish a house at Stanz, where he became the
instructor of eighty poor children. War destroyed this establishment, and Pestalozzi
then took charge of a school at Burgdorf. This institution flourished, and in 1804 he
removed it to Yverduu, in the Canton de Vaud, where he occupied the castle given to him
by the Government, and resumed his labours for the instruction of the higher and middle
classes of society. He died in 1827. A brief memoir of his life is inserted in the
Gentleman's Magazine for the above year.
The straggling, scattered village of Mitcham, designated 3Ilchclham, or the Great
Dwelling,* in the Doomsday survey, is bounded on the north by Merton, on the cast by
Streatham, on the south by Croydon, and on the west by Mordou. The soil is principally
a rich black mould, and for upwards of a hundred years an extensive portion of the
land has been appropriated to the culture of medicinal plants.
At the time of the Doomsday sur^■ey there appear to have been five manors in the parish ;
there are now only three — Mitcham, or Canon ; Biggin and Tamworth ; and Ravensbury.
The following extracts from the Doomsday Book will be found to refer to the respective
manors : —
" In Waleton hundred, the Canons of Baieux hold of the Bishop (Odo) Michclliam as
5 hides. Brictric held it of King Edward. He had 6^ hides; but Otbert had possession
of 1 hide, which his predecessor held of Brictric, as security for half a mark of gold. In
the land of the Canons are four villains, and one cottar, with 2 carucatcs ; and uno
bondman, and 40 acres of meadow. The arable land amounts to 2 carucatcs. It was and
is valued at 40s. In the land of Otbert are 4 acres of meadow, worth 7s. ; and noliiiug
further.
" Ansgot holds half a hide of the Bishop. It is valued at 5s.
" In the same manor, the Canons hold of the Bishop 2L hides, which two men held of
* In early records, and in many of more recent date, it is written Micdiam, or Micham: the present mode of spulliiif;,
which is further from its etymology, was not universally adopted earlier than the middle of the last century.
310 HISTORY OF SURREY.
King Edward. There is in the demesne 1 carucate ; with one villain, and two bordars ;
and one bondman; and half a carucate (of arable land), and 12 acres of meadow. It has
always been valued at 20s.
" William (Fitz-Ansculf) holds Michelham, which Lemar held of Zing Edward. Then,
as at present, it was assessed at 2 hides, and 1 virgate. There are two villains, and six
cottars ; and half a mill, at 20s. In the time of Zing Edward it was valued at 40s. : now
at the same : when received, at 13s. 4d.
"The Canons of Baieux also hold of the Bishop Witford* which Edmer held of Zing
Edward. It was then, as at present, assessed at 3 hides. The arable land is 2 carucates.
There is 1 carucate in the demesne ; and two villains, and six cottars, with 2 carucates,
and 4 acres of meadow. It has been valued in the time of Zing Edward, and now, at
30s. : when received, at 10s.
"William Fitz-Anseulf holds Witford; and William the Chamberlain holds it of him.
Lanch held it of Zing Edward, when it was assessed at 2 hides: now at 1. The arable
land is ... . One carucate is in the demesne ; and there are two villains, with 1
carucate ; and a mill at 20s. ; and 24 acres of meadow. In the time of Zing Edward it
was valued at 50s. : afterwards at 22s. : now at 60s."
The manors of Michelham and Witford, held by the Canons of Bayeux, are supposed
by Manning to have been retained by them until the reign of Edward III., who, on
declaring war against France in 1338, confiscated all the estates belonging to alien priories
and abbeys in this country, and gave Mitcham to the Prior of St. Mary Overy, in South-
wark. On the suppression of monasteries ia the reign of Henry YIII., this estate, falling
into the hands of the Zing, was granted by letters-patent to Nicholas Spakman and
Christopher Harbottell, citizens of London. In 1552 they conveyed the estate to
Lawrence Warren, by whom it was sold in the following year to Nicholas Burton, of
Carshalton. In 1619 Sir Henry Burton, Z.B., the grandson of Nicholas, transferred (by
sale) the manor of Mitcham, or Canon, with the rectory and advowson, to Sii- Nicholas
CarcAV, alias Throckmorton, whose son and heir, Sir Francis, in 1645 settled it on his
daughter Eebecca on her marriage with Thomas Temple, Esq. ; and in 1647, in conjunction
with his son-in-law, he mortgaged the estate to Thomas Hatnond, Esq. In 1656 and
10 57 the parties joined in a sale to Eobert Cranmer (said to have descended from the
family of Archbishop Cranmer), of London, merchant, who in 1659 purchased the
parsonage (or manor-house), which had been separated from the rest of the estate. Mr.
* Between Upper and Lower Mitcham is Wykibrd (or Witford) Lane ; but of the manors of Witford there are no
other traces remaining. (Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 195.)
Mil CHAM. 3H
Cranmer died in 1G65, and his grandson, James Cranmcr, Esq., left this property to his
sister, Esther Maria, -wife of Captain DLxon, for her life, with remainder to her sou, the
Rev. Eichard Dixon, who assumed the surname of Cranmer; and to him the Mitchara estate
belonged in 1809. It is now the property of William Simpson, Esq., who, with James
Bridgcr, Esq., is joint lord of the manor.
The Manoe of Biggin and Tamworth. — This was probably one of the manors held by
Fitz-Ansculf at the time of the Doomsday survey. The fee afterwards belonged to the
Clares and their successors, Earls of Gloucester, for lliigh de Audele, Earl of Gloucester
in right of his wife Margaret dc Clare, died seized of it in 1347 ; but it was held as of the
honour of Gloucester by the Trior and Canons of Merton. Soon after the suiipression of
that priory Henry YIII. granted the manors of Byggin and Tamworth, with other lands
and tenements, to Eobcrt Wylford, citizen of London, and Joan his wife. She appears to
have survived her husband, and is supposed to have remarried John, Lord Mordaunt, lord
of the manor in 1567. After belonging successively to the families of "Whitney, Carew,
Caryll, Thm-land, and Manship, this estate was purchased, in or about 1750, by James
Moore, Esq., chief proprietor of the extensive plantations of medicinal herbs at Mitcham.*
The Manor of Eavensbtjey. — This appears to have been the same with the manor of
Witford, held, according to the Doomsday record, of William Fitz-Ansculf by William the
Chamberlain. In the reig-n of Henry III. Alexander de Witford held one knight's fee in
Mitcham of Enger dc Somerie as of the honom- of Dudley, formerly the principal seat of
the Fitz-Ansculf family. In 1250 William dc la Marc was lord of the manor, which seems
to have been retained by the same family for more than a century. Sir Nicholas Carreu
had a grant of free-warren in all his demesne lands here in 1375. Sir John Burghersh,
Knt., held laud at Mitcham called AUmannesland, with the manor of Eavensbury, in 15
Eichard II. ; and John Aruudell, Esq., in right of his marriage with Margaret, eldest
daughter of Sii- John, held the same manor and land in 2 Henry VI.* The manor
belonged, in the reign of Heniy YIL, to John de la Pole, Earl of Lincoln, after whose
attainder it was granted to Simon Digby. Subsequently it became the property of
Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, who in 1531 sold it to Sir Nicholas Carew ; and it has
since been transferred with Beddington, the trustees of the late Capt. Charles U. Carew,
E.N., son of Admiral Sir Benjamin Hallowell Carew, being the present owners.
This parish is divided into Upper and Lower Mitcham, between which is a lane called
Whitford Lane, the only trace now remaining of what was formerly called Wykford, or
* Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 498.
t "Calend. Inquis. post Mortem," vol. iii. p. 13.3, and vol. iv. p. 79.
312 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Witford. The run of water from the common at one time formed a washway through that
part of the village to Merton, but it has been long since covered over.
Figge's Marsh, a small common here at the entrance from London, derives its name
from William Figge, who in the time of Edward III. was owner of part of the land held
of the King by the service of finding a pound in which to keep his distresses.*
Mitcham, "noted," say the biographers of Dr. Donne,t "for good air and choice
company," has been at different times the residence of several persons of consideration.
Sir Walter Ealeigh had a house and estate here in right of his wife Elizabeth, daughter
of Sir Nicholas Carew, alias Throckmorton, who had been Maid of Honour to Queen
Elizabeth. He sold the property when he went on his expedition to Guiana. His mansion
-was at the corner of Whitford Lane, and was formerly knoAvn, while occupied as a board-
ing-school, by the name of Ealeigh House. Sir Julius Csesar, Master of the EoUs, also
had a residence here ; and in 1598 he was honoured by a visit from Queen Elizabeth,
which he thus recorded : —
"Tuesday, Sept. 12, the Queen visited my house at Mitcham, and supped and lodged
there, and dined the next day. I presented her with a gown of cloth of silver richly
embroidered ; a black net-work mantle with pure gold ; a taffeta hat, white, Avith several
flowers, and a jewel of gold set therein with rubies and diamonds. Her Majesty removed
from my house after dinner the 13th of September to Nonsuch, with exceeding good content-
ment ; which entertainment of her Majesty, with the former disappointment [believed to
have been an expected visit from the Queen in September, 1596, but which was not made],
amounted to £700 sterling, besides mine own provisions, and what was sent by my friends." %
* Escheats, 23 Edwai-J III. p. 2, n. 15.
t Of the celebrated Dr. Donne, Dean of St. Paul's, who lived gome time at Mitcham, copious and very curious
particulars may he found in the " Biographia Britannica," and in Fuller's " England's Worthies." Dryden said he was
" the greatest wit, though not the greatest poet, of our nation ; " and Dr. Johnson termed him the founder of the meta-
physical school of poetry. Dr. John Barwick, in his " Life of Bishop Morton," states that he saw a portrait of Donne at
Lincoln's Inn, " all enveloped with a darkish .shadow, his face and features hardly discernible, with this ejaculation and
wish written thereon, ' Domine Ulumina tenebras meas ; ' and that tliis wish was afterwards accomplished, when, at the
persuasion of King James, he entered into holy orders." Granger also tells us that, "some time before his death, when
he was emaciated with study and sickness, he caused himself to be wrapped up in a sheet, which was gathered over his
head, in the manner of a shroud ; and having closed his eyes, he had his portrait taken ; which was kept by his bed-side,
as long as he lived, to remind him of mortality. The effigy on his monument, in (old) St. Paul's church, was done after
this portrait." (See Dugdale's History of that Cathedi-al, p. 62.) Ob. March 31st, 1631.
Another phenomenon in the literary world, an inhabitant of Mitcham, was Moses Mendez, a rich poet (!) of Jewish
extraction. He is said to have been the son of a stockbroker, or notary. Educated at Oxford, he took the degree of
M.A. in 1750. At the time of hia death, in 1758, he was reported to be worth ^100,000. He was the intimate friend of
the author of " The Seasons," and he himself wrote four little dramatic pieces^T/ie Chaplet, The Shepherd's Lottery, Robin
Hood, and The Double Disappointment, besides a poem called " Henry and Blanche," &c. Some of his productions are to
be found in Dod.sley's Collection.
X Manuscript of Sir Julius Csesar, Brit. Mus. No. 4160, Ayscough's Catalogue. Sir Julius Caesar, descended, by the
female line, from the Duke de Csesarini, in Italy, is said to have been " not only one of the best civilians, but also one of
MiTCHAM Grove, a villa on the north siilc of tlio road leading to Sutton, with a branch
of the river Waudlo meandering through its plantations, was purchased by Lord Clive,
and presented to Sir Alcxtinder WedderLurn (afterwards Lord Chancellor Longhhorongh),
in retnrnfor his celebrated defence of that nobleman in the House of Commons. Lord
Loughborough sold it to Ucnry Iloarc, Esq., from whom it passed to Sir John William
Lubbock, Eart. It is now the residence of John JL. Stanton, Esq.
An object of some interest to the antiquary is an ancient house in this parish, formerly
the property of Mrs. Sarah Chandler. This house, in which arc the remains of a chapel,
is conjectured to have been, at a very early period, the property of ITenry Strete, " who had
a license for an oratorj- in his house at Mitcham in 1348. It is held under the Dean and
Chapter of Canterbury, and its proprietors claim a right to the north aisl(> of (ho church." *
This benefice is a vicarage, in the deanery of Ewell aiid diocese of Eochester. 'Die
advowson belonged to the priory of St. Mary Ovcry as early as 12G0, when a line was
levied on it to the prior and convent. In 1315 they are said to have held it as of the
honour of Gloucester. After the dissolution both the rectory and the advowson of tlu^
vicarage were granted with the manor of Mitcham Canon. The great tithes were sold by
Eobcrt Cranmer, Esq., as mentioned in a preceding page ; but the vicarage remained with
the manor. In the Yalor of Edward I. the rc:ctory Avas valued at 20 marks, the vicarage
at 8. In the King's books Mitcham is reckoned amongst the discharged livings, and is
rated at £10 Os. lOd. In 1734 the Eev. Dr. Monckton gave £200, and in 1735 Mr. Chas.
Dubois gave £200, to purchase Queen Anne's bounty. Lysons states that the income of
the vicarage has boon much improved of late years by the extension of the '' physic
gardens," the tithes of which constitute a principal part of its revenues. Tlu; village of
Mitcham, which is of considerable extent, is partly situated on the skirts of the high-road
leading from London to Eeigate. A small bridge crosses the Wandle near Mitcham Grove.
Belonging to this parish are several Eegisters, commencing M'ith 1558, and nearly
comiilete from that date. Among the entries are the two following : —
Anne the daugliter of George WasliforJ, who had twenty-four fingers and toes; Iwptized 0,t. in, n;!iiX
Widow Durant, aged one liundred and three years, buried Sep. 23, 1711.
the best men of his time. He died in 1C39, and was buried in the church of Great St. Helen's, nciir Bishopsgate, London.
His monument, designed by himself, represents a scroll of parchment. The inscription, in which lie engages himself
wUlingly to pay the debt of nature to his Creator, is in the form of a bond ; appendant to which is hia seal, a coat of
ai-ms, with his name affixed."— Granger, Bio/jraphical History, vol. i. p. 390.
* In support of tliis chum, it appears that the family of lllyng1i^•ortll, biuicd in the north aisle in the sLvteenth century,
held a house and lands under the church of Canterbury in the time of Edward IV. (Escheats, 16 Edw. IV. No. 30.)
For an account of some brasses and inscriptions (now lost) of tlie Illyngworths in the north aisle see Aubrey, " Surrey,"
vol. ii. p. 144 ; also Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 503.
VOL. III. S S
3 14 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Vicars of Miteham in apd since 1800 : —
1. — Streynsham Derhy shire Myers, M.A. Instituted in 1779.
I.—Ricliard Cranmer, LL.B. Instituted in 1824.
3. — James Henry Maplefon, B.LL. Instituted in 1829.
4. — James Gotvles Prichard, M.A. Instituted in 1833.
5. — Henry James Wharton, M.A. Instituted in 1846.
6. — Daniel Frederic Wilson, M.A. Instituted in 1859.
The old church, dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, was built chiefly of flint. It
consisted of nave, two aisles, and a chancel, with a square embattled tower crowned with
a turret at the east end of the south aisle. In 1637, according to Aubrey, it was greatly
injured by lightning, and had ten bells melted.*
The old church remained until the present century, when, from the increase of the
population, it became desirable to raise a new structure upon an enlarged scale. Accord-
ingly an Act of Parliament was obtained for the purpose, and in 1819 the first stone
marking the boundary of the church northward was laid by the Eev. S. D. Myers, M.A.,
the vicar. The building, the estimate for which was £8,000, was completed in 1822.
By an enlargement of the ground-plan additional sittings were obtained for 555 persons.
The rebuilding of the church is further commemorated by the following inscription on
the north side of the chancel : —
In token of respect, gratitude, and affection to one of tlie most excellent of mothers, Mrs. Hester Maria
Cranmer, late patroness of tliis vicarage church of Miteham, ivho died the iVtli of January, 1819, and ^vith whom
the rehuilding of this sacred edifice originated, this stone was laid on the 27th of August, 1819, by the present
impropriator, the Rev. Richard Cranmer, LL.B. George Smith, arcliitect. John Chart, buUder. The boundary
of this chancel extends thirty-four feet seven inches westward from the centre of this stone.
The present church, a large and heavy structure in the pointed style of architecture,
•consists of nave and side aisles, chancel, north aisle, and an embattled tower. Excepting
the lower part of the tower, a relic of the ancient edifice, and composed of flint, the
materials are what builders technically term " brick and compo." The tower, which stands
at the east end of the south aisle, and contains eight bells, is in four stories, with octa-
gonal buttresses, terminating in crocheted stone pinnacles, with large finials : its finish
is a pierced battlement.f
* It is stated by Aubrey that thirteen churches in the county of Surrey suffered more or less from the same storm.
(" Surrey," vol. ii. p. 143.)
t On the right of the entrance to the tower from the south is a relic of " the olden time." It consists of a pointed
idche in the wall, divided into two compartments by a shelf. In the lower compartment was a piscina ; in the upper a
lamp was accustomed to be kept burning.
Exteriorly tlic south, aisle is formed iuto five divisions by buttresses : in the western-
most is a doorway ; iu the remainder are windows of three lights each, with a transom
in the sweep of the arch : the arches of the respective windows spring from grotesque
heads. The north side of the cburch is similar to the soxith, excepting the tower, instead
of which are pointed windows. The clerestory of the nave has four small windows of two
lights each, with cinquefoil heads.
Beneath, the great west window, in a recess formed by a large poiuttd arth, is a
monument to the memory of Sir Ambrose Crowley, Alderman of Loudon, and his lady,
the former of whom died in 1713, the latter in 1727.*
The interior of this church is remarkably neat, and more iu accordance with the
principles of good taste than the exterior. The nave is divided from the aisles by four
pointed arches resting upon columns, formed by a union of cylinders witb plain capitals.
Three of the cylinders of each column rise to the roof, which is groined, and adorned
with bosses of foliage, &c. At the MTst end, where the organ is placed, and on the north
and south, sides of the nave, arc galleries : the south aisle is broken by the toAver. The
chancel, divided from the nave by a narrow pointed arch, has a gallery on the north side.
The altar-piece consists of four pointed panels, inscribed with the decalogue, creed, &c.
The pulpit is hexagonal, and painted iu imitation of wainscot, corresponding with the
galleries and pews. The font, a square stone basin supported by four small pillars, is
ornamented with tracery in the pointed style.
Nearly all the monuments in the old church, chiefly of a mural character, have been
transferred to the present structure. In the chiu'cb arc memorials of the Tate family,
who for several generations were great benefactors of the parish. One in the north
aisle, to Mrs. Elizabetb Tate, who died in 1821, is by Westmacott, and represents a
female figure, with a cup iu the left hand, and pointing to the skies with the right. Nearly
adjoining is an elegant table of white marble in memory of George Tate, Esq., who died
in 1822.
Among the tombs in the churchyard is that of Mrs. Anne Ilallam, a favourite actress
of the early part of last centiu-y, celebrated by her performance of Lady Macbeth and
Lady Touchwood. She died in 1740.
A new ecclesiastical district (Cheist Chuech) was formed here iu 1872. It contains a
population of about 1,000, and the living, valued at £300 with house, is in the gift of
Mr. and Mrs. "W. J. Harris.
* In the old church this monument occupied a space in the north chancel. In ridicule of the bribery resorted to in
City elections, Sir Richard Steele, in the 73rd number of the Taller, fired off a squib at the expense of Sir Ambrose
Crowley, under the name of Sir Humphrey Greenhat.
s s 2
3i6 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Mitcliam, as will be seen by the subjoiucd list, enjoys various benefactions : — •
1626. Henry Smitli, Esq., of London, gave ^£4 i^er annum, wliicli is laid out in great-coats, and given every
Clu-istmas, by the cliurcliwardeus, to sLx poor housekeepers not receiving alms.*
1639. Thomas Plunimer, Esq., left £\ per annum, which is laid out in bread, and given at the church every Sunday
morning, by the churchwardens, to the poor of the parish.
1709. Mrs. EUeu Fisher, of Hammersmith, left £200 to be laid out in lands of inheritance, the rent thereof being
.£14 per annum, to be given every Whit-Monday, by the minister, churchwardens, and trustees, to 24 poor housekeepers
not receiving alms.
1792. Mrs. Rosamond Oxtoby left £2 12s. per annum, to be laid out in bread, and distributed at tbe church every
Sunday morning, by the churchwardens, to the poor of the parish.
1815. Mrs. Rebecca Cranmer left £400, 3 per cent. Consols, to the minister and churchwardens on trust, the dividends
to be expended in the purchase of certain articles of clothing, for six poor widows of the parish, annually on St. Thomas's
day.
1817. Mrs. Ann Tate left £500 ; and, in 1821, her sister, EUzabeth Tate, left £1,000, to be hud out in stock ; the
dividends to be expended in the purchase of provisions, to be distributed annually, on Cluistmas eve, amongst the poor
of the parish not receiving alms.
In 1782 a large workliouse was built on the side of Mitcliam Common at tlie expense
of £1,200. A Sunday school was established here on an extensive plan, and a school-
house built in 1788.
In 1829 a row of almshouses, in the style prevalent in the latter part of the sixteenth
century, from designs by Buckler, was built, at the expense of Miss Tate, on the south
side of the Lower Green. These houses Avere endowed by the founder for twelve poor
Avidows or unmarried women of respectable character, members of the Church of England.
There are one or two Dissenting places of worship at Mitcham, but none of any importance
MORDON, OR MORDEX.
The parish of Mordon (anciently written Monhne^ or Ilordune, from mor and dune,
signifying a hill) is bounded on the north by Merton, on the east by Mitcham, on the
south by Carshalton, and by Cheam and Maiden on the west. The soil is a stiff clay,
and the land partly arable and partly meadow. In the Doomsday Book the manor is
described among the lands of the monks of Westminster, viz. : —
" The Abbot of St. Peter, Westminster, holds Ilordoiic, which in the time of King
Edward, was assessed at 12 hides ; now at 3 hides. The arable land amounts to
There are 3 carucates in the demesne ; and eight villains, and five cottars, Avith
4 carucates. There is one bondman ; and a mill, at -10s. In the time of King Edward it
was A^alued at £6, now at £10, and yet it is worth £15 " (or it produces £15).
* Aubrey (" Surrey," vol. ii. p. 142) has given cuiTency to the idle tale that " in the difl'usive Charity bestowed on
the largest part of this county, this Town was excepted by Mr. Smith, because he was whipp'd as a common Vagrant by
the Inhabitants here," to wliich the above annoimcement is an effectual refutation.
MORDOX. 3,7
This manor belonged to the Abbey of ■\Ycstrainster prior to the Con(|iie.st, and is
mentioned among the monastic estates in the charter of confirin;i(ion granted by Ivlward
the Confessor, as also in the charters of William I. and Edward I. At the dissolu-
tion the manor became vested in the Crown, and remained so until 7 Ivlward W., when it
■was granted under letters-patent to Lionel Ducket and Edward Whitchurch, of whom it
was purchased by Eichard Garth, Esq., in 1553. From him the estate descended to
Eichard Garth, who died in 1G41, seized of the manor, mansion, and lands here, and of
other messuages and estates at Merton, Maldon, and Carshaltou, leaving a sou and heir,
Cxeorge Garth, Esq., who married first Aime, sister and coheiress of Sir George Carlton, ]5art.,
who died in 1G55, and secondly Jaue, daughter of Sir Humphrey Bonnet, Knt., Avho
survived him, he having died in 1676, and his widow in 1699. By his first wife Mr. Garth
had Eichard, his successor in this estate, and several daughters ; by his second he had a
son named Henry, and a daughter, Elizabeth : the latter became the wife of Samuel
Gawden, Esq., and after his decease of William Gardiner, Esq., whom she also outlived,
and, dying in 1719, gave by will the sum of £300 for the foundation and support of a
school for poor children belonging to this parish.
Eichard Garth, Esq., a descendant of George Garth above mentioned, died in 1787,
leaving three daughters. He devised his estates to his eldest daughter, Clara, Avife of
Owen Putland Mcyrick, Esq., with remainder to her second sou, and, in defaidt of such
son, with similar remainders to his daughter Elizabeth, wife of William Lowndes Stone,
Esq., and to his youngest daughter, Mary, wife of Sir Jolin Frederick, l'>art. Clara,
Mr. Mej-rick's wife, dying without issue male, the estate descended in 1837 to Eichard,
second son of William Lowndes Stone, Esq., and Elizabeth his wife, who upon his
succession assumed the name and arms of Garth. It is stated, but erroneously, in tlu;
Liber Eegis, that the patronage of the living is alternately in the Garths and the Trittons ;
it has been invariably in the Garths from the reign of Queen Mary. Tlic old manor-house,
about a mile eastward from the church, is now called Mordon Hall, and is the residence
of Gilliat Hatfeild, Esq.
An estate here appears to have belonged to Isabella do Caron in tlie time of Xing Jolm,
for in the fifth year of his reign she obtained a charter for the right ol' I'rce-warrcu in her
lands at Mordon. There Avas also au estate called tSju/al, held, before the Eeformatioii, by
the Prior of Merton, Avhich Queen Elizabeth, iu 1002, granted in fee to John and Tlionias
Eoche. Eichard Garth, Esq., died seized of it in IGll, and left it to be sold for the i)ayment
of his debts and legacies. The manor now belongs to Sir Eichard Garth, Chief Justice of
Bengal, and formerly M.P. for Guildford. The Prior of Lccdes (iu Kent) had lands at Mordon.
3i8 HISTORY OF SURREY.
John Ewart, Esq., erected a handsome house, and enclosed land for a paddock, which he
held on lease for a long term of Mr. Garth. Having purchased Bysshe Court, in the parish
of Home, in 1788, he sold his house and grounds at this place, which afterwards belonged
to Thomas Conway, Esq., subsequently to Edward Polhill, Esq., and more recently to
George Cooper Eidge, Esq. It is now the residence of John Wormald, Esq. This
estate, known as Moedon Paek, lies to the north-west of the chiu-ch. The house is
seated on an eminence, amidst extensive pleasure grounds, diversified by plantations,
sheets of water, and other objects.
Advowson, &c. — This living is a rectory in the deanery of Ewell, and in the Valor
of Edward I. it is valued at 20 marks. In 1283 the monks of Westminster attempted
an appropriation of the benefice, but were unable to accomplish that object until 1300 : in
1331 they endowed it as a vicarage, with a house, a garden, 13 acres of arable land,
and 1 acre of meadow. At the dissolution it was granted with the manor, and has been
held by the Garth family nearly three centuries. In 1631, E. Garth, Esq., as stated by
Lysons ("Envu'ons," vol. i. p. 363), " converted the vicarage into a rectory, by endowing i(
with the great tithes and 14 acres of glebe." In the Liber Eegis the living is charged at
£7 12s. lid., paying for procurations and synodals 8s. 9d. The area of the parish
comprises 1,460 acres, of the ratable value of £7,600. The Eegisters, commencing
in 1634, were begun by the Eev. William Booth, M.A., the fii-st rector.
R6cio7's of Mordon in and since 1800 : —
,*■'
1. — John Withcrington Peers, D.C.L. Instituted in 1778.
2.—Eoicrt Tritton, M.A. Instituted in 1835.
3. — William TFzM/aw, of King's College, London. Instituted in 1878.
MoEDON Church, a long and narrow fabric, dedicated to St. Laurence, was rebuilt with
brick about 1636, "probably," as Manning says, "at the expense of Eichard Garth, Esq.,
who restored the great tithes to the living," and was buried here in 1639. The
ancient windows, however, which are of stone, and in the pointed style, appear to have
been preserved and refixed : that at the east end is designed with much elegance. This
building consists of a nave and chancel, with a low embattled tower at the west end
(containing three bells), and a small south porch, forming the chief entrance. Here,
also, is an elegant stone font of octagonal form, with quatrefoil ornaments sunk in the
panels, supported by a pedestal.* The sittings afi'ord accommodation for about 350
persons.
* Mr. James Legrew, a pupil of Cbantrey, was the artist.
"Within this cliurcli are numerous monuments, gravestones, and inscriptions on brass
to the memory of the Garth, Gardiner, Leheup, Carlton, Meyrick, Lo^yndcs, Batts, Iloarc,
and other flimilies, but the inscriptions have no general interest.
MOni)0>f CHUKCH.
In the churchyard arc a few old tombs of the Mauvillains, Highlords, and others, and
modern bm-ial-places and monuments of the Conway, Kidge, and Tritton families.
The benefactions to this parish, as appears from inscriptions in front of the gallery,
have been numerous, viz. : —
1625. Henry Smith, Esq., 20s. annually, payable from an estate at Bexhill, Sussex, to be distributed amongst the poor
of tlie parish not receiving alms.
1718. Mrs. Elizabeth Gardiner, widow, by will, £300 for building and endowing a free school in this her native
parish, for the children of the poor.
1731. Mrs. Elizabeth Garth, lady of the manor, gave the land on which the school-house was erected.
1776. Mrs. Elizabeth Garth, lady of the manor, the interest of £100 Old South Sea Annuities, to increase the salary
of the master of the free school founded by Mrs. Elizabeth Gardiner.
1787. Mrs. Mary Garth, of Kensington, Middlesex, spinster, the interest of £100 Old South Sea Annuities, to be
divided equally, on Christmas Eve, amongst six poor housekeeper's.
1795. Ifrs. Elizabeth Gardiner's bequest of £300 for the free scln
was laid out in the purchase of £895 lOs. 6d. Old South Sea Annuities.
1810. Mrs. Mary Batts, of Merton, spinster, £7 lOs. annually, t'
parochial relief, on Candlemas Day.
1822. John Francis Fuller, Esq., the interest of £125 lis. 9d. to be ilist
the poor.
1825.
1826.
1827.
to £600, the said sum
be distributed amongst the pour, not receiving
inually, in meat and peas, amongst
ibute
Owen Putland Meyrick, Esq., the interest of £118 17s. 5d. to be disbursed annually in the s;ime manner.
Edward PolhiU, Esq., the interest of £1000, 3 per cent. Consols, for peqietuating the Sunday school.
Mrs. Clara Meyrick, mdovr, and lady of the manor, £228 18s., the interest of which to be expended annually
in the purchase of blankets for distribution ;
,'st the poor at Christmas.
The Free School, mentioned above as built by Mrs. Elizabeth Gardiner, daughter of
George Garth, Esq., is at a short distance from the church. It was originally founded for
320 HISTORY OF SURREY.
the education of twelve cliildreii belonging to the parish, but it is now incorporated with
the Endowed National School.
A Sunday school, instituted in 1791, is supported chiefly by voluntary subscriptions.
This parish is incorporated with the Epsom Union. The poor-house, as part of the
manorial property, is now let out in tenements.
The parish of Sutton (that is. South-town) is bounded on the north by Mordon, ou the
east by Carshalton, on the south by Baustead, and on the west by Cheam. The land is
chiefly arable, with extensive downs, on which large numbers of sheep are annually reared.
The soil in the northern part is clay ; in the south, chalk, Avith an intervening narrow tract
of sand. At the last survey of the parish the area was estimated at 1,835 acres.
Sutton Common has been enclosed since 1810. A portion of it was then sold to the
highest bidder, and the proceeds are annually applied to the purchase of coals, and
distributed amongst the poor housekeepers, in compensation for their loss of common
rights. Bonnell Common, in this parish, is let for the breeding and preservation of game,
but the copyholders have the privilege of cutting bushes thereon from Michaelmas to
March. There is an extensive chalk-pit on the road from Sutton to Carshalton.
The manor is thus described in the Doomsday Book among the lands of the abbot and
convent of Chertsey :—
" The Abbey holds Siidtone. In the time of King Edward, it was assessed at 30 hides ;
now at 8-|- hides. The arable land amounts to 15 carucates. There are 2 carucatcs in the
demesne, twenty-one villains, and four cottars, with 13 carucates. There are two
chm'ches,* and two bondmen, and 2 acres of meadow. The wood yields ten swine. In the
time of King Edward, it was valued at £20 ; now at £15."
The name of Sutton- Abbot was sometimes given to this manor, from its monastic
proprietors, who, as lords of the fee, had a right to erect a gallows, a pillory, and a cucking-
stool. In 1538 the manors of Sutton, Epsom, Coulsdon, and Horley were purchased of
the Abbot of Chertsey by Henry VIII., who the same year granted them to Sir Nicholas
Carew, of Beddington, but on his attainder they escheated to the Crown. They were
granted and transferred, as stated in the account of Coulsdon, f until they came into the
possession of Sir Eobert D' Arcy, to whom they were given by his grand-uncle, Sii- Erancis
* Mr. Manning says, tliougli " two churclies are mentioned in Domesday, there is no trace of any other than the
present one."
t See under Coulsdon, p. 259, ante.
SUTTON. 3j,
Carew. D'Arcy died iu 1G25, leaving a sou aud lieii- uamed Edward, ^\•]^o iiiarried a
daughter of Richard Evelyn, Esq., of "Wotton, hut had no surviving issue.
This manor must have suhsequently reverted to the Crown; for Charles II., in 1GG3,
granted the manor aud the advowsou of the church to the Earl of Portlauil, ^\■hosc brother
and successor, Thomas, in 1GG9, sold Sutton to Sii- Eohert Long, from whom it was purchased,
in the ensuing month, by Sir Eichard Mason. He died in 1685, leaving two daughters, his
coheii-esses, one of whom by marriage conveyed the property to the family of Brownlowe,
and in 1716 Sir John Brownlowe transferred it by sale to Homy Cliffe, Esq., a captain in
the service of the East India Company. His son Henry died iu 1761, leaving a daughlor,
his sole heii-ess, Margaretta Eleauora, who, in 1785, married Thomas Hatch, Esq., of New
Windsor. That gentleman died iu 1822, and was succeeded by his son, the Eev. Thos.
Hatch, M.A., Eector of Walton-upon- Thames, the late lord and also the patron of the
church, the advowsou having generally gone M'ith the manor. The manor now belongs to
Philip Lovett, Esq.
There was in this parish a smaller manor, which in the foiu-tcenth century was luld
under Chertsey Abbey by the family of Codyngton, or De Codyugton.
Pope Alexander granted a bull confirming to the Abbey of Chertsiy a moiety of the
tithes of Sutton, but it does not appear that the appropriation was ever carried into effect.
Tlie living, however, paid a pension of 13s. 4d. to the abbey. It is a rectorj", in the
deanery of Ewell. Iu 20 Edward I. it was valued at 20 marks; aud it stands iu the
Liber Eegis at £16 8s. 4d., paying 8s. 5d. for procurations aud syuodals.
Rectors of Sutton iu aud since 1800 : —
1.— Giles Hatch, M.A. Instituted in 1767.
2.— Charles Gardener, D.D. Instituted iu 1800.
Z.— Henri) Hatch (brother of the Eev. T. Hatch, M.A.). Instituted iu 1831.
4. — John Allen Giles, M.A. Instituted in 1867.
The church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, was taken down and entirely rebuilt iu 166], at
a cost of £6,000. A school was built in this parish in 1854, at a cost of £1,1 iO.
The church contains many fine monuments aud curious epitaphs, which Lave been
preserved from the old edifice. Among them one to the memory of " Dame Dor( tliy
Brownlowe, wife of Sir William Brownlowe, of Belton, iu the county of Lincoln, Bart.,
eldest daughter aud coheii-ess of Sir Eichard Mason, Knight and Clerk Controller of the
Green Cloth to King Charles and James II. ; and of Dame Ann his wife," who died iu
1699-1700. The monument exhibits a full-length figure of the deceased, leaning on her
VOL. III. T T
32 2 HISTORY OF SURREY.
left arm, with her thi'ee children, on a tomb. Two of the children are weeping ; the thii-d
is pointing to a glory surrounded Avith cherubim, &c., on a cm-tain. On each side is an
urn, and on an oval tablet beneath is the inscription.
Another remarkable monument represents a woman kneeling before a desk, and behind
are her three daughters. On it is this inscription : — ■
Death to he is gayne.
Here underlyetli interred tlie corps of that vertuous & religious gentlewoman and servant of God, Mrs.
Sarah Glovee, one of the daughters of Mr. Roger Owfeld, Citizen and Fishmonger of London, late Tvife of Mr.
Joseph Glover, and Rector of Sutton, by ^vhom slie had three children, viz. Roger, Elizabeth, Sarah. She died
the 10th of July, 1628, at her age of 30 yoares, in memory of whome, her said husband hath caused this monu-
ment to be erected, 24 May, An. Dom. 1629.
Below the above are the following lines : — -
This monument presents unto your view,
A woman rare, in whom all grace divine,
Faith, love, zeale, piety, in splendid hue,
With sound knowledge perfectly did shine.
Since then examples teach, learne you by this.
To mount the stepps of everlasting blisse.
There is also a handsome monument inscribed to the memory of William, Earl Talbot,
sou of the Lord Chancellor, and High Steward of the Household, who died in 1782, and
was interred here in the same vault with his mother, Cecil, daughter and heiress of
Charles Matthews, Esq., of Castlemerryck, in the county of Glamorgan. This monument
consists of a pyramid of black marble, with the armorial bearings of Talbot in white, and
the motto, "Humaiii nihil alienum." At the top is an elegant urn, depressed; below, in
white marble, are two flaming censers, placed in saltire across a crown of laiu-el.
Isaac Littlebury, the translator of Herodotus, was buried hero, and is commemorated by
a tablet. Lysons and others describe a mutilated inscription, partly in French, partly in
Latin, on the outside of a north window of the nave. The inscription is now lost, the
window referred to having been removed and a larger one fixed in its place.
Amongst the rectors of this parish may be mentioned Henry Wyche * and William
Stephens, t
* " 10 June, 1636, Henry Wyche being a Non Regent Maister of Arts in the University of Cambridge, was inducted
by Thomas Pope into the rectory of Sutton June 10th, an. Dom. 1636, after a resignation made of the same rectory by
Joseph Glover, who was much beloved of most, if not of all, and his departure lamented by most if not of all." — Parish
Rcrjister.
+ In the first leaf of the old Register is the following remarkable entry : — " 7 May 1703, Mem. that this Register of
Sutton was carried away into Lincolnshire by Mrs. Wyche, widow of Mr. Henry Wyche, Rector of this parish, and was
restored to this parish by Mr. William "VVyche, son to the said Henry, at the intercession of me 'William Stephens, now
Rector of Sutton." Mr. Stephens distinguished himself on various occasions as a political writer against the court. " In
1707 he published a Letter to the author of the Memorial of the Church of England, reflecting upon Secretary Harley and
In 1803 Bi-xiin.TOX, iu tliis parish, Avas coiistituti'il an occk'siastical distiict. Tlic
cluu-ch, clcdicateJ to All Saints, -was consecrated in 18(iG. It is in the oarly ilrooratcd
style, and was built and endowed mainly at the expense of the late Thomas Alcock, Esq..
of Kingswood "Warren.
The benefactions to the parish of Sutton have been niuncrons : —
1613. Henry Smith, liy will, £1 19s. lOd. .iniiually for tlic poor.
1774. Elizabeth Stephens, hy will, £6 annually, to be distributed amongst poor widows and housekeeper.
1782. Robert Holmes, Esq., an equal sum for the same purpose.
17S2. Elizabeth Stephens, £200 stock for cleaning and beautifying the church and chancel, and making good tho
public footpaths of the parish.
1780. Mr. William Beek, 1'200 South Sea stock, the interest nf which to be applied lo the education of si.\ poor
children of the parish, at the discretion of the rector and churchwardens.
1793. Mrs. Mary Gibson, by will, £500 3 per cent. Consolidated Bank Annuities, to be applied as follows:— £5 to
the minister of Sutton for the time being, for ever, for the preaching of a sermon on the 12th of August in every ycai ;—
£5 to be distributed that day at church amongst the poor;— £1 to the clerk of the siiid parish on that day ;— £4 to be
divided between the churchwardens on that day, on condition of their attending to tlic monument and family vault of
the Gibsons, and seeing that it is kept iu repair by the go^-ernoK and guardians of Christ's Hospital.
1823. Jlrs. Bentley, two .sums of £50 each, producing £4 Cs. 2d. annually, towards the support of the parish schools.
1829. JIi-s. Lucy Manners, the annual interest of £700 3 per cent. Consols, to be applied towards the education of
the children of the poor, at the discretion of the rector.
the Duke of Marlborough, for which he was indicted, fined 100 marcs, sentenced to stand twice in the i)illciry,
sureties for his good behaviour for 12 months. The pillory was remitted, but not till he had been taken to a pub'
at Charing Cross and seen it prepared for him."— Manxing, from Lysons's " En\-iron9," vol. i. pp. 495, 490.
THE HUNDEED OF TANDRIDGE.
PAEISHES IN THE FIRST DIVISION, VIZ. :-
BLETCHINGLEY.— CEOWHUEST.— GODSTONE.— HOENE.— LIMPSFIELD.— LINGFIELD.-
OXTED.— TANDEIDGE.
IN THE SECOND DIVISION :—
CATEEHAM.— OHELSHAM.— FAE,LET.— TATSFIELD.— TITSEY.— WAELINGHAM.—
WOLDINGHAM.
rpANDEIDGE hundred derives its appellation from a small village of the same
name, which in ancient times must have been a place of more importance than at
present, otherwise it could not have obtained such distinction as to give name to the
district. In the Doomsdaj^ Book both the manor and the hundred are called Tenrigo.
Salmon states that " the Sheriff's Tourn for this hundred was held at Undersnow, where
three ways meet, between Godstone and Oxted, at the south-eastern angle of Eooks'-nest
Park, and is now called by old people Shreeves Tuni^* The hundred of Tandridge,
Avhich forms the south-eastern angle of the county, is bounded by the hundred of
Wallington on the north, by Kent on the east, by Sussex on the south, and by the
hundreds of Reio;ate and Wotton on the west.
BLETCHINGLEY.
The small town of Bletchingley, anciently Blechyngelegh^ formerly a borough, lies near
the central range of chalk hills, in a parish of the same name. This parish contains,
according to the latest survey, 5,605 acres of land. The present parish of Home anciently
formed a part of Bletchingley, but it was constituted a distinct parish in the reign of Queen
Anne. Bletchingley is bounded on the north by Caterham and Chaldon, on the east by
Godstone, on the south by Bm-stowand Home, and on the west by Nutfield and Merstham.
The soil is calcareous in the higher part of the parish, but in the lower portion it consists
of clay. Limestone is dug here of various qualities, some being adapted for building, and
some being burnt into lime.
* See Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 289.
B LETCH I XG LEV. 3,,
At the time of the Doomsda}- survey there were two manors here, thus ck'scribed in the
record among the Linds of Richard de Tonhridge : —
" In Tandridge Hundred, Richard hohls Civcnfonc, -which Alnod hekl of King Edward.
It was then assessed at 20 hides : now at C liidcs. There arc 12 carucates of arable hind.
Two carucates and a half are in the demesne ; and twenty-three villains, and one bordar, with
9 carucates. There are nine bondmen ; and one mill, at 32d. The wood yields fifty .swine
for pannage; and twelve swine for herbage; and there are IG acres of meadow. Of these
hides, Roger holds half a hide ; and has there, in demesne, 1 carucate, with five bordars.
In Southwark are three houses {Juoja') at l-5d. ; and in London, two mansions (ma^Mra') at
lOd. In the time of King Edward the manor was valued at £11 ; afterwards at .i'G ; aTul
now at £10.
" Richard himself holds Blachingclic. ^Elfeeh, and Alwiu and Elnotli lield it of King
Edward, when it was assessed at 10 hides : now at .3 hides. The arable land amounts U)
16 carucates. The three manors are now united in one. Three carucates are in the
demesne ; and twenty Adllains, and four bordars, with n carucates. There are seven
bondmen; and 14 acres of meadow. The wood yields forty swine for pannage; and
eighteen swine for herbage. In Loudon and Southwark are seven mansions, at 5s. 'Id,
Of these 10 hides, Odin holds 2 and a half, Lemei 2 hides, and Peter 1 and a half. There
is 1 carucate in demesne ; and three ^'illaius, and two bordars, with \ carucate ; and o
acres of meadow. The whole manor, in the time of King Edward, -was valued at £13 ;
and afterwards at £8 : now that which Richard holds is valued at £12 ; and the land held
by his men at 73s. 4d.''
CiVENTONE, apparently the principal manor in the reign of AVilliam 1., has long since
become a mere appendage to the manor of Bletchingley. Lit lie or no traces of it now
remain, but its name is preserved in a brewery called Chivington, in the eastern part of
the parish. The reversion of this estate was sold by auction, in 1803, to "William Kcnrick,
Esq. The Rev. Jarvis Kenrick, of Chilham, in Kent, held it in 1809 ; and the Misses
Kcnrick, of Pendell Ilouse, are the present owners.
The Manor of Bletchingley. — This manor, twenty miles and a half in circuit, with
many other estates formerly held by Richard de Tonbridge, descended to the Clares, Earls
of Gloucester, and after the death of Earl Gilbert in 1313, as he left no issue, the family
inheritance was divided among his three sisters.* ^largarot de C'iare, the youngest of
■* "25 Edward I., 1297, on an Inquisition taken .it Bletchingly 3 July, it was found tliat Julin Ic Vcnur died seised
of a tenement held of the heirs of Gilbert de Clare, sometime Earl of Gloucester, rendering yearly a bearded arrow, value
one half-penny for all services. It is described as a capital messuage, value Is. ; 48 acres of arable land at 4d. an acre,
326 HISTORY OF SURREY.
these ladies (married first to Piers Gaveston, tlie favomite of Edward II., and afterwards
to Hugh de Audeley), obtained this manor as part of her share of the property, and her
only daughter by her second husband transferred the Blctchingiey estate by marriage to
the family of Stafford. Humphi-ey, Earl of Stafford, who came into the possession of this
manorial estate in 1422, and was created Duke of Buckingham in 23 Uenry YL, lost his
life in the seryice of that prince, at the battle of Northampton, in 14G0. Bletchingley,
with various other estates, descended to Edward Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, executed
in 1521 for treason; and though the Act of attainder subsequently passed was partly set
aside by another Act for the restoration in blood of his son and heir, Henry, Lord Stafford,
yet that nobleman did not recover the lands aud honours of his ancestors.
Sii- Nicholas Carew, of Beddington, had a grant of the manor of Bletchingley in 1-1
Henry VIII., but it reverted to the Crown on his execution and attainder in 1539. The
Iving, in 1511, settled on his late wife, Anne of Clcves, for her life, if she continued to
reside in England, the manor of Bletchingley, Avith its appurtenances, &c., of the clear value
of £12 15s. 2d. a year. Sir Thomas Cawarden, Master of the Eevels at court, obtained a
grant in reversion of this estate, on which he dwelt, being bailiff and collector of the rents,
and keeper of the parks here.* The ex-queen died in 1557, Avhen Sir Thomas came into
full possession of the fee-simple of the estate, which he held until his death in 1559. His
widow Elizabeth, who had a life interest in it, dying in 1560, William Cawarden, Esq.,
nephew and heir of Sir Thomas, had livery of the manorial estate. Shortly after he
procured a license to alienate the manor and its appurtenances to William, Lord Howard
of Effingham, who died seized of it in 1574. His son and successor, Charles, afterwards
Earl of Nottingham (celebrated for his naval triumph over the Spanish Armada), who died
in 1624, some years previously gave the Bletchingley estate to his son William, Lord
Howard, on whose death without male issue, in 1617, it came into possession of his
daughter Elizabeth, on whom he had settled it. Her uncle Charles, second Earl of
Nottingham, instituted lawsuits in order to recover the property, but he was unsuccessful.
16s. ; \\ acres of meadow at 12cl., Is. 6d. ; rents of assize, £\. 3s. 4jd. And that Jolm was his son and heir, of the age
of 23.
" 17 Edward II., 1324, this John died ; his estate heing described as a messuage in Blechingly, value jier annum 2s.
92 acres of arable land, at 8d. per acre. 26 acres of wood, the value of the underwood and pasture, 6s. 6d. 1 acre and 3
roods of meadow, value 21d. Eents of assize, 21s. 6d.— Sum £% 14s. 9d. Held of Margaret, sister and coheir of Gilbert,
late Earl of Gloucester, as of the Honour of Clare, which Honoiu' was then in the King's hands by reason of the forfeiture
of Hugh de Audeley, who had married the said Margaret, by the service of one barbed arrow, or one half-penny per
annum, and suit of court to Blechingly. William was his son and heir, aged 16. — Of this estate we know no more." —
Manning and Brat, S,xwre\j, vol. ii. p. 306 : from the Escheats, 35 Edw. I. n. 3, and 17 Edw. II. n. 58, Hot. Pip.
* During his residence here Sir Thomas Cawarden is said to have entertained Henry VIII. and his queen, Anne
Boleyn ; but there is little foundation for such report, as Cawarden did not occupy this estate until some years after the
Queen's decapitation.
BLETCIIIXaLKV. 3,7
The lieircss of Lord Iloward maiTicd Joliu ]\[or(l;uuit, ICiirl of Petcrboroug]!, and having
survived hor husband, she scttkxl this estate, in 1(H!I, on her son Ilciuy, second Earl of
Peterborough, by whom it was vested in tru:-tces for sale, under the sanction of an Act of
Parliament passed in 1G7T. It was i^urchascd by Sir Eobcrt C'laytou, Ivnt., an alderman
of London (an eminent scrivener and conveyancer), and John Morris, Esq., his partner.
The former, deeply implicated in the patriotic opposition made against the misgovernment
of Charles IL, is said to have been preserved from the fate Avhieli befell several of his
associates through the influence of Judge Jeffreys, who, in the early part of his profes-
sional career, owed to Sir Eobert his promotion to the office of Eecorder of Loudon. Other
estates were purchased jointly by the same parties, and on a division being made,
Bletchingley, with other lands in Surrey, was allotted to Sir Eobcrt. William Clayton,
nephew of the aldei-man, to wliom he bequeatlied his possessions, was created a baronet in
1732. His grandson, Sir Eobcrt Clayton, in 178S sold tlie reversion of the manor and
borough of Bletchingley to his maternal relative, John Kenrick, Esq., who, on the death of
the vendor in 1799, came into possession of the property. Mr. Ivenrick died the same year,
having given it by will to his brother, the Eev. Matthew Kenrick, LL.D., then rector of
t!ie parish, and, on his decease in 1803, it passed in the same manner to another brothei-,
tlie Eev. Jarvis Kenrick, rector of the parish thirty-five years, and who died in 1838. In
181G, however, the manor, Avith the borough, &c., was sold to Matthew Eussell, Esq.,
of Portland Place, London, and in 1835, after the decease of that gentleman, the manor,
quit-rents, &c., with great part of the town, were sold to John Perkins, Esq., for £5-40,
a tri^ ial sum when compared with its value before the Eeform Act of 1832. Tlie manor is
now held by Sir George MacLeay, of Pendell Court.
The ancient manor-house, which stood in or near what is called Brewer Street, was
pulled down by the Earl of Peterborough, mentioned above. The porter's lodge was
long since converted into a farmhouse.
The Manor of Garstox, in BLETcmNOLEY. — This inanor, which belonged to the priory
of Tandridge, was given by Henry YIIL, with other conventual estates, to John Eede, in
exchange for the manor of Oatlands.* It came into the possession of Bartholomew
Eede, who in 1-j73 sold it to Henry Hayward, or Haward; and it descended to
Sir William Haward, by whom it was sold to John Burrougli, Esq., in 1G81. After
other transfers it was purchased by Sir Joseph Jckyll, who married a sister of the
celebrated Lord Somers. He died without issue in 1738, having bequeathed to his
lady the interest of £20,000 stock for her life, and the reversion of the principal
* See account of OalLiuas, vol. ii. p. 129.
328 HISTORY OF SURREY.
to Goverument, towards the payment of tlie national debt. His real estate, after tlic
deduction of several legacies and annuities, he devised to twelve relations.
This will became the subject of proceedings in the Court of Chancery, in consequence
of which its validity was established in 1740; but a decree for the sale of the estates
was not obtained until 1749. The Garston estate* was purchased by the lady of Sir
Kenrick Clayton, father of Sir Eobert, to whom she gave it by will, and in failure of
his issue, then in fee to her daughter, Martha Clayton, who, dying unmarried in 1802,
devised it to her cousin. Sir William Clayton, Bart. Garston House is now the residence
of Edward Ellis, Esq.
There is a vague tradition that Eletchingley once possessed seven chiirches, but
there is nothing in the appearance or in the history of the place to justify such a
belief. •]■ Here was formerly a castle, which stood at the west end of the town, on the
brow of a hill, commanding an extensive prospect over Helmsdale. Aubrey says that
in 1673 the remains were visible, and he adds, "This Castle (with great Graffs) is
in a Coppice, and was heretofore a stately Fabrick, and pleasantly situated, but shews
only now one piece of wall of five foot thick." % When Mr. Bray wrote the founda-
tions only remaioed, which being then traced, a slight plan was made, and published
in the "History of Surrey." The date of its erection and the name of its founder
are alike unknown. At the time of the Doomsday survey it belonged to Eichard
de Tonbridge, Earl of Clare, in whose fiimily it continued to the ninth generation.
In 1263, whilst it was the property of Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Gloucester, it was
demolished by the Xing's forces, commanded by Prince Edward (afterwards EdAvard I.),
when he had routed the Londoners at Lewes, in Sussex. It is understood to have
been afterwards restored, and was conveyed by marriage to the Staffords, Dukes of
Buckingham. Subsequently it formed part of the settlement made by Henry YIII.
on his divorced queen, Anne of Cleves. The Howards, Earls of Nottingham, § and
* Audrey mentions this manor (which he calls Gasson) as being the place " where the Spring of the Kiver MeJway
rises, which, by so small a force as a Man's Hand, may be tiirn'd either into Medway in Kent, or the Thames ; ami half
a mile from the west side of Godstone, drives a Mill."— Sw-rc)/, vol. iii. p. 87.
+ The belief that this demesne was the retreat of Earl God\vin, after his lands in Kent liad been swallowed by the
sea, in the eleventh centnry, appears to rest upon no solid foundation.
X " Surrey," vol. iii. p. 73.
§ In periods when it was customary for provisions and other articles to be taken for the King's house by purveyors,
Bletcbingley and Home, being on the borders of the woody country below, were bound to furnish wood and coal [char-
coal ?] ; but through the interest of the second Earl of Nottingham, lord of the manor, they had been for many years
excused from the contribution ; so long, indeed, that when called upon, in the reign of James I., they were unwilling to
execute the service. In consequence of their refusal, the parishioners were summoned to appear before the Board of
Green Cloth. However, in 1616 the Lord Steward and officers of the Board gave up the arrears, amounting to one
hundred loads of wood and thirty loads of coal, on the undertaking of the parishioners to perform the required service in
future.
BLETCHIXGLEV. 329
the Mordaimts, Earls of PcterLorougli, were successively owners of the estate. At what
period it was separated from the manor is uucertain, but it was at one time the property
of a family named Cholmeley, and afterwards of the Gayusfords of C'rowhurst. It
was next held by the family of Drake, of Avhom the Eev. Ealph Drake took the name
of Brockman; and his son, James Drake-Erockmau, sold the castle, or its site rather,
in 1793, to John. Konrick, Esq., after which it belonged in succession to his brothers,
the Eev. Dr. Matthew Kenrick and the Rev. Jarvis Keurick. The estate, now known
as Castle Hill and South Paek, at present belongs to James Norris, Esq. During
some excavations made by that gentleman portions of the wall and foundations of one
of the towers hare been revealed.*
Pendell. — Pendell (or more properly Pen-dale"! Court, taking its name from pen., a
head, and dell^ a dale, is a spacious old mansion, tne property and residence of Sii' George
MacLeay, above mentioned. In the seventeenth century the Pendell estate belonged
to the family of Holmau. The mansion, which is kept in an excellent state of preser-
vation, was built by George Holman, Esq., of Godstoue, about 1624, His son, Eichard
Holman, of Pendell, died in 1664, leaving two sons, who having died M'ithout issue, the
estate devolved on Thomas Seyliard, of Penshurst in Kent, who had married their sister,
Mary Holman. His great-grand-daughter and heiress, Ami Seyliard, having died at an
early age in 1760, this estate passed to her cousin, Hester Wade Seyliard, who became
the wife of George Scullard, Esq., whom she surviA'cd : having no issue, she gave the
property to John Perkins, Esq., from whose family it passed a few years ago to the present
owner.f
Another mansion here was erected by Eichard Glyd, Esq., in 16-36 (according to
tradition), from a design of Inigo Joucs.J His son aud heir, John Glyd, dying
unmarried, this house, with 41 acres of land, was afterwards sold to Andrew Jelfe, a
mason and architect, of whose fomily it was purchased in 1803 by Joseph Seymour
Biscoe, Esq., with whom it remained for some years. It is now the residence of the
Misses Kenrick.
* Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 303.
t There is a view of the mansion at Pendell in Manning and Bray's " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 306; and in vol. iii. plate
xxvi. is a groimd-plan of a Roman hypocaust discovered in a field at a little distance north-cast of the house, iu the
summer of 1813, by some of Mr. Perkins's workmen, in grubbing up a bank. " The field," says Mr. Bray, " is not far
from the foot of the Chalk lull, called White hill, up v,-hich, and over Bansted Heath, the Roman road out of Sussex, by
Godstone, passes in its way to Woodcote ; and the fortified ground called the " Cardinal's Cap," on the point of the hill
in Caterham, overlooks this field." — Surrey, vol. iii. ; Additions, p. cxxi.
t " In the Phmiix Britannicus is a copy of verses ^\'ritten by (as he is called) the ingenious Mr. Richard Glyd, of
New College, Oxford, on ' The Narrative of the Miraculous Deliverance of Anne Greene ; who being executed at Oxford,
Dec. 14, 1650, was afterwards re\'ived by Care of the Physicians.' From the date of the building the house, the gentle-
man here mentioned must have been the son of the builder." -Maxsixg, Surrey, vol. ii. p. 308.
VOL. III. U U
330 HISTORY OF SURREY.
NoRTU Paek, some distance from the town towards Godstone, formerly belonged to
Sir William Clayton. It is now a farm.
The old mansion of Kentwaynes, or Kentwin's — sometimes called the Tan House —
was formerly a residence of the Cholmeleys, from whom it passed to the Gaynsfords, and
from them to the Drakes, whose descendant, Mr. James Drake-Brockman, sold it to the
Kenricks. The house (now a farmhouse), with part of the land, is in the parish of
Nutfield, though generally represented as in Bletchingley.
Ham is described by Manning as a large old house, with about COO acres of land, at
the south-west end of the parish, encompassed by lands belonging to other parishes.
It appears to have been the residence of the Turner family as early as the reign of
Eichard II., when Eichard Turncur was representative of the borough of Bletchingley.
John Turner, the last heir male, died in 1713 ; but the farm of Ham had been previously
sold to Thomas Budgcn, Esq., M.P. for Surrey in 1751 and 1754 ; and it was the property
of his grandson in 1808. It was afterward purchased of the Budgen family by Mr.
King, a cousin of Mr. King, formerly of Bletchingley House. Oyer the entrance gateway
of the mansion was the following inscription : — " 1611. Non Domo Dominus, sed Domino
Domus honestanda est. I. E, T." In the upper part of the gateway was a room once
used as a chapel. The ceiling was coved, and painted with stars. It was pulled down
by the proprietor in 1843.
SxANGKAVE. — On the road from Bletchingley to Godstone, near Godstone Green, was a
considerable mansion thus designated. In 1326 Sir Eobert de Stangrave had license
for an oratorj' in his manor of Stangrave, in Bletchingley, and five years subsequently he
had a renewal of the license for two years.* In 1322 Eobert le Botiller, son of Peter le
Botiller, of Bletchingley, demised to Eobert de Stangrave, Knt., and Joan his wife, his
right in lauds in Bletchingley : ^ Sir Eobert de Stangrave died in 1361, leaving Su- John
Breton his cousin and heii-. The family of Beecher held Stangrave from 1580 to 1676,
when it came into the possession of Thomas Northey, citizen of London.
The old dwelling was taken down about 1740, and the existing edifice, now known by
the name of Ivy House, was erected by one of the Northeys, a descendant of whom,
Milicent, the wife of the Eev. John Parkhurst (of Epsom), together with her sisters, sold
the estate in 1759 to the Claytons. In 1348-9 there was another mansion in this parish
called Dateeons, or Saeeeons, then belonging to "William de Tudenham, who had a license
for his chapel therein : his license was renewed in 1354.
Bletchingley was formerly both a market and a borough town, but the market has long
Stratford, Wiucliester, la a, 64 a. + Eot. Claus. 5 Edw. III. p. 2, m, 45.
bletchixglfa: 331
been discoutinucd. Here arc two annual fairs : one is held on the lOtli of ]\ray ; llio other,
granted by Edward I. in 12So, is held on the 2nd of !Novcmbcr, and is for cattle.
The fii'st return of members from this borough to Parliament was made in 23
Edward I., 1294-5, but it lost the privilege in 1832 under the fii-st Eeform Act. The
nominal right of election was vested in the burgage-liolders resident within the borough.
In 21 James I. an attempt was made by Dr. Harris, rector of the parish, and others to
extend the elective franchise to all the inhabitants, but theii- endeavours proved unsuccess-
ful. In 1623, observes Oldfield, "it was resolved by the House [of Commons] that the
bailiif, appointed by the proprietor of the borough, has nothing to do with the election ; it
therefore follows [but the inference is a non scquitur'], that any other person may exercise
the duties of that office." * Previously to 1733 the elections took place in a large house
called the Hall, and after that date at the White Hart Inn, purchased by Sir "William
Clayton, then lord of the manor. Sir Eobert Clayton, his successor, sold the reversion of
the borough in his lifetime to the Eev. Dr. Kem-ick, from whom it was iuherited by
William Kenrick, Esq., who sold it in 1810 to Matthew Eussell, Esq., for the sum, as
recorded by Oldfield, of £60,000. j- In ancient times the number of voters was reckoned
at about one hundred and thirty ; more recently the nominal right of election was in the
holders of about ninety burgage tenures ; latterly, however, the number of voters who
actually attended the elections seldom amounted to more than ciffid or toi. In fact, it was
one of the most scandalous of all the boroughs upon record, and could scarcely be paralleled
except by Gatton, also in this county, and Old Sarum.
Members of Parliament for Bletchingley in and since 1800 : —
1796. Sir Lionel Copley, Bart. : vacated, and in February, 1797,
Benjamin Hobhouse, Esc[., was elected.
John Stein, Esq., of Carron Mills.
1802. James Milnes, Esq.; on whose decease in April, 1805,
Nicholas Wm. Ridley Colborne, Esq., was elected.
John Benn Walsh, Esq., created a Baronet June 14tli, 1804.
* See Oldfield's " Representative History of Great Britain and Ireland," vol. iv. p. COS, 2nd edit. ISlC. In that
work (and also in Manning, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 295) will be found some curious particulars relating to the election
above noticed. Dr. Harris, the then Rector of Bletchingley, was censured in the Report of the Committee of the House of
Commons : — " On which Report, being called to answer to the House, and giving no satisfaction, it was resolved that he
had comniitted several offences against their- privileges, in attempting to hinder a due election, and to alter the ancient
course of elections in the borough, and in scandalizing the proceedings and justice of the Committee ; and lie deserved the
more punishment for having abused the pulpit to his private malicious ends ; and that he should be brought to the bar,
be sharply admonished, confess his fault on his knees, and ask pardon of the House, and on the Sunday sen'night
following, in the pnlpit of his parish church, in the entrance of his sermon, again witness his fault, desiring the love of
his neighbours, and promising reformation." '•'Which judgment," the Report adds, "was executed accordingly in all
points."
t See Oldfield's " History," &c., as above.
332 HISTORY OF SURREY.
1806. JosiAS Ddpe£ Porcher, Esq., wlio accepted the Cliiltern HunclretU, and in January, 1807,
John Alexander Bannerman, Esq., was elected.
William Keneick, Esq.
1807. William Kenrick, Esq.
Thomas Heathcote, Esq., who accepted the Chiltern Hundreds, and in January, 1809,
Charles Cockerell, Esq., was elected.
1812. William Kenkick, Esq., who accepted the Cliiltem Hundreds, and in November, 1814,
John Bolland, merchant, was elected.
Sir Charles Talbot, Bart., of Chart Park ; on whose decease before he had taken his seat, in Dec, 1812,
Robert Willi.ui Newman, Esq., was elected.
1819. Matthew Rdssell, Esq., of Brancepeth Castle ; vacated for Saltash, in Cornwall, and in February, 1819,
Sir William Curtis, Bart., was elected.
George Tennyson, Esq., who accepted the Chiltern Hundreds, and in March, 1819,
The Marquis op Ticufield was elected.
1820. The Marquis of Tichfield, who accepted the Chiltern Hundreds in 1822, when
The Right Hon. Francis Leveson-Gower, commonly called Lord F. L. Gower, was elected.
Hon. Edw. Henry Edwardes.
1826. William Russell, Esq., who accepted the Chiltern Hundreds, and in May, 1827,
The Right Hon. William Lamb (afterwards Lord Melbourne) was elected : he accepted the Chiltern
Hundi'eds, and in July, 1828,
William Ewart, Esq., of the JlidiUe Temple, was elected.
1830. Charles Tennyson, Esq.
Robert William Mills, Esq., who accepted the Cliiltern Hundreds, and in February, 1831,
Sir William Horne, Knt., Solicitor General, was elected.
1831. Hon. John George Brabazon Ponsonby, who accepted the Chiltern Hundreds, and in July, 1831,
Thomas Hyde Villiers, Esq., was elected.
Charles Tennyson, Esq., vacated for Stamford, in Lincolnshire, when
The Right Hon. Henry John Viscount Palmerston was elected.
Disfi'anchised by the Reform Act in 1832.
"VYe learn from Howes' s Clirouicle (London, IGll) that in 1551 the shock of an earth-
quake was felt at Bletchingley ; also at Godstone, Titscy, Merstham, Eeigate, Croydon, and
other places in this county.
The advowson of Bletchingley anciently belonged to the Clares, Earls of Gloucester, and
it appears to have been generally held by the lords of the manor until Sir Eobert Clayton
sold it to Eichard Troward, Esq. Subsequently it became the property of Charles,
eleTenth Duke of Norfolk, after whose decease in 1815 it was purchased by — Warde,
Esq. The presentation now rests with Emmanuel College, Cambridge. This rectory, in
the deanery of Godstone and diocese of Eochester, was valued in the Taxation of Pope
Nicholas at 36 marks, and in the King's books at £19 19s. 4^d. The Eegisters, of which
there were seven in number prior to the Act passed in 1813 (52 Geo. III. cap. 146),
commence in 1538, and have few irregularities.
Amongst the incumbents were Thomas Herring, D.D.,* afterwards Archbishop of
* Thomas Herring, son of the Rev. John Herring, Rector of Walsoken, Norfolk, was born in 1693. He studied at
Jesus College, and at Corpus Christi College, Cambridge. Dr. Fleetwood, Bishop of Ely, made him his domestic chaplain,
and presented him to the U^dngs of Rettenden in Essex, and Barley in Hertfordshire. On liis presentation to the living
of Bletchingley in 1731, he vacated that of Barley, and in 1732 was installed Dean of Rochester. He was preferred to
BLErCHINGLEV. 333
Canterbury, iustituted in 1731, and Lis succcssoi', John Thomas, D.D., who became Bishop
of Eochester, instituted in January, 1737-8.*
Rectors of Bletchiuglej' in and since 1800 : — -
I.— Matthew Kcnriek, LL.D. Instituted in 1775.
2. — Javvis EcnricJc. Instituted in 1803.
3.— Wetcn/iall Sncyd. Instituted in 1889.
i.~Charlcs Fox Chaivncr, M.A. Instituted in 1841.
The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a large edifice. It has a low and massive
embattled tower, containing a peal of eight bells. Formerly the tower was siu-mounted by
a lofty spire, supposed to have contained two hundred loads of oak timber covered with
shingles. This was destroyed by lightning in IGOG : the bells, then only five in number,
were melted. The church consists of nave, with aisles, and a double chancel, that on the
south side being commonly called the Clayton Chapel. The nave is divided from the
chancel by a pointed arch, and from the south aisle by clustered pillars supporting four
pointed arches. The chancels are separated by two similar arches.
To the north of the chancels is a vestry. The font, a large and ancient octagonal stone
basin, has two quatrefoils deeply cut in each face ; it is supported by an octagonal column,
each face of which presents a deeply simk pointed arch. In the nave, near the entrance
into Ham Chapel, are the remains of a piscina. Nearly opposite, in the south wall, is a
small oaken door bearing the date of 1641, and forming the entrance to a turreted building
on the outside, within which is a circular staircase leading to the low leads of the
church.
In the south window, near the monument of Sir Eobcrt Clayton, arc the armorial
bearings of that gentleman and of his lady in painted glass.
On the north side of this chancel is an old mural tablet of black marble to the memory
of Nathanael Harris, rector from 1609 to 1625.
Between the two chancels is an altar tomb of freestone for Sir Thomas Cawardcn, over
the bishopric of Bangor in 1737, and removed to the archbishopric of Yorli in 1743 : tliere he expended a considerable
sum in repairing and beautifying the episcopal palace. During the rebellion of 1743 he took an active part in the
associations formed at York to resist the Pretender, and he addressed the Duke of Ciuuberland on his return from the
victory of Culloden. In 1747 he was translated to Canterbury. He laid out much money in repairing Croydon Palace,
which he made his constant summer residence. He printed seven single sermons. To the rebuilding Benet
College, of wliich he had been elected a feUow, he bequeathed £1,000. He died in 1767, and was buried in Croydon
Church.
* Dr. Thomas was installed Dean of Westminster in 1768, on the resignation of Dr. Zachariah Pearce, who wished
also to resign the bishopric of Eochester. This not being permitted, Dr. Thomas had to wait for the latter preferment
until the decease of Dr. Pearce, which occurred in 1774.
334 HISTORF OF SURREV.
wliicli was formerly a stone canopy. At the west end are the Cawarden arms, viz. a bow
between two i^heons, argent, and the grapples used in boarding ; on each side are two large
roses in separate panels deeply cut ; and at the base of the arch over the tomb is an
angel holding an escutcheon, on which a chevron appears.
The south chancel is wholly occupied by a most elaborate and costly monument,
erected by the first Sir Eobert Clayton, both for his own commemoration and that of his
lady.
"Whole-length figures of Sir Eobert and his lady, in white marble, stand on the project-
ing base of the monument. Su- Eobert is in his robes as Lord Mayor of London, Avith the
ensigns of his office. Under his figure are the words, " Non vultus instantis tyranni : "
under his lady's, " Quando ullam invenient parem ? " Between these statues is a curtain
of white marble thus inscribed : —
Here rests wliat was mortal of Sir Robert Clayton, Knt., in the year mdclxxx Lord Mayor, and at Ids
deatli Alderman and Father of the City of London, and near sxx years was one of its Representatives in Parlia-
ment. By the justest methods and skiU. in business he acquired an ample fortune, wliich he applied to the
noblest purposes, and more than once ventured it all for his country. He fixed the seat of his family at Marden,
where he hath left a remarkable instance of the politeness of his genius ; and how far Nature may be improved
by Art. His relations, his friends, the Hospital of St. Thomas in Southwark (of which he was President),
Chi-ist-Church Ho.spital, and the Workhouse in London, were large sharers of his boimty. He lived in the
Communion of the Church of England, and in the most perfect charity with all good men, however divided
amongst themselves in opinions. The welfare of his country was the only aim of his public actions ; and in all
the various efforts that were made in his time for preserving its Constitution he bore a great share, and acted
therein with a constancy of mind which no pro.spect of danger could ever shake. It is but just [that] the memory
of so good and so great a man should be transmitted to after-ages, since in all the private and public transactions
of his life he has left so bright a pattern to imitate, but hardly to be outdone. He was born at Bulwick in
Northamptonshire the sxixth day of September, anno Dom. mdcxxix, and died at Marden the x-\-i day of July,
MDCcvii. — GuUelmus Clayton Nepos et Hteres D.D.
On the floor, near the entrance to the chancel, is a slab with the following inscription : —
In the vault beneath are interred the remains of John Thomas, LL.D., Bishop of Rochester, Dean of
Westminster, Dean of the most hon'^" Order of the Bath. He departed this life August 22d, 1793, aged 82 years.
Amongst several mural monuments in what is called the north transept, or Ham
Chapel, is one, on the east side, of an emblematic character, executed by J. Bacon, jun.,
to the memory of Sir William Bensley, Bart., an officer in the royal navy, and after-
wards a director of the East India Company.
He died IVth December, 1809, aged 73. He married 12th June, 1798, Mary, sister of Joseph Seymour
Biscoe, Esq., of this parish, and daughter of Vincent John Biscoe, Esq., by Lady Mary Seymour, only daughter
of Edward, 8th Duke of Somerset.
On the floor in this chapel are inlaid brasses in memory of "Thomas Warde and Jone
his wife, the which Thomas decessyd an" dom' mv^xlj, o' who's soules J'hu have marcy.
Amen." The former is represented in a long gown, and his wife in the dress of the
CROWIIURST. 335
time : above arc tv,-o groups of six hoys, and six girls iu each. There are also tablets
to the memory of the Kenricks and Northoj-s, of this parish. This church Avas restored
iu 1S5C— 72, at a cost of £2,200.
Notwithstanding the -wealth and great extent of propcrt}' in Blelehingley parish, the
benefoctions to the poor have been only of slight amount : —
1633. William Evans, by -will, £100, with which lands called Korrys were purchased, the pvoduce of which was
" to set poor people to work." [These lands now let for £10 14s. per annum.]
1641. Henry Smith, by deed of settlement, a bullock, annually on St. Thomas's day, to bo distributed amonyst
such poor persons as do not receive constant parochial relief.
1699. The Rev. Dr. Hampton, by will, an annuity of £1 6s. 8d., charged on Barr Fields, for liring for the poor
people in the almshouses.
In 1G40 John Evans, gent., of Loudon, founded a Free School for twenty poor boys of
this borough, under the dii-ection of eleven governors. lie endowed the school with
lands, to the extent of about 32 acres, in the adjoining parish of Nuffield, then let at
the rent of £20 per annum. Mr. Eostock, of Tandridge, gave a house and garden, for
the master, Avhich Mr. Serjeant Fuller, his son-in-law, endeavoured to recover, but
did not succeed. By the statutes, the master, if a clergyman, is prohibited from preaching
in any other church than Bletchingley.
Ten Almshouses were built, chiefly by the parish, in IGG8, to which Dr. Charles
Hampton, appointed rector in 107 7, added another; and by his will, as stated in the
list of benefactions above, he left £1 Gs. 8d. a year, to be distributed in fagots amongst
the inmates. Four Almshouses for widows have also been erected by the late Jliss
C. M. Fcrkins.
At a short distance from the church is a Union (Godstone) "Workhouse for the poor of
foiu-teen parishes in this county, viz. : — Bletchingley, Catcrham, Chelsham, Crowhurst,
Farley, Godstone, Home, Limpsfield, Oxted, Tandridge, Tatsfield, Titsey, Warlingham,
and Woldingham. The Union-house, built upon the Clerk's Field, is, iu its construction
and regulations, in accordance with the directions of the Poor Law Commissioners. In
1853 new Board Schools were built here, at a cost of £600.
CROWHURST.
This parish lies entirely in the deep clay, adjoining to Godstone, Tandridge, and Oxted
on the north, to Limpsfield on the east, to Lingfield on the south, and to Bletchingley on
the west. The South Eastern EaUway runs for some distance on its northern edge ; but
the nearest stations are those of Godstone on the east, and Edenbridge, in Kent. The
Godstone station is, however, more than two miles from the town of that name.
336 HISTORY OF SURREY.
This parish, as its name indicates, was in former times extensively wooded. The
number of acres estimated and tithable is 2,081, much of which is poor, but on some
of the land good wheat is produced. Here are several substantial farmhouses, including
Crowhurst Place, formerly the seat of the Gaynsfords ; a house near the church, once
the residence of the Angell family ; * Chellows, in the occupation of Mr. Thomas Pitkin ;
and the Moat House, belonging to Mr. Henry Kelsey.
In former times it was customary to appoint a constable for Crowhurst at the "Sheriff's
Tourn."
No notice of Crowhurst is to be found in the Doomsday Book, the land in this parish
having probably belonged to the extensive manors of Oxted, Tandridge, or Limpsfield,
at the time of the Norman survey. In the early part of the foiirteenth century Crowhurst
formed a distinct manor, in the tenure of Eobert de Stangrave, who held an estate called
Stangrave, in the parish of Bletchingley ; and in 31 Edward I. he obtained a grant of free-
warren for his lands there, and at this place. In 1338 Eobert de Stangrave (probably the
son of the preceding) levied a fine, and granted the manor of Crowhurst, with the rents
and services of all the tenants, &c., to John Gaynsford, and Margery his wife.f In 20
Edward III. John de Home granted to Gaynsford the rents and services of John At Grove,
seized of a manor in the parish called At Grove, which in the reign of Henry YL, after having
passed thi'ough several hands, was conveyed to John Gaynsford, a descendant from John above
mentioned. The manors of Crowhurst and At Grove then became united, or rather, the latter
was absorbed by the former. J John Gaynsford, son of the purchaser of At Grove, died in
1450, and was interred at CrowhiU'st. Hie son and heir. Sir John Gaynsford, Knt., M.P. for
this county in 1467, and Sheriff four years later, married six wives, by whom he had twenty
children. Thomas, his eldest son, had a son named John, and a daughter Anne, as ajjpears
from an inquisition taken in 1554, in which it is stated that John Gaynsford the son was an
idiot, whose sister was his heir. She, however, inherited a part only of the family estates,
for the manor of Crowhm-st came into the possession of Erasmus Gaynsford, the eldest son
of Sir John by his sixth wife. Mr. Manning says, " There must have been a settlement
* Aubrey relates an idle and confused story of a spring, said to arise a little below the house of the AngeUs here,
in a grove of yew-trees within the manor of WarUngham, " on the approach of some remarkable alteration in Church or
State," and which, after running an inexplicable coxirse, disappears, and rises again at Croydon. The simple fact appears
to be that in wet seasons a bourn rises in Birch Wood, in ITarden Park, on the north side of the chalk hUls, and runs
into the valley which extends to Croydon.
t " 19 Edward III. 1346, the King assigned John de Gaynsford and John de Hardresham to enquire whether any
treasure had been found at Crowhiirst by John Rugges, of what value, and in whose possession. Orig. Exch. Eot. 18." —
Manning, Surreij, vol. iii. p. 800.
t " The manor of At Grove is now unknown, unless it is found in a farm called Blackgrove, which was sold with
Crowhurst Place to the Trustees of the Duchess of Marlborough." — Manning, Surrey, vol. ii. p. 363.
CROWHURST. 337
of this estate, witli limitation to the heirs male, as we do not find that Anne CJaynsford or
her children ever possessed it."
From this Erasmus Gaynsford, Crowhurst descended to his grandson of the same name,
who died in 1672, having some years i^reviously settled this and most of his estates on
his only surviving son John, on his marriage 'with Anne Gape. The issue of this union
was one daughter, Elizabeth ; and John Gaynsford, having taken a second wife, had by
her two sons and a daughter, Mirabella. The sons died childless, Avhcn a legal contest
took place between the two daughters, ultimately decided in favour of Elizabeth, the
offspring of the first wife, who had married Henry Christmas. The only son of Henry
and Elizabeth having died without issue, his sister, Mary Christmas, obtained possession
of this estate. In 1720 she entered into an agreement to sell the manor of Crowhurst to
Edward Gibbon, Esq., a South Sea director; but before the conveyance was completed
the financial speculations in which he was concerned failed, and Mr. Gibbon's estates,
with those of other directors, were vested in trustees for the benefit of their creditors.
However, Mary Christmas (then married to Thomas Bates), having made her claim, the
purchase money was paid in 1722, and this manor was conveyed to Sir John Eyles and
others, trustees (under an Act of Parliament) of the estates of the directors, who in 172-i
sold it to the Duchess of Marlborough, and she settled it as a part of the endowment of
the house for the widows of officers in the army which she had erected at St. All)ans.*
The Manor of Newlands. — Of the manor, or reputed manor, of Newlands, said to lie
in Crowhurst, Tancbidge, Lingfield, &c., little appears to be known. In 1316, Eoger, son
of Gilbert de Eugge, of Crowhurst, granted a messuage and certain lands in that parish to
John de Neuman de la Sole, and Beatrix his wife, for their lives, the reversion to Eichard
de Pympe, and Margaret his wife. This grant was confirmed by John, the son of Eoger.
In 1332 John de Neuman granted to John Gaynsford all his lauds, rents, &c., in Crow-
hurst, "Walkensted, and Lingfield ; and in the next year John, son of Eoger de Eugge,
granted to John Gaynsford, and Margaret his wife, the reversion thereof. In 1337 there
was a further confii-mation by Simon, another son of Eoger. These notices are supposed
to refer to the manor of Newlands. In the time of Henry YI. that manor appears to have
been in possession of "William de Newdigate, who left it to Leticc, his wife (afterwards the
wife of George Danyell, of Eickmansworth, Herts), for her life, and after her death to
John de Newdigate, his brother (or son), which John in 1458 granted his reversion to
James, his brother. This right was acknowledged by the aforesaid George Danyell, and
Letice his wife, and they in 1469 demised the manor to James Newdigate, of London,
* Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. pp. 362 — 5.
VOL. III. X X
338 HISTORY OF SURREY.
grocer, clnring tlie life of Letice, ou his paying to them yearly, in their manor of Woodwyk,
Herts, 10 marks sterling. After numerous transfers, on an inquisition ou a commission
of idiotcy taken at Southwark in 1554, it was found that Jolm Ga5msford, an idiot, aged
eighteen, son and heir of Thomas Gaynsford, Esq., Avas possessed of this manor, and of
lands called Dairelonds and Motelonds, &c., in Tandridge and Godstoue, held of the manor
of Godstone, Anne being his sister and heu-, of the age of fifteen. In 1G08, or IGIO,
Thomas Thorp died seized of lands and tenements called Newlands, in Tandridge, held of
Sir Thomas Hoskyns as of his manor of Okested, leaving a sou and heii-, Eichard.*
The Manor of Ciiellows. — This manor extends into the parishes of Liugfield and
Limpsfield, but the manor-house is in CroAvhurst. It belonged to the flmiily of Gaynsford, f
and from John Gaynsford, who held it in 13G0, it descended to Sir John Gaynsford,
previously mentioned as the father of a numerous progeny by six wives. "When the family
estates were divided after the death of liis idiot grandson, John Gaynsford, the manor of
Chellows, or Chellwys, was assigned as the share of his sister Anne, who married William
Forster, Esq., and it was released to her by her kinsman, Erasmus Gaynsford, in 15G0.
She died in 1591, and her son and heir, Sir William Forster, Knt., in 1G12 sold this
manorial estate to John Hatcher, of Newdigate, who in the next year alienated it to John
Coui'thopp, Esq., of Liugfield. After passing through various hands it became the
property of James Donovan, Esq., who died in 1831. The house is now in the occupation
of Mr. Thomas Pitkin.
There was a family named Angell settled at Crowhurst before 1G15, to which belonged
John Angell, Esq., Caterer to James I., Charles I., and Charles II., and Chief Porter at
Windsor Castle, who died in 1G75 : by his wife Elizabeth, daughter of Sii- Eobert Edolph,
of Kent, he had twenty children, of whom six sons and thi'ee daughters survived him. J
In 1785 a gentleman named Angell died at Stockwell, having left a very singular will.
It includes a bequest of part of his property to such person or persons as could produce
sufficient evidence of descent from an ancestor of Mr. Angell who lived in the reign of
Henry VI. : hence has ensued abundance of litigation, greatly to the profit of the retainers
of the law. Among the claimants were persons who endeavoured to prove themselves
descended from some one of the twenty childi-en of John Angell of Crowhurst. They who,
* Manning, " Surrey," vol. iii. pp. 336, 367, and 379.
t In an inscription on tlie tomb of Erasmus Gaynsford, Esq., of Crowhurst Place, in the cemetery helongiDg to the
parish church, he is styled " the eldest descendant of that familie, residing there long before the Norman Conquest."
Mr. Manning observes, relative to this statement of the antiquity of the family, that if it be correct, the residence must
have been at Chellows, which manor, as well as that of Blockfield, in the parish of Liugfield, the Gaynsfords held iu the
time of Edward III., but how much earlier is not known. (" Surrey," vol. ii. p. 362.)
X See epitaph in Crowhurst Church.
CROWHCRST. 339
throngli females, were more recently related to the late Mr. Angcll of Stockwell, oLtaiued
possession of the property "without any probability, as it appeared, of being further
disturbed. About thirty years ago, however, a person of the name of Angell, in humble
life, established his claim to the contested property of an innncnse amount. The estate
of the Angclls at Crowhurst had been many years in the possession of the late George
Eush, Esq., of Elscnham Ilall, Essex, formerly a vinegar maker at Lambeth, and it did
not appear that his right therein "was affected by the ne"w claim to other portions of the
Angell property.
Ceo"\vh:ukst Place. — Cro-ndiurst Place, mentioned above as the ancient scat of the
Gaynsfords, stands nearly a mile south from the church. The house is partly of timber,
in panels, other portions having been bricked up, and is chiefly covered "v\'ith Horsham
slate. Much of the "wall by "which it was formerly surrounded remains, and the moat by
■which it "was also encompassed is still entii-e. It "was long ago converted into a farmhouse.
The entrance is by a porch, but not apparently the original one. On the door is a
circular iron plate, "with a ring attached, by "which the latch is opened. This plate, orna-
mented "with open "work, had formerly under it a piece of red morocco leather, a relic cf
the costly style in which the house had been fitted up.
The mansion chiefly consisted, so far as may be inferred from the present state of the
building, of a large hall reaching up to the roof, a small parlour on the left side, and a
large Avaiuscoted parlour, "with curiously carved panels, on the right. Arouud the small
parlour, about 1-1 feet square, and now modernised as a family sitting-room, were formerly
several shields of arms painted on small boards, among them being those of France and
England impaling Anne of Cleves, or Catherine of Arragon ; and also the arms of Louvaine,
Warren, Clare, &c.
The large parloiu- must have been originally a splendid apartment, as the following
extract will show : — " The cornice round the great parlour is of open-work, in which arc
the initials of the name of Gaynsford, in modern Gothic letters, with the grapples (a device
of the family) running round the room ; behind the open-work of the cornice is a crimson-
coloui-ed ground ; the ceiling consists of fluted girders and joists, which have been painted
blue, studded with metal stars gilt." *
Much of this costly decoration may still be traced. Over the hall, now appropriated as
a kitchen, a floor has been constructed, and chambers made above. Against the wall are
some shields of arms painted on small boards, as formerly in the little parlour. In the
window were tlrree shields of painted glass (two of which remain), viz. : —
* Maiming and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. \i. 3C3.
340 HISTORY OF SURREY.
1. Anj. a chev. yu. Letween three greyhounds ml. collared arg. for Gaynsford ; Lelow which is a cross
saltire gu. within a bordure, sab. powdered with pellets or, both impaling gu. a chev. arg. between three birds
standing arg. 2. Gu. a fess erm. charged with an annulet sah. between three martlets or, impaling Gaynsford
as before. 3. A grapple double-fluted or, on a white ground, the cable coUed up.
The original timber roof of tlie mansion, elegantly formed and remarkably substantial,
is in a perfect state, and apparently capable of enduring for centuries.
Henry VIII. is understood to have repeatedly visited Crowhurst Place in his way to
A imp, Boleyn, at Hever Castle, four miles distant. The memory of his visits is preserved
by a thick double yew hedge in the garden, the planting of which has been idly assigned
by tradition to the royal hand. In the farmyard is a barn of extraordinary magnitude
and strength, covered with Horsham slate.
The Moat House, a handsome farm residence about half a mile from Crowhurst Place,
is remarkable as standing in the three parishes of Tandiidge, Crowhurst, and Lingfield.
It is the property of Mr. Henry Kelsey, whose family purchased it from the executors
of the late T. Lucas, Esq., in 1842.
The rectory of Crowhurst was vested in the prior and convent of Tandridge before 1304.
In 1537-8 the rectory was granted by Henry VIII. to John Eede (a minor in the
guardianship of Lord Cromwell), with that of Tandi-idge, and various other livings
and estates, in Surrey and other counties, in exchange for Otelands, in Weybridge.
John, the son of this John Eede, sold it, in 1576, to Eichard Bostock, Esq., by whom it
was transferred, in 1577, to Edwai'd Johnson, who soon afterwards sold it to Francis
"Wallys. It afterwards came into the family of the Angells, and subsequently into that
of the Eushes, of Elsenham Hall, Essex. The living is now a vicarage, in the gift of the
Earl of Cottenham, who is also lord of the manor, and who derives from it his second title
of Viscount Crowhm-st. The Eegisters of baptisms and burials commence in 15G7 ; those
of marriages in 1573.
Vicars in and since 1800 : —
1. — William 3I'Kenstrey, M.A. Instituted in 1790.
2.—Rohert Fitsherlert Fuller, M.A. Instituted in 1819.
3. — James Haldane Steivart, jun., M.A. Instituted in 1850.
4. — George Whechvright, of King's College, London. Instituted in 1859.
5. — Lionel Oliver Bigg, M.A. Instituted in 1876.
The church, dedicated to St. George, is a smaU structure, in the deanery of Ewell.
It was valued at 100s. under Edward I. It consists of nave, chancel, and a small south
aisle, the length of the former. At the west end is a wooden tower with three bells,
having a slender spire of the same material.
CRO WHURST. 341
The cast window is iu the poiuted form, and composed of tlu'cc hirge trefoil-headed
lights, and six smaller ones and a qnatrcfoil above, with considerable remains of painted
glass. In the centre are the armorial bearings of James Donovan, Esq., of Chellows Park,
with the motto, " Adjuvante Deo iu Hostcs."
In the north window of the chancel are some imperfect remains of the Gaynsford arms,
with other portions of painted glass. The pulpit, with its sounding-board, is hexagonal,
and painted iu imitation of wainscot.
The font is a large octagonal stone basin of coarse workmanship, supported by a
central column, and a smaller one at each corner. This church was restored iu 1S51, at
a cost of £350.
On the north side of the chancel is an altar tomb, oruameuted with blank shields
in front, with a whole-length figui-e in brass, and the following inscription : —
^ic jattt Joh'ts (Sitjjncsforl) senior, glrmijcr, qnt ubiit -vlx" iic men' Julij anno 5'ni mill'mo cccc-
flttinipisscssimo, tujus a'i'e p'pw"tttr ^ftt0, ^mctt.
Corresponding with this memorial of the Gaynsfords, on the opposite side of the chancel,
is another altar tomb "under a semicircular arch in the wall; the border of which is
ornamented with various sculptural devices ; such as, a grapple with a cable twisted
around it, as in the window in Crowhurst Place, a branch of oak with acorns, a single
oak-leaf, &c. In the centre are two grapples, their flukes set against each other, iu
one the fluke being double." On the covering slab of this tomb is a whole-length
figure in brass of a man iu armour, with his sword and spurs, his feet resting on a
buck, and his head uncovered. On a brass plate is the following inscription : —
^ic jactt Joh'ts (Sajjiusfori annifl. tt 3^nn;t ax. tj' filia glic'i cHalickcrst, q'i quiitin c^oli'ca obiit i' f csto
Iranslac'o is cS'rt "(Eliomc inartiiis \\" ^'ui ^V'cccc° g.v. q"r ai' aba (j'pirict'r Jl's-
In front of this tomb are tkree shields of arms, viz : —
A clievTon between tliree greyhounds for Gaynsford. 2. Quarterly one and four the same as before ; two
and three a cross saltire. 3. A chevron between three birds, being the same as are in the window iu Crowhurst
Place."
Adjoining this monument, under an obtuse arch westward, is another altar tomb
ornamented with quatrefoils ; but it bears neither arms nor inscription.
On a decayed gravestone in the south aisle are three shields of arms, with tliis
inscription on a brass plate : —
^ic jatct Jlnnc (SaDiusfot!) nupcr oxor ^ohannis ©asnrsforli ic CroUihurst iu iL'om. cSuvrnj avmig. fili.i
^lio. dffitus militis Jl'ni 'Eakcr [JIacvc] tujus aninu propicictur ^tus, glmcn.
Under an achievement against the north wall of the church : —
342 HISTORY OF SURREY.
In memory of Nicholas Gaynesford, of Crowhiirst Place in the county of Surrey, Gent, (who marrie 1
Margaret, daughter and heir of William Butler, in Northamptonsh. Esq.). He departed this life January the
25th, anno Domini 1705, aged near 80 years.
Beneath is an inscrii)tion for "Mrs. Margaret Gaynesford, late wife to Mcljolas
Gaynesford, Gent.," who died in 1G91.
In the floor of the chancel, on the south side of the altar, is an object of some curiosity :
embossed on a cast-iron plate are the figures of two boys in one small square ; over them,
"W. E. ; in another square, two girls kneeling ; in the middle, a figure in a winding-sheet ;
and towards the uj^pcr end is this inscription: —
F.
HER : LIETH : ANKE LORST*
R : DAUGHTER : AND
HEYR : TO THOMAS :
GAYNESFORD : ESQUIER
DECEASED : XVIII : OF :
JANUARII : 1591 : LEAVING
BEHIND : HER : II : SONS :
AND : V : DAUGHTERS.
Several other memorials of the Gaynsfords and their connections have been either
partially or wholly lost, and some yet remain in the churchyard.
The monuments, achievements, inscriptions, &c., of the Angcll family are numerous.
In the chancel is a black marble tablet, with two Ionic pillars of the same material,
to the memory of Thomasine, wife of Eichard Marryott, of St. Clement Danes, Middlesex,
and daughter of John Angell, of Crowhurst, &c., who died in 1GT5. Another black
marble tablet, with white and gilt framework, a scrolled pediment, and a shield of
arms, is to the memory of Justin Angell, son of John Angell, of Crowhurst, &c., who died
in 1680. There is also a handsome white marble tablet in memory of Margaret Donovan,
wife of James Donovan, Esq., of Chellows Park, who died in 1826, and of James
Donovan, Esq., her husband, who died in 1831.
A vicarage-house was built in 1865, on ground giA^en by the Earl of Cottenham.
Near the east end of the church is a large and ancient yew-tree, measuring upwards of
10 yards in girth at the height of 6 feet from the ground. The interior being hollow,
it was fitted up with a table in the centre, and benches around. The roof, however, as
* " F, reversed," observe Maiming and Bray in a note. Beneath the inscription " are two small shields of arms.
On the one is, 1, a Lion rampant; 2, . . . .; 3, a Che\Ton between 3 Greyhounds ; 4, . . . ." — " At Baynard's in Ewhmst
there is a long cast-iron back in the chimney, with the same inscription and a duplicate, and the same mistake of reversing
the F, in Forster. Over each, on a shield supported by a Lion and a Griffin, is a Rose in chief, and under it three
Fleurs-de-lis. In the centre, between the two inscriptions, are the arms of England, and over them the date 1593.
Others, from the same cast as to the letters, have been found in the neighbourhood. This method of publishing her
claim as heir to the family of Gaynesford seems a novel one." — Surreij, vol. ii. p. 369.
GODSTOiYE. 343
it may be termed, fell in many years ago. A camiou ball, still preserved at C'roAvlmrst
Place, was found in tlic body of tbis tree.
Beueatb tbc yew-tree are two large tombs, railed in, of tlie Ivelsey family, ftirmerl}'
ofLiugfield; and fiirther to tbc east is a large tomb, also railed in, of tlie "NVicking lamily.
Tberc are also several bandsomo tombs of tbc Ilcads, Turners, &c. '
A tliir, or wake, used to be beld in tbc cbiu-cbyard on Palm Sunday. Excesses were
frequently committed on tbc occasion, tbrougb tbc sale of liipuirs, and tbc fair was
at lengtli abolisbed.
A scboolroom, witb scbool-bouse attacbed, was erected in 1SG2 by public subscription.
Tbc donations of tbis parisli appear to bavc been all in laud ; but, witb tbc exception
of Mr. Smith's, tbc dates are not preserved.
1627. Henry Smitli, Esu., from land at WoiUi, in Sussex, £i to aged poor and large laniilies, due annually, at
Jlicliaeliuas.
Thomas Sutton, Esq., from a farm called Longbridge, in Lingfield, 10s. at Christmas, for poor widows.
Nicholas Gajiiesford, Esq., from late Gatland's land, in Crowhurst, £2 at Michaelmas, for clothing the poor.
Alexander Holloway, Esq;, from a farm named Holdfast, in Edenhridge, 10s. for a charity sermon on Palm Sunday,
and 203. to the poor.
GODSTONE.
Tbis parLsb is bounded on tbe north by Caterbam and Warlingbam, on tbc east by
Tandridge, by tbc coimty of Sussex on tbc south, aud on the west by Ilornc and
Bletchingley. It extends thirteen miles from north to south, but is not more than a mile
in breadth ; and in one place it crosses tbe parish of Tandridge, dividing the northern
portion, vi'herc Avas formerly the manor of Tillingdon, from tbc remainder. Tbc soil
towards the north is calcareous, around the village of Godstonc it is sandy and gravelly,
and to tbc south of Tilburstow Ilill is deep clay.
There is a quarry in tbc chalk hill on the estate of Sir William Clayton, whence is
obtained a kind of calcareous sandstone, very durable if not exposed to alternations of
dryness and nioistiu'c, and which is therefore used with advantage in building wet docks,
&c., or ovens.*
The village of Godstonc, rather more than two miles north from tbc Godstonc station
on tbe South Eastern Eailway, is situated on the high-road between Croydon aud East
Grinstead. Tbis road passed about half a mile eastward of tbe present line, and, in conse-
quence of tbe alteration, a village has been built beside tbc new road, and westward of the
old village. An ancient road, supposed to be of Eoman origin, passes through Godstonc
* See General History, vol. i.
3+4 HISTORY OF SURREY.
from Sussex towards Croydon; hence, probably, a stream whicli crosses it is called
Stretton Brook, and one of the divisions of this parish is styled Stanstreet, or Stretton
Borough, Near the White Hart, eastward of the road from London, was a mansion called
Godstone Place, Avith the large town pond behind. The mansion was pulled down many
years ago, and a smaller house erected on its site. On the north side of Godstone Green
is a row of houses called the Bank, held of the manor of Bletchingley.
Formerly a constable for Godstone, and a headborough for South Brook and Heath
Hatch, were appointed at the " Sheriff's Touru."
Immediately in the vicinity of Godstone are several barrows, or tumuli : two small
ones on Godstone Green, in the way to Bletchingley, two in the fields on the north side
of the green, and a very large one, three miles east from Godstone, in the adjoining parish
of Oxted.
South-east of the chui'ch, at Leigh Place, an ancient seat of the Evelyns, is a steep hill
named Castle Hill, on the top of which, on the east side, arc a ditch and a bank, the remains
of a fortification.
Near the south foot of Tilburstow Hill, two miles below the village, and close to the
railway station, is a mineral spring, which, on its discovery in the last century, was
considered to be efficacious in cases of gout, bUe, constipation, &c. After enjoying a
temporary popularity it fell into disuse, but subsequently circumstances favoured its revival.
At length Eichard Troward, Esq., purchased the premises and fitted up a house over the
spring. The house, however, is now demolished, the well totally neglected, and the water
no longer accessible.*
Godstone, anciently called Wachdestede^ or Wolcnestede, is thus described in the
Doomsday Book : — " The same Earl (Eustace of Bologne) holds Wachelestede, which
Osward held of King Edward. It was then assessed at 40 hides : now at 6 hides. The
arable land amounts to 30 carucates. There are 3 carucates in demesne; and thirty-
nine villains, and two bordars, with 22 carucates. There are ten bondmen ; and one mill,
at 6s. ; and 3 acres of meadow. The wood yields one hundred swine. To this manor
belong fifteen mansions in Sudwerc and London, at 6s., and 2,000 herrings. In the time
* In the garden of a little alehouse grew a pear-tree, the fruit of which was so hard and worthless that it acquired
the name of the Iron Pear-tree. Bonwick, the landlord, who was much troubled with the gout, brewed his own beer ;
and, to avoid the trouble of fetching water from a distance, he sank a well near the pear-tree. After drinking the beer
brewed with this water, he found liimself cured of his complaint ; but, to persons not similarly afflicted, the beverage was
distasteful. Subsequently a man named Prentice, a jockey, who lived -ndth the woman to whom the house then
belonged, sent the water to London, and sold large quantities of it at the rate of sixpence a quart. After a time, however,
the man ran away ; his paramour married ; the sides of the well feU in, and the water was no more thought of until its
revival, as mentioned above. {Vide Manning and Bray, "Surrey," vol. ii. pp. 322, 323.)
GODSTOA'E. 3+5
of King Edward it was valued at £20 ; aud afterwards at £1G : now at jC20, yet it yields
28 pounds by -weight."
Among the records of the see of Eochester is the will of a Saxon named Byrhtric, and
iElfrythc his wife, in which is mentioned the bequest of Wolcnestede to Wiilfstau Ueca,
with a hatchet of three pounds ; and of 10 ploughshares, at Strcttou,* to the mynstre of
Wolnestede.l
The earliest notice of this manor after the Doomsday survey appears to be that in the
Testa de ISTevill, where it is stated that Eichard de Lucy held "Wolcnestede in ccqnlc of the
Zing, as of the honoiu- of Bologne, and that he gave half of the vill to Odo de Damartyn,
with his sister in marriage, to hold by the service of one-fourth of a knight's fee. Accord-
ing to Dugdale, De Lucy gave the other half of this vill to Eoger de St. John, as the
marriage portion of another sister.:[: The whole manor of Wolcnestede, or Godstoue,
appears to have soon become the property of the family of St. John, but under what
circumstances is uncertain. John de St. John, in 1317, died seized of a moiety of the
manor,^ held of the King in capite, and also of a tenement called Laggeham (Lagham),
held of Alicia de Dammartin by the service of a pair of gilt spurs, value 6d. The estate
descended to Eoger de St. John, who died in 1353, having previously transferred all his
right in the manors of Lagham and Marden || to Sir Nicholas de Louvaino, and Margaret
his wife, who in 1357 obtained a grant of free-warren in those manors. Lagham now is
a farm, the property of W. E. Gamul Farmer, Esq., of Nonsuch Park, in this county.
The Godstoue estate passed through female heu-s to the families of Gage and Chamber-
leync. In the rcigu of Henry VIII. it belonged to Sir David Owen, said to have been
a natural son of Owen Tudor, the grandfather of Henry VII. In 1589 the manors of
Merdenne and "Wolkamsted, alias Godstone, with the capital messuage called Leigh Place,
in Wolkamsted, were purchased for £3,100 by George Evelyn, Esq., of Wottou. This
* This place is still known l>y its ancient name, as noticed above.
t See "Textus Roffensis," edited by Tbomas Hearne, p. 110.
X See Banks's " Dormant and Extinct Baronage," vol. i. p. 173.
§ This moiety must have been -what is afterwards called the manor of Marden.
II Mr. Manning says, when the Godstone estate of Richard de Lucy was divided, Odo de Dammartin took the
north end of the parish, where Marden is situated, and St. John took Lagham, the southern part. But this must be a
mistake; for it appears from Manning's own narrative, and references to escheats in the reign of Edward II., that the
family of St. John held Lagham of the Dammartins .and their representatives, and the other part of the vill of Godstone,
which was Marden, of the King in capite. Therefore it may be concluded that in the di\-ision of the vill of God-stone
St. John took Marden, and Dammartin Lagham ; but the latter manor, or estate, was held by St. John as a tenant of
the Dammartins, and Lagham became the seat of the St. John family, some of whom were summoned to Parliament by
the title of Barons St. John de Lageham.
IMarden Park is marked in the maps as an extensive demesne, yet in Manning and Bray's "SuiTey" it has almost
escaped notice ; only among the Additions to vol. iii. p. cxliv. Sir Robert Clayton's plantations at Marden are mentioned
in an extract from the twelfth volmnc of the Archmolorjia.
VOL. III. Y T
346 HISTORY OF SURREY.
gentleman had sixteen sons, foiu- of whom at least survived him, and of these John, the
third son, was settled at Godstone. His second son, John,* obtained the honour of knight-
hood before 1637 ; but on the occurrence of the civil war he joined the opponents of the
King, and, being a member of the House of Commons, he was employed with others to
IH-esent an address to his Majesty for peace in 1642 ; but Charles excepted against Sir
John Evelyn because he had proclaimed him a traitor, which so much offended the Parlia-
ment that it was voted a refusal of the treaty. Yet the subsequent conduct of Sir John
excited the suspicions of his jealous colleagues so much that, in consequence of an iutei"-
cepted letter, he was charged with treachery and committed to prison, but he was soon
released.
The Godstone estate descended to his eldest son,t John, who in 1660 was created a
baronet. He was twice married, but had no legitimate issue. Dying in 1671, he settled
all his disposable estate on one Mary Gittings,^ the manors, lands, and tenements here
devolving on his brother, George Evelyn, in pursuance of a settlement made by his father.
The brother, George Evelyn, of Nutfield, died in 1699; and this estate was held in
succession by three of his sons, the last of whom, Edward Evelyn, finding the proj^erty
saddled with various encumbrances, procured an Act of Parliament, 7 George II., vesting
the estate in trustees for sale. It was accordingly disposed of, and the surplus of the
produce, after the payment of debts, was laid out in purchasing the estate of Hedge Court,
to be subsequently noticed. Charles Boone, Esq., became the purchaser, whose son and
heir, Daniel, married Anne, a niece of Edward Evelyn. Daniel Boone, in 1761, sold to Sir
Kenrick Clayton the manor of "Walkhamsted, his share of the tithes of Godstone, being the
North Borough and Tandridge, certain farms and lands in Godstone and Tandridge, and
the great town pond, yielding altogether a rent of nearly £600 a year. The property
descended from Sir Kenrick Clayton to his son. Sir Eobert, who gave during his life the
ponds and lands in Godstone to Mr. Grseme, his steward. Dying in 1799, he devised the
manor, with his other estates, to his cousin, Sir "William Clayton, whose great-grandson.
Sir William Clayton, is the present owner.
The advowson of the vicarage and other possessions were for some time in the hands
of the Boones, but now belong to the family of the Hoares.
Eloee, or Plowee, a reputed manor in Godstone, was held in the reign of Henry VI.
by Eichard Dene, and in 19 Elizabeth by Thomas Potter, Esq. In 1632 Sir John
* See inscription on the monument in the church.
t Or grandson. (See a coiTectecl xoecligree of the Evelyn family, in the account of Wotton, in this work.)
X See Tandridge.
GODSTOXE. 347
Elvers, Bart., with liis sou and heii-, conveyed it to George Evelyu and others, in trust tn
raise portions for his four daughters, one of whom Mr. Evelyn married. It was transferred
in 1634 to John Evelyn, of Godstone, whose son and heir. Sir John Evelyn, Bart., resided
at Flore with his mistress, Mary Gittiugs, to whom he gave it at liis death, and slu^
sold it in 1677 to Sir Eobcrt Clayton and John Morris; and it having descended
to Sir Eobcrt Clayton, who died in 1799, ho gave it to the Hon. and Eev. George
Hcm-y Xevill, brother of the second Earl of Abergavenny. Mr. Nevill married Caroline,
daughter of the Hon. Eichard "Walpole, by whom he had issue one surviving son,
Eeginald Henry. The Hon. G. II. Nevill, who died in 1844, sold the estate to Charles
Hampden Turner, Esq., of Eooksnest, retaining a life interest in it fur himself and
his sou.
The manor or reputed manor of Noebpjtii, jSTorBRiTir, or Norbright, about two
miles south of the village, was settled by Sir John Evelyn, in 1653, on the marriage
of his son with Mary Farmer. It has been some time the property of the Snow
family.
The Manors of Hedge Court and Covelikgley. — These manors, partly in the parish
of Home, belonged, early in the fourteenth century, to John de Berewyk, who died seized
of the estate in 1313. Hedge Court seems to have been held from the St. Johns, and
Coveliugley from the Clares, Earls of Gloucester. The right of inheritance devolved on
Eoger Husee, a minor, the cousin of De Berewyk; and in 1327, having attained his
majority, he had possession of the property. He was member for Surrey in two Parliaments
under Edward III., and he served in the wars with Scotland and France diu-ing his reign.
Afterwards he was summoned to Parliament as a baron, and he died in 1362, seized of
these manors and other lands and tenements in Surrey and elsewhere. His brother and
heir sold Hedge Court and Coveliugley to Hugh Craan, who resold them in 1366 to Sii'
Nicholas de Louvayne, from whom they descended to the families of Seyntcler and Gage.
The latter held this property till the death of Sir William Gage, Bart., in 1744, and he
devised his estates to trustees for sale. They were conveyed in 1747 to Edward Evelyn,
Esq., whose son and heii-, James, left two daughters, one of whom died unmarried ; the
other, to whom these manors descended, became the wife of Sir George Augustus William
Shuckbui-gh, Bart., who assumed the siu-name of Evelyn, and, dying in 1804, left a
daughter, Julia, who inherited his estates. She married in 1810 the Hon. Charles Cecil
Cope Jenkinson, afterwards Earl of Liverpool, by whom she had three daughters, and died
in 1814.
Felbridge House, at the southern extremity of the parish, in a park bounded ou the
Y Y 2
348 HISTORY OF SURREY.
soiitli by a stream called Felbridge '^ater, was the seat of James Evelyn, Esq., who in 1787
built and endowed a new chapel for the benefit of the inhabitants of the southern part of
the parish of Godstone. This gentleman, who succeeded to the estate on the death of his
father in 1751, erected the present mansion on (or near) the site of an old house called
Heath Hatch. It is now the property and seat of Charles Henry Gatty, Esq., who is
lord of the manor of Felbridge.
In 18G6 Eelb ridge was formed into an ecclesiastical parish, the living, a vicarage, being
in the gift of Mr. C. H. Gatty. The church, dedicated to St. John, was consecrated in
1865, and is in the early English style of architecture.
Maeden Park, the principal seat in Surrey of Sir W. E. Clayton, Bart., is situated in
a valley at the foot of the chalk hills, distant about one mile and a half north from the
town. The mansion was destroyed by fire in November, 1879 : it was a large and
conveniently arranged building. The park is extensive ; the house stood upwards of a
mile from its entrance. Here Evelyn is said to have wi'itten his "Diary;" here, too,
the Emperor Louis Kapoleon passed some of his years when an exile ; and here Macarday
lived for some time. In the garden is a monument, erected by Lady Clayton, with the
concurrence of her husband. Sir Eobert, the first baronet, to the memory of their friend,
Thomas Firmin, the philanthropist. Fii-min was a Unitarian, yet he lived in habits of
friendship with Archbishop Tillotson and many of the most eminent clergy. The
memorial is a marble pillar of about 8 feet in height, with an urn and flowers at the top,
and the motto, "Florescit funerc virtus." On one side of the column is a marble table
bearing a long panegyrical inscription. The monument was repaii'ed, and the inscription
renewed, by John Hastell, Esq., a former occupant of Marden.*
Leigh (or, as it is now written, Lee) Place, once a seat of the Evelyns,t is the
property of F. M. Hampden Turner, Esq., of Eooksnest, in the adjoining parish of
Tandridge.
On the south side of Tilburstow Hill is a villa called Tilbuestow Lodge, the residence
of Neill McVicar Forbes, Esq.
Advowson of the Vicarage, &c. — Reginald de Lucie gave a moiety of the church here
to the Abbey of Lesnes, in Kent, founded by Eichard de Lucie, Chief Justice of England, in
1178. The priory of Tandridge became possessed of the other moiety previously to 1304,
when a vicar was instituted. Subsequently the priory and the abbey presented alternately
to the chiu'ch until the dissolution.
* See " Life of Thomas Firiain," pp. 85—87 ; also Manning's " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 805.
t See p. 344.
GODSTONE.
3+9
Vicars of Godstouc iu and since ISOO :-
1. — Charles -Edward Do Coctlogon. Instituted iu 1794.
2. — The Rev. and Vcn. Archdeacon Charles James Iloarc, M.A. Instituted in 1821.
3. — George Tooker Hoarc^ M.A. Instituted in 18G5.
The church, dedicated to St. Nichoks, is in the archdeaconry of Southwark and
diocese of Kochester. In 20 Edward I. it was valued at 27 marks, and iu the Kiui^'s
books at £9 lis. 5id.
The buikling consists of nave, chancel, and south aisle, added in 1824. It was also
thoroughly repaii-ed and ornamented in 1839, and was again restored and further enlarged
by Sir Gilbert Scott in 1872, at a cost of £4,500.
The pulpit is of mahogany, and hexagonal iu form. The belfry is near the east end of
the chiux'h, on the south side. It contains six bells, and over it is a square tower sur-
mounted by a shingled spire. On the north side of the cliuncel arc two chapels appro-
priated to the sepulture of the Evelyn and Boone families.
The ancient stone font is massive, hexagonal in form, on a square pedestal, with
cinquefoils, roses, &c., sunk in the panels.
On the north side of the communion-table, against the east wall of the chancel, is a
handsome mural tablet, beneath which, in a vault, lie the remains of Mrs. Frances
Glanville, daughter and sole heiress of William Glanville, Esq. She was married to
William, fifth and youngest son of George Evelyn, Esq., of Nutfield, who on the occasion
took the name and arms of Glanville. By him she left one daughter at her death in 1719.
On the north side of the chancel is another mural tablet, Avith a pediment, in party-
coloured marbles, the arms and crest emblazoned, to the memory of George Eaymond
Evelyn, Esq., who died in 1770. He was the youngest son of the above William Evelyn-
Glanville, Esq., and married the Lady Jane Elizabeth Leslie,* eldest daughter of John,
eighth Earl of Eothes, by his first wife, Hannah, youngest daughter and cohcii-ess of
Matthew Howard, Esq., of Thorpe, in the county of Norfolk.
The first chapel on the north side westward from the chancel contains the chief
memorials of the Evelyns. Here is a superb black-and-white marble altar tomb, on which
are finely executed figures of Sir John Evelyn and his lady at full length — he in armour,
she in a loose gown. Against their feet are the crests of their respective families —
* This lady afterwards married Sir Lucas Pepys, Bart. ; and on tlio deatli of lier brotlier Jolin, nintli Earl of Eotlies,
■without issue, slie became Countess of Rothes. By Sir Lucas Pepys she had two sons, viz. the late Hon. Sir Charles
Leslie, Bart., of Juniper Hill, in this county, and the Hon. and Kev. Sir Henry Leslie, Bart., of tlie same phice. She
had also by Sir Lucas one daughter, Harriet (wife of the late Earl of Devon), who died in 1839.
350 HISTORY OF SURREY.
his a griffin, liors a bird -svitli its wings displayed. On tlic south side of the momiment
is this inscription : —
Hereunder resteth y° Bodyes of S' John Evelyn, Knt. (second son of John Evelyn of Godstone, Esq.
one of 7= six Clerkes of y= Chancery) and Dame Thomasin his wife, one of y= daughters and co-heirs of WiUiani
Hayncs, of Chesington in y^ county of Surrey, Esq., whom he espoused y 24th of November, 1G18; by whom
he had issue, foure sons and three daughters: George, his eldest son, borne 26th of March, 1629, and died 29th
May insuing; Jane, his eldest daughter, borne 3rd of June, 1631, married Sir AVilliam Leech, of Westram, in
Kent, Knt. ; John, Ms second son, borne 12th March, 1633, married Mary Farmer, daughter of George Farmer,
Esq. ; Thomasin, his second daughter, borne ye 19th Feb. 1635, died 1 Aprill, 1643 ; Richard, his third son,
borne 20th Aprill, 1637, died 28 October following ; Elizabeth, his thii-d daughter, borne 23 June, 1638 ; married
Edward Hales, of Boughton Malherb, in Kent, Esq. ; George Evelyn, his fourth son, borne 4th Dec. 1641.
At the east end of the monument is a large sculpture of the armorial bearings of the
Evelyn and Haynes families: — First and fom-th, a griffin, pass, and a chief; second and
third, two bars between six martlets ; impaling a fess wavy between three annulets.
In this chapel are two handsome mural tablets of white marble for other members
of the family. One of them is sui'mounted by an urn, with a wreath of flowers hanging
over it transversely, and a small whole-length female figure leaning upon the ui'n in an
attitude of erief, with these words below : — ■
Multis ille bonis flebilis occidit.
Nulli flebilior quJlm mihi.
Also the following inscription
In hoc sacello reconduutur reliquiaj Jacobi Eveltn, armigeri, nuper de Felbridge in hac Provincia el
Parochia, LL.D. Edimrdi et Julia; filii unici, ex antiqua prosapia clari, Virtute sua clarioris : Quippe w
fuit animo acer et indefessus, ingenio perspicax, eo candore ut omnes laudaret, eo pudore ut laudari erubesceret.
Per longum ^•it£B studium leges adniinistravit et studiose scn'avit ; adeo ut propter amorem erga patriam, fideli-
tatem erga regem, benevolent iam erga pauperes, pietatem erga Deum et Parentes, nunquam non laudandus est.
E. vivis excessit 11""° die Julii anno Domini 1793, et fetatis sua; 75. Geo. Aug. Gul. Shuckburgh Evelyn, Bar'%
qui unam e duabus filiam et tandem heredem, uxorem duxit, hoc quale quale est grati animi testimonium dicari
voluit.
The other tablet referred to is inscribed to the memory of Edward Evelyn, third son
of George Evelyn, Esq., of Nutfield, who died in 1751. Eormerly there were some
inscribed plates in the floor, but they have been removed into the chancel. One of
them, recording the death of Kichard Evelyn, infant son of John Evelyn, of Godstone, is
thus inscribed : —
Why should Death's voyage longe or hard appeare,
When, as this infent went it in one yeare ?
The Boone Chapel adjoins that of the Evelyns, farther to the west. Over the door
is a white marble urn, with a wreath of flowers, on a white tablet, bearing the subjoined
inscription : —
GODSTONE. 35,
In the vault, near tliis spot, lie the remains of Sarah, the wife of John Siuith, and daughter of Tliomaa
Boone, Esq. She died in 1794, in the lOtli month of lier marriage, and in the full bloom of artless youth, leaving
one infant daughter, who survived her three months and sixteen days only, and whose coffin lies deposited on
that of her mother. Few young women were ever more sincerely or more deservedly lamented ; few have left
this world with a fairer prospect of future happiness.
In tlie chapel is a wliite marble tablet to the memory (but without dates) of Charles
Boone, Esq., of Eooksnest, and Mary his -wife, widow of George Evelyn, Esq. ; of
Daniel Boone, Esq., and Anne his wife, daughter of the said George Evelyn ; and of
Frances and Anne Elizabeth Boone, daughters of the said Daniel and Anne.
Arms : — A::, a bend, or, cotised of the same, charged with three escallop-shells, gu. betw. sLv lions, ramp. or.
Motto : — " Neo dejecta, nee alata."
On another marble tablet, surmounted by similar armorial bearings, is an inscription
to the memory of Lieut.-Col. Thomas Boone, of the First Eegiment of Foot Guards, only
son of Thomas Boone, Esq., and Sarah his wife, who died in 1798.
Against the north wall of the church is a tablet to the Eev. Thomas Pakenham, Vicar
of Godstone, who died in 1675. Opposite, on the south wall, is a tablet to the memory
of the Eev. Eowland Bowcu, also Yicar of Godstone, who died in 1762, and of Christiana
his wife. Adjoining the tablet for Mr. Bowen is a brass plate in a frame, inscribed to
the memory of the Eev. Charles Edward De Coetlogon, who died in 1820, and of his
sou, Charles Frederick, who died in 1836.
Some inscribed plates of the Ilolman and Bay families, mentioned by Aubrey, have
either been lost or placed out of sight. Of Suzan Ilolman, one of the daughters of
William Bay, of London, grocer, and wife of George Ilolman, it was said that " she
was in her life-time loving to all, and pittifull to the poore ; wittness the weekly pension
shee hath given for ever to the poore of this parish." The amount of the pension is not
mentioned ; but, according to a note in Manning and Bray's " Surrey " (vol. ii. p. 336),
" the parish laid out the money thus given in purchase of laud on which they built the
poor-house, so that the poor have no benefit from it."
The vicarage-house was rebuilt, in a pleasant, well-protected situation, by the Eev.
Charles Edward De Coetlogon.
The beneflxctions to the parish of Godstone have been neither many nor great. They arc
as follows : —
1626. Henry Smith, Esc[., by deed of gift, a portion of the rents and proceeds of certain estates in Sussex, to be
armnally expended in linen and woollen for the poor. [The yearly income is uncertain : in Manning and I!raj''8
" Surrey " it is stated at £5 12s. 6d.; in 1840 it was £20 6s.]
Sir William Gardiner, Bart., from the rectorial tithes at Ewell, £3 annually, for six poor widows of Godstone.
352
HISTORY OF SURREY.
Sir John Evelyn, Knt., to keep liia vault in repair, and tlie rest to be distriljuteil amongst twelve poor persons of the
parish, £6 annually.
Mr. Thomas Davy, 20s. in money, annually, to the poor.
1709. Mr. David Maynard, of Tandridge, by will, £200 in trust, to be invested in an estate, the profits of which
to be expended in the education of so many poor children in the south part of Godstone and Taudi-idge as the trustees
may think proper. [Certain lands, called Platts and "Whitefields, in the parish of Caterham, were purchased, and the
produce has bean thus applied.]
To be given in money, the produce of lands, 15s. a year.
1825. John Cole, of Godstone, £100 in trust to the minister and churchwardens of Godstone for the time being,
to be laid out in real securities at interest, and the said interest to be paid to and divided amongst four poor widows and
foui poor widowers, on Christmas Day in every year, immediately after Divine service.
1874. St. Mary's Almshouses, for eight aged persons, with, a chapel attached, were founded by the late Mrs. Hunt,
of Wonham, in memory of her daughter.
The most distingiiislied benefactor of Godstone was Mr. James Evelyn, wlio, as
mentioned before, built and endowed a new cliapel at Felbridge; also a school for the
benefit of the southern part of the parish, some of the inhabitants of which are seven miles
or upwards from the church. Mr. Evelyn's school, built in 1783, was foimded and
endowed for the instruction of twelve poor children of Godstone, Hornc, East Grinstead,
and Worth, in reading, writing, arithmetic, &c.
New schools were built iu this parish in 1854, at a cost of £1,450.
Blindley Heath Chuech. — At Blindley Heath, between three and four miles south of
Godstone on the Lewes road, and adjoining the parish of Home, a new church was
erected in 1842. The edifice, dedicated to St. John the Evangelist, is in the early English
style of architecture. This church is subordinate to the mother church of Godstone.
It was built by subscrii^tion, at a cost of about £1,800, with the aid of a grant from
the Society for Building and Enlarging Churches and Chapels.
Schools were built in 1849, at a cost of £500.
This parish is situated on the border of the county where it adjoins Sussex. It is
bounded on the north by Bletchingley, on the east by Godstone, on the south by East
Grinstead and by Worth in Sussex, and on the west by Burstow. There is also a
detached portion of the parish called Harwardesley, westward of Burstow, lying between
that parish and Horley, and adjoining Thunderfield Common, which extends into both
those parishes. Here is a tract of land encompassed by ditches, called Thunderfield Castle,
or Home Castle, supposed by Mr. Manning to have been the site of a house once occupied,
according to tradition, by King Athelstan.
The soil in general is a stiff' clay, approaching in some places to the character of fuller's
HORNE. 353
earth, which is found in abundance in the neighbouring parish of Nut field. The land
towards the south, bordering on Copthorne Heath, is poor and gravelly. Formerly there
were many places here, the surface of which was not sufficiently firm to support the M'eight
of a horse. By superior di-ainage, however, this evil has been in a great measiu-c remedied.
Few sheep are kept, but many beasts are fattened, besides those which arc bred and reared
in the parish. According to the latest survey, Hornc includes 4,548 acres of land and
4G acres of water.
A person of the name of Kidley, who died in 1774 at the age of eighty-two, remem-
bered the time when there was no poor rate in the parish. " The first rate made was at 4d.
in the pound; at the end of the year the overseers had <£10 in hand. On the small-pox
coming into the parish it was raised to 6d., which created much murmuring. In 1794 it
had been for some years from 5s. to 6s., and even more, in the pound."
At the " Sheriff's Tourn " a constable used to be appointed for this parish ; a head-
borough for the (jlldables, a division not now recognised ; and a hcadborough for the upper
borough.* But these arrangements belong to the past.
Home is not mentioned in the Doomsday Book as being included in the manor of
Bletehingley. There was, in the reign of Edward III., a manor called Home, which
belonged to Sir John de Home, Knt., whose son John in 1347 levied a fine of this manor
to "William de Eoderham, and thi-ee years afterwards this grant was confirmed by Henry
de Home, his son and heii-. Eoderham left two daughters his coheiresses, by whom, or
their representatives, this estate was transferred to John Gaynsford in or about 1418.
" We find no further mention of this estate, which is probably that belonging to Jesus
College, Cambridge, and now called Home Court." f
In 20 Edward III. the Countess of Pembroke obtained letters-patent authorising the
foundation and endowment of a convent of the Carthusian order at Home, but it does not
appear to have been built.J
The Manor of Btsshe Court. — Bartholomew de Burghersh in 1350 died seized of
tenements called La Bysh, in Home and Hurle, consisting of a capital messuage and
200 acres of land, held of the heii- of Hugh le Despenser, then a ward of the Crown, by
the service of a quarter of a knight's fee. He served in the war in Scotland under
Edward II., and having joined the Earl of Lancaster in the insurrection against that king,
he was taken prisoner at Boroughbridge in 1321, and committed to the Tower. Eeleased
by the Queen when she came from France in 1326, he was afterwards employed both in
* Maiming and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 317. + Ihul p. 318.
t Vide Calend. Rot. Pat. p. 153; 20 Edw. III. p. 2, m. 18.
354
HISTORY OF SURREY.
a civil and military capacity by Edward III. His son and heir, the next Baron de
Burghersh, distinguishing himself in the French wars under King Edward, was made one
of the first Knights of the Garter. He left a daughter his sole heiress, who married Edward
le Despenser. This manor had probably been alienated before his death, and in 5
Kichard II. it belonged to Sir Thomas Byshe, of Burstow.*
In the reigns of Elizabeth and James I. Bysshe Court was the property of the Cole-
peppers, who appear to have had considerable estates in Sussex. Edward Bysshe, Esq., of
Smallfield Place, in Burstow, owned this estate in 1658, and it was sold about 1675 by his
son. Sir Edward Bysshe, to Thomas Turgis, Esq. Successively owned by the families of
Newland and Bulkeley, in 1788 it was sold by the trustees under the will of the latter
to John Ewart, Esq., who took down the old mansion of Bysshe Coui-t, and erected another
near the site. This estate belonged in 1808 to his grandson, John Manship Ewart, Esq.f
Subsequently it was purchased of the Ewarts, under the authority of the Court of
Chancery, for Willett Willett, Esq. The mansion, a substantial brick buUding, is situated
about twenty yards from the moat surrounding the former residence, and which now
encloses a small garden. It has been some time used as a farmhouse.
HoENE Park, consisting of 200 acres, was held in the reign of Edward III., under Hugh
de Audley (who had married a coheii-ess of the Clares, Earls of Gloucester), by John de
Wysham, by the service of one-thirtieth part of a knight's fee. He died seized of the
estate in 1334, leaving a son and heii- of the same name. It is probable that this estate is
now included in that of Bysshe Court, as there are belonguig to it two farms, called East
Park and West Park.
Harwaedeslet, supposed to have belonged to Kiag Harold, and to have been knoAvn as
Harold's Legh, is a tract of land of about 500 acres, separated, as mentioned above, from the
rest of the parish, and surrounded by the parishes of Burstow and Horley. Within this
tract is the spot named Thunderfield Castle, the traditional site of a fortified structiu-e. It
is added that a battle was fought here, when the castle was razed to the ground, and the
inmates killed. Corroborative of this tradition, it appears that a Mr. Smith, who held the
farm about fifty years ago, ia making some clearance, discovered a considerable quantity of
human bones : in repaiiing the moat at the same time, some large pieces of timber were
found, nearly black and partially charred.
Harwardesley is now a member of the manor of Bletchingley, where a constable, or
headborough, is chosen for this district.
* See the account of Biirstow. f' Manning and Bray, vol. ii. p. 319.
HORNE. 355
The manor of Eight, now uuknowu, was in the reign of Ilemy VII. hckl of the Prior
of Tandridge by a family of the name of Covert.
Home Church, dedicated to St. Mary, was a chapel-of-ease to Blctchinglcy until 1705,
when it was made a separate rectory.* The present patron is the rector.
Rectors of Ilorne in and since ISOO : —
1. — JoJin Grindai/, LL.D. Instituted in 1797.
2.—IIc>ir// Poz/ndcr, 'K.A. Instituted in IS 19.
3. — WilUam Poyndcr^ M.A. Instituted in 1859.
4. — WllUam Whcdcr Thornton^ M.A. Instituted in 18G7.
5. — Charles Hans Hamilton, B.A. Instituted in 1877.
The cliiu-ch is old, and from the thickness of its walls, which are rough-cast, it
impresses the observer with an idea of its being larger than it is found on entrance. It
consists of nave and chancel, separated by an open wooden screen painted white. The nave
is tiled, but the chancel is roofed with Horsham slate. Externally the west end of the
church is chiefly of wood. It has a low wooden tower, surmounted by a clumsy
shingled spire. In the belfry are three bells : formerly there were five, but two were
removed to Blctchinglcy. Beneath the belfry, in the south-west angle of the tower, is a
sort of closet used as a vestry. The chm-ch contains altogether about 300 sittings. The
ancient octagonal stone font is ornamented with quatrefoils, &c., within square panels, in
two of which are rude figures of angels, and, in the other six, various devices of flowers, &c.
The monument against the north wall of the chancel, described by Aubrey, and by
Manning and Bray, as of black marble, guarded by ii'on rails, with the figui-es of a man and
woman kneeling, a table between them, has not a particle of marble or of any other stone
in its construction. The framework is of Avood, carved, and painted in colours ; the pro-
tecting rails are also of wood ; and the figures, &c., with the basement moulding of the
monument, are of composition or cement, coloured. However, the monument, which
is considerably more than two hundred years old, might easily deceive the eye of an
unpractised observer. Beneath the figiu'cs is a shield, arc/, a chev. betw. three martlets,
* " The Commissioners appointed in 2 Edward VI. to take an acconnt of cliantries, &c., in Surrey, returned that in
Blechingley there was one stipendiary priest found and maintained by the parson of Blechingley, to minister within the
Cliapel of Home, being distant two miles from the Parish Church ; which was built long time past for the ease of the
parishioners, for that there be within the same Parish 360 housling people, and no more priests tliere but the Parson.
That was then incumbent of the said Chapel, and had towards his finding [maintenance] at the will and
pleasure of the same Parson, in one yearly stipend, £6 ISs. 4d. Mr. Stilemau, who was presented in 1728, bought a
house adjoining to the Churchyard, resided, and did the duty. If his successor did not follow so good an example, it will
not be -n-ondered at, when it is mentioned that he was the notorious John Kidgell." — Manking and Bray, Surrey,
vol. ii. p. ,320.
zz2
356 HISTORY OF SURREY.
sal. (for Ward). Over tliem is a shield, gu. two bars or, betw. six lozenges arc/, tkree, two,
and one (for Goodivine). The inscription follows : —
Here lyetli the body of John Goodwine, Esq. wlio departed tUa life the 30 Day of December, 1618, being
of the age of 3 score and eleven years and 3 quarters ; who married Margaret Ward, the daughter of Ninian
Ward of Cuckfield, in the County of Sussex, Esquire ; who dyed at East Grinstead the 31 day of January, 1611,
being of the age of 3 score and ten years ; and had issue 2 children, Edward and Elizabeth.
A tablet against the north wall records the memory of Thomas "Wallop, Esq., third son
of Kichard Wallop of Bugbrooke, Northamptonshire, and Mary his wife, one of the
daughters and coheiresses of Thomas Spencer, of Everton, co. Northampton, who died in
1629. Over the inscription are shields of arms with qnarterings ; under it lies a small
skeleton, with a dart in the left hand. Also against this wall are several tablets for
different members of the Searle family, settled at Home for nearly a centmy.
On a black stone, partly within the rails of the communion-table, appears the following
inscription: —
Here lyeth the body of Tihotht Stileman, B.D., and Anne his wife, rector of this Parish 34 years, and
20 years ia the Commission of the Peace. He died Feb. the 14th, 1762, aged 82 years. She died April 9th, 1738,
aged 58. On their right lyeth their son John, who died Mar. 21, 1730, aged 8. On their left lyeth their maiden
sister, Rebecca StUeman, who died Nov. 21, aged 52.
In this church are various memorials of the Hope family, of Home Court, in which a
play upon the name, in Latin as well as in English, is not forgotten. On a tablet against
the north wall : —
Kear unto this place lieth interred the body of Ralph Hope, of Home Coiu't, Gent, who departed this life
the 13th of July, anno Dom. 1681, sttatis suss 24.
Optimus heu periit ! cum nomine ; nominis hreres.
Sanguine prteclarus, clarus ab ingenio.
Artibus ingenuis, et mentis dotibus auctus,
Charus erat cunctis, charior Ule Deo.
And at the bottom of a brief inscription on a stone over his grave, in the body of the
church, are the words, " I eest ik Hope."
On another stone, over the resting-place of Mrs. Elizabeth Hope, who died in 1690, and
of her husband, Ealph Hope, who died in 1693 : —
In faith and love these two lived aU their days.
And live in Hope to live and love always.
In spe requiescimus.
In the chm-chyard are several yew-trees. The Eegisters of Home commence in 1611
for baptisms and burials, and in 1643 for marriages : the early books are defective.
LIMPSFIELD.
337
Bcnefactious :—
Henry Smith, Esq., by ileeJs of settlement in 1C25 nnd 1G41, tlie profits arising from certain lands in Sussex, to lie
distributed annually amongst tlie poor not receiving constant parochial relief. This cliarity has risen in amount, value
from £8 to £25 or £26.
An annuity of 20s. (donor unknomi), diargeable on Packmir's farm, to bo distributed amongst poor widows not
receiving constant parochial relief.
Here is a Sunday school for about tliirty or forty children ; it was originally supported
entirely by the rector, the Eev. lEeury Poynder.
Ttvo boys and one girl, children of inhabitants of Home, have the benefit of the school
at Felbridge, founded by the late James Evelyn, Esq.* A school was built here in 1854.
LIMPSFIELD.
This parish is situated on the eastern confines of the county, adjoining the parish of
Wcstcrham in Kent, and bounded on the south by Edenbridge and Crowhurst, on the
west by Oxted, and on the north by Titsey and Tatsfield. It is about eight miles in
length, by two and a half ia breadth. The soil in the northern part consists of sand and
gravel, and ia the southern part of clay.
At the " Sheriff's Toiu-n" for the hundi-ed of Tancbidge it was customary to choose a
constable for the parish of Limpsficld, and another for Langhurst.
The manor is thus described in the Doomsday Book : — " In Teni-ige Ilundi'ed, the
Abbot of BataUge holds Limenesfeld. Herald held it in the time of King Edward ; and it
was then assessed at 25 hides, but since the Abbot obtained it, no assessment has been
made. The arable land amoimts to 12 carucates. There are 5 carucates in the demesne ;
and twenty-five villains, and six bordars, with 14 carucates. There is one mill, at 2s. ;
and a Fishery ; and a Church ; and 4 acres of meadow. The wood yields one hundred
and fifty swine for pannage. There are two stone quarries, at 2s. ; three nests (or eyries)
of Hawks, in the wood ; and ten bondmen. In the time of King Edward it was valued
at £20 ; afterwards at £15 ; now at £24. To this manor belonged Bramselle, in the time
of King Edward, as the Hundred Jury testify."
This manor formed part of the original endowment of Battle Abbey, fuuuded by
William I. as a thank-offering for his victory over Harold at Hastings. In the reign of
Heni-y IV. it was taxed at £33 lis. 7|,d. The manor reverting to the Crown after the
suppression of monastic establishments, Henry VIII., in 1539, in consideration of tlie sum
of £1,007 13s. 4d., granted to Sir John Gresham, his wife, and his heirs, the manors of
* See anU, p. 352.
358
HISTORY OF SURREY.
Limpsfield and Brodliam in Oxted, with court-leet, frce-warren, &c., and a pension of 2s. a
year paid by tlie Kector of Lymnesfield. The grantee died in 1556, haYuig bequeathed
this manor, with those of Titsey and Brodham, to his eldest son William, on whose death
in 1579 Limpsfield was held in dower by his widow, Beatrice, daughter of Thomas
Guybonn, of Lynn. This estate descended to Sir Marmaduke Gresham, Bart., who died
seized of it in 1742, and by his will, dated 1741, he devised all his estates in Surrey and
Kent, certain advowsons excepted, to trustees for sale ; and they sold the whole of the
property, except the manor of Titsey, and some farms in that parish, and the advowsons of
Titsey and Limpsfield. Bourchier Cleeve, Esq., became the purchaser of the manorial
estate of Limpsfield in 1750, after whose death in 1760 it repeatedly changed owners
until 1779, when it was bought by Sir John Gresham, son of Sir Marmaduke, who thus
recovered his ancestral property. In 1804 it went in marriage with Sir John Gresham's
daughter and sole heiress, Katherine Maria, to William Leveson-Gower, Esq.,* thii-d son of
the Hon. John Leveson-Gower, an admiral in the royal navy. It is now the property of
Granville Leveson-Gower, Esq., of Titsey Place, grandson of the gentleman above named,
who succeeded to the estate on the death of his father in 1860.
HooKWOOD. — This was an old house which belonged to the Gresham family, one of
whom, Edward Gresham, sold it in 1743 to John Godfrey, Esq., who gave it by wiU to
Marmaduke Hylton ; and he bequeathed it, with his estates, in reversion, after the deaths
of his three maiden sisters, to Yincent Biscoe, Esq. The house was rebuilt by Yincent
Hylton Biscoe, Esq., son of the preceding, from whom the property was purchased in
1840 by William Leveson-Gower, Esq., and is now owned by his grandson. The house is
pleasantly situated in a small park near the church.
The family of Heath, from which is believed to have descended Eoger Heath, of
Shalford, in this county, father of Sir Kichard Heath, of East Clandon, appears to have been
settled in Limpsfield and its neighbom-hood in early times.f
Tenchlets, an old moated house, now considerably reduced in size, and occupied as a
* William Leveson-Gower, Esq., was a member of llie noble family of Gower, being gi-andson of John, first Earl
Gower, wbo by Ms third wife, Mary, widow of Anthony, Earl of Harold, and daughter and coheiress of Thomas, Earl of
Thanet, had a son, the Hon. John Leveson-Gower, the admiral above mentioned. Admiral Leveson-Gower man-ied, in
1V73, Frances, the daughter of Admiral the Hon. Edward Boscawen.
t " Robert, grandson of John Heath, was Solicitor General to King James I., Attorney General in 1 Charles I., and
Chief Justice of the Common Pleas in 7 Charles I., but was removed four years after. He was made a Judge in the
Court of King's Bench in 1640, and Chief Justice there in 1643, He married a daughter of SeyUard, of Brasted
Com-t, in Kent," — (Manning and Brat, Surrey, vol. ii. p. 395.) According to Clarendon, Sir Eobert Heath was made
Lord Chief Justice of the Court of King's Bench for the purpose of attainting the Earl of Essex, and many others then in
arms against the King. It is certain he was obnoxious to the Parliament, and that he fled into France. He died at Caen
in 1649. He was the author of " Maxims and Rules of Pleading," published in 1694.
V
LIMPSFIELD. 359
farm, was formerly the habitation of the llolmcdeu family, one of whom, Sir Thomas, was
knighted in 1G22. It was subsequently occupied by a Mr. Eauleigh, and afterwards
became the property of "William Hensmau Toulon, Esq., whose residence, called Tenchleys
Park, is on the high ground above it.
Stockendex, or Storkenden, an old house with good chimneys, at one time much
larger than at present, and now a farm of about 98 acres, was once the residence of the
family of De Stawynden, who took their name from the place, and passed afterwards to
the Holmedens. It Avas pm-chased by Henry Smith, Esq., and given to the parish of
Croydon in 1G22.
Trevekeux. — At the foot of the sand hills, on the south-eastern extremity of the
parish, is Trevereux, an ancient and respectable house, well protected by the hills on
aU other quarters, and only open to the south, over which it commands extensive views.
This property, with the lands attached, belonged to, and for nearly two centuries was the
residence of, the family of Burges, until 1817, when it was pm-chased by Mr. Cox, whose
widow now owns and occupies it.
In the centre of the village, near the church, is a house called the Manor House, which
once belonged to the ancestors of Mr. Glover, of Eeigate, and afterwards to Samuel Savage,
Esq. It was purchased by Mrs. Eugenia Stanhope, widow of Philip Stanhope, Esq., the
natural son of the Earl of Chesterfield, whose well-known "Letters to his Son" were
published by her. It is now the property of Granville Leveson-Gower, Esq.
Other residences in this village are the Bo"\ver, Pebble Hill, and Detillens, the
latter containing some fine oak panelling, a timber roof with king-post, and some chimney-
pieces of chalk-stone, temp. Henry YIII.
New Hall, an old manor-house of the Gresham family, built by William Gresham
about 1560, stood in a meadow at the north-east end of the village. It was standing in
1791, but was pulled down shortly after. Eecent excavations have been made on the site,
and some curious tiles were found with the letters W. G. and the grasshopper, the Gresham
device. Part of the garden wall still remains.
The benefice of Limpsfield is a rectory, in the archdeaconry of Southwark and diocese
of Eochester; valued, 20 Edward I., at 21 marks; in the King's books at £20 Os. 5d. ;
paying synodals 2s. Id., and procui'ations Cs. 8d. A pension of 2s. used to be paid to
the Abbot of Battle. The present patron is Granville Leveson-Gower, Esq.
Rectors of Limpsfield in and since 1800 : —
1. — Lcr/Ji HosJcins 3Iaster. Instituted in 1781.
2.— Robert 3Iayne, M.A. Instituted in 1806.
36o HISTORY OF SURREY.
^.—Thomas Waljwk, M.A. Instituted in 1841.
4. — James Ilaldane Stetvart, M.A. Instituted in 1846.
6. — Charles Baring, M.A., afterwards Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, and Bishop
of Durham. Instituted in 1855.
6. — Samuel Charlestvorth, M.A. Instituted in 1856.
7. — Edward Rhys Jones, M.A. Instituted in 1870.
The church, dedicated to St. Peter, was restored in 1872, at a cost of £1,500. It
is mainly early English, Avith perpendicular additions, and consists of tower with low
shingled spire, nave with two aisles, and two chancels. In the tower, which is separated
from the south aisle of nave by a pointed arch, is a piscina in the south wall, and in the
east is a bracket, supposed for an image. It is now used as an organ chamber. The
organ, by Hill, was the gift of Arthur Leveson-Gower, Esq. (1872). There are six bells ;
the four old ones were recast by Warner in 1877, and two new ones added. The south
aisle, originally a lean-to, is separated from the nave by three early English arches of
excellent design; the north aisle and the west window of nave are modern (1851) and
bad. The chancel has a piscina and sedile, with two windows above, opened during the
restoration, on the jambs of which are fragments of early English painting. In the south
wall, near the ground, is a low side window. The east window is a triple lancet, filled
with stained glass by Clayton and Bell ; in the wall below, behind the communion-table,
is an aumbry, and to the right a square opening, possibly a reliquary. An early English
door, immediately against the east wall, communicated formerly with the north chancel
adjoining. It is the property of the lord of the manor, and was restored in 1871. It
contains a triple-lancet window with stained glass, representing the Twelve Apostles,
erected to the memory of William Leveson-Gower ; and on the north side is a square-
headed perpendicular window, with fragments of old glass, and a shield with the arms of
Gresham. On the wall is a black marble slab to " Dame Martha Gresham, relict of Sir
Edward Gresham, Bart., daughter of John Mainard, Knt., Serjeant-at-Law, and one of the
Lords Commissioners of the Great Seal of England," who died in 1711-12. There is also
a small brass for G. Elyott, Groom of the Chamber to Queen Henrietta Maria (died 1644).
The monuments to the Biscoe and Strong families are ranged on the south wall of the
south aisle, at the west end of which is an altar tomb with recumbent efiigy of John,
thirteenth Lord Elphinstone, Governor of Madi-as and of Bombay, in his peer's robes, by
Noble. Against the outside of the west wall of nave is a monument to his uncle, the
Hon. Mountstuart Elphinstone, also Governor of Bombay, who occupied Hookwood fi-om
1846 until his death in 1859.
LIMPSFIELD. 361
The plain, square, massive stone font is supported by a stout fluted column in the
centre, and a small pillar at each corner. The pulpit is hexagonal, and of oak, and, with
the communion plate, was presented to the church by Samuel Savage, Esq., in 17GG.
Under a pew in the chancel there was found, during the restoration, a bronze tliuriblc,
or censer, of the eleventh century. It is figured in the Procccdmjs of the Society of
Antiquaries, vol. v. p. 285. In the south-west corner of the church is an old white marble
tablet representing a cm-tain fringed with gold, having the arms emblazoned, and
recording the death of Mr. Thomas Ilarrison, who died in 1718. The small brass, with
the representation of a chalice, and the resemblance of a spread fan on the top, mentioned
by Manning and Bray as at the entrance of the chancel, has disappeared.
The only monument in the churchyard claiming particular notice is a raised tomb close
to the chancel windoAV, with this inscription : —
Memorise Sacrum :
Anna, Eicardi Campion de Newton in coniitatvi Hantoniie armigeri, uxor unicii dilecta, propfc has fsacras
iEdes, proxinifeq ; quam per parietem liciiit, D'ni Edv. Gresham Equitis Aurati, ipsiusq. ; conjugi D'uic Maria;
sepulckra (quorum alteri pri^gna, alteri fuit filia per Galirielcm Wight de Broekam in com. Surria; armigenim)
depositum sub dio suum recondi voluit. Voti compos, in spe heata, resui-gendi requiescet. Nihil est ultra,
Viator, tecum : Solitudinem (ne invideas !) hanc sibi deposcit. Mors aiquat. Obiit Lond. Aug. 19, 1C79 ; a'tatis
su» 56.
Forma venusta fugax, vita-q ; fugacia dona
C';utera: perspexi dugula, nulla tuli.
In the north-cast part of the churchyard are several railcd-in burial-places for the
Biscoes, &c. ; also one, with an inscription, to the memory of the Eev. Eobert Mayne (and
of his wife and family), for thirty-four years rector of this parish, who died in 1811.
The Eegisters commence in 1539, and arc nearly perfect to the present time.
The following are the only recorded benefiictions to the poor of Limpsficld :—
1627. Henry Smith, Esq., by -nill, a rent-charge to the amount of £i annually, for the relief of the poor.
1696. John Brett, from the rent of a cottage, 5s. annually, for bread to the poor, at the discretion of oihccrs and
vestry. No payment is now received.
1710. John Wood, from a farm called Plum Park, to the poor who are not burdensome, lOs. annually, " to buy 30
Loaves of good bread, every Loaf to cost fourpence, to be distributed to 30 poor people of the Parish in the Cliurch Porch
of Limpsfield upon every Good Friday in. the forenoon."
There are ISTational Schools and an Infants' School in Limpsfield ; also a Boys' School
supported by Mr. Leveson-Gower. In 1874 a school was built on the common for girls
and infants.
LINGFIELD.
This is a very extensive parish, containing, according to a recent survey, 9,1SG acres of
land and 53 of water. It borders on the coimty of Kent, from which it is separated by the
VOL. III. 3 A
362
HISTORY OF SURREY.
river Eden, a branch of the Medway ; on the north it adjoins Crowhurst and Tandridge ;
on the east, Edenbridge and Cowden, in Kent ; on the south, East Grinstead, in Sussex ;
and Tandridge and Godstone on the west. The soil is chiefly chiy,*
Manning and Bray speak of several extensive commons in this parish : — " Eelcotc Heath,
about 600 acres; Lingfield Common, 300; Dorman's Land and Paeon's IIeath,t 500;
Simpiere's Green, 20." In reality these wastes never were so extensive as is here
represented, and many years ago they were all disposed of, in small parcels, to various
individuals. On Lingfield Common was an open chalybeate spring, reputed to possess the
same properties as the waters of Tunbridge Wells, but within the last forty years it has
been covered over by the person to whom this part of the common was allotted.
In the middle of Plaistow Street in this parish, and in the centre of four crossways,
stands a stone obelisk called St. Peter's Cross, with niches in its sides. It is understood
to have been surmounted by a cross, on the top of which was a basin, as a recipient of
holy water for the use of the church. Formerly the basin, which was of iron, was
employed at the chalybeate spring just mentioned. It was afterwards seen on the
common. St. Peter's Cross, with a pictiu-esquc old oak adjacent, forms an agreeable object
to the eye.
jManning and Bray mention a field called Chapel Field, the supposed site of a chapel
dedicated to St. Margaret ; also an adjoining field, called St. Margaret's Field : these are
not now recognised, but there is a field known by the name of Margetts Hill.
Two inconsiderable annual fairs are held here : one in Plaistow Street, on the feast of
St. Peter, to whom, and St. Paul, the church is dedicated ; the other at Dorman's Land,
on the 1st of May.
Aubrey speaks of the inhabitants of Lingfield as fond of garlands made of the little herb
called midsummer silver, which is common in the neighbourhood, but the custom is not
now remembered. The practice of appointing certain officers for the parish at the " Sherifi''s
Tourn " has also been discontinued.
* The water which runs through the meadows of Lmgfield has three branches, two of them deriving their source
from a little rivulet, or spring, on Copthorne Common, in the parish of Bmstow, one of which rims over Felcourt Heath,
in Lingfield, in a south-eastern direction from Copthorne Common, and then due north. Another runs in a north-eastern
direction over BUndley Heath, in the parish of Godstone, and joins the other branch at the bottom of Lingfield Common,
where they form a deep though narrow river called the Eden. The thii-d branch comes from Oxted, and joins it, when
the whole, passing through Edenbridge, unites mth the Medway at Penshm-st. By means of this river the meadows aU
through Lingfield are watered, and rendered highly productive wthout other manure. Sometimes, however, it overflows
its banks, and carries off the hay which it has been the means of producLag, or otherwise deteriorates its quality by an
intermixture of sand. The hay is a valuable addition to the upland farms, being, when well got in, so nutritious in
quality as to fatten a bullock without other aid. (Manning and Bray, with variations, vol. ii. p. 339.)
t Supposed to be a corruption of Beacon's Heath, as, according to tradition, a beacon formerly stood there. The
lofty and conrmanding nature of the spot favours this opinion.
LIXGFIELD.
363
iElfroJ, a Saxon duko, gave by will 7 hides of land in Lingfiold to his Avifo,
■Wcrburga, for life, and afterwards to his daughter Alhdryth and her issue, in default of
which to his nearest paternal relatives. lie also gave 1 hide at this place to Berlitsige.*
Athelfleda, wife of Xing Edgar, and mother of Edward the Martyr, gave Lingedefcld, with
G hides and the church, to the Abbey of Ilyde.t It is somewhat extraordinary that
though the manor of Lingfield, which was of considerable extent, was held by the Abbot ol'
Hyde long after the Norman Conquest, there is no notice of it in the Doomsday l?ook ;
yet the Abbot of St. Peter's, Winchester, as he is styled, is mentioned in that record among
the landowners in Surrey, as tenant under the Crown of Sandestede, in the hundi-cd of
Waletone. According to the Testa do Nevill, Robert de Manekeseye held half a knight's
fee in Lingefcld, of the Abbot of Ilyde, in the reign of Henry III. From some legal
proceedings in the time of Edward I., it appears that the abbot had the manor and church
of Lingfield, with an inn in Southwark.J Reginald de Cobham, who died in 13G2, held
this manor of the Abbot of Hyde, and it was held by other persons in 1408 and 1417.§
The advowson of the living, which the abbot had held with the manor, must have been
alienated in 9 Henry VI., when Reginald, Lord Cobham, being about to found the college of
Lingfield, a license was granted to the Abbot of Hyde to appropriate the advowson for
that pui-pose. The land of the abbot at Lingfield is mentioned in a deed dated in 1489 ;
therefore it was probably among the conventual estates at the dissolution of the
monastery.
There are in this parish the manors of Starborough (or Prinkham), Billeshurst, Padindcn
(or Puttenden), Bloxfield, Ford, Felcourt, and Sheffield Lingfield.
The manor of Felcourt may here be noticed, as having anciently belonged to the Abbey
of Hyde. After the suppression of the convent it was granted by Hemy YIII. to Sir
John Gresham, whose grandson William, in 1589, sold it to John Valentync. After
numerous transfers it was sold to the Turtons, Barts,, whose title is now extinct, and has
since passed to the Earl of Cottenham.
The Manor of Stareorough, alias Prinkham. — The mansion or castle of Starborough
is in the parish of Lingfield ; but the land belonging to the manor is partly in the parish
of Home, and partly in Edenbridge, Westerham, and Cowden, in Kent. By the custom of
this manor the freehold estates thereof are subject, on the death of the tenant, to a horiot
of the best live beast, if there be any ; and if none, to a payment of 3s. Cd. as a dead horiot ;
and the same on sale, if the freeholder sell his whole estate. The part of the manor which
* iElfr. D. Test. S.ax. ; Mamiing, vol. ii. p. 340. t Dagdalc, " Monast. Auglican.'' art. Hyde Abbey.
X Placit. cor. apml GuUleford, 7 Edward I. § Vi^h Escheat? of 35 Edward III., 9 Henry IV., and 4 Heiixy V.
3 A 2
364 HISTORY OF SURREY.
extends into Kent is subject to tlie law of gavelkind. William de Hevere, of Hevere
Castle, had a grant of free- warren in Lingefeld in 1281. His daughter and sole heiress
married Eeginald de Cobham, of the family of Cobham settled at Cowling, in Kent ; and
Eeginald, grandson of the preceding, founded the castle of Starborough in 1342. He held
an important command at the battle of Cressy, was engaged in that of Poitiers with the
Black Prince, and was a commissioner for the conclusion of the treaty of Bretigny in 1360.
This baron was one of the victims to the pestilence which ravaged this country in 1361,
and which proved fatal to many persons of distinction in Chiu-ch and State.* His grandson,
Eeginald, Lord Cobham, founder of the College of Lingfield, who died in 1446, left two
sons and four daughters, among the latter of whom Eleanor became noted as the mistress,
and afterwards the wife, of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, brother of Henry V.|
Eeginald, their eldest son, had only one child, Margaret, who became heiress of the
family estates, and married Ealph NevUl, Earl of Westmoreland : leaving no surviving issue
on her death, the inheritance devolved on her cousin Aune, daughter of Sir Thomas
Cobham. This lady was betrothed in infancy to the son and heir of Lord Mountjoy ; but
he dying before the marriage was completed, Su- Thomas Borough (a descendant of Hubert
de Burgh, Earl of Kent) obtained from Edward IV. the wardship of the heiress, and gave
her in marriage to his son, Sir Edward Boroiigh, whose son and heir, Thomas, was
summoned to Parliament among the peers of the realm in 1530. Starborough, with other
estates, was held by the descendants of that nobleman until the reign of Elizabeth. Thomas,
Lord Borough, who succeeded to the title in 1594, held various employments, civil and
military ; and in 1597, being appointed Lord Deputy of Ireland, he died there shortly
after. His only son Eobert dying while a minor in 1602, his four sisters became his
coheiresses. The shares of tlu-ee of those ladies in the manorial estate of Starborough were
purchased by Sir Thomas Eichardson, Knt., Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, afterwards
* See Sto-n-'s Chronicle, p. 418. Eegmald, Lord Cobham, married Joan, danghter of Thomas, Lord Berkley (by
Margaret, daughter of Roger, Earl of March), who brought him a portion of J2,000 in money, and the lordship of
Langley-BurreU, Wilts. After his decease that lady held Starborongh Castle with other manors for life, and died seized
thereof in 1369, her son Eeginald being then twenty-one years of age. " By her will, she bequeathed her body to be buried
in the churchyard of St. Mary Overey, Southwark, before the church-door, where the image of the Blessed Virgin sitteth
on high over that door, appointing a plain marble stone to be laid over her grave, with a cross of metal thereon, and in
the circumference these words in French to be cut : ' Vous qui per id passietz pur V alme Johane de Cobham prietz ; ' that
forthwith after her death 7,000 masses should be celebrated for her soul by the Canons of Fauconbrigge and Tanrigge;
and the 4 orders of Friers at London, for which they were to be paid .£29 Ss. 4d. ; that, upon her funeral day 12 poor
people clothed in black go\vns and hoods should carry 12 torches : to the chiirch of Lyngefeld she gave a frontore, with
the arms of Berkley and Cobham standing on white and purple ; to Eeginald her son, she bequeathed a long with a
diamond, having given him all the arms and ammunition in the wardrobe at Sterburgh."— Dugdale, Bar. ii. 68 ;
Mannixg and Brat, Surrey, vol. ii. p. 341.
t Eleanor was the unfortunate lady who, being accused of witchcraft by those who sought her husband's ruin, was
sentenced to do public penance in St. Paul's Cathedral on three -successive days, and afterwards to be imprisoned for life.
LLXGFIELD. 365
of the King's Loucli, wlio died in 1G34, and lies buried in the south iiislo of Westminster
Abbey.* He had two wives, by Ursula, the first of -whom, he left one surviving son and
foiu- daughters ; but he had no issue by Elizabeth Beaumont, his second wife, relict of Sii-
John Ashbiu-nham, Knt., who died in 1621. That lady was created Baroness Cramond in
Scotland, by letters-patent of Charles I., in 1G28; and the title was limited to Thomas
Eichardson (afterwards knighted), son of the judge by his former wife, and the heirs male of
the judge. Sir Thomas, who became a Baron of the Exchequer in Scotland, dying in 1042,
before his mother-in-law, never had the title, which, however, devolved upon his son Thomas,
called Lord Eichardson. That gentleman, who represented Norfolk in Parliament from
IGGl until his decease in 1G75, sold the property to William Saxby, Esq., who also obtained
the remaining fourth part of the manor in the year last mentioned. Successively owned
by the Saxbys, Burrows, Turtons, and Smiths, the executors of the latter disposed of it to
John Tongc, Esq., from whom it passed to Mr. F. Bamford. About 1870 the castlef
again changed hands, having been purchased by Mr. James Stocks Moon. The house
built by Sir James Burrow, and to which Sii' Thomas Turton added a dining-room and
a drawing-room, was pulled down with the exception of the latter, and a new
mansion erected by the late Mr. Tonge. A room built by Sir James Buitow within the
moat yet remains, and a court was held in it in 1842. It is usual to hold a coiu't once in
about nine years.
The Maxor of Padinden. — This manor (the name of which is variously spelt in
* Fuller, in Ms brief notice of Judge Eichardson ("Worthies," vol. ii. p. 130, edit. 1611), hints that he lived too near
Ms own time to be spoken of fully, " seeing many mil be ready to cai'p." Dart, in his " Ilistory of St. Peter's, West.
minster," explains this " by telling us that he was the Judge who, to please the faction of the time, issued an order
against the ancient custom of Wakes (generally held on a Sunday, and in the churchyard), and ordered every minister to
read it in his church. Tliis encroachment on Ecclesiastical authority was complained of by Laud, then Eishop of Bath
and Wells [afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury], who got a Certificate, signed by seventy of his ablest Clergy, of the
inoffensiveuess of those diversions ; which being reported at the Covmcil table, Eichardson was then so severely repri-
manded, that he came out com]5laining that he 'had been almost choaked with a pair of lawn sleeves." — Mansing,
Surrey, vol. ii. p. 345.
t Starborough Castle was in such a state in the time of Cliarles I. as to receive a garrison, and it was occupied by the
Parliament's forces. After the King's death the House of Commons (in 1G48-49) ordered that it should be referred to
the Committee at Derby House to take care of this castle amongst others, and to put it in such a contliiion that no use
might be made of it to the endangering the peace of the kingdom. Sir James Burrow had a rude drawing of the iclino-
graphy of Starborough Castle, and of the moat by which it was surrounded. He had also a very rude ancient map,
intended to show the general situation of the castle -svith respect to the three nearest churches, Lingfield, Edenbridge,
and Cowden. In the comer of the map was a small sketch of the elevation of the castle. It appears to have had a round
tower, with a dome, at each comer. The tlrawbridge was shomi, and also that there was a court in the centre. The
area, inclutling the moat, was 13 acres and haK a rood ; exclusively of the moat, half an acre and 2 square poles. Sir Thomas
Turton had the moat cleaned out, preser\-ing exactly its original lines ; and it " is now a fine piece of water, supplied by
a spring rising in one of the farms, about two miles distant, and brought the last tiuarter of a mile under ground by a
wide di-ain. It has a constant current, and, after supplying the house and offices, falls into the river Eden."— JIanxikg
and Brat, Sumy, voL ii. pp. 346, 347.
366 HISTORY OF SURREY.
different records) belonged, in the reign of Edward I., to u family called Padynden, or
Potyndene. John, the son of Adam de Podyndene, died in 1362, seized of this manor,
which Avas divided between his cousins and heirs. In 1477 Reginald Sand, or Sond, held
this manor, which in 1G40 belonged to Sir Gecrge Sondes, Z.B. ; from him it descended
to Lewis Watson, Earl of Eockingham, who died in 1742. His nephew, Watson, Lord
Sondes, sold the estate to Abraham Atkins, Esq., who left it to his nephew, Edwin Martin
Atkins, whose son, of the same name, was owner of the property in 1808. Since the death
of that gentleman the property has been in the hands of his trustees. By the custom of
this manor the best live beast is due for a heriot ; and if there be no live beast, a dead
heriot of 3s. 4d.
Manor of Blokesfield, or Siiovelsteode (pronounced, according to Manning and Bray,
Shosterwood). — Eoland de Acstede, or Oxted, whose family had an estate at Oxted from
the time of the Conquest till 1291, was lord of this manor, and on his death his daughters
became his coheii-esses. It afterwards belonged to the family of Gaynsford, and in 1697
William Gaynsford, Esq., died seized of the manor, leaving two daughters only. Edward
Johnson, who married one of them, purchased the share of the other daughter ; and his
grandson, William Johnson, in 1727 sold the estate to Percival Lewis and others. It was
again sold in 1764 to John Major, Esq., after\\'ards made a baronet, who had two daughters :
Anne, married to John Henniker, Esq., and Elizabeth to Henry, Duke of Chandos. Sir
John Henniker Major, son of the former, was created an Irish baron in 1800, and, dying in
1803, was succeeded by his son, the second Lord Henniker, who held this manor jointly
with the Duchess of Chandos in 1807. It was afterwards the property of Patrick Byrne,
Esq., who left it at his death to a Mrs. Gwilliam,
The manor of Foed, or La. Foed, belonged to the Gaynsfords before 1582. William
Gaynsford, who died in 1679, held Ford as well as Blokesfield, and the former of these
estates came into the possession of his son-in-law, Edward Johnson. After passing through
various hands Ford was purchased by the late Iv'orman Morris, Esq., who built a mansion
which has recently been enlarged and improved by the present owner and occiipier, Joseph
Spender Clay, Esq.
New Place was the estate of a family named Tiu-ner in the seventeenth century. In
1729 John Wicker, Esq., alienated lands in the manor of Ford to John Hopkins, and this
estate was devised by him to his cousin, John Hopkins, who died about 1754. By the
trustees of the latter it was conveyed in 1777 to Benjamin Bond Hopkins, Esq., of Pains
Hill, whose daughter and sole heii'ess married Eichard Mansell Phillips, Esq., whose family
ultimately possessed the property.
LINGFIEI.D. 367
The manor of Bkowxs is partly iu this parish, partly in Liinpshold, ami extends into
the parish of Edeubridge, iu Kent, where is situated the mansion or manor-house. This
estate anciently belonged to a family named Brown, from whom it passed in 1538, on tlio
maiTiage of John At-Lee with the daughter and heii-ess of Henry Bro^vn. It came at
leugth into the possession of Bcecher Walter, who dying intestate and without issue about
1757, the Sm-rey portion of the manorial estate descended to his eldest brother, and the
Kentish portion to his two brothers jointly, by the custom of gavelkind. They sold it to
John Boddington, Esq., on whose death it descended to his daughter, married to the Hon.
Frederick Lumley, to whom it belonged in 1808.
The Manor op Sheffield. — Sir John Dalyngrigge was lord of this manor in 1408. It
was one of the estates of Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, executed for a conspiracy against
Queen Elizabeth in 1572. The manor of Sheifield, having thus escheated to the Crown,
was granted by James I. to Thomas, Earl of Arundel. It belonged in 1808 to Thomas
Trevor, Viscount Hampden.
The manor of Billeshurst now belongs to Harvey Hughes, Esq.
A district called the Gildable, now unknown, is supposed to have been the Queen's
Woods, in which certain persons claimed estovers. " In 25 Elizabeth, Thomas Kente and
George Holmden paid money to her Majesty's surveyor within this county for their more
quiet possession of theii- customs in the woods and underwoods, on certain Commons called
Dorman's Lands, Baldyes-hill Common, Hilde Heath, and Pakin's (Paeon's, or Beacon's)
Heath, within her Majesty's Gyldable in Lyngfield. It was agreed that the said Kente,
and the lady his wife, during such time as they should inhabit and keep houses at theii- then
mansion called Apesselystowne in the Gildable in Lingfield, should have certain quantities,
and Holmdun others, whilst he lived at Battners in Lyngfield." * There is still a messuage
called Apsleytown in this parish. In 1808 it was the property and residence of Eobert
Bostock, Esq., and it descended to the nephew of that gentleman, of the same name.
DoRiiAN's Land. — In 1489 John Underhelde, sen., of Lingfield, granted to Alice
Croker, daughter of John Croker, formerly of that parish, certain lands called Newhache-
croft and Dermannyslond, " on condition that she find yearly, for ever, a wax taper of two
pounds weight before the Truiity iu the church of Lyngfield. The seal is annexed, tied
with a piece of rush, perhaps as livery of the land." f
Amongst the seats in the parish of Lingfield may be mentioned Wilderwick, the
residence of Mr. Cuthbert Geddere Fisher ; Apsley House, occupied by General James
Barr ; Chartham Park, belonging to Major Alfi-ed K. Marjary ; Faeixdoxs, to Capt,
* From information commimicatcd to Manning and Bray by the late Sir. Glover.
t Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 352.
368 HISTORY OF SURREY.
James St. Clair ; Starboeough Castle, Felcourt House, aucl Ford Manor, already
mentioned.
LiNGFiELD College.* — In 9 Henry YI. Eeginald, Lord Cobliam, obtained a license to
found a college, and convert the parish cliui'cli of Lingfield into a collegiate establishment,
endowed with lands to the value of £40 a year. He then erected, at the west end of the
churchyard, a house containing apartments for a provost, or master, six chaplains, and
certain clerks of the Carthiisian order. When Aubrey wrote this building was perfect,
but in the reign of George I. most of it was taken down, and a farmhouse built on part of
the site.t Additions were made to the original endowment in 1449 by Ann Cobham, lady
of Sterburgh, and Sir Thomas Cobham. According to Manning the collegiate seal " has
on one side St. Peter with a crosier and keys, and on the other the Virgin Mary."
The estates belonging to this foundation consisted of a collegiate church, with the
glebe, value £26; Neuland Mill and Byhall, with some lands, £3 13s. 4d. ; the manor of
Hexted, with lands called Innctts, £14 ; a garden there, with a messuage, 10s. ; another
messuage, 10s. ; a tenement and lands called Martens, £1 ; certain parcels of land. Is. ;
quit-rents and services of divers tenements of Lyngefeld, £2 2s. 2|d. ; the park of Lyng-
cfeld, called Eyllies Park, with the lands called Jordan's Land, £6 ; tenements and lands
called Calcots, in Tattersfield, £3 6s. 8d. ; an inn called the Green Dragon, in Southwark,
£3 ;-in Kent, lands called Paynters, in Westram, £1 6s. Sd. ; the manors of Pyriton and
Broke, with lands, £3; lands called Coll Aleyns, 13s. 4d. ; the manor called Squyres in
Westram, and lands adjoining, £5 17s. 8d. : quit-rents of the manor of Squyres, £2 ; laud
called Littlecote, £1 3s,; land called Forlesland, 12s.; the manor of Hoothlyght in
Lamberhurst, Kent and Sussex, with other lands in the same parts, £5 ; in all,
£79 15s. lOid. subject to deductions amounting to £4 15s. lO^d., leaving a clear
income of £75 per annum.
In 1544 Thomas Cawarden, Gentleman of the Privy Chamber to the King, obtained a
grant of the collegiate church of Lingfield, with the estate belonging to it, which he
resigned in 1547 for the purpose of having it renewed with additions, and in the reign of
Edward YI. the grant was confirmed by Act of Parliament. He was the first " Master of
the Eevels at Court," to which office he was appointed in 1546. William Cawarden,
* No account of Lingfield College was given by Dugdale, and tlie brief notice iii the last edition of the "Monasticon"
(vol. vi. p. 1469) is scarcely worth a reference.
t Aubrey says he had seen no remains of a religious house so entire. " The first story was of freestone ; above that
brick and timber. Within was a sqiiare court with a cloister round it. In the west window of the Hall was, Orate pro
bono statu John Gaynsford et fenestram. There was a convenient handsome Hall and Parlour; above the
Triest's table was the canopy of wainscot, as in Lincohi's Inn Hall. In one of the windows, Auxilium mihi semper d
Domino."
LIXGFIELD. 369
ucplie-\v aud heir of Sir Tliomas, in 15G0 had a license to alienate the manor of Lingficld,
with other estates, to "William, Lord IIoAvard of Eflinghain. This property descended to
Francis, the seventh Baron of Effingham, who settled it on his second wife. Anno Bristow ;
aud she, having survived his lordship, devised these estates by will, in 1774, to trustees for
sale. In 177G Dr. Frank Nicholls became the purchaser of the manor or College of Ling-
field, the manor of Billeshurst, the rectory, the patronage of the vicarage, all tithes, &c. ;
a capital messuage, and site of the college, Avith certain farms and lands. LLe died in
177S, and his son and heir, John Nicholls, Esq., after having disposed of part of the tithes,
sold the remainder of the rectory, the farms and lands, and the manor of Billeshurst to
the trustees of Eobert Ladbroke, Esq., in 1803.*
The benefice of Lingficld, formerly regarded as a perpetual curacy, is now a vicarage.
Curates and Vicars of Lingficld since 1800 : —
1. — William 3I'Kiiistr!/. Appointed in 1788.
2.— Robert FitzHerhcrt Fuller, M.A. Appointed in 1819.
o.— Thomas Pulmer Ilntton, M.A. Instituted in 1849.
4. — James Fry, M.A. Instituted in 1855.
5. — James Thomas, M.A. Instituted in 1803.
The chiu-ch, dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, is situated about a quarter of a
mile from Plaistow Street, the principal street in the parish. It is built of a darkish-
coloured stone, and covered with Horsham slate, and is very large and massive. It
consists of nave, north aud south aisles, and a large chancel. At the west end of the
south aisle is a cumbrous tower, surmounted by a low, shingled spire with five bells.
The north aisle is separated from the nave by pointed arches, aud on the north side is a
small stone tower to the height of the roof. It has a door on the outside, but does not
appear to have any internal communication. Interiorly the church is light, open, and
spacious, with an efi'ect somewhat imposing. There are two steps into the chancel,
which is separated from the nave by a wooden screen, a similar screen on each side
dividing the chancel from the north and south aisles. Amongst some remains of painted
glass in the centre light of the great cast window is a woman sitting with a musical
instrument in her hand, and in each of the side lights are remnants of pinnacled buildings,
&c. Several of the windows contain portions of ornamented borders in painted glass,
and in the windows of the north aisle are some female faces. The nave and aisles
are waggon-roofed with timber. The pulpit, of carved oak with a sounding-board, is
* Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. r. \<\\ 339— 3C7.
VOL. III. 3 B
37°
HISTORY OF SURREY.
hexagonal. Two or three of the old oaken pews in the south aisle have elaborately
carved panels. Eight or ten of the collegiate stalls, with seats to turn up, have been
removed into pews; on the lower side of these seats are representations of angels,
grotesque heads, shields, &c., carved in very bold relief. The font is octagonal, large,
massive, old, and much decayed. Its sides are ornamented with quatrefoils, in the
centre of each a rose, and in each of two of the roses is the representation of a human or
angelic face. The pedestal, also octangular in form, is relieved with niches.
At the east end of the south aisle is an oaken desk, on which are a black-letter
Bible and Prayer-book. At the side hangs a chain, formerly attached to the Bible,
which for its preservation has been injudiciously rebound : the style of the ancient
binding ought to have been preserved. At the end of the desk is a small aperture,
within which, according to tradition, the holy water used to be kept in a basin, and
was supplied from the basia anciently on the top of St. Peter's Cross tin Plaistow
Street.
In the floor of the chancel, on each side of the rails of the communion-table, are rude
figures embedded in the red tiles of the pavement : oue figure is green, the other yellow.
They are supposed to be collegiate remains, and originally occupied another position.
Against the wall, on the north side of the principal east window, hangs an ancient
helmet with its crest, a memorial, probably of the Cobham family.
This church contains various costly and noble memorials of the departed great, several
fine brasses, some perfect, some nearly so, and others seriously injured not only by the
hand of time, but by that of fanaticism and wanton mischief.
In the nave, immediately before the chancel, is a large and elaborately executed altar
tomb, considerably mutilated, on which are whole-length figures of a knight and his
lady, beautifully sculptured in white marble. The knight is in armoiu-, his head
sustained by a helmet, his feet resting on a dog, and a glove lying by his right side. Ho
is without a beard, and his hair is bound over the temples with a fillet : crest — a man's
head, barbed. The lady's head is supported by two angels, and her feet rest on a winged
dragon. At the east end are four shields of arms, viz. : —
1. Gu. a lion ramp. arg. 2. Gii. on a chev. or, three stars, snJ. 3. Az. tliree cinquefoils, or. 4. Az. a sea-horse,
winged, or.
At the west end are seven shields, and the same number on the north and south sides.
In the hollow of a moulding round the upper part of the tomb are several pins, by which a
brass fillet bearing an inscription appears to have been fastened.
Agaiust the north wall is an old altar tomb covered with a slab upwards of 7 feet long,
LIXG FIELD. 37,
on which is a brass full-lcugth figure of Ecgiunld, Lord C'obhani, M-ho died in IJO;]. lie is
represented in plate armour, with a pointed helmet, or skull-cap, and a hood of mail ; he
has also a skii-t of mail, and wears a sword, dagger, and large spurs. This figure, which
is 5 feet 8 inches in height, is in excellent preservation ; but part of the crested helmet on
which the head reposed has been removed, together with two small shields of arms. The
inscription is as follows : —
Jlf cStcrccbuvgli iomiii' be (Eoblinm, siv gicgiiuUIins + 'g)\t iacct liic li.ililms + ^OUIcsfiiit ul Icop.irbua
Iioris + iir cuiutistcrri3fiimam})<"tb.il)it honoris + paiisilis + ''I '"C'lS's + foi'iKOsiia + movcQci-ocus
+ j;iU-9U0 ill t.v))cii3is impcrtrritus + gcncMsua + ctqunnio + plucuit + mcssic + qb + morfvctur + CL'.viJiiMus
+ obijt + irt alis + glovifitctuv' + iiullc + quiibviiiflrno -(- trino t5iullii + iftUgnibit + tcio +
sit + tibi +l)cr.i -)- quits + Jlincn + y.'tci- + nostcr.
Here are several monuments, gravestones, and brasses of the Larons Howard of
Effingham and their families. Against the south wall of the chancel, over the vestry
door, are two elaborately carved white marble shields, between the upper parts of which is
a baron's coronet over the arms, richly emblazoned, of Howard, impaling Pelham. The
inscription on one shield records the memory of Francis, Lord Howard, of Great Bookham,
in this county, fifth Baron Effingham, whose first wife was Philadelphia, daughter
of Sir Thomas Pelham, Bart., of Laughton, in Sussex, great-grandfather of Thomas,
Duke of Newcastle.* This nobleman, Governor of Virginia in the reign of
Charles II., died in 1694. The second shield is inscribed to the memory of the Lady
Philadelphia mentioned above, who died in 1G85. Beneath the inscription are two hands
supporting a heart, with the word Resiirgcmus.
Westward, against a pillar between the nave and the south aisle, is another large white
marble tablet, richly sculptured with flowers and foliage, and the arms emblazoned, with
this inscription : —
Here lyetli interred the body of tlie truly noble and religious Lady Mary Howard, late wife of Thomas,
Lord Howard, Baron of Effingham ; t by whom shee had two daughters, Ann and ilarj'. She was the only
child of Eushia AVentworth, Esquire, of Cleave in the Isle of Thanet, in Kent. Her piety towards God and
charity to the poor, her sincere affection in her conjugal state, her tender love and parental care in the education
of her children, her pleasing gravity, courteous and afl'able beha\'iour in being generously just to all, were very
conspicuous to every one that truely knew her ; and as slice was happyly endowed witli all the vertucs that admii
the gi'eat and good, so they never forsook her till, with true himiility, rmder the stroak of a cruell distemper,
shee patiently resigned her life the 29th day of May, anno Dom. 1718.
North of the communion-table, adjoining the screen separating the east end of tlio nave
from the north aisle, is a large marble altar tomb, M'ith the whole-length effigy of a man in
armour; his head in mail, resting on a cushion, originally supported by two marble figures, now
* His lordship's second wife was Susan, daughter of Sir T. H. Henry Felton, of Playford, in the county of
Suffolk, and ^dow of Thomas Herbert, Esq.
+ Son of Francis, fifth baron, by the Lady Philadelpliia, his wife.
3 B 2
372 HISTORY OF SURREY.
mucli mutilated ; his feet resting against a small figure of a man with a long beard, and a turban
on his head, which is supported by his right hand. This eastern figure is supposed to refer
to some exjDloit in the Ci'usades. On the north side of the tomb are four shields : — 1, a cross
flory ; 2, a chevi'on, impaling the same ; the bearings on the two others are obliterated : those
on the west end, and at the south side, are also nearly obliterated. There is no inscription.
In the nave, westward of the Cobham monument above described, is a small female
figure in brass, her hands as in prayer, her mantle fastened with two roses on her breast :
this is supposed to be a memorial of the Howards, but the inscription is lost. Still
farther towards the west is another small mutilated brass figure, the inscription of which
is also lost. On the south side of the first of these brasses is a flat blue stone with the
arms of Howard, and thus inscribed : —
Hie dormit corpus Caeoli Howard, militis, filii Francisci Howard, militis, amborum de Bookham Magna,
in hoc comitatu, qui, heu ! animam expiravit vicesimo die Martis, anno Dom'i 1672, annoque setatis qninqua-
gesimo septimo. Besurgemus.
On another flat blue stone, southward of the Cobham monument, is an inscription to
" the deare memory of the hon''''' Charles and Philadelphia Howard, son and daughter of
the right hon^^^ the Lord Howard of Efiingham and Philadelphia his wife," who died in
1684, "to the perpetual greefe of theii- surviving father; and of their second daughter,
Margaret, who died in 1685."
In the north aisle, on a brass plate, beneath the figure of a woman praying, is the
inscription, " Orate pro animjl Kateriue Stokett."
On a black marble gravestone in the chancel, with armorial bearings dis^^laying, on a
chevron between three ostriches, as many mullets — Widnell; between three birds, impaling
three cinquefoils, in chief a lion j)assant, is this inscription : — •
Vana salus hominis. Pietati sacrum. Siste gradum, Viator, et hoc sepulcbrum cerne, et quern cepit
comprehendere. Gulielmus Widuellus * Mc jacet mortuus, antiqua sobole prognatus. Theatrum humilitatia
itemque scoena squalida virtutis inest : cliaritatem sanguinis liic exuperavit candoria, probilatis dotibus, quern
decimo octavo die Novembris mors eripuit immatura. Denatus a.d. mdclxii.
Desist those prophane feet, forbeare
To fowle this hallowed marble, where
Lies Vertue's, Goodnes', Honour's heire.
'Cause the world not worthy him to have,
The great Jehovah shut him in this grave.
Memorials of the Farindon family, of Battners, in this parish, are numerous from
1730.
On a white marble tablet against the north wall in the chancel is the following
inscription to the memory of Su* James Burrow : —
Of a family formerly residing at Shaves, in Tandridge.
LINGFIELD. 373
Born 28th Nov. 1701, 0. S. ]:>ic<l Dili Nov. 1782, N. S.
Underneath lie the remains of Sir James Buerow, of Starborough Castle in this parish, knt. ; many years
Fellow, and above 30 years Vice President, and twice occasional President, of the Royal Society ; also Fellow
and once Vice-President of the Antit^uarian Society of London ; and honorary member of the Societe dos
Antiquitcs de Cassell ; Master of the Crown Office, and Senior Bencher of the honourable Society of the Inner
Temple. Few or none perhaps have passed through life better contented willi their lot, or have enjoyed it with
more satisfaction and thankfulness. The convivial character was what he chielly alTected, as it was his constiint
■wish to be easy and cheerful himself, and to see others in a like disposition.
Amis: — Az. three fleurs-de-lis, crm.; between the two upper, a mullet, of the last.
Amongst numerous tombs and gravestones in the chureliyard is one to the memory of
Frances, relict of Charles Howard, Knt., of East Wick, in Great Eookham, and daugliter
of Sir George Coiu'thop, Knt., of Whyly, in Sussex. Also some to the Saxby family,
of Lingfield, in this county.
There is a good vicarage-house, with about 7 acres of ground attached, in a corner of
which the house stands, and the rent of it goes to make up the vicar's stipend. The vicar-
age is endowed with a portion of the great tithes, amounting to £35 per annum, together
with a grant from Queen Anne's Bounty of £49 19s. 8d, The vicarage and villa were
built about thirty years ago by the late Thomas Alcock, Esq. The Eev. Wilmot Guy
Bryan is patron.
The Eegisters of this parish are in a good state of prescrvatiun : the baptisms commence
in 1559, the burials and marriages in loGl. In the beginning of the oldest Eegistcr are
the following singular lines : —
" Dayes of marriage.
Conjugium Adventus prohibet, HUariquc relaxat,
Septuagena vetat, sed Paschce Octava relaxat,
Eogamen vetitat, concedit Trina potestas.
Infoelix multis, fl/jra est mihi Litera fcelix ;
Si Savarov scribit, scribit et ilia Qtiv.
Mors tua, mors Christi, Fraus Mundi, Gloria Coeli,
Et Dolor Inferni, .^int meditanda tibi." *
The recorded donations to this parish, all the annual produce of land, and all by will,
are as follows : —
1627. Henry Smith, Esq., for the relief of aged poor and lai'ge families, £10.
1659. John Hole, Esq., for the relief of poor people, £i. 8s.
1709. William Saxby, Esq., for ten poor people, in coats and gowns, on Good Friday, £10 10s.
171G. John Piggot, Esq., for 120 poor people, on Good Friday, £2.
The only foundation for a school in Lingfield, observe Manning and Bray,f consists of
an annuity of £2 10s. issuing out of a house in the parish, given by some person now
* Thy death, ye death of Christ, y" world's temptation,
Heaven's joy, Hell's torments be yy meditation,
t " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 357.
374 HISTORY OF SURREY.
unknown, for tlie purpose of teaching five poor cliiklreu of the parish, to be nominated by
the minister, churchwardens, and overseers. There are now two schooh'ooms at Lingfield,
one for boys, and the other for girls ; also a school in each of the two hamlets, Dorman's
Land and Baldwyn Hill. The school at the last-named place was built through the eff'orts
of the present vicar. The population of the parish is about 2,500, and its area about 16
square miles.
OXTED, OR OXTEAD.
This parish is pleasantly situated below the chalk hills bordering on Woldingham and
Chelsham on the north, on Limpsfield and Titsey on the east, on Tandridge and
Crowhurst on the south, and Tandridge and Godstone on the west. The soil to the
north is chalk ; in the centre, sand or sandy loam ; and in the south, clay, forming
nearly equal divisions, and running from east to west. In the digging of wells oyster-
shells of large size are frequently found at a depth of 30 feet, and then water is
obtained in abundance. Here is some of the best u-rigated meadow land in the county.
The parish contains 3,659 acres, and is of the ratable value of £7,000.
Barrow Green, in Osted, derives its name from a large barrow, supposed to have been
tkrown up after some battle with the Danes, by whom this part of the country Avas much
infested. It adjoins the old Pilgrims' Eoad. A spring which rises at Barrow Green, and
another to the north-east, under the hill at Titsey, meet in this parish, and run into the
Medway. These waters are celebrated for trout.
In the Doomsday Book the manor is thus described: — "Earl Eustace (of Bolognc)
holds Acstede, which Githa, the mother of Harold, held in the time of King Edward. It
was then assessed at 20 hides ; now at 5 hides. The arable land amounts to 20 carucates.
There are 2 carucates in the demesne ; and thirty -five villains, with 18 carucates. There
are two mills, valued at 12s. 6d., and 4 acres of meadow. The wood yields one hundred
swine for pannage. In Southwark is one messuage, valued at 2d. ; and six bondmen,
und nine bordars. There is a Church. In the time of King Edward it was valued at £16 ;
when it was received, at £10 ; at present, at £14."
The parish includes five manors, or reputed manors, namely, those of Oxted, Birstead,
Broadhams, Foyle, and Stoketts.
The Manor of Oxted. — In the reign of John a part of this manor was held of the
King in capite, as of the honour of Bologne, by the service of two knights' fees, by Hugo
de IS'evill ; and a certain part of the manor was held of the same honour, and by the same
service, from the Conquest of Euglancl, by Eolaud do Acstede.* In 121 (i King John
granted to Nevill the laud of Eoland, probably a Avard of the Crown, for he afterwards had
possession of the estate, and died seized of it in 12 10. That portion of Oxtcd which liad
belonged to Hugo de Nevill was transferred with his daughter in marriage to John do
Cobham, of Starborough, in Liugfield. After repeated transfers this inheritance devolved
on a Mrs. Master, who died in 1807, and left it to her son, the Ecv. Legh lloskiu.s
Master,"]" to whose grandson, Charles lEoskins Master, Esq., it now belongs. According
to a survey taken in 19 Elizabeth, the manor of Oxted contained G05 acres, besides the
commons and waste grounds. The residence of C. H. Master, Esq., the lord of the manor,
is Barrow Green House, a substantial and handsome brick mansion.
The manor of Birstead, Bieested, or Buested, anciently belonged to the priory of
Tandridge. At the dissolution it was granted to John Ecde, Esq. After a rapid succes-
sion of owners it was eventually purchased, as was also the Hall estate, by Sir William
Weller Pcpys, Bart., whose grandson, the Earl of Cotteuham, is the present owner.
The manor of Beoadhams, in the centre of the parish, anciently belonged to the Abbey
of Battle. It was granted, with Limpsfield, in 1539, to Sir John Gresham,J from whom
it descended to his eldest son William in 1557. " In a rental of Oxted, in 1568, William
Gresham is said to hold this manor, and that there were 300 acres in demcsne."§ From
him it passed, with the Titsey estate, to Sir Mamaduke Gresham (son of Edward Gresham),
M.P. for East Grinstead in 1G60, and created a baronet in the same year.|| About 1800
a Mr. Bryant purchased the estate, but subsequently surrendered it to the executors of
the Duke of Norfolk, who had a mortgage on it, and from them it was purchased by
Colonel Clayton. After his death it was sold to Edward Kelsey, Esq., the present owner.
The manor of Foyle (Foyllye, or Fuyllyc) was, in 1362, granted by John de Watosham
to Wm. de Staffhui-st, two of whose daughters, Margaret and Catherine, appear to have
* Testa de Xevill, p. 225. t Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. pp. 3S3 — 5.
t Sir John Gresham was descended from an ancient family settled in Norfolk so for back as the time of Edward III.
He was the third son of John Gresham, of Holt, in that county, by Alice, daughter and heiress of Andrew Blyke. He
was an eminent merchant in London. His elder brother. Sir Eichard, also a merchant, was the father of Sir Thomas
Gresham, who built the Royal Exchange and founded Gresham College. Sir John was Sheriff of London in 1537, and
Lord JIayor in 1547, in both of which offices his brother. Sir Eichard, had preceded him a few years. He died in 1057
seized of the manors of Titse)', Limpsfield, Broadhams, Oxted, Warlingham (with the rectory), Sanderstead, and the burgh
of Langhurst, Eowholt, and Woldingham, leaving William his son and heir. This William had issue two sons, William
and Thomas, and three daughters ; and by will, dated 1575, he devised the manors of Titsey and Limpsfield, with other
estates, to his wife Beatrice for her life, with remainder to his younger sou, Thomas Gresham, to whom he gave estates
in Limpsfield and other places. AVilliam, the eldest son and heir-at-law, had only one child, named Elizabeth. By deed,
dated 1593, he ratified the will of his father, by which Titsey, Limpsfield, and other estates were given to his younger
brother Thomas. Elizabeth, the daughter of William, died without issue. Thomas, her uncle, was knighted, and Avas
succeeded by his son John, also knighted, who, by deed dated 1630, is described as his second son, though no elder son is
named. John died in 1643, leaving no issue ; his brother Edward, mentioned as his third son, succeeded to his estates.
§ Vich Manning and Bray's " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 387. || Sec the account of Titsey.
3)6 HISTORY OF SURREY.
been married to John Marcliant and William Marchant. In 1401 the said John Marchant
granted to Stephen At-Lee and Simon Dane all such lands as descended to him on the
death of Dionysia Parker, his mother, and such lands in Okested as he stood possessed of
by feoffment in Stalkynden. In 1420 At-Lee and Dane granted to Sir John Gaynsford
and others, in trust for him, all lands, rents, and services, &c., in Okested called La Foyle.
In 1421 all the parties except Gaynsford reconveyed to At-Lee; and two years afterwards
Gaynsford conveyed to him, reserving a road to his mill at Crowhiu'st and a rent of 22s.
In 1G08 Thomas, Earl of Dorset, died seized of the manor of Toyle in Okested, Godstone,
Lingfield, and Tanrige. It afterwards successively belonged to Anthony Farindon, Esq.,
of Lingfield ; Thomas Streatfield, of Stone Hall, in Oxted ; and Mr. Wells, a banker, of
Wigmore, near Bromley. On Mr. Wells's banki-uptcy in 1841, it was again sold, William
Leveson-Gower, Esq., of Titsey, being the piu'chaser.
Of the manor, or reputed manor, of Stoketts little appears to be known. In 1345 John
Stoket granted land to Sir Robert Stangrave and Dame Joan his wife, lying between their
wood on one part, and the Abbot of Battle's land on the other. In the following year
" Eoger at Stoket, son and hcu- of John, was in ward to the lord of the manor of Okested ;
and the bailiff charges, as paid for his commons going to school, lOd. a week for 30 weeks
(seven weeks being deducted when he was at Sterborough), and lid. paid for cloth for one
pair of hose, and Id. for sewing, and lOd. for two pair of shoes." * John Stoket's daughter
and heiress, Dionesc, left three daughters and coheiresses, who married respectively John
Gens, John Ounsted, and William Banastcr. Banaster appears to have parted with his
thii-d. In 1577 William Causten held one third, James Gens one tliird {i.e. the manor-
hoiise and 34 acres), and John Ounsted the other third. Causten's part continued in his
descendant, William, of the fourth generation, in 1690. t
Stone Hall, a seat in this parish, was purchased after the death of Col. Clayton by
Edward Kelsey, Esq., above mentioned.
Oxted is a rectory, in the archdeaconry of Southwark and diocese of Eochester. It
was rated in the Yalor of Edward I. at £16 Is. 4d. ; in the Liber Eegis at £24 6s. O^d.,
paying 2s. Id. for synodals, and 6s. 8d. for procurations. Patron, C. H, Master, Esq.
Rectors of Oxted in and since 1800 : —
1. — Thomas Thorp. Instituted in 1794.
2._ir. Master Pync, M.A. Instituted in 1827.
Z.—Franl Parnell, M.A. Instituted in 1869.
* Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 389.
+ " This family lias been long here, and of some note ever since the Keformation."— Jdcvii, p. 391.
ox TED. 377
Oxted Chiu'cli, dedicated to tlie Vii-gin Mary, is situated about lialf a mile from the
street of the village, on the top of one of those beautiful knolls with which this part of tho
country abounds. It is built of stone, with a tiled roof, having at the west end a large low
tower, surmounted by a turret containing five bells. It has a nave, chancel, and north
and south aisles, separated from the nave by columns supporting three obtuse-pointed arches
on each side. Tradition states that the chancel was injured by lightning a little previously
to 1637, which date over the east window records a restoration; but from the following
entry, copied from the parish Kegister, the chm-ch appears to have been more severely
visited in 1719 : — " Oxted church and chancel was burnt by a groat tempest of lightning
July 17th, 1719. The fire began about one o'clock in the morning, in the top of the spire,
and melted the five bells." — " The present five bells were hung, and fii-st rung in peal, on
the 5th Nov. 1729 " The first, second, tliu-d, and foiu-th bear this inscription : —
The fifth is thus inscribed :-
RiCARDUs Phelps me fecit, 1729 :
Ab Omni Fulgure defende nos Domine.
Good Folks with one accord
We call to hear God'a Word
We honour to the King
Joy to Brides do sing
We Triumphs loudly tell
And Ring your last Farewell.
After the second fire a wooden-framed window was placed in the chancel, two similar
windows in the south aisle, and two in the north aisle. The cast window and those in the
north aisle were taken out in 1838, and other handsome windows, presented to the chm-ch
by a former rector, placed in their stead. At the same time C. L. H. Master, Esq.,
presented one for the south aisle, and the expense of another was defrayed by a subscrip-
tion of the parishioners.
The entrance is by the south porch, on the right of which is a simdial, re-erected in
1815. The pulpit is hexagonal, and of plain oak, about the date of 1720. The font is a
small square stone basin, supported by a cylindiical pillar. St. Mary's was restored in
1853, at a cost of £250, and the interior was again restored in 1877.
The number of monuments in this church, particularly of the Iloskius family, long
lords of the manor, is unusually large. At the west end of the south aisle is a plain
marble slab thus inscribed : —
Hie jacet Edjiundus Hoskixs, filius secuudo-genitns Caroli Hoskins de Oxted in Comit. Surria;, armigcri;
natus est xii" Febiiiar. an'o salutis mdcxxxiiiio, mortuus xo denatus xn" Junii mdclxxvio. Non sine ingenti
animi mcerore sensit se ab irato patre quasi exhajredatum ; noluit igitur inter familia; cinerea eepcliri sed hunc
semotum requiescendi elegit locum. M. H. charissimo conjugi mcestissima conjux. F. C.
VOL. III. 3 C
378
HISTORY OF SURREY.
On a large blue gravestone in the chancel is an inscription to the memory of Ann,
wife of Charles Hoskins, Esq., who died in 1651. Below: — " Let this patterne of piety,
mapp of misery, mu-rovr of patience here rest."
A brass plate, with the figures of two youths, and the following quaint inscription in
capitals, within the altar rails, is now partially covered : —
Here lyeth enterred the body of Thomas Hoskins, Gent, second sonne of Sir Thomas Hoskins, Knight, who
deceased ye 10th day of Aprill Ao D'ni 1611, at ye age of 5 yeares, who aboute a qnarter of an houre before his
departure did of lumself, without any instruction, speak thoi wordes, ' and leade us not into temptation, but
deliver us from all eviU,' being the last wordes he spake.
On a brass plate (now partly covered) in the middle of the chancel, under the repre-
sentation of a man standing, and holding his hands joined in prayer : —
gjic jacct Joh:»ttnc0 2»flf. J)ai)ii6.im;jUctor huj's ccd'ic qui obiit.vijo bic nuus'<3luliianno g'ni mill'o ccccxxbiii
tMJtts a'i't p'jjifictttf "^'s. §liiicn.
Another brass plate, mentioned by Manning and Bray* as bearing the portraiture of a
lady standing in the same devout posture, has been removed, or it is covered. Over her,
in an escutcheon, were the cross, nails, pillar, ladder, and other instruments of Christ's
passion, and beneath were two children, with the inscription here subjoined : —
Orate pro anima Johanke Haseldenn, que obiit xxjo die meiisis Octobris anno Domini miU'imo cccc
octoagesimo cujus anime p'p'cietur Deus. Amen.
On the north wall is a monument, in colours much faded, representing, under an arch,
the figm-es of a man in a gown and his wife, both in black, and praying before a faldstool.
Beneath these figui'es are ten sons and seven daughters in a similar posture, and over
them, in capitals, this inscription : —
John Aldersey, haberdasher and merchant venturer of London, being son of John Alderisey of Bunbery
in ye County of Chester, gent. dep. ys lyfe ye 26 day of July a." 1616, being of the age of 75 years, and having
lived wti liis wife Anna in the holy jEstate of matrimony 46 years, and had issue 17 children.
The Eegister of this parish commences in 1603 for burials, but for baptisms and
marriages not until 1613, where there is a note (signed, "Daniel Bellamy, rector"),
stating that the marriages had occupied four leaves, the christenings twenty-five leaves, and
the biu'ials eighteen leaves, in a pre-existing Eegister. From 1613 downwards the
Eegister is perfect, excepting from 1683 to 1690, and from 1700 to 1704 inclusive. These
portions, it is stated in the Eegister, were lost by a Mr. Shepherd (1681 — 1705). The
Eegister contains entries of several marriages performed by justices of the peace during the
Commonwealth. In an inventory of goods belonging to Oxted Church is recorded the
* " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 390.
TANDRIDGE. jyq
following gift of the Buchess of Devousliii-e, who appears tu have resided in the parish
about 1750, viz. two large silver flagons, a silver cup and cover, a large embossed silver
dish, and a silver plate.
The recorded benefactions to the poor of Oxtcd arc in substance as follows : —
1627. Henry Smith, Esq., £15 annually, arising from the rent of a fanu at Worth, in Sussex.
1786. Mrs. Jane Linwood, £100, part of which was laid out in the purchase of j£10U stock, and producing
£3 annually.
1794. Mrs. Jane Piggott, £150, invested in the 3i per Cents., and producing £5 5s. annually.
1830. Lady Bensley, by wU], £50, the whole of which was distributed in clothing by an order of the vestry.
1834. ilr. William Peter.?, the interest of £200 stock in the 3 per Cents,, producing annually £6, to be distributed
amongst poor resident widows not receiving parochial relief.
New and handsome schools have been recently erected in this parish.
TANDRIDGE.
This parish is bounded by that of Godstoue on the west and north-west, by Crowhui-st
on the south, and by Oxted and Limpsficld on the north and east. In the middle of the
parish the land is sandy, with clay on the north and south.
Two manors here arc thus described in the Doomsday Book : — "The Wife of Salio
holdes of Eichard (de Tonbridge) the manor of Tanrige^ which Torberu held of King
Edward. It was then assessed at 10 hides : now, at 2 hides. There are 10 carucates of
arable land. In demesne are 3 carucates ; and there are twenty villains, and ten bordars,
with 11 carucates. There is a mill, at 50d. ; and 8 acres of meadow. The wood yields
forty hogs for pannage, and eleven for herbage. In the time of King Edward it was valued
at £6 ; afterwards, at 40s. ; and noAV, at £11.
" The "Wife of Salie also holds of Eichard, TelUngdone. Alnoth held it of King Edward ;
and it was then assessed at 10 hides ; now, at 1^ hides. The arable land amounts to
4 carucates. In the demesne are 2 carucates ; and five villains and eight bondmen, with
2^ carucates. There is a Chui'ch. The wood yields forty hogs for pannage. In
the time of King Edward it was valued at £1 ; afterwards, at £2> ; now, at £0, yet it
yields £7."
Odo, the son of William do Bammartin, appears to have held the manor of Taudridge
at an early period ; and in the Testa de Nevill it is stated that Alicia de Bammartin (pro-
bably a daughter or grand-daughter of Odo) held one knight's fee in Tanrugge, of the
honour of Gloucester, in the reign of Henry III. In 1315 the estate had passed,
apparently by marriage with the heiress of Bammartin, to the family of Warblentone, in
jgo HISTORY OF SURREY.
whicli it remained vested until the time of Edward IV. Sir George Putnam, in 1509,
held his courts as lord of the manor, which was afterwards styled Tandridge Court, to
distinguish it fi'om another manor in the parish called Tandridge Priory.
The manor of Takdridge Court descended fi-om Sir George to Eobert Putnam, who in
1543 suffered a recovery of this manor, with 300 acres of land, 50 of meadow, 200 of
pasture, 60 of wood, and £4 rent. After intermediate transfers these and other estates
were sold, under the authority of an Act of Parliament passed in 1766, to Sii- Zem-ick
Clayton, whose son and heir. Sir Eobert, bequeathed Tandridge Court to his cousin. Sir
William Clayton, who held it in 1808, but afterwards sold it to Matthias Wilks, Esq.
That gentleman erected a handsome residence on the estate, but left the old court-house
standing, and it is now in the occupation of some labourers. Mr. Wilks subsequently
disposed of the property to Sir William Weller Pepys, Bart., whose grandson, the Earl of
Cottenham, now resides in the new mansion.
The Manor of Northall, or Tandridge Priory. — Odo de Dammartin, who held the
manor of Tanrige, which had belonged to Eichard de Tonbridge, supposed to have been the
founder of the hospital or priory of Tandridge, endowed that institution with part of his
estate here, which subsequently constituted the priory manor. It fell into the hands of the
King on the suppression of the monastery, aud was given to John Eede ia exchange for
Oatlands.* John Eede, son and heir of the preceding, in 157G conveyed to Eichard
Bostock his manor of Tanrige (alias Northall) and Oxted, &c., which afterwards passed
to the family of Fuller, and was bought of the daughters of Serjeant Fuller by Sir William
Clayton, who had purchased the Tandridge Court estate also. The subsequent descent of
these manors to Sir Eobert Clayton has been abeady noticed. He conveyed during his
life the manor (or reputed manor) of Northall, with the priory farm, to Mr. Eobert Gramme,
the son of his steward, as a reward for his services.t
TiLLiNGDON. — Though at the time of the Doomsday survey Tillingdon was a manor
which included about one-half of the parish, it has long since been divested of its manorial
attributes, and has dwindled to a single farm. It appears that in the reign of Edward I.
Tillingdon belonged to Thomas de Warblentone, or Warbleton, who also held Tandridge
Coui't ; and he sold the lands and tenements of TiUingdonne to Gilbert de Clare, Earl of
Gloucester, whose ancestor, Eichard de Tonbridge, had been lord of the fee.
This manor descended, with the estate of the Earl of Gloucester at Bletchiugley, to the
Earls of Stafford ; and through the attainder of Edward Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, in
* See account of Oatlands, in Wey bridge, vol. ii. p. 129 et seq.
+ See p. 346 of tlie present volume, under Godstone.
TANDRIDGE. 381
the reign of Heni-y YIII., it escheated to the Crown. Temporary grants were made to
Sir Thomas Cawardeu and other persons at different times ; and at length, in the time of
Charles I., this manor formed part of the estate of George Evelyn, Esq. Tillingdon
afterwards came into the possession of Sir John Evelyn, of Godstone, who, by will dated
in 1671, devised this estate, with others, to one Mary Gittings, by whom he liad a
daughter, not born in wedlock. This woman sold the property to Sir Robert Clayton and
John Morris, Esq. ; and Tillingdon fell to the share of the former, in whose descendant. Sir
"Wm. Robert Clayton, the present baronet, who holds nearly the whole property of the
parish, it still remains.
The manor of Newlands (or l^ewland), partly in this parish, and partly in Crowhurst,
Lingfield, &c., was formerly included among the estates of the family of Gaynsford ; and
in 1554: it was vested in John Gaynsford, an idiot, with other lands and tenements, as
mentioned in our account of Crowhurst.* In 1G08 Thomas Thorp died seized of New-
lands, in the parish of Tandridge, held of the manor of Okested, leaving Eichard, his son
and heir, a minor.
Tandridge Hall. — The mansion thus named, having been included in the grant from
Henry VIII. to John Eede, was sold to one of the family of Haward, and in IdtO it came
into the hands of Sir "WilHam Haward, whose representatives, in ICSl, sold this, with
other estates, to John Burrough, Esq. After other transfers it was purchased, together
with the manor of Garston in Bletchingley, by the lady of Sir Kenrick Clayton, and in
1808 it belonged to Sir William Clayton, Bart. From that gentleman it was piu-chased
by Joseph Wilks, Esq., who converted the old farmhouse into a residence for himself.
More recently it underwent a thorough repau- ; many of the rooms, however, are ancient,
and appear to be nearly in their pristine state. One apartment is wainscoted throughout,
over its carved mantelpiece is the date 1598, and on each side are the initials of the
Haward family. It is probable that this mantelpiece, which is of a handsome character,
formerly ornamented the dining-room, as that apartment is said to have been wainscoted
previously to the time when Mr. Wilks effected his alterations. Mr. Wilks then heightened
the dining-room, and is believed to have removed the panelling to a bedi'oom of suitable
proportions. Fragments of carving, similar to that of the mantelpiece, are found in other
parts of the house,
EooKSNEST, a handsome mansion, situated in a well-wooded park of about 140 acres in
extent, at the base of the chalk hill, anciently belonged to the priory of Tandridge. It was
sold by John Eede, son of the grantee of the priory estates, to Eichard Bostock, and it
* See ante, p. 338.
382 HISTORY OF SURREY.
afterwards belonged to the family of KofFey, Frequently disposed of by sale, it was at
length purchased, in 1817, by C. H. Turner, Esq., whose son, Mr. Francis M. H. Turner, is
the present owner. This elegant residence adjoias that of Flower, in the adjoining parish
of Godstone.*
The Peioky of Takdridge. — This religious institution, at first a hospital for three
priests and several poor brethren, was afterwards regarded as a priory of Austin Canons.
It is uncertain when it originated, but in the reign of Eichard I., Odo (or Eudes), son of
William de Dammartin, became a considerable benefactor to the priory, and has been
generally looked upon as the founder. In 1352 Walter de Merstham, parson of Limpsfield,
had license to alienate lands and tenements in Tandi-idge to the convent. It is stated in a
rescript of the Bishop of Winchester, in 1308, that the rents of the priory were hardly
sufficient for the support of the officiating ministers. The following account of the manors,
lands, tenements, and quit-rents belonging to the priory of Tandiidge is given in the
Yaluation of Ecclesiastical Property by the King's Commissioners in 27 Hem-y YIII. : —
Firm-rents in the parish of Tandridge, £47 3s. l^d. ; in Oxted, £11 12s. 3d. ; in Crow-
hurst, £8 ; in Godstone, £3 18s. 4d. ; in Bletchingley, £5 3s. ; in WarlLngham, £4 13s. 4d. ;
in Chipsted, IGs. ; in Hartfield, Sussex, £4 Is. 8d. ; in Chiddingstone, Kent, 7s. lOd. ; and
in Long Sutton, Hants, 12s. ; in all, £86 7s, 6|d. Eeprisals or deductions, £7 10s. llf d.,
leaving a clear revenue of £78 16s. 6|d.f
The priory was situated not far from the foot of the chalk hill, at a spot where paving
tiles have been foimd, but the conventual buildings have long since been destroyed. What
is now called the Priory is a mansion erected near the site of the ancient religious establish-
ment. It was purchased by the late C. JL. Turner, Esq., above mentioned. Joseph Wilks,
Esq., built a house in this neighbom-hood, to which he gave the name of Southlands ; it now
belongs to the Earl of Cottenham.
Tandridge is now a vicarage, in the patronage of F. M. H. Tm-ner, Esq. In 1576
John Eede (mentioned in a preceding page) conveyed to Eichard Bostock, Esq., with the
site and lands of the priory, the site of the then late church and churchyard of Tandridge,
with the rectory and vicarage, &c. In 1603 Mr. Bostock settled the rectory and vicarage
" on his nephew, Bostock Fuller, and his son Edward, directing that with all the tithes
belonging to this Eectory, except of certain parts there mentioned, there should be for ever
maintained a godly learned Curate or Minister to serve the Cure of the Eectory, and say
Divine service, and administer the sacraments in the parish church of Tandridge, according
to the laws of the Chui-ch of England ; and to teach the children of the inhabitants of
* See under Godstone, p. 346. t Valor Ecclesiasticus, vol. ii. p. 68.
TANDRIDGE. 383
Tandi'idgc and Blccbiuglcy gratis. Unluckily for the clergyman, a proviso was inserted
that, after Mr. Bostock's death, Mr. Bostock Fuller might revoke the uses of this deed,
and declare them to himself in fee, a poAvcr which Mr. Fuller did not forget to avail
himself of; and the Clergyman who serves the Cure receives to this day £16 only." * In
1711, Elizabeth, Anne, and Letitia Fuller, spinsters, conveyed to their nephew, Francis
Fuller, their reversion in the rectory, and the tithes of certain lands in Tandridge, he
covenanting with them to find a proper person to serve the ciu'c of the rectory, and to
save harmless therefi-om the lauds and tithes devised by Serjeant Fuller to his daughter
Elizabeth. t Subsequently those ladies conveyed their- interest to Sir "William Clayton,
from whose family it has passed to that of the Turners. The Ecgisters commence in
1680.
Curates and Vicars of Tandridge in and since 1800 : —
1. — John Waters, LL.B. Appointed in 1781.
2. — Henry Brozvn. Appointed in 1831.
3. — Andrcio Ramsay GamphcU. Appointed in 1812.
4. — TtoJ)ert Hudson Borradaile, M.A. Instituted in 1865.
The church, dedicated to St. Peter, occupies an elevated site in the manor of Tilling-
don. It is small, built with stone, mostly covered with rough-cast. K'car the west end
is a tower, with a shingled spii-e and tive bells. The chui'ch consists of nave, chancel,
and north transept, built in 1836 ; a south aisle was added in 1844 by Mr. C. H. Turner ;
and a north aisle and organ chamber were built in 1874, under the superintendence of Sir
Gilbert Scott.
Interiorly the chancel is separated from the nave by a semicii'cular arch. The transept
has a neat pointed window in three compartments, with five lights at the top. The
east window is small ; there is also a small window at the west end, but no door. On the
right of the entrance by the south porch is a piscina. Over the vestry fireplace is an oak
carving from Tandridge Hall, in the same style as the mantelpiece noticed in that
mansion. It is in thi-ee compartments, flowers, scrolls, &c., occupying the north and the
centre, and the south what appears to be the head of a jester. Its age is probably that
of the mantelpiece — 1598. Over the communion-table, and also over the vestry door,
are shields of arms of the Bostock and Fuller families. The font is octagonal, plain,
massive, and ancient. The church was restored in 1851, at a cost of £300.
There are several gravestones in the floor, memorials of the Bostocks, Fullers, Wyatts,
* Manning and Bray, " Surrey," vol. ii. p. 376. + Id. p. 377.
384 HISTORY OF SURREY.
Saxbys, and others, but no brasses. A white marble tablet commemorates the Rev. John
Waters, nearly fifty years minister of this parish, who died in 1833.
At the east end is a range of four ancient table tombs for the Saxby and "Wyatt
families. One of them is for Margaret "Wyatt Saxby, of Oxted, spinster, who died in
1738 ; another for the second and third wives of William Wyatt, of whom Ann died in
1747, and Elizabeth in 1775 ; and a third for Margaret, wife of William Saxby, Esq., of
Penshurst, and for himself, who died in 1775.
The following are the only recorded charitable donations to this parish : —
Henry Smith, Esq., by will, an annual rent-charge of £4 10s., to be distributed in linen and woollen for clothes.
Mr. David Maynard, by will, 1789, £3 annually from land, to send poor children to schooL
Schools were erected in this parish in 1870, at a cost of £1,070.
INDEX TO VOL. Ill,
Adams, Rev. Eicbard Leonard, 224
Addington, boundaries and soil, 249 ;
antiquities discovered, ib. ; early
bistory, ib. ; descent of tbe manor,
250 ; a dainty disb to set before a
king, ib. ; Addington Park, 252 ;
tbe rectory, vicarage, and cburcli,
253 ; vicars, 255 ; Sbirley, *. ; St.
Jobn's Cburcli, ib. ; tbe Ballards
estate, ib. ; acreage, ib. ; Roman en-
campment, ib.
Addiscombe, 237
Alfartbing, manor of, 213
AJlen, Rev. Josepb, D.D., 176
Andrews, Dr. Lancelot, Rector of
Cbeam, 302
Angell famUy, tlie, 338
Angell, Jobn, bequest of, 107
Antrobus, tbe family of, 302
Asbmole, Elias, burial-place of, 74
Astley's Ampbitbeatre, 81
Atkins, Sir Richard, 35
Atkins-Bowyer, Rev. F. W., 34
Atkins-Bow-j-er, Rev. W. H. W., 34
Balbam, tbe manor of, 1G3
Bancroft, Arcbbisbop, bis bequest of
books to Lambetb Palace Library, 50 ;
memorial of, 72
Baudon, manor of, 279
Bannerman, Jobn Alexander, Esq., 332
Barber, Jobn, a distinguished patriot,
192
Bardolf, tbe family of, 251
Baring, Rev. Charles, 360
Barkley, Ale.xander, author of " Tlie
Ship of Fools," 241
Barnard, Sir John, philanthropist, 192
Barnes, boundaries, 165 ; extent and
nature of the soil, ib. ; descent of tbe
manor, ib. ; Barn Elms, 166 ; Jacob
Tonson's residence, ib.; a battle-
royal, 167 ; tbe Kit-Cat Club, ib. ;
advowson, ib. ; the parish Regis-
VOL. Ill,
ter, 168 ; rectors since ISOO, ib. ; ex-
tracts from tbe parish Register, ib. ;
eminent rectors, ib. ; Holy Trinity
district, 170 ; the village, ib. ; Ham-
mersmith Suspension Bridge, ib. ;
culture of cedars of Lebanon, ib.
Barnwell, George, traditional connection
of, with Camberwell, 25 j
Battersea, situation and boundaries,
171 ; etymology, ib.; the manor as
described in Doomsday Book, ib.;
grants of privileges, 172 ; descent of
the manor, ib. ; Bolingbroke House,
173 ; York House, 174 ; Price's |
Candle Factory, 175 ; the Red House, '
ib. ; Battersea Park, ib. ; Southwark
and Vauxball AVater Company, ib.;
Shaftesbury Park Estate, ib. ; rectory
and vicarage, ib. ; the parish Register,
176 ; vicars since 1800, ib. ; St. JIary's
Church, ib. ; monimiieuts, &c., 177 ;
St. George's Church, 178 ; Christ
Church, ib. ; St. John's, ib. ; St.
Saviour's, ib.; St. Peter's, ib.; St.
Philip's, ib. ; Anabaptist chapel, ib. ;
Surrey Mission Society, 179 ; foun-
dation of the Bible Society, ib. ; Na-
tional Society's Training College, ib.;
Penge, 180; Battersea Bridge, ib. ;
Albert Suspension Bridge, ib. ; Bat-
tersea Rise, ib.; Royal Freemasons'
Girls' School, 181 ; Clapham Junc-
tion, ib.
Battersea, manor of, 212
Bayle, Robert, Prior of IMerton, 184
Beck, Rev. Edward Josselyn, 153
Beddington, boundaries, &c., 274 ; dis-
covery of Roman antiquities, ib. ;
manor of Home-Beddington, ib. ;
manor of Beddington-Huscarle, 275 ;
tbe family of tbe Carews, 276 ; manor
of '\Vallington,278 ; manor of Bandon,
279 ; tbe rectory, 280; extract from the
parish Register, i6. ; rectors since 1800,
3 D
281 ; tbe parish church, i7i. ; cbarilable
bequests, ib. ; monuments and me-
morials in tbe church, 282 ; Bedding-
ton Park, 286 ; the mansion, 288 ;
St. Mary's Ho.spital, 289 ; the hamlet
of Wallington, *. ; Holy Trinity
Church, 290 ; schools and railway
stations, ih. ; Beddington and Wal-
lington Field Gardens, ib.
Benbow, Aclmiral, birthplace of, 155
Benham, Rev. William, 255
Bennett, Rev. AViEiam, 303
Bernard, Edward, Rector of Cboam, 303
Bigg, Rev. Lionel Oliver, 340
Biggin, manor of, 311
Billeshurst, manor of, 367
Birstead, manor of, 375
Bishop Bonner's House, Lambetb, 130
Bissett, Rev. John Collinson, 255
Blackwall, Rev. .i\jitbony, 34
Bletchingley, situation, boundaries,
&c., 324 ; descent of tbe manor, 325 ;
manor of Garston, 327 ; Pendell, 329 ;
North Park, 330 ; Kentwajniea, ib. ;
Ham, ib. ; Stangrave, ib.; Ivy House,
ih.; Daferons, or Saferons, t6. ; mar-
kets and fairs, 331 ; Parliamentary re-
presentation, ib. ; tbe advowson, 332 ;
rectors since 1800, 333; the parish
church, ib. ; benefactions to tbe
parish, 335 ; schools and almshouses,
ih. ; the Union House, ib.
Blick, Rev. Edward, 153
Blokesfield, manor of, 366
Blimt, Rev. Henry, ICl
BoUand, John, Esq., 332
Bond, Rev. Charles Frederick, 187
Bond, Rev. Essex Henry, 187
Bori-adaile, Rev. Robert Hudson, 383
Borradaile, Rev. William, D.D., 215
Bourke, Hon. and Rev. Geo. 'Wingfield,
262
Bowie, Jobn, Prior of Merton, 184
Bowyer family, burial-place of, 1 1
VI )K^
c u ^
386
INDEX.
Brady, Dr. Nicholas, 34
Bridges, Rev. Alexander Henry, 281
Briggs, Rev. William Tomkyns, 199
Brixton, hundred of, 1
Brixton, Christ Chnrch, 104; Trinity
Asylnm, 112 ; St. Matthew's Church,
*.; St. Jude's, 114; St. Saviour's,
ib. ; other churches, ib. ; City of Lon-
don Freemen's Orphan School, ib. ;
Convict Prison, ib. ; St. Ann's So-
ciety Schools and Asylum, ib.
Broadhams, manor of, 375
Broadley, Rev. Robert, 211
Brodrick, Sir Thomas, monument of,
216
Bromfield, Rev. George H. W., 112
Brown, Rev. Henry, 383
Bro-\vns, manor of, 367
Buchanan, Rev. Gilbert, LL.D., 272
Buckmaster, Rev. John, 215
Bullock, Rev. Richard, D.D., 161
Bunchesham, or Bensham, manor of, 235
Burdett, Sir Francis, and John Paull,
duel fought by, 228
Burton, Rev. Hezekiah, D.D., 168
Butcher, Rev. Robert Holt, LL.B., 215
Bysshe Court, maaor of, 353
Cfesar, Sir Julius, 312
CamberweU, parish of, 1 ; increase of
houses and population, 6 ; advowson,
&c.,7 ; extracts from the parish Regis-
ter, ib. ; rectors in and since 1800, 9 ;
St. Giles's Church, ib. ; its destruction
by fire, ih. ; monuments, ib. ; burial-
place of the Muschamp familj^, ib. ;
of the Scott family, 10 ; of the Bow-
yer family, 11 ; the church rebuilt,
12 ; description of the edifice, ib.;
the churchyard, 14; Free Grammar
School, ib. ; St. George's Church, 16 ;
St. George's National Schools, ib.;
Infant School and Jlission Rooms,
17; St. Philip's Church, ib. ; St.
LiTke's Church, ih. ; Christ Chuich,*.;
Roman Catholic Church, ib.; Licensed
Victuallers' Asylum, ib. ; Christ
Chiuch Schools, 18 ; St. Mary Mag-
dalene Church, ih.; Beeston's Alms-
houses, 19 ; Nunhead Cemetery, ih. ;
Camberwell Cemetery, ib.; Presby-
terian Chiu-ch, *.; Hanover Chapel,
20 ; Society of Friends' Meeting-
house, ih.; Peckliam Chapel, ib.;
Camden Chapel, ib.; Peckham House,
ib. ; Camberwell House, 21 ; Alms-
houses of the GLrdlers' Company,
ih. ; Peckham Railway Station, ib. ;
Emmanuel Church, ih. ; Bowyer
House, ib. ; Mansion-House Chapel,
22 ; British Free School, ib. ; Green-
acre, the murderer, ib. ; St. Paul's
Church, ib. ; Heme Hill, 23 ; Casino
House, ib.; Matthews, the Dul-
wich hermit, ib.; Denmark Hill,
24 ; the Fox-under-the-Hill, ib. ;
Champion Lodge, ih.; Camberwell
Grove, ib. ; Grove Hill, ib. ; Dr. J. C.
Lettsom, ib. ; Camberwell Collegiate
School, 25 ; George Barnwell, ib. ;
Grove Chapel, 26 ; Aged Pilgrims'
Asylum, ih. ; Bethel Asylum, ib. ;
Vestry Hall, ih. ; Camberwell Green,
ih. ; National and Green-coat Schools,
27 ; residence of Sir WiUiam Bowyer,
ib. ; Albany Chapel, ih. ; Friendly
Female Asylum, ih. ; Marlborough
Chapel, ih. ; Literary and Scientific
Institution, ih. ; Ladland's (or Prim-
rose) Hill, ih.
Campbell, Rev. An^lrew Rameay, 383
Cardigan, Earl of, and Captain Tuckett,
duel fought by, 228
Carew, the family of, 276
Carlisle House, Lambeth, 80
Carshalton, boundaries and acreage,
291 ; early history, ib. ; the manor,
ih. ; Carshalton Park, 293 ; Stone
Court, ih. ; Kymcrsley, 294 ; Crosse-
lands, ib. ; markets and ftxirs, ih. ;
Anne Boleyn's Well, ib. ; Carshalton
House, ib.; the Culvers, 295; the
advowson, ih. ; rectors since 1800,
ih. ; the parish church, ib. ; the
Registers, 298 ; Dissenting places of
worship, ih. ; Royal Hospital for In-
curables, ib. ; discovery of ancient
weapons, ih.
Carver, Rev. A. J., D.D., head master
of Dulwich College, 3
Castlereagh, Lord, and George Can-
ning, duel fought by, 197
Cator, Rev. Charles, 295 I
Cator, Rev. Wm. Albemarle B., 295 '
Cavendish, Hon. Henry, the discoverer
of hydrogen gas, 32
Chaldon, situation and boundaries,
255 ; stone quarries, 256 ; descent of
the manor, i6.; manor of Tolsworth,
ih. ; manor of Willey, ih. ; Stansted,
257 ; rectors of Chaldon since 1800
ih.; the parish church, ih.; acreage
and nature of soil, 258
Champion Hill, 24
Chandos, Lord, and Col. Henry Comp-
ton, duel fought by, 197
Charing Cross Bridge, 126
CharleswortJi, Rev. Samuel, 360
Chawner, Rev. Charles Fox, 333
Cheam, boundaries and nature of the
soil, 299; early history, ih.; descent
of the manor of East Cheam, 300 ;
West Cheam, 301 ; Lower Cheam, ib.;
North Cheam Park, 302 ; the bene-
fice, *.; rectors since 1800, 303; St.
Dunstan's Church, ih.; the Lumley
family, 304; St. Philip's Church,
307 ; schools, ih. ; Parochial Rooms,
308 ; WhitehaU House, ib.
Chellows, manor of, 338
Chichele, Archbishop, his improvements
of Lambeth Palace, 45
Clapham, 27 ; early history of, 28 ;
descent of the manor, ib.; Dr. John
Gauden, 30 ; death of Samuel Pepy.s,
31 ; boundaries of the parish, ih. ;
acreage, ih.; Clapham Common, 32 ;
Cavendish House, ih.; residence of
Zachary JIacaulay, 33 ; residence of
Lord Teigumouth, ib.; Clapham
Park, ih. ; advowson, ib. ; rectors, 34 ;
the old parish church, ih. ; St. Paul's
Church, 36 ; the new parish church,
37; St. John's Church,38; St.Saviour's
Church, ih. ; St. James's Chapel, ih. ;
AU Saints' Church, 39 ; St. Stephen's,
ib.; schools, 16.; British Orphan Asy-
lum, ib. ; Dissenting chapels, ih. ;
Roman Catholic Church, 40 ; local
occurrences, ih.
Clapham Junction Station, 220
Clarke, Rev. John Erskiue, 176
Claylands, Kennington, 103
Clewer, Rev. WiUiam, D.D., 242
Cobham, Lord, 364
CockereU, Charles, Esq., 332
Colborne, Nicholas Wm. Ridley, Esq..
331
Collinson, Rev. Septimus, D.D., 190
Commercial Docks, 150
Congreve, Rev John, 211
Copleston, Rev. Reginald Edward, 168
Copley, Sir Lionel, 331
CornwaUis, Archbishop, memorial of,
72
INDEX.
3R7
Coulsdon, situation and boumlaries,
259 ; nature of the soil, ih. ; ancient
remains, ib. ; manor of Whattington,
or Waddon, ib. ; Coulsdon Court,
261 ; Hooley House, 261 ; Wood
Place, ib. ; Portnall's Farm, ib. ;
Kenley House, ib.; Garston Hall, ib. ;
the rectory of Coulsdon, ib. ; rectors
since 1800, 20:2; the parish church,
ib. ; parsonage and schools, 263 ;
Eeedliam Asylum for Fatherless Chil-
dren, ib. ; Whattington Chapel, ib.
Courtney, Rev. Joliu, 266
Covelingley, manor of, 347
Crane, Sir Francis, tapestry manufactory
established by, 194
Cranmer, Rev. Richard, LL.B., 314
Crawford, Rev. Charles John, D.D., 272
Croham, manor of, 235
Cromwell, Thomas, Earl of Essex, 205
Crowhurst, boundaries, &c., 335 ;
acreage and natme of soil, 336 ;
descent of the manor, ib. ; manor of
Newlands, 337 ; manor of Chellows,
338 ; Crowhurst Place, 339 ; the
Moat House, 340 ; the advowson, ib. ;
vicars since 1800, ib. ; the parish
church, ib. ; memorials of the Gayns-
ford family, 341 ; vicarage, 342 ; an
ancient yew-tree, ib. ; benefactions
to the parish, 343
Croydon, boundaries, 229 ; extent and
nature of soil, 230 ; antiquity of, ib. ;
et)Tnology, ih.; historical events,
231 ; manor of Croydon, 232 ; Archi-
episcopal Palace, ib. ; Croydon Park,
or Park HUl, 234 ; manor of Wad-
don, ib. ; manor of Bunchcsham,
or Bensham, 235 ; manor of Cro-
ham, ib. ; manor of Halin^', ib. ;
manor of Norbury, 236; Addiscombe,
237 ; Coombe House, 238 ; Shirley
House, ib. ; the rectory, ih. ; ancient
chantries, 239 ; the parish church,
ib. ; its destruction by fire, 240 ; its
restoration, ib. ; monuments, ih. ;
Alexander Barkley, author of the
" Sliip of Fools," 241 ; vicars of
Croydon, 242 ; the \icarage, 243 ;
St. James's Church, ih. ; Holy Trinity,
ib.; St. Saviour's, ih.; St. Luke's, 16.;
St. Mary Magdalene, ib.; All Saints',
ih.; St. Peter's, ih.; St. Andrew's,
ih.; Christ Church, ib.; St. John the
Evangelist, ih. ; St. Paul's, ih. ; St.
Matthew'.", ih. ; Dissenters' meeting-
houses, iJb. ; St. Mary's Roman
Catholic Church, 244 ; Meeting-
house of the Society of Friends, ih. ;
Wliitgift's Hospital, ih. ; Archbishop
Tenison's School, 246 ; Ellis Davy's
Almshouse, ib. ; the Little Alms-
houses, 247 ; Royal Masonic Bene-
volent Institution, ib. ; Croydon
General Hospital, ih. ; benefactions
to the parish, ib. ; markets and fairs,
ih. ; population, ih. ; Town-hall, ib. ;
old market-house, 248 ; Union Work-
house, i6.; barracks, i6.; canal, i6.;
railway communication, ib. ; Literary
and Scientific Institution, 249 ;
theatre, ib. ; baths, &c., ih.
Cupel's Garden, Lambeth, 78
Curtis, Sir William, 332
Dalton, Rev. Charles Brown, 66
De Alkmuudbury, Geoffrey, Prior of
Merton, 184
De Ashe, Gilbert, Prior of Merton, 184
Do Basyng, H., Prior of Merton, 184
De Bourne, Giles, Prior of Merton, 184
De Brokesbourne, WOliam, Prior of
Merton, 184
De Chaddesley, Geoffrey, Prior of
Merton, 184
De Coetlogon, Rev. Charles Edwaid , 349
De Gilling, Ralph, liior of Merton, 184
De GlanviUe, Gilbert, Bishop of Ro-
chester, 66
De Guiffardiere, Rev. Charles, 134
De Herierd, Edmund, Prior of ilerton,
184
De Hexham, Robert, Prior of Merton,
184
De Kenton, Thomas, Prior of Merton,
184
DeLutlyngton,John,PriorofMerton,lS4
De Wyndesore, Robert, Prior of Merton,
184
Dealtry, Rev. WilUam, D.D., 34
Dee, Dr. John, philosopher and astro-
loger, 194
Delafosse, Rev. Daniel Charles, 215
Denmark Hill, 24
Devonshire, Christiana, Countess of, 198
D'Eyncourt, Rt. Hon. Charles Tenny-
son, 132
Dollond, Peter, an eminent optician,
burial-place of, 74
Donne, Dr., 312
3 D 2
Dorman's Laud, 367
Doulton, Frederick, Esq., 132
Downc, manor of, 212
D'Oyly, Rev. George, D.D., 66
Ducarel, Dr., Ill
Dulwich, the Grammar School of God's
Gift College, 1 ; reconstitution of the
foundation of the College, ib.; revenue
of the College, iA.; the educational
foundation, 2 ; the College buildings
described, ib.; new scheme for the
future administration of the endow-
ment, 3 ; the Rev. A. J. Carver, D.D.,
head master, ib. ; St. Stephen's
Church, 4 ; St. John's Church, ih. ;
chapels and schools, ib. ; Halchani
manor, ib.; St. James's Church, 6
Dunsfold, manor of, 213
East Sheen, manor of, 193
Edelman, Rev. William, 187
Eden, Hon. and Rev. Robert John, 176
Eden, Rev. Robert, 112
Edwardes, Hon. Edward Henry, 332
EUerton, Rev. John, 169
EUiston, the comedian, burial-place of,
123
Erck, Rev. John Cuillurd, 187
Eustachius, Prior of Merton, 184
Ewart, William, Esq., 332
Fai'rer, Rev. Matthew Thomas, 255
Featley, Daniel, Rector of Lambeth, 07
Felcourt, manor of, 363
Female Orphan Asylum, 87, 287
Ferrers, Rev. John Bromfield, 281
Fisher, Rev. Edmund Henry, 103
Fisher, Rev. Harry Charriugton, 257
FLxsen, Rev. John Frederick, 187
Flack, Rev. George Sutton, 211
Flore, 346
Ford, manor of, 300
Foyle, manor of, 375
Freeston, William, Prior of Merton, 184
Fry, Rev. James, 309
Fuller, Rev. Robert Fitzherbert, 340, 369
Furneaux, Dr. Philip, 40
Gardener, Rev. Charles, D.D., 321
Gardner, Rev. John, 176
Garrett, the hamlet of, 218
Garston, the manor of, 327
Gataker, Rev. Charles, 153
Gataker, Rev. Thomas, B.D., 153
Gauden, Dr. Jolui, 30
388
Gibbon, Edward, the historian, 206
Gibson, Dr. Edmund, Eector of Lam-
beth, 68
GHdable, 367
Giles, Rev. John Allen, 321
Gilpin, Rev. WilHam, 308
Gisburne, John, Prior of Merton, 184
Godstone, boundaries and nature of
the soil, 343 ; the village, ib. ; bar-
rows, or tumuli, 344 ; remains of an
ancient fortification, ib. ; mineral
spring, ib. ; descent of the manor,
345 ; Flore, or Flower, 346 ; manor
of Norbrith, 347 ; manors of Hedge
Court and Covelingley,iJ.; Fel bridge
House, ib. ; St. John's Church, 348 ;
Harden Park, ib. ; Leigh (or Lee) Place,
ib.; Tilburstow Lodge, ib. ; advow-
son, ib. ; ^dcars since 1800, 349 ; St.
Nicholas Church, ib. ; monuments of
the Evelyn family, ib. ; the vicarage-
house, 351 ; benefactions to the parish,
ib. ; schools, 352 ; Blindley Heath
Chiirch, ib.
Gomm, Sir William, 156
Goodricke, Rev. Henry, B.D., 262
Greaves, Rev. Richard WUson, 211
Gregory, Nicholas, Prior of Merton, 184
Gregory, Rev. Robert, 112
Gresham, Sir John, 375
Grinday, Rev. John, LL.D., 355
Grove Hill, Camberwell, 24
Hacket, Dr. John, Rector of Cheam, 303
Haling, manor of, 235
Hamilton, Rev. Charles Hans, 355
Hamilton, Rev. James, 281
Hammersmith Su.spension Bridge, 170
Hardyknute, death of, 41
Hare, Rev. Francis, D.D., 168
Harrison, Rev. Lawrence John, 191
Harwardesley, 354
Hatch, Rev. Giles, 321
Hatch, Rev. Henry, 321
Hatcham, manor of, 4
Hawes, Benjamin, Esq., 132
Haygarth, Rev. Henry William, 224
Heath, Lord Chief Justice, 358
Heathcote, Thomas, Esq., 332
Hedge Coiu-t, manor of, 347
Henley, Hon. and Rev. Robert, 199
Henry, Bishop of Joppa, 66
Heme Hill, 22
Herring, Thomas, D.D., 332
Hewett, Rev. John Short, 153
Hill, Rev. Herbert, 161
Hoadly, Dr. Benjamin, 161
Hoare, Rev. George Tooker, 349
Hoare, Veu. Charles James, 349
Hobhouse, Benjamin, Esq., 331
Hodgson, Rev. John George, 242
Hookwood, 358
Hooper, Dr. George, Rector of Lambeth,
Home, situation, boundaries, &c., 352 ;
nature of the soil, ib. ; descent of the
manor, 353 ; manor of Bysslie Court,
ib. ; Home Park, 354 ; Hai'wardesley,
ib. ; rectors of Home since 1800, 355 ;
the parish church, ib. ; monuments to
the Hope family, 356 ; schools, 357
Home, Sir William, 332
Hughes, Rev. Thomas, 199
Hughes, Thomas, Esq., 132
Hume, Rev. .John, D.D., 169
Hungerford and Lambeth Suspension
Bridge, 126
Hutton, Archbishop, memorial of, 72
Hutton, Rev. Thomas Pabner, 369
Ireland, Rev. John, D.D., 242
James, Rev. Edward, 190
Jeffreys, Rev. John, 168
Jenkinson, Rev. James S., 176
Jones, Rev. Edward Rhys, 360
Kennington, manor of, 97 ; mummeries
and state pageants, 98 ; the manor
settled on Henry, Prince of Wales, by
James I., 99 ; the old manor-house,
ib. ; Kennington Palace, 100 ; Vaux-
haU Chapel, ii. ; St. Peter's Church,
ib.; Carlisle Congregational Chapel,
ib. ; South London Water Works, ib. ;
Licensed Victuallers' School, ib. ;
Vestry HaU, 101 ; Verulam Chapel,
ib. ; St. Philip's Church, ib. ; Ken-
nington Park, ib. ; the Horns Tavern,
102 ; St. Mark's Church, ib. ; St.
Mark's Schools, 103 ; the Church of
St. John the Divine, ib. ; St. James's
Church, ib.; the Church of St. Agnes,
ib. ; Clay lands, ib. ; Cojaped or Copt
Hall, 104 ; Parochial Schools, ib. ;
Cluist Church, Brixton, ib.; the Hol-
land estate, 105
Kenrick, Rev. Jarvis, 333
I Kenrick, Rev. Matthew, LL.D., 333
I Kenrick, William, Esq., 332
Kent, William, Prior of Merton, 184
Kentwaynes, 330
Kingston, John, Prior of Merton, 184
Knight's HiU, Streatham, 160
Knollys, Rev. Erskine William, 255
K3Tnpton, Michael, Prior of Merton,
184
Lacy, John, Prior of Merton, 184
Lamb, Right Hon. William, 332
Lambeth, 41 ; its etymology, ih. ;
boundaries and subdivisions, ib. ;
nature of the soil, ib. ; early liistory,
ib. ; notice of, in Doomsday Book,
42 ; manor of, ib. ; grant of a market
and fair, 43 ; the manor held by the
Archbishops of Canterbury, 44 ; the
Archiepiscopal Palace, ib. ; earliest
Register, 45 ; Wat Tyler's insurrec-
tion, ib. ; Archbishop Chichele's im-
provements of the palace, ib. ; Car-
dinal Morton's repairs and renova-
tions, ib. ; Archbishop Laud repairs
the windows, ib. ; other repairs and
embellishments, 46 ; Col. Thomas
Scot's depredation in the palace, ib. ;
the gatehouse, 47 ; the library, 48 ;
rare and curious books, 51 ; cata-
logues, 52 ; manuscripts, 53 ; libra-
rians, 56 ; the Lollards' Tower, 57 ;
the post-room, ib. ; the chapel, 58 ;
desecration of Archbishop Parker's
tomb, 59 ; the crypt, 60 ; the quad-
rangle, ib. ; the private liljrary and
sitting-room, ib. ; the great dining-
room, ib. ; list of portraits, 62 ; the
picture gallery, ib. ; important events
enacted at Lambeth Palace, 64 ; the
Pan- Anglican Synod, 65 ; Arch-
bishops who have died at Lambeth
Palace, ib. ; rectory and advowson of
Lambeth, 66 ; rectors since 1800, ib. ;
the parish church, 69 ; Pedlar's Acre,
70 ; tombs and monuments, 71 ; the
Howard Chapel, 73 ; the Leigh
Chapel, 74 ; burial-place of EUas
Ashmole, ih. ; burial-place of Peter
DoUond, ib. ; tomb of the Trades-
cants, ib. ; Tradescant's museum, 75 ;
altars in the old parish church, 76 ;
the Guild of St. Christopher, ib. ; the
" boy-bishop," ib.; extracts from the
parish Register, ib.; residence of
Arthur Moore, original author of
" Moore's Almanack," 77 ; Norfolk
^-0' ^' -^A- ^
K rL. G-^
INDEX.
389
House, 77 ; Cuper's Garden, 78 ;
Carlisle House, 80 ; Astley's Amphi-
theatre, 81 ; Westminster Bridge,
84; St. Thomas's Hospitiil, 85;
Asylum for Female Orphans, 87 ;
Christ Church, Westminster Bridge
Eoad, *. ; Hawkstone Hall, 88 ; St.
Thomas's Church, ib.; the Canter-
bury Hall, ib. ; the Bower Saloon,
ib. ; manor of Faukes-hall, or Vaux-
hall, ib. ; Vauxhall Gardens, 89 ;
Lambeth School of Art, 9G ; Vaux-
hall Bridge, ib.; manor of Kenning-
ton, 97; manor of Stockwell, or
South Lambeth, 105 ; the Angell
estate, 107 ; Stockwell Green, 108 ;
the Stockwell ghost, ib. ; eminent
residents in South Lambeth, 110 ;
St. Stephen's Church, 111 ; AH
Saints' Church, ib. ; St. Ann's Church,
112; St. Mary the Less, ib. ; Lam-
beth Workhouse, ib.; Trinity Asylum,
ib. ; St. Matthew's Church, Brixton,
ib.; St. Jude's, 114; St. Saviour's,
ib.; St. Paul's, ib.; St. Catherine's,
ib.; St. John's, ib.; Holy Trinity,
ib. ; City of London Freemen's Or-
phan School, ib.; Convict Prison, ib.;
St. Ann's Society Schools and Asylum,
*.; St. Paul's Church, 115 ; Brock-
well Hall, ib. ; St. Luke's District,
Norwood, ib. ; Lambeth Water
Works, 118 ; Industrial Institution
for the Infant Poor of Lambeth, 121 ;
St. John's District, AVaterloo Road,
ib. ; boundaries of the district, ib.;
former condition of the locality, ib. ;
St. John's Church, 122 ; bm-ial-place
of Elliston, the comedian, 123 ; Na-
tional Schools, ib.; the Old Half-
penny Hatch, ib. ; Zion Chapel, ib. ;
New Jerusalem Temple, ib. ; South-
western Railway, ib. ; Royal Universal
Infirmary for Cliildren and Women,
ib, ; Waterloo Bridge, 124 ; Hungerford
and Lambeth Suspension Bridge, 126 ;
its removal to Clifton, Bristol, ib. ;
Chariiig Cross Railway Bridge, ib. ;
Lambeth Water Works, 127 ; Narrow
Wall, ib. ; Belvidere House and Gar-
dens, ib. ; manufactory of artificial
stone, or teiTa-cotta, 128 ; Stamford
Street Unitarian Chapel, ib. ; Schools
of the Benevolent Society of St. Pa-
trick, ib.; General Lying-in Hospital,
ib.; York Road Congregational
Chapel, 129 ; AH Saints' Churdi, ib.;
National and Infiuit Schools, 130 ;
Bishop Bonner's house, ib. ; Royal
Cobourg, now the Victoria, Theatre,
ib.; apprehension of Colonel Despard
and others for high treason, 131 ; tlie
Temple of Flora, ib. ; Apollo Gardens,
ib. ; Lambeth WeUs, ib. ; Parlia-
mentary representation of Lambeth,
132
Lancaster, Rev. Thomas, 187
Lane, Rev. Charlton, 103, 112
Laud, Archbishop, repairs the windows
of Lambeth Palace, 45
Lawrence, Sir James Clarke, 132
Leake, Admiral Sir John, 154
Lee Boo, Prince, tomb of, 154
Legrew, Rev. James, 257
Leigham's Court, manor of, 159
Leng, Rev. John, D.D., 281
Lettsom, Dr. John Coakley, 24
Leveson-Gower, Rt. Hon. Lord Francis,
332
Limpsfield, situation, boundaries, and
soil, 357 ; descent of the manor, ib. ;
Hookwood, 358 ; Tenchleys, ib.;
Stockenden, or Storkenden, 359 ;
Trevereux, ib. ; the Bower, ib. ;
Detillens, *.; New Hall, ib. ; the
benefice, ib. ; rectors since 1800, ib. ;
the parish church, 360 ; the Registers,
361 ; schools, ib.
Lindsay, Rev. Henry, 224, 242
Lingfield, situation, 361 ; boundaries
and soU, 362 ; commons, ib. ; St.
Peter's Cross, ib. ; Chapel Field, ib. ;
fairs, ib. ; discontinuance of old cus-
toms, ib. ; descent of the manor, 363 ;
manor of Felcourt, ib. ; manor of
Starborough, ib. ; manor of Padinden,
365 ; manor of Blokesfield, or Shovel-
strode, 366 ; manor of Ford, or La
Ford, ib. ; New Place, ib.; manor of
Browns, 367 ; manor of Shefiield,
ib. ; manor of Billeshurst, ib. ; Gild-
able, ib. ; Apsleytown, ib. ; Dorman's
Laud, ib. ; seats in the parish, ib. ;
Lingfield College, 368 ; the benefice
of Lingfield, 369 ; curates and vicars
since 1800, ib. ; the parish churcli,
ib. ; the vicarage, 373 ; the RegLsters,
ib. ; donations to the parish, ib. ;
schools, 374
Lingham, Rev. John Feuliman, 06
Lister, Dr., 36
Lloyd, Rev. Henry Robert, 103
Lockwood, Rev. John Cutis, 242, 262
LondondeiTy, Marquis of, and Henry
Grattan, duel fought by, 228
Long, Rev. C. Maitland, 272
Lowman, Rev. Moses, 40
Lumley family, the, 304
M' Arthur, William, Esq., 132
Macaulay, Zachary, residence of, 33
M'Kinstrey, Rev. William, 340, 369
Maclagan, Rev. William Dalrymple,
134
Mauley, Rev. John T., 191
Mapleton, Rev. James Henry, LL.B.,
314
Marsden, Rev. John Buxton, 211
Marsh, Rev. William, D.D., 281
Master, Rev. Lcgh Hoskins, 359
Matthews, the Dulwich hermit, 23
Maule, Rev. Thomas Carteret, 303
Mayne, Rev. Robert, 359
Meakin, Rev. James, 199
Medd, Rev. Peter Goldsmith, 169
MelvUl, Rev. Henry, B.D., 169
Merton, derivation of name, 181 ; early
history, ib. ; description of manor in
Doomsday Book, 182 ; descent of the
manor, ih. ; the priory, 183 ; chro-
nicles of Merton Abbey, 184 ; char-
ters, ih. ; Priors of Merton, ib. ; ar-
morial bearings of the priory, 185 ;
possessions of the priory, ib. ; Messrs.
Littlers woollen printing works, 186 ;
rectory and advowson, ib. ; incum-
bents since 1799, 187 ; St. Mary'a
Church, ib. ; National Schools, 188 ;
Merton Place, or Grove, ib. ; Lord
Nelson and Lady Hamilton, ib.
Mills, Robert Williara, Esq., 332
Milnes, James, Esq., 331
Mitcham, boundaries and nature of the
soil, 309 ; description of manor in
Doomsday Book, I'i.; manorof Michel-
ham and Witford, 310 ; manor of
Biggin and Tamworth, 311 ; manorof
Ravensbury, ib. ; Figge's Marsh, 312 ;
residents of distinction, ib. ; Mitcham
Grove, 313 ; an ancient house, ib. ; the
benefice, ib. ; the Registers, ib. ; vicars
since 1800, 314; the parish chiirch,
ih. ; Christ Church, 315 ; benefactions
to tlie pari.sli, 316 ; workhouse and
schools, ib. ; almshouses, ib.
390
INDEX.
" Moore's Almanack," residence of the
original autlior of, 77
Mordon, or Morden, boundaries and
nature of the soil, 316 ; descent of the
manor, 317 ; the Spital, ib. ; Mordon
Park, 318; advowson, ib. ; rectors
since 1800, i6.; the parish church, i6.;
benefactions to the parish, 319 ; the
Free School, ib. ; Sunday school,
320 ; the poor-house, ib.
Mortlake, boundaries and soil, 188 ;
early history of the manor, 189 ; de-
scent of the manor, 190 ; the living,
ib. ; parish Registers, ib. ; perpetual
curates, ib.; the parish chuixh, 191 ;
Henry Addington, Viscount Sid-
mouth, ib. ; Sir John Barnard, phi-
lanthropist, 192 ; John Barber, a dis-
tinguished patriot, ib. ; Christ Church,
193 ; National and Board Schools, ib.;
charities, ib. ; Cromwell House, ib. ;
manor of East Sheen and AVest HaU,
ib. ; right of way through Richmond
Park, ib. ; White Lodge, residence of
the Prince of Teck, 194 ; establish-
ment of a tapestry manufactory, ib. ;
Sir Francis Crane, ib. ; Dr. John Dee,
ib. ; John Partridge, astrologer, 195
Morton, Cardinal, his repairs and reno-
vations of Lambetli Palace, 45
Mountain, Dr. George, Rector of Cheam,
303
Muschamp familj-, burial-place of, 9
Myddleton, Rev. Robert, D.D., 153
Myers, Rev. Streynsham Derbyshire,
314
Nelson, Lord, residence of, at Slerton,
188
Newington, or Newington Butts, 132 ;
boundaries of the parish, ib. ; its ety-
mology, 133 ; the manor of Walworth,
ib. ; the advowson, 134 ; rectors of
Newington since 1800, ib. ; the old
Church of St. Mary's, ib. ; its demoli-
tion, ib. ; the new church, 135 ; St.
Gabriel's, ib. ; monuments in the old
chiirch, ih. ; the churchyard, 136 ;
extracts from the parish Register, ib. ;
the old parsonage-house, ib. ; the new
rectory, ib. ; United National Charity
and Sunday Schools, ib. ; Board
Schools, 137 ; remains of Cnut's
trench, ib. ; Drapers' Almshouses,
ib. ; Fishmongers' Almshouses, ib. ;
the Metropolitan Tabernacle, ib. ;
Horsemonger Lane Gaol and Surrey
Sessions House, ib. ; singular dona-
tion for debtors, 138 ; the White Lion
Prison, ib. ; Trinity Church, ib. ; AU
Saints' Church, 139 ; St. Andrew's,
*. ; St. Gabriel's, ib. ; St. Matthew's,
*.; St. Peter's, ib.; All Souls', 140 ; St.
John's, ib. ; St. Mark's, ib. ; St. Paul's,
ib. ; St. Stephen's, ib. ; Lock's Fields,
ib. ; the Surrey Gardens, ib. ; tempo-
rary use of music hall for St. Thomas's
Hospital, 141 ; serious accident, ib.
Newlands, manor of, 337, 381
Newman, Robert William, Esq., 332
NichoU, Rev. John Richard, 161
Norbrith, 347
Norbury, manor of, 236
Norfolk House, Lambeth, 77
Northall, manor of, 380
Norwood, St. Luke's district, 115 ;
Vicar's Oak, 116 ; Gipsy House, ib. ;
Westow HiH, 117 ; Crystal Palace,
ib. ; Ro}'al Normal College and
Academy of Music for the Blind,
118 ; Roman Catholic Orphanage of
Our Lady, *. ; North Suixey District
School, ib. ; All Saints' Chvuch, ib. ;
St. Paul's Church, 119 ; Christ
Church, ib. ; St. John the Evangelist's,
ib.; St. Mark's, *.; Holy Trinity,
ib. ; St. Luke's Church, ib. ; Norwood
Cemetery, ib. ; Jews' Hospital, 120;
Jewish Convalescent Home, ib. ;
School of the Westmoreland Society,
ib. ; St. Saviour's Almshouse, ib. ;
schools, &c., 121 ; Indu.strial Institu-
tion for the Infant Poor of Lambeth,i6.
Nunhead Cemetery, 19
Ommanney, Rev. Edward Aislabie, 191
Onslow, Rev. Ai-thur Cyril, 134
Otter, Rev. William, 103
Owen, Rev. Edward, 190
Oxted, or Oxtead, situation, boundaries,
and soil, 374; Barrow Green, ib. ;
descent of the manor, ib. ; manor of
Birstead, 375 ; manor of Broadhams,
ib. ; manor of Foyle, ib. ; Sir John
Gresham, *. ; manor of Stoketts, 376 ;
Stone Hall, ib. ; the rectory, ib. ;
rectors since 1800, ib. ; the parish
church, 377 ; monuments to the Hos-
kins family, ib. ; Registers, 378 ; bene-
factions to the poor, 379
Padindeu, manor of, 365
Palmer, Rev. George Thomas, 134
Palmerston, Viscount, 332
Parker, Archbishop, desecration of his
tomb, 59 ; Queen Elizabeth's indig-
nation at his breach of celibacy, ib. ;
entertains Queen Elizabeth at Croy-
don, 233
Parnell, Rev. Frank, 37C
Partridge, John, astrologer, 195
Payne, George, and Mr. Clark, duel
fought by, 228
Peach, Rev. Henry, 303
Pearson, Charles, Esq., 132
Peckham, 20
Peers, Rev. John Witherington, D.C.L.,
318
Pemberton, Rev. Edwai-d Robert,
D.C.L., 215
PendeU, 329
Penge, its schools and public institu-
tions, 180
Pepys, Samuel, death of, 31
Pestalozzi, Henry, 309
Phillips, Rev. Roland, D.D., 242
Picart, Rev. Samuel, 134
Pitt, William, and George Tierney, duel
fought by, 197
Playfere, Thomas, Rector of Cheam, 303
Plumptre, Rev. Henry Scawen, 112
Ponsonby, Hon. John George Brabazon,
332
Pope, Rev. Stephen, 112
Porcher, Josias Dupr^, Esq., 332
Porteus, Dr. BeUby, Rector of Lambeth,
68
Porye, John, Rector of Lambeth, 67
Poynder, Rev. Hemy, 355
Poynder, Rev. WlUiam, 355
Prichard, Rev. James Cowles, 314
Purley, 265
Putney, boundaries and soU, 195 ;
early history, ib. ; royal fishes, ib. ;
the bridge, 196 ; the lire-proof house,
ib. ; Putney Heath, 197 ; famous
duels fought here, ib. ; Putney made
the head-qviarters of Fairfax and
Cromwell during the civil wars, ib. ;
Putney Park, 198 ; advowson, 199 ;
extracts from the parish Register, ib. !
perpetual cm-ates, ib.; St. Mary's
Church, ib. ; St. John's Church, 201 ;
AU. Saints', ib. ; almshouses, ib. ;
College of Civil Engineers, ib. ; Lime
Grove, 202 ; BowUng-Green House,
INDEX.
39'
?i. ; Chelsea Water "Works reservoir,
i6. ; the University boat race, 203 ;
Royal Hospital for Incurables, ti. ;
Roehampton, ih. ; eminent natives
and former residents of Putney, 205 ;
Nicholas West, Bishop of Ely, ib. ;
Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, ib. ;
Edward Gibbon, the historian, 206;
Robert Wood, author of the " Ruins
of Palmyra," 207 ; John Toland, a
deistieal writer, ib.
Pyne, Rev. W. Master, 376
Ramsay, John, Prior of Merton, 184
Randolph, Rev. George, 262
Randolph, Rev. Herbert, B.D., 224
Randolph, Rev. John, 266
Randolph, Rev. John H., 266
RavenhUl, Rev. John, 211
Ravensbury, manor of, 311
Reeves, Rev. Fred. John Hawkes, 191
Rice, Rev. Charles Hobbes, 303
Richard, Prior of Merton, 184
Robert, Prior of Merton, 184
Roberts, Rev. Alfred, 272
Robinson, Rev. Cliristopher Thomas,
199
Roehampton, 203 ; Roehampton House,
ih. ; Moimt Clare, 204 ; Bessborougli
House, ib.; Devonshire House, ih.; the
Rookery, ib.; a violent whirlwind, ih.
Romeney, John, Prior of Merton, 184
Rooksnest, 381
Rose, Rev. William, 225
Rotherhithe, etymology of, 141 ; boun-
daries, ib. ; early history of, 142 ;
descent of the manor, ib. ; Thames
Tunnel, 146 ; Commercial Docks, 150 ;
Grand Surrey Canal, 152 ; advowsou
of Rotherithe, ib.; the parish Regis-
ters, ih. ; rectors since 1800, 153 ; St.
Mary's Church, ib.; tomb of Prince
Lee Boo, 154 ; Admiral Sir John
Leake, ib. ; Trinity Church, 155 ;
All Saints' Church, ih.; Christ
Church, ib. ; birthplace of Admiral
Benbow, ib. ; Sir WiUiam Gomni,
156 ; St. Paul's Chapel-of-Ease, ih. ;
St. Barnabas Church, ih.; schools,
ib. ; Southwark Park, ib.
RoupeU, William, 132
Royal Victoria Patriotic Asylum, 220
Russell, Matthew, Esq., 332
Russell, Rev. Lord Wriothesley, 161
Russell, William, Esq., 332
St. John, Rev. Henry St. Andrew, 199
St. John, Rev. John Fleming, 199
St. John, Rev. John Francis S. Fleming,
199
St. John, Viscount, the family of, 173
St. Thomas's Hospital, Lambeth, 85
Salyng, William, Prior of Merton, 184
Sandby, Rev. George, 9
Sanderstead, boundaries and nature of
the sou, 263 ; descent of the manor,
264 ; Purley, 265 ; Puriey House,
266 ; Sanderstead House, ib. ; rectors
since 1800, ih. ; parish cliurch, ih.;
monuments, 267 ; a remarkable yew-
tree, 268 ; parsonage and schools, ib. ;
Christ Church, ib. ; Selsdon, ib.
Scawen, Sii' William, 293
Schirfeld, Thomas, Prior of Merion, 184
Scot, Col. Thomas, depredations com-
mitted by, at Lambeth Palace, 46
Scott family, burial-place of, 10
Selsdon, 268
Senhouse,Dr. Richard, Rector of Chcani,
303
Sheffield, manor of, 367
Shepherd, Rev. Henry, 257
Shirley, 255
Shovelstrode, manor of, 366
Shutte, Rev. Albert Shadwell, 191
Sidmouth, Viscount, 191
Slake, Nicholas, Rector of Lambeth, 66
Smijth, Rov. Edward Bowyer, 9
Smith, Alderman, monument of, 216
Sneyd, Rev. WetenhaU, 333
South London Water Works, 100
Soutliwark Park, 156
Spear, Rev. James, 153
Stagbury, 271
Stangrave, 330
Stausted, 257
Starborough, manor of, 363
Stein, John, Esq., 331
Stephen, Prior of Merton, 184
Stephens, William, Rector of Sutton, 322
Stewart, Rev. David Dale, 262
Stewart, Rev. James Haldane, 340, 360
Stockenden, or Storkendeii, 359
Stockwell, manor of, 105 ; John An-
geU's bequest, 107 ; Stockwell Green,
108 ; the Stockwell ghost, ib. ; St.
Andrew's Church, 109 ; St. Michael's
Clmrch, ih. ; Small-pox Hospital,
110 ; Fever Hospital, *. ; Stockwell
Orphanage, ib. ; Dunsford Lodge, ib.
Stoketts, manor of, 376
Storie, Rev. John George, 9
Strcathani, etymology, 157 ; bounda-
ries, ib. ; natuie of soil, ib. ; medicinal
spring, ib. ; historical records of, ib. ;
manor of Tooting-Bec, or Tooting-
Beck, 158 ; manor of Leigham's
Court, 159 ; Knight's Hill, 160 ;
Lord Thurlow's residence, ib. ; ad-
vowson of Slreatham, 161 ; rectors
since 1800, ih. ; St. Leonard's Church,
ih.; Christ Church, 162 ; the Church
of Immauuel, ib. ; St. Stephen's, ib. ;
tlic village of Streatham, ih.; alms-
houses, 163 ; charitable donations,
ib. ; St. Leonard's National Schools,
ib.; Magdalen Hospital, ih. ; Streat-
ham Park, ib. ; Mrs. Thrale and Dr.
Johnson, ?7a; nianorof Balliam,i4.; St.
Mary'sChurch, 164 ; Bedford House, i6.
Surrey Canal, l.")2
Surrey Lunatic Asylum, 219
Surrey Zoological Gardens, 140
Sutton, boundaries and nature of soil,
320 ; Sutton Common, ib. ; descent
of the manor, ih. ; the advowson, 321 ;
rectors since 1800, ib. ; the parish
cluirch, ib. ; Benhilton, 323 ; bene-
factions to the parish, ih.
Swinny, Rev. Henry Hutcliinson, 191
Talbot, Sir Charies, 332
Taudridge, hundred of, 324
Tandridge, boundaries and soU, 379 ;
descent of the manor, ib. ; Tandridge
Court, 380 ; manor of Northall, ih. ;
Tillingdon, ib. ; manor of Newlands,
381; Tandridge Hall, ib. ; Rooks-
neat, ib. ; the priory of Tandridge,
382 ; the advowson, ih.; curates and
vicars since 1800, 383 ; the parish
church, ib. ; donations to the parish,
384 ; schools, ih.
Teignmouth, Lord, residence of, 33
Tenchleys, 358
Tenison, Archbishop, memorial of, 72
Tennyson, George, Esq., 332
Tennyson, Right Hon. Charles, 132,332
Thames Tunnel, 146
Thirlby, Thomas, 72
Thomas, Rev. James, 3G9
Thomas, Rev. John, D.D., 333
Thornton, Rev. William AVheeler, 355
Thoi-p, Rev. Thomas, 376
Thrale, Mrs., her residence at Streat-
ham, 163
39^
INDEX.
Thuilow, Lord, his residence at Streat-
ham, 160
Tichfleld, Marquis of, 332
TilHngdon, 380
Todd, Eev. Henry James, 255
Todd, Rev. Henry John, 262
Toland, John, a deistical writer, 207
Tolsworth, manor of, 256
Tooting, or Lower Tooting, boundaries
and soil, 208 ; early history and de-
scent of manor, *. ; advowson, 210 ;
St. Nicholas Church, *.; rectors,
211; artesian well, ih.; Lamheth
Cemetery, ih. ; National Schools, ih. ;
HiU House, ih.; meeting-house for
Independents, ih.
Tooting-Bec, manor of, 158 I
Townsend, Rev. Richard Lateward, 215
Tradescants, burial-place of the, 74 ;
museum, 75
Trevereux, 359
Tritton, Eev. Robert, 318
Tufnell, Rev. Edward Wyndham, D.D.,
242
Timstall, Cuthbert, 71
Tyrrell, James, 15
University boat race, 203
Vauxhall Bridge, 96
Vauxhall Gardens, 89 ; firework illu-
minations and balloon ascents, 95 ;
sale and demolition of the gardens,
96
Venn, Rev. John, 34
Vernon, Rev. William Hardy, 295
Vicar's Oak, 41, 116
Victoria Patriotic Asylum, Royal, 220
Villiers, Thomas Hyde, Esq., 332
Vyse, Rev. WiUiam, LL.D., 66
Waddon, manor of, 234
WaUington, 229, 278, 289
Walpole, Rev. Thomas, 360
Walsh, John Benn, Esq., 331
Walter, Prior of Merton, 184
Walworth Common, 140
Walworth, manor of, 133
Wandsworth, etymology, 211 ; boun-
daries and soil, 212 ; Doomsday ac-
count of manor, ih. ; manor of Batter-
sea and Wandsworth, ih. ; manor of
Downe, ih. ; manor of Dunsfold,
213 ; manor of Alfartliing, i6. ; ad-
vowson, 214 ; extracts from the parish
Register, ih.; vicars since 1800, 215 ;
All Saints' Church, ih. ; execution of
Griffith Clarke, Vicar of Wandsworth,
ih. ; monuments in the parish church,
216 ; St. Anne's Church, 217 ; St.
Mary's, *. ; St. Paul's, ih.; Holy
Trinity, ti. ; St. Thomas of Canter-
bury, ih. ; the village, ih. ; the County
Prison, ih. ; the bridge, ih. ; the
" Frying-pan houses," 218 ; thehamlet
of Garrett, ih. ; the " Mayor of Garrett,"
tJ. ; national and other schools, ■ih. ;
Melrose Hall, now the Royal Hos-
pital for Incurables, ih.; St. Peter's
Hospital, 219 ; Friendless Boys'
Home, ih. ; Surrey Industrial School,
ih. ; Wandsworth Bridge, ih. ; Surrey
Lunatic Asylum, ih. ; Royal Victoria
Patriotic Asylum, 220 ; Mulberry
Cottage, ih. ; Clapham Junction Sta-
tion, ih.
Warner, Rev. Ferclinando, LL.D., 169
Waterloo Bridge, 124
Waters, Eev. John, LL.B., 383
Watson, Anthony, Rector of Cheam, 302
Wat Tyler's attack on Lambeth Palace,
45
Walton, Rev. Robert, 257
Welton, Eev. Thomas, 257
West, Nicholas, Bishop of Ely, 205
Westminster Bridge, 84
Wharton, Eev. Henry James, 314
Whattington, or Waddon, manor of,
259
Wheelwright, Eev. George, 340
Whitgift's Hospital, Croydon, 244
Wigsell, Rev. Atwood WigseU, 266
Wilkes's riots, 136
Wilkinson, WiUiam Arthur, Esq., 132
WiUey, manor of, 256
WiUiam, Prior of Merton, 184
WiUiams, Eev. James, 9
WilUams, WUUam, Esq., 132
Wilson, Eev. Christopher, D.D., 169
WUaon, Rev. Daniel Frederic, 314
Wimbledon, boundaries and nature of
the soil, 220 ; artesian weU, ih. ; de-
rivation of name, ih. ; early histor;',
221 ; Sir Thomas Cecil, afterwards
Earl of Exeter, ih. ; Edward Cecil,
Baron of Putney and Wimbledon, ih. ;
description of the manor-house, 222 ;
Queen Victoria entertained at Wim-
bledon Park House, 223 ; advowson,
224; vicars of Wimbledon since 1800,
ih. ; St. Mary's Church, ih. ; Christ
Church, 226 ; Holy Trinity Church,
ih. ; Atkinson Morley Convalescent
Hospital, ih. ; ancient entrenchment
on Wimbledon Common, ih. ; Wim-
bledon House, 227 ; ancient barrows
on Wimbledon Common, ih. ; duel
between the Duke of York and
Colonel Lennox, 228 ; duel between
Sir Francis Burdett and John Paull,
ih. ; duel between George Pajme and
Mr. Clark, ih. ; duel between the
Marquis of Londonderry and Henry
Grattan, ih.; duel bet\\'een the Earl
of Cardigan and Capt. Harvey Tuck-
ett, ih. ; National Rifle Association
contests, ih.
Wing, Eev. John, 161
AVingfield, Rev. John, D.D., 199
Winlaw, Rev. WiUiam, 318
Witford, manor of, 310
AVUst, Thomas, Prior of Merton, 184
Wood, Robert, author of the " Ruins of
Palmj-ra," 207
Wood, Eev. WilUam, B.D., 262
Woodmansterne, boundaries, &c., 269 ;
descent of the manor, 270 ; Stagbury,
271 ; the advowson, 272 ; rectors
since 1800, ih. ; the pari.'sh church,
ih. ; the Oaks, ih.
Wordsworth, Rev. Christopher, D.D.
66
Wyche, Henry, Rector of Sutton, 322
Wynter, Sir Edward, monument of, 177
Vork, Duke of, and Col. Lennox, duel
fought by, 228
END OF VOL. III.
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